Island Overviews, and Cultural / Historical Sites and Attractions Of the Eight Main Hawaiian Islands and the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands
Introduction Historic Periods of the Hawaiian Islands Nā Mō‘ī Hawai‘i: The Hawaiian Monarchy The Eight Rulers of the United Hawaiian Kingdom Kuhina Nui Premiers, or Regents, Sharing Power with King Hawai‘i’s Major Political Periods Governors of the Territory of Hawai‘i Appointed by U.S. President Territorial Delegates to Congress Governors and Lieutenant Governors of the State of Hawai‘i The State of Hawai‘i—The Aloha State The Hawaiian Islands O‘ahu—The Gathering Place Kaua‘i—The Garden Isle Ni‘ihau—The Forbidden Isle Moloka‘i—The Friendly Isle Lāna‘i—The Private Isle Maui—The Valley Isle Hawai‘i Island (The Big Island)—The Orchid Isle Kaho‘olawe Northwestern Hawaiian Islands This Hawaiian Encyclopedia covers the major events of Hawaiian history from ancient times through the pre-contact era and up to the present day, including a rich tapestry of stories and events woven by many different cultures from around the globe. The history of the Hawaiian Islands began many millions of years ago nearly 20,000 feet beneath the ocean’s surface as magma from deep in the Earth erupted onto the Pacific seafloor to form an undersea volcano. For thousands of centuries the volcano grew until finally, amidst the steam and ash and molten rock, it rose above the sea and an island was born. Even as the island grew it was being slowly pulled northwest by the movement of a giant piece of the Earth’s crust known as a tectonic plate, the great Pacific Plate. The stationary plume of lava continued to erupt as the Pacific Plate moved northwest, making way for a new volcanic island to form, and then another and another, each in turn emerging from the sea to form the chain known as the Hawaiian Islands. Weathered by wind and rain for thousands of centuries, the rocky surfaces of the isolated volcanic islands gradually turned to soil and allowed plant species to take hold. Eventually the islands supported a great variety of life from the shores to the mountain peaks. The human side of Hawai‘i’s story began with the Polynesians, a race whose roots extend back to some 6,000 years ago when ambitious sailors in voyaging canoes ventured farther and farther out from the Southeast Asian continent to inhabit hundreds of Pacific islands. More than 1,000 years ago the seafaring voyagers discovered the Hawaiian Islands, the most remote archipelago on Earth. Ua lehulehu a manomano ka ‘ikena a ka Hawai‘i. Great and numerous is the knowledge of the Hawaiians.**[1]** By the time British Captain James Cook established Western contact in 1778, the Hawaiians had developed an amazingly rich and complex Pacific island culture unlike any other, with a population of more than a quarter of a million people, possible more than twice that number (Captain Cook’s crew estimated the population at about 400,000). Western weapons soon played a key role in conflicts between island chiefs, including the rising warrior Kamehameha, who visited Captain Cook’s ship when it was anchored off Maui in November of 1778. Kamehameha fought his last major battle in 1795 at O‘ahu’s Nu‘uanu Valley where he conquered O‘ahu and gained control of all the Hawaiian Islands except Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau. Kaua‘i’s King Kaumuali‘i avoided imminent defeat in 1810 by ceding Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau to Kamehameha, thus allowing Kamehameha to declare a united Hawaiian Kingdom. After the death of King Kamehameha I on May 8, 1819, changes in the Hawaiian Islands occurred rapidly, beginning with the breaking of the eating kapu that prohibited men and women from eating together. This occurred when King Kamehameha II (Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho) ate with the dowager queens Keōpūolanikauhiakama [Keōpūolani] and Ka‘ahumanu, beginning a process that eroded away traditional Hawaiian religious beliefs and led to the complete overturning of the kapu system. The post-contact era saw the arrival of explorers, traders, whalers, military ships, and missionaries. The sandalwood trade began in 1791 and lasted until 1840, bringing a steady influx of foreigners who brought many foreign goods to trade for the valuable wood. The arduous labor involved in sandalwood harvesting caused a sharp decline in traditional Hawaiian food production. The whaling era began in 1819 and peaked in 1846 with the arrival of nearly 600 whaling ships, mostly at Lahaina and Honolulu. Whaling supported a bustling trade at port towns, and the boisterous and sometimes unruly whaling crews had far-reaching influences throughout the Islands. Many Hawaiians were hired to work aboard the whaling vessels, and many whalers stayed behind and became Hawaiian residents. The First Company of American missionaries arrived in 1820 and began to convert native Hawaiians to Christianity. By 1840, a total of twelve missionary companies had established at least 17 mission stations along with many churches and schools. Missionary influences were extensive, and included the development of a written Hawaiian language as well as the production and distribution of millions of pages of printed documents. In 1848, King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) instituted a system of private property ownership known as the Great Māhele, eventually leading to non-Hawaiians owning much of Hawai‘i’s land. The new availability of land helped commercial sugar production, which began on Kaua‘i in 1835, to become the driving force of Hawai‘i’s economy. The Reciprocity Treaty went into effect in 1876, allowing sugar to be sold in the United States without customs or duties. In return the United States was allowed to use Pearl Harbor as a naval base. The treaty resulted in a rapid expansion of Hawai‘i’s sugar industry, which increased ten-fold in just 15 years and then continued to double each decade. The plantation era brought major political and economic changes, with virtually all aspects of Island life controlled by Hawai‘i’s “Big Five” sugar companies: Theo H. Davies; American Factors (Amfac); C. Brewer & Co.; Alexander & Baldwin; and Castle & Cooke. With their interlocking directorates, the companies cooperated to control every aspect of their trade, from the workers in the fields to the laws and politics of the Hawaiian Kingdom. In 1893, Hawai‘i’s prominent sugar merchants were directly linked to the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy, with the backing of the U.S. Minister to Hawai‘i, John Leavitt Stevens, who ordered troops from the U.S.S. Boston ashore in Honolulu and supported the formation of a Provisional Government. To avoid bloodshed, Queen Lili‘uokalani yielded not to the Provisional Government but to the United States government, “...until such time as the Government of the United States shall, upon facts being presented to it, undo the action of its representatives and reinstate me in the authority which I claim as the Constitutional Sovereign of the Hawaiian Islands.” U.S. President Cleveland denounced the overthrow as lawless because it was achieved under “false pretexts.” Cleveland sent regrets about the “unauthorized intervention” and ordered the queen’s power restored, but the Provisional Government refused. In 1897, President Cleveland was succeeded by President McKinley, who favored annexation. When the Spanish-American War moved to the Philippines in 1898, the Hawaiian Islands became strategically important as a coaling base for the United States fleet, and the Hawaiian Islands were annexed to the United States. The rise of the sugar industry led to the mass immigration of foreign laborers, and by the 1930s hundreds of thousands of sugarcane plantation workers had arrived from China, Japan, the Philippines, Portugal, Korea, Spain, Puerto Rico, and other countries. These ethnic groups supplied a ready labor force for the plantations, and became the basis of today’s “melting pot” of cultures in the Islands. With the early foreigners came foreign diseases, however, including epidemics of mumps, measles, smallpox, whooping cough, tuberculosis, diphtheria, Asiatic cholera, and bubonic plague along with other diseases that together decimated the population of native Hawaiians, who were particularly vulnerable due to their lack of immunity to these foreign diseases. Less than 100 years after Captain Cook arrived in the Hawaiian Islands, fewer than 40,000 native Hawaiians remained down from an estimated population of more than 300,000 at the time of Western contact in 1778. The sugar industry continued its dominance of Hawai‘i’s economy through the first half of the 1900s with lesser contributions from pineapple exports, military spending, and tourism. Everything changed on December 7, 1941 when 350 Japanese bomber planes attacked Pearl Harbor, entering the United States into World War II. Hundreds of thousands of Army, Navy, and Marine Corps troops were stationed in the Hawaiian Islands and millions of servicemen passed through on their way to combat areas in the Pacific. After World War II ended, a new political movement was led by returning veterans, including Hawai‘i’s Nisei soldiers, the second generation Japanese-Americans who served as distinguished members of the renowned 442ndRegimental Combat Team and 100th Infantry Battalion. Forming alliances with other ethnic groups, these returning veterans won important election victories in what became known as the Democratic Revolution of 1954. The Democrats gained a majority in the Territorial House of Representatives and then won both Houses two years later to end the Republican domination. Democrats favored statehood, liberal labor benefits, land reform, and equality in education. Business leaders and large landowners supported the Democrats and encouraged a construction boom that included new airports, hotels, golf courses, and roads. Labor unrest that had come from more than a half century of control by the large sugar companies led to the rise of unions and increased workers’ rights. In 1959, Hawai‘i was officially admitted as the 50th state and a 50th star was added to the flag of the United States. Commercial jet service also began in 1959, leading to an increase in travel to the Hawaiian Islands and fueling the rapidly growing tourism industry. At the time of Statehood about 240,000 tourists were arriving each year, a number that would quadruple in the next decade and then keep growing. U.S. Representative John Burns was elected governor of the State of Hawai‘i in 1962, and Democrats for the first time controlled both the executive and legislative branches. Burns served until 1974 and was considered the founder of a Democratic political dynasty in Hawai‘i that lasted nearly three decades. The rise of the Democrats paralleled the rise of unions, which peaked in the 1970s when government employees earned the right to join unions and bargain for better contracts. Major strikes by dock workers and transit workers further increased power among labor groups. Meanwhile, tourism numbers continued to rise, exceeding two million annual visitors by 1972 and more than five million annually by 1986. Recent decades have seen a resurgence in traditional Hawaiian cultural knowledge and practices, infusing the native population with a renewed spirit and pride in ancient traditions. The Essay On Being Hawaiian by John Dominis Holt is said to have been a seminal work inspiring a “Hawaiian Renaissance,” which some say began with the launching of the Hōkūle‘a voyaging canoe in 1975. The Hōkūle‘a was built with the goal of demonstrating that migrating Polynesians could have sailed east against the prevailing winds. Voyagers have now sailed the 62-foot-long canoe more than 110,000 nautical miles, including six major continental and Pan-Pacific voyages. The 57-foot-long Hawai‘iloa voyaging canoe, built almost entirely out of traditional materials, made its first voyage in 1995. Several more voyaging canoes have now been built—the Makali‘i, Nāmāhoe, and Hōkūalaka‘i—and the growing fleet is helping Hawaiians to continue their quest for traditional knowledge. The number of speakers of the Hawaiian language also has grown from less than 4,000 in 1983, mostly elders who spoke Hawaiian to each other, to more than 7,000 today, most of whom are younger than thirty years old. Poho pono na pe‘a heke a ku ana. A well-filled topsail helped him to arrive. Said of a fast traveler.[2] Dedicated Hawaiian scholars, such as the prolific Mary Kawena Pūku‘i (1895-1986), have been integral to restoring ancestral values. Pūku‘i coauthored the Hawaiian Dictionary,[3]and Place Names of Hawaii[4] with Samuel H. Elbert, and published ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings,[5] and other important works now utilized by Hawaiian cultural practitioners and historians. In recent decades, Hawaiian scholars have shed new light on ancient times by translating many old documents and stories originally written in the Hawaiian language. One of these scholars is Pūku‘i’s former assistant, Frances Frazier, whose translations include such important works as Kamehameha and His Warrior Kekuhaupi‘o (2000), and The True Story of Kaluaikoolau as Told by his Wife, Piilani (2001). Just as Hawaiian scholars continue to bring forward new information through translations of Hawaiian language works that provide a clearer picture of Hawai‘i’s past, increasing cultural awareness has brought renewed efforts toward resolution of Hawaiian sovereignty issues. The sovereignty movement was given impetus on January 4, 1976 when the first protest occupation of the island of Kaho‘olawe took place to stop the island’s use as a military bombing target. President George Bush ended the use of Kaho‘olawe for bombing practice in 1990, and four years later the island was returned to the State of Hawai‘i. In 1993, President Clinton signed a Joint Resolution of Congress (Public Law 103-150), which “...apologizes to the Native Hawaiians on behalf of the people of the United States for the overthrow of the Kingdom of Hawaii on January 17, 1893,” and supports “...reconciliation efforts between the United States and the Native Hawaiian people.”[6] The continuing “Hawaiian Renaissance” has been enlivened by political activists, musicians, composers, and writers, and is celebrated in many annual festivals and competitions such as the Merrie Monarch Hula Festival, the King Kamehameha Hula Competition, and the Prince Lot Hula Festival. Performances of ancient as well as modern hula dances and oli (chants) are performed by hālau (hula groups) from throughout the Hawaiian Islands and beyond, and these well-attended events are a testament to the living Hawaiian culture. Japanese investment capital and tourism were the driving forces of Hawai‘i’s economy in the mid-1980s, but economic downturns in the 1990s in the United States and Japan caused a decrease in Hawai‘i’s rapid tourism growth and slowed the pace of new construction. Hawai‘i’s sugar industry also continued its long decline from more than 100 sugar mills operating in the Hawaiian Islands in the early 1900s to just two today. Lāna‘i’s last major commercial pineapple harvest took place in 1992. The state’s economy has thrived during the last decade due primarily to tourism. Nearly seven million visitors arrived in the Hawaiian Islands in the year 2000, coming to enjoy the ideal climate, stunning natural beauty, and genuine aloha spirit of Hawai‘i’s people. Visitor arrivals fell sharply in the years after the September 11, 2002 terrorist attacks on the World Trade Center inNew York and the Pentagon in Virginia. By 2004, tourism numbers had returned to previous levels, and then a new record was set in 2005 when about 7.4 million visitors arrived in the Hawaiian Islands. Home prices in the Hawaiian Islands have skyrocketed in recent years. These price increases have been due in large part to low interest rates that have spurred a general real estate boom nationwide, with many United States Mainland investors purchasing second (vacation) homes in the Hawaiian Islands. The sharp rise in real estate values has generally brought windfall profits to investors and homeowners, although it has made it harder for local residents to buy homes and has also caused large increases in property tax assessments, creating significant financial difficulties for some homeowners on fixed incomes. Many homeowners have converted their long-term rentals to more profitable short-term vacation rentals, displacing local residents and changing the character of local neighborhoods, while also worsening the already severe shortage of affordable housing. The state’s changing demographics have also brought new influences to local and state governments. In 2002, Linda Lingle became the first Republican governor in 40 years. Local leaders seek to diversify Hawai‘i’s economy by encouraging high tech companies, specialty agriculture, and other quality career options for residents. Despite these efforts, however, the state’s economy remains driven by the seemingly endless growth of the visitor industry and the state’s work force is increasingly comprised of lower paying, service-oriented jobs. Authentic cultural experiences and “eco-tourism” are promoted as ways to develop a sustainable economy that values the perpetuation of Hawaiian culture and the preservation of Hawai‘i’s environment while continuing to share these aspects of the Islands with visitors. Many employers honor local traditions, and the tourist industry in general has increased its efforts to share correct cultural knowledge in a way that is respectful to native Hawaiians, many of whom continue their ancient traditions and native culture—fishing, hunting, gathering plants from the land and limu from the ocean, stringing beautiful flower lei, and spending time with their ‘ohana (extended families). Hawai‘i’s tropical landscapes are filled with rare and extraordinary plants, animals, and birds while the coral reefs offshore support a multitude of colorful fish and fascinating marine life, an amazing array of unique life forms that evolved in isolation over millions of years. Scientists consider the Hawaiian Islands a natural laboratory of evolutionary processes like nowhere else on Earth, and researchers from around the world come to study Hawai‘i’s unique flora and fauna. Hawai‘i is also the capital of endangered and extinct species—about half of Hawai‘i’s endemic (unique) birds are already extinct, and Hawai‘i accounts for nearly 70% of the United States’ plant and animal extinctions. In recent decades, however, many endangered species populations have been protected and restored. The nēnē goose (Hawai‘i’s state bird) and the humpback whale (Hawai‘i’s state marine mammal) were both close to extinction, but are now growing in numbers. Hawai‘i is a beautiful and enchanted land, a place of pristine, white-sand beaches, luminous rainbows, waterfall-laced mountains, and lush valleys, but there are also dangers. Hawai‘i can be a rugged and unforgiving place—volcanic eruptions, hurricanes, landslides, tsunamis—and the daily news often tells of rescues on the rough seas and in the treacherous mountains. Several major tsunamis have brought destruction to the Hawaiian Islands in the last century, including the 1946 and 1960 tsunamis that together killed more than 200 people. Hurricanes have also brought devastation—Hurricane ‘Iniki in 1992 caused more than $3 billion in property damage. Recently the Native Hawaiian Reorganization Act (the Akaka Bill), sought to provide federal recognition to native Hawaiians and protect Hawaiian entitlements jeopardized by the U.S. Supreme Court decision in the Rice vs. Cayetanocase in February of 2000, which prohibited Hawaiians-only voting in Office of Hawaiian Affairs elections. The Akaka Bill failed to be approved by the U.S. Congress in 2006, and the future of many Hawaiian programs as well as the Hawaiian sovereignty movement remains uncertain with numerous different groups seeking different goals, including federal recognition of Hawaiians as an indigenous group, and reinstatement of a sovereign Hawaiian nation. As Hawai‘i moves into the future there will be challenges but also great promise, with the continuing revival of traditional native cultural practices, an improving natural environment as species and ecosystems are protected, and a robust economy fueled by Hawai‘i’s worldwide appeal as a visitor destination. Residents of the Hawaiian Islands, feeling lucky to live in one of the most beautiful places on Earth, continue to look to the future even as they cherish the rich history of their land and people.
Historic Periods of the Hawaiian Islands Note: Historic periods listed below, except the Modern Period, are based on classifications proposed by Patrick Vinton Kirch in Feathered Gods and Fishhooks (Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1985). Colonization Period A.D. 300 (±200)—600 Initial arrival and colonization of the Hawaiian archipelago by Polynesians, most likely from theMarquesas Islands about 2,500 miles (4,000 km) to the southeast. Relatively little is known about the culture, social customs, and rituals of this time period. Developmental Period 600—1100 Development of food production and acquisition strategies; utilization of plentiful native and Polynesian-introduced resources, including plants, birds, shellfish, and fish (including large game fish); the population reaches an estimated 20,000 people, moving beyond the windward valleys into arid leeward valleys and coastal areas; a unique Hawaiian culture begins to develop. Expansion Period 1100—1650 Major increase in population; increased agriculture; the first true loko ‘ia (fishponds) and the aquaculture techniques used to manage them; development of ahupua‘a system (natural watershed land divisions extending from the mountains to the sea) with land divisions under the control of sub-chiefs responsible to a paramount chief; and other significant changes in social and political structures. Protohistoric Period 1650—1778 Further increases in food production, including irrigation in lower valleys; continuing social and political changes with independent chiefdoms competing for rule; changes in architecture of heiau (sacred places of worship), including increasingly large luakini heiau where human sacrifices occur. Modern Period 1778—Present Western goods and weapons bring dramatic changes in traditional ways of living; the Hawaiian monarchy is overthrown in 1893; the Hawaiian Islands are annexed to the United States in 1898; sugar becomes the driving force of the economy through the first half of the 1900s; the Islands are increasingly utilized by the U.S. as a strategic military location, and become the 50th state in 1959; tourism grows to seven million annual visitors by 2005.
Nā Mō‘ī Hawai‘i The Hawaiian Monarchy The Eight Rulers of the United Hawaiian Kingdom Hawaiian MonarchReignBirthDeath King Kamehameha I [Pai‘ea Kamehameha] 1795—May 8, 1819 c.1753 May 8, 1819 King Kamehameha II [Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho] May 20, 1819—July 14, 1824 1796 July 14, 1824 King Kamehameha III [Kauikeaouli] June 6, 1825—Dec. 15, 1854 1814* Dec. 15, 1854 King Kamehameha IV [Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani] Dec. 15, 1854—Nov. 30, 1863 Feb. 9, 1834 Nov. 30, 1863 King Kamehameha V [Lot Kapuāiwa Kamehameha] Nov. 30, 1863—Dec. 11, 1872 Dec. 11, 1830 Dec. 11, 1872 King Lunalilo [William Charles Lunalilo] Jan. 8, 1873—Feb. 3, 1874 Jan. 31, 1835 Feb. 3, 1874 King Kalākaua [David La‘amea Kalākaua] Feb. 13, 1874—Jan. 20, 1891 Nov. 16, 1836 Jan. 20, 1891 Queen Lili‘uokalani [Lydia Kamaka‘eha Pākī] Jan. 29, 1891—Jan. 17, 1893 Sep. 2, 1838 Nov. 11, 1917 [* Note: Though the year of the birth of King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) is known to be 1814, the precise date is uncertain. In 1845 the Privy Council decided to designate March 17 as the official birthday of King Kamehameha III.] Kuhina Nui Premiers, or Regents, Sharing Power with the King YearsKuhina NuiDuring Reign of: 1819-1824 Ka‘ahumanu King Kamehameha II 1824-1832 Ka‘ahumanu King Kamehameha III 1832-1839 Kīna‘u King Kamehameha III 1839-1845 Kekāuluohi (Miriam ‘Auhea) King Kamehameha III 1845-1854 John Young II (Keoni Ana) King Kamehameha III, IV 1854-1863 Victoria Ka‘ahumanu Kamāmalu King Kamehameha IV, V 1863-1864 Mataio Kekūanaō‘a King Kamehameha V
Hawai‘i’s Major Political Periods 1795—1893 Kingdom of Hawai‘i 1893—1894 Provisional Government 1894—1900 Republic of Hawai‘i 1900—1959 Territory of Hawai‘i 1959—Present Statehood Governors of the Territory of Hawai‘i Appointed by the United States President. GovernorTerm of OfficeBirthDeath Sanford B. Dole (Annexationist*) 1900-1903 1844 1926 George R. Carter (Republican) 1903-1907` 1866 1933 Walter F. Frear (Republican) 1907-1913 1863 1948 Lucius E. Pinkham (Democrat) 1913-1918 1850 1922 Charles J. McCarthy (Democrat) 1918-1921 1861 1929 Wallace R. Farrington (Republican 1921-1929 1871 1933 Lawrence M. Judd (Republican) 1929-1934 1877 1968 Joseph B. Poindexter (Democrat) 1934-1942 1869 1951 Ingram M. Stainback (Democrat) 1942-1951 1883 1961 Oren E. Long (Democrat) 1951-1953 1889 1965 Samuel Wilder King (Republican) 1953-1957 1886 1959 William F. Quinn (Republican) 1957-1959 1919 * Republican.
Territorial Delegates to Congress DelegateBirth/DeathTermPolitical Party Robert William Wilcox 1855-1903 1900-1902 Home Rule Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana‘ole 1871-1922 1902-1922 Republican Henry Alexander Baldwin 1871-1946 1922-1923 Republican* William Paul Jarrett 1877-1929 1923-1927 Democrat Victor Stewart Kaleoaloha Houston 1876-1959 1927-1933 Republican Lincoln Loy McCandless 1859-1940 1933-1935 Democrat Samuel Wilder King 1886-1959 1935-1943 Republican Joseph Rider Farrington 1897-1954 1943-1954 Republican Mary Elizabeth Pruett Farrington 1898-1984 1954-1954 Republican* Mary Elizabeth Pruett Farrington 1898-1984 1954-1957 Republican John Anthony Burns 1909-1975 1957-1959 Democrat ` (until statehood) *Unexpired Term
Governors and Lieutenant Governors of the State of Hawai‘i GovernorTerm of Office William F. Quinn (Republican) 1959-1962 John A. Burns (Democrat) 1962-1964 George R. Ariyoshi (Democrat) 1974-1986 John D. Waihee III (Democrat) 1986-1994 Benjamin J. Cayetano (Democrat) 1994-2002 Linda Lingle (Republican) 2002-Present Lieutenant GovernorTerm of Office James Kealoha (Republican) 1959-1962 William S. Richardson (Democrat) 1962-1966 Tom Gill (Democrat) 1966-1970 George Ariyoshi (Democrat) 1970-1973 Nelson Doi (Democrat) 1974-1978 Jean King (Democrat) 1978-1982 John D. Waihee III (Democrat) 1982-1986 Benjamin J. Cayetano (Democrat) 1986-1994 Mazie Hirono (Democrat) 1994-2002 James Aiona (Republican) 2002-Present
The State of Hawai‘i The Aloha State Facts and Official Information About the State of Hawai‘i Land Area: 6,423.4 square miles (16,636.6 sq. km). Size Comparison: 47th largest of the United States. Statehood: Became 50th state on August 21, 1959. Latitude: Between 19º and 22º north (main Islands). Longitude: Between 155º and 161º west (main Islands). State Bird: Nēnē—Hawaiian goose (Branta sandvicensis). State Tree: Kukui—Candlenut (Aleurites moluccana). State Flower: Pua Ma‘o Hau Hele—Yellow Hibiscus (Hibiscus brackenridgei). State Marine Mammal: Koholā—Humpback Whale (Megaptera novaeangliae). State Team Sport: Outrigger Canoe Paddling. State Fish: Humuhumu-nukunuku-ā-pua‘a—Reef triggerfish (Rhinecanthus rectangulus). State Song (Anthem): Hawai‘i Pono‘ī (words written by King Kalākaua, music by Henry Berger). State Gem: Black Coral. Official State Nickname: The Aloha State. State of Hawai‘i Holidays ØNew Year’s Day—January 1. ØDr. Martin Luther King Jr. Day—January 19. ØPresidents’ Day—February 16. ØPrince Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana‘ole Day—March 26. ØGood Friday—April 9. ØMemorial Day—May 31. ØKing Kamehameha Day—June 11. ØIndependence Day—July 11. ØAdmissions Day—Third Friday in August. ØLabor Day—September 6. ØVeterans’ Day—November 1. ØElection Day—November 2. ØThanksgiving Day—Fourth Thursday in November. ØChristmas Day—December 25. State Motto: Ua mau ke ea o ka ‘āina i ka pono. The life of the land is perpetuated (preserved) in righteousness. State Seal: Hawai‘i’s State Seal was created in 1959 when the Hawaiian Islands became the 50th state. Designed after the Territorial Seal, the State Seal is circular in shape, with the words “State of Hawai‘i” on the top of the Seal, and Hawai‘i’s State Motto (see above) written on the bottom. In the middle of the State Seal is a heraldic shield, which is also the state’s Coat of Arms. Kapu sticks are on the lower left and upper right of the shield, and horizontal stripes are at the lower right and upper left of the shield. Above the shield is the sun, and “1959,” commemorating statehood. King Kamehameha I is to the left of the shield, while the Goddess of Liberty (holding the state flag) is on the right side of the shield. A phoenix with leaves of kalo (Colocasia esculenta, taro), mai‘a (Musa species, banana), and ‘iwa‘iwa (Adiantaceae, maidenhair fern) are at the bottom of the State Seal, which was designed by Viggo Jacobsen in 1895 for the Republic of Hawai‘i. The State Seal was designed after the Territorial Seal. [Photograph: State Seal]
Ocean Channels Between Islands Kaulakahi Channel“The single flame (streak of color”[7]) Between Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau Ka‘ie‘iewaho Channel*“Outer Ka‘ie‘ie,”[8] after ‘ie‘ie vine.[9]B etween Kaua‘i and O‘ahu Kaiwi Channel “The bone”[10] Moloka‘i and O‘ahu Kalohi Channel“The slowness”[11] Between Lāna‘i and Moloka‘i Pailolo Channel“Pai (lift), oloolo (shifting)”[12] Between Maui and Moloka‘i ‘Au‘au Channel“Bathe”[13] Between Lāna‘i and Maui Kealaikahiki Channel “The way to foreign lands”[14] Kaho‘olawe and Lāna‘i ‘Alalākeiki Channel “Child’s wail (believed heard here)”[15] Maui and Kaho‘olawe ‘Alenuihāhā Channel “Great billows smashing”[16] Between Maui and Hawai‘i Island *The Ka‘ie‘iewaho is also called the Kaua‘i Channel.
Distances: Hawai‘i Island to Midway Atoll: 1,580 miles (2,543 km). Hawai‘i Island to Kaua‘i: More than 400 miles (644 km). Honolulu to Equator: 1,470 miles (2,366 km). Honolulu to Tokyo, Japan: 3,847 miles (6,191 km). Honolulu to Los Angeles, California: 2,557 miles (4,115 km). Honolulu to Anchorage Alaska: 2,781 miles (4,476 km). Honolulu to Midway Atoll: 1,309 miles (2,107 km). [Illustration: Map of eight main Hawaiian Islands, each island boldly labeled.] [Text underneath: The State of Hawai‘i. Text on each island: Kaua‘i, Ni‘ihau, O‘ahu, Maui, Lāna‘i, Kaho‘olawe, Moloka‘i, and Hawai‘i Island.]
[Text below illustration:] The Hawaiian Islands. The Hawaiian archipelago slices through the Tropic of Cancer, and extends in a line from southeast to northwest for about 1,523 miles (2,451 km), from Hawai‘i Island at about 19º north latitude to Kure Island at 28.5º north latitude, from 154º to 179º west longitude. The eight main Hawaiian Islands span from about 19º to 22º north latitude, and from about 154º to 161º west longitude. The main Hawaiian Islands comprise 99.9% of the total land area of the Hawaiian Island Chain. The Northwestern Hawaiian Islands constitute the other .1% (one-tenth of one percent) of the State of Hawai‘i’s land area. Na kai ‘ewalu. The eight seas. The “seas” that divide the eight inhabited islands. (Pukui: 2224-243) Each of the Hawaiian Islands was born on the seafloor at the site of the Hawaiian magmatic hot spot, a stationary plume of magma (molten lava) rising up from deep in the Earth (see Hawaiian-Emperor Chain, Chapter 4). This volcanic activity continues today as the uprising lava burns through the crust of the Pacific seafloor and forms volcanoes that eventually rise above the ocean’s surface to become islands. The Hawaiian Islands are continually carried northwest by the movement of Earth’s crust. The southeast portion of the island of Hawai‘i, the chain’s newest island, is currently above the hot spot plume of lava. About 18 miles (29 km) off the southeast coast of Hawai‘i Island, Lō‘ihi Seamount is about 3,116 feet (950 m) below the surface of the Pacific Ocean, and rises up more than 9,000 feet (2,743 m) tall from the seafloor. The erupting summit of Lō‘ihi should rise above the water in about 50,000 to 200,000 years from now to become the next Hawaiian Island.
O‘ahu The Gathering Place Overview of O‘ahu Land Area: 596.7 square miles (1,545.4 sq. km). Size Comparison: 3rd largest Hawaiian Island; most populated island. Island Emblem: Pua ‘Ilima—Flower of ‘Ilima (Sida fallax). Highest Elevation: 4,003 feet (1,220 m), at the summit of Ka‘ala (in the Wai‘anae Range). Official Nickname: The Gathering Place. [Illustration: Map—O‘ahu] O‘ahu is about 44 miles (71 km) long by 30 miles (48 km) wide, with more than 112 miles (180 km) of coastline and at least 100 white-sand beaches. Popular surfing sites are found on all sides of O‘ahu, including the north shore’s renowned Banzai Pipeline where the world’s best surfers challenge the giant winter waves. O‘ahu has more than 800,000 residents, and each day O‘ahu hosts an average of nearly 70,000 tourists. Hotel rooms and vacation accommodations number more than 36,000 rooms. [Photograph: Waikīkī] The prominent geographical features of O‘ahu are two parallel mountain ranges: the older Wai‘anaeMountainsand the deep-furrowed Ko‘olau Mountains. Formed by volcanic eruptions more than one million years ago, the two mountain ranges are aligned perpendicular to the northeast tradewinds, creating a wet windward side of O‘ahu (the eastern side) and a much drier leeward side. The majestic Ko‘olau Mountains run north to south for the entire span of the island of O‘ahu. Between the two major mountain ranges is Leilehua Plateau, a fertile area known for its pineapple production. [Photograph: Ko‘olau Mountains at Waimanalo (steep, deep furrows)] O‘ahu has three prominent geologic landmarks known as tuff cones: Koko Head (Kohelepelepe), Punchbowl (Pūowaina), and Diamond Head (Lē‘ahi). These volcanic cones provide visual reminders of the island’s volcanic past. O‘ahu has 62 county parks as well as 25 state parks and three national parks.
O‘ahu Cultural / Historical Sites and Attractions Honolulu ‘Iolani Palace History of ‘Iolani Palace The Interior of ‘Iolani Palace Palace to Prison to Capitol The Restored ‘Iolani Palace Grand Hall Blue Room State Dining Room Throne Room The Second Floor of ‘Iolani Palace Upper Hall King’s Library Gold Room Queen Kapi‘olani’s Bedroom Queen Lili‘uokalani’s Prison Chamber ‘Iolani Palace Grounds ‘Iolani Barracks Coronation Pavilion—Keli‘iponi Hale Royal Tomb Likelike Gate Hakaleleponi Gate Kīna‘u Gate Kauikeaouli Gate Ali‘iōlani Hale King Kamehameha V—Judiciary History Center of Hawai‘i Center Theater The Monarchy Courts Gallery 1913 Court Room Temporary Exhibit Room Statue of King Kamehameha I Washington Place—The Governor’s Residence Bust of Queen Emma State Capitol Building Statue of Queen Lili‘uokalani Statue of Father Damien Bishop Street Mission Houses Museum—Nā Hale Hō‘ike‘ike O Nā Mikanele The Frame House—Hale Lā‘au Chamberlain House—Hale Kamalani The Printing Office—Hale Pa‘i Kawaiaha‘o Church Tomb of King Lunalilo Honolulu Hale—City Hall Hawai‘i State Library Hawai‘i State Archives—Kekāuluohi Building Territorial Archives Building (Old Archives Building)—Kana‘ina Building Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum History and Purpose Bishop Museum Today—An Overview Visiting the Bishop Museum Vestibule Gallery Kāhili Room Hawaiian Hall Polynesian Hall Hall of Hawaiian Natural History Other Museum Areas Bishop Museum Planetarium Hall of Discovery Cooke Rotunda-Explorers Center Atherton Hālau and Canoe Hale Castle Hall Hawaiian Courtyard Sports Hall of Fame Bishop Museum Library and Archives Ray Jerome Baker Room Hale Kā‘eo & Hawaiian Science Garden Bishop Museum Press Other Bishop Museum Sites Hawai‘i Maritime Center King Kalākaua Boathouse Falls of Clyde Hōkūle‘a and Hawai‘iloa Voyaging Canoes Bishop Museum at Kālia (Waikīkī) Amy B. H. Greenwell Ethnobotanical Garden (Hawai‘i Island) Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop—Princess Pauahi (1831—1884) Charles Reed Bishop (1822—1915) Waikīkī Historic Waikīkī Waikīkī in Transition Waikīkī—A Resort Destination The Waikīkī Beachboys Modern Waikīkī—Beaches, Historic Sites, and other Attractions Ala Wai Canal Kahanamoku Beach and Lagoon Fort DeRussy Beach U.S. Army Museum of Hawai‘i Gray’s Beach Statue of Princess Ka‘iulani Royal Moana Beach / Central Waikīkī Beach Nā Pōhaku Ola Kapaemāhu Ā Kapuni—The Stones of Life Statue of Duke Kahanamoku Kūhiō Beach Park Statue of Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana‘ole Damien Museum Kapi‘olani Beach Park War Memorial Natatorium San Souci Beach Kapi‘olani Park Kapi‘olani Bandstand Waikīkī Shell Honolulu Zoo Zoo Fence Art Mart Waikīkī Aquarium Southeast O‘ahu Diamond Head State Monument Lē‘ahi Fort Ruger Diamond Head Trail Diamond Head Beach Koko Head Regional Park Koko Crater / Koko Head ‘Ihi‘ihilauākea Crater Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve Witches Brew Toilet Bowl Sandy Beach Park Hālona Blowhole Hālona Cove Makapu‘u Point Kāohikaipu Manana Island (Rabbit Island) Makapu‘u Beach Sea Life Park Waimanalo Waimanalo Beach Park Waimanalo Bay Beach Park Bellows Field Beach Park Pearl Harbor U.S.S. Arizona Memorial U.S.S. Missouri U.S.S. Bowfin Submarine Museum and Park Keaīwa Heiau Keaīwa Heiau State Recreation Area ‘Aiea Loop Trail Leeward O‘ahu Kapolei Barbers Point Naval Air Station Waipahu Hawai‘i’s Plantation Village Wai‘anae Coast Nānākuli Wai‘anae Mākaha Kānē‘ākī Heiau Mākaha Beach Mākua Beach Keawa‘ula (Yokohama Beach) Ka‘ena Point State Park The Windward Side—Makapu‘u to Kahuku Kahuku Point / James Campbell National Wildlife Refuge Mālaekahana State Recreation Area / Moku‘auia (Goat Island) Mālaekahana Beach Kalanai Point Makahoa Point Lā‘ie / Polynesian Cultural Center Punalu‘u Beach Park Kahana Valley and Bay / Huilua Fishpond Crouching Lion Swanzy Beach Park Ka‘a‘awa Senator Fong’s Plantation Gardens Kahalu‘u Byodo-In / Valley of the Temples Memorial Park Kāne‘ohe Kāne‘ohe Bay Moku-o-Lo‘e (Coconut Island) Kualoa Regional Park Apua Pond Mōli‘i Fishpond Mokoli‘i (Chinaman’s Hat) He‘eia State Park He‘eia Fishpond Kealohi Point He‘eia-Kea Harbor Ho‘omaluhia Botanical Garden Ulopō Heiau / Kawainui Marsh Kailua / Kailua Bay The North Shore Hale‘iwa Rainbow Bridge North Shore Surf & Cultural Museum Mokulē‘ia Beach Dillingham Airfield Mokulē‘ia Beach Park Waialua Bay Waimea Pu‘u-o-mahuka Heiau Waimea Bay Beach Park Waimea Falls Park Pūpūkea Beach Park Shark’s Cove Old Quarry Three Tables ‘Ehukai Beach Park / Banzai Pipeline Sunset Beach Park Kawela Bay Kaihalulu Point Central O‘ahu Wahiawā Botanical Garden Kolekole Pass
O‘ahu Cultural / Historical Sites and Attractions Honolulu The State of Hawai‘i’s capital city of Honolulu (which means “sheltered, or protected bay”) has many cultural and historical attractions, the most prominent of which are described below: [Insert Map Here of Downtown Honolulu (showing locations listed in Table of Contents above)] ‘Iolani Palace Location: King and Richards Streets / Phone: 808-522-0832 / www.alike.lcc.hawaii.edu/openstudio/iolani. Guided tours offered to the public from 9 to 2:15, Tuesday to Saturday; Gallery 9-4. [Photograph: ‘Iolani Palace] History of ‘Iolani Palace The cornerstone for ‘Iolani Palace was laid on December 31, 1879 in midtown Honolulu. Some of the stones used in the foundation of ‘Iolani Palace were brought from Kūki‘i Heiau (in Puna on Hawai‘i Island), which was built by the Hawai‘i Island chief ‘Umi-a-Līloa. ‘Iolani Palace was a project of King Kalākaua, and was built near the site of the earlier royal palace, called Hale Ali‘i. Before Hale Ali‘i was built, there was a heiau (sacred place of worship) on the site. Hale Ali‘i was originally constructed by Mataio Kekūanaō‘a, a high chief and the Governor of O‘ahu, for his daughter, Princess Victoria Kamāmalu. The house was given to King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) in 1845 when the king moved his court to Honolulu from Lahaina. Hale Ali‘i was named ‘Iolani in 1863 at the request of King Kamehameha V (Lot Kapuāiwa Kamehameha). The name “‘Iolani” was chosen by King Kamehameha V, who wanted a name chosen to honor his deceased brother, the former king, Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani). ‘Iolani was one of names of Kamehameha IV, and was also a sacred hawk of Hawaiian mythology. ‘Iolani means “Hawk of heaven,” or “Royal hawk.” The flight of the ‘io (Buteo solitarius, Hawaiian hawk) is believed to be a sign of royalty. (See Hawaiian Hawk, Chapter 7.) [Photograph: ‘Io, Hawaiian hawk] Hale Ali‘i was demolished in 1876 due to termites. The construction of ‘Iolani Palace began in 1879, and in 1882 ‘Iolani Palace was completed and furnished. Utilizing three different architects, and measuring 140 feet (42.7 m) long and 100 feet (30.5 m) wide, ‘Iolani Palace cost nearly $360,000 to build. The architectural style of the palace was said by newspapers of the day to be “American Florentine” architecture, or “American Composite.” ‘Iolani Palace was the royal palace of the Hawaiian monarchy for King Kalākaua and Queen Kapi‘olani from 1882 to 1891, and then was the royal palace for Queen Lili‘uokalani for the next two years, until the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy in 1893. Many valuable items were taken from ‘Iolani Palace by those involved in the overthrow of the monarchy, and much of the Palace furniture was sold between 1895 and 1903 in public auctions. After the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy (see Chapter 11, Timeline: 1893), ‘Iolani Palace was used as the capitol building of the Republic of Hawai‘i (1893-1900), and then as the capitol building for the Territory of Hawai‘i (1900-1959), and eventually for the State of Hawai‘i (1960-1969). During this time, ‘Iolani Palace was known as the Executive Building. The Throne Room was used for meetings of the House of Representatives, and the State Dining Room was used as the Senate Chambers. The Minister of Finance used the Blue Room, where heavy safes were installed, while the Minister of Foreign Affairs used the Gold Room, and the Attorney General used Queen Kapi‘olani’s Bedroom. The Secretary of the Territory used the room now known as Queen Lili‘uokalani’s Prison Chamber, which later housed the Lieutenant Governor of the State of Hawai‘i. In 1969, the new State Capitol was constructed and the long process of the restoration of ‘Iolani Palace began. The Interior of ‘Iolani Palace At least four years before the United States’ White House installed electricity, the original gas lamps in ‘Iolani Palace were replaced with electric lights. King Kalākaua was very interested in new technology, and once met Thomas Edison. Electric lights were installed at ‘Iolani Palace on July 21, 1886. Five lamps in all were installed, including one at the Palace, one at the gate to the Palace on Richards Street, two on King Street, and one at the Government Building. Within two years Honolulu’s streetlights, which were formerly gasoline lamps, were also replaced with electric lights. ‘Iolani Palace was also ahead of its time in other ways, including flushing toilets and bidets, hot and cold running water, copper-lined tubs and other amenities. Beautifully crafted native and Polynesian-introduced woods such as koa (Acacia koa), kou (Cordia subcordata), kamani (Calophyllum inophyllum, Alexandrian laurel), and ‘ōhi‘a lehua (Metrosideros species) were used throughout the interior along with other fine hardwoods. [Photograph: Grand Hall entrance to ‘Iolani Palace showing koa staircase] Formal functions were held on the main floor of ‘Iolani Palace, and the royal family resided on the second floor. An attic helped keep the building cool, and the basement of the palace housed the Palace kitchen. The basement was also where all the silver, wines, food and other materials were stored in order to supply the lavish social events held at the Palace. A dumbwaiter transported the royal meals up to the first and second floors. The basement also housed the office of the Chamberlain, who managed the many activities occurring at ‘Iolani Palace on a daily basis. The basement had rooms to house more than forty servants, and also a room that held the kāhili, the feather standards that were symbols of Hawaiian royalty. Many of these kāhili are now on display in the basement of ‘Iolani Palace, along with other precious cultural artifacts. The kitchen is also beautifully restored to authentically represent the era of the monarchy. Palace to Prison to Capitol On January 6, 1895, there was a minor (and failed) attempt by a small group of Hawaiians (apparently with no direct participation by Queen Lili‘uokalani), to begin a counterrevolution to restore the queen (see Chapter 11, Timeline: 1895, Jan. 6). Queen Lili‘uokalani denied any involvement, but Martial Law was declared on January 7 and a military commission was appointed to court martial Queen Lili‘uokalani and others. On January 16, 1895 Queen Lili‘uokalani was imprisoned in ‘Iolani Palace. On January 24, 1895 the queen signed a formal abdication and called for the recognition of the Republic of Hawai‘i as the lawful government. Queen Lili‘uokalani later claimed that this abdication was invalid due to coercion. On February 5, Queen Lili‘uokalani was arraigned before the military commission for treason, a charge later changed to misprision of treason (knowing of the attempted counterrevolution but not disclosing it). On February 27, 1895, Queen Lili‘uokalani was found guilty of misprision of treason and sentenced to a fine of $5,000 and imprisonment with hard labor for five years. This sentence was not carried out, though she remained imprisoned in ‘Iolani Palace for seven months. Queen Lili‘uokalani was released from ‘Iolani Palace on September 6, 1895, but was then confined to Washington Place until February 6, 1896, and then island-restricted until October 6, 1896. Lili‘uokalani’s freedom was restricted for 21 months in all, from Jan. 16, 1895 until October 6, 1896. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1895, Jan. 6; 1879, Dec. 31.) The defiling of ‘Iolani Palace after the overthrow of the monarchy was followed by many decades of use the Palace as a capitol building (1893 to 1969), for the Republic, Territory, and State of Hawai‘i, leaving the Palace in disrepair. After extensive renovations, beginning in 1969, ‘Iolani Palace was opened as a museum in 1978. The non-profit organization Friends of ‘Iolani Palace now runs the museum, offering guided tours of the United States’ only royal palace. Friends of ‘Iolani Palace also continues to tackle the daunting task of retrieving (sometimes from distant collections) the numerous original furnishings and effects that were taken from ‘Iolani Palace after the overthrow of the monarchy. The Restored ‘Iolani Palace The various rooms of ‘Iolani Palace each have their own decor and their own history, including the church-likeGrand Hall, which spans the width of the palace. Royal portraits line the walls of the Grand Hall, with ten kings and queens of the monarchy on display. From the Grand Hall guests were escorted into the adjoining reception rooms. A prominent koa wood staircase in the Grand Hall leads to the second floor’s Upper Hall (described below). The stately Blue Room, which is directly on the left after entering the Palace, was used for informal meetings and small receptions. The room’s blue satin drapes are trimmed with velvet, and on display are matching portraits of Queen Lili‘uokalani and King Kalākaua, both painted by William Cogswell. Renowned portraitist Franz-Xavier Winterhalter created the portrait of King Louis Philippe of France, which is also on display in the Blue Room. The painting was a gift from the French government to King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) in 1848. The Blue Room once held a grand piano that was often played by members of the royal family, many of who were competent musicians. On January 14, 1893, Queen Lili‘uokalani summoned her Cabinet Ministers to the Blue Room and presented them with a new constitution whose principal aim was to restore the royal prerogatives. This was the initial event that led to the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy. Adjoining the Blue Room is the State Dining Room, which is adorned with portraits of world leaders from England, France, Germany and Russia. Bohemian crystal and Paris porcelain add to the aura of formality of this room. After the overthrow of the monarchy, the State Dining Room was used as the Senate Chambers by the Territory and then the State of Hawai‘i. [Photographs: Blue Room; State Dining Room] Another first floor room is the Throne Room, which contains numerous historic artifacts such as the original thrones of King Kalākaua and Queen Lili‘uokalani. Gold and maroon colors decorate the Throne Room along with symbols of Hawaiian royalty, such as kāhili (royal feather standards), and a pūlo‘ulo‘u, consisting of a gold sphere atop a 7-foot (2.1-m) spiral, ivory tusk from a narwhal whale (Monodon monoceros). In ancient Hawai‘i, the ball on top of a traditional pūlo‘ulo‘u was made of kapa (tapa) barkcloth, and the pūlo‘ulo‘u was used to signal the presence of a chief. [Photograph: Throne Room] The Throne Room was used for formal receptions, and is also where King Kalākaua and Queen Kapi‘olani threw elaborate and grand balls. The king was also known to dance the polka and Virginia reel, and sometimes waltzed through the night. On a more somber note, the Throne Room is where Queen Lili‘uokalani was prosecuted by the Republic of Hawai‘i after the 1895 rebellion led by her supporters who were attempting to restore the deposed queen to power (see Chapter 11, Timeline: 1895, Jan. 6). The Throne Room was later used by the House of Representatives of the new government. The Second Floor of ‘Iolani Palace A grand koa wood staircase ascends to the second floor’s Upper Hall, which was used for private dining and sometimes for displaying royal possessions, such as kāhili (royal feather standards) and ahu‘ ula (royal feather capes and cloaks). Rooms on the second floor include the King’s Suite (King Kalākaua’s bedroom), the King’s Library, the Gold Room, and Queen Kapi‘olani’s Bedroom. Also on the second floor is Queen Lili‘uokalani’s Prison Chamber, where she was imprisoned for eight months after the overthrow of the monarchy. The King’s Library served as King Kalākaua’s office. On display are some of his original books along with a large table and high-backed Elizabethan-style chairs. A telephone mounted on the wall was one of the first in Honolulu. [Photograph: King’s Library] After the overthrow of the monarchy in 1893, the King’s Library as well King Kalākaua’s bedroom was used by Sanford B. Dole, who was the first President of Provisional Government. Dole later became President of the Republic of Hawai‘i (1895 to1898), and then the first Governor of the Territory of Hawai‘i (1898 to 1903). Dole’s successors also used the quarters. The Gold Room, also called the Music Room, was used for gatherings of the royal family. After the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy, the Minister of Foreign Affairs used the Gold Room. Queen Kapi‘olani’s Bedroom, which is on the Waikīkī side of the building, is decorated with red upholstery and curtains, and mahogany furniture. After the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy, the Attorney General used the room. On January 16, 1895, when Queen Lili‘uokalani was imprisoned in ‘Iolani Palace, she was confined to a sparsely furnished second floor room now referred to as Queen Lili‘uokalani’s Prison Chamber. The deposed queen was allowed paper and pencils to write, but was not allowed to read newspapers or books. Now on display in the room (under glass) is the queen’s hand-stitched silk quilt. During her imprisonment, the queen stitched into this quilt the Hawaiian flag as well as the names of people who remained loyal to her during the political crisis. After Queen Lili‘uokalani was freed from her imprisonment in ‘Iolani Palace (her former home), her room was used by the new government as the office for the Secretary of the Territory. Later the room was used as the office of the Lieutenant Governor of the State of Hawai‘i. ‘Iolani Palace Grounds The medieval looking ‘Iolani Barracks building was constructed in 1870, opening in 1871. Firing loops are built into the walls of ‘Iolani Barracks and archery parapets are located atop the building. Designed by Theodore Heuck, a German immigrant, the structure was used by the Kingdom’s army, originally known as the Household Troops and comprised of about 60 soldiers. An inner courtyard area was used for roll call. The army was later called the Household Guard, or Royal Guard, and included the Royal Hawaiian Band. ‘Iolani Barracks now houses The Palace Shop (selling books and gifts), and a small theater where visitors are shown a short film about the history of ‘Iolani Palace. ‘Iolani Barracks is also the place to purchase ‘Iolani Palace tour tickets. ‘Iolani Barracks was originally constructed in 1870 at an adjacent site, where the State Capitol now stands. Stone by stone, ‘Iolani Barracks was moved in 1965 to its present location, at 364 South King Street on the ‘Iolani Palace grounds, and completely restored. ‘Iolani Barracks was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1978. Another structure on the grounds of ‘Iolani Palace is the Coronation Pavilion, also known as Keli‘iponi Hale. The Coronation Pavilion is an octagonal, copper-domed structure with eight tapered columns. The Pavilion was built for the coronation ceremony of King Kalākaua and Queen Kapi‘olani, which took place on February 12, 1883. The coronation was a gallant ceremony during which King Kalākaua placed upon his own head a jeweled crown, and then placed another slightly smaller crown on Queen Kapi‘olani. These crowns are now on display in the basement of ‘Iolani Palace. Two weeks of festivities included a grand lū‘au, parades, gun salutes, fireworks and formal receptions. The ceremony also included the unveiling of the statue of King Kamehameha I (see below) in front of Ali‘iōlani Hale across the street from the ‘Iolani Palace. The Coronation Pavilion was also used for King Kalākaua’s 50th birthday jubilee, which took place in November of 1886. [Photographs: ‘Iolani Barracks; Coronation Pavilion] The Coronation Pavilion is now used for inaugurations of Governors of the State of Hawai‘i, as well as for concerts by the Royal Hawaiian Band. Originally the Coronation Pavilion was closer to the Palace, near the steps on the King Street side and connected by a bridge to the first floor veranda. The Pavilion was later moved to its current location a bit farther from ‘Iolani Palace (near the King-Richards Street corner). In the early 1900s a concrete basement was added, and concrete columns and balustrades replaced what had been delicate woodwork. During World War II the Pavilion was used as a bomb shelter. On the makai-Diamond Head side of ‘Iolani Palace grounds, a wrought iron fence surrounds a grassy mound, which was once the Royal Tomb of King Kamehameha II (Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho) and Queen Kamāmalu, both of who died of measles in London, England in 1824. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1824). In 1865, with a solemn torchlight procession, their royal remains were moved to Nu‘uanu Valley where the Royal Mausoleum had been completed (see Royal Mausoleum below). The bones of other Hawaiian royalty may still be buried beneath the grassy mound on the Palace grounds. Between ‘Iolani Barracks and the Coronation Pavilion is a kukui tree (Aleurites moluccana, candlenut tree) planted by Franklin Delano Roosevelt on July 26, 1934. [Photographs: ‘Iolani Barracks; Coronation Pavilion] An 8-foot (2.4-m) tall, coral block wall once surrounded the ‘Iolani Palace grounds, with wooden gates allowing entry and exit. The Wilcox Rebellion in 1889 (see Chapter 11, Timeline: 1889, July 30) resulted in the lowering of the wall to 42 inches (107 cm), and then in 1891 an iron fence was installed atop the wall. The four main Palace gates are designated for specific purposes: the Likelike Gate was used by royalty; theHakaleleponi Gate was used by retainers; the Kīna‘u Gate was where tradesmen entered; and the Kauikeaouli Gate was used for state ceremonies. [Photograph: ‘Iolani Palace] Ali‘iōlani Hale Location: 417 South King Street, Honolulu / Phone: 808-539-4999 / Website: Jhchawaii.org Open free to general public for self-guided tours; Mon.-Fri., 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. [Photograph: Ali‘iōlani Hale] King Kamehameha V (Lot Kapuāiwa Kamehameha) laid the cornerstone for Ali‘iōlani Hale on February 19, 1872, and the building was completed in 1874. Ali‘iōlani Hale has housed Hawai‘i’s Supreme Court since the days of the monarchy. The building has also housed the Legislature. Before Ali‘iōlani Hale could be constructed, the O‘ahu Charity School had to be removed from the site. The school had been established in 1831 to provide education to children born to Hawaiian mothers and foreign fathers. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1831.) Hawai‘i’s Supreme Court met in private houses in Honolulu until 1852, when the Honolulu Courthouse was built (using coral blocks) on Queen Street near the old Honolulu Fort. A year later a second story was added to the Honolulu Courthouse. At the time, the Honolulu Courthouse was one of the largest buildings in Honolulu, and was also the site of many social events including banquets, musical performances, church services and official ceremonies. Hawai‘i’s Legislature also met in the Honolulu Courthouse. Following the election of King Kalākaua in 1874 (see Chapter 11, Timeline: 1874, Feb. 12), the Honolulu Courthouse was extensively damaged in a riot by supporters of Queen Emma, who had asserted a claim to the throne but lost the election. Ali‘iōlani Hale became the new seat of the Hawaiian government, and the old Honolulu Courthouse became the main office for Amfac (American Factors Ltd., a “Big Five” company). Though Ali‘iōlani Hale was never used as a royal palace, that was the original purpose of the building. Ali‘iōlani was one of the names of King Kamehameha V (Lot Kapuāiwa Kamehameha), and is thought to be a contraction of Ali‘i-iō-lani, which means “Chief unto heavens” referring to the heavenly nature of Hawaiian royalty. One interpretation of the building name, Ali‘iōlani Hale, is “House of Heavenly Kings.” King Kamehameha V planned and initiated the construction of the building, which was designed by Australian architect Thomas Rowe and built with concrete blocks. It was the first major Western-style building constructed by the Hawaiian monarchy, and is notable for its distinctive clock tower. On July 30, 1889, Robert W. Wilcox (who was part Hawaiian) led about 150 armed insurgents in a revolt against King Kalākaua. At 6 a.m. the men marched to Ali‘iōlani Hale and took over the building as well as the grounds of ‘Iolani Palace. The rebels opposed reform measures instituted in 1887, and wanted the king to proclaim a new constitution. King Kalākaua refused and shots are exchanged between Wilcox’s men and government forces, who placed sharpshooters in the tower of Kawaiaha‘o Church and surrounding buildings. Bombs made with dynamite were thrown into the grounds of ‘Iolani Palace, scattering the rebels. Seven insurgents were killed and 12 more wounded. From 1874 until 1893, Ali‘iōlani Hale housed the Legislature of the Kingdom of Hawai‘i. Sanford Ballard Dole stood on the steps of Ali‘iōlani Hale in January of 1893 and announced that a Provisional Government had been formed after the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy (see Chapter 11, Timeline: 1893, Jan.). The Provisional Government renamed Ali‘iōlani Hale “The Court House.” The House of Representatives and the House of Nobles met at Ali‘iōlani Hale until 1896, when they moved to ‘Iolani Palace (renamed “The Executive Building”). In 1911, Ali‘iōlani Hale underwent reconstruction. The building was in disrepair due to termite damage, and was set on fire so only the exterior walls remained. Architects Ripley and Reynolds designed the new floor plan, which still exists today. The new design included a rotunda and double staircase, along with steel beams to reinforce the structure. A new wing was completed in 1944, and a second story was added to the new wing in 1949. The interior of the building was completely refurbished in 1965, and in 1972, Ali‘iōlani Hale was placed on the National Register of Historic Places. A new series of renovations and restoration began in 1978. Today Ali‘iōlani Hale includes the King Kamehameha V—Judiciary History Center of Hawai‘i, founded in 1989. The Judiciary History Center provides educational exhibits, and includes the Center Theater, which presents two multi-media shows, Law of the Land, and Kānāwai, that discuss how today’s law evolved in the Hawaiian Islands. TheMonarchy Courts Gallery provides information about Hawai‘i’s judicial processes in the 19th century (and earlier), and the 1913 Court Room displays a complete courtroom from that era. The Temporary Exhibit Room features educational exhibits such as Hawai‘i Under Martial Law: 1941-1944,with artifacts and displays that give the visitor a unique understanding of the topics. In front of Ali‘iōlani Hale is a statue of King Kamehameha I (see below). Statue of King Kamehameha I Location: 417 South King Street—in front of Ali‘iōlani Hale. ‘Oni kalalea ke ku a ka lā‘au loa. A tall tree stands above the others. Said of a person of outstanding achievements. (Pukui: 2520-275) [Photograph: King Kamehameha I with Ali‘iōlani Hale in background] Now an O‘ahu landmark, the statue of King Kamehameha I was unveiled in 1883 in front of Ali‘iōlani Hale, the judiciary building opposite ‘Iolani Palace. The King Kamehameha I statue was unveiled as part of King Kalākaua’s coronation ceremony at ‘Iolani Palace. The former king, also known as Kamehameha the Great, remains the most renowned and revered warrior and ruler of the Hawaiian Islands. King Kamehameha was responsible for uniting the Hawaiian Islands under one rule and establishing the Kingdom of Hawai‘i, which lasted until the overthrow of the monarchy in 1893. A royal proclamation in 1872 began the recognition of what was then known as Commemoration Day but is now known as King Kamehameha Day, which is celebrated every June 11. On this date the King Kamehameha I statue is draped with many different types of lei, some more than 26 feet (8 m) long. The statue of King Kamehameha I in front of Ali‘iōlani Hale is a replica of the original 9-ton (8-mton) statue cast by American sculptor Thomas Gould in Italy in 1883 (based on an early engraving). That statue was lost in transport to the Hawaiian Islands, but later found in the Falkland Islands soon after the duplicate statue arrived in Honolulu. The original statue is now on Hawai‘i Island where it stands in front of the North Kohala Civic Center in Kapa‘au, near to where the future ruler of the Hawaiian Kingdom was born. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1753.) The King Kamehameha I statue is about 8½ feet (2.6 m) tall, showing the warrior king holding an ihe (spear), and wearing a mahiole (feather-crested helmet). He is also wearing an ‘ahu ‘ula (royal feather cloak) a malo (loin cloth), and kāma‘a‘ie (braided sandals). The statue is said to represent King Kamehameha I at the age of about 45. Washington Place—The Governor’s Residence Location: 20 South Beretania Street / Phone: 808-586-0157 Open to the public on special occasions / www.firstlady.state.hi.us/washingtonplace.htm. [Photograph: Washington Place] Washington Place is a two-story home built in the Colonial Greek Revival style by sea captain and merchant John Dominis, the husband of Mary Dominis and the father-in-law of Queen Lili‘uokalani. The home was completed in 1847 after five years of construction. John Dominis was a wealthy New England trader. In 1846, he sailed for China where he intended to purchase elegant furnishing for Washington Place. Unfortunately he never returned, apparently lost at sea. The residence was named Washington Place by King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli), who was impressed by the stories he had heard about George Washington from the American ambassador to the Hawaiian Islands, who rented a room in the home from Mrs. Dominis. The widow Dominis was often seen gardening on the grounds. The son of Mr. and Mrs. Dominis, John Owen Dominis, married Princess Lili‘uokalani in 1862, and they inherited Washington Place. Queen Lili‘uokalani lived in Washington Place for 55 years, including when she was heir to the throne, as well as after she was deposed. Queen Lili‘uokalani was confined to Washington Place after she was released from her imprisonment in ‘Iolani Palace on September 6, 1895. She remained confined to Washington Place until February 6, 1896, and was then island-restricted until October 6, 1896. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1895, Jan. 6.) The queen lived at Washington Place until she died in the home’s downstairs bedroom in 1917. In 1921, due to the political efforts of Prince Kūhiō, the Territory of Hawai’i purchased the stately Washington Place so it could be used as a governor’s mansion. Twelve different governors of the State of Hawai‘i, and their families, have lived in Washington Place since 1922 (the last was the Cayetano family). Renovations to Washington Place took place in 1922, 1929, and 1953, and in 1973 the building was placed on the National Register of Historic Places. The historic home still contains many of Queen Lili‘uokalani’s prized possessions, including fine furniture and Ni‘ihau shell lei. Also on display are musical instruments belonging to the queen, including a grand piano made of koa wood. The sidewalk to the left of Washington Place displays a plaque with the words Aloha ‘Oe, the name of a well-loved song written by Queen Lili‘uokalani. Private fundraising efforts led by the Washington Place Foundation raised more than $1 million to build a new governor’s residence. The 5,000-square-foot (465-sq-m) structure was built on an acre of land directly behind Washington Place, where the service quarters were formerly located. Washington Place is now a Museum with historical exhibits primarily dedicated to telling the story of Queen Lili‘uokalani. The museum, known as a historic interpretive center, includes displays of the Queen’s personal effects as well as important personal papers and historical documents. Washington Place also continues to be used as a public reception area. Bust of Queen Emma Location: Adjacent to Washington Place, in front of St. Andrew’s Priory School for Girls. Queen Emma (1836-1885) was the great-granddaughter of the brother of King Kamehameha I and queen as wife of King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani), who she married in 1856. Also given the name Kalanikaumakeamano, Emma Na‘ea Rooke was the daughter of Fanny Kakelaokalani Young and George Na‘ea. She was adopted by her maternal aunt, Grace Kamaikui Young Rooke and Grace’s husband, Dr. Thomas Charles Byde Rooke. Queen Emma and King Kamehameha IV gave birth to Prince Albert, who died in 1862 at age four. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1836 for Biographical Sketch of Queen Emma.) State Capitol Building Location: 415 South Beretania Street (at Richards Street / Phone: 808-586-0178 Public tours by appointment. Open Mon.-Fri., 7:45-4:30. [Photograph: State Capitol] The State Capitol is supported by tall columns and has an open central court area and volcano-shaped Legislative chambers. The whole complex is encircled by large reflecting pools that are symbolic of the ocean surrounding the Hawaiian Islands. The sloped walls of the Legislative chambers are symbolic of volcanoes of the Hawaiian Islands. A major renovation of the State Capitol was completed in 1997. The public may walk through the open-air rotunda area with a view into the Legislative chambers. In front of the State Capitol is a statue of Father Damien (see below), as well as a replica of the Liberty Bell, which was presented to the Hawaiian government by the United States Treasury Department on July 4, 1950. Just across the street is an eternal flame that burns as part of a palm-lined Memorial to the men and women who served in the United States Armed Forces. Statue of Queen Lili‘uokalani Location: South Beretania Street side of the State Capitol, facing Washington Place. ‘Onipa‘a. Stand firm. Motto of Lili‘uokalani. (Pukui: 2521-275) [Photograph: Statue of Queen Lili‘uokalani] Between ‘Iolani Palace and the State Capitol is a bronze statue of Queen Lili‘uokalani, the last queen of the Hawaiian Islands. Marianna Pineda sculpted the statue in 1982. The statue faces Queen Lili‘uokalani’s former home, Washington Place. Queen Lili‘uokalani’s reign lasted from January 29, 1891 to January 17, 1893, when the monarchy was overthrown and a Provisional Government was declared (see Chapter 11, Timeline: 1893, Jan. 14). Queen Lili‘uokalani spent the rest of her life working toward the good of the Hawaiian people. She made numerous trips to Washington D.C. to appeal for a settlement of the disputed crown lands and fair treatment for “her people,” the native Hawaiians. The statue of the queen, who was the last monarch of the Hawaiian Islands, shows her holding the Kumulipo (Hawaiian creation chant) and Aloha ‘Oe, a favorite song she wrote. The statue also holds the constitution that Queen Lili‘uokalani wrote in 1893, which resulted in the events that led to the overthrow of the monarchy. Statue of Father Damien Location: In front of the State Capitol Building, facing Beretania Street. [Photograph: Statue of Father Damien] Father Damien is renown for ministering to victims of Hansen’s Disease (leprosy) at the Moloka‘i colony. Sculpted by Marisol Escobar of Venezuela in 1969, the statue of Father Damien in front of the State Capitol shows him as he appeared after being ravaged by the disease. The statue of Father Damien, known as the “martyr of Moloka‘i” stands as a reminder of selflessness and good will toward others. A servant to those in need, Father Damien was beatified by Pope John Paul II on June 4, 1995 in Brussels,Belgium. (For more information about Father Damien, see Damien Museum (below); Moloka‘i section; and Chapter 11, Chapter 11, Timeline: 1865; 1873; 1889; 1969; 1995.) Bishop Street Bishop Street is the hub of banking and other major businesses in the Hawaiian Islands. This is particularly significant given that Honolulu is also considered the financial center of the Pacific. Bishop Street is named after Charles Reed Bishop (1822-1915), a prominent banker and public official, and the husband of Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop (1831-1844), a Hawaiian princess and the granddaughter of King Kamehameha I. In 1858, Charles Reed Bishop founded the firm Aldrich & Bishop, later called Bank of Bishop & Co. Ltd., and today known as the First Hawaiian Bank. He also founded the Bishop Museum in 1889 in honor of his wife, Princess Pauahi, whose will endowed Kamehameha Schools to educate children of Hawaiian blood. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1887; 1894.) Today the Bishop Estate, officially renamed Kamehameha Schools, continues to operate Kamehameha Schools, including the 600-acre (243-ha) Kapālama campus in Honolulu as well as smaller campuses on Maui and Hawai‘i Island. The Estate has vast land holdings and investments worth nearly $7 billion, and educates more than 51,000 students annually on three campuses as well as through charter schools, community outreach programs, and in 28 preschools. Mission Houses Museum—Nā Hale Hō‘ike‘ike O Nā Mikanele Location: 553 S. King Street, Honolulu (across from Kawaiaha‘o Church / Phone: 808-531-0481 Open 9 to 4, Tues.—Sat. / www.lava.net/ormhm/main.htm [Photograph: Mission Houses Museum] Now known as Nā Hale Hō‘ike‘ike O Nā Mikanele (“Exhibition House of the Missionaries”), the Mission Houses Museum includes the home of the first missionaries as well as an early printing press brought by the missionaries to help spread their Christian message in the Hawaiian language. The Sandwich Islands Mission was established in 1820 by American Protestant missionaries who arrived in the Hawaiian Islands aboard the brig Thaddeus with the First Company of American missionaries (see Chapter 11, Timeline: 1820, Mar. 31). By the 1840s at least 17 mission stations were found throughout the Hawaiian Islands. The original missionary buildings in Honolulu, known as Missionary Row, were built for the missionaries by order of the King Kamehameha II (Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho). The original Hale Pule (Christian Meeting House) was built in 1821 where Kawaiaha‘o Church now sits, just across the street from the Mission Houses Museum. The Mission Houses Museum is a Registered National Historic Landmark. The three buildings still standing from the original Sandwich Islands Mission headquarters are: the Frame House (Hale Lā‘au), the Chamberlain House (Hale Kamalani), and the Printing Office (Hale Pa‘i). Across the street is a historic adobe schoolhouse that is now a Hawaiian Immersion School. Newer buildings on the Mission Houses Museum site include the Museum Shop, which offers books and crafts for sale, as well as the Tea Parlor. The Mission Houses Museum also sponsors educational classes, workshops, and instruction in researching the materials of the Hawaiian Historical Society and the Hawaiian Mission Children’s Society Library. The Frame House—Hale Lā‘au Also known as Hale Lā‘au (Lā‘au means “Wood”), the Frame House was built in 1821. The two-story prefabricated structure was brought around Cape Horn by the missionaries. The Frame House served as a residence for different missionary families as well as boarders and visitors. Missionaries that lived in the house included Hiram Bingham, Gerrit Judd, and Elisha Loomis (the printer). In 1841 a coral block structure was added. The Frame House is the oldest wood frame house in the Hawaiian Islands, and is now restored to reflect its original architecture and decor, including furnishings representing its appearance more than 180 years ago. Chamberlain House—Hale Kamalani Constructed in 1831, the Chamberlain House is built of coral blocks and was the home of the Mission’s business agent, Levi Chamberlain (1792-1849), who had arrived in the Hawaiian Islands as a lay missionary in 1823. The Chamberlain House was also was used to store the considerable amount of supplies of the mission. Levi Chamberlain later helped to found O‘ahu’s Punahou School (originally called Kapunahou), which was established in 1841 by Hiram Bingham. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1841.) The Printing Office—Hale Pa‘i Also known as Hale Pa‘i (Pa‘i means “To print”), the Printing Office was the home of the Mission Press, and is also known as the birthplace of the written Hawaiian language. The missionary’s Ramage printing press was originally installed in the nearby grass thatched Christian Meeting House (Hale Pule) until the coral stone Printing Office (Hale Pa‘i) was built in 1823. Utilizing the lead-type press and native Hawaiian assistants (nā kānaka pa‘i) such as John Papa ‘I‘i as language teachers and translators, the Printing Office produced many books, broadsides, hīmeni (hymns), newspapers, rules, primers, Bible translations, and other items published in the Hawaiian language. The Press was the first to print the Bible in the Hawaiian language. The most prominent of the early missionary printers included Elisha Loomis, Stephen Shepard, Edmund Rogers, Lemuel Fuller, and Edwin Oscar Hall. [Photograph: Hale Pa‘i (The Printing Office)] Kawaiaha‘o Church Location: Corner of South King and Punchbowl Streets / Phone: 808-522-1333 [Photograph: Kawaiaha‘o Church] The historic and still functioning Kawaiaha‘o Church is O‘ahu’s oldest church and largest church. The original church on the site was built in 1821. Known as the Christian Meeting House, or Hale Pule, (pule means “church”). The structure was framed and thatched by Hawaiians, and then the missionaries installed imported windows, doors, a pulpit, and a bell. The grass-thatched church was built to hold 300 people, and was dedicated in 1821 (see Chapter 11, Timeline: 1821, Sep. 15). On January 7, 1822 the first printing in the North Pacific region was done in this 54-foot (16-m) by 22-foot (6.7-m) building. This was the beginning of the Mission Press, which eventually printed millions of pages, many in the Hawaiian language. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1822, Jan. 7.) In 1837, construction began on a large, new church, following plans drawn by missionary Reverend Hiram Bingham. More than 1,000 people worked on the construction of Kawaiaha‘o Church, using blunt axes to cut coral reef from beneath 10 to 20 feet (3 to 6 m) of water. Approximately 14,000 coral blocks were cut from the reef for the church. Many of the blocks weighed more than 1 ton (.8 mton). Logs for the church were brought from Ko‘olau Loa in northern O‘ahu to Kāne‘ohe Bay by canoe, and then hauled over the mountain. Built in the New England style with Gothic influences, the structure was originally known as Stone Church, and was dedicated on July 21, 1842 (then named Kawaiaha‘o Church in 1862). The church’s clock tower was a gift of King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli). The clock was built in Boston and continues to keep accurate time. Kawaiaha‘o Church was later the site of many important historic events, including an 1843 service for the restoration of the monarchy. This took place after King Kamehameha III had been forced into a formal “provisional cession” of the Hawaiian Islands to Britain on February 10, 1843, by Lord George Paulet of Britain, who had arrived on the frigate Carysfort and demanded the cession under the threat of military force. King Kamehameha III acquiesced and the British flag was raised in Honolulu. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1843, Feb. 10.) On July 31, 1843, the provisional cession of the Hawaiian Islands to Britain was rescinded by Admiral Richard Thomas (1777-1851) of Britain, who had arrived in the Hawaiian Islands on July 26, 1843 on the H.M.S. flagship Dublin. The Islands were restored to Hawaiians and King Kamehameha III, and the British flag was lowered and the Hawaiian flag was raised. Later that day, King Kamehameha III gave a speech at a Kawaiaha‘o Church service, and is said to have spoken the words which later became Hawai‘i’s official state motto: “Ua mau ke ea o ka ‘āina o ka pono” (“The life of the land is perpetuated [preserved] in righteousness”). The date of July 31 was later proclaimed Restoration Day. Kawaiaha‘o Church was also the site of the 1854 coronation of King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani) as well as his wedding to Emma in 1856. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1821, Sep.15; 1843, July 31; 1872, June 11.) In 1885 a bigger bell tower was installed at the church, and electricity was installed in 1895. A complete reconstruction of all but the coral took place in 1925 due to extreme termite damage. Today Kawaiaha‘o Church still reserves pews for descendants of the Hawaiian royalty that once worshipped there. These velvet-lined pews at the rear of the church are marked with kāhili, the traditional feather standards that are symbols of Hawaiian royalty. Portraits of Hawaiian royalty and important figures associated with the church line the walls along the upper balconies of the church. The rear upper balcony is dominated by the church’s spectacular pipe organ. To the left of the front door of the church, near the original cornerstone, is a centennial memorial plaque honoring Reverend Hiram Bingham (1789-1869), one of the founders and the architect of Kawaiaha‘o Church. Bingham preached his first sermon in the Hawaiian Islands on April 25, 1820. The cornerstone of the church was laid on June 8, 1839. The 10:30 a.m. Sunday service at Kawaiaha‘o Church is said in Hawaiian as well as English, and for a small offering visitors are welcomed to a breakfast following the service. Across the street from Kawaiaha‘o Church is the Mission Houses Museum (see above), home to the first missionaries to come to the Hawaiian Islands. Located just inside the main entrance gate to Kawaiaha‘o Church is the Tomb of King Lunalilo (see below). (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1821, Sep. 15; 1837; 1843, July 31; 1872, June 11; and Mission Houses, Chapter 12.) Tomb of King Lunalilo Location: On the grounds of Kawaiaha‘o Church—South King and Punchbowl Streets. [Photograph: Tomb of King Lunalilo] The remains of King Lunalilo (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1835, Jan. 31) are housed in a substantial memorial, known as the Tomb of King Lunalilo, which is just inside the main entrance gate to Kawaiaha‘o Church. Born in 1835, King Lunalilo succeeded King Kamehameha V (Lot Kapuāiwa Kamehameha) on January 8, 1873, and then reigned until he died on February 3, 1874. Many of early missionaries in the Hawaiian Islands are buried in a cemetery behind Kawaiaha‘o Church. Honolulu Hale—City Hall Location: South King and Punchbowl Streets. [Photograph: Honolulu Hale] Construction on Honolulu Hale began in 1927, and the building opened in 1929. Honolulu Hale is comprised of pillars and arches, decorative balconies, ceiling frescoes, and a tiled roof. The building was modeled after Florence, Italy’sBargello Palace, which was built in the 13th century. Honolulu Hale was designed by architects Charles William Dickey (a famous architect of the time) along with Hart Wood and others. Inside the front door is a bell from the World War II ship U.S.S. Honolulu, with a commemorative plaque that states, “Launched August 26, 1937. Commissioned June 15, 1938.” The spacious lobby of Honolulu Hale is also the site of art exhibits and other events. The center of the building is an open-air courtyard where musical performances and other events are held. A grand double stairway at the rear of the courtyard leads a wraparound mezzanine. The structure was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1978. In front of Honolulu Hale is a small memorial burning an eternal flame in honor of the victims of the attack on the Twin Towers of the World Trade Center on September 11, 2001. The plaque is inscribed with the following words: “Let this eternal flame unite our country in memory of those who lost their lives on September 11, 2001 and honor the brave men and women who put themselves in Harm’s Way to save others. The love and spirit of our grateful nation and the hearts and prayers of our people will always be with them. Dedicated on November 11, 2001 by the people of the City and County of Honolulu.” Hawai‘i State Library Location: 478 South King Street / Phone: 808-586-3500 / Reference Services Phone: 586-3621; 1-800-390-3611. [Photograph: Hawai‘i State Library] The central branch of Hawai‘i’s statewide library system (just to the west of Honolulu Hale) is housed in a restored historic building designed by architect Henry D. Whitfield, brother-in-law of philanthropist and renowned American industrialist Andrew Carnegie, whose bust greets visitors entering the library. The building’s style is Classical Revival. The main building is four stories and rectangular in shape, with a six-story tower at the rear. The original “Reading Room” opened in 1879, and only men were allowed to check out books from the original collection of 5,000 volumes. This was sponsored by the Hawai‘i Workingmen’s Library Association, who were trying to keep rowdy seamen out of trouble. After the Hawaiian Islands were annexed to the United States, industrialist Andrew Carnegie donated $100,000 toward the construction of a library, which began in 1911 o the corner of King and Punchbowl Streets on the former site of Pohukaina School, which was relocated to Kaka‘ako. Particularly notable is the library’s entrance, consisting of 20-foot (20.1 m) high “Tuscan” columns atop a six-step riser, and 18-foot (5.5 m) arches. Two wings were designed by Charles William Dickey to expand the library, and these additions were completed in 1930, creating the open-air center courtyard. Hawai‘i’s State Library traces its roots back to the days of the monarchy, beginning with the Honolulu Library and Reading Room Association, formed in 1879. Initial collections and financial contributions came from Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop (Princess Pauahi), Queen Emma, Queen Kapi‘olani, and King Kalākaua. The Association donated 20,000 books and other resources to form the Library of Hawai‘i in 1909, which also benefited from grants provided by Hawai‘i’s Legislature and from Andrew Carnegie (who donated $100,000). Today the Hawai‘i State Library is a wonderful resource for the community and beyond. The first floor includes the Young Adults Section, containing materials suitable for teenagers, and an exemplary children’s section that fills two large rooms. It includes the Mural Room, which is wonderfully decorated with Juliette May Fraser artwork depicting ancient Hawaiian legends. Also on the first floor is the Information Desk, and the Hawai‘i & Pacific section, with a wide variety of books about the Hawaiian Islands, Australia, New Zealand, and the South Pacific. A lovely palm-edged center courtyard with three large native fan palms (loulu) in the middle provides a great place to relax and read a book. The second floor of the library is an official Federal Depository Library, containing various federal documents. The second floor also serves as the Hawaiian Islands’ only Patent and Trademark Depository Library, with CD-ROMs that may be used to conduct patent and trademark searches. A Business, Science, & Technology section is also found on the Library’s second floor, along with the Social Science & Philosophy section, the Language, Literature & History section, the Art, Music & Recreation section, and an Audiovisual section. The basement of the Hawai‘i State Library houses a Serials section with many different newspapers and magazines, as well as microfilm and computerized materials (including indexes), and periodicals in European and Asian languages. Hawai‘i State Archives—Kekāuluohi Building Location: ‘Iolani Palace Grounds, behind the Territorial Archives Building (Old Archives Building—Kana‘ina Building) / Phone: 808-586-0329. [Photograph: Hawai‘i State Archives—Kekāuluohi Building] Next door to the Hawai‘i State Library, on the ‘Iolani Palace grounds, is the Hawai‘i State Archives. The building preserves a historic collection of vintage photos (some on display) along with a multitude of government documents. The new Hawai‘i State Archives was constructed in 1953 on the grounds of ‘Iolani Palace behind the Old ArchivesBuilding (Kana‘ina Building), which was built in 1906 (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1906, Aug. 23.) The Hawai‘i State Archives allows public access to important historical documents of Hawai‘i’s past, including historical photographs and documents, private papers, records, manuscripts, maps, books, and items from various collections, including the Captain Cook Memorial Collection. The Archives also contains approximately 100,000 photographs, 1,800 maps, and 9,000 books, many of which contain past government publications. Many papers associated with the Hawaiian Kingdom (before 1893), the Republic of Hawai‘i (1893-1900), the Territorial Government (1900-1959), and the government of the State of Hawai‘i (1959-present) are found in the Archives. The records span all aspects of the government, including the Executive Branch, Legislature, and Judiciary. The Governors’ Records span from 1900 to the present and include press releases, speeches, and personal papers. Catalogs and indexes in the Reference Room include the Computerized Library Catalog, which makes it easy to locate information and photos. In 1959, when officials decide that State of Hawai‘i buildings should have Hawaiian names, the new Hawai‘i State Archives building was renamed Kekāuluohi Building after King Lunalilo’s mother, Kekāuluohi (Miriam ‘Auhea, 1794-1845), who was the mother of King Lunalilo and also kuhina nui (premier) of the Hawaiian Kingdom from 1839 to 1845 during the reign of King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli). (See Hawai‘i State Archives—Kekāuluohi Building in O‘ahusection, Chapter 2.) Territorial Archives Building (Old Archives Building)—Kana‘ina Building Location: ‘Iolani Palace Grounds, in front of Hawai‘i State Archives (Kekāuluohi Building). [Photograph: Old Archives Building] The Territorial Archives Building (Old Archives Building) opened on August 23, 1906. (Note: Hawai‘i was a Territory from 1900 to 1959.) The building was designed by architect Oliver Green Traphagen in the Renaissance Revival style and constructed at 364 King Street on the grounds of ‘Iolani Palace in downtown Honolulu, becoming the United States’ first building constructed for the sole purpose of preserving public archive materials. The Archives contents (now in the newer Hawai‘i State Archives) includes historical photographs and documents, private papers, records, manuscripts, photographs, maps, books, and items from various collections, including the Captain Cook Memorial Collection, papers associated with the Hawaiian Kingdom (before 1893), the Republic of Hawai‘i (1893-1900), the Territorial Government (1900-1959), and the government of the State of Hawai‘i (1959-present). Virtually fireproof, the Old Archives Building is primarily stucco-covered brick, and divided into two main sections with a public reading room and offices on one side and a large vault area on the other side. Additions to the building were constructed in 1929, including another vault area, a basement in the back, and a bay added to the front left side of the building. In 1949, a small addition was made to the rear of the right side wing of the building. In 1959, when officials decide that State of Hawai‘i buildings should have Hawaiian names. the Old Archives Building was renamed Kana‘ina Building after Charles Kana‘ina (c.1801-1877), the husband of Kekāuluohi (Miriam ‘Auhea, 1794-1845), and they were the parents of King Lunalilo. In 1953, the new Hawai‘i State Archives Building (see 1953) was completed, and the old Archives Building housed the State Attorney General’s office, and then later served other functions including housing the State of Hawai‘i Identification Office and the Office of Children and Youth. In 1987, the Friends of ‘Iolani Palace restored the original interior colors and design of the Old Archives Building, which still retains its domed, stained-glass skylight in the foyer as well as the original terrazzo floor. Friends of ‘IolaniPalace now uses the historical building for its education center and administrative offices. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1906, Aug. 23.) Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum The State Museum of Natural & Cultural History Location: 1525 Bernice Street, Honolulu. Phone—Visitor Services: 808-848-4160, 847-3511 Website: www.bishop.hawaii.org; bishopmuseum.org Open Daily, 9 a.m.—5 p.m. [Photograph: Bishop Museum] History and Purpose Charles Reed Bishop founded the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum in 1889 to honor his wife, Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop, a Hawaiian princess and great-granddaughter of King Kamehameha I. Princess Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop, known as Princess Pauahi, died in 1884, leaving an extensive collection of royal family heirlooms and historic artifacts of the Kamehameha era. Bishop Museum was founded to preserve and showcase the possessions of Princess Pauahi, as well as items from the estate of the late Queen Emma (1836-1885) and from the estate of the late Princess Ruth Ke‘elikōlani (1826-1883). An expressed goal of Charles Reed Bishop in founding the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum was to provide enjoyment and education for the Hawaiian people. The Hawaiian name of Bishop Museum, Hale-hō‘ike‘ike-o-Kamehameha, means “Exhibition house of Kamehameha.” The artifacts and other items that make up the substantial collection of Bishop Museum have come from many sources. A significant early contribution came from Hawai‘i’s National Museum, which was originally housed on the second floor of Ali‘iōlani Hale, a judiciary building in downtown Honolulu where Hawai‘i’s Supreme Court meets (seeAli‘iōlani Hale above). The National Museum had its beginning in 1854 when Hawai‘i’s Legislature appropriated $1000 to procure Hawaiian artifacts. The growth of a museum collection was further encouraged by the desire of King Kamehameha V (Lot Kapuāiwa Kamehameha) that the Hawaiian Islands should participate in the 1867 Exposition Universalle in Paris, France. King Kamehameha V had been impressed by collections he had seen in France in 1850, and he helped secure the collection of many items that were sent to Paris along with artifacts belonging to Queen Emma. In 1872, the Legislature authorized the Board of Education, and its Chairman of the Board, Charles Reed Bishop, to establish the “National Museum of Archaeology, Literature, Botany, Geology and Natural History of the Hawaiian Islands.” Charles Reed Bishop was the museum’s first supervisor. The National Museum was established in Ali‘iōlani Hale on September 9, 1874, and opened on November 8, 1875. The Museum’s collection included the items mentioned above as well as many artifacts donated by Hawaiian royalty. Other artifacts were purchased from the estate of Kana‘ina (the father of King Lunalilo), and from the collection of Samuel and Mercy Whitney. The Whitneys were missionaries that had acquired many items during their 50 years in the Hawaiian Islands. In addition, many botanical and geological specimens were gathered by scientists. In 1890, the National Museum’s collection was loaned to Charles Reed Bishop (who had founded Bishop Museum in 1889) with the stipulation that the collection must be returned if requested by the King’s Cabinet. However, in 1893 the Hawaiian monarchy was overthrown, and when the Hawaiian Islands was annexed to the United States in 1898, the ownership of the National Museum collection was formally transferred to the Bishop Museum. Bishop Museum was built on the site of the Kamehameha School for Boys, which was established in 1887 under the terms of Princess Pauahi’s will to provide educational resources for children in the Hawaiian Islands. The first buildings of Bishop Museum were Polynesian Hall and Hawaiian Hall. The cut and dressed volcanic stones used for the construction were quarried from the site, and the first Bishop Museum buildings were some of the earliest structures to be built of such materials. The Kamehameha School for Boys moved to a new location in the 1960s, and this new campus is visible by looking upslope from the Museum. When the school moved, the Bishop Museum was able to construct more buildings, and Bishop Hall (which was part of the original school), became part of the museum (though it’s not currently open to the public). Lawe i ka ma‘alea a kū‘ono‘ono. Take wisdom and make it deep. (Pukui: 1957-211) Bishop Museum Today—An Overview Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum is now the world’s most prominent museum of Polynesian culture and anthropology. As a non-profit organization, the Bishop Museum is associated with a whole array of scientific and cultural endeavors that share the common goal of investigating, preserving and sharing the rich historical legacy and cultural heritage of Hawaiians and other Pacific cultures. Bishop Museum displays its monumental collection in exhibits at various locations (see below). The preservation of fragile ancient Hawaiian artifacts is a top priority, and some items are only displayed occasionally. Research and education efforts sponsored by Bishop Museum continue to produce a variety of programs at many sites throughout the Hawaiian Islands. Staff associated with the Museum also publish important research about the cultural history and natural resources of the Hawaiian Islands, including research that helps in the ongoing efforts to preserve endangered Hawaiian species and the cultural heritage of the native Hawaiian people. Bishop Museum’s Hawaiian and Pacific Studies Department researches and preserves historical materials and information about the Hawaiian Islands and other Pacific cultures, while the Pacific Biological Survey studies the species of the Pacific Basin. The Pacific Center for Molecular Biodiversity uses DNA analysis techniques to investigate plant origins, speciation, and dating of cultural artifacts, and also conducts scientific research relating to modern agricultural issues. Other Pacific region initiatives developed at the Bishop Museum include: the Pacific Earth Science Center, which is dedicated to research and education related to Pacific region Earth Sciences such as marine geology and volcanology; and the Center for Hawaiian and Pacific Cultural Studies, which is concerned with the heritage of cultures of the Pacific region. The Museum Library and Archives contains an extensive collection of historical materials (more than one million items), while the Bishop Museum Press continues to produce quality publications relating to the Hawaiian Islands and the Pacific region. Other facilities sponsored by Bishop Museum include the Hawai‘i Maritime Center in Honolulu; the Amy B. H. Greenwell Ethnobotanical Garden on the island of Hawai‘i; and the Bishop Museum at Kālia, locatedin Waikīkī’s Hilton Hawaiian Village Hotel, with exhibits of ancient artifacts and interactive educational programs (see below). Overall, the sheer quantity of objects possessed by Bishop Museum is astounding, exceeding 24.7 million items. This world-renown collection is comprised of about 2.4 million cultural artifacts and about 21 million specimens of plants, animals and insects, including 13 million insects, more than 6 million zoology specimens, and more than 400,000 botany specimens. Visiting the Bishop Museum The main buildings of the Bishop Museum are Hawaiian Hall and Polynesian Hall, which are both entered through the Vestibule Gallery. Straight ahead from the entrance are stairs leading to the upper floors of Polynesian Hall, where a plaque above the door states, “To the Memory of Bernice Pauahi Bishop, Founder of Kamehameha Schools. A bright light among her people, her usefulness survives her earthly life.” Vestibule Gallery Upon entering the Vestibule Gallery, directly to the left is the Kāhili Room (see below). Directly to the right is Prince Kūhiō’s Royal Racing Canoe, beyond which is the entrance to Hawaiian Hall. Prince Kūhiō commissioned Henry Weeks Jr., a Kona cabinetmaker, to build the 42-foot (12.8-m) racing canoe in 1902. Known as the ‘Ā, the six-man racing canoe was praised for its design as well as the crews that placed it first in many competitions from 1906 to 1910. The Prince’s widow, Princess Elizabeth Kalaniana‘ole, donated the canoe to the Bishop Museum in 1923. Fully restored in 1952, the canoe was instrumental in the founding of O‘ahu’s Lanikai Canoe Club. Kāhili Room The Kāhili Room contains a rich display of royal standards, or kāhili, consisting of feather clusters attached to long poles. In ancient Hawai‘i, kāhili were symbols of chiefly rank, and continued to be used throughout the period of the Hawaiian monarchy. Lele kāhili, holo ka uha‘i, uhi kapa. Kāhili sway, the door covering is closed, the tapa is drawn up. The chief sleeps. (Pukui: 1977-213) Bishop Museum has the world’s largest collection of kāhili, including at least 75 kāhili kū (tall kāhili) as well as 175 kāhili pa‘alima (hand-held, or waving kāhili). Many of these historic artifacts are on display in the Kāhili Room. Also on display in the Kāhili Room are numerous portraits of Hawaiian monarchs.
Hawaiian Hall
[Photograph: Interior of Hawaiian Hall] Hawaiian Hall is a large rectangular room with an interior space that is open to the three stories high, with many exhibits on display on the first floor as well as on the second and third story balconies on all four sides of the room. The first floor of Hawaiian Hall contains a full-size hale pili, which is a traditional Hawaiian house thatched with pili grass (Heteropogon contortus, twisted beardgrass). There is also a model of a heiau (traditional Hawaiian sacred place of worship). A stage in the center of the room is where educational Hawaiian shows are performed. Various exhibits around the perimeter of the first floor include Hawaiian featherwork, calabashes, ancient weapons and an exhibit on traditional hygiene (including a kilo pōhaku, or stone mirror) among other displays. The second floor of Hawaiian Hall contain exhibits of kapa (tapa) barkcloth, displays on adze production, and numerous items of Hawaiian featherwork, including mahiole (feather crested helmets), ‘ahu ‘ula (feather capes and cloaks), feather lei, and other adornments. Also on display are quilts from the post-contact period. An exhibit on whaling includes many historic maritime items as well as lei niho palaoa, the prized necklaces made from the teeth of the palaoa (Physeter macrocephalus, sperm whale). Also on the second floor is a portrait of Sanford B. Dole with the caption, “The Grand Old Man of Hawai‘i.” Recognizable by his bushy gray beard, Sanford B. Dole was the first President of the Provisional Government after the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy, then President of the Republic of Hawai‘i from 1895 to 1898, and then the first governor of the Territory of Hawai‘i from 1898 to 1903. The third floor of Hawaiian Hall presents traditional Hawaiian musical instruments as well as historic artifacts relating to the mixed Hawaiian heritage of immigrants from China, Okinawa, Korea, Japan, the Philippines, Puerto Rico, Portugal, Spain, and Germany. Also found on the third floor is information about the skeleton of the sperm whale that hangs from the ceiling of Hawaiian Hall. This sperm whale skeleton measures 55 feet, 7 inches long (17 m), and weighs more than 4,300 pounds (1,950 kg). When it was alive, the whale weighed an estimated 50 tons (45 mtons). The sperm whale skeleton exhibit, when it was completed in 1902, may have been the world’s first full-size whale exhibit. The enormous skeleton of the whale is fully visible from one side, while the other side shows the full body of the whale that has been recreated using papier mâché. Polynesian Hall [Photograph: Polynesian Hall] The second and third floors of Polynesian Hall are dedicated to “Peoples of the Pacific,” with exhibits, artifacts, and information about the many different cultures of Polynesia, Micronesia and Melanesia. Photographs, masks, clothing items, and hundreds of other ancient artifacts provide a glimpse into the rich history and culture of such regions as Fiji, Tonga, Samoa, New Zealand, the Solomon Islands, the Marshall Islands, and Papua New Guinea. Hall of Hawaiian Natural History [Photograph: Hall of Hawaiian Natural History] On the second floor between Polynesian Hall and Hawaiian Hall is the Hall of Hawaiian Natural History, with exhibits explaining the volcanic origins of the Hawaiian Islands. Informative displays explain the geology of volcanoes, including the processes that built the Islands. There are also exhibits and information about the insects, birds, and plants, as well as the evolutionary processes that created the diverse flora and fauna found throughout the Hawaiian Islands. E kuhikuhi pono i na au iki a me na au nui o ka ‘ike. Instruct well in the little and the large currents of knowledge. In teaching, do it well; the small details are as important as the large ones. (Pukui: 325-40) Other Museum Areas The Bishop Museum Planetarium features multi-media shows exploring topics related to astronomy, celestial navigation, and the telescopes atop Mauna Kea. Information on the current night sky may be seen atwww.bishopmuseum.org/bishop/planet.sky.html, or call the Planetarium Recording at 808-848-4136. The Hall of Discovery provides hands-on learning opportunities for children as well as Hawaiian quilting displays and lessons. The Cooke Rotunda-Explorers Center holds items relating to the ocean voyages of the Polynesians who discovered the Hawaiian Islands. Also featured are interactive displays on science and space. Atherton Hālau and Canoe Hale was built to provide an area for the construction of the Hawai‘iloa, a traditional Polynesian Voyaging Canoe that is now moored in Honolulu Harbor when it isn’t sailing (see Hōkūle‘a and Hawai‘iloa Voyaging Canoes, Chapter 3). The Hālau is often used for hula performances, and for the making of Hawaiian crafts, quilts, and lei. Castle Hall opened in 1984, and displays special exhibits, often on topics not related to the Hawaiian Islands and Polynesia. Past exhibits have included; animated robots; a 45-foot (13.7-m) long, life-sized cast of the most completeTyrannosaurus rex fossil ever discovered; science exhibits developed in partnership with the National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA); and a genetics and DNA exhibit sponsored by the Pacific Science Center (Oct. 2002—Jan. 2003). From February to April in 2004, an exhibit about the Titanic disaster will be featured. Developed by the Maryland Science Center in Baltimore, the traveling exhibit includes artifacts from the ship as well as opportunities for interactive science and technology experiences related to the Titanic. Hawaiian Courtyard Located between Hawaiian Hall and Pākī Hall is the Hawaiian Courtyard. Developed in 1954, the Courtyard includes many well-labeled native and Polynesian-introduced plants intermingled with historic stone artifacts, such as a shaped image of a shark god that was originally in front of Mo‘okini Heiau at ‘Umiwai on the island of Hawai‘i. Another hidden treasure in the Hawaiian Courtyard is a large papa kōnane, a stone with indentations in it that were used to play the checker-like, traditional Hawaiian game called kōnane. Sports Hall of Fame Bishop Museum’s Sports Hall of Fame is in the center hallway of Pākī Hall, which also houses the Museum Library and Archives (see below). Exhibits lining the hallway of the Sports Hall of Fame highlight the careers and lives of many past sports heroes of the Hawaiian Islands, including the legendary Hawaiian swimmer and waterman Duke Kahanamoku, who won six Olympic medals. Duke Kahanamoku was known as Hawai‘i’s “Ambassador of Aloha.” (See Duke Kahanamoku, Chapter 3.) Another famous surfer in the Sports Hall of Fame is Rell Kapoiloka‘ehukai Sunn (1950-1998), an outstanding waterwoman, pioneer woman surfer, hula dancer, canoe racer, and mentor for many others. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1998.) Rell Kapoiloka‘ehukai Sunn was the first female lifeguard in the Hawaiian Islands, and like Duke Kahanamoku, she was also a community leader, and a well-respected and loved Hawaiian “ambassador of aloha.” The Sports Hall of Fame also displays many photographs, medals, and memorabilia of other sports heroes of Hawai‘i’s past, including football players, boxers, golfers and other star athletes. Famous broadcasters and sports promoters of Hawai‘i’s past are also featured. Bishop Museum Library and Archives Location: Pākī Hall, directly behind Hawaiian Hall. Phone: Library: 808-848-4148 / Archives: 808-848-4182 The Bishop Museum Library and Archives contain more than 115,000 historical documents and publications along with an extensive collection of manuscripts (personal papers and other unpublished materials), audio recordings (including oral histories), photographs, artistic works, films, movie images, maps, and other important historical items relating to the Hawaiian Islands and the Pacific. In all, the collection totals more than one million items. Ka waihona o ka na‘auao. The repository of learning. Said in admiration of a learned person. (Pukui: 1650-178) The Museum Library and Archives maintains various indexes available for online public access. These include the Mele (Chant & Song) Index and the Genealogy Collection. The extensive photograph collection of Bishop Museum contains more than one million images, and these too may be accessed by the public for research purposes. This may be done in the Ray Jerome Baker Room, which is named after a generous benefactor. Hale Kā‘eo & Hawaiian Science Garden [Photograph: Hale Kā‘eo & Hawaiian Science Garden] Bishop Museum’s Hale Kā‘eo & Science Garden is designed to simulate the traditional Hawaiian ahupua‘a, a wedge-shaped region of land formed naturally by mountain ridges and river valleys, and extending from the mountaintop to the seashore. Native and Polynesian-introduced plants that had traditional and medicinal uses in ancient Hawai‘i are cultivated in the Science Garden. Markers display the Hawaiian name of each plant along with its scientific and common names. Plants growing in the Science Garden include the native sedge ‘ahu‘awa (Cyperus javanicus), which was used to strain many medicinal and ceremonial preparations, including a drink made from the Polynesian-introduced ‘awa (Piper methysticum, kava). Also growing in the Garden is the rare, endemic water fern, ‘ihi‘ihi (Marsilea villosa), which looks somewhat like a four-leaf clover, and is unique among ferns in that it evolved to survive in areas where conditions alternate between floods and droughts. A stand of pili grass (Heteropogon contortus, twisted beardgrass) allows the visitor to see the grass that was traditionally used to thatch houses in ancient Hawai‘i. The indigenous ‘uhaloa (Waltheria indica) is the same species that was used to strain many medicinal preparations in ancient Hawai‘i. Also growing in the Science Garden is makaloa(Cyperus laevigatus), which Hawaiians used to make the finest sleeping mats in all of ancient Polynesia. A small, irrigated lo‘i kalo (taro patch) provides a close-up look at the heart-shaped leaves of the Polynesian-introduced kalo (Colocasia esculenta, taro). The underground tubers of taro are used to make poi, a staple food of ancient Hawai‘i. Various other native and Polynesian-introduced plants are found in the Hale Kā‘eo & Science Garden, including ma‘o (Gossypium sandvicense, Hawaiian cotton); the indigenous fern kupukupu (Nephrolepis cordifolia); and the endemic kulu‘ī (Nototrichium sandwicense). Bishop Museum staff provide educational talks about the traditional Hawaiian uses of the plants. (See Native and Polynesian-Introduced Plants sections, Chapters 8 and 9, for more information about the plants mentioned above.) Bishop Museum Press The Bishop Museum Press was founded in 1892, and today maintains its uninterrupted record of producing quality publications. Known as Hawai‘i’s oldest continuous publisher, Bishop Museum Press prints a wide array of books relating to the cultural and natural history of the Hawaiian Islands and other Pacific cultures. Scholars associated with the Bishop Museum include prominent geologists, biologists, anthropologists and others who have published hundreds of academic studies relating to the Hawaiian Islands and the Pacific region. Other Bishop Museum Sites Also affiliated with Bishop Museum is the Hawai‘i Maritime Center in Honolulu, and docked there, the shipFalls of Clyde as well as the Hawai‘iloa and Hōkūle‘a Voyaging Canoes (when they are not away on voyages or undergoing repairs). Other Bishop Museum sites include the Bishop Museum at Kālia in Waikīkī’s Hilton Hawaiian Village Hotel and the Amy B. H. Greenwell Ethnobotanical Garden on the island of Hawai‘i. These locations are described below. Hawai‘i Maritime Center Location: Pier 7, Honolulu Harbor / Phone: 808-535-6373 / Open 8:30-8 daily The Hawai‘i Maritime Center is located at Pier 7 in Honolulu Harbor in the King Kalākaua Boathouse Museum. The Hawai‘i Maritime Center contains a wealth of information and exhibits on everything from canoe racing and surfing to the whaling era, including a complete skeleton of a koholā (Megaptera novaeangliae, humpback whale). Information is presented on many significant events associated with the maritime history of the Hawaiian Islands. Docked next to the Boathouse is the 266-foot (81-m) Falls of Clyde, as well as the Hokule‘a Voyaging Canoe andHawai‘iloa Voyaging Canoe, when the sailing vessels are not away on journeys. Educational talks include information about the voyaging canoes and the renaissance of Hawaiian long-distance ocean voyaging (see below).
King Kalākaua Boathouse Museum
[Photograph: Hawai‘i Maritime Center (King Kalākaua Boathouse Museum) also showing Falls of Clyde and voyaging canoe(s).] The King Kalākaua Boathouse Museum is named after the old Kalākaua Boathouse, which stood about two blocks away from the present site one century ago. The first floor of the Museum has exhibits on surfing, windsurfing, and Hawaiian voyaging canoes. Also on display are ancient Hawaiian artifacts, the Makahū‘ena Point Light from Kaua‘i, and an exhibit entitled “Na La‘au Lapa‘au O Ke Kai—Medicines From the Sea.” Books for sale include many titles related to the maritime history of the Hawaiian Islands. Second floor exhibits include a display on seaplanes, the Transpacific Yacht Race, undersea communication, disasters at sea, Pearl Harbor, Matson Liners, the Whaling era, the old Honolulu Fort, early Hawaiian naval history, Captain Cook, and Honolulu Harbor. There is also an exhibit of scrimshawed panbone, the jawbone of the palaoa(Physeter macrocephalus, sperm whale), and an informational display about the humpback whale skeleton that is suspended from the atrium of the Boathouse. The skeleton comes from a humpback whale that was discovered dead in a cave in 1986, on Kaho‘olawe’s northwest shore. The whale was subsequently recovered by volunteers, and the whale’s skeleton was reassembled in 1991. A contest among schoolchildren resulted in the name “Leiiwi” (lei of cherished bones) being chosen for the whale. The whale skeleton measures about 38 feet (11.6 m) with a skull that measures nearly 12 feet (3.7 m). Falls of Clyde The Falls of Clyde is the world’s last remaining full-rigged, four-masted ship. Constructed in 1878 by Russell & Company of Port Glasgow, Scotland, the wrought iron Falls of Clyde has a length of 266 feet (81 m) on its deck, and a breadth of 40 feet (12 m). The ship also has a mast height of 138 feet (42 m), and a net tonnage of 1,740 tons (1,579 mtons). Named after the waterfalls on the river Clyde, the Falls of Clyde was the first of nine vessels of the Falls Line built by Russell & Company. Matson Navigation purchased the Falls of Clyde for $25,000 in 1899 after the ship had already completed 20 years of service in ports around the world. A deck house, chart house, and after quarters for paying customers were added to the ship, and then from 1899 to 1907 the Falls of Clyde was used to transport sugar and people between the ports of San Francisco and Hilo on Hawai‘i Island, a trip that took about 17 days. The Falls of Clyde was the first four-masted ship to fly the Hawaiian flag. In 1907 the Falls of Clyde was sold to the Associated Oil Company, and used to carry petroleum from Gaviota, California to Honolulu. On the return trip the ship carried loads of molasses, a sugarcane derivative, which was used for cattle feed. The Falls of Clyde is the world’s only extant sail-driven oil tanker. Ten tanks built into the ship’s hull carried three quarters of a million gallons. In 1922 the ship’s masts were removed and she was stripped down and used as a barge. Towed to Ketchikan, Alaska, the ship was ingloriously used by the General Petroleum Company as a fuel depot to supply the local fishing fleet. More than thirty years later the Falls of Clyde was purchased by a private owner and towed to Seattle, Washington. In 1963, just days away from being sunk to provide a breakwater for a British Columbia logging operation, theFalls of Clyde was rescued with funds raised by a Hawaiian group seeking to save the ship from a watery grave. The Bishop Museum then assisted in returning the ship to the Hawaiian Islands and restoring it. Registered as a National Historic Landmark in 1973, the Falls of Clyde was the largest ship ever employed by the Hawaiian Islands’ burgeoning sugar industry. Hōkūle‘a and Hawai‘iloa Voyaging Canoes [Photographs: Hōkūle‘a and Hawai‘iloa Voyaging Canoes] Docked next to the Hawai‘i Maritime Museum at various times (when not away on voyages or being repaired) are the Hōkūle‘a and Hawai‘iloa Voyaging Canoes. Staff at the Museum provide educational talks about the voyaging canoes, sometimes allowing the public onboard the vessels. Some museum staff members were also actual members of the crews that completed open ocean voyages on the sailing vessels. The Hōkūle‘a Voyaging Canoe has two 62-foot (18.9-meter) long hulls (kuamo‘o), and was built in the 1970s to demonstrate that migrating Polynesians were able to sail east against the prevailing winds to reach the Hawaiian Islands. The Hōkūle‘a was launched on March 8, 1975, and completed its first voyage, to Tahiti, in 1976. When Nainoa Thompson led the crew that sailed the Hōkūle‘a to Tahiti and back in 1980, he became the first Hawaiian to navigate a voyaging canoe in more than 600 years. Many more Hōkūle‘a voyages have now been completed, totaling well over 100,000 miles (161,000 km). The Hōkūle‘a recently underwent a complete restoration, which finished in January of 2003 after nearly a year of work. The restoration included replacing the approximately 5 miles (8 km) of ropes and cordage holding the canoe together. The Hawai‘iloa voyaging canoe is 57 feet (17.4 m) long, and is the first of the voyaging canoes to be built almost entirely out of traditional materials, unlike the Hōkūle‘a voyaging canoe, which was built to be as performance accurate as ancient Hawaiian voyaging canoes, but was built with modern materials. The Hawai‘iloa voyaging canoe was launched in 1993, then modified and launched again in 1994, making its first voyage in 1995. With no navigational instruments, the crew sailed the boat more than 6,000 miles (9,660 km), from the Hawaiian Islands to Tahiti and the Marquesas, and then back to the Hawaiian Islands. The crews of the Hōkūle‘a and Hawai‘iloa recovered the art of non-instrument wayfinding and celestial navigation that was used by ancient Polynesian voyagers. The voyagers used many natural clues as aids to navigation, including the positions and movements of the sun, moon, stars and constellations, as well as prevailing winds and seas. Hōkūle‘a, the star that Westerners call Arcturus, was important to ancient navigators sailing to the Hawaiian Islands from the Marquesas or Tahiti because it helped them determine how far north to sail. They knew that at the latitude of the island of Hawai‘i the star Hōkūle‘a would be directly overhead (a zenith star). At the high point of its nightly arc across the sky, Hōkūle‘a points the way to the Hawaiian Islands. Hōkū means “Star,” and le‘a means “happiness, or joy.” Many other navigational clues were used by the ancient Polynesian voyagers, and by the crews that have now sailed the Hōkūle‘a and Hawai‘iloa Voyaging Canoes on many long journeys. (See First Polynesians—First Hawaiians,Chapter 3; and Rediscovering the Past: The Hōkūle‘a and Hawai‘iloa Voyaging Canoes, Chapter 3.) Bishop Museum at Kālia (in Waikīkī) Location: Kālia Tower—Hilton Hawaiian Village Hotel. This 8,560-square-foot (795-sq.m) facility contains hundreds of artifacts from the Bishop Museum collection as well as interactive educational activities. On display is kapa (tapa) barkcloth, surfboards, wooden bowls, stone tools, Hawaiian featherwork items, and personal effects of monarchs of the Hawaiian Islands. Gardens surrounding the Bishop Museum at Kālia display native trees and plants, with markers that have the plants’ Hawaiian and scientific names. Cultural interpreters assist visitors in learning about traditional uses of native plants and Hawaiian crafts. They also share the ancient legends and stories of Polynesian migrations in ancient voyaging canoes and how celestial navigation was used to reach the Hawaiian Islands. The Kālia area was the childhood home famous Hawaiian waterman and Olympic gold medallist Duke Kahanamoku. An exhibit at the Museum provides information about the famous swimmer, and one of Duke’s surfboards is on display. The Bishop Museum at Kālia also includes a wonderful display of traditional native Hawaiian musical instruments including a nī‘au kani (mouth harp), hōkiokio (gourd whistle), kūpe‘e niho ‘īlio (dog-tooth anklets), ‘ulī‘ūlī (gourd rattle with seeds), ‘ohe hano ihu (bamboo nose flute), pū‘ili (bamboo rattles), lā‘au ho‘okani pahu (drumming sticks), pū‘ili (bamboo rattle), and other instruments. The Bishop Museum at Kālia also includes post-contact Hawaiian displays, including beautiful quilts, furniture, old postcards, and a photo display of historic Waikīkī. Also offered through the Bishop Museum at Kālia are Waikīkī walking tours led by a Trail Historian. (See www.waikikihistorictrail.com for schedule.) [Bishop Museum at Kālia, 808—949-4321. open 9-9 daily, Kālia Tower at Hilton Hawaiian Village, Waikīkī.] Amy B. H. Greenwell Ethnobotanical Garden (Hawai‘i Island) Location: 82-6188 Māmalahoa Highway (Hwy. 19), near Captain Cook. Phone: 808-323-3318, www.bishopmuseum.org/greenwell, open M-F, 8:30-5. [Photograph: Amy B. H. Greenwell Ethnobotanical Garden] This 15-acre (6-ha) ethnobotanical garden on the island of Hawai‘i includes examples of coastal habitat as well as lowland dry forest and upland forest habitats as Hawaiians used them in ancient times. The Garden includes an archaeological remnant of an ancient Kona Field System, covering about 5 acres (2 ha). The Garden’s collection of about 250 different native and Polynesian-introduced plants includes many food and fiber crops such as kalo (Colocasia esculenta, taro), mai‘a (Musa species, banana), ‘ulu (Artocarpus altilis, breadfruit), ‘uala(Ipomoea batatas, sweet potatoes), uhi (Dioscorea alata, yam), kō (Saccharum officinarum, sugarcane), ‘awa (Piper methysticum, kava), ‘ōhi‘a ‘ai (Eugenia malaccense, mountain apple) and wauke (Broussonetia papyrifera, paper mulberry). (See Native andPolynesian-Introduced Plants sections, Chapters 8 and 9, for more information about the plants mentioned above.) Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop—Princess Pauahi (1831-1884) [Photograph: Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop] Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop (Princess Pauahi) was born in Honolulu on December 19, 1831 to her father Abner Pākī (1808-1855) and her mother Konia [Laura Konia] (1808-1857). Konia’s mother was Luahine, and her father was Pauli Ka‘ōleiokū, the son of King Kamehameha I (his first) by Kānekapōlei, making Princess Pauahi a great-grandaughter of King Kamehameha I and also his last direct descendant. Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop’s namesake was Kalani Pauahi, a granddaughter of King Kamehameha I. Kalani Pauahi was a daughter of Pauli Ka‘oleiokū (Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop’s grandfather) and Keōuawahine. With Mataio Kekūanaō‘a, Kalani Pauahi was also the mother of Princess Ruth Ke‘elikōlani, and the grandmother of William Pitt Kīna‘u (son of William Pitt Leleiōhoku (I) and Princess Ruth Ke‘elikōlani). When Princess Ruth Ke‘elikōlani died in 1883, her will bequeathed to Princess Pauahi her elaborate mansion, Keōua Hale (on Emma Street in Honolulu) and approximately 353,000 acres (143,000 ha) of Kamehameha lands, totaling nearly nine percent of the land of the Hawaiian Islands! In 1885, Princess Pauahi also inherited the house known as Haleakalā (near King and Bishop Streets), which was the home of her parents, Abner Pākī and Konia [Laura Konia]. Princess Pauahi also inherited approximately 25,000 acres (10,000 ha) of land from Pākī and Konia [Laura Konia], and Pauahi’s aunt, ‘Akāhi. [Photographs: Pākī, Konia [Laura Konia]] Princess Pauahi was said to have once been engaged to the young Lot Kapuāiwa Kamehameha (who became King Kamehameha V), but instead she chose to marry Charles Reed Bishop. They wed on June 4, 1850 at the Royal School(known as Chiefs’ Children’s School until 1846), a school which Princess Pauahi had attended beginning at the age of eight. Just an hour before King Kamehameha V passed away on December 11, 1872, he offered to name Princess Pauahi as his successor, but she declined. Princess Victoria Kamāmalu (sister of King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani) and King Kamehameha V) had earlier been named the successor to the throne, but she had passed away in 1866. King Kamehameha V was eventually succeeded on the throne by William Charles Lunalilo (King Lunalilo). Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop and Charles Reed Bishop lived in their Honolulu home known as Haleakalā, which was built in 1847 by Abner Pākī, Princess Pauahi’s father. In 1875, King Kalākaua gave Princess Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop the Grand Cross of the Order of Kamehameha. When Princess Pauahi died in 1884, her will left 434,000 acres (175,634 ha) of land in perpetual trust to assist in the establishment of two schools in the Kamehameha name, and thus the Kamehameha Schools Bishop Estate was founded. Ka wahine hele lā o Kaiona, alualu wai li‘ulā o ke kaha pua ‘ōhai. The woman, Kaiona, who travels in the sunshine pursuing the mirage of the place where the ‘ōhai blossoms grow. Kaiona was a goddess of Ka‘ala and the Wai‘anae Mountains. She was a kind person who helped anyone who lost his way in the mountains by sending a bird, an ‘iwa, to guide the lost one out of the forest. In modern times Princess Bernice Pauahi Bishop was compared to Kaiona in songs. (Pukui: 1643-177) Under the terms of the endowment of benefactor, Princess Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop, Kamehameha School for Boys opened in Honolulu on October 4, 1887, and then Kamehameha School for Girls opened on December 19, 1894. Today the Bishop Estate, officially renamed Kamehameha Schools, continues to operate Kamehameha Schools, including the 600-acre (243-ha) Kapālama campus in Honolulu as well as smaller campuses on Maui and Hawai‘i Island. The Estate has vast land holdings and investments worth nearly $7 billion, and educates more than 51,000 students annually on three campuses as well as through charter schools, community outreach programs, and in 28 preschools. (SeeChapter 11, Timeline: 1831, Dec. 19 for a Biographical Sketch of Princess Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop.) Charles Reed Bishop (1822-1915) [Photograph: Charles Reed Bishop] Born in Glen Falls, New York on January 25, 1822, Charles Reed Bishop was orphaned as a child and raised by his grandparents. He attended Glen Falls Academy through the eighth grade, working on his grandparents’ farm and then at various jobs in New York. At age 24, Bishop sailed around Cape Horn bound for Oregon. However, when his ship stopped in the Hawaiian Islands to take on provisions, Bishop stayed, first posting books for the government and then in 1849 becoming Honolulu’s Collector General of Customs. Bishop later opened a mercantile business with A.W. Aldrich. In 1858, out of an office near Honolulu’s waterfront, they formed the firm of Aldrich and Bishop, which later became the Bank of Bishop & Co. Ltd. Much of the bank’s initial business involved loans to companies involved in the whaling and sugar industries, and later significant business with “Big Five” companies: Alexander & Baldwin, Castle & Cooke, Amfac, Theo H. Davies, and C. Brewer. In 1969, the Bank of Bishop & Co. Ltd. was renamed First Hawaiian Bank, and remains today as the State of Hawai‘i’s oldest financial institution. Charles Reed Bishop served on the Board of Education under King Kamehameha V (Lot Kapuāiwa Kamehameha), King Lunalilo, and King Kalākaua, and then belonged to the Privy Council of Queen Lili‘uokalani. With his wife, Princess Pauahi, Charles Reed Bishop traveled to England in 1876. The couple was presented at Queen Victoria’s Court, and was later received by Pope Pius IX in Rome. Charles Reed Bishop was known for his philanthropy, serving on the boards of various charities and contributing generously to many needy causes. After Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop passed away in 1884, her husband played a large role in carrying out the wishes stated in his wife’s will, which included the establishment of Kamehameha Schools. Princess Pauahi’s estate was incredibly wealthy in land assets but very limited in available cash, so Charles Reed Bishop contributed much of his own money to help construct the first school buildings at the original Kalihi location on O‘ahu. The first buildings included the Preparatory Department facilities constructed in 1888, as well as Bishop Hall, constructed in 1891. Bishop Hall became part of the Bishop Museum when the Kamehameha School was relocated in the 1960s. In 1897, Bernice Pauahi Bishop Memorial Chapel was built. To honor his wife, Charles Reed Bishop founded the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum in 1889, constructing Polynesian Hall and Hawaiian Hall on the same site as the school. The museum was meant to complement the Hawaiian education being provided for the students. Collection materials initially came from three prominent women who passed away in the mid-1880s: Ruth Ke‘elikōlani (granddaughter of King Kamehameha I); Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop (great-granddaughter of King Kamehameha I); and Queen Emma, wife of King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani) and great-granddaughter of the brother of King Kamehameha I. The Bishop Museum collection was greatly increased by the transfer of ownership of the Kingdom of Hawai‘i’s National Museum collection to Bishop Museum (see Bishop Museum—History and Purposeabove). In 1894, Charles Reed Bishop moved to San Francisco, California, though he maintained contact with officials at Kamehameha Schools to ensure the school continued to carry out its mission of educating children of the Hawaiian Islands. When Charles Reed Bishop passed away in 1915, his ashes were interred next to his wife in the Kamehameha Tomb at the Royal Mausoleum at Nu‘uanu, O‘ahu. Honolulu’s Bishop Street, named after Charles Reed Bishop, is the business and finance center of the State of Hawai‘i as well as the entire Pacific region. Charles Reed Bishop is remembered for his many years of service to Hawai‘i as a public official, a prominent banker and financier, and a philanthropist. He is also remembered as the husband of the beloved Princess Pauahi.
Historic Waikīkī [Photograph: Old Waikīkī photo] In ancient Hawaiian times, Waikīkī encompassed more than 2,000 acres (809 ha) of marshland. The entire area was a vast drainage basin for the Ko‘olau Mountain Range. Early Hawaiians settlers converted the marshland into lo‘i kalo (taro patches), loko i‘a (fishponds) and other agricultural uses. Fed by the waters of the Mānoa and Makiki Valleys, the land of Waikīkī was fertile and productive. Steeped in history, Waikīkī was also the site of the 1795 landing of Kamehameha the Great’s war canoes during his last military conquest. Having already conquered Hawai‘i Island, Maui, Lāna‘i, and Moloka‘i, Kamehameha landed a huge fleet of war canoes on O‘ahu’s south shore from Waikīkī to Wai‘alae, totaling an estimated 960 canoes, 20 foreign ships, and 16,000 fighters, many trained in modern musketry. Kamehameha’s warriors advanced over the plains, battling an estimated 9,000 warriors of O‘ahu’s Chief, Kalanikūpule. The fighting moved upland, culminating in the Battle of Nu‘uanu when Kamehameha’s troops drove the enemy up toward Nu‘uanu Pali where some of Kalanikūpule’s warriors escaped over the valley’s ridges and some made it down a trail at the end of the pali (cliff). Others were driven over the edge of the cliffs of Nu‘uanu Pali. (Note: Accounts of this battle vary, and it may be that some warriors jumped rather than surrender.) As many as 10,000 warriors may have died in the battle, making the confrontation the deadliest event ever in the Hawaiian Islands (including the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor). (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1795, April for more details of the Battle of Nu‘uanu.) Waikīkī in Transition Waikīkī began to change in the late 1800s as duck ponds replaced many areas that were formerly lo‘i kalo (taro patches) and loko i‘a (fishponds). Land converted into duck ponds included the area that is now the site of the Ala Moana shopping center. By the 1870s, very little taro was being produced in Waikīkī, which was dominated by rice fields planted primarily by Chinese immigrants. In 1877, King Kalākaua dedicated Kapi‘olani Park to his wife, Queen Kapi‘olani. The spacious park, nearly 200 acres (81 ha) in size, is located at the eastern (Diamond Head) end of Waikīkī. The first public park in the Hawaiian Islands, Kapi‘olani Park was used at the turn of the century for horse racing, polo games, band concerts and other festive activities. (See Kapi‘olani Park below.) Looking over Waikīkī is the geographical landmark known to science as a volcanic tuff cone, known in ancient Hawai‘i as Lē‘ahi, and with the modern name Diamond Head. Rising to 760 feet (231 m), the natural landmark received its current name when 19th century British sailors mistook the volcanic cone’s calcite crystals for diamonds. (See Diamond Head below.) Waikīkī—A Resort Destination On March 11, 1901, the Moana Hotel opened. The 75-room, four-story hotel was known as the “First Lady of Waikīkī,” and at the time it was the tallest building in the Hawaiian Islands. The architect of the building was Oliver Green Traphagen. Fifteen years later, the hotel added 100 more rooms as well as a seaside courtyard. [Photograph: Moana Hotel] In 1902, an electric trolley (tram line) was built to connect Waikīkī and downtown Honolulu. This replaced the horse-driven tram cars. The hotel and tram line construction began the process of popularizing Waikīkī as a resort destination, and was also the impetus for building the Ala Wai Canal to drain the wetlands. The Ala Wai Canal was constructed from 1919 to 1928, with funds provided by the Waikīkī Reclamation Project, to drain the region’s wet marshes and make way for streets, businesses, hotels, and houses. The former ponds were filled with coral rubble, creating some of the most valuable real estate in the Hawaiian Islands. Waikīkī gradually became a place of quiet palm-lined beaches where the wealthy built their gingerbread-trimmed cottages. It was also home to Hawaiian royalty, and was considered a place of healing, peace, and hospitality. Influential tourists such as Robert Louis Stevenson, who visited Waikīkī in 1889 and 1893, sang its praises. In 1926, Aloha Tower opened on the waterfront at Honolulu Harbor, becoming the tallest structure in the Hawaiian Islands. The 184-foot (56-m) high tower is topped with a 40-foot (12-m) flagstaff and a 7-ton (6.4-mton) clock. The building was designed by architect Arthur Reynolds. The Royal Hawaiian Hotel (nicknamed the “Pink Palace”) opened in February of 1927, continuing the restructuring of Waikīkī’s coastline and increasing its reputation as an exotic playground for the rich and famous. The two million dollar hotel, with its elegant chandeliers, high ceilings, pink stucco walls, and pink turrets, was built and owned by the Matson Navigation Company. [Photograph: Royal Hawaiian Hotel] Matson also built a $7.5-million premier cruise ship, the Malolo, which held up to 650 passengers and provided luxurious transportation to the fine new hotel. Guests such as Nelson Rockefeller, Henry Ford II, Babe Ruth, and Charlie Chaplin enjoyed the accommodations, which would eventually attract a whole multitude of heirs, heiresses, and Hollywood stars such as Douglas Fairbanks and Mary Pickford. The Ala Moana shopping center now sits on an area that was marshland in the early 1900s when much of it was 3 feet (.9 m) underwater and covered with duck farms. In 1931, the City and County of Honolulu acted to clean up the area, which had also been the site of a refuse dump. President Franklin Delano Roosevelt dedicated Moana Park in 1934, and it was renamed Ala Moana in 1947. Eventually sand was brought to the beachfront area, and the two-story Ala Moana shopping center was built on the adjacent 50 acres (20 ha) of land. The Ala Moana shopping center opened in 1959, the same year the Hawaiian Islands were admitted as the 50th state. The Waikīkī Beachboys From the 1920s to the 1950s, a group of water sports instructors working on the beaches fronting the Royal Hawaiian and Moana Hotels came to be known as the Waikīkī Beachboys. The first Waikīkī Beach Patrol was organized in the 1930s. Many of the Beachboys had colorful names such as Toots, Chick, Steamboat and Turkey. One of the most famous of the Beachboys was the legendary surfer and Olympic gold medallist Duke Kahanamoku(see Duke Kahanamoku, Chapter 3). Duke and other local surfers founded Hui Nalu (Club of the Waves) in 1911, and many of the club members eventually became Waikīkī Beachboys. Their clients along Waikīkī’s beachfront were mostly wealthy visitors who wanted to surf or ride an outrigger canoe in the waves. Clients also included Hawaiian royalty as well as the general public. Many visitors to Waikīkī stayed for lengthy periods of time, and the Beachboys developed friendships with them, and also shared with them their aloha spirit, and insights into Hawaiian culture. There were also many gifted musicians among the Beachboys. Of course, the Waikīkī Beachboys also had many female clients, and rumors of the Beachboys’ amorous adventures abound. O ka papa he‘e nalu kēia, pahe‘e i ka nalu ha‘i o Makaiwa. This is the surfboard that will glide on the rolling surf of Makaiwa. A woman’s boast. Her beautiful body is like the surfboard on which her mate “glides over the rolling surf.” (Pukui: 2433-265) The Hawaiian Islands increasingly became more accessible as a vacation destination for the average United States citizen. Consequently, the length of a typical visitor’s stay in the Islands became shorter, and the nature of tourism began to change. After the attack on Pearl Harbor in 1941, the United States entered World War II and Martial Law was imposed in the Hawaiian Islands. The carefree lifestyle of the Islands changed drastically, and the golden era of the Waikīkī Beachboys ended. In 1973, the Waikīkī Beachboys Canoe Club was formed to restore the original image of Waikīkī Beachboys, embodying not only surfing and canoe paddling skills, but also a generous and open-hearted aloha spirit. [Illustration: Outrigger canoe in Waikīkī]
Modern Waikīkī—Beaches, Historic Sites, and other Attractions Waikīkī is a cosmopolitan melting pot of hotels, parks, gourmet restaurants, fast food outlets, lively dance clubs, countless shopping opportunities, nightlife, and something for just about everyone. Just ½-mile (.8 km) wide by 1½ miles (2.4 km) long, Waikīkī has more than 25,000 residents, 70,000 visiting tourists, 500 restaurants, more than 1,000 shops, and more than 190 hotels and vacation condominiums, along with hundreds of entertainment venues, all in an area of only about 681 acres (276 ha). Waikīkī is lined with white sandy beaches, calm water, and great surfing areas for beginners. Surfboards are available for rent, along with other water sports equipment. The whole length of sand fronting Waikīkī is generally known as Waikīkī Beach, but various individual beaches along this stretch of coastline are named, including Kahanamoku Beach (named after “The Duke”). There are many legendary surf spots offshore, including Rock Piles, Kaisers, Canoes, Queen’s, and Castles. Famous old hotels still grace the beach, including the Moana Hotel (1901) and the Royal Hawaiian Hotel (1927). The following is an overview of Waikīkī’s beaches along information about historic sites in the area. The overview of Waikīkī moves from west to east, including beaches, historic locations, and other important sites that may all be seen along the relatively short but world famous stretch of coastline. Ala Wai Canal [Photograph: Ala Wai Canal] The Ala Wai Canal is a prominent Waikīkī waterway that runs for 25 blocks, separating Waikīkī from Honolulu. Constructed from 1919 to 1928, the Ala Wai Canal was built to help drain the water from what used to be the wetlands and marshes of Waikīkī (see Historic Waikīkī section above). Waikiki means “Spouting water,” a reminder of how wet the area was before the Ala Wai Canal was constructed. When Waikīkī’s water was captured and diverted, the land became a world-class resort area. While driving alongside the Ala Wai Canal today one commonly sees walkers and joggers enjoying the waterside path while paddlers ply the waterway in their outrigger canoes. Kahanamoku Beach and Lagoon Location: Western end of Waikīkī in front of the Hilton Hawaiian Village Hotel. Kahanamoku Beach includes a pier and breakwater, and coral running between the two acts as a break to provide a safe swimming area. The pier also provides a water taxi service to catamaran and submarine cruises. A grassy park area fronting Kahanamoku Beach provides ample room for relaxing. The beach is named after Duke Kahanamoku, the legendary Hawaiian surfer and Olympic champion swimmer who later became a movie star (1922-1933), and then the Sheriff of the City and County of Honolulu for 26 years (1934 to1960). (See Duke Kahanamoku, Chapter 3.) Fort DeRussy Beach Location: Fronting Fort DeRussy Military Reservation, Waikīkī. Fort DeRussy Beach extends for about 1,800 feet (549 m) along the Waikīkī coastline. There are two huts that rent water sports equipment. Bordering the beach are picnic tables, green grass, shady trees and picnic shelters that are all part of the 20 acres (8 ha) of government property known as Fort DeRussy Military Reservation used as a recreational area for United States military personnel and their families. Founded in 1908, Fort DeRussy Beach was named after Brigadier General Rene E. DeRussy, who served with distinction in the Corps of Engineers in the American-British War of 1812. U.S. Army Museum of Hawai‘i Location: Kālia and Saratoga Roads / Phone: 808-438-2821 [Photograph: World War II tanks in front of Museum] The U.S. Army Museum of Hawai‘i at Fort DeRussy opened on December 7, 1976, the 35th anniversary of the attack on Pearl Harbor, the event that entered the United States into World War II. The museum’s collection of weapons is housed in a concrete-reinforced building known as Battery Randolph, which was built in 1911 as one of six coastal artillery battery defenses constructed on O‘ahu from 1908 to 1915. The concrete roof and walls of the Fort are 12 feet (3.7 m) thick, except for the wall on the ocean side, which is 22 feet (6.7 m) thick. The structure was almost demolished by the military in 1969, but when the wrecking ball broke they reconsidered, and established the museum. The Battery once held two 14-inch (36-cm) guns that had a range of about 11 miles (18 km) and fired projectiles weighing 1,560 pounds (708 kg). The guns were designed to recoil down into the building for reloading after each firing, and then were returned into firing position with the assistance of a 55-ton (50-mton) counterweight. The U.S. Army Museum of Hawai‘i now exhibits weaponry from wars fought by the United States as well as weaponry of ancient Hawai‘i. On display are World War II tanks and other weapons from U.S. wars, as well as traditional Hawaiian weapons such as shark-tooth clubs. Photographs, scale models, dioramas, and other educational displays provide information about the military history of the Hawaiian Islands, from the wars of King Kamehameha I that established the Hawaiian Kingdom, to the pivotal role of the Hawaiian Islands in World War II. Gray’s Beach Location: Just to the east (Diamond Head) side of the Halekūlani Hotel. [Photograph: Gray’s Beach, Halekūlani Hotel] A boardinghouse called Gray’s-by-the-Sea once stood in front of this beach. The boardinghouse was run by Mrs. LaVancha Gray, the namesake of the beach. Before 1912, the boardinghouse was the J. Gilman residence. Depending on the tides, this beach may be totally submerged due to a seawall in front of the hotel. The beach is also at the location where an opening in the reef was created for a boat landing. Gray’s Beach was traditionally used as a place of healing, and bathing in the water was done as a treatment for the sick. The beach’s reef entrance and channel is traditionally known as Kawehewehe (“The removal”), and was a place where Hawaiians that were ill came to bathe for healing purposes. Some patients would wear a lei of limu kala (Sargassum echinocarpum) into the water, and then leave it there in hopes of forgiveness for transgressions. (See Limu Kala, Chapter 8.) The Waikīkī area in general was considered a place of healing, and royalty in particular came to Waikīkī to convalesce and recuperate. The renowned coastal region was also home to many kāhuna lapa‘au (traditional healers). Statue of Princess Ka‘iulani Location: Corner of Kānekapōlei and Kūhiō Streets in Waikīkī. Stepping away from the coast for a moment is well worth it to see the statue of the beloved Princess Victoria Ka‘iulani. The statue was dedicated on October 16, 1999, the 124th anniversary of her birth. The 7-foot (2.1-m) bronze sculpture depicts the princess holding her hand out to a peacock. Princess Ka‘iulani had many peacocks (also known by the Hawaiian word pīkake), and was referred to by some as the “Princess of the Peacocks.” The birds roamed the gardens of fragrant, white Arabian jasmine flowers (Jasminum sambac) at Princess Ka‘iulani’s spacious Waikīkī estate known as ‘Āinahau, which was built by her father, Archibald Scott Cleghorn, the Governor of O‘ahu. The blossom of the white Arabian jasmine flower was a favorite of Princess Ka‘iulani. From its association with the young princess, the Arabian jasmine flower later became known by the Hawaiian term pīkake. Princess Ka‘iulani was proclaimed heir apparent to the Hawaiian Kingdom when Queen Lili‘uokalani ascended to the throne in 1891. The young princess attended boarding school in England, and was a talented artist, musician, horseback rider, and swimmer. She was also active in many charitable causes. On March 6, 1899, at the age of 23, Princess Ka‘iulani died at ‘Āinahau, where her favored flowers grew and where her peacocks roamed. The princess had become ill after going horseback riding in a rainstorm. Though her death was attributed to a fever, many believe she died of a broken heart, as the last Hawaiian princess, and heiress to a vanished throne. On the night she died the peacocks (pīkake) are said to have made extremely loud vocal displays of their grief.(See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1875 for Biographical Sketch of Princess Ka‘iulani; also see Pīkake in Lei Flowers, Chapter 3.) Royal Moana Beach / Central Waikīkī Beach Location: In front of the Royal Moana, Outrigger Waikīkī and Royal Hawaiian hotels. This sandy beach area includes a beach activity center (operated by the Outrigger) that provides opportunities for surfing and canoe rides. Offshore from this beach are the famous surfing spots known as Canoes and Queen’s. Those interested in Hawaiian history should take a tour of the Moana Hotel, built in 1901, and the Royal Hawaiian Hotel, built in 1927. (See Historic Waikīkī section.) Opposite the Hyatt Regency Waikīkī Hotel is the Waikīkī Beach Center. The availability of food, canoe rentals, restrooms, and benches make this a favorite place for locals to congregate. Nā Pōhaku Ola Kapaemāhu Ā Kapuni—The Stones of Life Location: Eastern side of the Waikīkī Beach Center. [Photograph: The Stones of Life] These four large boulders known as Nā Pōhaku Ola Kapaemāhu Ā Kapuni are also known as the Stones of Life, and sometimes are referred to as the Wizard Stones of Kapaemāhu. According to legend, the four large rocks hold the secrets and the healing forces of four powerful Tahitian healers: Kahāloa, Kapuni, Kinohi and Kapaemāhū. The healers once resided at Ulukou (“Kou-tree grove”) in Waikīkī, where the Moana Hotel is today. The four Tahitian healers are said to have come from Moa‘ulanuiakea on the island of Raiatea, sometime before the 1500s, around the same time that the reign of the beloved O‘ahu chief Kākuhihewa began. The fame of the powerful Tahitian healers grew as they traveled throughout the Hawaiian Islands administering cures. When it came time for the men to return to their homeland, four huge stones were quarried from the Kaimukī area of Honolulu. The Tahitian healers are said to have transferred their own powers into the boulders before leaving the Hawaiian Islands. The stones were placed on a paepae (stone platform) and an ahu (altar) in 1997. The largest of the stones weighs about 7.5 tons (6.8 mtons). Also now on display is a small stone from the healers’ homeland. This stone was presented to the Hawaiians by Tahitians from Raiatea for the 1997 ceremonies. They named this stone Ta‘ahu, which means “The Life.” Statue of Duke Kahanamoku Location: East (Diamond Head) side of the Waikīkī Beach Center. [Photograph: Duke Kahanamoku] He kā‘e‘a‘e‘a pulu ‘olo no ka he‘e nalu. An expert on the surfboard who does not get wet. Praise of an outstanding surfer. (Pukui: 649-73)
Along the Waikīkī waterfront is the 9-foot (2.7-m) statue of Duke Kahanamoku (1890-1968), a famous Hawaiian waterman and Olympic swimming champion.
A full-blooded Hawaiian and a descendant of Hawaiian royalty, Duke Paoa Kahinu Mokoe Hulikohola Kahanamoku was born August 24, 1890. In 1905, Duke Kahanamoku surfed Waikīkī and began the rebirth of Hawaiian surfing. He also introduced surfing to other places around the world, including Australia, Europe, and the United States. In 1911, Duke set an American swimming record in the 100-yard sprint. He later went on to set a world record, and won a total of 6 medals in the 1912, 1920, 1924, and 1932 Olympics. Duke had a career in Hollywood from 1925 to 1933, appearing in about 30 movies. Yet another of Duke’s accomplishments was serving as Sheriff of Honolulu for 26 years, from 1934 to 1960 (13 consecutive terms). He was also credited with saving many lives through brave ocean rescues, including a daring rescue offshore of Coronal del Mar, California in 1925, where he saved eight people from a capsized launch by rescuing them on his surfboard. Duke Kahanamoku was later designated as Hawai‘i’s official “ambassador of aloha.” (See Duke Kahanamoku, Chapter 3.) Kūhiō Beach Park Kūhiō Beach Park is named after Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana‘ole Pi‘ikoi (1871-1922), whose home fronting this beach was torn down in 1936. (See Statue of Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana‘ole below, and Chapter 11, Timeline: 1871, Mar. 26.) At the eastern end of Kūhiō Beach Park is Kapahulu Groin, a storm drain extending out into the water. This is also a favorite spot for body boarders to display their skills. A breakwater extending from the Kapahulu Groin parallel to the beach for about 1,300 feet (396 m) provides a relatively safe area to watch bodyboarders and surfers who daringly ride the waves toward the wall, often barely avoiding a collision to the amazement of onlookers. Sidewalk pavilions make Kūhiō Beach Park a popular gathering place for locals playing chess and cribbage. Statue of Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana‘ole Location: Ocean side of Kalākaua Avenue near where it intersects with ‘Ohua Avenue. [Photograph: Statue of Prince Kūhiō] Prince Kūhiō was born on March 26, 1871 to David Kahelepouli Pi‘ikoi and Princess Esther Kinoiki Kekaulike near Hō‘ai Bay at Kukui‘ula (“Red light”[17]) west of Kōloa, Kaua‘i. Prince Kūhiō was the nephew of Queen Kapi‘olani (sister of Princess Esther Kinoiki Kekaulike), who adopted him, and the great grandson of Kaumuali‘i, the paramount ruler of Kaua‘i who ceded the island to King Kamehameha I in 1810 to avoid war. Prince Kūhiō was born in the Kōloa region of Kaua‘i’s southern coast near Hō‘ai Bay in a grass house at an ancient fishing village called Kukui‘ula (“Red light”[18]). He was the youngest of three boys, all considered ali‘i (royalty) due to their royal descent from Kaua‘i’s paramount ruler (king) Kaumuali‘i. One brother, Edward Keali‘ihonui, died in his teens. Jonah Kūhiō and his other brother David Kawānanakoa were adopted into the childless royal family of King Kalākaua and Queen Kapi‘olani after the boys’ father, David Kahalepouli Pi‘ikoi, died when Kūhiō was ten. Kalaniana‘ole, means “The royal chief without measure,”[19] referring to the prince’s noble heredity, which includes the royal lineage of Kūhiō’s mother, Esther Kinoiki Kekaulike, who was appointed governor of Hawai‘i Island by King Kalākaua. When Kūhiō was 13 years old, King Kalākaua declared Jonah and his brother David princes by royal decree with the intent that they would carry on the Kalākaua dynasty. King Kalākaua and Queen Kapi‘olani held an official coronation on February 12, 1883 at ‘Iolani Palace, and the jeweled royal crowns were carried by Prince Kūhiō and his brother DavidKawānanakoa. Due to his cherubic and handsome looks, Prince Kūhiō was sometimes referred to as Prince Cupid, a name given to him in his youth by his French teacher. Prince Kūhiō attended the Royal School and Punahou School on O‘ahu, and then attended St. Matthew’s College in California before enrolling in the Royal Agricultural College in Cirencester, England. He then graduated from an English business school. Prince Kūhiō was a master of the traditional Hawaiian art of lua (ancient Hawaiian form of martial arts). He also competed on school teams in the sports of football and track. In 1884, Kūhiō was appointed to the Cabinet of the Hawaiian Kingdom by Kalākau to administer the Department of the Interior. With the support of King Kalākaua, Prince Kūhiō studied Japanese culture and government for one year inJapan. The king hoped the Prince would find a royal Japanese bride and form a marital alliance between the Hawaiian Islands and Japan. Prince Kūhiō was named as presumptive heir to the throne by Queen Lili‘uokalani after she ascended to the throne in 1891, making Kūhiō the last royally-designated heir. After he returned to the Hawaiian Islands just before the Hawaiian monarchy was overthrown in 1893, Prince Kūhiō worked to restore Queen Lili‘uokalani to the throne. In 1895 at the age of 24, Prince Kūhiō participated in a royalist uprising (a counter-revolution) against the Republicof Hawai‘i, and was arrested by the Provisional Government, charged with treason, and imprisoned for one year. After his release from prison, Prince Kūhiō married Elizabeth Kahanu Ka‘auwai, a full-blooded Hawaiian chiefess who was the daughter of a Maui chief, and they took a trip to Africa. Disheartened by the events in the Hawaiian Islands, Prince Kūhiō joined the British Army in South Africa in the Boer War. Prince Kūhiō was next in line to ascend to the throne after Princess Ka‘iulani passed away in 1899, but the restoration of the monarchy became more unlikely with each passing year. Prince Kūhiō and his wife returned to the Hawaiian Islands in 1901. He helped organize the Republican Party in 1902 and that same year he was elected as the Territory of Hawai‘i’s second, non-voting delegate to the United States Congress (after Robert Wilcox), serving in the position for a total of 20 years (ten, two-year terms) until he died in 1922. Prince Kūhiō helped to found the Order of Kamehameha in 1903 and the Hawaiian Civic Club of Honolulu in 1918. The Civic Club’s tradition of community involvement continues today. Due to his political efforts to help Hawaiians and promote self-sufficiency among the native population, Prince Kūhiō was known as Ke Ali‘i Maka‘āinana, which means “Chief of the Commoners,” “Citizen Prince,” or “Prince of the People.” Throughout his life, Prince Kūhiō worked to preserve the traditions and culture of native Hawaiians. One of Prince Kūhiō’s legacies was his inspired involvement in the passing of the Hawaiian Homestead Commission Act, which was enacted on July 9, 1921 to provide low-cost homestead and farming land to Hawaiians with at least 50% native Hawaiian ancestry based on blood quantum. A total of 203,500 acres (82,354 ha) was designated as “available lands” for the program, but the sugar companies had lobbied to exclude all areas that were not used for sugar, which included most of the best agricultural land in the Hawaiian Islands. No money was available to develop the second-tier parcels and thus most of the lands were not used. During the first 70 years after the passage of Hawaiian Homestead Commission Act of 1920, just 3,000 families received lands and many people who were on the original list of applications passed away before receiving land. Of his political efforts, Prince Kūhiō stated, “The legislation proposed seeks to place the Hawaiian back on the soil, so that the valuable and sturdy traits of that race, peculiarly adapted to the islands, shall be preserved to posterity.”[20] Prince Kūhiō’s home was called Pualeilani, which means “Flower from the wreath of heaven.” The home was located across Kalākaua Avenue from Kūhiō Beach Park. Prince Kūhiō passed away due to heart disease on January 7, 1922 at the age of 50. He was given the last state funeral held for a Hawaiian ali‘i (royalty), and was laid to rest at the Royal Mausoleum in O‘ahu’s Nu‘uanu Valley. Prince Kūhiō Park is located near the Prince Kūhiō’s birthplace on Kaua‘i’s southern shore west of Kōloa. The park features a pond and terraced stone walls, Hō‘ai Heiau, and a statue of the prince that was unveiled on June 17, 1928 with about 10,000 people in attendance. Prince Kūhiō’s life is celebrated with an annual state holiday each year on Prince Kūhiō Day, the prince’s birthday, March 26. Prince Kūhiō Day is traditionally a day of canoe races and other local events, including a ceremony at PrinceKūhiō Park on Kaua‘i. Kūhiō Beach Park in Waikīkī is named after Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana‘ole Pi‘ikoi, whose home fronting the beach was torn down in 1936. (See Kūhiō Beach Park; and Statue of Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana‘ole in O‘ahu section, Chapter 2;Prince Kūhiō Park/Hō‘ai Heiau in Kaua‘i section, Chapter 2; and Chapter 11: Timeline: 1871, March 26 forBiographical Sketchof Prince Kūhiō.) Damien Museum Location: 130 ‘Ōhua Avenue, Waikīkī / Phone: 808-923-2690 Open 9-3, Mon.-Fri. / Website: www.smcenter.org/staugustine [Photograph: Damien Museum (artifacts inside; vestment of Father Damien)] The Damien Museum is a small museum but an important place to visit for anyone interested in Hawaiian history. The museum is located behind St. Augustine’s Church on the corner of Kalākaua Ave. and Ohua Ave. on the Waikīkī waterfront. St. Augustine’s Church is a steep-roofed structure that is hard to miss, and is notable for its many, beautiful works of stained glass. Housed in a separate building behind the church, the Damien Museum honors Father Damien (Joseph Damien DeVeuster), who was born in Belgium on January 3, 1840. Father Damien became a member of the Missionary Congregation of the Sacred Hearts, and in 1864 he was ordained as a Roman Catholic priest at Honolulu’s Cathedral of Our Lady of Peace. In 1873, Father Damien volunteered to go to Moloka‘i’s Kalaupapa Peninsula to minister to the victims of Hansen’s Disease (leprosy), which is caused by Mycobacterium leprae, a slow-growing bacterium. Father Damien died of leprosy at Kalaupapa 16 years later, on April 15, 1889. The Damien Museum features video presentations related to Father Damien, as well as photographs, artifacts and some of the legendary priest’s personal effects. Referred to as the “martyr of Moloka‘i,” Father Damien is also immortalized in a statue that faces Beretania St. on O‘ahu, in front of the State Capitol Building. A selfless servant to those in need, Father Damien was beatified by Pope John Paul II on June 4, 1995 in Brussels, Belgium. (For more information on Father Damien, see Moloka‘i section; Statue of Father Damien in Honolulu section; and Chapter 11, Timeline: 1865; 1873; 1889; 1969; 1995.) Kapi‘olani Beach Park Location: Extends from the Kapahulu Groin past Waikīkī Aquarium. The waters offshore of the midsection of Kapi‘olani Beach Park are a favorite area for bodyboarders. The surf spot offshore is known as Publics. A grass lawn and coconut palms along Kapi‘olani Beach Park provide a pleasant place to relax. The Queen’s Surf pavilion has showers and restrooms, and a concession called The Beach House sells various food items. Mauka (toward the mountains) and across the Kalākaua Avenue is Kapi‘olani Park (see below). War Memorial Natatorium [Photograph: War Memorial Natatorium] The War Memorial Natatorium is a tide-fed, saltwater pool that serves as a memorial to the 179 men and women of the Hawaiian Islands that died as soldiers in World War I. Built in 1927, the 100-meter-long swimming pool is the largest saltwater pool in the United States. In the past, the pool was used for training by champion swimmers such as Duke Kahanamoku and Johnny Weissmuller. The War Memorial Natatorium is now listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Sans Souci Beach Location: East of War Memorial Natatorium. Sans Souci Beach provides a calm swimming area to the east of the War Memorial Natatorium and near the New Otani Kaimana Beach Hotel. The name Sans Souci is French for “without care” and was also the name of a small hotel that once stood where the new hotel is now. Famed author Robert Louis Stevenson penned his praises of the area while he stayed at the San Souci Hotel for five weeks in 1893. The reef-protected swimming area at San Souci Beach makes it a favorite among many locals who swim their daily laps there. The beach is also a popular snorkeling area, and showers are available. Just to the east of San Souci Beach is the Outrigger Canoe Club Beach, in front of the Outrigger Canoe Club, which was founded in 1908. Offshore is the surf spot now known as Castles, but in ancient times the surf spot was known as Kalehuawehe, which means (“Removed lehua lei”). The name refers to the legend of Pīkoi, who wore a lehua lei while trying to convince a surfing chiefess (the wife of a ruling chief) to give him her board. She refused because the board was kapu (sacred), but Pīkoi gave the chiefess his lei. Ka nalu ha‘i o Kalehuawehe. The rolling surf of Kalehuawehe. Ka-lehua-wehe (Take-off-the-lehua) was Waikīkī’s most famous surf. It was so named when a legendary hero took off his lei of lehua blossoms and gave it to the wife of the ruling chief, with whom he was surfing. (Pukui: 1493-161) It is said that Kalehuawehe surf spot was created by a stream that once ran through the center of Waikīkī and then emptied into the ocean near where the Moana Hotel is today. The stream, known as ‘Āpuakēhau (which means “Basket of dew”), is said to have carved out the seafloor offshore from Waikīkī, creating the legendary surf spot. The construction of the Ala Wai Canal in 1919 meant the end of ‘Āpuakēhau Stream. Kapi‘olani Park Location: Eastern (Diamond Head) end of Waikīkī. [Photograph: Kapi‘olani Park] Kapi‘olani Park was dedicated in 1877 and named by King Kalākaua to honor his wife, Queen Kapi‘olani. The park was once the site of band concerts, polo games, horse races, and (later) car races. After the Hawaiian Islands were annexed by the United States in 1898, Kapi‘olani Park was used as an encampment by the United States Army. In modern times, Kapi‘olani Park serves a variety of uses, hosting sporting events and musical concerts, and providing a nice place to rest under a shady banyan tree. With a great view of Diamond Head (Lē‘ahi), Kapi‘olani Park spans over nearly 200 acres (80 ha), and includes large grassy lawns as well as sports fields and tennis courts. Shady areas are provided by tall banyans, palms and ironwood trees. A stage in the park is known as the Kapi‘olani Bandstand, and is the site of hula performances. The bandstand is also used for concerts by popular bands, and the Royal Hawaiian Band often plays free Sunday afternoon concerts. An outdoor amphitheater in the park is known as the Waikīkī Shell, and hosts rock concerts as well as other musical events, including the Honolulu Symphony. Honolulu Zoo Location: 151 Kapahulu Ave / Phone: 808-923-7723 [Photograph: Animals at Honolulu Zoo] Also in Kapi‘olani Park is the Honolulu Zoo, which covers about 42 acres (17 ha). The zoo is home to about 300 species, with an African Savanna section that has zebras, giraffes, hippos, white rhinos, monkeys, lions, and cheetahs. Other major attractions at the zoo include two elephants, many tropical birds, and a petting zoo. The fence around the Honolulu Zoo is the site of the Zoo Fence Art Mart, an outdoor art market tradition that goes back decades and is still held several times each week. It is known as a great place to buy some local paintings. The Kapi‘olani Bandstand, the Waikīkī Shell, and the Honolulu Zoo are all at the western end of Kapi‘olani Park. Near the shoreline at the eastern (Diamond Head) end of the Kapi‘olani Park is the Waikīkī Aquarium (see below). Waikīkī Aquarium Location: 2777 Kalākaua Avenue, Waikīkī / Phone: 808-923-9741 Open 9-5 daily; [Photograph: People looking at aquarium exhibit in Waikīkī Aquarium] The Waikīkī Aquarium is at the eastern (Diamond Head) end of Kapi‘olani Park, by the ocean. Founded in 1904, it is the oldest aquarium west of the Mississippi River, and is also the United States’ third oldest public aquarium. Exhibiting more than 2,500 organisms, Waikīkī Aquarium includes more than 420 species of aquatic plants and animals, including black-tip reef sharks, giant clams, translucent jellyfish, colorful reef fish, living coral species, moray eels, a Hawaiian green sea turtle, and Hawaiian monk seals, just to name a few of the species. The aquarium also provides many interactive, educational opportunities for children, including the “touch-me tide pool.” A small theater shows short educational films. Southeast O‘ahu Diamond Head State Monument Diamond Head rises up prominently on the east side of Waikīkī, and a short hike to the summit provides spectacular views. Formed by volcanic activity, Diamond Head is one of O‘ahu’s prominent geologic features known as tuff cones, imminent reminders of O‘ahu’s volcanic past. The tuff cone and crater of Diamond Head formed long after the major volcanic activity that created O‘ahu. Other prominent O‘ahu tuff cones include Koko Head (Kohelepelepe) and Punchbowl (Pūowaina). [Photograph: Diamond Head] The Hawaiian name for the highest peak of Diamond Head is Lē‘ahi, a name that is a variation of Lae-‘ahi, said to come from Hi‘iaka, the younger sister of Pele, the legendary goddess of fire and volcanoes. According to legend, it was Hi‘iaka who compared the lae (brow) of the ‘ahi fish to the mountain. In ancient Hawai‘i, Lē‘ahi was the site of he‘e hōlua (hōlua sledding), which involved using papa hōlua (wooden sleds) to slide down steep hills or specially constructed stone ramps. Also located atop Lē‘ahi was a luakini heiau, a sacred place of worship where human sacrifices were performed. A Hawaiian proverb states, “Nani Lē‘ahi, he maka no Kahiki,” (“Beautiful Lē‘ahi, object of the eyes from Kahiki,”said to refer to, “Diamond Head, always observed with interest by visitors from foreign lands.”[21] The site’s common name, Diamond Head, was the result of British sailors in 1825 mistaking calcite crystals found there for diamonds. During World War II, Diamond Head became a military installation. The construction of Fort Ruger at the edge of the Diamond Head crater began in 1908. A network of tunnels was carved into the mountain, and cannon emplacements were placed atop the crater rim along with observation posts and bunkers. The Fort was reinforced during World War II, though the guns were never fired. Today the Hawai‘i National Guard has a base within Diamond Head crater. The Diamond Head Trail leading to the summit climbs 560 feet (171 m) over 1½ miles (2.4 m). A tunnel along the trail leads to a 99-step stairway, and then another shorter tunnel and more stairs. At 760 feet (232 m) above sea level, the summit’s panoramic views include Koko Head and Koko Crater on the southeast coast as well as Barbers Point and the Wai‘anae Mountains on the leeward coast. Also visible just beneath Diamond Head is Kapi‘olani Park. [Diamond Head National Natural Landmark, Montserrat & 18th Avenues, open 6-6 daily.] Diamond Head Beach Diamond Head Beach is a popular surfing and windsurfing area. Showers are available, but no restrooms. [Diamond Head Beach—Directions: Take Wakīkī’s Kalākaua Avenue to Diamond Head Road and park just past the lighthouse. The paved trail to the beach starts past the east side of the parking lot.] Koko Head Regional Park Koko Head Regional Park encompasses the whole Koko Head area, including Koko Crater and Koko Head (volcanic tuff cones). Also included in the Regional Park are Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve, Sandy Beach, and the nearby Hālona Blowhole. Each of these sites is described below. Koko Crater / Koko Head The geologic tuff cones of Koko Head and Koko Crater are known as geologic tuff cones. Koko Head forms the southwest side of Hanauma Bay. The 642-foot (196-m) summit of Koko Head includes two craters. Radar facilities are located atop the summit, and there is a road but it is not open to the public. A small botanical garden within Koko Crater is run by the county and features a variety of dryland plants including cacti. In the summit’s ‘Ihi‘ihilauākea Crater (the bigger of Koko Head’s two summit craters), the unique native ecosystem includes a vernal pool as well as the rare Marsilea villosa fern. ‘Ihi‘ihilauākea means “Wide-leafed ‘ihi‘ihi (an extinct or unknown plant said to have grown at this site).”[22]A preserve in the crater is managed by the Nature Conservancy (808-537-5408), which provides access for volunteers. [Koko Crater, open 9-4 daily. Directions: Take Kalaniana‘ole Highway (Hwy. 72) to Kealahou Street (at the north side of Sandy Beach); go ½-mile (.8 km); turn left at one-lane road leading to Koko Crater stables; go 1/3 mile (.5 km) to botanical garden.] Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve More than one million visitors come to Hanauma Bay each year. The snorkeling is fantastic, with large schools of colorful fish of many different species. Hanauma means “Curved bay.”[23] Both sides of Hanauma Bay are lined with lava rock ledges. When the waves are big or the ocean is rough, it can wash over these ledges, which are sometimes closed due to the dangerous conditions. The path to the west leads out to Hanauma Bay’s southern point and the chaotic waters of Witches Brew. From this area there is a good view of Koko Crater. Walking along the lava ledge to the east leads to the spot known as Toilet Bowl, a pool in the lava that is connected to the bay’s waters by an underground tube in the lava. Some adventurous (if foolhardy) people enjoy the sudden change in water level as the water surges in and drains out, but this may be dangerous and is not recommended. Hanauma Bay is one of the Hawaiian Islands’ most dangerous beaches, perhaps in part because it is one of the most popular beaches. Many people have died at Hanauma Bay, including two people who died near Witch’s Brew in July of 2002. Always check with lifeguards about water conditions. At the mouth of the bay is a potentially dangerous current known as the Moloka‘i Express. [Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve, 808-396-4229, 7455 Kalaniana‘ole Highway (Hwy. 72), Honolulu, open daily except Tuesdays, 6am-7pm from April to October; 6am-6pm from November to March. Directions: From Waikīkī, take Kalaniana‘ole Highway (Hwy. 72) about 10 miles (16 km) east.] Sandy Beach Park The pounding shorebreak at Sandy Beach can be extremely dangerous, and many injuries have occurred there, including broken necks. This same dangerous shorebreak, however, also makes the beach popular among experienced body boarders as well as surfers. Sandy Beach is also a popular sunbathing beach with a wide stretch of golden sand. Hālona Blowhole Less than 2 miles (3.2 km) past Hanauma Bay is Hālona Blowhole, where water rushes into an underwater tunnel in the lava rock, sending seawater spouting up through a hole above. With each surge of the ocean waves against the shoreline, the air compressed into the tunnel lets out a roaring sound to accompany the erupting geyser of water. Hālona means “Peering place.”[24] Below and to the right of the blowhole area is Hālona Cove, seen in the 1950s movie From Here to Eternity. Waves surge over Burt Lancaster and Deborah Kerr (as Sgt. Warden and his commanding officer’s wife) as the embracing lovers have an affair on the secluded beach. Makapu‘u Point Makapu‘u Point is located just over 1 mile (1.6 km) north of Sandy Beach (see above). The point reaches an elevation of about 647 feet (197 m) and is accessed parking off Kalaniana‘ole Highway (Hwy. 72) near the service road for the Makapu‘u Lighthouse. The walk in is about a 1 mile (1.6 km). Makapu‘u is O‘ahu’s easternmost point. Just past the lighthouse access road is a roadside lookout over Makapu‘u Beach. This is a popular hang-gliding site. Offshore is an islet called Kāohikaipu (“hold back the container...so called because the rock blocked sea-swept matter”[25]). Behind Kāohikaipu is the larger Manana Island, also called Rabbit Island because it is home to many rabbits. Manana also provides habitat for native seabirds, including ‘ua‘u kani (Puffinus pacificus chlororhynchus, wedge-tailed shearwaters), which sometimes inhabit the same burrows as the rabbits. Makapu‘u Beach, located across from Sea Life Park, is a popular bodysurfing beach—surfboards aren’t allowed. The currents and shorebreak at Makapu‘u Beach can be extremely dangerous during the winter months, and it is not a place for beginners. During summer, however, the beach becomes much more hospitable. Sea Life Park Sea Life Park is located just north of Makapu‘u Point, and features an 18-foot (5.5-m) deep, 300,000 gallon (1.1 million liter) aquarium full of a whole panoply of marine creatures, including reef fish, sharks, eels, and even sea turtles. A spiral ramp provides optimal viewing from different levels. The park also features dolphin performances, and has separate pools housing harbor seals and California sea lions. A bird sanctuary area at Sea Life Park provides habitat for such native birds as mōlī (Diomedea immutabilis, Laysan albatross), ‘a (Sula sula rubripes, red-footed boobies), and ‘iwa (Fregata minor palmerstoni, great frigatebirds). A 38-foot (11.6-m) skeleton of a palaoa (Physeter macrocephalus, sperm whale) hangs from the park’s Whaling Museum. [Sea Life Park, 808-259-7933, 41-202 Kalaniana‘ole Highway (Hwy. 72), Waimānalo, open 9:30-5 daily (Friday until 10 p.m., www.sealifeparkhawaii.com.] Waimanalo From Makapu‘u Point to Wailea Point, Waimanalo Bay extends for 5½ miles (9 km), making it O‘ahu’s longest continuous beach. Located along the bay are three beach parks, including: Waimanalo Beach Park, Waimanalo Bay Beach Park, and Bellows Field Beach Park. An offshore coral reef keeps the area somewhat protected from the surf. At the northern end of Waimanalo Bay is Bellows Field Beach Park, located in front of Bellows Air Force Station. The beach park is only open to civilians during the weekends, from noon on Fridays until Monday at 8 a.m. Camping is also available, and permits are issued through the County Department of Parks and Recreation (808-523-4525). Toward the middle of the shoreline of Waimanalo Bay is Waimanalo Bay Beach Park, and about 1 mile (1.6 km) south is Waimanalo Beach Park, a nice swimming area with a good view of the deeply furrowed Ko‘olau mountain range. Waimanalo Bay was seen regularly on the television series Magnum PI (it’s where Magnum often took his morning swim). Pearl Harbor U.S.S. Arizona Memorial [Photograph: U.S.S. Arizona Memorial] One of the Hawaiian Islands’ most visited attractions is Pearl Harbor’s U.S.S. Arizona Memorial, honoring those who died in the Dec. 7, 1941 Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor, an event that entered the United States into World War II. The attack on Pearl Harbor by 350 Japanese bombers killed 2,335 United States soldiers. The attack also sunk or damaged eight huge American battleships along with three light cruisers, three destroyers, and four smaller ships. In all, 21 United States ships were damaged and 347 planes were destroyed. 1,177 men perished in the fiery sinking of the U.S.S. Arizona, which was at its moorings on Battleship Row and sunk in just nine minutes after being hit by a Japanese bomb. 2,323 United States military personnel died in the Pearl Harbor attack, along with 60 civilians. Another 1,178 people were wounded. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1941, Dec. 7.) The U.S.S. Arizona Memorial is an open structure that is 184 feet (56 m) long, and positioned directly over the wreck of the U.S.S. Arizona. Nine hundred of the U.S.S. Arizona’s crew remain entombed in the sunken vessel. TheU.S.S. Arizona Memorial Museum includes a theater that provides information about the Pearl Harbor attack. The architect of the U.S.S. Arizona Memorial was an Austrian named Alfred Preis who fled the Nazis in 1939 and later moved to the Hawaiian Islands. The creation of the Memorial was approved by President Dwight D. Eisenhower in 1958, and on Memorial Day in 1962 it was officially dedicated. Part of the funding for the Memorial came from an Elvis Presley benefit concert at Honolulu’s Bloch Arena. The concert raised about $64,000 toward the $500,000 cost of the shrine. About 1.5 million visitors a year tour the U.S.S. Arizona Memorial, which was designated as a National Historical Landmark in 1989. [U.S.S. Arizona Memorial Visitor Center, 808-422-2771; 422-0561; 1 Arizona Memorial Place, Pearl Harbor, Honolulu, www.nps.gov/usar, open 7:30-5 daily.] U.S.S. Missouri [Photograph: U.S.S. Missouri] World War II ended after the United States dropped nuclear bombs on the Japanese cities of Hiroshima (August 6, 1945) and Nagasaki (August 9, 1945). The imminent defeat of Japan led to a celebration of “V-J Day” (Victory in Japan Day) on August 15, 1945. The forces of Japan officially surrendered on September 2, 1945 on the deck of the U.S.S. Missouri battleship, now known as “Mighty Mo.” Originally launched in 1944, the U.S.S. Missouri was permanently decommissioned on March 31, 1992. Now open for public tours, the 58,000-ton (52,600-mton) ship is docked at Pearl Harbor’s Battleship Row, just a few hundred yards from the U.S.S. Arizona Memorial. The U.S.S. Missouri had a 50-year career serving in World War II (in the battles of Iwo Jima and Okinawa), Korea, and Operation Desert Storm in the Persian Gulf in 1991. On August 20, 2001, theU.S.S. Missouri welcomed its one-millionth visitor. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1945, Aug. 14.) [Battleship Missouri Memorial, 808-973-2494 (recording); 808-423-2263, 1 Arizona Memorial Drive, Pearl Harbor, Honolulu,www.ussmissouri.org, open daily 9-5.] U.S.S. Bowfin Submarine Museum and Park [Photograph: U.S.S. Bowfin Submarine] The U.S.S. Bowfin submarine first launched one year after the 1941 attack on Pearl Harbor, and is one of just 15 remaining submarines from the World War II era. The submarine carried a crew of 80, and sank 44 ships in the Pacific Ocean. A Memorial within the U.S.S. Bowfin Submarine Park honors the 3,500 submariners lost during the war along with 52 U.S. submarines. The Memorial pays tribute to the important role submarines played in defense of the United States. Visitors may enter the U.S.S. Bowfin Submarine Museum and Park for free and view the Japanese suicide torpedo, called the Kaiten. It is also free to look through the periscopes. There is a fee for the submarine/museum tour, which includes boarding the U.S.S. Bowfin. [U.S.S. Bowfin Submarine Museum and Park, 11 Arizona Memorial Drive, Pearl Harbor, Honolulu, 808-423-1341, open daily 8-5,www.bowfin.org.] Keaīwa Heiau Keaīwa Heiau State Recreation Area encompasses 334 acres (135 ha) above ‘Aiea north of Pearl Harbor. The terraced stone structure of Keaīwa Heiau is 160 feet (49 m) long by 100 feet (30 m) wide. In ancient times, Keaīwa Heiau was used by kāhuna lapa‘au, respected ancient practitioners who used plants and other native and Polynesian-introduced resources to cure illnesses. Many of the plants used in traditional herbal medicines still grow in the area, and the site is respected by natives for its spiritual and healing energy. According to Place Names of Hawaii(1974), “the heiau, probably medicinal, is said to have been built in the time of Kākuhihewa. The site was rededicated in 1951, but before that time, people had hauled away stones from the heaiu.”[26] Keaīwa is defined as “The mystery,” and “...said to be the name of an early priest and to refer to his mysterious healing powers.”[27] ‘Aiea Loop Trail is a 4½-mile (7.2-km) hiking trail that begins near the park’s restrooms. The scenic trail has views of the Ko‘olau Mountains and Lē‘ahi (Diamond Head), as well as Pearl Harbor below. Also visible along the trail’s eastern ridge is a C-47 cargo plane that wrecked there 1943. [Keaīwa Heiau, 808-483-2511, ‘Aiea Heights Drive, open 7-sunset daily.] Leeward O‘ahu Leeward (western) O‘ahu extends from the ‘Ewa area at O‘ahu’s southwestern tip along the length of the Wai‘anae Coast up to Ka‘ena Point. The ‘Ewa area includes Kapolei, O‘ahu’s fastest growing town, as well as Barbers Point Naval Air Station, which is now demilitarized and dedicated to civilian uses. Northeast of ‘Ewa is Waipahu, which was a prominent sugar plantation town until the mill closed in 1995. As one of the Hawaiian Island’s last plantation towns, Waipahu (“Bursting water”[28]) is a fitting place for Hawai‘i’s Plantation Village, a cultural theme park that features re-creations of typical plantation villages during the Hawaiian Islands’ sugarcane area. Separate villages represent eight different ethnic groups that immigrated to the Hawaiian Islands in the early 1900s, including Chinese, Portuguese, Puerto Rican, Japanese, Filipino, Okinawan, and Korean, as well as a Hawaiian hale (house). [Hawai‘i’s Plantation Village, 808-667-0110, 94-695 Waipahu Street, Waipahu, open 9-4:30 Mon.-Fri.; 10-4:30 Sat.] Wai‘anae Coast The Wai‘anae Coast is located on O‘ahu’s extreme western side, which is also the dry, leeward side of the island. Many of O‘ahu’s residents moved to this arid region after fleeing their home villages when King Kamehameha invaded O‘ahu in 1795 (see Chapter 11, Timeline: 1795). Previously, the Wai‘anae Coast had been only sparsely populated. Today the biggest town along the Wai‘anae Coast is Nānākuli, which houses one of the largest native Hawaiian populations in the Hawaiian Islands. The next largest town is Wai‘anae, with a beach park and protected harbor. Mākaha, located on O‘ahu’s western shore, is the site of an ancient heiau (sacred place of worship) calledKānē‘ākī Heiau. Originally dedicated to Lono, the god of agriculture and fertility, Kānē‘ākī Heiau later became a luakini heiau, where human sacrifices were performed. It is said that King Kamehameha I used the heiau as a place of worship after he conquered O‘ahu in 1795. Kānē‘ākī Heiau was restored by the Bishop Museum in 1970 using traditional materials, such as native pili grass(Heteropogon contortus, twisted beardgrass) and logs of ‘ohi‘a lehua (Metrosideros species), to create a drum house, prayer towers and sacred images. Mākaha Beach is a renowned surfing spot from ancient days. In modern times, Mākaha Beach hosts the annual Buffalo’s Longboard Contest, which is run by the legendary Buffalo Kaulana. Further north is Mākua Beach, known for its friendly dolphins. From Mākua Beach north is a long stretch of sandy beach called Keawa‘ula, which means “The red harbor,”[29]and is “...said to be named for numerous cuttlefish [mūhe‘e] that color the water.”[30]Keawa‘ula is more commonly known as Yokohama Beach, a name that originated during the plantation era when large numbers of Japanese immigrant laborers fished in the area. They came on the O‘ahu Railroad train, “...and so many of these fishermen came that the bay was called Yokohama Bay.”[31] Farrington Highway (Hwy. 93) follows the length of the Wai‘anae Coast to Ka‘ena Point State Park, passing many white-sand beaches along the way. [Wai‘anae Coast, Farrington Highway (Hwy. 93).] The Windward Side—Makapu‘u to Kahuku O‘ahu’s windward (eastern) side is nestled between the turquoise ocean and the steep, deeply furrowed mountains of the Ko‘olau Range. The windward coast is the wetter side of O‘ahu, and extends from Kahuku Point in the north to Makapu‘u Point in the south. Kailua and Kāne‘ohe are the windward side’s two main towns. Tradewinds along this side of the island make it a popular place for sailing and windsurfing. Numerous offshore islets along this coast are preserved as bird sanctuaries. Some of these islets are accessible for recreational uses, while others are utilized for academic research purposes (seeMoku-o-Lo‘e below). Kahuku Point / James Campbell National Wildlife Refuge Kahuku Point is the spot where the north shore ends and the windward coast begins. Just south of Kahuku Point is the old sugarcane town of Kahuku, where the historic sugar mill has been converted into a shopping center. Much of the old mill’s machinery is now included in the shopping center’s decor. Located north of Kahuku is O‘ahu’s largest refuge, the 164-acre (66-ha) James Campbell National Wildlife Refuge encompasses native wetland habitat for endangered wetland birds of the Hawaiian Islands, including the ae‘o (Himantopus mexicanus knudseni, Hawaiian black-necked stilt); ‘alae ke‘oke (Fulica americana alai, Hawaiian coot); koloa maoli (Anas wyvilliana, Hawaiian duck); and ‘alae ‘ula (Gallinulachloropus sandvicensis, Hawaiian moorhen). Guided tours of the Refuge are given by reservation from August 1 to February 15, but during the rest of the year, when the stilts are breeding and nesting, public access is not allowed . [James Campbell National Wildlife Refuge, 808-637-6330, 2 miles (3.2 km) north of Kahuku town. Guided public tours: Thurs: 4-5:30; Sat: 3-3:15.] Mālaekahana State Recreation Area / Moku‘auia (Goat Island) Just north of Lā‘ie is Mālaekahana State Recreation Area, which extends from Kalanai Point north to Makahoa Point. Mālaekahana Beach is usually safe for swimming and also popular for other water activities such as surfing and windsurfing. Picnic facilities are available at Kalanai Point, and camping is allowed with a permit. At Makahoa Point, camping is allowed for a fee, and cabin rentals are also available. Offshore of Mālaekahana State Recreation Area is Moku‘auia, also known as Goat Island, which may be accessed by swimming or snorkeling across the channel, or wading across at low tide. Check with the lifeguards to make sure conditions are safe. Moku‘auia means “Island to One Side.”[32] [Mālaekahana State Recreation Area, 808-293-1736, Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. ) at Kalanai Point, Friends of Mālaekahana, , open until 6:30.] Lā‘ie / Polynesian Cultural Center Mormon missionaries first arrived in the Hawaiian Islands in 1850, establishing the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints in Lā‘ie, O‘ahu, and soon winning over large numbers of Hawaiians to their faith. In 1865 the Mormons purchased 6,000 acres (2,428 ha) of land in the Lā‘ie region. In 1919, the Mormons in Lā‘ie used volcanic rocks and crushed coral to build a smaller version of the Mormon temple in Salt Lake City, Utah. Constructed at the base of the Ko‘olau Mountains, the church was dedicated in 1920, becoming the first Mormon temple built outside of the continental United States. In 1955, the Mormons established the Church College of Hawai‘i in Lā‘ie. By 1971, Church College had about 1,300 students, many of whom came from various Pacific Islands. Then in 1974 the school became a branch campus of Provo, Utah’s Brigham Young University, a 4-year college with an enrollment of about 2,000 undergraduates. The Mormon temple is considered the “cornerstone” of the college. Polynesian shows put on by the college in the 1950s led to the college’s construction of the Polynesian Cultural Center, which opened on October 12, 1963 in Lā‘ie. Founded by the Mormon Church, the Polynesian Cultural Center isrun by the college and staffed by students. Over the years the Center has expanded, including a major expansion in 1975, making the site a major O‘ahu attraction. Today the Polynesian Cultural Center encompasses 42 acres (17 ha), including seven theme villages arranged around lagoons. The villages represent various cultures of Polynesia, including the Marquesas, Samoa, Fiji, New Zealand, Tahiti, Tonga, and the Hawaiian Islands. Each theme village has its own unique music, dances, and crafts. Craft demonstrations and other activities are ongoing, including coconut cracking, tree climbing, and fire starting as well as participatory activities such as lei making and rope making. Also regularly scheduled at the Polynesian Cultural Center are shows and films including an IMAX theater that provides quality viewing. The park also features a replica of a typical mission house of the early 1800s. An event called the “Pageant of the Long Canoes” takes place aboard canoe stages on the lagoons. A daily highlight at the Polynesian Cultural Center is the 90-minute post-dinner show, which includes erupting volcanoes and other special effects. About 900,000 people visit the Polynesian Cultural Center each year, making it O‘ahu’s second most visited attraction after the U.S.S. Arizona Memorial. [Polynesian Cultural Center, 808-293-3333; 800-367-7060; 808-293-3005, 55-370 Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. 83), Lā‘ie, www.polynesia.com; 12:30-9, Mon.-Sat. Pageant: 2:30; Polynesian Show: 7:30-9.] Punalu‘u Beach Park Punalu‘u Beach is protected by an offshore reef providing a nice swimming area when the surf is not too big. Be cautious, however, as there may be strong currents, particularly offshore from the mouth of WAIONO Stream. Punalu‘u means “Coral dived for”[33] [Punalu‘u Beach Park, just north of Kahana Bay.] Kahana Valley and Bay / Huilua Fishpond Kahana Valley is about 2 miles (3.2 km) wide and 4 miles (6.4 km) long. The valley is owned by the State of Hawai‘i, which bought it from the Robinson family in 1965. Kahana Valley is an intact Hawaiian ahupua‘a, a traditional Hawaiian land division that follows the natural watershed and extends from the mountains to the sea. Kahana means“Cutting.”[34] In ancient days, Kahana Valley was extensively planted with kalo (Colocasia esculenta, taro), and in recent years numerous important archeological sites have been located throughout the valley. Kahana Valley was planted in sugarcane in the early 1900s and the upper valley was used for military training during World War II. The lower valley is now home to about 30 Hawaiian families. Huilua Fishpond is located on Kahana Bay and fed by freshwater springs. The fishpond is said to have been built by the legendary ancient race of people known as menehune (see Menehune section, Chapter 3). According to Hawaiian legend, the fishpond “...was connected by an underground passage dug by a shark to a pond at Kualoa Point, as fish sometimes appear and disappear and are believed to escape at the Kualoa pond.”[35] Huilua means “Twice joined.”[36] [Kahana State Park, 808-237-7766, Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. 83) at Kahana Bay.] Crouching Lion According to ancient Hawaiian legend, this rock was a Tahitian demigod named Kupua, who was a relative of the volcano goddess Pele. Kupua was said to have been caught in a jealous fight between Pele and her sister Hi‘iaka. The modern name comes from the rock’s resemblance to a crouching lion. [Crouching Lion, just north of Ka‘a‘wa, north of Mile Marker 27.] Ka‘a‘awa The tiny town of Ka‘a‘awa is located just south of Crouching Lion. Fronted by a stone wall is Swanzy Beach Park on 1.5 acres (.6 ha) land donated by Mrs. F. M. (Julie Judd) Swanzy in 1921. Senator Fong’s Plantation Gardens The gardens encompass 725 acres (293 ha), and may be viewed by a narrated 45-minute long tram ride through five separate valleys. These well-maintained gardens include 100 varieties of nuts and fruits. The gardens are owned by former United States Senator Hiram Fong, who served that office until his retirement in 1977. [Senator Fong’s Plantation Gardens, 808-239-6775, 47-285 Pūlama Road, open 10-4 daily. Directions: 1 mile (1.6 km) off Kahekili Highway (Hwy. 83). Kahalu‘u “diving place”****[37]**** Byodo-In / Valley of the Temples Memorial Park Byodo-In, the “Temple of Equality,” is a replica of a 900-year-old temple in Uji, Japan. Dedicated in 1968 and symbolic of the mythical phoenix, the temple was built to commemorate the 100th anniversary of Japanese immigration to the Hawaiian Islands. Nestled beneath the Ko‘olau Range, the vermilion temple houses a 9-foot (2.7-m) tall Buddha lacquered with gold and sitting on a lotus. The site also features a 3-ton (2.7-mton) brass bell that is said to bring peace and good luck to those who ring it. The park’s landscaping includes meditative gardens and a pond with golden koi (carp). Bridges cross over the water, and peacocks roam the grounds. The park also has a gift shop. [Byodo-In / Valley of the Temples Memorial Park, 808-239-8811, 47-200 Kahekili Highway (Hwy. 83). Directions: Located off Kahekili Highway (Hwy. 83), 1½ miles (2.4 km) north of Ha‘ikū Road.] Kāne‘ohe Kāne‘ohe is O‘ahu’s fourth largest city, and Kāne‘ohe Bay is the largest bay in the Hawaiian Islands, stretching from Kualoa Point 7 miles (11 km) south down to Mōkapu Peninsula. Kāne‘ohe means “Bamboo husband,”[38] a name said to originate when “...a woman compared her husband’s cruelty to the cutting edge of a bamboo knife.”[39] Offshore of Kane‘ohe Bay is Moku-o-Lo‘e, or Coconut Island, perhaps best known for being shown in the opening of the television series Gilligan’s Island. In ancient times, Moku-o-Lo‘e was often visited by ali‘i (royalty), including Princess Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop(see Chapter 11, Timeline: 1831: Dec. 9), who planted many niu (Cocos nucifera, coconut palms). This led to the island’s common name, Coconut Island. Today Coconut Island is home to the University of Hawai‘i’s Institute of Marine Biology. Kualoa Regional Park encompasses 153 acres (62 ha) on Kualoa Point. The beach is quite scenic as it is set beneath the cliff called Palikū (“Vertical cliff”[40]). The 3-acre (1.2-ha) Apua Pond on Kualoa Point provides wetland habitat for endangered species such as the ae‘o (Himantopus mexicanus knudseni, Hawaiian black-necked stilt). On the southwest side of Kualoa Point is Mōli‘i Fishpond. Offshore from Kualoa in Kāne‘ohe Bay is Mokoli‘i, also called Chinaman’s Hat. Mokoli‘i means “Little mo‘o,”[41] (“Little lizard”). According to Hawaiian legend, “...the lizard Moko-li‘i was destroyed by the goddess Hi‘iaka; its tail became the islet, its body the flat area near the old sugar mill.”[42] Another Hawaiian legend of Mokoli‘i was stated in an account written by Abraham Fornander (see Appendix 2): “a hero, Ka‘ulu, grabbed the teeth of Moko-li‘i, an evil supernatural who preyed on passers-by, and flew into the sky with him; Moko-li‘i fell down and broke into pieces.”[43] The site’s Hawaiian name Papāle Pākē (Hawaiian for “China Hat”) only came into use after many Chinese arrived in the Hawaiian Islands to work on sugar plantations. Three of the five remaining ancient loko ‘ia (fishponds) on O‘ahu are found on Kāne‘ohe Bay. The two other fishponds are located in Kahana Bay and near Pearl Harbor. The largest of Kāne‘ohe Bay’s fishponds is at He‘eia State Park, where scenes from Karate Kid 2 were filmed. The 88-acre (36-ha) He‘eia Fishpond is enclosed by a 5,000-foot (1,524-m) wall. Set atop Kealohi Point, He‘eia State Park provides great views of the He‘eia Fishpond as well as He‘eia-Kea Harbor. According to legend, “...during a battle with people from Leeward O‘ahu, a tidal wave is said to have he‘e ‘ia (washed) the natives out to sea and back, after which they were victorious, thus fulfilling a prophecy. In ancient times, souls were judged here and divided into two groups: the white, who went to He‘eia-kea, and the black, who went to He‘eia-uli.”[44] [He‘eia State Park, 808-247-3156, Kealohi Point, Kāne‘ohe Bay, open 7:30-6:30 daily.] Ho‘omaluhia Botanical Garden Ho‘omaluhia is O‘ahu’s largest botanical garden, encompassing more than 400 acres (162 ha) above Kāne‘ohe. The park’s many rare and endangered tropical plants are grouped by area of origin. A 32-acre (13-ha) reservoir is accessible by the park’s hiking trails. A visitor center at Ho‘omaluhia Botanical Garden includes exhibits about native plants and animals of the Hawaiian Islands as well as the park’s history—it was built by the United States Army Corp of Engineers to protect the region below against floods. Ho‘omaluhia means “To cause or give peace, protect; to arbitrate between warring parties.”[45] [Ho‘omaluhia Botanical Garden, 808-233-7323, 45-680 Luluku Road, Kāne‘ohe. Directions: Take Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. 83) to Luluku Road 2¼ miles (3.6 km) north of Pali Highway intersection. Take Luluku Road 1½ miles (2.4 km) to the park entrance, open 9-4 daily; guided hikes Sat. at 10, Sun. at 1.] Ulupō Heiau / Kawainui Marsh The stones of Ulopō Heiau extend for a length of about 180 feet (55 m) and are up to 30 feet (9 m) high. Ulopō, which means “Night Inspiration,”[46] is thought to have been a luakini heiau, where human sacrifices were performed. Visible from the trail near the top of Ulopō Heiau is the Kawainui Marsh. A fishpond in ancient times, Kawainui was planted with rice during the 1900s. Today it is once again a wetland area providing valuable native habitat for endangered waterbirds of the Hawaiian Islands, including ae‘o (Himantopus mexicanus knudseni, Hawaiian black-necked stilt); ‘alae ke‘oke (Fulica americana alai, Hawaiian coot); koloa maoli (Anas wyvilliana, Hawaiian duck); and ‘alae ‘ula (Gallinula chloropus sandvicensis, Hawaiian moorhen). [Ulupō Heiau, 1 mile (1.6 km) south of Kailua Road. Directions: From Honolulu, drive up Pali Highway to Uloa Street (the first left after Highway 72 junction); then turn right on Manu Aloha Street, then right on Manuoo Street. Ulupō Heiau is behind the YMCA.] Kailua / Kailua Bay In ancient times, Kailua was home to ali‘i (royalty) and chiefs, and several heiau (sacred places of worship) were located in this region. Today Kailua is a small town of about 36,000, though it is still the largest town on O‘ahu’s windward side. Kailua is lined with great beaches, including Kailua Beach Park at the southeast side of Kailua Bay. O‘ahu’s main windsurfing spot, Kailua Bay is also popular among various other water sports enthusiasts as well as sunbathers and beach walkers. Kailua means “Two seas”[47] The North Shore Hale‘iwa Hale‘iwa is known as the “gateway” to O‘ahu’s north shore. The main street through Hale‘iwa’s is Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. 83). The arched Rainbow Bridge spans over the Anahulu River, which passes alongside the boat harbor that is bordered on each side by beach parks. The North Shore Surf & Cultural Museum is located in the North Shore Marketplace, and exhibits vintage surfboards as well as photographs and videos about surfing. Three beach parks in this area include Kaiaka Bay Beach Park located on Kaiaka Bay, just west of Hale‘iwa is a nice picnic area but not so good for swimming. Hale‘iwa Ali‘i Beach Park is a popular surfing area and the site of numerous surfing contests. Encompassing 20 acres (8 ha) of Waialua Bay. Lifeguards are stationed at Hale‘iwa Beach Park. On the north side of Waialua Bay is Hale‘iwa Beach Park, generally a good swimming area due to the protection provided by a breakwater. The county park has volleyball, basketball, and baseball facilities as well as a nice view of Ka‘ena Point. [North Shore Surf & Cultural Museum, 808-637-8888, 66-250 Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. 83), open 11-6 daily (hours vary).] Mokulē‘ia Beach Mokulē‘ia Beach spans about 6 miles (10 km) from Kaiaka Bay to Ka‘ena Point. Kaiaka means “Shadowed sea,”[48] and Ka‘ena means “The heat.”[49] Also located in this area is Dillingham Airfield, commonly used by skydivers and glider enthusiasts. Across from Dillingham Airfield is Mokulē‘ia Beach Park, with a large grassy area as well as picnic facilities. This is a popular windsurfing area. [Mokulē‘ia, Farrington Highway (Hwy. 930); Dillingham Airfield, 68-760 Farrington Highway (Hwy. 930), Mokulē‘ia.] Waialua Just south of Hale‘iwa is the former sugar plantation town of Waialua. The Waialua Sugar Mill closed its doors in 1996, becoming the last of O‘ahu’s sugar mills to shut down operations. The old Waialua Sugar Mill building now serves the region’s burgeoning coffee industry. Waimea In ancient times the Waimea region was heavily populated, and Waimea Valley was planted with kalo (Colocasia esculenta, taro) as well as other Polynesian-introduced and native food crops. At an elevation of about 300 feet (91 m) above Waimea town is Pu‘u-o-mahuka (“Hill of escape”[50]), O‘ahu’s largest heiau. Pu‘u-o-mahuka’s terraced stone walls overlook Waimea Valley and Waimea Bay as well as the coastline stretching to Ka‘ena Point in the distance. Pu‘u-o-mahuka was a luakini heiau, where human sacrifices were performed. The terraced, stacked stone walls of Pu‘u-o-mahuka are now just a couple of feet high, and form three adjoining enclosures that span a total of more than 550 feet (168 m). According to Place Names of Hawaii(1974), the heiau is “...credited to Menehune, and a place where chiefesses gave birth. It was probably at this heiau that three of Vancouver’s crewmen were offered in sacrifice in 1794. The images here are said to have been destroyed by order of Kamehameha II (Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho) in 1819.”[51] Pu‘u-o-mahuka Heiau is now designated as a National Historic Landmark. Waimea Bay Beach Park on beautiful Waimea Bay is one of the north shore’s most popular beaches, and famous for its giant winter waves. Swimming and snorkeling is good during the summer months, but for much of the year the waters of Waimea Bay are for the experienced only. (See Eddie Aikau section, Chapter 3). Located across from Waimea Bay Beach Park is Waimea Falls Park, a cultural theme park and botanical garden that includes about 6,000 species of plants, many of them rare and endangered, and arranged by theme along a trail leading to a waterfall up Waimea Valley. Also located in the park are ancient Hawaiian archaeological sites as well as modern replicas of traditional thatched structures. Hula, cliff diving, and Hawaiian games are featured at the park. Pūpūkea Beach Park is a lava rock and white sand beach located along Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. 83). Pūpūkea means “White shell.”[52] The waters offshore of Pūpūkea Beach Park are designated as a Marine Life Conservation District. Shark’s Cove is on the north side of Pūpūkea Beach Park while the middle area is known as Old Quarry, where jagged rocks and tidepools are exposed at low tide. Rock ledges rise above the sea’s surface at Three Tables, on the south side of the park. Three Tables is a great snorkeling and diving spot when the water is calm during summer months. Restroom facilities are located in front of Old Quarry. [Pu‘u-o-mahuka Heiau—Directions: Turn mauka (toward the mountains) off Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. 83) in Waimea at Pūpūkea Rd. (Foodland market is on the corner); go up about ½-mile (.8 km); a sign marks the turnoff to the heiau; drive another ¾ mile (1.2 km) to the heiau.] [Pūpūkea Beach Park, Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. 83).] [Waimea Falls Park, 808-638-8511, 59-864 Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. 83), open 10-5:30 daily.] ‘Ehukai Beach Park / Banzai Pipeline ‘Ehukai Beach is best known as the site of the Banzai Pipeline surf break, located at the southern end of the park. Pipeline’s hollow-breaking waves are world renown for their large size and tubular shape. Some of the best surfers in the world come to Pipeline each year to compete. ‘Ehukai means “Sea spray.”[53] [‘Ehukai Beach Park, Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. 83); enter across from Sunset Beach Elementary School.] Sunset Beach Park Sunset Beach is a legendary big-wave surfing spot, and also a nice white-sand beach for sunbathing (though the sand may get a bit steep during the winter months). The point at the northern end of Sunset Beach is known as Backyards, and is a popular windsurfing spot. Lifeguards are stationed at Sunset Beach, and restrooms and showers are available. Nearshore currents along the beach may be dangerous to casual swimmers, so always check with the lifeguards before venturing into the water, especially during the winter months when the surf is biggest. [Sunset Beach Park, Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. 83).] Kawela Bay Kawela means “The heat.”[54] [Kawela Bay, off Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. 83).] Kaihalulu Point Kaihalulu means “Roaring sea.”[55] Central O‘ahu Wahiawā Botanical Garden Wahiawā Botanical Garden is a city park encompassing 27 acres (11 ha), with hiking trails and at least 60 varieties of stately old trees. The park also has a notable fern collection. The park had its origins in the 1920s when the Hawai‘i Sugar Planters’ Association used the site for forestry experiments. Wahiawā means “Place of noise.”[56] [Wahiawā Botanical Garden, 808-621-7321, 1396 California Avenue, Wahiawā, 1 mile (1.6 m) east of Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. 80), open 9-4 daily.] Kolekole Pass Kolekole Pass reaches an elevation of 1,724 feet (525 m) and is located above Schofield Barracks. Japanese fighter planes flew through Kolekole Pass on December 7, 1941 to attack Pearl Harbor, an event that entered the United States into World War II. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1941, Dec. 7.) [Kolekole Pass, Central O‘ahu. Directions: Enter Foote Gate just south of Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. 99) on Kunia Road (Hwy. 750). Take first left (Road A), then the first right (Lyman Road).]
Kaua‘i The Garden Isle Part I: Overview, and Cultural / Historical Sites and Attractions Overview of Kaua‘i Land Area: 552.3 square miles (1,430.5 sq. km). Size Comparison: 4th largest Hawaiian Island. Island Emblem: Mokihana—Fruit of Mokihana (Pelea anisata). Highest Elevation: 5,243 feet (1,598 m), at the summit of Mt. Kawaikini. Official Nickname: The Garden Isle. Island Color: Purple KAUA‘I MINI-DIRECTORY Kaua‘i Chamber of Commerce, 808-245-7363, www.kauaichamber.org. Kaua‘i Visitors Bureau, 808-245-3971, www.kauaivisitorsbureau.com; [email protected]. Kaua‘i Visitor Information, 800-262-1400. County of Kaua‘i Office of Tourism, www.Kauai-hawaii.com. State Camping Permits, 808-274-3444, www.state.hi.us/dlnr/dsp/dsp.html. County Camping Permits, 808-241-6660, www.kauaigov.org/parks.htm. [Illustration: Map—Kaua‘i] Kaua‘i is the oldest of the eight main Hawaiian Islands, having formed about five million years ago. The age of the island accounts for its many stunning features, from the deeply carved valleys of Waimea Canyon to the steep cliffs and spires of the Nāpali Coast. Kaua‘i is about 33 miles (53 km) long and 25 miles (40 km) wide, with about 90 miles (145 km) of coastline, including the most beach per mile of coastline of any of the eight main Hawaiian Islands. Kaua‘i is known for its scenic, rugged mountains as well as its pristine, white-sand beaches. Kaua‘i is also known for resisting the rule of King Kamehameha I long after he conquered the other Hawaiian Islands. In 1810, Kaua‘i’s paramount ruler, King Kaumuali‘i, ceded the island of Kaua‘i to King Kamehameha to avoid impending war against Kamehameha’s powerful army. King Kamehameha had twice earlier attempted to invade Kaua‘i, but was not successful (see Chapter 11, Timeline: 1796, April; 1804.) An ancient proverb tells of Kaua‘i’s warriors: “O Kaua‘i nui moku lehua, ‘āina nui makekau,”(“Great Kaua‘i, isle of warriors and land of men ever on the defense”).[57] Today Kaua‘i has a resident population of about 58,000 people. The island’s major industry is tourism, but agricultural enterprises also bring significant income. Kaua‘i’s main agricultural products are sugarcane, coffee, papaya, pineapple, guava, and tropical flowers. The 5,148-foot (1,569-m) summit of Kaua‘i’s Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale is one of the rainiest spots in the world. The single rainiest year on record was in 1982 when 681 inches (1,730 cm) of rain were recorded at the mountain’s peak. Wai‘ale‘ale’s average annual rainfall is 451 inches (1,146 cm), the highest in the world. This annual average rainfall exceeds even India’s Cherrapunji Village, which received 905 inches (2,299 cm) of rainfall in 1861, but has an average annual rainfall of just 428 inches (1,087 cm). Scientists think Wai‘ale‘ale’s actual rainfall may be even more than 451 inches (1,146 cm), because researchers have seen the high winds at the summit blow the rain nearly horizontally over the gauges. Automated gauges atop Wai‘ale‘ale now relay weather information via satellite. Annual Kaua‘i Events include: ØWaimea Town Celebration(February, 335-2824) ØKaua‘i Marathon(March, 826-6244) ØPrince Kūhiō Celebration of the Arts(March, 742-3770) ØBanana Poka Festival (May) ØKaua‘i Hula Exhibition(June, 335-6466) ØKōloa Plantation Days Celebration(July, www.koloaplantationdays.com) ØKaua‘i Polynesian Festival(August, http://kauaipolynesianfestival.50megs.com) ØKaua‘i Mokihana Festival(September, www.kauai.net/mokihana) ØEōe Emmalani I Alaka‘i Festival (October, 335-9975) ØPGA Grand Slam of Golf (December, www.pga.com)
Kaua‘i Cultural / Historical Sites and Attractions Līhu‘e Kaua‘i Museum Kaua‘i Historical Society Grove Farm Homestead Plantation Museum Nāwiliwili Bay and Harbor / Kalapakī Bay Nāwiliwili Park Kalapakī Beach Ninini Point Lighthouse Ahukini Recreation Pier State Park Alekoko (Menehune) Fishpond Kilohana Southern Kaua‘i Knudsen Gap / Tree Tunnel Mt. Kāhili Hā‘upu Ridge (Hoary Head) Kōloa Kōloa Heritage Trail Po‘ipū Po‘ipū Beach Po‘ipū Beach Park Nukumoi Point Brennecke’s Beach Wai‘ōhi Beach (Po‘ipū Beach) Moir Gardens Prince Kūhiō Park / Hō‘ai Heiau Prince Kūhiō Monument Spouting Horn National Tropical Botanical Garden—McBryde Garden / Allerton Garden National Tropical Botanical Garden Visitor Center Shipwreck Beach (Keoniloa Bay) Makawehi Point Māhā‘ulepū Beach and Coastline Kawailoa Bay Lāwa‘i The 88 Places of Kobo Daishi Kalāheo Kukuiolono Park Hanapēpē / Port Allen Kaua‘i Coffee Museum and Visitor Center Hanapēpē Valley Overlook Salt Ponds Eastern Kaua‘i Lydgate Beach Park Kamalani Playground Nukoli‘i Beach Wailua Important Cultural Sites of Wailuanuiaho‘ano Hauloa Heiau Hikina-a-ka-lā Na Ki‘i Pōhaku Alakukui Point Kukui Heiau Māla‘e Heiau Holoholokū Heiau Bellstone Poli‘ahu Heiau Wailua River / Wailua Falls Fern Grotto Smith’s Tropical Paradise ‘Ōpaeka‘a Falls Kamūkila Hawaiian Village Keāhua Arboretum Nounou Ridge (Sleeping Giant) Kapa‘a Kapa‘a Beach Park Keālia Beach Anahola Hōkū‘alele Kalalea (Kong Mountain) Larsen’s Beach Northern Kaua‘i Na ‘Āina Kai Botanical Garden Guava Kai Plantation Kīlauea Town Christ Memorial Episcopal Church Kīlauea Point Lighthouse Kīlauea Point National Wildlife Refuge Mōkōlea Point Crater Hill Moku‘ae‘ae Islet Albatross Tagging Project Native Bird Species seen at Kīlauea Point National Wildlife Refuge Kauapea Beach (Secret Beach) Kalihiwai Bay Kalihiwai Beach ‘Anini Princeville Airport Princeville Princeville Resort Queen’s Bath Hanalei Valley Hanalei Valley Lookout Hanalei Bridge Hanalei Town Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church Wai‘oli Mission Hall Wai‘oli Church Belfry Wai‘oli Mission House Hanalei Poi Company Hanalei Pier Hanalei Bay Black Pot Beach Park Lumaha‘i Wainiha Wainiha Powerhouse Road Hā‘ena Mākua (Tunnels) Beach National Tropical Botanical Garden—Limahuli North Shore Caves Manini-holo Waikapala‘e (Blue Room) Wai-a-kanaloa Cave Kē‘ē Beach / Hā‘ena State Park Hula Heiau Ka-ulu-Paoa Ka-ulu-o-Laka Kilioe Northwest Kaua‘i—The Nāpali Coast Ahupua‘a in the Moku of Nāpali Hanakāpī‘ai Beach The Nāpali Coast The Story of Ko‘olau, Pi‘ilani, and Kaleimanu in Kalalau Valley Southwestern Kaua‘i Waimea Town / Waimea Bay Captain James Cook Monument Hofgaard Park Lucy Wright Beach Park First Hawaiian Bank Waimea Theatre Waimea Christian and Hawaiian Foreign Church Menehune Ditch (Kīkī-a-Ola) Fort Elizabeth Barking Sands Airfield & Pacific Missile Range Barking Sands Beach Major’s Bay Polihale State Park Queen’s Pond Waimea Canyon / Kōke‘e State Park Pu‘u-ka-Pele Lookout Pu‘u-hinahina Lookout Alaka‘i Swamp Kōke‘e Natural History Museum Kalalau Lookout Pu‘u-o-Kila Lookout Pihea Trail Kilohana Overlook Awa‘awapuhi Trail Nu‘alolo Trail Lolo Vista Point
Kaua‘i Cultural / Historical Sites and Attractions Līhu‘e Līhu‘e is Kaua‘i’s county seat, and home to various county offices as well as the island’s main airport. Līhu‘e is also Kaua‘i’s commercial center, and home to the island’s main harbor at Nāwiliwili Bay. Līhu‘e’s rise as a population center began in 1837 when Kaua‘i’s Governor Kaikio‘ewa moved his capital from Waimea to Līhu‘e to begin planting sugarcane. In 1849, the Līhu‘e Plantation was established, and milling began in 1851. Nāwiliwili Harbor opened in 1930, and the Līhu‘e Airport opened in 1950. Līhu‘e means “Cold chill.”[58] Līhu‘e’s main thoroughfare is Rice Street, the location of the War Memorial & Convention Center, the Līhu‘e Shopping Center, and the Kaua‘i Museum. Kaua‘i Community College is located just off Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50)near Puhi. The Kaua‘i Museum is located on Rice Street in the impressive former town library building, which is notable for its stately Greco-Roman (Greek Revival) facade. The museum displays many ancient Hawaiian (and Kauaian) artifacts with information about Hawaiian history and culture. Photographs show Kaua‘i’s post-contact period including the eras of rice and sugarcane. A gift shop sells books and a variety of other items. Just next door is the Kaua‘i Historical Society, another repository of cultural and historical information. Membership in the Historical Society is open to the public, allowing access to manuscripts and photos. Heading east on Rice Street leads to two sizeable shopping complexes, Harbor Mall and Anchor Cove, as well asKalapakī Beach (see below). [Līhu‘e, Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56) and Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50).] [Kaua‘i Museum, 4428 Rice Street, Līhu‘e, 808-245-6931, 9-4 M-F, 10-4 Sat., www.kauaimuseum.org.] [Kaua‘i Historical Society, 808-245-3373, 4396 Rice Street, Suite 101, Līhu‘e, appointment required. Mailing address: P.O. Box1778, Līhu‘e, HI, 96766, www.kauaihistoricalsociety.org.] Grove Farm Homestead Plantation Museum Grove Farm is located just south of Līhu‘e and just north of Nāwiliwili Harbor. Grove Farm’s 80-acre (32-ha) living museum includes the original relatively sparse 1864 cottage of George Norton Wilcox, and the two-story main house that George provided for his brother Sam and his family. The main house was later home to George’s niece, Mabel Wilcox, who established the museum at Grove Farm in the 1970s. The home features floors made from the native ‘ōhi‘a lehua (Metrosideros species) as well as a staircase fashioned from koa (Acaciakoa). George Norton Wilcox was the second son of pioneering Wai‘oli missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox who served at Wai‘oli on Kaua‘i’s north shore from 1846 to 1869 (see Hanalei below). The original Grove Farm home was built in 1864, was later the home of Mabel Wilcox, the niece of George Norton Wilcox. Notable features at Grove Farm include the plantation home estate’s period furniture and Hawaiian quilts. The tour includes the plantation cottage as well as a guest house, workers quarters, tropical gardens as well as orchards and pasture land. Tours are given by reservation only. [Grove Farm Homestead, 808-245-3202, Nāwiliwili Road, Līhu‘e, tours M,W,Th 10 and 1, by reservation. Directions: Look for a small sign marking the entrance on the north (Līhu‘e) side of Nāwiliwili Road (Hwy. 58) about 1¼ miles (2 km) from Nāwiliwili Harbor.] Nāwiliwili Bay and Harbor / Kalapakī Bay Nāwiliwili Bay at the south end of Līhu‘e is Kaua‘i’s major deep-water port and commercial harbor. A long breakwater protects the port, which is used by fishing boats, whale-watching boats, cruise ships, container ships, and United States Navy vessels. On New Year’s Eve in 1941, a Japanese submersible shelled the area. Nāwiliwili Park is located on the north side of Nāwiliwili Bay. Kalapakī Beach is located adjacent to Nāwiliwili Harbor, and in front of the Kaua‘i Lagoons Resort, which boasts of having the largest swimming pool in the Hawaiian Islands. Kalapakī’s gentle surf and a sandy bottom make it a popular swimming beach. [Nāwiliwili Harbor, Wa‘apā Road, Līhu‘e.] Ninini Point Lighthouse Ninini Point Lighthouse was constructed in 1932 at the north end of Nāwiliwili Bay. The lighthouse is 86 feet (26 m) tall, and rises to 118 feet (36 m) above sea level. Next to the lighthouse is the remaining stone foundation of the lightkeeper’s guest quarters. The visibility of the lighthouse beacon extends for 17 miles (27 km). Ninini means“Pour.”[59] Exiting from the lighthouse area by the right fork in the road (just after the parking area) leads to Ahukini Recreation Pier State Park, located at the south end of Hanamā‘ulu Bay. The breakwater and pier were constructed in the 1920s by sugar plantation owners, and were used until 1945 when a breakwater was constructed at Nāwiliwili, which then became Kaua‘i’s primary port. The pier at Ahukini was taken down in 1978, and all that remains are cement pillars and the old framework, and a wooden walkway is now used by local fishermen. Hanamā‘ulu Bay Beach Park, located at the head of Hanamā‘ulu Bay, is a deep bay partially protected by a boulder breakwater. [Ninini Point Lighthouse, north end of Nāwiliwili Bay. Directions: Take turnoff from Kapule Highway (Hwy. 51) between Rice Street and Ahukini Road (Hwy. 570), which leads to Līhu‘e Airport. The turnoff, about ½-mile (.8 km) south of Ahukini Road, goes around the golf course and then turns to dirt after about 2 miles (3.2 km), ending at the Ninini Point Lighthouse.] Alekoko (Menehune) Fishpond / Hulē‘ia National Wildlife Refuge The Alekoko Fishpond, commonly called Menehune Fishpond, is located just above Nāwiliwili Harbor on a bend in the Hulē‘ia Stream. Constructed of earth and faced with stone, the 900-foot (274-m) levee was built for the purpose of trapping and raising fish. The walls of Alekoko Fishpond are about 4 feet (1.2 m) thick and 5 feet (1.5 m) high. In the 1800s, two of the three gaps in the levee were filled in by rice farmers. Building the massive Alekoko Fishpond was a remarkable engineering feat that is attributed to the legendary ancient race of people known as menehune (see Menehune section, Chapter 3). The huge aquaculture facility is said to have been built in a single moonlit night by a 25-mile (40-km) long, double row of menehune who passed rocks to each other all the way from the source of the stones, the Makaweli Quarry in Waimea. Makaweli means “Fearful features.”[60] Hulē‘ia National Wildlife Refuge encompasses 238 acres (96 ha) and was established in 1973. The Refuge, which is not open to the public, provides habitat for numerous endangered Hawaiian waterbirds, including stilts, coots, and ducks. The valley was the site of scenes in Raiders of the Lost Ark, including an opening scene escape by Indiana Jones. A small lookout can be reached by going ½-mile (.8 km) up Hulemalū Road. [Alekoko (Menehune Fishpond). Directions: Take Nāwiliwili Road (Hwy. 58) or Kapule Highway (Hwy. 51) to Wa‘apā Road (which becomes Hulemalū Road) to the Overlook.] Kilohana Located just west of Līhu‘e, on the mauka (mountain) side of Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50), Kilohana Plantation Estates’ 16,000-square-foot (1,486-sq.-m) Tudor mansion was built in 1935 in the English country house tradition. The home was designed by renowned architect Mark Potter for Gaylord Parke Wilcox and his wife Ethel. Gaylord and Ethel Wilcox moved to Kaua‘i from Honolulu in 1936 when Gaylord took over the management of Grove Farm Plantation (see above). Considered Kaua‘i’s first “mansion,” Kilohana was the most expensive home on the island at the time it was built. Gaylord and Ethel Wilcox had the new house constructed after tearing down the previous home on the site. The old home was owned by Albert Spencer Wilcox and his wife Emma Napoleon Mahelona, who lived there from 1896 to 1935. Albert had purchased the land from the Līhu‘e Plantation when he worked as their manager. After construction was finished, the Wilcox’s furnished the home with a large order from the high-class Gump’s store of San Francisco, and many of these furnishings remain in the home. The self-sufficient Kilohana estate included a cattle ranch and a dairy herd as well as a milking shed, piggery, poultry house, carriage house, and horse stables. The estate also grew vegetables, taro, coffee, and various flowers. Kilohana became a commercial venture in 1985 with the opening of Gaylord’s Restaurant, a garden courtyard restaurant. Various shops on the site sell local arts and crafts and specialty items. On display at the 35-acre (14-ha) site are rare Hawaiian artifacts as well as historic cottages, flower gardens, and agricultural exhibits. Carriage rides pulled by Clydesdales allow tours of the estate’s grounds, including the gardens, livestock, and buildings that once housed workers for the plantation. There is also a Sugarcane History Tour carriage ride, and a weekly lū‘au (traditional Hawaiian feast). [Kilohana Plantation Estates, 808-245-5608, 3-2087 Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50), Līhu‘e; located between Kukui Grove Shopping Center and Kaua‘i Community College, 1.5 miles (2.4 km) west of Līhu‘e on mauka side (mountain) side of Kaumuali‘i Highway. Open 9:30-9:30, Mon-Sat.; 9:30-5, Sun. Clydesdales horse-drawn carriage tour: 11-6:00, Mon.-Sat: 11-5 Sun. Sugarcane history tour: 246-9529; Historic high tea: Mon. and Sat. at 2 p.m. by reservation; Lū‘au: Tues, Thurs, 5 p.m.; [email protected].] Southern Kaua‘i Knudsen Gap / Tree Tunnel Going south from Līhu‘e between Mile Markers 6 and 8, Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50) travels through Knudsen Gap, between Mt. Kāhili and Hā‘upu Ridge (also called Hoary Head). The 3,089-foot (942-m) peak of Mt. Kāhili is the end of a ridge that extends all the way from the center of Kaua‘i. The Knudsen Gap gets its name from Norwegian immigrant Valdemar Knudsen, a sugar planter who owned property in the area. A turnoff on Maluhia Road (Hwy. 520) leads south to Kōloa town. Just off of Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50) on Maluhia Road is the mile long Tree Tunnel, a double row of eucalyptus trees that were planted in 1911 as part of a community effort led by Alexander McBryde. The trees were donated by Walter Duncan McBryde in the early 1900s, and planted by local residents. Kōloa Kōloa was once Kaua‘i’s main port of entry and a favorite stop for Yankee whalers as well as interisland steamers. Kōloa was also the site of the first successful commercial sugar mill in the Hawaiian Islands, the Kōloa Plantation, which was established in 1835 by Ladd & Company. The land for the sugar plantation had originally been leased from King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli). Kōloa soon became a thriving plantation town and Kōloa Plantation survived under various owners until McBryde Sugar Company shut the plantation down in 1996. The remnants of the smokestack of Kōloa Plantation’s mill may be seen just off the main road near the center of town. Also at the site is a sculpture memorializing the different ethnicities that worked on the region’s plantations. After World War II, Kōloa’s population and business climate declined. Today Kōloa’s refurbished old buildings house a variety of shops and restaurants. Often called Old Kōloa Town, the row of shops, eateries, and other buildings includes numerous historic structures, such as the 1910 Jodo MissionBuilding. Historical plaques in the front of the buildings describe old Kōloa. Every July, Kōloa’s residents celebrate Kōloa Plantation Days, which include a parade as well as a town fair. TheKōloa Heritage Trail is a 7½-mile (12 km) route with bronze pedestals describing the historical and cultural significance of 13 sites in Kōloa and Po‘ipū. [Kōloa, Maluhia Road (Hwy. 520).] Po‘ipū Po‘ipū is located to the south of Kōloa on Kaua‘i’s “sunny south side.” Known for its white-sand beaches, clear blue waters, and sheltered coves, Po‘ipū is one of Kaua‘i’s main resort destinations. There is no central “downtown Po‘ipū,” but the area is home to the Sheraton Kaua‘i Resort as well as Kiahuna Plantation, and a shopping center. The area commonly known as Po‘ipū Beach spans from Po‘ipū Beach Park (off Po‘ipū Road at the end of Ho‘owili Road) west to the Sheraton Kaua‘i Resort, and encompasses three crescent-shaped beaches separated by rocky points. The Po‘ipū area contains several popular surfing and bodysurfing spots as well as great swimming and snorkeling locations, including one of the island’s best beaches for children. A lifeguard station and a nice swimming beach make Po‘ipū Beach Park one of the most popular south shore destinations for local kids and families. Po‘ipū Beach has also been a favorite site for Kaua‘i’s ‘ilio-holo-i-ka-uaua (Monachus schauinslandi, Hawaiian monk seals) to give birth, and more than once in recent years an area of the beach was closed off to protect the monk seal mothers and babies. Information about recent birthing activity may be checked through the Kaua‘i Monk Seal Watch Program at the internet site: www.kauaimonkseal.com. (See HawaiianMonk Seals, Chapter 6.) The western side of Po‘ipū Beach Park includes a spit of sand that ends at the rocky islet of Nukumoi Point. The spit of sand leading to the point was created by sand washed up by waves coming around either side. This type of sand formation is known as a tombolo, and one of just three on Kaua‘i (the other two are at Kīpū Kai and Kīlauea’s Crater Hill.) On the west side of Po‘ipū is the tombolo is a well-protected beach that is great for kids. Snorkeling is better on the east side of the tombolo, where the coral reef provides habitat for various colorful reef fish. Tide pools near Nukumoi Point may be explored at low tide. This is a wonderful snorkeling area, with lots of angelfishes, (Pomacanthidae), Moorish idols (Zanclus cornutus), damselfishes (Pomacentridae), tangs (Acanthuridae), and butterflyfishes (Chaetodontidae). Across the street is Nukumoi Beach & Surf Company, which rents snorkeling gear as well as body boards and surfboards. Just east of Po‘ipū Beach Park is Brennecke’s Beach(off Ho‘onē Road), a favorite spot of experienced bodyboarders. About 150 yards (137 m) west of Po‘ipū Beach Park, past a rocky point, is Wai‘ōhi Beach (also called Po‘ipū Beach), a popular surfing and swimming beach. [Po‘ipū—Directions: From Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50), take Maluhia Road (Hwy. 520) or Kōloa Road (Hwy. 530) to Po‘ipū Road (Maluhia Road first doglegs to the right on Kōloa Road). To get to Po‘ipū Beach Park, take Po‘ipū Road to Ho‘owili Road and go south about 1/10 mile (160 m).] Moir Gardens Moir Gardens encompass 35 acres (14 ha) across Po‘ipū Road (Hwy. 520) from the Po‘ipū Village Shopping Center. Moir Gardens originated in 1938 as the personal gardens of Hector Moir (a sugar plantation manager) and his wife. The expansive gardens, including many exotic cacti and succulents, have grown larger over the years, and are now surrounded by the Kiahuna Plantation Resort and Plantation Gardens Restaurant, located in the former Moir residence, the plantation manor house, built in the early 1930s and now refurbished with cherry wood floors and trimmed with native koa(Acacia koa). The home was the plantation manor house for the Kōloa Plantation, and Hector Moir became manager of the Kōloa Sugar Company in 1933. Hector’s wife was Alexandra “Sandie” Knudsen, and her father gave the newlyweds the house as a wedding gift. The Moir’s hosted many social events in the home, which became a center of plantation society. [Plantation Garden Restaurant, 808-742-2216, 2253 Po‘ipū Road, Kōloa.] Prince Kūhiō Park / Hō‘ai Heiau Prince Kūhiō Park is a 3-acre (1.2-ha) park located on Lāwa‘i Road. The park features a pond, terraced stone walls, and Hō‘ai Heiau. The Prince Kūhiō Monument in the park pays tribute to Hawai‘i’s second delegate to congress, Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana‘ole Pi‘ikoi. Prince Kūhiō was born on March 26, 1871 to David Kahelepouli Pi‘ikoi and Princess Esther Kinoiki Kekaulike near Hō‘ai Bay at Kukui‘ula (“Red light”[61]) west of Kōloa, Kaua‘i. Prince Kūhiō was the nephew of Queen Kapi‘olani (sister of Princess Esther Kinoiki Kekaulike), who adopted him, and the great grandson of Kaumuali‘i, the paramount ruler of Kaua‘i who ceded the island to King Kamehameha I in 1810 to avoid war. Prince Kūhiō was born in the Kōloa region of Kaua‘i’s southern coast near Hō‘ai Bay in a grass house at an ancient fishing village called Kukui‘ula (“Red light”[62]). He was the youngest of three boys, all considered ali‘i (royalty) due to their royal descent from Kaua‘i’s paramount ruler (king) Kaumuali‘i. One brother, Edward Keali‘ihonui, died in his teens. Jonah Kūhiō and his other brother David Kawānanakoa were adopted into the childless royal family of King Kalākaua and Queen Kapi‘olani after the boys’ father, David Kahalepouli Pi‘ikoi, died when Kūhiō was ten. Kalaniana‘ole, means “The royal chief without measure,”[63] referring to the prince’s noble heredity, which includes the royal lineage of Kūhiō’s mother, Esther Kinoiki Kekaulike, who was appointed governor of Hawai‘i Island by King Kalākaua. When Kūhiō was 13 years old, King Kalākaua declared Jonah and his brother David princes by royal decree with the intent that they would carry on the Kalākaua dynasty. King Kalākaua and Queen Kapi‘olani held an official coronation on February 12, 1883 at ‘Iolani Palace, and the jeweled royal crowns were carried by Prince Kūhiō and his brother DavidKawānanakoa. Due to his cherubic and handsome looks, Prince Kūhiō was sometimes referred to as Prince Cupid, a name given to him in his youth by his French teacher. Prince Kūhiō attended the Royal School and Punahou School on O‘ahu, and then attended St. Matthew’s College in California before enrolling in the Royal Agricultural College in Cirencester, England. He then graduated from an English business school. Prince Kūhiō was a master of the traditional Hawaiian art of lua (ancient Hawaiian form of martial arts). He also competed on school teams in the sports of football and track. In 1884, Kūhiō was appointed to the Cabinet of the Hawaiian Kingdom by Kalākau to administer the Department of the Interior. With the support of King Kalākaua, Prince Kūhiō studied Japanese culture and government for one year inJapan. The king hoped the Prince would find a royal Japanese bride and form a marital alliance between the Hawaiian Islands and Japan. Prince Kūhiō was named as presumptive heir to the throne by Queen Lili‘uokalani after she ascended to the throne in 1891, making Kūhiō the last royally-designated heir. After he returned to the Hawaiian Islands just before the Hawaiian monarchy was overthrown in 1893, Prince Kūhiō worked to restore Queen Lili‘uokalani to the throne. In 1895 at the age of 24, Prince Kūhiō participated in a royalist uprising (a counter-revolution) against the Republicof Hawai‘i, and was arrested by the Provisional Government, charged with treason, and imprisoned for one year. After his release from prison, Prince Kūhiō married Elizabeth Kahanu Ka‘auwai, a full-blooded Hawaiian chiefess who was the daughter of a Maui chief, and they took a trip to Africa. Disheartened by the events in the Hawaiian Islands, Prince Kūhiō joined the British Army in South Africa in the Boer War. Prince Kūhiō was next in line to ascend to the throne after Princess Ka‘iulani passed away in 1899, but the restoration of the monarchy became more unlikely with each passing year. Prince Kūhiō and his wife returned to the Hawaiian Islands in 1901. He helped organize the Republican Party in 1902 and that same year he was elected as the Territory of Hawai‘i’s second, non-voting delegate to the United States Congress (after Robert Wilcox), serving in the position for a total of 20 years (ten, two-year terms) until he died in 1922. Prince Kūhiō helped to found the Order of Kamehameha in 1903 and the Hawaiian Civic Club of Honolulu in 1918. The Civic Club’s tradition of community involvement continues today. Due to his political efforts to help Hawaiians and promote self-sufficiency among the native population, Prince Kūhiō was known as Ke Ali‘i Maka‘āinana, which means “Chief of the Commoners,” “Citizen Prince,” or “Prince of the People.” Throughout his life, Prince Kūhiō worked to preserve the traditions and culture of native Hawaiians. One of Prince Kūhiō’s legacies was his inspired involvement in the passing of the Hawaiian Homestead Commission Act, which was enacted on July 9, 1921 to provide low-cost homestead and farming land to Hawaiians with at least 50% native Hawaiian ancestry based on blood quantum. A total of 203,500 acres (82,354 ha) was designated as “available lands” for the program, but the sugar companies had lobbied to exclude all areas that were not used for sugar, which included most of the best agricultural land in the Hawaiian Islands. No money was available to develop the second-tier parcels and thus most of the lands were not used. During the first 70 years after the passage of Hawaiian Homestead Commission Act of 1920, just 3,000 families received lands and many people who were on the original list of applications passed away before receiving land. Of his political efforts, Prince Kūhiō stated, “The legislation proposed seeks to place the Hawaiian back on the soil, so that the valuable and sturdy traits of that race, peculiarly adapted to the islands, shall be preserved to posterity.”[64] Prince Kūhiō’s home was called Pualeilani, which means “Flower from the wreath of heaven.” The home was located across Kalākaua Avenue from Kūhiō Beach Park. Prince Kūhiō passed away due to heart disease on January 7, 1922 at the age of 50. He was given the last state funeral held for a Hawaiian ali‘i (royalty), and was laid to rest at the Royal Mausoleum in O‘ahu’s Nu‘uanu Valley. Prince Kūhiō Park is located near the Prince Kūhiō’s birthplace on Kaua‘i’s southern shore west of Kōloa. The park features a pond and terraced stone walls, Hō‘ai Heiau, and a statue of the prince that was unveiled on June 17, 1928 with about 10,000 people in attendance. Prince Kūhiō’s life is celebrated with an annual state holiday each year on Prince Kūhiō Day, the prince’s birthday, March 26. Prince Kūhiō Day is traditionally a day of canoe races and other local events, including a ceremony at PrinceKūhiō Park on Kaua‘i. Kūhiō Beach Park in Waikīkī is named after Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana‘ole Pi‘ikoi, whose home fronting the beach was torn down in 1936. (See Kūhiō Beach Park; and Statue of Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana‘ole in O‘ahu section, Chapter 2;Prince Kūhiō Park/Hō‘ai Heiau in Kaua‘i section, Chapter 2; and Chapter 11: Timeline: 1871, March 26 forBiographical Sketchof Prince Kūhiō.) [PrinceKūhiō Park / Hō‘ai Heiau, Lāwa‘i Road, ½-mile (.8 km) from Po‘ipū Road (Hwy. 520). Directions: As you near the coast on Po‘ipū Road (Hwy. 520), past Mile Marker 4, the road forks. The left fork leads to Po‘ipū. The right fork, Lāwa‘i Road, leads to Prince Kūhiō Park and Spouting Horn.] Spouting Horn The natural rock formation known as the Spouting Horn blowhole is located on Lāwa‘i Road on Kaua‘i’s south side, to the west of Prince Kūhiō Park. Waves smashing into a lava shelf on the shoreline are funneled up through an ancient lava tube, resulting in a geyser effect similar to Old Faithful. Spouting Horn’s water shoots up to 50 feet (15 m) high, producing a loud noise as the water is compressed into the hole in the rock and then released. Legend has it that the groaning noise comes from a mo‘o (lizard) named Lehu who is trapped within the rock and moans for the loss of his sisters on Ni‘ihau. [Spouting Horn, Lāwa‘i Beach Road, west of Pō‘ipu.] National Tropical Botanical Garden—McBryde Garden / Allerton Garden Chartered by the United States government in 1964, the National Tropical Botanical Garden at Lāwa‘i includes an Herbarium with some 27,000 tropical flora specimens. The preserve encompasses 186 acres (75 ha), with another 100 acres (40 ha) near the coast. This coastal area is now known as Allerton Garden, and was originally owned by Queen Emma in the 1870s. Queen Emma visited the estate in 1870-1871 with an entourage of about 100 retainers and servants. They stayed at the Queen’s 4,200-acre (1,700-ha) Lāwa‘i estate, which had been deeded to her by her aunt, Hikoni. The estate encompassed the entire ahupua‘a (natural watershed land division) of Lāwa‘i. During Queen Emma’s 1870 visit to Kaua‘i, she journeyed up to the highlands forests of Kōke‘e and the Alaka‘i Swamp with her sizable retinue including hula dancers and musicians, venturing as far as the Kilohana Lookout. (SeeKōke‘e State Park section.) In honor of her journey, the Queen renamed her Lāwa‘i estate Mauna Kilohana. Queen Emma’s large frame house had a thatched roof, and was situated on a hill on the Kōloa side of the valley overlooking Lāwa‘i Bay. The estate also included several outbuildings, and stone walls enclosed the entire area. During Queen Emma’s visit, George Norton Wilcox (son of Wai‘oli missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox) and William O. Smith (son of Dr. James Smith, also a missionary) rode on horseback with Queen Emma to an area upland of her estate where they surveyed a water source. Wilcox and Smith consulted with Queen Emma to plan an irrigation ditch to provide water to the her Lāwa‘i estate.[65] Two men were hired to construct the ditch about 1 foot (30 cm) deep and wide, and about 2 miles (3.2 km) long. The ditch to Mauna Kilohana began functioning on March 11, 1871. Once water was available, Queen Emma personally assisted in the planting of numerous Polynesian-introduced species, including kalo (Colocasia esculenta, taro), kī(Cordyline fruticosa, ti), kō (Saccharum officinarum, sugarcane), and pia (Tacca leontopetaloides, Polynesian arrowroot). Also cultivated on the property were native species such as hala (Pandanus tectorius, screwpine), ‘ōhi‘a lehua (Metrosiderosspecies), and hau (Talipariti tiliaceum). Many non-native species were also planted, including rose apple, bamboo, mango, and bougainvillea. On April 25, 1871, Queen Emma boarded the steamer Pauahi for O‘ahu. The Lāwa‘i estate, Mauna Kilohana, was later leased by Queen Emma to Duncan McBryde, a Scot, who was also the district court judge. Queen Emma died in 1885, and the following year the ahupua‘a of Lāwa‘i was sold to Elizabeth McBryde for $5,000. The land was used for the production of sugarcane, and Alexander McBryde (the son of Duncan and Elizabeth McBryde) lowered cut-up portions of the Mauna Kilohana house, originally built in 1869, down the pali (cliff) into Lāwa‘i Valley (Lāwai‘i Kai) where it became known as Queen Emma’s Cottage. In 1937, Robert Allerton paid $50,000 for the 125-acre (51-acre) McBryde estate on Lāwa‘i Bay. Allerton was a Chicago industrialist as well as a philanthropist and arts patron. On Lāwa‘i Bay, Robert Allerton built a new house designed by architect John Gregg and furnished with antiques and expensive art. Allerton, 64 at the time, also expanded the estate’s gardens. Allerton and Gregg moved to Kaua‘i permanently in 1938 and began the detailed planning and designing of the property’s landscape, including planting many tropical, exotic and rare plants and trees. The 100-acre (40-ha) Allerton Garden includes sculptures, fountains, and pools as well as prodigious landscaping and many notable plant specimens. The National Tropical Botanical Garden acquired the site in 1971. Just across from Spouting Horn is the National Tropical Botanical Garden Visitor Center, housed in an old plantation-style cottage from the 1920s. The Visitor Center sells gifts, and also provides information about the NTBG’s scientific research efforts as well as their conservation programs aimed at preserving native species of the Hawaiian Islands. The 252-acre (102-ha) McBrydeGarden includes perhaps the largest collection of federally listed endangered plant species found anywhere. Research is ongoing, and the Garden’s expert botanists and researchers have developed propagation techniques that are helping to preserve these many unique plants. The herbarium at the site includes more than 27,000 dried plant specimens, while the research library houses about 8,000 volumes and serials. Tours depart from the Visitor Center to both the Allerton Garden and the McBryde Garden. A bus brings visitors along an old railroad grade to the Lāwa‘i Bay and the Gardens. Tours of Allerton Garden include a walk through the estate, while tours of the McBryde Garden include bus rides between different areas of the property. [National Tropical Botanical Garden, 808-332-7361, 3530 Pāpālina Road, Kalāheo, open daily 8-5; Visitor Center, 808-742-2623, Lāwa‘i Beach Road, Po‘ipū. Allerton Garden Tour, Tues.-Sat. (4 times per day), 2½ hour tour. McBryde Garden Tour, Mondays only (2 tours), www.ntbg.org. Directions: Take Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50) to Kōloa Road (Hwy. 530), near Mile Marker 11, to Po‘ipū Road, go right, and then take right fork, Lāwa‘i Road. Garden entrance is located across from Spouting Horn.] Shipwreck Beach (Keoniloa Bay) Located in front of the Hyatt Regency Kaua‘i, is a nice stretch of sand called Shipwreck Beach, named after a wrecked vessel that once adorned the site. The shorebreak sometimes attracts experienced surfers and body boarders, but create dangerous conditions for the inexperienced swimmer. Makawehi Point, on the left (east) end of the beach, is frequented by fishermen as well as kids jumping from the cliff. Anne Heche and Harrison Ford jumped from these rocks in 6 Days/7 Nights. The lithified cliffs in this area were formed from sand dunes during the last ice age, and are a great place for hiking and exploring. [Shipwreck Beach—Directions: Take public access road between Po‘ipū Bay Resort Golf Course and the Hyatt. “separated from the rest of Po‘ipū by a “rocky coastline etched with nature trails” 2-mile , popular hike” Māhā‘ulepū Beach and Coastline Māhā‘ulepū Beach, located a couple of miles past Shipwreck Beach, is isolated and untouched by development. Beyond the sea cliffs are beautiful, white-sand beaches, including sheltered coves and tide pools. Onshore are lithified sand dunes created about 11,000 years ago by rising sea levels that turned the sand into solid limestone. Later erosion by wind and rain created the many strange formations that may be seen there today. This land was inhabited by Hawaiians in ancient times. Walking east along the beach for about ten minutes leads to Kawailoa Bay, which is also surrounded by sea cliffs and sand dunes. About 1/3 mile (.5 km) west, just past a stream, is a short trail that leads to a cinder cone with a cave in the center. [Māhā‘ulepū Beach and Coastline—Directions: Take Po‘ipū Road (Hwy. 520) past Hyatt Regency onto the dirt road and go 1.8 miles (2.9 km), turn right at stop sign and go past gatehouse to parking area at end of road. Follow the trail on the right to the beach. Open 7:30 to 6 during winter months, and 7:30 to 7 during summer months.] 88 Places of Kobo Daishi This Buddhist holy place near Lāwa‘i includes 88 miniature shrines, each made of cement and named for a Buddhist saint. Sacred sands buried beneath the shrines came from the original 88 Holy Places, which was built by the revered Shingon leader Kobo Daishi, about 1,000 years ago. According to Shingon tradition, worshiping at the site will release one from the 88 human sins symbolized by the shrines. [88 Places of Kobo Daishi—Directions: A trail to the shrine begins near utility pole #344 about 200 yards (183 m) west of Wawae Road on Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50), or go just a short distance on Wawae Road makai (toward the ocean) from Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50). Kalāheo Kalāheo and east to Lāwa‘i is cattle country. Local farmers in this area also raise poultry and grow coffee. In 1860, Duncan McBryde leased the land and started a cattle ranch. He also married Elizabeth Moxley, and one of their six children was Walter McBryde who started sugarcane operations on the land. The McBryde Sugar Company was incorporated in 1899. The Kalāheo lands were later made available at low rates to homesteaders as part of an agreement with Hawai‘i’s Territorial Government. Many descendants of the region’s original sugarcane workers still live throughout the area, including a significant Portuguese population. The town’s commercial center consists of a few businesses and a post office at the intersection of Hwy. 50 and Pāpālina Road. Kukuiolono Park Atop a hill south of Kalāheo is Walter McBryde’s former estate, now known as Kukuiolono Park, including a 9-hole golf course as well as a Japanese garden and other gardens. Also at the site are a variety of culturally significant stones that were gathered from around Kaua‘i. The stones at Kukuiolono include Pōhakuloa, said to symbolize a fish god, and the bowl-shaped stone called Pōhaku Awa, the fish stone said to have been used to hold fish being transferred to upland ponds from Nōmilu Pond near the ocean. Walter McBryde is buried near the 8th tee, near his prized Japanese garden. Kukuiolono (“Lono’s light”[66]) is said have once been the sight of where signal fires (torches) were lit to help guide ocean travelers back to shore in their canoes. [Kukuiolono Park—Directions: From Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50), just east of Highway 540, take Papālina Road (at the stop light) ¾ mile (1.2 km) to Pu‘u Road and then turn right through the stone archway.] Hanapēpē / Port Allen Hanapēpē, located just past ‘Ele‘ele, a, is touted as the “Biggest Little Town on Kaua‘i.” A fork in the road off of Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50) leads directly to Hanapēpē’s main street, Hanapēpē Road, which was featured in The Thornbirds, a television miniseries. Today Hanapēpē is primarily a farming town and grows much of Kaua‘i’s produce. Port Allen is western Kaua‘i’s main port, located just east of Hanapēpē. Port Allen is a popular departure point for boats tours, and is also the headquarters of McBryde Company, which formerly ran a sugar plantation there, and now grows coffee on about 3,400 acres (1,376 ha), making it the largest coffee plantation in the Hawaiian Islands. Not far from the coffee production facility is the Kaua‘i Coffee Museum and Visitor Center, located in the former sugar camp called Numila, west of Kalāheo. The Visitor Center is located in two restored camp houses (plantation worker houses). One of the houses serves as a gift shop while the other exhibits items from Hawai‘i’s sugar era, including old coffee roasters and grinders. Free coffee samples are provided along with information about coffee processing. Outside you can view the coffee trees. [Kaua‘i Coffee Museum and Visitor Center, 808-335-0831.] Hanapēpē Valley Overlook This overlook of Hanapēpē Valley is located at Mile Marker 14 and provides a great view of the expansive valley with its red-edged cliffs. The lands makai (toward the ocean) were the site of an 1824 battle that took place when George P. (Prince) Kaumuali‘i, also known as Humehume, the son of Kaua‘i’s former paramount ruler King Kaumuali‘i, led a revolt on Kaua‘i seeking independence from King Kamehameha II (Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho). Kuhina nui (premier) Ka‘ahumanu, the former queen as wife of King Kamehameha I, helped to stop the rebellion with the assistance of Kalanimoku. Humehume was defeated in the battle and was taken prisoner along with his wife Betty, the daughter of Isaac Davis (‘Aikake). Humehume remained imprisoned on O‘ahu until his death of influenza on May 3, 1826. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1824.) [Hanapēpē Valley Overlook, Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50), Mile Marker 14.] Salt Ponds Salt Ponds is a traditional Hawaiian salt-gathering area located on the western edge of Hanapēpē. Shallow, mud-lined beds (salt pans) are used to allow the sun to evaporate seawater, leaving behind crystals of pa‘akai (salt), which is tinted red by Kaua‘i’s iron-rich earth. This site is the last of the natural salt ponds still in use in the Hawaiian Islands. Just past the salt ponds is Salt Pond Beach Park, with picnic and camping facilities as well as a lifeguard station. A reef partially protects the sandy beach, and a shallow cove area provides safe swimming. A nice park area also make Salt Ponds a popular spot for picnics.. [Salt Pond Beach Park, Hanapēpē. Directions: On Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50) near the 17 Mile Marker, take Lele Road (Hwy. 543) about ½-mile (.8-km) south, then go right on Lokokai.] Eastern Kaua‘i Lydgate Beach Park Lydgate is one of Kaua‘i’s best beach parks for kids. Lifeguards are on duty during regular hours, and two stone-walled ocean pools provide safe areas for swimming. Be cautious, however, as the currents may be dangerous in the deeper offshore waters, particularly north of Lydgate Beach. Also at Lydgate Beach Park is Kamalani Playground, an elaborate, community-built playground area that is a testament to the volunteer efforts of hundreds of Kauaians. Lydgate Beach also has picnic facilities, including pavilions and restrooms. Lydgate Beach Park is named after the Reverend John M. Lydgate, a Protestant minister who founded the Līhu‘e English Union Church, and later was one of the founders of the Kaua‘i Historical Society (see above). An ancient heiau is also located on the site (see Wailua section below). [Lydgate Beach Park, Leho Drive (at Mile Marker 5) north of Līhu‘e in Wailua, just south of the Wailua River (near Holiday Inn), off Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56), open dawn to dusk.] Nukoli‘i Beach Nukoli‘i Beach spans about 2 miles (3.2 km) in all, from Lydgate Beach along the length of the region fronted by the Wailua Golf Course. Though Nukoli‘i is not the best swimming beach, it is almost always uncrowded. The southern part of Nukoli‘i Beach can be reached by taking the Radisson Resort entrance. The beach can also be accessed by the dirt road between the Radisson’s entrance and the golf course (near Mile Marker 4). [Nukoli‘i Beach, fronting Wailua Golf Course, Wailua, Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56). Wailua In ancient times, Wailua was a political and religious center of Kaua‘i, with numerous heiau (sacred places of worship) as well as other culturally important sites. It was also home to many important ali‘i (royalty and chiefs). Wailua means “Two waters.”[67] The coastal area of the ahupua‘a was known as Wailua Kai, and was home to many of Kaua‘i’s ruling chiefs as well as kāhuna (high priests). The region offered fertile agricultural lands, access to marine resources, and a good canoe landing. It was also a good place for he‘e nalu (surfing waves). The region extending from the ocean at Wailua Bay, up to the mountain ridges above Nounou and Kālepa, was known in ancient times as Wailuanuiho‘ano (“Great sacred Wailua of the chief Ho‘ano”),[68] referring to the 14th century chief named Wailuanuiaho‘ano. A trail along the course of the Wailua River led up through the length of the valley to six different heiau that were aligned from the shoreline to the top of the island. The chiefs traveled up through the groves of koa (Acacia koa), sandalwood (Santalum species), and ‘ōhi‘a lehua (Metrosideros species) to finally reach the small plateau atop 5,148-foot (1,569-m) summit of Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale. The name Wai‘ale‘ale means “Rippling water or overflowing water”[69] referring to a pond on the summit plateau. Also on the summit is a heiau (sacred place of worship) and altar dedicated to the god Kāne, considered the spirit of the water and the lord of the forests. The summit heiau is named Ka‘awakō (“The kava drawn along”[70]). It is said that Kāne remains there beneath Wai‘ale‘ale’s clouds.
Cultural Sites of Wailuanuiaho‘ano The region from the ocean at Wailua Bay up to the ridges of Nounou and Kālepa was known in ancient times as Wailuanuiho‘ano (“Great sacred Wailua of the chief Ho‘ano”),[71] referring to the 14th century chief named Wailuanuiaho‘ano.
SiteLocationComments Hauloa South bank of Wailua rivermouth Likely included a pu‘uhonua (place of refuge) Hikina-a-ka-lā Part of Hauloa (religious center) 395 feet (120 m) long; 56 to 80 feet (17 to 24 m) wide Kukui Heiau North bank of Wailua rivermouth Across rivermouth from Hauloa Na Ki‘i Pōhaku (Petroglyphs)South bank of Wailua rivermouth Sometimes covered with sand Canoe Landing Near Wailua river mouth Loko i‘a (Fishponds) Near Wailua river mouth Māla‘e Heiau West side of Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56) 273 by 324 feet (83 by 99 m); walls up to 10 feet (3 m) high, Holoholokū HeiauSouth side of Kuamo‘o Road (Hwy. 580) BellstoneSouth side of Kuamo‘o Road (Hwy. 580) Signaled royal birth Poli‘ahu Heiau South side of Kuamo‘o Road (Hwy. 580)Included several structures* * Structures within Poli‘ahu included an ‘anu‘u (oracle tower), lele (altar), hale pahu (temple drum house), and hale umu (where temple fires were kept, and offerings prepared)).
Hauloa Heiau Hauloa (“Dew of life”[72]) is a large heiau (sacred place of worship) located at the mouth of the Wailua River, and is thought to have included a pu‘uhonua (place of refuge). The religious center at Hauloa was Hikina-a-ka-lā (“Rising of the sun”[73]), located at the point where the sunlight first touches the island of Kaua‘i’s eastern shore each morning. Hikina-a-ka-lā was built an estimated 1,200 years ago and oriented to Hōkūpa‘a (“Immovable star”[74]), the Polynesians’ name for the North Star. Hikina-a-ka-lā was a stone enclosure about 395 feet (120 m) long, and from 56 to 80 feet (17 to 24 m) wide. Though little of the original structure remains today, the walls of Hikina-a-ka-lā were once 11 feet (3.3 m) wide and 6 feet (1.8 m) high, and said to be watched over by Ka pae ki‘i o Wailua.[75]It remains largely unknown what events and rituals took place at Hikina-a-ka-lā, though the heiau’s size and location leave little doubt that the site was very important in ancient Hawai‘i. In the 1800s, the sacred area of Hauloa was abandoned as far as religious uses, and coconut palms and sweet potatoes were planted. In the 1900s the heiau’s rocks were taken away and used for road beds, leaving only the loose outline of the foundations stones that may be seen there today. Formerly at the site were many great slabs of stone set on end in a double row. In 1962, Hikina-a-ka-lā and other Wailua heiau were designated National Historic Landmarks. A bronze plaque commemorates the heiau as “Hauola, City of Refuge.” Located next to the plaque is an adze grinding stone as well as two flat, stone salt pans. Toward the beach are some petroglyphs known as Na Ki‘i Pōhaku, which are often covered by shifting sands. Across Wailua Bay, on Alakukui Point, are the grass-covered remains of the foundation stones of Kukui Heiau. [Hauola Heiau, end of Lydgate Beach parking lot near Wailua rivermouth.] Māla‘e Heiau Māla‘e Heiau is located near the mouth of the Wailua River, about 45 feet (12 m) from Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56), on the mauka (mountain) side of the road. Thought to be one of Kaua‘i’s oldest heiau and also the largest, Māla‘e Heiau encompasses about 2 acres (.8 ha). The stone structure measures 273 by 324 feet (83 by 99 m), with walls up to 10 feet (3 m) high and 8 to 13 feet (2.4 to 4 m) thick. A 6-foot by 2-foot (1.8-m by .6-m) stone ledge lined the inside of the wall, providing a place for people to sit and watch the proceedings. According to legend, Māla‘e Heiau was built by menehune about 1,500 years ago. The heiau is said to be an example of the menehune trait of forming a single line of people many miles long to pass rocks from one person to the next. (See Menehune section, Chapter 3.) Māla‘e Heiau was converted into a cattle pen by Deborah Kapule (the last queen of Kaua‘i as the wife of King Kamuali‘i) after she converted to Christianity. In the late 1800s and early 1900s, the rocks of Māla‘e Heiau were used by the sugar plantations for construction projects. This was the impetus for the founding of the Kaua‘i Historical Society by Reverend John M. Lydgate and others. More recently, the heiau has been cleared of overgrown brush by volunteers working to restore the site. [Māla‘e Heiau, located on the west side of Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56), near the south bank of Wailua River.] Holoholokū Heiau Holoholokū Heiau is located on the south side of Kuamo‘o Road (Hwy. 580), just off the main highway. Said to be one of Kaua‘i’s oldest heiau, Holoholokū is relatively small, measuring about 20 feet by 40 feet (6 m by 12 m). Holoholokū Heiau was a luakini, where human sacrifices were performed. A birthstone on the western side of the site is where ancient ali‘i (Hawaiian royalty) gave birth. A plaque on the stone reads “Pohaku Hoohanau Birthstone.” Another rock on the site has a plaque that reads “Pohaku Piko,” and this pōhaku (stone) was where the baby’s umbilical cord (piko) was left to ensure the child’s health. A stairway near the heiau climbs to the top of a small hill overlooking the Wailua river. On this mound are dozens of Japanese gravesites, some marked with lava-rock gravestones. [Holoholokū Heiau, alongside Kuamo‘o Rd. (Hwy. 580), about ¼ mile (.4 km) from Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56) on the left (south) side of the road.] Bellstone The Bellstone is located farther up Kuamo‘o Road (Hwy. 580), also on the south side of the road. Just after Mile Marker 1 and just before Poli‘ahu Heiau, a dirt road on the left leads about 200 yards (183 m) to the site. One of the two boulders at the edge of the hill is the bellstone (it’s uncertain which one). In ancient days, the ringing of the Bellstone could be heard through the valley, and signaled that a royal birth had occurred. This bellstone may have also been used to send signals to heiau sites at lower elevations to warn them of approaching dangers (e.g., invading warriors in canoes). Poli‘ahu Heiau Poli‘ahu Heiau is located on the south side of Kuamo‘o Road (Hwy. 580). Considered the sister heiau to Māla‘e, Poli‘ahu Heiau is 242 feet (74 m) long by 165 feet (50 m) wide, and the site of ancient religious ceremonies led by a kahuna (high priest). Structures within Poli‘ahu were dismantled after the overthrow of the kapu in 1819 (see Chapter 11, Timeline: 1819, May 20), including an ‘anu‘u (a three-story wooden oracle tower), lele (altar, or raised platform), hale pahu (temple drum house), and a hale umu, described as an “...oven house where the temple fires were kept and offerings were prepared.”[76] Visible from Poli‘ahu is Māla‘e Heiau, and it is likely that communication took place between the two locations in ancient times. Above Poli‘ahu is Kālepa Ridge’s last peak, called Mauna-kapu (“Sacred mountain”[77]). [Poli‘ahu Heiau, Kuamo‘o Road (Hwy. 580), on south side of the road just before ‘Ōpaeka‘a Falls Viewpoint, Wailua.] Wailua River / Wailua Falls Located on Kaua‘i’s east side, the Wailua River is widely cited in tour books as the Hawaiian Islands’ only navigable river, but this is technically incorrect since boaters and kayakers also frequently explore many of the smaller rivers in the Hawaiian Islands. Wailua River State Park is Kaua‘i’s most visited State Park, with more than 1 million people visiting each year. Large, flat-bottom boats are used to bring visitors upriver to the lush, natural cathedral known as the Fern Grotto is a fern-laced natural amphitheater cave accessible only by boat. Tour boats (see below) depart from the Wailua marina on the south bank of the Wailua River near Kūhiō Highway(Hwy. 56). Another way to see the Fern Grotto is to rent a kayak from one of the nearby outfitters, and paddle upriver to the site. Smith’s Tropical Paradise is located west of Wailua Marina on the southern side of Wailua River. Encompassing about 30 acres (12 ha), Smith’s Tropical Paradise includes gardens and lagoons complete with exotic birds (e.g., peacocks). There are also several recreated ethnic villages, including Japanese, Filipino, and of course, Polynesian. Smith’s also puts on a musical show each night in the lagoon theater, as well as a lū‘au (traditional Hawaiian feast) three times per week. Wailua Falls is located on the south fork of the Wailua River, 3½ miles (5.6 km) up Mā‘alo Road from Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56). The turnoff from Kūhiō Highway onto Mā‘alo Road is located between Līhu‘e and Hanamā‘ulu. From the top to the bottom of this waterfall is about 80 feet (24 m). The water usually cascades over in two separate falls, but if it’s been raining a single torrent gushes over the cliff. About 1/3 mile (.5 km) before the end of Mā‘alo Road is the beginning of the unimproved and potentially treacherous trail to the bottom of the waterfall. [Wailua Falls, End of Mā‘alo Road (Hwy. 583), 3¾ miles (6 km) west of Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56). Directions: From Līhu‘e take Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56) north to Mā‘alo Road, and turn left. [Wailua River, Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56), 7 miles (11.3 km) north of Līhu‘e.] [Smith’s Motor Boat Service, [808-821-6892.] [Wai‘ale‘ale Boat Tours, 808-822-4908; Tours leave every half hour, 9-3 except noon, no reservations required.] ‘Ōpaeka‘a Falls Located just up Kuamo‘o Road (Hwy. 580) from Poli‘ahu Heiau is ‘Ōpaeka‘a Falls Viewpoint. ‘Ōpaeka‘a Falls is fed by the ‘Ōpaeka‘a Stream, a tributary of the Wailua River. ‘Ōpaeka‘a means “Rolling shrimp,”[78] and refers to the swarms of shrimp that once filled the pools at the base of the waterfalls. Just across Kuamo‘o Road (Hwy. 580) from ‘Ōpaeka‘a Falls Viewpoint is an overlook in the other direction, providing a great view of the Wailua River, and Kamūkila Hawaiian Village, a reconstructed Polynesian village located on the northern bank of the river. Kamūkila offers tours as well as Hawaiian craft demonstrations. [‘Ōpaeka‘a Falls Viewpoint, Kuamo‘o Road (Hwy. 580).] [Kamūkila Hawaiian Village, 823-0559, located off Kuamo‘o Road (Hwy. 580), 8:30-4:30, Mon.-Sat.] Keāhua Arboretum At the top of Kuamo‘o Road (Hwy. 580), at a stream crossing 6¾ miles (11 km) from Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56), is Keāhua Arboretum. A short trail leads to a picnic area with a view of a steep ridge. The 5,243-foot (1,598-m) summit of Mt. Kawaikini is visible on the south end of the ridge. About 1 mile (1.6 km) north of Kawaikini is the 5,148-foot (1,569-m) peak of Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale. [Keāhua Arboretum, Kuamo‘o Road (Hwy. 580), 6¾ miles (11 km) from Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56).] Nounou Ridge (Sleeping Giant) Nounou Ridge runs north from ‘Ōpaeka‘a Falls and climbs to an elevation of 1,241 feet (378 m). The ridge slopes to the east toward the ocean, providing a physical reminder of the former slope of the ancient Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale before erosion carved away at the massive volcano. From Kapa‘a and Wailua, the view to the west is dominated by a mountain ridgeline likened to the shape of a giant reclining figure known as Sleeping Giant. The head is toward the middle of the ridge (south) and the feet to the right (north). It is said that the menehune tried to awaken the giant by throwing stones, but so many stones landed in the giant’s mouth that it gave him an incurable case of indigestion. This caused the giant to remain there sleeping ever since. Kapa‘a Kapa‘a is an old plantation town, and the last major town before heading north toward Kīlauea. Keālia Beach Keālia Beach is located north of Kapa‘a alongside Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56). This area was once the site of a steamer landing and train depot that provided service to the nearby sugar mill. Though Keālia is a popular surfing and sunbathing beach, the offshore currents may be extremely dangerous. A lifeguard tower at Keālia Beach provides some measure of safety, but if waves are large, only the experienced should venture into the water. [Keālia Beach, Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56), just north or Kapa‘a, past Mile Marker 10.] Anahola Anahola is located north of Kapa‘a, near Mile Marker 13 on Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56). At the bottom of a hill is the town’s only commercial establishments, including: a convenience story; hamburger stand (Ono Burgers); and a post office. Anahola is also the site of Hawaiian homes. Anahola is located beneath the eastern end of Anahola Ridge beneath the Kalalea Mountains. The summit of the peak on the left is called Hōkū‘alele (“Shooting star”) and is the site of an ancient three-terraced heaiu (sacred place of worship). The next peak over is Kalalea (“Prominent”[79]), commonly called Kong Mountain, or King Kong’s Profile. The ancient Hawaiians likened the shape of this peak to the a shark fin. To the right (north) of Kalalea, a small hole through the mountain can be seen from Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56). Larsen’s Beach Larsen’s Beach was formerly the site of the beach house of L. David Larsen, who managed the Kīlauea Sugar Plantation. A rocky area on the right (southeast) side of Larsen’s Beach provides good snorkeling when the waves outside the reef aren’t too large. Pākalā Point is on the left (northwest) side of the beach where lava rocks jut out into the water. Pākalā Channel (visible as you approach from above), has a strong current that pulls out to sea. Beware of swimming near this area. Beyond Pākalā Point are two sandy beaches extending toward Kepuhi Point. [Larsen’s Beach—Directions: From Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56), take Ko‘olau Road between Mile Markers 16 and 17 for 2.3 miles (3.7 km)—or the other Ko‘olau Road entrance at Mile Marker 20 for 1.2 miles (1.9 km)—to the unpaved access road to Larsen’s. Look for the Beach Access sign. The dirt road goes for about 9/10 mile (1.4 km), and then a trail leads down to the beach.] Moloa‘a Beach Moloa‘a Stream drains into the center of the bay’s long crescent of sand, which is fronted by 200-foot (61-m) bluffs. Numerous drownings and near drownings have occurred at Moloa‘a Beach, so use extreme caution if swimming in this area. [Moloa‘a Beach—Directions: Take Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56) to Ko‘olau Road between Mile Markers 16 and 17. Take Ko‘olau Road 1.2 miles (1.9 km), then continue on to the right on Moloa‘a Road to the end. A sign points left to the beach access.] Northern Kaua‘i Na ‘Āina Kai Botanical Garden Na ‘Āina Kai includes 12 acres (5 ha) of gardens along with 110 acres (44.5 ha) of tropical hardwood trees and 45 acres (18 ha) of exotic fruit trees. Twelve well-maintained theme gardens grace the grounds, with various attractive features, including gazebos, koi-filled ponds, and topiary. Na ‘Āina Kai also has a Japanese tea house, a cactus garden, a carnivorous plant house, and more than 65 bronze statues of people and animals designed in Americana style. A well-groomed hedge maze consists of 2,400 mock orange plants. The Garden’s 56,000 tropical hardwood trees are primarily teak, but also zebra wood, Indian rosewood, and three types of mahogany. [Na ‘Āina Kai Botanical Gardens, 828-0525, www.naainakai.com.] Kāhili Beach (Rock Quarry) Kāhili Beach is commonly known as Rock Quarry due to the past use of the area. Located on Kīlauea Bay, Kāhili is a great swimming beach relatively well-protected at its northwestern side near the mouth of the Kīlauea Stream. The beach is also frequented by surfers. [Kāhili Beach (Rock Quarry). Directions: Turn north from Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56) onto Wailapa Road between Mile Markers 21 and 22. About ½-mile (.8 km) down Wailapa Road is a dirt road on the left leading about ½-mile (.8 km) down to the beach.] Guava Kai Plantation With about 480 acres (194 ha) of guava in cultivation, Guava Kai Plantation claims the title “guava capital of the world.” Guava Kai is located just mauka (mountain side) of Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56), across from Kīlauea town. Turn mauka (toward the mountains) on Kuawa Road, at the large guava wearing sunglasses that announces the way to Guava Kai. (This fancy sign is not always on display, but there is also a permanent sign at the intersection of Kuawa Road and the highway.) Guava Kai’s Visitor Center sells jellies, juices, and other products made from the sweet, pink fruit. Information is also provided about the growing and processing of guava. Agronomical engineering at Guava Kai has the goal of producing a better guava, and cultivates a hybrid guava species that attains a size about twice as large as the guavas growing wild around Kaua‘i. Ninety percent of the guava trees at Guava Kai are of the Beaumont variety. The other ten percent include Gushiken, Red Indian, and Ruby Supreme varieties. As the largest guava plantation in the United States, Guava Kai harvests about 10 million pounds (4.5 million kg) of guavas each year, producing about half of the Hawaiian Islands’ crop and also exporting the products to the United States Mainland as well as Canada. Guava Kai’s guava processing plant may be seen operating during the harvest season from August to December. The plantation also has a hiking path that leads to tropical trees with identifying labels. [Guava Kai Plantation, 808-828-6121, open 9-5 daily. Directions: From Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56), about 34 miles (55 km) north of Līhu‘e, turn mauka (toward the mountains) on Kuawa Road near Kīlauea, just north of Mile Marker 23 and about ¼ mile (.4 km) south of Kolo Road (the entrance road to Kīlauea town).] Kīlauea Town Kīlauea began as a sugarcane plantation town housing the workers of the Kīlauea Sugar Company, which was established in 1880 by British and American partners, who imported many plantation laborers from China. In 1881,Princess Lili‘uokalani (Hawai‘i’s future Queen) came to Kīlauea to dedicate the new railroad, which included 24 railroad cars, a railroad engine, and three miles of track. Kīlauea is entered from Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56) by turning makai (toward the ocean) on Kolo Road, just past Mile Marker 23 (look for the Shell gas station). Just past the gas station on Kolo Road is the historic Christ Memorial Episcopal Church, built in 1941 with walls of cut lava stones and stained glass windows imported from England. A Hawaiian Congregational Church was once located on this site, and the adjacent cemetery has gravestones dating to the 1800s. Across from the historic church is the beginning of Kīlauea Road. Less than 1 mile (1.6 km) down Kīlauea Road is a small group of stores surrounded by a nice courtyard area that provides a nice place to eat and relax. The stores include: the Kong Lung Center (a boutique); Island Soap and Candle Works; Kīlauea Bakery and Pau Hana Pizza; the Lighthouse Bistro restaurant; and some other small shops. Proceeding farther down Kīlauea road leads to the Kīlauea Point National Wildlife Refuge (see below). [Kīlauea Town, 25 miles (40 km) north of Līhu‘e on Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56).] Kīlauea Point Lighthouse Perched atop a peninsula jutting out from Kaua‘i’s northern coastline is the Kīlauea Point Lighthouse, a historic landmark originally built to provide a guide for ships arriving from the Orient. Panoramic views of the Pacific Ocean make the peninsula bluff a great place to see a variety of native birds, including several endangered species. (See Native Birds of the Hawaiian Islands, Chapter 7 for more information about the birds listed below.) Native Bird Species seen at Kīlauea Point National Wildlife Refuge Hawaiian NameCommon NameScientific Name ‘A Red-Footed Booby Sula sula rubripes ‘Iwa Great Frigatebird Fregata minor palmerstoni Koa‘e ‘Ula Red-Tailed Tropicbird Phaethon rubricauda rothschildi Koa‘e Kea White-Tailed Tropicbirds Phaethon lepturus dorotheae Kōlea Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva Mōlī Laysan Albatross Diomedea immutabilis Nēnē Hawaiian Goose Branta sandvicensis ‘Ua‘u Kani Wedge-Tailed ShearwaterPuffinus pacificus chlororhynchus The Lighthouse bluff is also the northernmost point in the main Hawaiian Islands, and provides great views of the north shore coastline extending to Princeville and beyond, as well as the nearer coastal area of Kauapea Beach (commonly called Secret Beach), where dolphins often congregate in the morning (see below). Kīlauea Point Lighthouse stands 52 feet (15.8 m) high, atop a cliff that is more than 200 feet (61 m) above the ocean. The point on which the Lighthouse sits was acquired by the United States government in 1909. The Lighthouse was officially dedicated on May 1, 1913 and for the next 62 years served as a navigational aid for ships. The Fresnel lens installed in the Kīlauea Point Lighthouse was made in France and cost $12,000. The 4-ton (3.6-mton) lens of the Lighthouse is the world’s largest clamshell lens (though it is no longer in service). The lens was turned by a weighted cable and pulley system that required rewinding ever 3½ hours. After being rewound, the weighted cables would again slowly descend as the lens flashed every 10 seconds. Light was produced using an oil-vapor lamp. Kīlauea Point Lighthouse was credited with saving the crew of the Fokker C-2-3 Wright I trimotor plane Bird of Paradise, which completed the first non-stop flight to the Hawaiian Islands from the United States on June 28-29, 1927. The Bird of Paradise crew included Albert Hegenberger and Lester Maitland, two lieutenants in the United States Army. Low on fuel and slightly off course, Hegenberger and Maitland saw the double flash of the lighthouse beacon and turned back. They landed in Honolulu to complete the first trans-Pacific flight to the Hawaiian Islands from the western coast of the United States. In 1930, an electric lamp replaced Kīlauea’s Lighthouse’s oil-vapor lamp, and a 200-watt radio beacon was also added. The new light generated ½-million candlepower, which was double the illumination that had been generated by the oil-vapor lamp. The light and the radio beacon were turned off during World War II, and a secret radar site was built on Crater Hill above the Lighthouse (the bunkers are still visible). By 1958, Kīlauea Point Lighthouse was generating up to 2.5-million candlepower. The installation of an electric drive ended the need for manual rewinding. The Lighthouse was decommissioned in 1976 when an automated electronic beacon was placed in the tower. Kīlauea Point Lighthouse is part of the 203-acre (82-ha) Kīlauea Point National Wildlife Refuge, which was established after the United States Coast Guard left in 1985. In 1988, the Refuge was expanded to include Mōkōlea Pointand Crater Hill. Refuge staff offer hikes up to Crater Hill, which is reached by following a trail up from the Lighthouse along the seacliffs. During the 1 mile (1.6 km), two hour hike to Crater Hill, guides provide information about native plant and bird life as well as local geology. The guided hikes are given Monday through Thursday at 1 p.m. The Refuge’s extensive habitat restoration efforts and fenced perimeter allow many native plant and bird species to thrive that would otherwise be at extreme risk due to local dogs, cats, pigs, and other non-native species. Native species propagated on the Refuge include naupaka kahakai (Scaevolasericea, beach naupaka), ‘ilima (Sida fallax), hala (Pandanus tectorius, screwpine), ‘akoko (Chamaesyce species, spurge), ahea‘hea (Chenopodium oahuense), and ālula (Brighamia species). Kīlauea Point Lighthouse was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1979. In 1992, the waters offshore of the Wildlife Refuge were designated a National Marine Sanctuary with the intent of helping the endangered koholā (Megaptera novaeangliae, humpback whale), which visit Hawaiian waters each winter to mate and give birth. Also seen in the waters offshore of the Lighthouse bluff are nai‘a (Stenella longisrostris, spinner dolphins), leapingfrom the water with acrobatic flips and spins. The dolphins often swim close to shore, particularly in the early mornings of spring and summer. Other marine life seen offshore of Kīlauea Point includes ‘ilio-holo-i-ka-uaua (Monachus schauinslandi, Hawaiian monk seals); honu (Chelonia mydas, green sea turtles), and nai‘a (Tursiops truncatus, bottlenose dolphins). The Kīlauea Point National Wildlife Refuge now receives more than 200,000 visitors per year. The Visitor Center at the Refuge includes a gift and book shop as well as interpretive displays about native wildlife. Just offshore of Kīlauea Point is a small, rocky islet called Moku‘ae‘ae, which means “Fine (small) island.”[80] Moku means “Island” or “Islet,” and ‘ae‘ae means “rise of the tide; froth of the sea.”[81] A meaning sometimes given for Moku‘ae‘ae is “Fragment frothing in the rising tide.” Albatross Tagging Project In 1999, ornithologists working in conjunction with Kīlauea Point National Wildlife Refuge and the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service attached transmitters to mōlī (Diomedea immutabilis, Laysan albatross) nesting near Kīlauea Lighthouse. When the birds left Kaua‘i to find food for their young, the transmitters sent signals to a satellite that relayed the birds’ latitude and longitude data back to Earth. Results from a previous study based on Tern Island found that one albatross flew 24,843 miles (40,000 km) in just 90 days. The bird traveled all the way across the North Pacific and back, a distance equal to flying all the way around the world. Another bird made repeated trips east to the San Francisco Bay area and then back to the Hawaiian Islands to feed its young. Continuing research will reveal more about the large, graceful albatross birds, including their unique courtship habits and their amazing journeys in search of food. Updates on the tagged birds may be seen on the internet site: www.wfu.edu/albatross. More information is provided in the Refuge’s Visitor Center, which also features displays and dioramas about native species and geology. [Kīlauea Point National Wildlife Refuge, [808-828-1413 ], Kīlauea Road, Kīlauea, 808-828-0168, www.kilauea-point.com, 10-4, daily; Guided hike to Crater Hill, Mon.-Thurs, 10 a.m. by reservation. Directions: take Kolo Road to Kīlauea Road, to the end at Kīlauea Point, www.fws.gov
BEGIN QUESTIONS
The book Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition (Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974, Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini) says that the offshore islet, Moku-‘ae‘ae is ”3 acres, 104 foot elevation” — is this correct, do you have any other info about Moku-‘ae‘ae? Is there a Hawaiian name for Crater Hill? What is the elevation of Crater Hill? Do have any information about the radio beacon being turned off during World War II and a secret radar site built on Crater Hill above the Lighthouse (e.g., bunkers still visible)? What year was the electric drive installed, ending the need for manual rewinding? What is the species name for the ‘āheahea propagated on the Refuge? or is it ahea‘hea (Chenopodium oahuense)
Kīlauea Lighthouse Fact Sheet Lighthouse Height: 52 feet (15.8 m). Size of Kīlauea Point National Wildlife Refuge: 203 acres (82 ha). Height of Peninsula Bluff: More than 200 feet (61 m) above the ocean. Weight of Lens: 4-ton (3.6-mton)—World’s Largest Clamshell Lens (no longer in service). Cost of Fresnel Lens: $12,000 (built in France). Original Light Source: Oil-Vapor Lamp.
Kīlauea Point Timeline 1909—Peninsula bluff is acquired by United States government. 1913—Kīlauea Point Lighthouse is officially dedicated on May 1. 1930—Oil-vapor lamp is replaced by electric lamp (½-million candlepower). 1930—200-watt radio beacon is installed. 1958—Illumination up to 2½ million candlepower. 1976—Lighthouse decommissioned, automated electronic beacon installed. 1985—United States Coast Guard leaves; Kīlauea National Wildlife Refuge established 1988—Refuge is expanded to include Mōkōlea Point and Crater Hill. 1979—Kīlauea Point Lighthouse is added to the National Register of Historic Places. 1992—Waters offshore of the Refuge are designated a National Marine Sanctuary to help in the preservation of the endangered koholā (Megaptera novaeangliae, humpback whale). Kauapea Beach (Secret Beach) To get to Kauapea (Secret Beach), from Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56) take Kalihiwai Road just west of Kīlauea at Mile Marker 24. The pavement quickly turns to dirt, and at the end of this dirt road is a trail that provides access down to the beach. The trail may be a bit slippery at a few points if it has been raining, but generally is a very gradual easy walk about ¼ mile (.4 km). The beach itself is long and wide, with fine golden sand interspersed with lava rocks. [Kauapea Beach (Secret Beach)—Directions: From Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56), turn north on the first (eastern) Kalihiwai Road, just before Mile Marker 24, and then turn right on the first dirt road, which leads down to the parking area at the head of the trail down to the beach.] Kalihiwai Bay / Kalihiwai Beach Kalihiwai Beach is a nice crescent of sand along Kalihiwai Bay. At the eastern end of the beach is the mouth of the Kalihiwai River. Kalihiwai Falls is visible from the main highway just north of Mile Marker 25 while crossing over Kalihiwai Bridge. ‘Anini Beach Just west of the first Kalihiwai Road is the second intersection of Kūhiō Highway and Kalihiwai Road. This second Kalihiwai Road has a fork in it: left leads to ‘Anini Beach (see below); right leads to the west side of Kalihiwai Bay, where the road once connected through before the bridge along this route was destroyed by a tsunami. (See Tsunamis, Chapter 4.) In the Kalihiwai Stream you can still see the remnants of the old bridge. ‘Anini Beach is about 2 miles (3.2 km) long, and mostly protected along its whole length by a fringing reef. Several surfing spots are located along the reef, and the protected waters of ‘Anini are popular among windsurfers, particularly beginners and those taking lessons. Also along ‘Anini Beach are county campgrounds. An estate in this area was used in the movie Honeymoon in Vegas starring Sarah Jessica Parker and James Caan. Princeville A few miles west of Kīlauea is the resort area of Princeville. Just before the entrance to Princeville is the Princeville Airport, which is now used primarily as a departure point for helicopter tours. The airport was also used for scenes in the 2002 movie Dragonfly starring Kevin Costner. Located upstairs in the airport building is the Landing Pad(formerly called Amelias), a local bar that often features bands and other events. Just west of the airport is the Prince Golf Course clubhouse and Princeville Health Club and Spa. The luxurious health club weight room has floor to ceiling windows looking out over the golf course with the Pacific Ocean in the distance. About 1 mile farther is the entrance to the resort community of Princeville, easily identified by the large fountain, statue, and pools with small waterfalls. At night these water features are lit up, providing quite a regal entrance. The name “Princeville” was the result of an 1860 visit to Hanalei by Queen Emma and King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani) with their young son, Prince Albert. The boy’s full name was Albert Edward Kauikeaouli Leiopapa o Kamehameha, Ka Haku o Hawai‘i (The Prince of Hawai‘i). The royal party came to Hanalei as the guests of Robert Crichton Wyllie, the Minister of Foreign Affairs for the Hawaiian Kingdom. Wyllie was also an agricultural entrepreneur and landowner in Hanalei. The King, Queen, and Prince stayed at Wyllie’s plantation manager’s house, called Kikiula (later called the Princeville Plantation House and then the Princeville Ranch House), which was situated on a plateau above the east side of the Hanalei River. In the summer of 1860, to honor the young Prince Albert, Wyllie changed the name of his estate to the Princeville Plantation and made the young Prince the intended heir to the Hanalei estate. Wyllie planned on petitioning the government of the Kingdom for his estate to be officially designated “Barony de Princeville.” Tragically, however, Prince Albert passed away in 1862 at the tender age of four, and then King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani) passed away in 1863 at the age of 29. Robert Crichton Wyllie passed away on October 19, 1865 at his Rosebank estate on O‘ahu, and was buried at Honolulu’s Royal Mausoleum. Wyllie’s Princeville Plantation continued on under various owners, eventually becoming Princeville Ranch, primarily involved in raising cattle. Princeville Resort had its beginnings in July of 1968 when Harry Trueblood of Eagle County Development Corporation, a Denver-based subsidiary of Consolidated Oil and Gas Company, bought all but about 50 acres (20 ha) of the Princeville Ranch from a subsidiary of American Factors Ltd. (Amfac). (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1849.) In the 1970s the development of Princeville as a major resort area began. In 1971, Princeville’s Makai Golf Course opened, including three nine-hole courses called Lakes, Woods, and Ocean. In 1982, the Princeville Hotel Corporation was formed with the intent of constructing a major luxury hotel at Pu‘u-pōā on the shoreline of the east side of Hanalei Bay. In September of 1985, the Sheraton Princeville Hotel opened, with 300 rooms available for visitors. The development of the Prince Golf Course along the shoreline above the eastern side of Princeville began in 1986. In 1987, the Qintex Group of Queensland, Australia purchased the “resort” and then from 1989 to 1991 an extensive refurbishment of the hotel took place. Renamed as the Sheraton Mirage Princeville, the hotel was upgraded to a 5-star standard. Also in 1989, construction of the 60,000-square-foot (5,575-sq.-m) Prince Clubhouse began adjacent to the Prince Golf Course. Today the majority shareholder in the Princeville Corporation is the Japanese company Suntory, Ltd., which acquired a major controlling share in the corporation in June of 1990. Two other Japanese companies, Nippon Shinpan & Co. Ltd. and Mitsui & Co. Ltd., are equal shareholders as minority partners. The resort’s name officially became Princeville Resort and the hotel reopened on May 15, 1991 as the Princeville Hotel. After Hurricane ‘Iniki[82] severely damaged the Princeville Hotel on September 11, 1992, the hotel was closed, and $30 million in repairs were required. The hotel’s 250-person staff finally returned to work on October 15, 1993, and in May of 1995 the hotel was designated “Hotel of the Year” by ITT Sheraton.[83] Today Princeville is an 11,000-acre (4,452-ha) resort destination and Kaua‘i’s largest planned community, stretching from the upper eastern slopes of Hanalei Valley (on the west) to ‘Anini Beach and Kalihiwai Valley (on the east). The 252-room Princeville Hotel sits on 23 acres (9 ha) atop Pu‘u-pōā Ridge and terraced into the oceanfront hillside. Princeville’s two expansive golf courses are rated among the top in the nation, and the luxurious Princeville Health Club and Spa offers a spectacular setting, with ocean views and a wide array of opportunities for exercise and rejuvenation. Princeville also includes 16 time-share condominium complexes, and several more are planned. Also found throughout Princeville are hundreds of private homes. Fort Alexander, RW During Schäffer’s brief adventure in the Hawaiian Islands, he also oversaw the construction of two forts in Hanalei:Fort Alexander and Fort Barclay. Fort Alexander stood above the mouth of the Hanalei River, and the outline of the foundation (now covered by a grass lawn) may now seen just adjacent to the Princeville Sheraton. A small pavilion includes displays with information about the old Russian fort. Queen’s Bath Queen’s Bath is a large pool formed by a depression worn into a lava shelf along the shoreline beneath the cliffs of Princeville. Use extreme caution in this area, however, because the shoreline around Queen’s Bath is directly exposed to the Pacific Ocean’s waves, and may create extremely dangerous conditions when winter swells arrive on Kaua‘i’s north shore. The pool known as Queen’s Bath is directly connected to the ocean, and dangerous conditions occur much of the winter and occasionally during the summer months. Numerous drownings and injuries have occurred at Queen’s Bath, so use extreme caution and do not go in the water when the waves are breaking. Remember, the larger waves often come in sets that may arrive only once every ten or twenty minutes, or longer. [Queen’s Bath, Directions: From Princeville’s main road, Ka Haku Road, turn makai (toward the ocean) on Punahele Road, and follow it to Kapi‘olani Loop where there is a small parking area near the trailhead. At the bottom of the trail, go about 260 yards (238 m) to the left.] Hanalei Valley Hanalei is a quiet little seaside town on Kaua‘i’s north shore. Known for its fine beaches as well as its scenic lo‘i kalo (taro patches), Hanalei is surrounded by steep green mountains on one side and the warm, blue waters of Hanalei Bay on the other side. Archaeological studies show that the early Polynesian settlers of the Hawaiian Islands were growing taro (Colocasia esculenta, taro) in Hanalei Valley at least 800 years ago. This tradition continues today as more than 60% of the taro grown in the Hawaiian Islands is grown in the Hanalei region, and most of it is milled into poi, still a staple of the Hawaiian diet. The Hanalei Valley Lookout is located alongside Kūhiō Highway (Route 56) just west of the Princeville Shopping Center. The Lookout provides amazing views of Hanalei Valley and the patchwork of lo‘i kalo (taro patches) on the Hanalei Valley floor. Flowing into Hanalei Bay are the rivers and streams of four major valleys, more properly known as ahupua‘a, the traditional Hawaiian land divisions extending from the mountains to the sea including the offshore coral reefs. The four ahupua‘a bordering Hanalei Bay are, from east to west: Hanalei, Wai‘oli, Waipā, and Waikoko. From the Hanalei Valley Lookout, Kūhiō Highway changes from Route 56 to Route 560, and descends a long hill into Hanalei Valley. At the bottom of the hill, the road crosses over the Hanalei Bridge, a historic one-lane truss-bridge built in 1912, and now considered the “gateway to Hanalei.” Hanalei Bridge is the Hawaiian Islands’ oldest American-made, steel, through-truss bridge, and the first of seven bridges North Shore bridges accommodating just one direction of traffic. The Hanalei Bridge is a single span, steel bridge spanning 113 feet (33.5 meters) over the Hanalei River. Hanalei Bridge was placed on the State and National Registers of Historic Places in 1978. Just past Hanalei Bridge is ‘Ōhiki Road, which leads along the Hanalei River to the historic Haraguchi Rice Mill, built in 1930 and now completely restored. The rice industry thrived in the Hawaiian Islands, and particularly in the Hanalei Valley, from the late 1800s to about 1930. By 1960 the Haraguchi Rice Mill was last operating mill, and today it is the only remaining rice mill in the Hawaiian Islands. Tours are given for educational groups by reservation (808-823-9287). A small parking area about ¾ mile (1.2 km) down ‘Ōhiki Road is near the trailhead leading on a nice hike up to a promontory overlooking Hanalei Valley and Hanalei Bay. After crossing over Hanalei Bridge, Kūhiō Highway (Route 560) meanders along the course of the Hanalei River alongside the taro fields until reaching the town of Hanalei. [Ho‘opulapula Haraguchi Rice Mill, 808-823-9287, 4708; ‘Ohiki Road, on Hanalei Valley National Wildlife Refuge.] Hanalei Town In the center of Hanalei Town is the old Ching Young Store building (1905), and several other structures from the rice era, including the Say Dock House (1895), and a former Japanese Shingon Buddhist Temple (1934). Just east of Aku Road is a former Hongwanji Japanese Buddhist Temple originally built in Līhu‘e in 1901 and then moved to Hanalei in 1985. Many historic Hanalei structures from the late 1800s and early 1900s are related to the region’s prosperous rice industry during that period. The rice farmers were primarily from China, until the Hawaiian Islands were annexed to the United States in 1898, and then the majority of rice farmers in Hanalei were immigrants from Japan. This was followed by the integration of numerous other ethnicities, including an influx of Filipino rice farmers in the Hanalei area in the 1930s. Also still standing in Hanalei Town is the Old Hanalei School, originally built in 1926 near the current Hanalei School (which is just down the road), and later moved to the center of town where it now houses shops and a restaurant. On the western end of Hanalei Town is St. Williams Catholic Church, built in 1955. The bell hanging in front of St. Williams is from Hanalei’s first Catholic Church, which was built near the Hanalei rivermouth in 1864. Across the street from St. Williams, in the old Kaua‘i Electric Building, is the relatively new Hanalei Poi Company, which mills the taro of the Hanalei region into poi that is sold throughout the Hawaiian Islands as well as in many United States Mainland markets. Just to the west of the Hanalei Poi Company is the Lily Pond dug there by Chock Chin, a prominent Hanalei rice farmer and store owner. Just behind and to the west of the Lily Pond is the building now known as the Lily Pond House, built in 1933 near the shore of Hanalei Bay and later moved on coconut tree rollers to its current site. Just to the west of these buildings is Wai‘oli Park, known by locals as the Hanalei soccer fields. On the far side of the park is Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church, built in 1912 by Sam, George, and Albert Wilcox in honor of their parents, the pioneer Wai‘oli missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox. The American Gothic style church is notable for its beautiful stained glass windows. Adjacent to Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church is Kaua‘i’s oldest surviving church building, Wai‘oli Mission Hall (the old Wai‘oli Church) and Wai‘oli Church Belfry, both built in 1841. The Belfry is the only surviving example of this type of structure in the Hawaiian Islands. The original bell, brought from Boston in 1843, is now in Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church belltower. Across the lawn and tucked back behind the trees, is the Wai‘oli Mission House, which was originally built from 1834 to 1837 by William Patterson Alexander, the north shore’s first missionary, along with hired carpenters. One of Kaua‘i’s first Western style frame houses, the Wai‘oli Mission House later became the residence of missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox, who served the Hanalei area from 1846 to 1869. Their descendants have left a legacy on Kaua‘i, from Grove Farm Plantation to Wilcox Hospital. In Hanalei town is Hanalei Poi Company, a poi mill co-owned by Wilcox descendant Hobey Beck and Bino Fitzgerald, who both continue to farm taro in the Hanalei region. The Wai‘oli Mission House was completely restored in 1921 along with Wai‘oli Mission Hall. A short distancefarther down the main road are two more historic bridges crossing over the streams flowing from the valleys of Waipā and Waikoko into Hanalei Bay. At Waipā, an ancient loko i‘a (fishpond) is being restored. Kūhiō Highway (Route 560) then curves closer to the white, sandy shoreline of Hanalei Bay as it passes the coastal regions of Wai‘oli, Waipā, and Waikoko valleys that border the long, curved shoreline of Hanalei Bay. At the western side of the bay the road climbs a hill and winds around a bend before descending into the valley of Lumaha‘i, which has its own spectacular beaches. [Wai‘oli Mission House, 808-245-3202, free guided tours, 9-3, Tues., Thurs., Sat.] [Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church, 808-826-6253; service Sun. at 10 a.m.] Hanalei Bay One block makai (toward the ocean) from Hanalei town is Weke Road, which leads to various beaches. Accessed from Weke Road are the beaches and surfing spots commonly known as Grandpas, Pine Trees, The Cape, Pavilions, and finally Kiddies, which is adjacent to Hanalei Pier. Hanalei Pier was originally built in 1892, and then rebuilt in 1911 when the rice industry was thriving and a longer, more substantial pier was needed. The rebuilt Hanalei Pier was completed in 1912 using the relatively new technique of reinforced concrete. The firm of Conney and Morris provided the architectural design for Hanalei’s new reinforced concrete pier. When the interisland steamer arrived, it docked in the bay’s deeper waters while cargo was rowed to and from the pier. The pier had a wooden deck, and at the foot of the pier was a freight storage warehouse connected to the pier by narrow gauge tracks. Remnants of the tracks may still be seen near the pier. In 1921, Hanalei Pier’s wooden deck was replaced with reinforced concrete and the pier was extended. Nāwiliwili Bay became the preferred loading and unloading point for freight after a breakwater was built there in the early 1930s. Hanalei Pier was listed on the National and State Register of Historic Places in 1979. Damage caused by Hurricane ‘Iniki on September 11, 1992, Hurricane ‘Iniki[84] required a major reconstruction of the pier. Many motion pictures have utilized Hanalei Pier in movie scenes. During the 1960 filming of Wackiest Ship in the Army (starring Jack Lemmon and Ricky Nelson), the filming barge at Hanalei came loose twice, causing damage to Hanalei Pier. Scenes from Bird of Paradise were filmed on Hanalei Bay in 1950. The popular movie South Pacific was filmed in 1957 near the Hanalei rivermouth and at other north shore sites. Other major movie productions with scenes filmed at Hanalei Pier include Miss Sadie Thompson (1953); Beachhead (1953); and Pagan Love Song (1950). The grass area between Hanalei Pier and the Hanalei rivermouth is known as Black Pot Beach Park. The park is named after the big black iron pot that was once used to cook fish caught during hukilau, when seine nets were used to trap groups of fish (huki means “to pull”; lau means “seine”). The catch was then shared among the members of the community. Lumaha‘i Just past Hanalei is Lumaha‘i Valley, including the deep sands of Lumaha‘i Beach. The first entrance to Lumaha‘i Beach is just past Mile Marker 4, where a shoulder on the side of the road provides a place to park. A trail leads down to the east end of the beach, which is often referred to by locals as “Tourist Lumaha‘i.” Farther down the road are some nice lookouts that provide great views over the north shore coastline. The road then descends a long hill, and at the bottom of the hill, about ¾-mile (1.2 km) past Mile Marker 5, is a turnoff to a parking area at the west end of Lumaha‘i Beach. From this location there are great views mauka (toward the mountains) up into the Lumaha‘i Valley. The west end of Lumaha‘i Beach is remarkably wide, especially at low tide. Look for patches of greenish sand along the shoreline from olivine mineral deposits washed up on the beach. At the far left (west) side of Lumaha‘i Beach is the rivermouth of the Lumaha‘i Stream, with a lava outcropping jutting out on the far side of the river. Swimming at Lumaha‘i Beach may be extremely dangerous during most of the winter and also sometimes during the summer months. Slamming shorebreak waves and strong nearshore currents combine to create the dangerous conditions. When the ocean is relatively calm, however, Lumaha‘i Beach is nice for swimming, particularly at the eastern end. One would be remiss not to mention that Lumaha‘i was the location where Mitzi Gaynor sang Wash That Man Right Out of my Hair in the 1957 movie South Pacific. Wainiha Wainiha Valley is the site of ancient lo‘i kalo (taro patches), heiau (sacred places of worship), and numerous other culturally important sites. A census in 1820 (Kaua‘i’s first census) stated that 65 people in Kaua‘i’s upper Wainiha Valley claimed their nationality to be menehune. Menehune are also known as a legendary race of ancient people of physically small size. [*However, no human skeletal remains of a physically small people have ever been found on Kaua‘i or on the other Hawaiian Islands. Of course this doesn’t mean that menehune never existed, and one never knows if, when night falls, menehune might mysteriously appear to ply their trades*] (see Menehune section, Chapter 3). A small store at Wainiha offers a last chance to get some supplies for the trip to the end of the road. Heading mauka (toward the mountains) from Wainiha on Wainiha Powerhouse Road (just before Mile Marker 7) leads up into the steep-walled Wainiha Valley. This area has no tourist attractions, just private homes tucked into the hillsides and along the river. Also up Wainiha Powerhouse Road is the Wainiha hydroelectric power plant, which was built by the McBryde Sugar Company in 1906 and remains in service today. Hā‘ena Hā‘ena (“Red hot”[85]), is located just west of Wainiha. Many of the homes in this area are built high off the ground (on “stilts”) with the intent of protecting them from tsunamis and floods. The 1957 tsunami destroyed or severely damaged more than 75 homes along Kaua‘i’s north shore, including 25 of the 29 homes in Hā‘ena. Located in Hā‘ena today are many small cottages along the beach as well as numerous larger estate homes. Hā‘ena is also the site of a YMCA camp as well as the Hanalei Colony Resort and an adjacent restaurant. [Hā‘ena, Kūhiō Highway (Route 560), past Wainiha to Kē‘ē.] Mākua (Tunnels) Beach The premier snorkeling and shore diving location on Kaua‘i’s north shore is Mākua, commonly known as Tunnels Beach due to the many underwater tunnels and caves in the reef or to the hollow shape of the waves at the popular surfing spot outside the reef. Mākua means “Parents.”[86] [Mākua, Kūhiō Highway (Route 560) between the Mile Markers 8 and 9. Due to the lack of available parking, Mākua (Tunnels) is best accessed by parking at Hā‘ena Beach Park and then walking back along the beach. Two unmarked dirt roads may have closer parking space. One is ½-mile (. 8 km) west of Mile Marker 8, and another is about ¼-mile (.4 km) further west.] National Tropical Botanical Garden—Limahuli Limahuli was established as a National Tropical Botanical Garden in 1976 by Mrs. Juliet Rice Wichman. The Limahuli Reserve was established in 1974 by Charles “Chipper” Wichman, who also added his own donation, another 985 acres (399 ha) of adjoining land. A 17-acre (6.9 ha) lower portion of the valley was opened to the public in 1995. The ancient taro terraces of Limahuli hearken to old Hawai‘i. The trail through the botanical garden is about 2/3-mile (.3 ha), passing many native and Polynesian-introduced plant species, and climbing about 200 feet (61 m) to an overlook with views of the north shore coastline and the Pacific Ocean. The American Horticultural Society recognized Limahuli’s excellent design as well as its research, conservation, and education efforts in 1997, naming Limahuli the United States’ best natural botanical garden. [National Tropical Botanical Garden, 808-826-1053 (tours/gift shop), 332-7631 (information), 5-829 Kūhiō Highway (Route 560), near Mile Marker #9 just before the end of the road. Open Tues.-Fri. and Sun. from 9:30-4. Guided tours are given from 10 to 2 by reservation; www.ntbg.org.] North Shore Caves Located near the western end of Kūhiō Highway (Route 560) near Kē‘ē Beach are three caves, including one dry cave and two wet caves. The caves at Kē‘ē were formed many thousands of years ago when the sea level was higher. The wet caves are associated with the Hawaiian volcano goddess Pele, who is said to have created these caves. The dry cave is called Manini-holo (“Traveling manini fish”[87]), and is located across from Hā‘ena Beach Park. Manini-holo Dry Cave has a relatively wide opening facing the road, and water drips down from the cave’s ceiling onto the dirt floor. The wet caves are called Waikapala‘e (“Waters [of] the lace fern”[88]), and Wai-a-kanaloa (“Water [used, made] by Kanaloa”[89]). Waikapala‘e is commonly known as the “Blue Room” due to the light shining into a chamber on the back right of the cave, which sometimes may only be accessed by swimming beneath the rock cave wall and then emerging into the interior cave. Other times the water level is lower, and it is possible to swim directly into the opening leading to the hidden interior cave. People have died in this cave, so use extreme caution. A bit farther down Kūhiō Highway (Route 560) and just to the side of the road is Wai-a-kanaloa. [Kē‘ē Caves, western end of Kūhiō Highway (Route 560).] Hā‘ena State Beach Park Kē‘ē Beach Kē‘ē Beach and the nearby Hā‘ean State Beach Park are located at the western end of Kūhiō Highway (Route 560)on Kaua‘i’s north shore. Kē‘ē is known for its crystalline clear blue waters as well as its prime location beneath majestic cliffs at the edge of the Nāpali Coast. A reef surrounding Kē‘ē Beach provides a great protected swimming area unless the waves beyond the reef are too large, in which case currents near the reef may be extremely dangerous. When the ocean is relatively calm (most of the summer and sometimes during winter), the area just outside of Kē‘ē’s fringing reef provides excellent snorkeling opportunities. According to Hawaiian legend, the body of the Kaua‘i chief Lohi‘au was placed in a cave on a cliff near the beach. This occurred after Lohi‘au died of his love for the volcano goddess Pele. Hi‘iaka (Pele’s sister) and her friend Wahine‘oma‘o (“Green woman”[90]) ascended the cliff and used prayers and herbs to bring Lohi‘au back to life, causing three rainbows to appear in the sky. The end of the road at Kē‘ē is also the site of the trailhead of the Kalalau Trail, which leads to the spectacular cliffs and spires of the Nāpali Coast. The trail begins mauka (on the mountain side) of Kūhiō Highway (Route 560) where it ends about 8 miles (9 km) past Hanalei. The Kalalau Trail leads over a rugged 11 miles (18 km), climbing and descending along the weather-worn coastline to the remote Kalalau Valley. (See Nāpali Coast below.) Just before the end of the road is a nice stream with a swimming hole appropriately known as pool the Cold Pond. This is a nice place to cool off on hot days, and rinse off the saltwater from the beach. [Kē‘ē Beach, west end of Kūhiō Highway (Route 560), dirt road on right leads to parking spots (the few spots at the end of the road are usually full).] Hula Heiau Located at the base of the cliffs just above the shoreline of Kē‘ē Beach is an important Hawaiian cultural area still revered for its place in Hawaiian history as well as its continuing mana (spiritual power). In pre-contact times, hula dancers and chanters came here from throughout the Hawaiian Islands, and perhaps from throughout Polynesia, to receive intense training from a kumu hula (hula teacher) in the arts of hula and mele (chanting). (See Hula and Mele section, Chapter 3.) One of the two heiau (ancient sacred places) at Kē‘ē is known as Ka-ulu-Paoa (“The inspiration [of] Paoa”[91]), referring to a legend regarding the Kaua‘i chief Lohi‘au and his friend Paoa, who trained in the sacred art of hula at the site beneath the lava cliffs. The stones showing the outline of the foundation still remain at Ka-ulu-Paoa, which is located about 150 feet (61 ha) past where the beach’s sand ends and the boulders begin. A hālau (a structure where hula was performed) was formerly located about 150 yards (137 m) up a stone path on the uppermost of the stone terraces above the shoreline of Kē‘ē, and beneath the mountain peak called Makana (“Gift”[92]). This peak is often referred to as Bali Hai due to its depiction as a mystical distant island in the 1957 movieSouth Pacific. Makana Mountain is a north shore landmark that can be seen from as far away as Kīlauea. Nearby to Ka-ulu-Paoa is another heiau, known as Ka-ulu-o-Laka (“The inspiration of Laka”[93]). A flat area and the remnants of a stone wall are all that remain of this important heiau dedicated to the hula goddess Laka, who was said to have begun her hula at this location. According to legend, this is also where the volcano goddess Pele first fell in love with the Kaua‘i chief Lohi‘au. A large rock located along the Kē‘ē shoreline at the base of the trail is known as Kilioe. The deeply-grooved basalt boulder is considered a pōhaku piko, where a baby’s piko (umbilical cord) is placed to help ensure a long and healthy life for the child. A large stone near Ka-ulu-o-Laka “...was named Kilioe for a mo-o goddess; umbilical cords of infants were deposited here.”[94] These sites are extremely sacred to the Hawaiian people, and should not be disturbed. Northwest Kaua‘i—The Nāpali Coast Ahupua‘a in the Moku of Nāpali Hanakāpī‘ai Beach The Nāpali Coast Ahupua‘a in the Moku of Nāpali The moku (chiefdom, or district) of Nāpali includes seven ahupua‘a, natural watershed land divisions extending from the ocean to the sea including the offshore coral reefs. These seven ahupua‘a of Nāpali (“The cliffs”[95]) include (in order from northwest to southwest): Hanakāpī‘ai (“Bay sprinkling food”[96]); Hanakoa (“Bay [of] koa trees or of warriors”[97]); Pōhaku‘au (“Swimming rock”[98]); Kalalau (“The straying”[99]); Honopū (“Conch bay”[100]); Awa‘awapuhi (“Ginger valley”[101]); and Nu‘alolo (“Brains heaped up”[102]). Hanakāpī‘ai Beach The trail to Hanakāpī‘ai is one of Kaua‘i’s most popular day hikes, taking about 1½ hours at a leisurely pace, including stops to enjoy the beautiful Nāpali scenery. After passing Hanakāpī‘ai Beach, the trail winds along the hillsides and doesn’t dip down to the ocean again until reaching Kalalau Valley (see below). Hanakāpī‘ai is a sandy, welcoming beach during the summer months, but during winter the sand is pulled out to sea leaving only rocks behind. Hanakāpī‘ai is also Kaua‘i’s most dangerous beach. More people have drowned at Hanakāpī‘ai than any other Kaua‘i beach, even though many other beaches on the island have a lot more visitors than Hanakāpī‘ai. Between 1970 and 2001, 28 drownings occurred at Hanakāpī‘ai, and most of the victims were never recovered. The Nāpali Coast Situated on Kaua‘i’s western side, the Nāpali Coast is one of Earth’s natural wonders. Eroded volcanic pinnacles stand sentinel over deep, ancient valleys. Coastal cliffs rise up steeply for thousands of feet into pointed spires. Castle-like turrets and razor-sharp ridges are lined with streaming waterfalls. The Nāpali Coast spans for about 15 miles of rugged coastline between the beaches of Kē‘ē on the northwest of Kaua‘i and Polihale on the southwest. [Illustration: Ahupua‘a of Nāpali] The moku (chiefdom, or district) of Nāpali includes seven ahupua‘a, the traditional Hawaiian land divisions that follow the natural watersheds and extend from the ocean to the sea including the offshore coral reefs. The seven ahupua‘a of Nāpali include (in order from northwest to southwest): Hanakāpī‘ai; Hanakoa; Pōhaku‘au; Kalalau; Honopū; Awa‘awapuhi; and Nu‘alolo. These seven major valleys of Nāpali become progressively drier as they extend from Kē‘ē to Polihale. The remote Nāpali valley of Kalalau is accessible only by boat or by the 11-mile trail that begins at the western end of Kūhiō Highway (Route 560) on Kaua‘i’s northern shore. Geologists long believed that large collapses of the coast created the Nāpali’s spectacular features, but recent geological research has determined that the steep cliffs and cathedral valleys of the Nāpali were formed primarily by wave action and stream runoff, both of which cause erosion.[103] [Photograph: Nāpali Coast] The Story of Ko‘olau, Pi‘ilani, and Kaleimanu in Kalalau Valley One of Hawai‘i’s most tragic and most touching love stories is the story of Ko‘olau, his wife Pi‘ilani, and their young child, Kaleimanu. Kaluaiko‘olau (Ko‘olau) was born in Kekaha, Kaua‘i in 1862, and his childhood sweetheart, Pi‘ilani, was born in Kekaha in 1864. Ko‘olau and Pi‘ilani were married and had one son, named Kaleimanu. In 1892, Ko‘olau contracted Hansen’s disease (leprosy), a disease that had no treatment or cure. Ko‘olau was told he must go to Kalaupapa, the isolated leper colony on the island of Moloka‘i, and his beloved wife and child would not be allowed to accompany him. Ko‘olau and Pi‘ilani vowed to each other that they would never be separated. They left their Kekaha home for the remote valley of Kalalau on Kaua‘i’s western coast. With their young child, Ko‘olau and Pi‘ilani rode horses from their home in Kekaha to the top of Waimea Canyon, and then to the ridgetop above the Nāpali Coastline. Descending on foot down the precipitous trail into Kalalau Valley, they joined other leprosy victims who had also sought refuge from authorities. In 1893, all the people in Kalalau with leprosy were rounded up and sent to Kalaupapa, but Ko‘olau refused to go. Ko‘olau let it be known that anyone seeking to force him to go to Kalaupapa would be doing so at the peril of their life. Deputy Sheriff Louis Stoltz of Waimea pursued Ko‘olau in Kalalau Valley, intending to capture him dead or alive. Ko‘olau was a well respected paniolo (cowboy) in the Waimea region, and was known as an expert marksman. Stoltz, with his gun cocked, approached Ko‘olau and his family, and was shot and killed by Ko‘olau. The news of Stoltz’s death quickly reached Kaua‘i’s acting sheriff, George Norton Wilcox, who then sent the armed forces of Hawai‘i’s Provisional Government to capture or kill the rebellious Ko‘olau. When the soldiers arrived, Ko‘olau and Pi‘ilani and their son retreated to a well-protected cave, known as Waimakemake, beneath an overhanging cliff. By this time, Kaleimanu had also begun to show signs of leprosy. As the first soldier approached Waimakemake, he was shot dead by Ko‘olau. The next day another soldier pursuing Ko‘olau was also shot dead. The soldiers then left the area to get reinforcements and better weapons, finally allowing Ko‘olau and his family to move to a higher location in the valley. They had endured four days without food and water. The Provisional Government soldiers soon returned to Kalalau and proceeded to fire powerful artillery guns at Waimakemake, blasting the location for several days until they believed their intended targets had been killed. The soldiers then left Kalalau without discovering that Ko‘olau, Pi‘ilani and Kaleimanu were still alive and living in the highlands of Kalalau. For the next two years, Ko‘olau, Pi‘ilani, and Kaleimanu lived in the highlands of Kalalau. Then the young Kaleimanu passed away due to the leprosy. The distraught parents continued their remote existence in Kalalau for another year before Ko‘olau also fell prey to the terrible ravages of the disease. The grieving Pi‘ilani used a small knife to dig a hole in the earth and bury her beloved husband along with his rifle. More than three years had passed since they first went into hiding at Kalalau. During this whole time they had not talked to anyone, except two brief encounters with Kalalau residents just a short time before Ko‘olau died. After the death of her husband, Pi‘ilani remained living in isolation in Kalalau Valley for about two more months. Then she climbed to the to the top of the Nāpali ridge and walked back to her home in Kekaha, where she was reunited with her family and friends who she had left behind more than three years earlier. After her return to Kekaha, government authorities questioned Pi‘ilani and decided not to prosecute her for being with Ko‘olau when he shot Deputy Sheriff Stoltz and the soldiers. Pi‘ilani lived out her days in Kekaha, passing away in 1914.[104] She wrote the story of these events in the Hawaiian language, and a translation by Frances N. Frazier, titledThe True Story of Kaluaikoolau as Told by his Wife, Piilani, was published by the Kaua‘i Historical Society in 2001. [Photographs: Ko‘olau, Pi‘ilani and Kaleimanu; Kalalau] Southwestern Kaua‘i Waimea Town / Waimea Bay When Captain James Cook reached the Hawaiian Islands in 1778, he sailed the Resolution and Discovery into Kaua‘i’s Waimea Bay. This was the first place Captain Cook stepped onto land in the Hawaiian Islands, officially establishing Western contact with the Hawaiian Islands. (See Captain Cook section, Chapter 3.) Today Captain Cook is memorialized by the Captain James Cook Monument, a statue alongside the main road in Waimea’s Hofgaard Park, Waimea’s town square. The statue of Captain Cook in Waimea is a replica of the original statue that was crafted by Sir John Tweed in Whitby, England (Cook’s hometown). The landing of Captain Cook at Waimea is also memorialized by a plaque at Lucy Wright Beach Park on the western bank of the mouth of the Waimea River, where Cook first came ashore. Lucy Wright Beach Park is named after Waimea schoolteacher Lucy Wright, a native Hawaiian and prominent local community member who taught in Waimea for 35 years. She passed away in 1931. Shade trees at Lucy Wright Beach Park make it a nice picnic spot, but the waters may be somewhat muddied by the Waimea River. Camping and picnic facilities are available. Waimea town’s numerous small wooden buildings and false front buildings give it an Old West feel. The First Hawaiian Bank, built in 1929 in the Neoclassical style, is located near the town square alongside Kaumuali‘i Highway(Hwy. 50). The restored 1938 Waimea Theatre, built in the Art Deco style, recently began to show movies again. On Mākeke Road in Waimea is the old Waimea Christian Hawaiian and Foreign Church, notable for its fine stonework. The church was originally constructed in 1846 using limestone blocks quarried nearby, as well as logs from the nearby mountains. On the western side of Waimea alongside Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50) is the old sugar mill of the Waimea Sugar Company, which was established in 1884. [Waimea Beach Park, 1 block south of Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50); look for sign just west of the bridge over the Waimea River).] Menehune Ditch (Kīkī-a-Ola) The Menehune Ditch is located about 1¼ miles (18 km) up Menehune Road from Waimea. This remarkable feat of engineering and stonework was built to bring water from the upper Waimea River to the lo‘i kalo (taro patches) in the valley. As the name implies, Menehune Ditch is said to have been built by the legendary ancient race of people known as menehune (See Menehune section, Chapter 3.) The Hawaiian name for the Menehune Ditch is Kīkī-a-Ola, which translates to “Container [acquired] by Ola. (Chief Ola ordered the Menehune to build a watercourse here; each brought a stone, and the ditch was finished in a single night.”[105]) The aqueduct originally spanned several miles and had walls that were an estimated 24 feet (7.3 m) high, with a footpath along the top of the wall. The small remaining section of Menehune Ditch is about 50 feet (15 m) long by 2 feet (.6 m) wide. The stones of the Menehune Ditch are flanged and fitted so that the smooth, flattened surfaces fit closely together. This type of cut and dressed stonework is not found anywhere else in the Hawaiian Islands. The origins and methods used in the construction of the Menehune Ditch remain a mystery. Some researchers theorize that the Menehune Ditch was built by the early Marquesan settlers, who arrived in theHawaiian Islands about A.D. 200 to 800,[106]and are thus considered the first “native Hawaiians.” It is possible that these first settlers of the Hawaiian Islands were responsible for the unique method of stonework used on the Menehune Ditch. This type of craftsmanship is not seen in the projects of later Tahitian settlers, who began arriving in the Hawaiian Islands around A.D. 1.000. (See Chapter 11, Timeline of Hawaiian History, Chapter 11). The destruction of Menehune Ditch was caused by the creation of Menehune Road as well as the use of the ditch’s rocks for building projects, including Waimea’s Protestant church. [Menehune Ditch, Menehune Road, about 1¼ mile (2 km) from Waimea (near the suspension footbridge), Waimea Valley.] Fort Elizabeth The remains of Fort Elizabeth are located on the east bank of the Wailua rivermouth just east of Waimea town. Fort Elizabeth was built in the design of a six-pointed star, and was once a formidable stone-walled structure. Today a significant amount of the fort remains, giving a glimpse into a short but significant period of Kaua‘i’s history. Fort Elizabeth at the Waimea rivermouth was named in honor of the consort of the Russian Emperor, Empress Elizabeth (1779-1826). The walls of the Fort Elizabeth were once up to 20 feet (6 m) high and up to 17 feet (5 m) wide at the base. The fort was built entirely by hand, and included about 1,200 feet (366 m) of walls. The story began after the Russian ship Behring became stranded on the shores of Kaua‘i’s Waimea Bay on January 31, 1815. The ship’s cargo of sealskins was confiscated by Kaua‘i’s ruler, Kaumuali‘i, who had already ceded Kaua‘i to King Kamehameha I in 1810 to avoid war. The confiscation of the ship’s cargo caused the Russian-American Company (the owner of the ship and its cargo) to send Georg Anton Schäffer to the Hawaiian Islands to retrieve the cargo or seek appropriate payment.[107] On May 21, 1816, Kaumuali‘i signed a document with Schäffer that put Kaua‘i under the protection of the Russian Empire, though neither Schäffer nor Kaumuali‘i had the authority for such an agreement. On July 1, 1816, Schäffer and Kaumuali‘i entered into a secret agreement to use Schäffer’s (purported) Russian authority to reclaim Kaua‘i from King Kamehameha I, and also to launch expeditions against the other islands that Kaumuali‘i felt he had a hereditary right to rule. In return, Schäffer was to receive land in those islands, including half of O‘ahu as well as rights to all of the valuable sandalwood (Santalum species; Hawaiian name: ‘iliahi) growing on O‘ahu. While Schäffer was to supply ships, ammunition, and men, Kaumuali‘i would supply 500 men as well as food and provisions for the forces. On September 21, 1816, Kaumuali‘i gave Schäffer Hanalei Valley in exchange for the ship Lydia. A significant portion of the fort at Waimea was completed by November of 1816, including the walls facing Waimea River and the ocean.[108] The Russian flag was raised over Fort Elizabeth,[109] and the fort’s guns were positioned to protect the anchorage’s trading vessels. Thirty-eight cannons stood pointed at Waimea Bay. Things changed quickly for Schäffer after Russia’s Lieutenant Otto von Kotzebue arrived in the Hawaiian Islands on November 21, 1816, aboard the Russian Navy brig Rurik. Kotzebue repudiated the activities of Schäffer, and informed King Kamehameha I that Schäffer did not have the support of the Russian Emperor. In May of 1817, Kaumuali‘i was informed that Russia and America were at war, though this was not true, and was instead part of a plot by Americans in the Hawaiian Islands who wanted to make Kaumuali‘i fearful of his association with Schäffer (because an association with Russia would put Kaumuali‘i in a precarious position as an enemy of America). The plan against Schäffer worked perfectly, and Kaumuali‘i promptly renounced his previous agreement with Schäffer, whowas then run out of Waimea by about 1,000 men. Today the remains of Fort Elizabeth include lava rock walls up to 10 feet (3 m) tall as well as informational displays. Fort Elizabeth was also the site of an 1824 battle when a rebellion against the rule of King Kamehameha II(Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho) was thwarted. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1824.) [Fort Elizabeth, Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50), on the east side of the Waimea rivermouth, just east of Waimea town.] Barking Sands Airfield & Pacific Missile Range Facility The Pacific Missile Range Facility is a United States Navy test facility where advanced weapons testing takes place. Located on Kaua‘i‘s west side along the Mānā shoreline, the military site encompasses nearly 2,000 acres (809 ha), and is home to Star Wars missile tests as well as extensive submarine exercises. Barking Sands Beach borders part of the facility’s coastline area. The beach’s name is due to the thin silica coating on the beach’s sand grains, which are known to sometimes make a sound resembling barking dogs. This area was once an army base and a beach near the former officer’s quarters is now known as Major’s Bay, a popular surfing spot. The island of Ni‘ihau can be seen across the Kaulakahi Channel. Access to the beach is through the gate, just past Mile Marker 32. [Barking Sands Airfield & Pacific Missile Range Facility, Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50). Access information: 808-335-4229.] Polihale State Park Located near the western end of Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50), Polihale State Park encompasses 140 acres (57 ha) on Kaua‘i’s southwest shoreline. The expansive beach is up to 100 yards (91 m) wide with sand dunes up to 100 feet (30 m) high (see directions below). Polihale means “House bosom.”[110] To get to the swimming area at Polihale known as Queen’s Pond, turn left at the monkeypod tree (see directions below), and go about ¼ mile (.4 km), and then go up the hill on the right. From there it is just a few minutes walk north to Queen’s Pond, a semicircle of coral reef that forms a swimming area usually protected from the surf and currents. If the ocean waves are big, however, a strong and potentially dangerous current pulls toward the southern end. Polihale’s sand dunes extend far up onto the shoreline, providing great spots for camping or just enjoying the day. An ancient heiau (sacred place of worship), now overgrown with brush, is located near where the beach ends and the Nāpali Coast begins. The cliffs in this area are known as Hā‘ele‘ele (“Blackish”[111]). According to legend, the cliffs were considered a jumping off point for ‘uhane (spirits) as they left this world. The vast, wide stretch of sand at Polihale extends all the way back to the town of Kekaha. The 60-foot (18-m) high coastal dunes of Barking Sands (see above) are located at the south end of Polihale. On the north end of Polihale cliffs block the way toward the Nāpali Coast, which is accessible only by boat or by the Kalalau Trail, which begins on the other side of the island at the end of Kūhiō Highway (Route 560) on Kaua‘i’s north shore. [Polihale State Park, western end of Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50). Directions: go left on the dirt road about ¾ mile (1.2 km) past the Barking Sands military base; drive about 3-1/3 miles (5.4 km) down the dirt road to the large monkeypod tree. Going straight at the tree leads to park facilities, including a pavilion, restrooms, and camping areas. Turning left at the tree leads to Queen’s Pond.] Waimea Canyon / Kōke‘e State Park Mark Twain called Waimea Canyon the “Grand Canyon of the Pacific,” and it lives up to the comparison. About 10 miles (16 km) long and more than 3,500 feet (1,067 m) deep, Waimea Canyon is up to 2 miles (3.2 km) wide with red canyon walls that shimmer in the changing light. Amidst the buttes and gorges at the bottom of the canyon is the Waimea River and its tributaries carving a course toward the ocean. Waimea Canyon Drive (Hwy. 550) begins near the town of Waimea and follows the western ridgeline of Waimea Canyon north to Kōke‘e State Park. Waimea Canyon Lookout is located just north of Mile Marker 10 at an elevation of about 3,400 feet (1,036 m). Visible from this spot is Koai‘e Canyon, which runs to the east off Waimea Canyon. Also along the route are spectacular views into Waimea Canyon at Pu‘u-ka-PeleLookout and Pu‘u-hinahinaLookout. At the top of the road is Kōke‘e State Park and the Alaka‘i Swamp. Kōke‘e State Park and Waimea Canyon may also be reached from Kekaha by taking Kōke‘e Road (Hwy. 552), which joins Waimea Canyon Drive (Hwy. 550) about 7 miles (11 km) up from Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50). Along Kōke‘e Road are great views of the island of Ni‘ihau as well as Kaua‘i’s Mānā Plain. The Alaka‘i Swamp is located at an elevation of about 4,000 feet (1,220 m) in an ancient crater that is now a soggy marsh where the acidic soil produces a variety of strange, stunted vegetation, such as mature ‘ōhi‘a lehua (Metrosiderosspecies) that are less than 2 feet (61 cm) tall. In normal soil these trees would be about 40 feet (12 m) tall. The Alaka‘i is the world’s highest elevation swamp, and supports a rich wonderland of rare and often strange-looking native species, some endemic (unique) to the Alaka‘i Swamp. The Alaka‘i totals about 20 square miles (52 sq. km) in size. Kōke‘e State Park has about 45 miles (72 km) of hiking trails. Also in the park is the Kōke‘e Natural History Museum, which provides numerous exhibits on the region’s native flora and fauna as well as a great display on hurricanes. The Museum also has a gift shop that sells books and maps. After passing the Kōke‘e Lodge and Natural History Museum, Waimea Canyon Drive (Hwy. 550) climbs up through native forest, past the round dome of the Kōke‘e Air Force Station to the Kalalau Lookout (at Mile Marker 18). Perched atop Kōke‘e’s coastal cliffs, the Kalalau Lookout provides stunning views of Kaua‘i’s hidden treasure, the western shore’s fabled Nāpali Coast, where steep green ramparts laced with waterfalls rise up from the ocean into steep spires and castle-like turrets standing watch over the remote Nāpali valley of Kalalau. Kalalau Valley is accessible only by boat or by the 11-mile (18-km) trail that begins at the western end of Kūhiō Highway (Route 560) on Kaua‘i’s northern shore. About 1 mile (1.6 km) past the Kalalau Lookout is Pu‘u-o-Kila Lookout, at an elevation of 4,176 feet (1,273 m) above sea level. Pu‘u-o-Kila (“Kila’s Hill”[112]) provides stunning views of Kalalau Valley and the Nāpali Coast. Place Names of Hawaii (1974) states that, “Kila, the favorite son of Moikeha, a ruling chief of O‘ahu and direct descendant of Wākea, the first man, is the hero of many legends, most of which recount a journey to Kahiki; in some versions he was a chief of Kaua‘i.”[113] Pu‘u o Kila Lookout is also the beginning of the Pihea Trail, which follows the valley rim for about 1 mile (1.6 km) and then heads into the Alaka‘i Swamp. The beginning of the trail follows the scar of a 1954 attempt by Hawai‘i’s Territorial Government (using prison labor) to build a road along the valley rim and then down to Hā‘ena on Kaua‘i’s north shore. Two popular festivals take place each year at Kōke‘e. The Banana Poka Festival takes place each May and is dedicated to raising awareness about aggressive, non-native species that threaten the native ecosystems in the Hawaiian Islands. One of these invasive species is the Banana Poka vine (Passiflora mollissima), which produces edible fruits that are eaten by wild pigs. The pigs then spread the seeds of the non-native vine, which now blankets large areas of native forest and strangles native trees. Another popular annual event at Kōke‘e is the Eō E Emmalani I Alaka‘i Festival, which takes place each October and includes a hula program commemorating Queen Emma’s 1870 journey up to the highlands forests of the Alaka‘i Swamp and Kōke‘e. Accompanying Queen Emma was her sizable retinue including hula dancers and musicians. Guided by an elderly Hawaiian named Kaluahi, the group stopped at the edge of a valley known as Kauaikananā, (“The rain defied.”[114]) The group rested while music and hula dancing entertained the Queen, who also recited chants.[115] At this point the horses had to be left behind and the group descended on foot into the valley toward the Alaka‘i. The first night was spent at Waineki (“Bulrush water”[116]) in the Aiponui forest, where a platform made from branches of ‘ōhi‘a lehua(Metrosideros species) was built for the Queen.[117] The royal party, including Queen Emma’s retinue of hula dancers and musicians, eventually reached the end of the trail where the Kilohana Overlook provided spectacular views of Wainiha Valley and Kaua‘i’s north shore. Kilohana means “Lookout Point.”[118]. In honor of the mountain journey the queen’s Lāwa‘i estate was renamed Mauna Kilohana.(See National Tropical Botanical Garden above). After Queen Emma returned from her mountain journey, a large lū‘au (Hawaiian feast) was held for her in Waimea. The lū‘au took place on January 29, 1871 at the Kapuniai residence of Kaikio‘ewa, the former Governor of Kaua‘i.[119] This house was built in 1830 above the old Waimea dispensary, and today serves as the home of the pastor of the Waimea United Church of Christ. [Kōke‘e State Park / Alaka‘i Swamp, 808-335-9975, Waimea Canyon Drive (Highway 550), open 10-4 daily.] [Kōke‘e Natural History Museum, 808-335-9975, Kōke‘e State Park, Waimea Canyon Drive (Hwy. 550) from Kekaha, open 10-4 daily, www.aloha.net/c.kokee/] Awa‘awapuhi Trail One of the most awesome views on Kaua‘i is seen from atop the narrow ridge at the end of Kōke‘e’s Awa‘awapuhi Trail. At the end of the trail is a narrow ridge just a couple of feet wide that provides dizzying views on both sides where the cliffs drop straight down for thousands of feet. On the right side is Awa‘awapuhi Valley, and on the left side is Nu‘alolo Valley. Both of these verdant valleys wind their way down to the cobalt blue Pacific Ocean. Nu‘alolo Trail Nu‘alolo Trail winds its way through native forest and along the canyon edge overlooking the Nāpali Coast. The trailhead begins off Kōke‘e Road just before the turnoff to the Park headquarters. The first ¼-mile (.4 km) of the Nu‘alolo trail is relatively steep, and enters into the Ku‘ia National Area Reserve. The trail then begins a steady descent, entering a wetter forest area and traveling along a ridge. This part of the trail is known as Nu‘alolo Bench Trail. Around the 3-mile (4.8-km) mark, the trail intersects with Nu‘alolo Cliff Trail, which connects with Awa‘awapuhi Trail (see above). Following further along the Nu‘alolo Trail leads to Lolo Vista Point, which provides great views of Nu‘alolo Valley.
Part II: Kaua‘i History Mythology and Pre-Contact History of Kaua‘i Wākea and Hāloa The Menehune Menehune Ditch—Kīkī-a-Ola The Old Way of Life Taro—The Hawaiian Staff of Life Poi Hula Heiau—Sacred Hula Training Site of Ancient Hawai‘i The Origins of Hula Traditions of Hula Sacred Heiau of Wailua ‘Oahi—The Fire Throwing Ceremony ‘Alekoko (Menehune) Fishpond Inter and Intra Island Struggles King Kaumuali‘i and the Invasion Attempts of King Kamehameha I Kekaiha‘akūlou—Queen Deborah Kapule Humehume—Leader of Kaua‘i’s Last Rebellion Prince Jonah Kūhiō—Kaua‘i’s Native Son Queen Emma’s Journey to the Alaka‘i Western Contact—Explorers, Russians, and Whalers The Arrival of Captain Cook—First Landfall at Waimea Ships Visiting Kaua‘i in the 1700’s Russian Forts on Kaua‘i The Whaling Era Missionaries and Churches Kaua‘i’s Missionaries Gulick-Rowell House The Wai‘oli Mission Station The Wilcox Legacy Sugar Early Days Kōloa Immigration Plantations and Mills Līhue Sugar Plantation Kīlauea Sugar Company Grove Farm Sugar Plantation McBryde Sugar Plantation Kilohana The Rice Era Rice Farming Kaua‘i’s First Cattle Ranch Movies on Kaua‘i—Frank Sinatra, Elvis Presley, and John Wayne The Story of Princeville
Kaua‘i History Mythology / Pre-Contact History Wākea and Hāloa Polynesian legends describe how kalo (taro) existed even before the first humans. An ancient chant recounts how Wākea, the god of the sky, had to bury his first son because the child was born as a shapeless mass. The next day a taro plant grew up from the location and Wākea named the plant-child Hāloa-naka (“Long, trembling stem”). Wākea’s second son was a boy that Wākea named Hāloa-naka-lau-kapalili (“Long-stalk-quaking-trembling-leaf stem”). Hāloa was considered to be the first human, thus the taro plant was considered the oldest ancestor of all humans. The Menehune The legend of the Menehune describes an ancient race of Kauaians who were very small, but very skilled, and with a supernatural strength. The Menehune were said to have built many structures, including roads, dams, ‘auwai (irrigation canals), and heiau (sacred places of worship)—and everything they built was constructed in a single night. Each Menehune was a master of a certain craft and had one special function they accomplished with great precision and expertise. The Menehune would set out at dark to build something, and if they failed to complete the project in one night it would be abandoned. There remains some mystery surrounding the exact origin of the stories about Menehune. Some speculate the word Menehune comes from the word “manahune,” or “common people” (common laborers), referring to the early Marquesan[120] settlers of Hawai‘i who were later dominated by Tahitian settlers, and made to perform the hardest work, including stonework. The term “Menehune” may have been a reference not to the Marquesan settlers’ small size but instead to their lower status in the social system, leading to a myth about a small race of people. This is just one possible explanation of the still very mysterious story of the Menehune. Menehune Ditch—Kīkī-a-Ola The Menehune Ditch, located just above Waimea town, is a remarkable feat of engineering and stonework built to bring water from the upper Waimea River to the lo‘i kalo (taro patches) in the valley. As the name implies, Menehune Ditch is said to have been built by the legendary ancient race of people known as Menehune. The Hawaiian name for the Menehune Ditch is Kīkī-a-Ola, which translates to “Container [Acquired] by Ola,”[121] referring to the chief who ordered the building of the watercourse (the “channel”), which was said to have been constructed in a single night. Just a small section of Menehune Ditch remains today, measuring about 50 feet long by two feet wide. The aqueduct originally spanned several miles and had walls that were an estimated 24 feet high, with a footpath along the top.[122] The stones of the Menehune Ditch, some of which are 3 feet wide, 5 feet long, and 3 feet deep, are flanged and fitted so that the smooth, flattened surfaces fit closely together, some with a peg in one stone that fits into a whole in another stone. This type of cut and dressed stonework is not found anywhere else in the Hawaiian Islands. The origins and methods used in the construction of the Menehune Ditch remain a mystery. Some researchers theorize that the Menehune Ditch was built by the first native Hawaiians, the early Marquesan settlers who arrived in Hawai‘i about A.D. 200 to 800.[123] These first settlers of the Hawaiian Islands may have been responsible for the unique method of stonework used on the Menehune Ditch, since this type of craftsmanship is not seen in the projects of later Tahitian settlers, who began arriving in the Hawaiian Islands around A.D. 1200. The Old Way of Life Taro—The Hawaiian Staff of Life Hawaiians grew taro for centuries before Western contact was established by Captain Cook in 1778. Taro is an ancient crop, mentioned in Chinese sources dating to 100 B.C. It was eaten in ancient Egypt and later in many other places around the globe, including Africa, Indonesia, and Central America. It was only in the Hawaiian Islands, however, that taro cultivation reached intensive levels, with as many as 300 varieties grown from only about twelve original varieties brought to Hawai‘i by the early Polynesian settlers on their voyaging canoes. The taro plant may reach heights of more than three feet, with large heart-shaped lū‘au (leaves) that arise in a cluster from an underground corm that is similar to a large potato. In ancient times, most taro varieties were grown for poi production, and were distinguished from one another by variations petioles (leaf stems) and the corms. Taro corms may be bluish lavender, purple, red, white, or yellow. Taro was a staple food of the Polynesians, and all parts of the taro plant are edible when cooked, including the lū‘au. A pudding-like mix known as kūlolo was made by sweetening grated taro corm with kō (sugarcane) and mixing it with the grated flesh and water of niu (coconut). This mixture was wrapped in leaves of kī (ti), and baked in an imu (underground earthen oven). Taro also had numerous other important uses to the ancient Hawaiians, including as a bait for ‘ōpelu fish (mackerel scad), an adhesive to hold pieces of kapa (tapa) barkcloth together, a dye used to color kapa barkcloth, and numerous medicinal uses. One medicinal formulation including taro was used as a purgative, and was prepared by mixing the corm of taro with the sap of nuts of kukui (candlenut). The sap of the taro leaf stem was applied to cuts in order to help stop the bleeding and begin the healing process. Offshoots of a mature taro plant are known as ‘ohā, and grow in a circle around the parent plant. The ‘ohā eventually grow into mature taro plants producing their own circle of ‘ohā. In this way a single taro plant may eventually produce enough offshoots to fill a whole lo‘i kalo (taro patch). The ever-widening circle of ‘ohā is called the ‘ohana, and serves as a model for the extended Hawaiian family, also known as ‘ohana. Taro was one of the most important crops of ancient Hawai‘i. Using well-engineered canals called ‘auwai, water was diverted from rivers into lo‘i kalo, the large ponds where taro was grown. The water was then channeled back into the stream. This irrigation process continues today, and some of the original ‘auwai are still in use. Poi In ancient Hawai‘i, the poi making process involved using a sharpened shell of an ‘opihi (limpet) or another shell or a stone to peel the cooked taro corm. The corm was then broken up and mashed with a stone poi pounder as small amounts of water were added to prevent sticking. Calabashes to hold poi were made from ipu (bottle gourds), while bowls to hold poi were made from particular types of wood, including the native kou tree as well as the Polynesian-introduced milo and kamani trees. These species were preferred for calabashes because their wood, unlike koa, does not have tannic acid that spoils the poi’s flavor. During journeys, poi was stored in lau hala (leaves of the hala tree), and these food bundles were known as holo ‘ai. The most common poi pounder used in ancient times was the pōhaku ku‘i ‘ai, which had a flared base and a narrow neck with a knob on top to keep the hand from slipping. Another style of poi pounder, which was used on Kaua‘i, was the pōhaku ku‘i ‘ai puka, often referred to as a ring pounder because of the hole through the center of the handle that forms an arch that is gripped with the thumbs of both hands. Poi was pounded on papa ku‘i ‘ai (poi boards), which were usually made from the trunk of the ‘ulu (breadfruit tree). Hula Heiau—Sacred Hula Training Site of Ancient Hawai‘i In pre-contact times, hula dancers and chanters came to Kaua‘i’s north shore from throughout the Hawaiian Islands, and perhaps from throughout Polynesia, to receive intense training from a kumu hula (hula master) in the sacred arts of Hawaiian hula and mele (chanting). According to legend, the first hula occurred when Pele, the goddess of fire and volcanoes, wanted her sisters to entertain her with song and dance. Only Pele’s youngest sister, Hi‘iaka, would comply, and she performed gracefully and powerfully for Pele to the amazement of all. Today hula is a beautiful art form and culturally significant practice that embraces and perpetuates Hawaiian history, legends, and culture. Two heiau (sacred areas) are located at the base of the cliffs just above the shoreline of Kē‘ē Beach on Kaua‘i’s north shore. One of the heiau at Kē‘ē is known as Ka-ulu-Paoa (“The inspiration [of] Paoa”[124]), referring to a legend regarding the Kaua‘i chief Lohi‘au and his friend Paoa, who trained in the art of hula at the site beneath the lava cliffs. Nearby to Ka-ulu-Paoa is another heiau, known as Ka-ulu-o-Laka (“The inspiration of Laka”[125]). A flat area and the remnants of a stone wall are all that remain of this important heiau dedicated to the hula goddess Laka, who is said to have begun her hula at this location. This is also said to be where the volcano goddess Pele first fell in love with the handsome Lohi‘au. Towering above the two heiau is the mountain peak called Makana (“Gift”[126]), a north shore landmark. A large rock located along the Kē‘ē shoreline at the base of the trail is known as Kilioe. The deeply-grooved basalt boulder is considered a pōhaku piko, where a baby’s piko (umbilical cord) is placed to help ensure a long and healthy life for the child. The hula heiau site at Kē‘ē is an important cultural area still revered for its place in Hawaiian history as well as its continuing mana (spiritual power). Just beneath the peak of Makana and the sacred hula heiau is Kē‘ē Beach, one of the north shore’s most scenic beaches. Known for its crystalline clear blue waters as well as its prime location, Kē‘ē is the gateway to the majestic cliffs of the Nāpali Coast. According to Hawaiian legend, the body of the Kaua‘i chief Lohi‘au was placed in a cave on a cliff near the beach after Lohi‘au died of his love for the volcano goddess Pele. Hi‘iaka (Pele’s sister) and her friend Wahine‘oma‘o (“Green woman”[127]) ascended the cliff and used prayers and herbs to bring Lohi‘au back to life, causing three rainbows to appear in the sky. A fringing reef surrounding Kē‘ē Beach provides a great protected swimming area unless the waves beyond the reef are too large. Nearby is the trailhead leading to the spectacular cliffs and spires of the Nāpali Coast. The Kalalau Trail leads over a rugged eleven miles, climbing and descending along the weather-worn coastline to the remote Kalalau Valley. The Origins of Hula Hula and mele chants are the ancient way that Hawaiians tell their stories, pay reverence to nature, and unite mind, body and spirit with all of creation. The essence of hula is to go inward, to touch one’s center. Dancers are especially aware of their feet touching the earth, and of the earth itself, which is felt to be the source of the power of the dance. Hula and mele are also a celebration of the beauty of the heart of the Hawaiian people, their love and aloha. The two main forms of hula are ‘auana and kahiko. ‘Auana is the more modern style of hula, which is characterized by undulating movements and is usually accompanied by a Hawaiian band. Kahiko, which means ancient, is the older and more traditional form of hula. In kahiko, an invocation precedes each dance, and the women often wear knee-length skirts made from flat green leaves of kī (ti). They may also wear a necklace made from the polished nuts of the kukui tree, or lei ‘ā‘ī (draping vines or flowers). Bracelets of ferns around their wrists and ankles are known as kūpe‘e. The lei po‘o encircles the dancer’s head, which is traditionally graced with long, dark flowing hair. Hula and mele help Hawaiians remember their origins and give thanks for all of the many natural wonders that enrich their world, including the birds, fish, flowers, trees, mountains, streams, ocean, wind and sky. Chants are enhanced by hula, and both are integral parts of Hawaiian spirituality that carry on the ancient legends and history of the Hawaiian people and help Hawaiians retain a connection to their past. Hula brings forth the meanings of the chants, similar to how the form of poetry may give life to a poem. Performed by those trained in the art, hula and mele are infused with all the power and history of the Hawaiian people, telling tales of migrations, genealogies, myths, customs and traditions. There are stories of longing for loved ones and stories of grief over deaths, stories of heroic explorations and stories of love. The Hawaiian culture is sustained by this oral tradition captured in the lyrics of the chants. Traditions of Hula Traditional instruments that accompany hula include the pahu hula, a drum made from the trunk of a coconut or breadfruit tree, with a drumhead made of sharkskin. Drumming sticks to keep beat are called lā‘au ho‘okani pahu. Also used are pū‘ili (split bamboo rattles) and ‘ulī‘ulī, gourd rattles that contain seeds and are adorned at the top with colorful feathers. Dancers gather the lacy pala‘ā fern and most frequently the palapalai fern, and since post-contact times the hardier laua‘e fern. The forest plants used in hula are symbolic—the palapalai fern is a representation of the hula goddess Laka; pala‘ā is an incarnation of Pele’s sister, Hi‘iaka; and blossoms of ‘a‘ali‘i symbolizes strength. Hula students learn about the ‘āina, and how to respect and care for the ferns and flowers. Plants are conserved for future generations, and never taken by the roots. The dancers give thanks to the source of the plants, the fragrant maile and leaves of kī (ti) and woodland ferns, and ask permission for their use, paying reverence to Laka, the goddess of the forest and hula, as well as other ancient (kahiko) Hawaiian gods. Today many hālau also thank the god of Christianity. I le‘a ka hula i ka ho‘opa‘a. The hula is pleasing because of the drummer. The lesser details that one pays little attention to are just as important as the major ones. Although the attention is given to the dancer, the drummer and chanter play an important role in the dance. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau[128] Sacred Heiau of Wailua Wailua, on Kaua‘i’s east side, was a political and religious center of Kaua‘i in ancient times. It was also home to Hawaiian royalty and chiefs, and the site of numerous heiau (sacred places of worship). An ancient trail along the course of the Wailua River led to six different heiau aligned from the shoreline to the top of the island at Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale. The chiefs traveled up through the groves of native koa, sandalwood, and ‘ōhi‘a lehua trees to finally reach the small plateau atop Wai‘ale‘ale’s summit where a heiau named Ka‘awakō (“The kava drawn along”[129]) was dedicated to the Hawaiian god Kāne, the spirit of the water and the lord of the forests. It is said that Kāne remains there today beneath the clouds of Wai‘ale‘ale. Hauloa (“Dew of life”[130]) is a large heiau located at the mouth of the Wailua River, and is thought to have included a pu‘uhonua, or place of refuge. The religious center at Hauloa was Hikina-a-ka-lā (“Rising of the sun”[131]), located where the sunrise first touches the island on Kaua‘i’s eastern shore each morning. The altar at Hauloa is said to be the site of the first human sacrifice on Kaua‘i.[132] Hikina-a-ka-lā was a stone enclosure about 395 feet long and 63 feet wide. Built an estimated 1,200 years ago, Hikina-a-ka-lā was oriented to Hōkūpa‘a (“Immovable star”[133]), the Polynesians’ name for the North Star. Māla‘e Heiau is located near Hauloa at the mouth of the Wailua River, and is one of Kaua‘i’s oldest heiau and also the largest, encompassing about two acres, with a stone structure measuring 273 by 324 feet. The walls of the heiau were constructed up to ten feet high and thirteen feet thick at the base tapering to eight feet wide at the top. According to legend, Māla‘e Heiau was built about 1,500 years ago by the ancient race of people known as Menehune, and is said to be an example of the Menehune trait of forming a single line of people many miles long to pass rocks from one person to the next. A ledge lined the heiau’s inner wall, providing a place to sit and watch the events occurring within the heiau. Deborah Kapule, Kaua‘i’s last queen as the wife of King Kaumuali‘i used Māla‘e Heiau as a cattle pen after she converted to Christianity. In the late 1800’s and early 1900’s, the rocks of Māla‘e Heiau were taken by the sugar companies for use in construction projects. More recently, volunteers have worked to restore the ancient sacred site. Holoholokū Heiau, named after a kahuna,[134] is located on the north side of the Wailua River, was a luakini where human sacrifices were performed. Holoholokū Heiau is one of Kaua‘i’s oldest heiau, and is relatively small, measuring about 20 by 40 feet. The pōhaku hānau (birthstones) on the western side of the site is where high chiefs were born, including Kaua‘i’s King Kaumuali‘i. A nearby pōhaku (stone) was where the baby’s piko (umbilical cord) was left to ensure the child’s health. Poli‘ahu Heiau is located on the south side of Kuamo‘o Road just up from Holoholokū Heiau, and beneath Kālepa Ridge and the peak of Mauna-kapu (“Sacred mountain”[135]). Considered the sister heiau to Māla‘e Heiau, Poli‘ahu is 242 feet long by 165 feet wide, and the site of ancient religious ceremonies led by a kahuna (high priest). The overthrow of the kapu, or traditional Hawaiian religious system, in 1819 led to the dismantling of Poli‘ahu’s religious structures, which included a three-story ‘anu‘u (wooden oracle tower) as well as a lele (raised altar platform), hale pahu (temple drum house), and a hale umu, where temple fires were maintained and offerings were prepared. In ancient days, the ringing of the nearby pōhaku kani (bellstone) could be heard throughout the valley, signaling that a royal birth had occurred. The bellstone may also have been used to warn of approaching danger, such as invading warriors in canoes. Poli‘ahu’s expansive view of the eastern Kaua‘i’s shoreline includes Māla‘e Heiau, and it is likely that communication took place between the two locations in ancient times. ‘Ōahi—The Fire Throwing Ceremony On Kaua‘i’s north shore, Hawaiian royalty marked special occasions with the ‘ōahi (fire throwing) ceremony, which involved throwing burning logs of native hau and pāpala trees into the seaward winds blowing off the shoreline cliffs of Makana, Mākua and Kāmaile. Carried by the strong winds, the firebrands soared out over the water and showered sparks into the sea to the delight of crowds that arrived in canoes from as far away as Ni‘ihau. People in canoes beneath the cliffs attempted to catch the burning embers and sometimes tattooed themselves with the fiery logs to commemorate the event. The fire-throwing ceremony began in ancient days and was also done during the post-contact period. After visiting Hanalei in 1860, Theo Davies described watching “...several natives climb to the summit of a stupendous and almost perpendicular peak and taking light dry stakes about six feet long, ignite them at both ends, and throw them far out and the wind carries them backwards and forwards until they reach the sea.”[136] ‘Alekoko (Menehune) Fishpond The ‘Alekoko Fishpond, commonly called Menehune Fishpond, is located along a bend in the Hulē‘ia Stream just above Nāwiliwili Harbor. Constructed of earth and faced with stone, the 900-foot levee was built for the purpose of trapping and raising fish. Building the massive ‘Alekoko Fishpond was a remarkable engineering feat that is attributed to the legendary ancient race of Menehune. The huge aquaculture facility is said to have been built in a single moonlit night by a 25-mile-long, double row of Menehune who passed rocks to each other all the way from the Makaweli Quarry in Waimea. According to legend, the chief ‘Alekoko requested that two ponds be constructed—one for him and one for his sister Hāhālua. The Menehune agreed to build the ponds but told ‘Alekoko that no one must look while the work was being completed. When ‘Alekoko could not resist the urge to look out during the night, the Menehune immediately stopped their work and washed their bloody hands in the river, giving the fishpond the name ‘Alekoko, which means“Bloody ripples.”[137] The walls of ‘Alekoko Fishpond are about four feet thick and five feet high. In the 1800’s, two of the three gaps in the levee were filled in by rice farmers. Makaweli means “Fearful features.”[138] Inter and Intra Island Struggles King Kaumuali‘i Born: c.1780. Died: 1824. Parents: Kā‘eokūlani [Kā‘eo] (father) and Kamakahelei (mother). Grandparents: Kekaulikenuiahumanu [Kekaulike] and Holau (parents of Kā‘eokūlani [Kā‘eo]). Sons: Prince George Kaumuali‘i (also known as Humehume); Keali‘iahonui. Grandchildren: Queen Kapi‘olani; Virginia Kapo‘oloku Po‘omaikelani; and Esther Kinoiki Kekaulike (children of Kūhiō and Kinoiki). Great grandchildren: Edward Keali‘ihonui, David Kawānanakoa; and Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana‘ole (children of David Kahalepouli Pi‘ikoi and Kinoiki Kekaulike). Wife: Queen Deborah Kapule (Kekaiha‘akūlou). King Kaumuali‘i and the Invasion Attempts of King Kamehameha I King Kaumuali‘i was Kaua‘i’s last native ruler. Born in 1780 at the sacred royal Birthstone at Holoholokū Heiau in Wailua, Kaumuali‘i was the son of Kā‘eokūlani [Kā‘eo] and Kamakahelei.[139] Kā‘eokūlani first became king of Maui and in the late 1870’s also became the ruler of Kaua‘i, replacing Keawe. Kaumuali‘i’s mother, Kamakahelei, was Kaua‘i’s ruling chiefess and a descendant of O‘ahu ali‘i (high chiefs). She was also said to possess the feared prayer known as Aneekapuahi, and her marriage to Kā‘eokūlani led to his unquestioned rule over Kaua‘i.[140] When English Captain George Vancouver visited Waimea, Kaua‘i in 1792, he met the young Kaumuali‘i, who was twelve years old at the time. Arriving at Waimea Bay on March 9, 1792, Vancouver was impressed by Kaumuali‘i’s friendliness and intelligence. Kaumuali‘i was referred to as King George, after the English sovereign.[141] In the spring of 1793, the young prince Kaumuali‘i again met Vancouver. Kā‘eokūlani [Kā‘eo] left Kaua‘i 1791, leaving as regent a chief named Inamo‘o. In 1794, Kaumuali‘i’s father, Kā‘eokūlani, died in a battle against the forces of Kalanikūpule on O‘ahu. Soon Inamo‘o also died, and Kaumuali‘i became the paramount ruler of Kaua‘i. The warriors of Kaumuali‘i fought against the warriors of the chief Keawe, the half-brother of Kaumuali‘i[142] and the grandson of the powerful O‘ahu chief, Peleiōhōlani.[143] In February of 1796, when William Robert Broughton arrived at Waimea, Kaua‘i on the Providence, Keawe and Kaumuali‘i were still fighting to control Kaua‘i. Keawe had apparently gained control in the Waimea region, and he boarded the Providence, but hurried to shore when he saw the approaching fleet of Kaumuali‘i, who then spent the night aboard the ship. King Kamehameha I launched his first invasion attempt on Kaua‘i in April of 1796, having already conquered the other Hawaiian Islands, and having fought his last major battle at Nu‘uanu on O‘ahu in 1795. Kaua‘i’s opposing factions were extremely vulnerable as they had been weakened by fighting each other. Keawe stated that he intended to join Kamehameha’s forces if attacked. The invasion fleet of King Kamehameha I left O‘ahu at midnight with an estimated 800 or more canoes and more than 8,000 soldiers. About one-fourth of the way across the ocean channel between O‘ahu and Kaua‘i, a storm thwarted Kamehameha’s warriors when many of their canoes were swamped in the rough seas and stormy winds, and then were forced to turn back. Some of the advance troops made it to Kaua‘i and were killed when they reached shore. Kaua‘i remained unconquered. By July of 1796, Keawe finally emerged victorious on Kaua‘i after two years of brutal fighting. Kaumuali‘i was taken captive and then allowed to roam freely on his own lands in Wailua. About one year later Keawe was killed by one of his own men, Ki‘ikīkī, the konohiki (headman) of the ahupua‘a of Wainiha, who had conspired with another man, Kāne‘ekau, to take control of Keawe’s supply of weaponry. After Keawe’s death, Kaumuali‘i seized Ki‘ikīkī’s weapons and became mō‘ī ‘ai moku (paramount ruler, or king) of Kaua‘i. In 1804, King Kamehameha I moved his capital from Lahaina, Maui to Honolulu on O‘ahu, and continued planning an attack on Kaua‘i. Kamehameha’s forces for this second invasion attempt included about 7,000 Hawaiians along with about 50 foreigners (Europeans). Kamehameha’s troops were armed with muskets as well as eight cannons, 40 swivel guns, and other Western weaponry. Kamehameha’s massive fleet of double-hulled canoes was accompanied by 21 armed schooners.[144] Kamehameha’s plans were thwarted again when an epidemic of ma‘i ‘ōku‘u (thought to be cholera) swept through the population, killing thousands of native Hawaiians. The sickness also infected Kamehameha, and many of his warriors died from the disease, including the prominent chief, Ke‘eaumoku Pāpa‘iaheahe. The sickness delayed for a second time Kamehameha’s goal of conquering Kaua‘i. In a renewed effort for a large-scale attack on Kaua‘i, Kamehameha began assembling a formidable armada of sailing ships in Waikīkī, using foreigners to construct the vessels. The invasion never took place, however, because Kaua‘i’s King Kaumuali‘i ceded Kaua‘i to King Kamehameha in 1810 to avoid war. This allowed King Kamehameha I to declare a united Hawaiian Kingdom. “Let us go and drink the water of Wailua, bathe in the water of Nāmolokama, eat the mullet that swim in Kawaimakua at Hā‘ena, wreathe ourselves with the moss of Polihale, then return to O‘ahu and dwell there.” King Kamehameha I, inspiring his warriors before launching an attack on Kaua‘i[145] After King Kamehameha I died in 1819, Kaumuali‘i pledged his allegiance to King Kamehameha II (Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho), who apparently remained distrustful of Kaua‘i’s vassal ruler. In 1821, King Kamehameha II anchored his royal ship Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i (Pride of Hawai‘i) in Waimea Bay, and invited Kaumuali‘i aboard. After boarding the ship, Kaumuali‘i was taken prisoner and the ship sailed for O‘ahu. On O‘ahu, the powerful Ka‘ahumanu, kuhina nui (premier) and former queen, married Kaumuali‘i to ensure the monarchy’s control over Kaua‘i. Kaumuali‘i passed away on O‘ahu in 1824. Kekaiha‘akūlou—Queen Deborah Kapule Around 1817, Kaua‘i’s King Kaumuali‘i married the beautiful chiefess Kekaiha‘akūlou, the daughter of the chiefess Haea and the high chief Hā‘upu. Kekaiha‘akūlou later became known as Queen Deborah Kapule, In 1821, after King Kamehameha II took King Kaumuali‘i to O‘ahu and held him as a prisoner, Ka‘ahumanu married Kaumuali‘i to formally sever his ties to the former queen and any of his claims of leadership on Kaua‘i. Furthering her efforts to eliminate potential threats to her power, Ka‘ahumanu also married Keali‘iahonui, the son of Kaumuali‘i by another wife. Despite the removal of her husband from power by King Kamehameha II, Deborah Kapule was loyal to the Hawaiian monarchy. When the forces of Kaumuali‘i’s son, Humehume, attacked the Waimea fort in 1824, Deborah Kapule arrived with her sword drawn to help fight against the rebels. In 1824, Deborah Kapule married Kaumuali‘i’s half-brother, Simeon Kaiu, who was a devout Christian. Deborah officially became a member of the Christian church in 1825, and was one of the first Kaua‘i natives to learn how to read and write. She also supported a school of 50 students with two teachers. In 1835, Deborah Kapule moved to Wailua with Simeon Kaiu and 16 other church members to found a new church on the current site of the Coco Palms Hotel. Unfortunately, Simeon Kaiu died soon after the move. About one year later Governor Kaikio‘ewa became jealous of the Deborah Kapule’s popularity and ordered her arrested and sent to Honolulu. An appeal to King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) by Reverend William Richards brought Deborah Kapule back to Kaua‘i in 1838. She was later excommunicated from the church due to an affair with Oliver Chapin, a married man, though she was reinstated in the church in the 1840’s. Oliver Chapin and Deborah Kapule lived together in their house at Wailua until the end of the 1840’s. Deborah Kapule’s residence became well known among travelers as a nice place to rest. Fishponds were located nearby, and ferry service was provided across the Wailua River. Close by was Māla‘e Heiau, which Deborah Kapule had converted into a cattle pen. In the 1850’s, Deborah Kapule was personally involved in the construction of the Waimea stone church, providing oxen to haul the large stones and then riding on horseback alongside the procession of rocks. Deborah Kapule, Kaua‘i’s last queen, passed away on August 26, 1853.[146] Humehume—Leader of Kaua‘i’s Last Rebellion Prince George Kaumuali‘i, also known as Humehume, was born about 1797 to King Kaumuali‘i and a commoner wife. As a child, Humehume was sent to the United States for an education, but the money given to the boy’s guardian to pay for his education was either squandered or lost. Humehume eventually enlisted in the U.S. Navy and was wounded during the War of 1812. Humehume later worked in the Boston Navy Yard and then studied at the Foreign Mission School in Cornwall, Connecticut. On May 3, 1820, Humehume returned to Kaua‘i and was reunited with his father after many years apart. Humehume arrived on Kaua‘i aboard the Thaddeus, the same ship that brought the First Company of American missionaries to the Hawaiian Islands. Joyous at his son’s return, King Kaumuali‘i placed Humehume second in command and rewarded the captain of the Thaddeus with a valuable cargo of ‘iliahi (sandalwood), which could be sold for a high price in China. In 1824, after King Kaumuali‘i passed away on O‘ahu, Humehume challenged the rule of King Kamehameha II(Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho) with a surprise attack on the fort at Waimea, Kaua‘i. The fort was successfully defended, and Humehume’s troops retreated to nearby Wahiawa and Hanapēpē. King Kamehameha II was away in England at the time of the attack, leaving kuhina nui (premier) Ka‘ahumanu in charge of the Hawaiian monarchy. In response to Humehume’s rebellion, the well-armed troops of Ka‘ahumanu’s principal counselor, Kalanimoku, marched on Hanapēpē and the Wahiawa plains. Kalanimoku (1768-1827) was also known as Billy Pitt, Kalanimoku was the right hand man, treasurer and principal counselor (kālaimoku) to King Kamehameha I and to later to kuhina nui (premier) Ka‘ahumanu. Kalanimoku was present at the death of Captain Cook, and took the nickname of “Billy Pitt” after William Pitt, the English Prime Minister; guardian of young Liholiho (the future King Kamehameha II). Commanding the warriors putting down the rebellion on Kaua‘i was Maui’s Governor Hoapili. These warriors included about 350 Maui soldiers and up to 1,000 from O‘ahu. On August 18, 1824 the warriors marched from Waimea toward Hanapēpē about two miles up the east side of Hanapēpē Valley. Kalanimoku’s warriors easily defeated Humehume’s meager and ill-prepared forces, who were armed only with spears and relatively few muskets. An estimated 50 to 130 of Humehume’s group were killed, including women and children. It was said that many of the dead were left on the battlefield to be eaten by pigs, and thus the event is known as ‘Aipua‘a (“Pig eater”[147]). Kalanimoku further avenged Humehume’s rebellious attack on the fort by searching out and slaughtering or deporting anyone remotely connected to the failed rebellion, including many Kaua‘i chiefs. Humehume, who had fled on horseback into the mountains with his wife and child, was captured about two weeks after his initial attack on the fort. Ka‘ahumanu arrived on Kaua‘i on August 27, and soon replaced virtually all of Kaua‘i’s chiefs with chiefs from O‘ahu and Maui who were loyal to her and to King Kamehameha II.[148] Kaikio‘ewa, a cousin of King Kamehameha I, was appointed governor of Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau, replacing Governor Kanoa. Even loyal Kaua‘i chiefs were taken from their positions of power, and were replaced by O‘ahu and Maui chiefs, most of whom were relatives of King Kamehameha I. Humehume remained imprisoned on O‘ahu until his death of influenza on May 3, 1826. Prince Jonah Kūhiō—Kaua‘i’s Native Son Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana‘ole Pi‘ikoi Born: March 26, 1871. Died: January 7, 1922, at age of 50. Parents: David Kahalepouli Pi‘ikoi and Princess Esther Kinoiki Kekaulike (sister of Queen Kapi‘olani). Brothers: David Kawānanakoa and Edward Keali‘ihonui. Wife: Elizabeth Kahanu Ka‘auwai. Grandparents: Kūhiō and Kinoiki (parents of Esther Kinoiki Kekaulike). Great grandparents: King Kaumuali‘i and Kekelaokalani (parents of Kinoiki). Prince Kūhiō was born on March 26, 1871 to David Kahelepouli Pi‘ikoi and Princess Esther Kinoiki Kekaulike near Hō‘ai Bay at Kukui‘ula (“Red light”[149]) west of Kōloa, Kaua‘i. Prince Kūhiō was the nephew of Queen Kapi‘olani (sister of Princess Esther Kinoiki Kekaulike), who adopted him, and the great grandson of Kaumuali‘i, the paramount ruler of Kaua‘i who ceded the island to King Kamehameha I in 1810 to avoid war. Prince Kūhiō was born in the Kōloa region of Kaua‘i’s southern coast near Hō‘ai Bay in a grass house at an ancient fishing village called Kukui‘ula (“Red light”[150]). He was the youngest of three boys, all considered ali‘i (royalty) due to their royal descent from Kaua‘i’s paramount ruler (king) Kaumuali‘i. One brother, Edward Keali‘ihonui, died in his teens. Jonah Kūhiō and his other brother David Kawānanakoa were adopted into the childless royal family of King Kalākaua and Queen Kapi‘olani after the boys’ father, David Kahalepouli Pi‘ikoi, died when Kūhiō was ten. Kalaniana‘ole, means “The royal chief without measure,”[151] referring to the prince’s noble heredity, which includes the royal lineage of Kūhiō’s mother, Esther Kinoiki Kekaulike, who was appointed governor of Hawai‘i Island by King Kalākaua. When Kūhiō was 13 years old, King Kalākaua declared Jonah and his brother David princes by royal decree with the intent that they would carry on the Kalākaua dynasty. King Kalākaua and Queen Kapi‘olani held an official coronation on February 12, 1883 at ‘Iolani Palace, and the jeweled royal crowns were carried by Prince Kūhiō and his brother DavidKawānanakoa. Due to his cherubic and handsome looks, Prince Kūhiō was sometimes referred to as Prince Cupid, a name given to him in his youth by his French teacher. Prince Kūhiō attended the Royal School and Punahou School on O‘ahu, and then attended St. Matthew’s College in California before enrolling in the Royal Agricultural College in Cirencester, England. He then graduated from an English business school. Prince Kūhiō was a master of the traditional Hawaiian art of lua (ancient Hawaiian form of martial arts). He also competed on school teams in the sports of football and track. In 1884, Kūhiō was appointed to the Cabinet of the Hawaiian Kingdom by Kalākau to administer the Department of the Interior. With the support of King Kalākaua, Prince Kūhiō studied Japanese culture and government for one year inJapan. The king hoped the Prince would find a royal Japanese bride and form a marital alliance between the Hawaiian Islands and Japan. Prince Kūhiō was named as presumptive heir to the throne by Queen Lili‘uokalani after she ascended to the throne in 1891, making Kūhiō the last royally-designated heir. After he returned to the Hawaiian Islands just before the Hawaiian monarchy was overthrown in 1893, Prince Kūhiō worked to restore Queen Lili‘uokalani to the throne. In 1895 at the age of 24, Prince Kūhiō participated in a royalist uprising (a counter-revolution) against the Republicof Hawai‘i, and was arrested by the Provisional Government, charged with treason, and imprisoned for one year. After his release from prison, Prince Kūhiō married Elizabeth Kahanu Ka‘auwai, a full-blooded Hawaiian chiefess who was the daughter of a Maui chief, and they took a trip to Africa. Disheartened by the events in the Hawaiian Islands, Prince Kūhiō joined the British Army in South Africa in the Boer War. Prince Kūhiō was next in line to ascend to the throne after Princess Ka‘iulani passed away in 1899, but the restoration of the monarchy became more unlikely with each passing year. Prince Kūhiō and his wife returned to the Hawaiian Islands in 1901. He helped organize the Republican Party in 1902 and that same year he was elected as the Territory of Hawai‘i’s second, non-voting delegate to the United States Congress (after Robert Wilcox), serving in the position for a total of 20 years (ten, two-year terms) until he died in 1922. Prince Kūhiō helped to found the Order of Kamehameha in 1903 and the Hawaiian Civic Club of Honolulu in 1918. The Civic Club’s tradition of community involvement continues today. Due to his political efforts to help Hawaiians and promote self-sufficiency among the native population, Prince Kūhiō was known as Ke Ali‘i Maka‘āinana, which means “Chief of the Commoners,” “Citizen Prince,” or “Prince of the People.” Throughout his life, Prince Kūhiō worked to preserve the traditions and culture of native Hawaiians. One of Prince Kūhiō’s legacies was his inspired involvement in the passing of the Hawaiian Homestead Commission Act, which was enacted on July 9, 1921 to provide low-cost homestead and farming land to Hawaiians with at least 50% native Hawaiian ancestry based on blood quantum. A total of 203,500 acres (82,354 ha) was designated as “available lands” for the program, but the sugar companies had lobbied to exclude all areas that were not used for sugar, which included most of the best agricultural land in the Hawaiian Islands. No money was available to develop the second-tier parcels and thus most of the lands were not used. During the first 70 years after the passage of Hawaiian Homestead Commission Act of 1920, just 3,000 families received lands and many people who were on the original list of applications passed away before receiving land. Of his political efforts, Prince Kūhiō stated, “The legislation proposed seeks to place the Hawaiian back on the soil, so that the valuable and sturdy traits of that race, peculiarly adapted to the islands, shall be preserved to posterity.”[152] Prince Kūhiō’s home was called Pualeilani, which means “Flower from the wreath of heaven.” The home was located across Kalākaua Avenue from Kūhiō Beach Park. Prince Kūhiō passed away due to heart disease on January 7, 1922 at the age of 50. He was given the last state funeral held for a Hawaiian ali‘i (royalty), and was laid to rest at the Royal Mausoleum in O‘ahu’s Nu‘uanu Valley. Prince Kūhiō Park is located near the Prince Kūhiō’s birthplace on Kaua‘i’s southern shore west of Kōloa. The park features a pond and terraced stone walls, Hō‘ai Heiau, and a statue of the prince that was unveiled on June 17, 1928 with about 10,000 people in attendance. Prince Kūhiō’s life is celebrated with an annual state holiday each year on Prince Kūhiō Day, the prince’s birthday, March 26. Prince Kūhiō Day is traditionally a day of canoe races and other local events, including a ceremony at PrinceKūhiō Park on Kaua‘i. Kūhiō Beach Park in Waikīkī is named after Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana‘ole Pi‘ikoi, whose home fronting the beach was torn down in 1936. (See Kūhiō Beach Park; and Statue of Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana‘ole in O‘ahu section, Chapter 2;Prince Kūhiō Park/Hō‘ai Heiau in Kaua‘i section, Chapter 2; and Chapter 11: Timeline: 1871, March 26 forBiographical Sketchof Prince Kūhiō.) Queen Emma Born: 1836. Died: April 25, 1885. Parents: George Na‘ea and Fanny Kekelaokalani Young. Husband: Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani (King Kamehameha IV). Grandparents: John Young (‘Olohana) and Ka‘o‘ana‘eha (parents of Fanny Kekelaokalani Young). Great grandparents: Keli‘imaika‘i (brother of King Kamehameha I) and Kaliko‘okalani (parents of Ka‘o‘ana‘eha). Great great grandparents: Keōuakupuapāikalaninui [Keōuanui] and Keku‘iapoiwa II (parents of Keli‘imaika‘i). Queen Emma’s Journey to the Alaka‘i Emma Na‘ea, the future Queen Emma, was given the name Kalanikaumakeamano at birth. She was adopted by Dr. Thomas Charles Byde Rooke, and his wife, Grace Kamaikui Young Rooke, Emma’s maternal aunt. Dr. Rooke belonged to the Church of England. Emma was the great-granddaughter of the brother of King Kamehameha I. In 1856, Emma became Hawai‘i’s queen as the wife of King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani). The royal newlyweds visited Kaua‘i in 1856 as part of a “Royal Progress” through the Hawaiian Islands. On May 20, 1858, they gave birth to Prince Albert Edward Kauikeaouli Leiopapa o Kamehameha, a godchild of England’s Queen Victoria. King Kamehameha IV and Queen Emma returned to Kaua‘i in 1860, this time with two-year-old Prince Albert.[153] Tragically, Prince Albert passed away in 1862 at the tender age of four. His father, King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani), passed away in 1863 at the age of 29. Queen Emma returned to Kaua‘i in 1870 and journeyed up to the highland forests of the Alaka‘i Swamp and Kōke‘e. Accompanying the queen was her sizable retinue including hula dancers and musicians, all guided by an elderly Hawaiian named Kaluahi. The group rested while music and hula dancing entertained Queen Emma, who also recited chants.[154] The horses were then left behind as the group descended on foot into the valley toward the Alaka‘i. The first night was spent at Waineki (“Bulrush water”[155]) in the Aiponui forest where a platform for Queen Emma was made using branches of ‘ōhi‘a lehua.[156] The royal party eventually reached the end of the trail where the overlook called Kilohana (“Lookout point”[157]) provided spectacular views of Wainiha Valley and Kaua‘i’s north shore. In honor of the mountain journey the queen’s Lāwa‘i estate was renamed Mauna Kilohana. After Queen Emma returned from her mountain journey, she was the guest of honor at a large lū‘au (Hawaiian feast) in Waimea. The lū‘au took place on January 29, 1871 at the Kapuniai residence of Kaikio‘ewa, the former governor of Kaua‘i.[158] The house was built in 1830 above the old Waimea dispensary, and today serves as the home of the pastor of the Waimea United Church of Christ. During the queen’s 1870 visit to Kaua‘i, she stayed at her 4,200-acre Lāwa‘i estate, which had been deeded to her by her aunt, Hikoni. Mauna Kilohana encompassed the entire ahupua‘a (natural watershed land division) of Lāwa‘i. Queen Emma’s large frame house at Mauna Kilohana was built in 1869. The thatched roof home was situated on a hill on the Kōloa side of the valley overlooking Lāwa‘i Bay. Accompanied by George Norton Wilcox and William O. Smith, Queen Emma rode on horseback to an area upland of her estate to plan an irrigation ditch. George Norton Wilcox was the son of Wai‘oli missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox, and William O. Smith was the son of missionary doctor Dr. James Smith. At Mauna Kilohana, they surveyed a water source and planned the ditch to the queen’s estate. Two men were hired to construct the two-mile-long ditch, which began functioning on March 11, 1871. Queen Emma then personally assisted in the planting of numerous native and Polynesian-introduced species such as kalo (taro), kī (ti), kō (sugarcane), pia (Polynesian arrowroot), hala, ‘ōhi‘a lehua, and hau along with many non-native other species, including rose apple, bamboo, mango, and bougainvillea. After King Lunalilo passed away on February 3, 1874, Queen Emma put forth her claim to the throne of the Hawaiian kingdom, but David La‘amea Kalākaua was elected king. When the results were announced the Honolulu courthouse was attacked and ransacked and legislators were beaten. One delegate was thrown out of a window. The violence left many injured and one dead, and armed marines from American and British warships restored order. The Lāwa‘i estate, Mauna Kilohana, was later leased by Queen Emma to Duncan McBryde, a Scot, who was also the district court judge. Western Contact—Explorers, Russians, and Whalers The Arrival of Captain Cook—First Landfall at Waimea British explorer Captain James Cook first sighted the Hawaiian Islands in the dawn hours of January 18, 1778. Cook’s two ships, the HMS Resolution and the HMS Discovery, were kept at bay by the weather until the next day when they approached Kaua‘i’s southeast coast. On the afternoon of January 19, native Hawaiians in canoes paddled out to meet Cook’s ships, and so began Hawai‘i’s contact with Westerners. This first encounter with the Hawaiians took place in the waters near Kīpū Kai. The Hawaiians traded fish and sweet potatoes for pieces of iron and brass that were lowered down from Cook’s ships to the Hawaiians’ canoes. Cook then sailed along Kaua‘i’s southeastern coast searching for a suitable anchorage. His two ships remained offshore, but a few Hawaiians were allowed to come on board on the morning of January 20, before Cook continued on in search of a safe harbor. On the afternoon of January 20, 1778, Cook anchored his ships near the mouth of the Waimea River on Kaua‘i’s southwestern shore. On January 20 at Waimea Bay, Cook went ashore with 12 armed marines. As they stepped ashore for the first time, Cook and his men were greeted by hundreds of Hawaiians who offered gifts of pua‘a (pigs), and mai‘a (bananas) and kapa (tapa) barkcloth. Cook went ashore at Waimea three times the next day, walking inland to view Hawaiian hale (houses), heiau (sacred places of worship), and agricultural sites. At the time, Waimea was a thriving village with many thatched homes as well as lo‘i kalo (taro patches) and various other food crops such as niu (coconuts) and ‘ulu (breadfruit). Cook’s crew traded iron and other items to the natives in return for food products including moa (chickens) as well as corms of kalo (taro). Cook’s men estimated Kaua‘i’s population to be about 30,000, with a total of about 300,000 people living throughout the Hawaiian Islands. Cook named the archipelago the Sandwich Islands in honor of his patron, the First Lord of the Admiralty, the Earl of Sandwich. After leaving Kaua‘i, Cook sailed north in search of the “Northwest Passage,” an elusive (because it was non-existent) route from the Pacific Ocean to the Atlantic Ocean. On January 17, 1779, Cook returned to the Hawaiian Islands, sailing into Kealakekua Bay on the island of Hawai‘i. Less than one month later, on February 14, 1779, Cook and several of his men were killed in an encounter with the natives on the shoreline of Kealakekua Bay. Ships Visiting Kaua‘i in the 1700’s After Captain Cook established Western contact with the Hawaiian Islands in 1778, the next foreign ships to come to Kaua‘i were the Queen Charlotte under the command of Captain George Dixon, and the King George under the command of Nathaniel Portlock. Both the Queen Charlotte and the King George were sponsored by the King George Sound Company, which had gained exclusive trading rights on America’s Northwest Coast in an attempt to avoid conflict with the East India Company and the South Sea Company. The two ships were on their way from America’s Northwest Coast to China when they arrived at Waimea Bay in 1786. George Dixon had been an armorer on the Discovery under Captain Cook, and Nathaniel Portlock had also sailed with Cook. In 1779, the Grace arrived under the command of Captain William Douglas, who left two of his crew on Kaua‘i to search for sandalwood and left one deserting crew member behind on Ni‘ihau. In 1791, Captain John Kendrick on theLady Washington left three men on Ni‘ihau, instructing them to travel to Kaua‘i and search for sandalwood and pearls. Other men from Western ships also remained on Kaua‘i, and some of these Westerners became part of the entourage of Island chiefs.[159] Captain George Vancouver arrived at Waimea Bay on March 9, 1792 in command of the Chatham and theDiscovery (not the same ship that Cook sailed). Vancouver had served under Captain Cook on Cook’s second Pacific voyage, and was Cook’s midshipman on his third voyage when Cook first found the Hawaiian Islands. Vancouver returned in 1793 and 1794, bringing sheep, cattle, goats, and geese to the Hawaiian Islands along with a variety of seeds and plants. When William Robert Broughton arrived at Waimea Bay on the Providence in 1796, the future King Kaumuali‘i stayed on board overnight. Russian Forts on Kaua‘i In 1806, Kaua‘i’s King Kaumuali‘i offered to supply food to the Russians in exchange for pelts. The Aleutian Islands and Alaska provided the Russians with a profitable commerce during the second half of the eighteenth century, and the Hawaiian Islands provided a convenient stopping point for ships going to or from China, where the furs were sold. The first ships of the Russian-American Company to come to Kaua‘i were the Nadezhda and Neva arriving in 1804. In 1815 the 210-ton, three-masted Russian ship Behring arrived under the command of Captain James Bennett. TheBehring was carrying sealskins (otter pelts) bound for the Russian-American Company’s headquarters at Sitka, Alaska, the capital of Russian-America. After the Behring anchored at Waimea Bay and the captain went ashore, an unexpected southwest wind rapidly intensified and pushed the Behring broadside onto the shore. An estimated 2,000 Kauaians attempted unsuccessfully to save the vessel. King Kaumuali‘i had the valuable pelts on board the ship taken to his home near Makaweli. The loss of the ship’s cargo caused the Russian-American Company to send Georg Anton Schäffer to Hawai‘i to retrieve the cargo or seek appropriate payment. After falling into disfavor on Hawai‘i and O‘ahu, Schäffer sailed to Kaua‘i. King Kaumuali‘i had ceded Kaua‘i to King Kamehameha I in 1810 to avoid war. As Kaua‘i’s vassal ruler, Kaumuali‘i conspired with Schäffer to reclaim the island from King Kamehameha. Kaumuali‘i also wanted to launch expeditions against other Hawaiian Islands that he felt he had a hereditary right to rule, including O‘ahu, Moloka‘i, Lāna‘i, and Maui. Kaumuali‘i signed an agreement with Schäffer that put Kaua‘i under the protection of the Russian Empire, and promised Schäffer land in the islands that were to be conquered, including half of O‘ahu. Schäffer would also get rights to all of the valuable sandalwood growing on O‘ahu. Ships, ammunition, and men would be supplied by Schäffer, and Kaumuali‘i would supply 500 men as well as food and provisions for the forces. Kaumuali‘i also gave Schäffer Hanalei Valley in exchange for the ship Lydia. Schäffer began construction of a fort at the mouth of the Waimea River, and named it Fort Elizabeth, in honor of Empress Elizabeth (1779-1826), the consort of the Russian Emperor.[160] A significant portion of Fort Elizabeth was completed by November of 1816, including the walls facing Waimea River and the ocean.[161] A Russian flag was raised over the fort and 38 cannons stood pointed at Waimea Bay to protect trading vessels arriving at the important anchorage. Fort Elizabeth stood up to 20 feet high and up to 17 feet wide at the base, with a total wall length of more than 1,200 feet. Things changed quickly for Schäffer when Russian Lieutenant Otto von Kotzebue arrived in Hawai‘i on November 21, 1816, aboard the Russian Navy brig Rurik. Kotzebue repudiated the activities of Schäffer and informed King Kamehameha I that Schäffer did not have the support of the Russian Emperor. In May of 1817, Kaumuali‘i was misled to believe that Russia and America were at war. This was part of a plot by Americans in Hawai‘i who wanted to make Kaumuali‘i fearful of his association with Schäffer, which could put Kaumuali‘i in a precarious position as an enemy of America. The plan against Schäffer worked perfectly, and Kaumuali‘i promptly renounced his previous agreement with Schäffer, who was then run out of Waimea. Schäffer soon left for O‘ahu on the Kodiak, which was leaking badly. The ship took about five days to reach Honolulu, barely making the voyage as the crew continuously pumped out water. After reaching O‘ahu, Schäffer was told not to come ashore unless he wanted to be taken prisoner. Fortunately for Schäffer, Captain Isaiah Lewis on the American vessel Panther happened to sail into port. Lewis had been treated medically by Schäffer just one year earlier, and provided Schäffer safe passage from Hawai‘i. Schäffer later emigrated to Brazil where he purchased a title for himself, assuming the title of Count von Frankenthal. The remains of Fort Elizabeth at the mouth of the Waimea river include sections of the lava rock walls up to ten feet tall as well as informational displays. The Whaling Era The Nantucket whaling ship Maro came to the Hawaiian Islands in 1820 under the command of Joseph Allen, who later discovered rich whaling waters off Japan. Soon hundreds of whaling ships were headed for the area to exploit the bountiful sperm whale (Physeter macrocephalus) resource, and the Hawaiian Islands became a major staging area, centrally located between the American west coast and Japan. The first whaling ship to visit Kōloa arrived in 1826, and Kōloa increasingly became a major port for Yankee whalers as well as interisland steamers. In the 1830’s, up to 60 whaling ships visited Kōloa each year, making it the third busiest port in the Islands after Honolulu and Lahaina. Some products that were not available at other ports were available in Kōloa, sometimes at lower prices. Whaling in the Pacific Ocean continued strongly for the next few decades, with more than 500 whaling ships visiting Hawaiian ports in 1859. That same year, oil was discovered in Pennsylvania and soon became a new source of lubricants for industry. This was the beginning of the end of the whaling era. Missionaries and Churches Kaua‘i’s Missionaries The First Company of American missionaries sailed from Boston on August 23, 1819 on the 85-foot brigThaddeus, under the command of Andrew Blanchard. The Thaddeus arrived at Kailua-Kona on the island of Hawai‘i on March 31, 1820, and the missionaries began their congregational mission work in the Hawaiian Islands, then known as the Sandwich Islands. On board the Thaddeus were missionaries Samuel and Nancy Ruggles as well as Samuel Whitney and his wifeMercy Partridge Whitney. Samuel Ruggles and Samuel Whitney continued on to Kaua‘i aboard the Thaddeus to reunite Humehume (Prince George Kaumuali‘i) with his father, King Kaumuali‘i. The Thaddeus arrived on Kaua‘i on May 3, 1820. Kaumuali‘i was exultant at the return of his son, and rewarded the missionaries by giving them land a residence. The Ruggles and the Whitneys soon moved to Waimea and founded Kaua‘i’s first mission station. Samuel and Mercy Whitney remained on Kaua‘i for many years. By April of 1821 they had built a large, Western-style wooden house near the Waimea River, where they ran a school and held church services. Samuel frequently traveled around the island preaching and helping to establish other mission stations. Dr. Thomas Holman was Kaua‘i’s first medical doctor, spending four months on Kaua‘i in 1821 with his wife Lucia, the brother of missionary Samuel Ruggles. Lucia Holman delivered babies for both the Ruggles and the Whitneys. Dr. Holman was later excommunicated from the church due to grievances brought against him by Reverend Hiram Bingham. The Holmans left the Hawaiian Islands on October 10, 1821, sailing back to Boston. At the end of 1822, the Ruggles started a school in Hanapēpē. About six months later they left for Hilo and soon returned to the United States. Samuel Whitney produced Kaua‘i’s first refined sugar at a small mill he staffed with local Chinese immigrants. The Whitneys also saw to the construction of a large thatched church on the Waimea River’s western bank. Hiram Bingham visited Kaua‘i in 1824, drawing sketches of the region and writing a memorable account of the attempt to save the royal yacht Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i after it became shipwrecked in Hanalei Bay. In 1829, Reverend Peter Gulick came to Kaua‘i to assist Samuel Whitney at Waimea. Gulick also traveled to Hanalei where he preached to about 1,200 native Hawaiians. William Patterson Alexander arrived on Kaua‘i in 1834 and established a mission station at Wai‘oli to serve the Hanalei region. Kaua‘i’s first physician was Dr. Thomas Lafon (1801-1876), who earned his medical degree from Transylvania University in 1827 and was ordained at Marion College, Missouri in 1835. Lafon and his wife, Sophia Louisa Lafon, arrived in the Hawaiian Islands with the Eighth Company of American missionaries in 1837 and were initially assigned to the Kōloa mission, where Thomas served as a minister and teacher. When Dr. Lafon first landed at Kōloa, his medicinal supplies were accidentally dropped into the water, and Reverend Peter Gulick had the supplies unpacked and dried. In 1839, Lafon was assigned to minister to the large, thatched church built in Līhu‘e by Governor Kakio‘ewa at the current site of the Līhu‘e Post Office and Bank of Hawai‘i. The church had 52 members. In 1841, Lafon resigned from the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions in protest over their continued acceptance of money from slaveholders. Lafon also served as the doctor for the Ladd & Company sugar plantation, which employed about 100 Hawaiians. Medical missionary Dr. James Smith was stationed at Kōloa but served the whole island, being the only doctor on Kaua‘i for much of the 1840’s and 1850’s. Dr. Smith was known for his tireless efforts to come to the aid of those in need. (See Princeville section.) When a smallpox epidemic was killing thousands of people on the other Hawaiian Islands, Dr. Smith vaccinated virtually every person on Kaua‘i. Reverend George B. Rowell arrived at the Wai‘oli mission station in 1843 with his wife Malvina Rowell after arriving in Honolulu in 1842 on the Sarah Abigail with the Tenth Company of American missionaries. George Rowell was born in New Hampshire, and had previously graduated from Amherst College and Andover Theological Seminary. Rowell became the minister at Wai‘oli, taking over the duties of Reverend William Patterson Alexander. Rowell was then reassigned to Waimea and moved in to the former home of Reverend Peter Gulick. Rowell was expelled from the church by the American Board of Commissions for Foreign Missions, but soon opened a new Protestant church in Waimea called the Independent, or Makai Church. Rowell, who spoke fluent Hawaiian, served for 41 years on Kaua‘i, passing away on June 15, 1884. When Abner and Lucy Wilcox along with their four sons sailed into Hanalei Bay in 1846 to work at the Wai‘oli mission station, the Rowells were transferred to the Waimea mission station. The Wilcoxes then served at Wai‘oli for the next 23 years, giving birth to four more boys. Edward Johnson served as minister at Wai‘oli after being ordained a preacher in 1848, and his wife Lois Johnson was also a teacher at Wai‘oli. The Johnson home was later moved and became the Hanalei Hotel.[162] Gulick-Rowell House Reverend Peter J. Gulick arrived in Hawai‘i with his wife and infant son in 1828. Though native Hawaiians had built Gulick a thatched home, he desired a drier structure, and so he began construction of a new house in Waimea in 1828, using quarried limestone, which was brought to the site by a team of oxen that had been caught in the mountains and harnessed for use as draft animals. Gulick paid his workers with bibles, textbooks, and goats. Reverend Gulick was transferred to Kōloa in 1835, and his Waimea home was completed by Reverend George Rowell in 1846 after Rowell was transferred from the Wai‘oli mission in Hanalei to the Waimea mission. Rowell increased the size of the home’s second story, extending it to cover the whole house. George and Malvina Rowell’s youngest daughter, Adelaide, was born in the house in 1853. Rowell constructed a barn nearby to the home, and his wife used the structure to teach classes to Hawaiian women. George Rowell was buried on the property after he passed away on June 1, 1884. Today the Gulick-Rowell home remains standing, and is Hawai‘i’s oldest continuously occupied house. It is also a classic example of the New England style architecture that missionaries introduced to the Hawaiian Islands. The Gulick-Rowell home is a private residence, and tours are not available. Original features in the home today include the large brick fireplace and the wood rafters and beams that are made from the now rare kauwila wood. The Wai‘oli Mission Station On July 15, 1834, Reverend William Patterson Alexander and his wife Mary Ann, along with their young son William DeWitt, arrived at Waimea Bay on Kaua‘i’s southwest shore. Five weeks later the Alexanders sailed to Kaua‘i’s north shore in Governor Kaikio‘ewa’s double-hulled canoe. Leaving at night, they sailed along the Nāpali coast and arrived the next morning at the mouth of Wai‘oli Stream in Hanalei Bay. The Alexanders were the first “outsiders” to settle on Kaua‘i’s north shore, establishing a mission station at Waioli. Native Hawaiians at Wai‘oli had built a grass-thatched dwelling in anticipation of the arrival of the missionaries, and it became the Alexanders’ family’s home. Kaua‘i’s Governor Kaikio‘ewa donated land at Wai‘oli for a school and church, and in April of 1835 Reverend Alexander oversaw the construction of a new pole-and-thatch meetinghouse to replace an earlier native-built structure that burned down just a few months before the Alexanders arrived. The new church meetinghouse was an open-sided building measuring about 90 feet by 40 feet and thatched with lau hala (leaves of the native hala tree).[163] Missionary Samuel Whitney of the Waimea mission station attended the dedication.[164] In April of 1837, a Western-style, two-story, four-room mission house was completed at Wai‘oli was finished using native ‘ōhi‘a lehua timber from the nearby mountains. In 1841, the new Wai‘oli Church was completed, also built in the Western style, and timber-framed using logs of ‘ōhi‘a lehua. Coral from the ocean nearby provided lime for the masonry, and the church was plastered on the inside and outside.[165] The building’s hipped, split-pitch roof (thatched with lau hala), and four-sided lānai made the structure a blend of Hawaiian traditions and American architecture.[166] In the tradition of English and colonial American missionary churches, a separate church belfry was also built, and a church bell arrived from Boston in 1843. Also arriving in 1843 were Reverend George B. Rowell and his wife Malvina. George Rowell took over ministerial duties from Reverend Alexander, serving at Wai‘oli until 1846 when Abner and Lucy Wilcox and their four young sons arrived to teach at the mission station. The Wilcoxes moved into the Wai‘oli mission house and the Rowells were transferred to Waimea, Kaua‘i. For the next 23 years, Abner and Lucy Wilcox and their growing family lived in the Wai‘oli mission house. Abner Wilcox taught at the Wai‘oli Select School for Hawaiian boys, which sought the brightest and most promising students of the various schools on Ni‘ihau and Kaua‘i. The finest of these students were sent to Maui’s Lahainaluna Seminary, which had been established in 1831 as Hawai‘i’s first English school. The spired green Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church, located just mauka (on the mountain side) of the main road in Hanalei, was built in 1912 by Sam, George, and Albert Wilcox in honor of their parents, Abner and Lucy Wilcox. Designed in the American Gothic style, the 1912 church is notable for its beautiful stained glass windows as well as its bell tower, which now holds the bell that was in the old Wai‘oli Belfry, which still stands just behind the church, along with the old Wai‘oli Church. Behind the trees is the original Wai‘oli Mission House, completed in 1837. In 1921, an extensive restoration of the Wai‘oli Mission House and the old Wai‘oli Church was undertaken by Elsie and Mabel Wilcox and Lucy Etta Wilcox Sloggett, the grandchildren of Wai‘oli missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox. Prominent Honolulu architect Hart Wood[167] was chosen to oversee the restoration project. Wood’s plan encompassed the whole of the 20-acre site, including draining and leveling the adjacent area to create Wai‘oli Park. In 1973, the 1837 mission house and 1841 Wai‘oli Church were placed on the National Register of Historic Places along with the 1912 Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church. When Hurricane ‘Iniki[168] struck Kaua‘i on September 11, 1992 it caused extensive structural damage to Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church, lifting the church off its foundations and damaging the church’s precious stained glass windows. After an extensive restoration, dedication ceremonies took place in April of 1994. The Congregational hymns that are still sung by the Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church Choir in the Hawaiian language were originally translated by the early missionaries. The Wilcox Legacy The descendants of pioneering Wai‘oli missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox were significant in the history of Kaua‘i. Following is a summary of some of their major accomplishments. Albert Spencer Wilcox (1844-1819), the fourth son of Wai‘oli missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox, was a member of the House of Representatives of the Hawaiian Kingdom from 1891 to 1892, and settled a stock ranch at Kilohana in Līhu‘e in 1898. Albert also helped to found the Samuel Mahelona Hospital in Kapa‘a in memory of his stepson, and helped establish the Kauikeōlani Children’s Hospital in Honolulu. George Norton Wilcox (1839-1933), the second son of Wai‘oli missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox, developed Grove Farm into a major Kaua‘i sugarcane plantation. George was a member of every Hawaiian legislative body from 1888 until 1898, and was prime minister of the cabinet of King Kalākaua in 1892. Samuel Whitney Wilcox (1847-1929), the fifth son of Wai‘oli missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox, became Sheriff of Kaua‘i in 1872, and served in that capacity for 25 years. He was also a member of the House of Representatives in 1901-1902 and a Senator from 1903 to 1907. Samuel had six children with Emma Washburn Lyman. In 1912, Sam, George, and Albert Wilcox built Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church in honor of their father. Mabel Isabel Wilcox (1882-1976), the sixth child of Samuel and Emma Wilcox, was selected by the Territorial Board of Health as Kaua‘i’s first public health nurse in 1913 and helped establish the Samuel Mahelona Hospital in 1917. That same year, Mabel volunteered for duty in World War I and served for 18 months in Belgium and France. Mabel and her sister Elsie helped to found Kaua‘i’s Wilcox Hospital with funding provided by the trust of their uncle, George Norton Wilcox. Elsie Hart Wilcox (1879-1954), the daughter of Samuel and Emma Wilcox, was Chairman of the Kaua‘i Board of Child Welfare and Commissioner of Education for twelve years. She resigned to take a post as the first woman Senator in the Territorial Legislature and served in that capacity for eight years. Sugar Early Days Kōloa Hawai‘i’s commercial sugar industry began on Kaua‘i’s south side in Kōloa in 1835 when partners William Ladd, William Hooper, and Peter Brinsmade organized as Ladd & Co. They began the sugarcane plantation on land originally leased from King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) for $300/year. William Hooper was the manager of Kōloa Plantation, and the initial planting consisted of 25 acres of sugarcane and coffee. The Kōloa Plantation used techniques first developed in China to grind and process their sugarcane. The plantation also invented new methods of grinding, harvesting, and milling sugarcane, serving as the model for sugar plantations throughout the Hawaiian Islands. Hawaiians inhabited the Kōloa region long before Western contact in 1778, but the town grew rapidly after the sugarcane plantation began operations. A Congregational mission was also established in 1835. Kōloa soon became a thriving plantation town as well as one of Kaua‘i’s main commercial centers, including a bustling port. After World War II, Kōloa’s population and business climate declined. Kōloa Plantation survived under various owners until McBryde Sugar Company shut the plantation down in 1996. Still visible at the entrance to Kōloa town are the remnants of the 1841 chimney of the third Kōloa Mill Immigration When Hawai‘i’s legislature passed the Masters and Servants Act in 1850, it established a contract labor system that began the mass importation of laborers to work on the sugar plantations. The following decades saw increasing numbers of immigrant laborers arriving in the Hawaiian Islands from China, Japan, Portugal, the Philippines, Puerto Rico, Korea, Germany, Norway, and other countries. Plantation owners eventually became extremely powerful, and living conditions on many plantations became exceedingly harsh for many workers. Strikes and protests began in the early 1900’s as labor unrest grew. A tragic event of Hawai‘i’s history occurred in 1926 when 16 Filipino sugar plantation workers and four police officers in Hanapēpē were killed during a brutal suppression of the strike. Plantations and Mills Līhu‘e Sugar Plantation Līhu‘e Plantation was established in 1849 eventually becoming Kaua‘i’s costliest and most modern sugarcane enterprise. In 1853, the plantation’s sugar mill became the first steam-operated sugar mill in the Hawaiian Islands. A ten-mile long ditch completed in 1856 under the direction of William Harrison Rice was a pioneering irrigation project. Kīlauea Sugar Plantation The Kīlauea Sugar Plantation began growing sugarcane in 1877 and produced its first crystallized sugar in 1880, the same year the company was incorporated. About 3,000 acres were irrigated by a system of ditches and reservoirs. C. Brewer & Co. purchased the plantation in 1910. Sugarcane operations shut down in 1969, and the Kīlauea Sugar Plantation closed in 1971. Grove Farm Sugar Plantation Grove Farm was built into a major sugarcane plantation by George Norton Wilcox, the second son of Wai‘oli missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox who served on Kaua‘i’s north shore from 1846 to 1869. George Norton Wilcox grew up at Wai‘oli and then studied at Yale College’s Sheffield Scientific School where he earned an engineering degree. In 1870, George purchased Grove Farm from Judge Herman Widemann. In 1881, Widemann added another 10,500 acres to Grove Farm by purchasing land from Princess Ruth Ke‘elikōlani. George used his engineering skills to direct the construction of extensive irrigation ditches that made Grove Farm one of the most productive plantations in the Hawaiian Islands at the time. The original home of George Norton Wilcox at Grove Farm, just south of Līhu‘e and north of Nāwiliwili Harbor, was built in 1864, and was a relatively sparse cottage. A two-story main house was later built by George for the family of his brother Samuel. It was later home to Mabel Wilcox, the niece of George, who established the museum at Grove Farm in the 1970’s. In 1948, Gaylord Wilcox, the heir of Grove Farm, bought Kōloa Plantation, increasing Grove Farm’s landholdings to more than 22,000 acres. The Grove Farm Corporation shut down its sugarcane operations in 1974, and McBryde Sugar Company bought most of Grove Farm’s land along with the Kōloa Mill and Factory. Today the restored plantation home estate at Grove Farm features period furniture, Hawaiian quilts, a koa staircase, and floors made from wood of the native ‘ōhi‘a lehua tree. McBryde Sugar Plantation The McBryde Estate was founded in 1829 by Walter Duncan McBryde and W. A. Kinney. In 1899, Benjamin Franklin Dillingham merged the McBryde Estate (which then included the Wahiawa Ranch and Kōloa Agricultural Company), with the ‘Ele‘ele Plantation, forming the McBryde Sugar Plantation. Coal-burning steam pumps became increasingly expensive for the McBryde company, leading to their construction of two power plants. The first was the Wainiha hydroelectric power plant, built in 1906, becoming the first significant hydroelectric plant in the Hawaiian Islands, and still Hawai‘i’s best producing hydroelectric plant. In the first decade of the 1900’s McBryde built dozens of reservoirs, including the Alexander Dam, one of the world’s tallest hydraulic fill earth dams with a capacity of more than 800 million gallons. Measuring 640 feet thick at the base and 120 feet high, and 620 feet long at its crest, Alexander Dam cost $2.2 million to build and became the second highest earthen dam in the Hawaiian Islands. As the dam neared construction on March 26, 1930, torrential rains broke the dam and caused a mudslide that killed six people. The structure was eventually rebuilt, finally opening in December of 1932. In 1974, the McBryde Company purchased Grove Farm’s Kōloa Mill and Factory along with most of Grove Farm’s sugarcane land. In 1996 the last sugarcane was processed, and coffee trees now cover much of the land. The parent company of both Kaua‘i Coffee Company and McBryde Sugar Plantation is Alexander and Baldwin, Inc. e Alexander Dam in Kalaheo was the site of the McBryde Plantation’s second hydroelectric plant, which was built in 1928. Kilohana Located just west of Līhu‘e, the 16,000-square-foot Tudor mansion at Kilohana Plantation Estates was built in 1935 in the English country house tradition. Kilohana was built on the site of a home owned by Albert Spencer Wilcox and Emma Napoleon Mahelona, who lived there from 1896 to 1935. Albert, the son of Wai‘oli missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox, had purchased the land from the Līhu‘e Plantation when he worked as their manager. Albert’s nephew, Gaylord Parke Wilcox, and his wife Ethel, moved to Kaua‘i from Honolulu in 1936 when Gaylord took over the management of Grove Farm Plantation. The old home at Kilohana was torn down, and a new home was designed in the English country house style by renowned architect Mark Potter. Considered Kaua‘i’s first “mansion,” it was the most expensive home on the island at the time it was built. After construction of Kilohana was finished, the Wilcox’s furnished the home with a large order from the high-class Gump’s store of San Francisco. Many of the furnishings may still be seen in the home. The self-sufficient Kilohana Estate included a cattle ranch and a dairy herd as well as a milking shed, piggery, poultry house, carriage house, and horse stables. Taro and other vegetables were grown at the estate along with coffee and various flowers. Kilohana became a commercial venture in 1985 with the opening of Gaylord’s Restaurant in a garden courtyard area. Various shops on the site sell local arts and crafts and specialty items. On display at the 35-acre estate are rare Hawaiian artifacts as well as historic cottages, flower gardens, and agricultural exhibits. Carriage rides pulled by Clydesdale horses allow tours of the estate’s grounds, including gardens, livestock, and buildings that once housed workers for the plantation. A Sugarcane History Tour carriage ride is offered as well as a weekly lū‘au (traditional Hawaiian feast).[169] The Rice Era By the end of the 1800’s and well into the 1900’s, rice was a primary agricultural crop in Hawai‘i, second only to sugarcane. Ninety percent of rice produced in the Hawaiian Islands came from Kaua‘i and O‘ahu, and the single largest rice-producing region in the Hawaiian Islands was Hanalei on Kaua‘i’s north shore. Hanapēpē on the southwest shore, was also a major rice growing area. The rise of rice as an agricultural product on Kaua‘i and throughout the Hawaiian Islands was due to several causes, including the abandonment of many traditional taro farming areas after the tragic decline in the native Hawaiian population due to foreign diseases. These former taro lands had good irrigation and were perfect for growing rice. Changes in land laws also led to increased foreign ownership of land, which then became available for foreign-run agricultural pursuits. Another factor in the rise of rice farming was that many Chinese workers had come to Hawai‘i to work on the sugar plantations and then were free to start their own enterprises after they finished their work contracts, which often lasted for three years. The strong demand for rice among the many Asians that came to Hawai‘i made rice farming a profitable business. Chinese rice farmers dominated Hawai‘i’s rice industry during its early years, but the annexation of Hawai‘i to the United States in 1898 meant that people from China could no longer travel freely to and from Hawai‘i. Agreements with the Japanese government led to the immigration of large numbers of Japanese, who became the predominant rice farmers in the Hawaiian Islands in the early 1900’s. This was followed by the integration of numerous other ethnicities, including an influx of Filipino rice farmers in the 1930’s. California rice producers began to dominate the rice industry in the 1920’s, causing Hawai‘i’s rice exports to steadily decline and eventually leading to the end of the rice industry in the Hawaiian Islands. Rice Farming A crop of rice, from planting to harvest, takes about four months to grow. Hawai‘i’s rice farmers were busy year round, however, completing the many tasks involved in rice farming, including field preparation and ditch clearing as well as milling and equipment repair. The farmers also grew other food products to eat. The climate of some rice-growing areas, such as Hanalei, allowed just one rice crop per year, and it was usually planted in May. Drier areas on Kaua‘i, such as Hanapēpē, could produce two crops per year.[170] In the early years, oxen and water buffalo were used to plow the fields. Seed was soaked in a stream for two days, germinated on a threshing floor for up to three days, and then planted in seed beds immersed in about two inches of water. After about three weeks the seedlings were tied into bundles and then transplanted into the rice paddies. During harvest the stalks were cut with a serrated sickle and allowed to dry before being bundled and brought to the threshing floor. Threshing took up to five days, and was done by horses attached to ropes tied to a pole at the center of the threshing floor. The horses walked in circles, trampling the grain to separate the seed from the stalks, which were then raked away as each successive layer was threshed. Tractors eventually replaced horses.[171] Winnowing separated the chaff and dust from the grain. The rice was raked into rows aligned with the wind, repeatedly sieved, sifted, dried by spreading and raking, and then placed in 100 pound sacks that were sewn closed and stored in a granary. Rice milling was done to clean and shell the threshed rice, removing the hulls and bran. The mills’ wheels were usually powered by water, thus the rice mills were usually located near a river or other water source.[172] After the rice was husked and polished, it was graded and then bagged for shipment to market. Kaua‘i’s First Cattle Ranch On August 27, 1831, Englishman Richard Charlton, the British Consul for Hawai‘i,[173] secured a 20-year lease from Kaua‘i’s Governor Kaikio‘ewa for a portion of Hanalei from the eastern side of Hanalei Valley to Kalihiwai. With longhorn cattle brought from “Norte California,”[174] Charlton started one of the first cattle ranches in the Hawaiian Islands, and the first cattle ranch on Kaua‘i. By 1840, Charlton had about 100 head of cattle. Charlton’s fee for use of the land was “560 boards,”[175] of lumber to be cut by Charlton and used by King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) to build a house. Though apparently the fee was never paid, Charlton retained use of the land until the lease was purchased by Captain Jules Dudoit in 1845. Dudoit was the first French Consul to Hawai‘i, serving from 1837 to 1848 when he moved to Hanalei with his family of five children: Maude, Adele, Blanche, Charles, and Jules. From 1848 until the early 1950’s, the Dudoits lived in the Kellett House on the bluff of Lanihuli overlooking Hanalei Bay. Dudoit exported butter and packed salt beef for whaling ships, and also shipped beef to Honolulu. Behind the Kellett home was an area where cattle were slaughtered. In 1917, Elsie Wilcox wrote: “The slaughter-pens were in the little valley back of the Lanihuli home, directly back of where Mr. Birkmyer’s house now stands.”[176] In February of 1850, when Albert Lyman of Connecticut sailed the trading schooner Samuel Roberts into Hanalei Bay, he visited several Hanalei families and noted that fine milk was available from the Dudoit/Dudaver estate: “We every day procure a bucket of the most delicious rich and new milk from the estate of Mr. Dudaver/Dudoit, on which he has about 1800 head of fine cattle. Milk is a most acceptable article on board, and a rare treat for us all.”[177] Movies on Kaua‘i—Frank Sinatra, Elvis Presley and John Wayne Frank Sinatra first came to Kaua‘i in the early 1950’s when he performed at the Kaua‘i County Fair. In April of 1964, Sinatra returned to Kaua‘i, directing and starring in None But the Brave, the story of a group of United States Marines who crash land on a Pacific island controlled by the Japanese during World War II. The main set of None But the Brave was located at Pila‘a Beach on Kaua‘i’s northeastern shore, and Sinatra stayed at the Coco Palms Hotel in Wailua. One Sunday afternoon while Sinatra was swimming at Wailua Beach he saw Ruth Koch, wife of movie producer Howard Koch, in trouble in the strong ocean currents. Sinatra swam out to help her but instead found himself quickly pulled out to sea while Koch made it safely to shore. After about 20 minutes in the water, Sinatra was rescued, apparently just in the nick of time as he was starting to turn blue and was on the verge of drowning. An ambulance was called. Fortunately, Sinatra was able to recuperate, only missing one day of work before returning to the set. On April 12, 1961, Elvis Presley began filming Blue Hawaii, his first movie on Kaua‘i and also his most commercially successful movie. In the film, Elvis plays Chad Gates, who avoids working in his family’s pineapple business by working for a travel agency. Much of the film was shot on the grounds of the Coco Palms Hotel with other filming done at Wailua Beach, Lydgate Park, Kealia Beach, and Anahola Bay. Notable Elvis songs in the movie included Blue Hawaii, Rock-a-Hula Blues, and Can’t Help Falling in Love. Elvis also sang the renowned Hawaiian song Aloha ‘Oe, which was written by Queen Lili‘uokalani. The Hawaiian Wedding Song was sung by Elvis in the famous wedding scene atop a canoe in the Coco Palms lagoon. Elvis returned to Kaua‘i in 1964 to film Paradise Hawaiian Style, playing ex-airline pilot Rick Richards who runs a helicopter sightseeing business and finds romance at different Island locations. Co-stars in the film were Suzanna Leigh and James Shigeta, and songs by Elvis included Bill Bailey, Won’t You Please Come Home, Sand Castles, and A Dog’s Life. Paradise Hawaiian Style was released in 1966, and in 1967, Elvis and Priscilla Presley were married in Las Vegas. The couple then came to Hawai‘i, where Elvis re-enacted the famous Blue Hawaii wedding scene at Coco Palms, and renewed his vows to Priscilla. John Wayne was Hollywood’s most popular star when he arrived on Kaua‘i in 1962 to film Donovan’s Reef. In the movie, John Wayne plays “Guns” Donovan, a former United States Marine who opens a tropical bar in the South Pacific. The main filming set for Donovan’s Reef was Hanama‘ulu Beach and nearby Ahukini Pier on Kaua‘i’s eastern coastline. Various other Kaua‘i sites were also utilized for filming, including Waimea Canyon, the Wailua River, and the Allerton Estate at Lāwa‘i.[178] The Story of Princeville The Princeville Plantation was begun by Scotsman Robert Crichton Wyllie in 1853. Wyllie paid $1,300 for the Government (Crown) lands leased to the Rhodes & Co. Coffee Plantation in Hanalei Valley, and later added to his Hanalei land holdings by purchasing a great deal of adjacent land to the east above Hanalei Valley. Wyllie was born in Ayrshire, Scotland, and had previously been a surgeon aboard British ships. He then became wealthy as a merchant in London, Mexico, and South America. When Queen Emma and King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani) visited Hanalei in 1860 with their son, Prince Albert, they were the guests of Robert Crichton Wyllie, the Minister of Foreign Affairs for the Hawaiian Kingdom. The royal party stayed at Kikiula, the home of Wyllie’s plantation manager, Gottfried Frederick Wundenberg. In the summer of 1860, to honor the young Prince Albert, Wyllie changed the name of his Hanalei estate to the Princeville Plantation, and made the young Prince the intended heir to the estate. Tragically, Prince Albert passed away in 1862 at the age of four. His father, King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani), passed away in 1863 at the age of 29. Wyllie began construction of the Hanalei Sugar Mill in 1861 on the east bank of the Hanalei River. With a brick smokestack rising to 110 feet and $40,000 worth of machinery from Glasgow, Scotland, the 1000-ton capacity mill was the most modern and productive mill in the Hawaiian Islands. The mill’s rollers were able to express 600 gallons of cane juice in 20 minutes. The Princeville Plantation’s first crop of sugar was harvested in 1863, and by the early 1870’s the mill was processing a crop averaging about 400 tons annually.[179] Scows (flat-bottom boats) were used to bring sugarcane down the Hanalei River to the mill, and then a conveyor belt carried the cane in to be processed. The Hanalei Sugar Mill became the center of a small but busy factory village that included a post office, storage buildings, camphouses, and a butcher shop. Wyllie passed away in 1865 at his Rosebank estate on O‘ahu, and was buried at Honolulu’s Royal Mausoleum. Wyllie’s principal heir was his nephew, Robert Crichton Cockrane, who had come to Kaua‘i from Waltham, Illinois to learn the sugarcane business from John Low, the manager of the Princeville Plantation at the time. In early 1866, Cockrane was in Hanalei preparing to welcome his bride-to-be. Just eight days before the marriage was to take place, Cockrane was at the home of Princeville Plantation manager John Low, where several men had gathered to listen to a musical performance. Cockrane left the group for a time, and when Low went to look for him he discovered him in the outside privy, where he had cut his own throat with a razor. He was bleeding profusely from the large wound, and fell forward into Low’s arms. Cockrane’s wound was sewed up, and for the next several days he slipped in and out of consciousness, sometimes acting rational but other times becoming delirious. Cockrane wrote and tremulously signed a bloodstained will that gave Princeville Plantation to his fiance and his mother.[180] Elsie Wilcox wrote: “Dr. Smith, the nearest physician, was summoned from Koloa, and made a record-breaking ride with relays of horses, covering the forty-five miles in three hours. Doctors were also sent down from Honolulu, but their skill was of no avail. The young fellow died.”[181] Cockrane was buried in the Wai‘oli Church cemetery in an unmarked grave. The financial difficulties of the Princeville Plantation were said to have been a major cause of Cockrane’s suicide. The Princeville sugar plantation continued to struggle financially due to labor shortages, costs associated with irrigation and milling equipment, fires, droughts, vandalism, and damage caused by an agricultural pest called the cane borer. By 1880, Princeville Plantation’s sugarcane enterprise employed about 200 laborers and had 900 breeding stock, 400 head working stock, and 150 steers ready to be broken in. About 100 acres of sugarcane were cultivated on the upper slopes and about 200 acres grew in Hanalei Valley. Sugar in Hanalei remained unprofitable, however, and the Hanalei Sugar Mill was shut down by C. Brewer & Company in 1894. By May of 1899, Albert Spencer Wilcox had secured complete ownership of the Princeville estate, and he converted much of the land from sugar production to a cattle ranch. The Princeville Ranch House, which was located on a plateau on the east side of Hanalei Valley, had been home to various families since the 1840’s. Though it was modernized at the turn of the century, the Princeville Ranch House eventually fell into disrepair and was abandoned. The house was torn down in the fall of 1918. In 1919, the Hanalei Sugar Mill was demolished, and the bricks from the 110-foot chimney were sold to the Kīlauea Sugar Company.
Part III Hanalei History Table of Contents Part 1: First Settlement to Western Contact Ancient Times—1778 Part 2: Western Contact to the Great Māhele 1778—1850 Part 3: Royal Visits and the Story of Princeville 1850—1900 Part 4: The Rice Era and the Beach Houses of Hanalei 1900—1950 Part: Hanalei Today—Art and Nature 1950—2006
Hanalei History (Partially Expanded) Table of Contents Introduction Part 1: First Settlement to Western Contact (Ancient Times—1778) In the Beginning Life Takes Hold—Colonization and Evolution The Polynesians Arrive The Development of a Unique Hawaiian Culture The Moku (Chiefdom) of Halele‘a The Mountains of Hanalei Four Ahupua‘a of Hanalei Bay Hanalei in Ancient Times Hanalei Bay—Pu‘upōā and Makahoa Part 2: Western Contact to the Great Māhele (1778—1850) Kamehameha and the Treacherous Kaua‘i Channel Missionaries Come to Hanalei Russian Forts in Hanalei The Sinking of Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i—Cleopatra’s Barge The Kaua‘i Rebellion Captain Kellett—Hanalei’s Pilot of the Port Charles Titcomb—Silk, Coffee, Sugar, and “Emmasville” Kaua‘i’s First Cattle Ranch The Great Māhele Part 3: Royal Visits and the Story of Princeville (1850—1900) Princess Ruth Visits Hanalei Princeville Plantation—Rhodes, Wundenberg, Wyllie, and Kikiula Hanalei’s First Catholic Chapel The Stranded Crew of the U.S.S. Saginaw (1870) King Kalākaua Visits Hanalei Princess Lili‘uokalani Visits Hanalei The Deverill House—Hanalei Hotel Part 4: The Rice Era and the Beach Houses of Hanalei (1900—1950) Roads and Bridges Wai‘oli Mission in the 20th Century The Hanalei River The Rice Era Weke Road and Beach Houses of Hanalei Part 5: Hanalei Today—Art and Nature (1950—2006) Hollywood Comes to Hanalei Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge Hurricanes and Tsunamis Hanalei Today Birds of Hanalei Timeline of the History of Hanalei Appendix I—Polynesian-Introduced Species Complete List of Sources
Hanalei History (Fully Expanded) Table of Contents Introduction Author’s Note A Drive Through 1,000 Years of History Part 1: First Settlement to Western Contact (Ancient Times—1778) In the Beginning Life Takes Hold—Colonization and Evolution The Polynesians Arrive The Development of a Unique Hawaiian Culture Taro—The Staff of Life Sidebar: Map—Moku of Kaua‘i The Moku (Chiefdom) of Halele‘a Sidebar: Map—Ahupua‘a in the Moku (Chiefdom) of Halele‘a The Mountains of Hanalei Sidebar: The Menehune Four Ahupua‘a of Hanalei Bay Hanalei in Ancient Times ‘Auwai (Irrigation Ditches)—Kuna Ditch and China Ditch Po‘okū Heiau Hanalei Bay—Pu‘upōā and Makahoa Part 2: Western Contact to the Great Māhele (1778—1850) Kamehameha and the Treacherous Kaua‘i Channel Missionaries Come to Hanalei The Alexanders Establish a Mission at Wai‘oli Sidebar: The Wai‘oli Lease Abner and Lucy Wilcox Russian Forts in Hanalei The Sinking of Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i—Cleopatra’s Barge The Kaua‘i Rebellion Captain Kellett—Hanalei’s Pilot of the Port Charles Titcomb—Silk, Coffee, Sugar, and “Emmasville” Kaua‘i’s First Cattle Ranch The Great Māhele Part 3: Royal Visits and the Story of Princeville (1850—1900) Princess Ruth Visits Hanalei Princeville Plantation—Rhodes, Wundenberg, Wyllie, and Kikiula The Hanalei Sugar Mill Sidebar: Wyllie’s Broadside Distributed to Natives of Hanalei Princeville Plantation House—Walter Foss Sanborn Hanalei’s First Catholic Chapel Roman Catholic Chapel, Belfry, and Rectory The Stranded Crew of the U.S.S. Saginaw (1870) King Kalākaua Visits Hanalei Princess Lili‘uokalani Visits Hanalei The Deverill House—Hanalei Hotel Part 4: The Rice Era and the Beach Houses of Hanalei (1900—1950) Roads and Bridges Hanalei Bridge Wai‘oli Bridge Waipā Bridge Waikoko Bridge Wai‘oli Mission in the 20th Century Wai‘oli Mission House Wai‘oli Mission Hall Wai‘oli Church Belfry Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church Wai‘oli Church Parsonage Hanalei Today—Restoring Wai‘oli Mission The Hanalei River Ka‘āpoko Tunnel Hanalei Tunnel The Rice Era Growing and Milling Rice Hanalei Pier The Haraguchis—A Tradition of Farming Map: Hanalei in the Rice Era Hanalei in the Early 1900s—A Journey through Old Hanalei Ah Hoy Store (later called Ching Ma Leong) Haraguchi Rice Mill (on site of old Man Sing Rice Mill) The Haraguchis—A Tradition of Farming Man Sung Wai Rice Mill Chinese Temple Yee Hing Society Community Home—Chinese Language School Japanese Hongwanji Hanalei Chinese Cemetery—Ah Goong San (Grandfathers’ Mountain) Chong Hing Store Hamamura Store Pā‘ele—Shing Kon Sung Rice Plantation (formerly Soy Sung Wai) now site of Hanalei Gardens Farm and Bison Ranch Trader Building Mrs. Shiraishi’s Barber Shop I. Nakatsuka General Store Hanalei Museum and Snack Shop The Ching Youngs Ching Young Store / Ching Young Rice Mill Kodama Barber Shop Chinese Christian (Congregational) Church Parsonage Say Dock House See Tai Wai Rice Mill T. S. See Wo Store (now site of Church of Latter Day Saints) Katayama Store Takenaka Auto Repair [Takahashi’s Garage and Repair Shop] Nagaoaka Restaurant and Bakery Gas Station Hanalei Shingon—Japanese Shingon Temple Japanese Language School (now site of St. Williams Catholic Church) Chock Chin Chock Chin Residence Chock Chin Store (later called C. Akeoni Store, Lau Store, Hanalei Store) The Lily Pond Tasaka Residence & Saimin [Sidebar:] Kenichi Tasaka Lily Pond House The Hanalei Post Office Old Hanalei Post Office Boxes District Courthouse Jail Hanalei School Old Hanalei School Building Nakatsuji Rice Mill (formerly Hop Chong Wai Rice Mill) Hiramoto Rice Mill (formerly Hee Fat Rice Mill) Chock Chin Rice Mill Weke Road and Beach Houses of Hanalei Black Pot Beach Park and the Hukilau/ Lumaha‘i Hula Kauikeōlani—Albert Spencer Wilcox Beach House Kanoa Pond Kamo‘omaika‘i Fishpond Old Hanalei Pavilion Sanborn Beach House Reed House Sanborn Poi Mill Fayé Beach House Princeville Ranch Manager’s House The Bounty House Mahamoku—Mabel and Charles Wilcox House Part 5: Hanalei Today—Art and Nature (1950—2006) Hollywood Comes to Hanalei Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge Hurricanes and Tsunamis Hanalei Today Princeville Haraguchi Rice Mill Hanalei River and Bay Canoes and Sailboats in Hanalei Bay The Hanalei River Hui [Sidebar:] Kauahoa—The Handsome Hero of Hanalei The Waipā Foundation [Sidebar:] David Sproat Shipwrecks—Uncovering the Past The Return of Taro Connections to Ancient Times Hanalei Bridge The Boating Controversy Surfing A Pod of Whales in Hanalei Bay [Sidebars:] Puff the Magic Dragon The Tahiti Nui Birds of Hanalei Native Waterbirds Ae‘o—Hawaiian Black-Necked Stilt ‘Alae Ke‘oke—Hawaiian Coot Koloa Maoli—Hawaiian Duck ‘Alae ‘Ula—Hawaiian Moorhen ‘Auku‘u—Black-Crowned Night-Heron Open Country Birds Nēnē—Hawaiian Goose Migratory Species—Seasonal Residents and Occasional Visitors Kōlea—Pacific Golden Plover Mōlī—Laysan Albatross Koloa Mohā—Northern Shoveler Koloa Māpu—Northern Pintail Hunakai—Sanderling Green-Winged Teal Blue-Winged Teal Bufflehead Baikal Teal White-Faced Ibis Seabirds ‘Iwa—Great Frigatebird ‘A‘o—Newell’s (Townsend’s) Shearwater ‘Ua‘u Kani—Wedge-Tailed Shearwater [Sidebar:] Rescuing Shearwaters Koa‘e Kea—White-Tailed Tropicbird Koa‘e ‘Ula—Red-Tailed Tropicbird Native Waterbirds Ae‘o—Hawaiian Black-Necked Stilt ‘Alae Ke‘oke—Hawaiian Coot Koloa Maoli—Hawaiian Duck ‘Alae ‘Ula—Hawaiian Moorhen ‘Auku‘u—Black-Crowned Night-Heron Timeline of the History of Hanalei Sidebar: King Kaumuali‘i (c.1780-1824) Appendix I—Polynesian-Introduced Species Complete List of Sources
Note: All Hawaiian words in this text include proper diacritical marks, including the ‘okina (hamzah, or glottal stop) and kahakō (macron), except when the word is cited directly as part of a title or in a direct quote, in which case the words are spelled as originally published. See Appendix 1: Note On Sources for more information about diacritical marks; objectivity; Hawaiian word spellings and meanings; scientific, cultural, and historic information; new research and discoveries; verifying dates and details of historic events; and Hawaiian sovereignty and other native issues. INTRODUCTION Perhaps no place on this planet is so blessed by nature as Hanalei—set on a fertile coastal plain, tucked beneath emerald green mountains and surrounded by golden-sand beaches. The lofty peaks are lined with shimmering waterfalls and the landscape is lush and green. Frequent rainshowers energize the streams and rivers and create rainbows that arch across the sky. The story of Hanalei is a story of a place and a people. Today the native and immigrant descendants of Hanalei’s early residents are interwoven throughout Kaua‘i’s north shore population, living in Hanalei town and neighboring towns, up in the hills or deep in the north shore valleys where they carry on the history and culture of their ancestors. The word “Hanalei” has been translated as “Crescent bay,”[182] “Lei valley,” and “Wreath making,”[183] referring either to the rainbows that color the sky like a lei of flowers or the mountains that encircle Hanalei like a wreath.[184] “Hanalei” is the name of the valley that winds its way for many miles up into the high mountains, the town as well as the name of the small town that sits just inland from the shoreline of Hanalei Bay. “Hanalei” also refers to the whole coastal plain bordering the bay, and in the broadest sense includes all the lands from Princeville in the east to Waikoko in the west. The protected waters of Hanalei Bay are ideal for swimming, surfing, or just walking along the shoreline. A hiking trail leads up a ridge overlooking the town and the surrounding valleys as well as Hanalei Bay, one of the state’s largest bays. The Hanalei River flows down from the rainy heights of Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale at the center of Kaua‘i. From the high mountains the river carves a long course through the upper reaches of Hanalei Valley before meandering along the coastal plain and emptying into the sea at Hanalei Bay, which glistens like a jewel on Kaua‘i’s northern coast. If you are standing in the hills above Hanalei or floating out on the bay’s clear blue waters and gazing at the majestic mountains all around, Hanalei can seem almost timeless, an enchanted place, ancient and beautiful from the mountains to the sea. In many ways, Hanalei’s history mirrors that of Hawai‘i as a whole—from first Polynesian settlement to Western contact, and through the eras of whaling, sandalwood, missionaries, rice, sugarcane, and the aftermath of the attack on Pearl Harbor—yet the remote north shore of Kaua‘i was often among the last areas to feel the effects of Western influences and changing world events. Kaua‘i is set apart from the other Hawaiian Islands by a large ocean channel whose waters thwarted even Kamehameha the Great as his invading armies were forced to turn back in the treacherous seas. Kaua‘i shares a history with the rest of the Hawaiian Islands, but also has its own distinct history shaped by its relative isolation. Hanalei plays a large part in that history, with its own unique stories that have helped to shape the district you see today. Hanalei Valley was well-populated in ancient times, supporting a thriving native population and producing bounteous supplies of food from the land and sea. Large and well-irrigated lo‘i kalo (taro patches) grew in Hanalei and neighboring valleys, and Hanalei Bay was teeming with fish that were caught by hook and line as well as with nets and spears. Hanalei’s earliest residents grew large amounts of kalo (taro), mai‘a (bananas), ‘ulu (breadfruit), ‘uala (sweet potatoes), pi‘a (yams), niu (coconuts), and other food plants that the first Polynesian settlers brought to the Islands on the their voyaging canoes. British explorer Captain James Cook established Western contact with the Hawaiian Islands in 1778, and soon ships from around the world began arriving on Hawai‘i’s shores. Many foreigners took up residence in the Islands, and during the first half of the 1800s Hanalei was the site of various agricultural endeavors that produced significant harvests of mulberry leaves (to feed silkworms), coffee, tobacco, cotton, rice, sugarcane, citrus fruits, peaches, pineapples, bananas, dates, tamarinds, guavas, potatoes, plantains, yams, cabbage, lettuce, and other agricultural products. American Joseph Gardner raised sheep and other animals in Hanalei in the 1840s, and in 1848 he ran a mill and loom with several spinning-wheels manufacturing woolen and cotton cloth. The construction of the Hanalei Sugar Mill was completed on the banks of the Hanalei River in 1862, and by the late 1800s there were formidable attempts to grow and mill sugarcane in Hanalei Valley and on the Princeville plateau. By the 1870s, the rice era was well underway and the well-irrigated valley lands formerly used for taro were instead being used to grow rice. Cattle ranching became another major land use in the Hanalei region beginning in the late 1800s and continuing into the next century. Hanalei was visited by many members of Hawaiian royalty in the 1800s. King Kamehameha II (Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho) took a 42-day tour of Kaua‘i in 1821. King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) visited Hanalei in 1852 with a large entourage. King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani) visited Hanalei in 1856 with Queen Emma and they came again in 1860, this time with their young son, the Crown Prince Albert, whose visit inspired Hanalei plantation owner R. C. Wyllie to name his growing estate “Princeville.” Princess Ruth came to Hanalei in 1867 with her two white poodles and picnicked on the Hanalei River. When King Kalākaua came into Hanalei Bay on the Kīlauea in 1874 he was greeted by a “21-gun salute” fired from improvised cannons made from hollowed trunks of native ‘ōhi‘a lehua trees. Princess Lili‘uokalani sailed into Hanalei Bay in 1881 and then traveled to Kīlauea where she drove the ceremonial first spike at the Kīlauea Sugar Plantation. She returned to Hanalei as Queen Lili‘uokalani in 1891. In the early 1900s, nearly every square inch of Hanalei’s coastal plain was covered with rice. The first rice farmers were Chinese, followed by Japanese, Filipinos, Portuguese, and other ethnic groups, many of whom were former sugarcane workers who had finished their contracts with the plantations. The rice farmers also built homes, schools, stores, rice mills, churches, and temples, and raised their families in Hanalei. Many descendants of Hanalei’s rice era farmers still live in the region today. World War II brought changes in the Hanalei region as it did throughout all the Hawaiian Islands. Many influential Japanese and Japanese-Americans in the Islands were detained and sent to internment camps, and the Hanalei Shingon was shut down. Despite the way they were treated, many Japanese residents of Hawai‘i wished to show their loyalty and volunteered to join the war effort, forming the 100th Infantry Battalion and the 442nd Infantry Regimental Combat Team, which became the most decorated units in U.S. history. Recent decades have seen a resurgence in traditional Hawaiian practices in Hanalei and throughout the Islands, including the revival of Hawaiian canoe culture and hula, the restoration of ancient agricultural systems, and academic programs that emphasize the study of Hawaiian language and culture. These efforts have been energized and enlivened by Hawaiian musicians, dancers, writers, and political activists who have inspired renewed efforts toward resolution of Hawaiian sovereignty issues and other issues of particular concern to native Hawaiians. Since the 1950s Hanalei has been the scene of many a Hollywood film, and more recently has become a favorite retreat of the rich and famous. Hanalei’s beautiful beaches attract many visitors and also provide surfers with some of the world’s best surfing waves, which are ridden by renowned locals such as famed Hawaiian waterman Titus Kinimaka as well as multiple world champion Andy Irons and his equally amazing brother Bruce. Hanalei is also home to many ordinary people who love it for its natural beauty and its long and varied history. Much of that history is evident as you drive through the district, but there is also much that has vanished or lives on only in the memories of the elder generation who grew up in Hanalei. This book is about the place itself—the mountains, valleys, beaches, and bay—as well as the changes that humans have made on this ancient landscape: the fields, farms, churches, ranches, homesteads, bridges, and piers. This book is also about the people of Hanalei, including the stories and traditions of the earliest residents, the cultural contributions of those who came later, and the enduring aloha of Hanalei’s residents today.
[Photograph: Hanalei scene, raining] [Photo caption:] Ka ua loko o Hanalei The soaking rain of Hanalei [Photograph: View of Hanalei from ocean showing rivermouth and mountains/waterfalls in background] “At the time of my visit it was the rainy season. More than a score of cascades were leaping down the perpendicular steeps of those mountains, whose rugged summits, clad with a dense foliage, pierced the clouds at a height of four thousand feet. The valley itself was covered with plantations and pasturelands, dotted with groves of tropical trees. In the distance stood the Mission church and the other buildings comprising the station. Here and there the grass huts of the natives were sprinkled over the open tracts, or half concealed among the foliage. Beyond all, and forming the mouth of the valley, was the peaceful little harbor revealing its fair sandy beach, with the white foam of the surf defining its limits. The final touch to the picture was the beautiful river that meandered through the valley, kissing the wild flowers that clustered on its banks, or bearing a solitary canoe on its bosom, now losing itself among the dense foliage, and now bursting on the vision like a rich vein of silver stealing its way through the perpetual verdure.” Bates, 1854[185]
Author’s Note While attempting to write a general history of the Hanalei region, I confronted the problem of telling a story of a place’s past when it was glaringly noticeable that most of the available written history involved not natives but immigrants—and so I was left with many questions, particularly about the original Hawaiian people that lived in Hanalei before Western contact, and their stories. The more I researched, the more I realized that an underlying story exists, one that is difficult to tell, the untold history of a vanishing culture dispossessed of their traditions, the transformation of the native landscape, and the decimation of the indigenous people. What was it like more than a century ago as wave after wave of diseases killed many thousands of Hawaiians throughout the Islands? How did the natives cope as their communities were devastated by epidemics that emptied whole villages? From 1835 to 1860, the population of the Hanalei district decreased by half even as the non-native population increased steadily with the arrival of new immigrants.[186] This mirrored the overall decline of the native population throughout the Hawaiian Islands with—less than 40,000 native Hawaiians remained by 1890, down from a native population at the time of Western contact estimated to be more than a quarter million people, and possibly more than twice that number.[187] All but lost to history, the stories of the many native Hawaiians who perished in the wake of Western contact are not told here. Where I could, I have provided the basic historical facts such as statistics of population decline, dates of epidemics, and names of foreign-introduced diseases, yet the details remain a mystery. Each new epidemic, each new wave of foreign influences, furthered the inexorable unraveling of an ancient cultural fabric, the rich and complex culture of a self-sufficient people living on the planet’s most isolated archipelago for more than 1,000 years before Western contact. To address these difficult questions—the subtleties of political events, issues of land ownership, and the complex human issues involving an indigenous culture and native landscape irretrievably changed—would require many more pages, and would need to range over all the Hawaiian Islands. This book is just the story of one area of one island, yet I have tried to write it with an awareness of, and sensitivity to, these complicated issues. I have lived in Hanalei for many years, yet I am not native-born nor have I any native Hawaiian ancestry. I am myself a foreign voice and cannot speak for those of native descent, some of whom may read this book and mourn for the loss of so many of their people, and for the changed and still changing nature of their land and culture.
[Photograph: Hanalei Valley Lookout] [Photo Caption:] “As a scene of beauty, it is almost peerless.” Theophilus H. Davies, 1862[188] [Illustration: Overview map of Hanalei (numbered for driving tour)] A Drive Through 1,000 Years of History When you approach Hanalei by car, pause first at the Hanalei Valley Lookout [#], located just above the eastern edge of Hanalei Valley alongside Route 560 (Kūhiō Highway) near the Princeville Shopping Center.[189] The scenic overlook provides expansive views of Hanalei’s coastal plain, including the taro patches of the 917-acre Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge [#]. Interpretive signs at the Lookout provide information about the region’s endangered waterbirds. The Hanalei Lookout is visited by about one-half million people each year. A new Lookout is being planned for a six-acre site about ½-mile up above the former location. The new facility will include a visitor center and bookstore, and will be owned and operated by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service. Hanalei’s coastal plain spans across the lower regions of four separate ahupua‘a (watersheds)—Hanalei [#],Wai‘oli[#], Waipā[#], and Waikoko[#]—all of which flow into Hanalei Bay. The massive mountains rising up from the coastal plain are, from east to west, Hīhīmanu [#], Nāmolokama [#], and Māmalahoa [#]. Above the Lookout are the 9,000 immaculate acres of Princeville [#], Kaua‘i’s most famous resort, located on the coastal plateau known in ancient times as Pu‘u Pehu above the eastern side of Hanalei Valley. The Princeville Hotel [#] is terraced into the oceanfront hillside of Pu‘upōā Ridge overlooking Hanalei Bay. Princeville’s two golf courses—thePrince Course [#] and the Makai Course [#]—are consistently ranked among the best in the nation, and on the hilltop above it all is the Princeville Health Club and Spa [#]. Along the eastern edge of Hanalei Valley once stood three of the Hanalei’s most historic post-contact homes:Kikiula [#], a two-room stone plantation home built in 1845 and later known as the Princeville Plantation House; theKellett House [#], once home to Captain Kellett, Hanalei’s “Pilot of the Port,” and the Birkmyre Estate [#], used as the French planter’s home in the 1957 movie South Pacific. The Hanalei Plantation Hotel [#] was built on the former site of the Birkmyre home, and it later became a Club Med before eventually being torn down. For a few years in the mid-1970s a riverboat shuttle provided transportation across the Hanalei River from the resort to Black Pot Beach Park. Traveling west from the Hanalei Valley Lookout, you will go down the hill on Route 560 into Hanalei Valley and across the Hanalei River [#]. As you drive from Princeville into Hanalei Valley you will descend from the region’s ultramodern present into Hanalei’s long and colorful history. Ships lie sunken at the bottom of Hanalei Bay [#], and many more carried royalty or invading forces across the large and unpredictable Ka‘ie‘iewaho Channel from O’ahu. At the bottom of the hill is the historic Hanalei Bridge[#] built in 1912 to replace an earlier bridge that had been built in 1892. Before that travelers were carried across the river on a ferry pulled on a cable. The wagon road leading down to Hanalei Bridge was so steep that extra horses were required to help carriages up the hill or slow their descent. Crossing the river in ancient times, according to legend, required the presentation of a gift to the rivermouth’s lizard dragon, Kamo‘o-o-kaumuliwai. When Hi‘iaka, the younger sister of the volcano goddess Pele, became angered that a torrent of water was blocking her path, she turned the lizard dragon to stone. Beyond Hanalei Bridge the road is lined with fields of taro reaching across the landscape to the base of the mountains and up into Hanalei Valley. Archaeological studies have dated agricultural activity in the river valley to at least A.D. 1200, though it probably began much earlier.[190] In ancient times, native Hawaiians built their thatched homes along the Hanalei River, on the hillsides above the valley’s taro patches, and all along the Hanalei Bay shoreline. In 1778, British explorer Captain James Cook established Western contact with the Hawaiian Islands. Before long, Kaua‘i’s north shore and the Hanalei region felt the wide-ranging influences of the post-contact era, including sandalwood traders, whalers, and missionaries. The first permanent mission station in the area was established at Wai‘oli in 1834. In 1840, the lands just past Hanalei Bridge were the site of mulberry orchards that supplied food for a silkworm enterprise producing fine silk sold in Mazatlan and Mexico City. In 1842 in Hanalei Valley, the first commercial coffee plantation in the Hawaiian Islands was established. Just downriver, the Hanalei Sugar Mill [#] was completed in 1862 with $40,000 worth of machinery from Scotland, and the mill’s 110-foot smokestack stood until 1919. [Photograph: Hanalei Sugar Mill] From the late 1800s into the early 1900s, virtually all of Hanalei was a checkerboard of rice paddies, and numerous rice mills and stores operated throughout the region. Still standing just upriver from the Hanalei Bridge is the restoredHaraguchi Rice Mill [#], originally built in 1930 and now Hawai‘i’s only surviving rice mill from the historic rice-farming era. Nearby is the Hanalei Chinese Cemetery [#], also known as Ah Goong San (Grandfathers’ Mountain). The drive from Hanalei Bridge to Hanalei town is a winding stretch of road that meanders between fields of taro and the Hanalei River. Across the river a herd of bison roams on the marshy grasslands that were known in ancient times as Pā‘ele [#], now the site of the Hanalei Garden Farms and Bison Ranch. Hanalei is located at 22.2 degrees north latitude and 159.5 degrees west longitude, about 126 miles from Honoluluand 5,151 miles (8,290 km) from Washington D.C.[191] As Route 560 enters Hanalei town, makai (seaward) of the road is the Hanalei Liquor Store [#], founded and still run by descendants of early rice farmers. Nearby and across the street is a former Hongwanji Japanese Buddhist Temple [#] that was built in Līhu‘e in 1901 and then moved in 1985 to Hanalei where it now serves as a Bed and Breakfast Inn. Further west is another local landmark, the Tahiti Nui [#] renowned for its classic, local-style musical performers and authentic Hawaiian hula. In the center of town is the Old Hanalei School Building [#], built in 1926 and then moved from its original site, which was about ½-mile to the west, where the new Hanalei School[#] is now located. Also in the center of Hanalei town is the old Ching Young Store Building [#], constructed in 1905 and now housing several shops alongside the newerChing Young Village Shopping Center [#]. Across the street is the Hanalei Center [#] (Wailele Building), housing various businesses and restaurants, and theSay Dock House [#], built in 1895 and now one of the oldest rice farmer homes still standing in the Hawaiian Islands. The Say Dock House is a private residence—please do not go on the property. Further west is the Hanalei Poi Company[#], which processes local taro into poi, and the Lily Pond [#], dug in the early 1900s by Chinese rice farmer Chock Chin, who also ran a store and rice mill. To the west of the Lily Pond is the Lily Pond House [#], built in 1933 near the shoreline of Hanalei Bay and later moved on coconut tree rollers to its current site. Next door is another rice era home that also served as a Saimin and Pool Hall (now a private residence). St. Williams Catholic Church [#] was built in 1955 at the corner of Mālolo Road and Route 560 on the former site of a Japanese Language School [#] that began operating around 1903. The Hanalei Shingon[#], a Japanese Shingon Temple, was built on the site in 1934 to host various local events, including weddings and the Obon dori celebration held each July. The school was closed due to the internment of Japanese teachers and ministers after the attack on Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1942, which entered the United States into World War II. Hanalei’s Wai‘oli Park [#] is now the site of many local soccer games, craft fairs, and the Hanalei Taro Festival. At the west end of the park is Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church [#], built in 1912. Just behind the church is Kaua‘i’s oldest surviving church building, the original Wai‘oli Church, which was built in 1841 and is now known as Wai‘oli Mission Hall [#]. Next to the old church is the Wai‘oli Belfry [#], the only surviving example of this type of bell tower structure in the Hawaiian Islands. Tucked back behind the trees is the Wai‘oli Mission House [#], built from 1834 to 1837, and completely restored in 1921. Hanalei Pier [#] is located at the eastern end of Weke Road near the Hanalei rivermouth. Originally built in 1892 to serve the region’s thriving rice industry, the pier was rebuilt in 1912 and again after Hurricane ‘Iniki damaged the structure in 1992. Today the pier is a popular place to fish, swim, and enjoy views of the bay’s sparkling blue waters and the towering mountains rising up behind Hanalei town. On the east side of Hanalei Pier is Black Pot Beach Park[#], named after a big iron pot that was used to cook fish caught during a hukilau, a traditional fishing practice in which everyone cooperates to spot, net, and gather fish. On the western side of the Hanalei River near the rivermouth once stood a Roman Catholic Chapel [#] established in 1864. A Rectory [#] was built next to the chapel to provide housing for the priest, and around 1900, a tall and slender, wooden Church Belfry [#] was built on the site. The original church bell now hangs in front of St. Williams Church in Hanalei town. Still standing along Weke Road (beginning on the western end and going east) are several historic structures including Kauikeōlani [#], built in 1896 as the home of Albert Spencer Wilcox and his wife Emma Kauikeōlani Napoleon Mahelona. Nearby is historic Kanoa Pond [#]. On the shore of Hanalei Bay is the Hanalei Pavilion [#], built to replace the Old Hanalei Pavilion destroyed in the 1957 tsunami. The Sanborn Beach House [#] was built in 1910, becoming the first Western-style “beach house” on the bay. The whole home was moved ten feet by the 1957 tsunami and then reposted in its new location. The Fayé Beach House [#] was built in 1915 by Norwegian Hans Peter Fayé, a Kaua‘i sugar plantation developer. The spacious, wood-framed home called Mahamoku [#] was constructed on the shoreline of Hanalei Bay in 1914 under the direction of Mabel and Charles Wilcox, descendants of early Hanalei missionary descendants Abner and Lucy Wilcox. Mahamoku (“Island of peace”) is notable for its steep roof and cantilevered loft balconies. Just west of Hanalei town is Wai‘oli Bridge[#] and a bit further is Waipā Bridge [#]. The two concrete, cast-in-place structures were built in 1912 after heavily-loaded, horse-drawn wagons carrying crushed rock for road construction collapsed the previous wooden bridges. An additional span was added to the Waipā Bridge after the 1946 tsunami altered the course of the Waipā Stream. Just past Waipā Bridge is Kumu Road, which leads to the Japanese Cemetery [#]. The ahupua‘a (watershed) of Waipā [#] is being restored by a native-based community group utilizing the valley as a “living classroom” that includes taro patches and an ancient loko i‘a (fishpond). Finally the road crosses Waikoko Bridge [#], which collapsed in the 1946 tsunami. Rocks stacked atop the fallen structure made it functional again, and the hastily repaired bridge remains in use today. Route 560 then follows the sandy shoreline of Hanalei Bay before climbing a hill and then winding around a bend towards the beaches and valley of Lumaha‘i Valley and out of our story. Within this book are many historic Hanalei sites not mentioned in this brief overview.
HANALEI: A HISTORY Part 1 First Settlement to Western Contact (Ancient Times—1778) In the Beginning About five million years ago, a massive volcano came steaming up from the sea to form the island of Kaua‘i. The volcano was created by a stationary plume of erupting lava known as the Hawaiian “hot spot.” From deep in the Earth, the magma rose toward the surface until it burned through the Earth’s crust and lava exploded onto the seafloor where it grew into a volcanic undersea mountain known as a seamount. Eventually the seamount grew so tall it rose above the surface and became an island. (Note: Recent research has shown that the hotspot may be slowly moving.) Even as the island of Kaua‘i continued to grow, it was being rafted northwest at about 3½ inches per year on the Pacific Plate, a massive piece of the Earth’s crust known geologically as a tectonic plate. Kaua‘i grew to more than 8,000 feet above sea level as it moved farther away from the magmatic hot spot, and Kaua‘i’s volcanoes became dormant and then extinct. To the southeast the lava plume continued to burn through the Earth’s crust, first creating O‘ahu and then the rest of the Hawaiian Islands. As each volcanic island was created, one after another the islands moved northwest and away from the erupting lava plume. As each island moved northwest it made way for the next volcano to emerge. In the five million years that have passed since the formation of Kaua‘i, the island has moved about 400 miles northwest away from the site of the actively erupting lava. Today the lava plume of the Hawaiian magmatic hot spot sits beneath the southeast edge of Hawai‘i Island (the Big Island), where the eruptions continue today. About 18 miles off the southeast coast of the Hawai‘i Island, a new volcano has already begun rising up from the seafloor. This newest undersea volcano is called Lō‘ihi Seamount, and will eventually become the next Hawaiian Island. The whole string of volcanoes produced by the hot spot is known as the Hawaiian-Emperor Chain, and spans over the Pacific seafloor for more than 3,100 miles. This island-building process of the Hawaiian-Emperor Chain been continuing for at least the last 75 to 80 million years and has created at least 107 volcanoes in all, including all of the Hawaiian Islands as well as the Emperor Chain stretching off to the northwest. Most of the volcanoes of the Hawaiian-Emperor Chain are now completely underwater, with the exception of the eight main Hawaiian Islands at the very southeast end of the chain as well as some small islets and atolls of the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands that barely rise above sea level. The rest of the volcanoes of the Hawaiian-Emperor Chain have eroded away and are now submerged deep beneath the ocean’s surface. All of the volcanoes are extinct except for Haleakalā on Maui and four volcanoes on Hawai‘i Island: Kīlauea, Mauna Loa, Mauna Kea, and Hualālai. Kīlauea and Mauna Loa Volcanoes are considered active, while Mauna Kea, Hualālai and Haleakalā are considered dormant but not extinct. [Illustration: Hawaiian-Emperor Chain]
Life Takes Hold—Colonization and Evolution By the time humans arrived on Kaua‘i, the island’s volcanic summits had eroded down from about 8,000 feet above sea level to about 5,000 feet. The island’s harsh volcanic landscape was overlaid with soil and became lush and tropical. A diversity of island habitats supported thousands of native species, from stout koa trees and tiny forest birds in the mountains to native koloa (ducks) and ae‘o (stilts) in the wet lowland areas. [Photograph: Pueo] As coral reefs gradually built up around the island this created new areas of ocean habitat that allowed a multitude of fish and other marine species to establish populations and eventually evolve into unique Hawaiian species, including adistinct Hawaiian species of nai‘a (dolphin), ‘ilio-holo-i-ka-uaua (monk seal), and honu (sea turtle). Relatively few species made it across the Pacific Ocean and became established in the Hawaiian Islands, a tiny archipelago in the middle of a vast ocean and more than 2,400 miles from the nearest continental land mass. Some species did make it to the Islands, by “wind, wing, or wave,” and then spread out into a variety of different habitats and utilized many different food sources. Gradually, over many millions of years, a great diversity of unique Hawaiian species evolved. For example, a single species of finch bird evolved into more than 50 endemic species and subspecies of Hawaiian forest birds including the honeycreepers and honeyeaters with their fascinating array of beak shapes, each adapted to a different food source, including insects, seeds, and fruit. Endemic Hawaiian species are unique to the Hawaiian Islands, and found naturally nowhere else. The great variety of living things that eventually populated Kaua‘i’s diverse landscapes continued to evolve as the landscape also continued to change, with erosion carving out deep valleys from the island’s summit to the sea. The canyon of Hanalei Valley was about 2,000 feet deep when lava from the volcanic eruptions known as the Kōloa lava flows filled it to the brim, creating the broad and relatively flat plateau lands on the peninsula now known as Princeville. The Kōloa lava flows also relocated the Hanalei River to the west where the new streambed began eroding the basalt lava from earlier Nāpali flows, which were thinner and less resistant to erosion than the Kōloa flows. The relocated watercourse of the Hanalei River carved nearly 1,000 feet deep into the Nāpali flows to create the modern Hanalei Valley. Today the eastern ridge of Hanalei Valley is a basalt mold of the ancient canyon.[192] The coastal area that is now the site of Hanalei town was once underwater as part of a shallow marine bay. About 4,000 years ago steadily decreasing sea levels revealed the Hanalei coastal plain. Evidence for decreasing sea levels during the Holocene epoch include elevated marine deposits. In a study entitledHolocene History of Sediment Deposition and Stratigraphy on the Hanalei Coastal Plain, Kauai, Hawaii, the authors write, “Fourteen radiocarbon dates from the regressive boundary in 67 gouge auger cores show a seaward progradation of the shoreline from 4800-4580 cal. year. B.P. to at least 2160-1940 cal. yr. B.P. and probably later,” adding that “the regression on the Hanalei coastal plain is best explained by sea-level fall from a middle-to late-Holocene relative [sea level] highstand predicted by geophysical models of whole Earth lithospheric deformation related to deglaciation.”[Holocene History of Sediment Deposition and Stratigraphy on the Hanalei Coastal Plain, Kauai, Hawaii (Abstract). Internet site: http://www.soest.hawaii.edu/GG/STUDENTS/calhoun/abstract.html, 3/26/2003.] During the last four millennia, Hawai‘i’s tropical rains have caused constant erosion and intermittent landslides washing the volcanic earth down from the surrounding mountains and depositing the rich soils on the valley bottoms and over the broad, open plain along Hanalei Bay. Researchers estimate that the Hanalei River has deposited an estimated 7,520,000 cubic meters of sediment on the coastal plain since it emerged from the sea hundreds of centuries ago. [Calhoun, R. Scott, and Fletcher, Charles H.Measured and predicted sediment yield from a subtropical, heavy rainfall, steep-sided river basin: Hanalei, Kauai,Hawaiian Islands. Geomorphology 30 (1999) 213-226.] Hanalei Valley’s coastal region gradually became an alluvial plain—meaning that the soils were deposited there by moving water. The Polynesians Arrive Hanalei’s human history reaches back nearly 2,000 years to when the first Polynesian settlers arrived on Hawai‘i’s shores in their double-hulled voyaging canoes.[193] Sailing over the enormous Pacific Ocean, the Polynesians were guided by the sun, stars, winds, flight patterns of birds, and other clues of nature. The ancient Polynesians were master navigators who inhabited hundreds of Pacific islands over a span of thousands of years before finally discovering the Hawaiian Islands.[194] The first human arrivals in the Islands likely occurred around A.D. 300, however the exact date of the first inhabitation remains uncertain and may be much earlier.[195] These first Polynesian settlers discovered the remote island group despite the fact that the Hawaiian Islands add up to less than 6,500 square miles of land in an ocean that covers more than 70 million square miles, nearly one-third of the Earth’s surface. After the Polynesians settled in the Hawaiian Islands, they continued to sail back and forth between Hawai‘i and the islands of southern Polynesia until around A.D. 1250 when contact with southern Polynesia ceased or significantly decreased, and the Hawaiians no longer pursued long distance, open-ocean voyages. A unique Hawaiian culture continued to develop during this extended period of isolation that lasted until British Captain James Cook arrived in the Hawaiian Islands in 1778 and established Western contact. By the time of Cook’s arrival, the Hawaiians possessed a rich and diverse culture unlike any other on Earth. The natives utilized many unique natural resources found only in the Islands, from the colorful feathers of forest birds to the durable hardwoods of native trees. Since ancient times, Hanalei has been a prime agricultural region, with fertile soils on the coastal plain and in the surrounding river valleys—and plenty of water. As an important center of food production, Hanalei was likely a bountiful “bread basket” for the entire island of Kaua‘i.[196] The Development of a Unique Hawaiian Culture The ancient Hawaiians were a self-sufficient and productive people with all the components of a highly developed culture. They farmed the land and fished the sea, utilizing hundreds of native species for food, shelter, and tools as well as for medicinal, spiritual, and ceremonial uses. The early Polynesians settlers of the Hawaiian Islands brought with them on their voyaging canoes several animal species and more than two dozen species of plants, and all of these Polynesian-introduced species had important uses in Hawaiian culture (see Appendix I). Animal species brought to the Hawaiian Islands by the Polynesians included ‘īlio (dogs), moa (chickens), and pua‘a (pigs) that were often cooked in an imu (underground earthen oven) as an important part of the lū‘au (traditional Hawaiian feast). One particularly useful plant the Polynesians brought to the Hawaiian Islands was wauke (paper mulberry tree),which provided fibers for making kapa (tapa) barkcloth. Kapa was used to make various clothing items that were colored and scented with dyes and fragrances derived from native and Polynesian-introduced plants. Polynesians produced the finest kapa barkcloth known in ancient times, and the finest Polynesian barkcloth was produced by the Hawaiians, in part because they used a unique fermentation process and a second beating of the kapa that made the cloth smooth and free of defects. Decorations on the Hawaiian kapa included intricate geometric designs found nowhere else in Polynesia. [Illustration/Photo: Kapa barkcloth] The Polynesian settlers also brought ipu (bottle gourds), which were used to make containers and musical instruments that accompanied hula. The oily nuts of the Polynesian-introduced kukui (candlenut tree) provided a source of light and were also strung into garlands called lei. The wood of kukui was carved into many useful items such as the small canoes that were used in nearshore waters. One of the most important plants the early Polynesian settlers brought with them was kalo (taro). They ate the plant’s heart-shaped lū‘au (leaves) and mashed the underground corm into poi, a staple food of Hawaiians from ancient times and still today. Taro was cultivated in the river valleys, on terraced hillsides, and all along Hanalei’s coastal plains in large, irrigated ponds called lo‘i kalo (taro patches). Various birds were hunted for food, including ‘a‘o (Newell’s shearwaters), ‘ua‘u (petrels), and ‘ua‘u kani (wedge-tailed shearwaters). Also captured and eaten were large flightless geese such as the moa nalo, a now-extinct bird notable for its tortoise-like jaws. Some bird species, such as the prized ‘ō‘ō and mamo, were valued for their colorful feathers that were woven into ‘ahu ‘ula (royal capes and cloaks) and mahiole (feather-crested helmets). Feathers from both the koa‘e ‘ula (red-tailed tropicbird) and koa‘e kea (white-tailed tropicbird) were utilized to make royal feather standards called kāhili, symbols of chiefly rank consisting of feather clusters attached to long poles. [Illustration: Kāhili] Ancient Hawaiians used no written language aside from the ki‘i pōhaku (petroglyphs) they etched into stones. Remnants of Hanalei’s earliest human history include ancient heiau (sacred places of worship), loko ‘ia (fishponds), and ‘auwai (agricultural irrigation ditches). Other archeological artifacts from ancient times include pōhaku ku‘i ‘ai (stone poi pounders), as well as ko‘i (stone adzes) used for wood carving. Also preserved in various forms are the ancient stories and legends, and the sacred chants that have been passed down through the generations. After Western contact, a written Hawaiian language was developed by the Protestant missionaries, and many interviews were conducted with Hawaiian elders. Even as the native population was being severely reduced by foreign diseases, information about many aspects of ancient Hawaiian culture was being recorded and preserved for posterity. A written Hawaiian language did not exist when Captain Cook and his crew first arrived in Hawai‘i in 1778. Soon after Western contact a written language was configured and then gradually refined, and numerous historical accounts began to be written in the Hawaiian language. Particularly notable was the voluminous amount of research done by students of Maui’s Lahainaluna Seminary, which was founded in 1831 by American Protestant missionaries as a seminary of advanced education for young Hawaiian men. Lahainaluna’s history teacher, Reverend Sheldon Dibble (1809-1845), had his students collect oral histories from their own elders and other native Hawaiians, resulting in the gathering of a great deal of information about Hawai‘i’s pre-contact past. In 1838, Dibble published Ka Moolele Hawaii, a history of the Hawaiian Islands written in the Hawaiian language, which was translated into English a few years later and then published in the Hawaiian Spectator newspaper. In 1839, Dibble published A History and General Views of the Sandwich Islands Mission (New York: Taylor & Dodd), and then in 1843, History of the Sandwich Islands (Lahaina, Maui: Press of the Mission Seminary). Dibble’s historical reports were developed with the assistance of two prolific Lahainaluna students, David Malo (c.1793-1853) and Samuel Mānaiakalani Kamakau (1815-1876), who collected and documented many legends, genealogies and chants as well as specific details of historical events of pre-contact Hawai‘i. Malo’s and Kamakau’s extensive writings were originally published in Hawaiian language newspapers in the 1860s and 1870s. Malo’s writings were dated around 1840, but were not published in English until Nathaniel Emerson’stranslation entitled Hawaiian Antiquities (Ka Moolele Hawaii), published by the Hawaiian Gazette Company in 1903. Kamakau wrote historical articles for Hawaiian language newspapers Ke Au ‘Oko‘a and Ka Nupepa Kū‘oko‘a, producing more than 200 articles between 1866 and 1871. Samuel Mānaiakalani Kamakau was also a founding member of the Royal Hawaiian Historical Society in 1841, and served in the Legislature from 1851 until his death in 1876. Kamakau’s Ruling Chiefs of Hawai‘i (Honolulu: Kamehameha Schools Press, 1961) was translated by Mary Kawena Pūku‘i (1895-1986) and published by Kamehameha Schools Press in 1961. A second volume of Kamakau’s writings, entitled Ka Po‘e Kahiko: The People of Old (Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1964) was translated by Pūku‘i and published by Bishop Museum Press in 1964, 88 years after Kamakau passed away. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1815.) Another prominent native historian was John Papa ‘I‘i (c.1800-1870), who was a language advisor to missionary Hiram Bingham (1789-1869) and wrote articles for the newspaper Ka Nupepa Kū‘oko‘a from 1866 to 1870. John Papa ‘I‘i was appointed to the House of Nobles and Privy Council under King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli), helped draft the Hawai‘i Constitution of 1852, and was a justice on Hawai‘i’s Supreme Court from 1852 to 1864. Mary Kawena Pūku‘i’s translation of ‘I‘i’s writings is entitled Fragments of Hawaiian History, edited by Dorothy Barrère and published by Bishop Museum Press in 1959. Also written in the mid-1800s were at least six Hawaiian-language books authored by Zephyrin Kepelino (c.1830-1876), a descendant of the famous Tahitian high priest (kahuna) named Pā‘ao. According to tradition, sometime before the year A.D. 1200, Pā‘ao founded a high priest line, known as kahuna nui. Pā‘ao returned to Tahiti and brought back a chief named Pili, who ruled Hawai‘i Island and began a 700-year dynasty, siring the royal line leading to King Kamehameha I. Kepelino’s most notable work was Kepelino’s Traditions of Hawaii, published by Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum in 1932, and translated by Martha W. Beckwith (1871-1959). Names of native Hawaiians living in the Hanalei region in the 1800s may be found on various written forms, such as the Māhele records and other old documents. From January 27, 1848 to March 7, 1848, King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) instituted a new system of private property ownership known as the Great Māhele (“Māhele” means division), dividing most of Hawai‘i’s land between King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) and his chiefs, with smaller plots offered to maka‘āinana (commoners). Two years later, in 1850, foreigners were allowed to purchase land, and soon held virtually all privately owned land. (See Timeline: 1848.) Historical sources reveal the specific boundaries of ancient living and farming areas as well as the locations of important cultural sites. Some names listed in the Land Commission Awards for Hanalei included: Kalawakea, Keala Iki, Keka Uaniu, Kahio-Keahi, Kahue, Hanaimoa, Ikuwa, Ielemia, Kalalaweikeau, and Kalakala.[197] An 1893 map[198] showed the following Hawaiian names on lands near the Hanalei Bay shoreline: Koenepuu, Kiolea, Nunu, Kuheleloa, Timoheo, Papa, Makole, S. Kawainui, Kealaiki, and Kahui. Near the current Hanalei town area were Hanaino, Kahanuala, Kahilina, Kamaiwa, Kamakaulii, Kamohaiwa, Kaunahi, Kuaua, Mahuahua, Makole, Naiwi, and Wahineiki. Some Hawaiian names of people in the Hanalei region listed in the 1914 Polk-Husted Directory of Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii include: Ho, Hookano, Kaakau, Kahai, Kaheleiki, Kaiawe, Kalani, Kamoa, Kaneole, Kauhaahaa, Kaui, Kaumealani, Kelau, Keolewa, Kuapuhi, Mahanaumaikai, Mahilahila, Maka, Maluna, Pa, Pauole, Puulei, and others.[199] Taro—The Staff of Life The river valleys of northern Kaua‘i were productive taro growing regions in ancient times just as they are today. Prehistoric agricultural activity in Hanalei Valley included irrigated pondfield technology (taro patches), consisting of large ponds, usually square or rectangular in shape, separated by earthen banks and irrigated by earthen and stone irrigation ditches known as ‘auwai. Today the floodplain of the Hanalei Valley floor is again covered with taro patches, and some ancient ‘auwai are still used to irrigate the fields. Subsurface excavations have shown that taro was cultivated not only in the river valleys but also on agricultural terraces built into the hillsides above the valley floor.[200] Some of these ancient taro sites were irrigated by natural springs flowing out from the mountainsides, and dryland taro was also cultivated. The ancient Polynesians considered taro their direct ancestor and their “Staff of Life.” Legends say a taro plant grew up from the burial place of the first son of Wākea, god of the sky, who named the plant-child Hāloa-naka (“Long, trembling stem”). Wākea’s second son was a boy he named Hāloa-naka-lau-kapalili (“Long-stalk-quaking-trembling-leaf stem”), the ancestor of all Hawaiians. Offshoots of a mature taro plant are known as ‘ohā, and grow in a circle around the parent plant. The ‘ohā eventually grow into mature taro plants, which in turn produce their own circle of ‘ohā. In this way, a single taro plant may eventually produce enough offshoots to fill a taro patch. The ever-widening circle of taro plants serves as a model for the extended Hawaiian family, or ‘ohana. Taro was the most important staple food of the ancient Hawaiians, and was also used to produce a dye for kapa barkcloth, an adhesive to hold pieces of kapa barkcloth together, and a bait for ‘ōpelu fish (mackerel scad). A medicinal formulation used as a purgative was prepared by mixing the corm of taro with the sap of nuts of kukui (candlenut tree), and the sap of the taro leaf stem was applied to cuts in order to help stop bleeding and begin the healing process. E ‘ao lū‘au a kualima. Offer young taro leaves to the gods five times. Advice to one who has erred and wishes to rectify his mistake. Young taro leaves often were substituted for pigs when making an offering to the gods. To remove sickness of mind or body, one made five separate offerings of young taro leaves.[201] A pudding-like dessert known as kūlolo was made by sweetening the grated flesh and water of niu (coconut) with kō (sugarcane), blending it with the grated corm of taro, wrapping the mixture in leaves of kī (ti), and baking it in an imu (underground earthen oven).
[Photograph: Hanalei (e.g., broad view of valley, bay).] “Here nature has wrought with bold hands and on a large scale, gouging profound valleys out of massive mountains, scoring them deep with gorges and buttressing them thick with ridges, and then throwing over them a veil of tropic verdure that half reveals and half conceals and wonderfully softens, the bold hard features of the geologic. Nature has contributed the magnificent semi-circular bay with its fine beach and swimming, a succession of splendid cliffs and broad level fertile valley, bounded by mountain walls down whose sides leap numberless thread-like waterfalls which now and again lose themselves in the foliage.” J. M. Lydgate[202] [Map showing divisions of Kaua‘i’s moku, each moku labeled as follows: Moku of Kaua‘i Halele‘a; Nāpali; West Kona; East Kona; Puna; and Ko‘olau.[203] [Photograph: Halele‘a] [Photo Caption:] “Halele‘a is cooled by the Kaiāulu, the pleasant and gentle trade wind. Sometimes the Hao-Ko‘olau-o-Halele‘a, ‘Ko‘olau trade winds coming with force,’ blows, an unfriendly reminder of the power of nature.” Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories[204] The Moku (Chiefdom) of Halele‘a In ancient times, each Hawaiian Island was divided into numerous moku, or chiefdoms. Each chiefdom was under the control of an ali‘i ‘ai moku (high chief). Most of Kaua‘i’s north shore, including Hanalei, fell within the moku known as Halele‘a, which means “Joyful house,”[205] or “House of happiness.”[206] At sea level, Halele‘a is bordered on the east by the moku of Ko‘olau, and on the west by the moku of Nāpali. In the higher mountain regions, the Makaleha mountain range forms a natural border between Halele‘a and the moku of Puna. Each moku (chiefdom) is divided into many ahupua‘a, the natural watershed land divisions that extend from the mountains to the sea, including the offshore coral reefs. Within the moku of Halele‘a are nine ahupua‘a. In order from east to west, the nine ahupua‘a of Halele‘a are: Kalihiwai, Kalihikai, Hanalei, Wai‘oli, Waipā, Waikoko, Lumaha‘i, Wainiha, and Hā‘ena. Hawaiians maintained a system of communal subsistence based on the natural boundaries of the ahupua‘a, which contained all of the resources necessary for survival. It was a tradition that “the farmer gave to the fisherman, the fisherman to the farmer,” as conveyed in the saying, “O kau aku, o ka ia la mai, pelā ka nohona o ka ‘ohana,” “From you and from him—so lived the family.”[207] Each of the nine ahupua‘a of Halele‘a were traditionally under the control of a konohiki, the headman of the land division under the chief. Hanalei is one of Halele‘a’s largest ahupua‘a, encompassing Hanalei River’s vast watershed that extends from the highest reaches of Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale to the ocean at Hanalei Bay. Ancient Hawaiians lived within a fairly rigid caste structure, including ali‘i (royalty), kāhuna (priests and experts in a given profession), maka‘āinana (commoners, who were mostly farmers), and the kauā (or kauwā) class, who were the lowest outcast members. A system of kānāwai (laws) determined if something was kapu (sacred or forbidden), and commoners fell prostrate to the ground in the presence of chiefs, who possessed mana (divine power). [Sidebar: Map—Ahupua‘a of Halele‘a] [Photo Caption:] Ahupua‘a in the Moku (Chiefdom) of Halele‘a (Note: A moku is chiefdom or district.)[208] [Names labeling map as follows:] Kalihiwai—“The Stream Edge”[209] Kalihikai—“The Ocean Edge,”[210] or “The Sea Beach”[211] Hanalei—“Crescent Bay,”[212] or “Lei Valley”[213] Wai‘oli—“Joyful Water”[214] of “Singing Water”[215] Waipa—“Touched Water”[216] or “Walled Off Water”[217] Waikoko—“Blood Water”[218] or “Rainbow Tinted Mist”[219] Lumaha‘i—No translation; possibly medicinal plant or string figure technique[220] Wainiha—“Unfriendly Water”****[221]**** or Hostile waters”[222] Hā‘ena—“Red Hot”[223] [End Sidebar] Many of the early Polynesian settlers of the Hanalei region built their homes near the shore, where the climate was warmer and drier than inland at the base of the mountains or up in the valleys. They traveled from the shoreline into the valleys during the day to farm taro, and then returned at night to their settlements near the sea. Groups of thatched homes formed small villages, mostly near the water but also inland, scattered throughout the valleys and on the hillsides, particularly above the taro patches. Homes were thatched with pili (twisted beardgrass), fronds of niu (coconut palm), or lau hala (leaves of hala). [Photograph: Hanalei (e.g., broad view of valley, bay).] “[Hanalei] was a region of many rivers and heavy rainfall, its great dark mountains crowding close to the sea. Both rivers and ocean furnished good fishing. Most of the numerous thatched houses were clustered makai, near the sea in the curve of the great bay, where less rain fell and yet where there was a luxuriant growth of bananas, breadfruit, sugar cane, sweet potatoes, yams, squashes and pia, or arrowroot.” Koamalu[224] [Photograph: Halele‘a (wide-angle photo, showing taro fields)] [Photo Caption:] The Halele‘a district is known for its abundant rainfall and warm climate, and has historically supported a sizeable substantial human population. For many centuries before Western contact, the fertile river valleys of the Hanalei region produced large quantities of taro just as the mountains and sea supplied a whole variety of other foods and useful products. The Mountains of Hanalei The coastal plain of Hanalei includes sections of four separate ahupua‘a—Hanalei, Wai‘oli, Waipā, and Waikoko—all bordering Hanalei Bay. Towering up behind these river valleys are three monumental mountains: Hīhīmanu forming the west side of Hanalei Valley; Nāmolokama rising up behind Wai‘oli Valley; and Māmalahoa rising up to the west side of Wai‘oli. In the lower western reaches of Māmalahoa are the ahupua‘a of Waipā and Waikoko. These mountains are often lined with dozens of waterfalls that encircle Hanalei Bay and the whole coastal plain. At the very top of the ahupua‘a of Hanalei Valley is the 5,148-foot peak of Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale, more than ten miles from the sea and not visible from the shores of Hanalei Bay. Wai‘ale‘ale, means “Rippling water,” and is said to refer to the lake that sits atop the plateau at the volcano’s summit where the Hanalei River begins. Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale is located at the center of the island of Kaua‘i, and is said to be “the wettest spot on earth.” Average annual rainfall on Wai‘ale‘ale is more than 450 inches, the highest in the world. Wai‘ale‘ale’s actual rainfall may be even more than 451 inches because high winds at the summit are known to blow the rain horizontally over automated rain gauges that relay weather information via satellite. The single rainiest year on record at Wai‘ale‘ale’s summit was in 1982, when 681 inches were recorded. India’s Cherrapunji Village received 905 inches of rainfall in 1861, but only has an average annual rainfall of about 428 inches. On the Western side of Hanalei Valley are the twin peaks of Hīhīmanu, which rise to 2,487 feet and forming the border between Hanalei and Wai‘oli.[225] Hīhīmanu translates as “Beautiful,”[226] “Manta ray,”[227] or “Great ray fish.”[228] Rays are large, graceful marine creature sometimes seen in Hanalei Bay and the surrounding ocean waters, and the two peaks of Hīhīmanu are said to resemble the appearance of a ray’s fin tips poking above the water when it glides along near the ocean’s surface. According to legend, a “Ka-ua-hā‘ao, ‘gentle rain,’ fell over Hīhīmanu, so called because its showers follow one another like members of a chief’s retinue that came in procession in sections or divisions.”[229] Anyone who has seen the tradewind showers marching across the north shore mountainsides can relate to this description. [Photograph: Hanalei mountains, showing Māmalahoa, Nāmalokama, and Hīhīmanu.] “Fall after fall of shining water hastens down green, abrupt slopes and across brief shore lands to the sea held within the broad curving arms of Hanalei bay. To the south of this green valley of Waioli stand its three peaks, Namolokama at the center, flanked on the west by Mamalahoa, on the east by Hihimanu. Eastward still further, wandering in wide bends to the sea, lies the more open valley of Hanalei, largest river of all the islands and drawing its source direct from Waialeale’s summit lake. Halalea, Place of Rainbows, the district was anciently called.” Ethel Damon[230] Nāmolokama is the massive mountain rising up at the back of Wai‘oli Valley. Nāmolokama means “The interweaving bound fast,”[231] perhaps referring to the intermingling waterfalls that pour from the mountain’s summit. Nāmolokama is also interpreted to mean “Long, rock clefts.”[232] From Hanalei town, Nāmolokama’s peak is often seen only through wisps of distant fog as frequent north shore rains send torrents of water plunging from the mountain’s regal summit. According to tradition, the first rainbow came to the Hawaiian Islands when the god Kāne threw a piece of kapa (tapa) barkcloth into a pool below Nāmolokama’s precipitous waterfall. This happened after Ānuenue, the goddess of rainbows (ānuenue means “rainbow”), hid on Kaua‘i while calling to the god Kāne through her dreams. When Kāne arrived at the Wai‘oli rivermouth he met several women falsely claiming to be Ānuenue, and each woman gave him a piece of colored kapa cloth. Finally Kāne reached the pool at the base of the waterfall where he threw all the kapa pieces into the water. There the kapa pieces joined together to form the first rainbow, and it was then that Ānuenue rose up from the water.[233] Located nearer to the shoreline of Hanalei Bay is a mountain ridge called Makaihuwa‘a (“Eyes for the canoe prow”[234]). Makaihuwa‘a is said to be the site of the first “lighthouse” in the Hawaiian Islands because a platform was built half way up the mountain by Menehune so they could place large torches there to guide the fishermen back into Hanalei Bay at night.[235] Māmalahoa rises up from the floor of Wai‘oli Valley to a height of 3,745 feet (1,141 m). Some say the mountain’s name comes from Kānāwai Māmalahoe, or “Law of the Splintered Paddle.”[236] The law was declared in 1797 by King Kamehameha I to protect weak and innocent people from injustices imposed by those who were stronger and more powerful. The Law of the Splintered Paddle is considered the first law meant to protect maka‘āinana (commoners). The declaration stemmed from an event that had occurred years earlier when Kamehameha had attacked a man without provocation, and the man hit him back and fled. When he was later brought before Kamehameha to be punished, the man was instead pardoned by the monarch, who gave him land and set him free. It is perhaps more likely, however, that the name of the Hanalei mountain called Māmalahoa predates Kamehameha’s encounter with the fisherman, and instead refers to the god Kāne’s wife, also named Māmalahoa. Frederick B. Wichman notes that “the name Māmalahoa is far older by centuries than Kamehameha’s experience,” and “the attempt to equate this name with the conqueror, it seems to me, is an attempt to foist a victorious conquest upon a beaten people.” [Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu:University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998.] In ancient chants the name Māmalahoa refers to a strong ‘awa (kava) drink used for medicinal purposes. The eastern edge of Māmalahoa is a sheer cliff that drops straight down for more than 1,000 feet (305 m) and forms the boundary between the valleys of Hanalei and Wai‘oli. The two watersheds join on the broad plateau above Māmalahoa.[237] The southernmost tip of Māmalahoa forms the back of the valley of Wai‘oli, about five miles from Hanalei Bay.Above the western side of Hanalei Bay is the peak called Pu‘ukamanu (“The bird hill”), traditionally used as a vantage point to spot fish in Hanalei Bay. [Photograph: Wai‘oli] [Photo Caption:] “The scenery in this vicinity [Wai‘oli] is romantically tropical. The soil is fertile, and produces taro, sugar cane, coffee, and indigo, with fruits and vegetables in great variety. This stream, rushing down a rocky chasm, assumes every fantastic shape possible...a picture more exquisite than any we have seen on the islands.” Whitney, 1875[238] [Sidebar:] The Menehune Hanalei’s history includes an ancient race of Kauaians who were reputed to be very small but very skilled and had supernatural strength. The Menehune were said to have numbered about a half million, and they built ‘auwai (irrigation canals), heiau (sacred places of worship), roads, and dams—and they did it all at night. Menehune grew many different foods and fished the sea. Each was a master of a certain craft and had one special function they accomplished with great precision and expertise. The Menehune would set out at dark to build something completely in one night, and if they failed to complete the project it would be abandoned. There remains some mystery surrounding the exact origin of the stories about Menehune. Early Westerners seeking information about various structures on Kaua‘i may have been told that “Menehune” were responsible, referring to an old meaning of the word “manahune,” which is “common people” (common laborers), likely referring to the early Marquesan settlers of Hawai‘i. The first humans to reach Hawai‘i most likely came from the Marquesas Islands, about 2,500 miles to the southeast of Hawai‘i. The Marquesas are part of the South Pacific island group known as French Polynesia, an archipelago that includes 130 islands divided into five groups: the Gambier Islands, the Australs, the Tuamotus, the Society Islands, and the Marquesas.[239] The Marquesans may have been dominated by the later Tahitian settlers and made to perform the hardest work, including stonework. In other words, the term “Menehune” may have been a reference not to the Marquesan settlers’ small size but instead to their lower status in the social system after the arrival of the Tahitians. This may have led to a myth about a small race of people, and the myth may have been compounded over the years. This is one possible explanation of the mysterious story of the Menehune. [End Sidebar] Four Ahupua‘a of Hanalei Bay The upper portion of the ahupua‘a of Hanalei is deep but relatively narrow. The extremely mountainous terrain includes a massive gorge through which the Hanalei River descends as it makes its way down from the summit of Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale to Hanalei Bay. At lower elevations, the Hanalei River winds its way through a broad valley and flows across the Hanalei coastal plain for the last four miles of its length, then empties into the ocean on the east side of Hanalei Bay.[240] Ka ua Noelehua o Wai‘ale‘ale The Misty-lehua rain of Wai‘ale‘ale The rain of Wai‘ale‘ale that moistens the lehua blossoms there.[241] [Map showing boundaries of Hīhīmanu, ridge of Kamo‘okoleaka, Kalihikai, Kapaka.] From atop Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale, the border of the ahupua‘a of Hanalei extends past Hīhīmanu along the ridge of Kamo‘okoleaka and then across the coastal plain to the ocean.[242] A channel in the reef forms the ocean boundary between the ahupua‘a of Hanalei and Kalihikai. This boundary continues across the coastal plain to Kapaka (“The raindrop”[243]) and eventually to the summit of Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale where the ahupua‘a of Hanalei borders the ahupua‘a of Lumaha‘i. The ahupua‘a of Wai‘oli is bordered on the west by the ahupua‘a of Waipā and on the east by the ahupua‘a of Hanalei. These watersheds merge on the broad coastal plain bordering Hanalei Bay. The 3,350-acre ahupua‘a of Wai‘oli has a width of only about ½-mile on the coastal plain along Hanalei Bay, but inland the width of Wai‘oli Valley increases to about two miles wide and forms a massive amphitheater-like area that encompasses the waters of three separate streams and many smaller tributaries. The ahupua‘a of Wai‘oli culminates about five miles from the sea at the southernmost tip of Māmalahoa. Wai‘oli was probably home to a large Hawaiian population in ancient times, and may have been generally better suited for taro farming than Hanalei Valley. Taro grows best when cool river water surrounds the plants, and Wai‘oli’s gradual slope was better suited for allowing the water to flow continuously through the fields.[244] [Photograph: Ridgeline showing Pu‘ukī, Hīhīmanu] [Photo Caption:] On the eastern side of Hanalei Valley is the ahupua‘a of Wai‘oli. The boundary between Hanalei and Wai‘oli is formed by a ridgeline that begins about ½-mile inland from the sea and climbs to the peak of Pu‘ukī (“Ti plant hill”).[245]From Pu‘ukī, the ridgeline rises steeply to Hīhīmanu and then continues to climb for another 2,000 feet. The ahupua‘a of Hanalei and the ahupua‘a of Wai‘oli join atop Māmalahoa on a broad plateau. “On the opposite side to us there stretched from the sea, where it terminated in a bold headland, a lofty range of deep purple mountains, the highest part immediately before us. Fronting this were two lower ranges, the nearest of which rose abruptly from the flat, through which the river wound like a snake. A waterfall of immense height streaked like a broad ribbon the huge purple mass behind: beginning at about 1,000 feet from the summit, its course was visibly unbroken for 2,0000 feet at least, when it was lost to view. From other points, smaller cascades of equal height but more slender in width were plainly seen...no less than nineteen streams cast themselves down the huge front presented to us.” Miss Sophia Craycroft, 1861[246] [Panoramic photograph: Waipā and Waikoko.] The ahupua‘a of Waipā is located along the shoreline of Hanalei Bay just west of Hanalei town beneath the majestic 3,745-foot summit of Mt. Māmalahoa. Waipā means “Touched water,”[247] or “Request; prayer, as to gods.”[248] The name of the ahupua‘a was sometimes written as Waipa‘a, which translates to “Dammed-up water,”[249]possibly referring to the large sand bar that often builds up at the mouth of the Waipā Stream and blocks the water from flowing directly into the sea.[250] This often causes the stream to run along the beach for a ways before flowing into Hanalei Bay. Legends tell of a boy named Lauhaka who was raised by his uncle, a bird catcher in the hills of Waipā. On a steep trail, Lauhaka confronted and killed two bird catchers who were hunting protected ‘ua‘u (petrels),[251] and the bodies of the slain bird catchers fell into the river where they formed a dam that blocked the water. Since ancient times the ahupua‘a of Waipā was used by Hawaiians for growing kalo (taro) and for raising fish in loko i‘a (fishponds). It was also the site of heiau dedicated to Kāne, the god of fresh water and life, and the leading god of the four primary Hawaiian gods: Kāne, Kū, Lono and Kanaloa. Located on the western end of Hanalei Bay, the ahupua‘a of Waikoko consists mostly of low, marshy plain. Wai means “water”; koko means “blood” or “rainbow-hued.”[252] The name Waikoko has many possible origins. It translates literally as “Rainbow tinted mist,”[253] “Blood water,”[254] or “Bloody stream,”[255] possibly referring to the legend of Lauhaka mentioned above, when the blood of the slain bird catchers at Waipā flowed into the neighboring ahupua‘a of Waikoko. The name Waikoko has also been attributed to a red-colored algae said to have once grown plentifully in the Waikoko Stream before rice-growing became a prominent land use in the area.”[256] Hanalei in Ancient Times By the 13th century, perhaps much earlier, Hawaiians began cultivating taro in Hanalei Valley and on the slopes above the valley floor. A 1980 study claimed to have found evidence of agricultural activity (taro patches) from around 7thcentury, the oldest date found in the Islands, but subsequent analyses failed to replicate the results, and only 13th century dates have been confirmed. A 1980 analysis of material from subsurface excavations in Hanalei Valley found evidence of ancient pondfield agricultural activity (e.g., lo‘i kalo, or taro patches, farmed in irrigated ponds). A radiocarbon date of A.D. 660 ± 95 and a true age of A.D.610 ± 95 (A.D. 515-705) was obtained on a charcoal sample, making the site the oldest yet found in the Hawaiian Islands for such pondfield agricultural activity. Schilt, A. Rose (1980) Investigations in Specified Areas of the Hanalei Wildlife Refuge, Hanalei Valley, Kaua‘i. Ms. 101680, Department of Anthropology, Bishop Museum, Honolulu. A 1983 study was unable to replicate the early date for agricultural activity cited by Schilt, and cast doubt on Schilt’s results, concluding only that agricultural activities in Hanalei Valley took place from at least the 13th century, and noting that this later date (13th century vs. the 7th century) was more closely aligned with other research and archaeological analyses regarding prehistoric irrigated agriculture in the Hawaiian Islands and the accompanying rapid population expansion. The study utilized macrofloral and carbon analyses of subsurface excavations to date buried deposits on the alluvial river plain of Hanalei, and cited numerous previous archaeological studies and historical sources. Athens, Stephen J.Prehistoric Pondfield Agriculture in Hawai‘i: Archaeological Investigations at the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, Kaua‘i. Prepared for the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. Ms. 060283, Department of Anthropology, Bishop Museum,Honolulu, 1983. The 1995 study entitled Archaeological Investigations of Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, Hanalei, Island of Kaua‘i noted that “Due to the uncertain provenience of [Schilt’s] radiocarbon samples, this early date does not verify pondfield agriculture...the stone tools in the deposit...may evince early habitation prior to irrigated cultivation...If the early 7th century A.D. date is accepted, it may represent this initial occupation.” P. 73, Archaeological Investigations of Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, Hanalei, Island of Kaua‘i, by Lisa Shapiro, M.A., and William A. Shapiro, M.A., May, 1995. Many pre-contact agricultural sites have been located on the hillsides of Hanalei Valley, “including seven agricultural complexes...on the steep valley slopes above the major ‘auwai [irrigation ditches] in the Valley. Some of these agricultural sites were probably for dryland cultivations, while others may have been irrigated by springs.” [p. 2, Pre-Contact Hanalei. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990; p. 70, Archaeological Investigations of Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, Hanalei, Island of Kaua‘i, by Lisa Shapiro, M.A., and William A. Shapiro, M.A., May, 1995. Also located in Hanalei Valley were many living sites as well as heiau (sacred places of worship). The rich bottom lands of Hanalei Valley, irrigated by the Hanalei River, were eventually filled with hundreds of taro patches stretching from the sea up into the valley and on the surrounding hillsides. A 1987 study, titled The Prospect from This Hill: The Hanalei Cultural Landscape Survey, Report of Findings and Significance, identified three major irrigation systems and 396 lo‘i kalo (taro patches) in Hanalei Valley. The study area included approximately 2,200 acres, including the current site of the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge. Also identified were 81 historic structures. [p. 7, Archaeological Investigations of Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, Hanalei, Island of Kaua‘i, by Lisa Shapiro, M.A., and William A. Shapiro, M.A., May, 1995.] An extensive irrigation system was developed on the valley floor for the cultivation of taro. Despite the potential importance of Hanalei Valley as a center of food production in ancient Hawai‘i, relatively little archaeological investigation has been completed on sites within Hanalei Valley, though many potentially significant sites have been found. By 1990 at least 20 archaeological sites were located, including habitation sites, stone walls, agricultural areas, and heiau (sacred places of worship). The 1995 study conducted an intensive survey of 527 acres on the valley floor and surrounding slopes, recording 43 archaeological sites on 915 acres within the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge. The study was completed in May of 1995, based upon five weeks of fieldwork that took place between July 19, 1993 and August 20, 1993, concluding that “evidence indicates that the bottomland has continually been dominated through time by irrigated agricultural systems for the cultivation of taro.” Twelve of the archaeological sites identified by the 1995 study were newly discovered, and 29 are thought to date to the prehistoric period. These documented sites are all located on land that is now part of the National Wildlife Refuge, and include heiau (sacred places of worship), lo‘i kalo (taro patches), ‘auwai (irrigation ditches), rock walls, terraces, habitation sites, tool manufacturing sites, and a pit thought to have been used as an imu (underground earthen oven) where pua‘a (Sus scrofa, pig) and other food was cooked. Many farmers of Hanalei lived near the coast and traveled daily to their inland farms, while others lived in the valley and on the surrounding hillsides. Living sites and stone enclosures were often located above and overlooking agricultural terraces.[257] “According to old residents,” wrote Ethel Damon in 1931, “the natives would go into the valleys to mahiai [mahi ‘ai], or farm, during the day, and return at night to their homes on the beach. Remains of these terraced taro-lands are still to be found far up in the valleys where no one now lives.”[258] In addition to ‘auwai (irrigation ditches) in Hanalei Valley, there were stone walls, tool manufacturing sites, and imu (underground earthen ovens). Ancient construction methods documented at the archaeological sites include rock-lined terraces that incorporated flaked and modified basalt. Set into one rock alignment was a basalt adze blank, a tool traditionally used for wood carving and tool making.[259] An agricultural site discovered on a southwest hillside of Hanalei Valley revealed “a large complex of platforms, enclosures, waterworn rocks and upright stones that incorporated both agricultural and habitational features.” To the east, researchers discovered “an upright stone and platform feature...suggesting a religious aspect to this large agricultural and occupational site.”[260] Concentrations of cultural artifacts were also located at two nearby sites along the irrigation channel known asKuna Ditch, which runs north to south on the eastern edge of the valley. The other primary irrigation canal of HanaleiValley is the China Ditch, running south to north along the western margin of the lower portion of the Hanalei Valley. An extensive network of smaller ditches connects to these two primary ditches, forming a complex irrigation system designed to bring water to the many taro patches on the alluvial floodplain of the Hanalei River. The China Ditch is cut about six feet deep into the hillside slope, and is almost three miles long with an intake on the west side of the Hanalei River.[261] An earthen berm reinforces the downslope side of the ditch, whose path crosses several small streams that in turn contribute to the water flow. Today only parts of the China Ditch remain, and much of the watercourse has been abandoned and is overgrown.[262] In the post-contact era, new irrigation channels were built along the former course of the China Ditch. An unmodified section of the China Ditch, cut into the hillside for about 1/3 mile through the southwest portion of the Refuge now lies abandoned. On the north side of the overgrown former ditch a newer channel runs a parallel course. An underground pipe supplies water to the newer section of canal, bringing water from a newly built concrete intake. The current China Ditch extends along the hillside for about 1¼ miles to a point near the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service buildings on ‘Ōhiki Road, where the ditch splits in two. The north fork of the China Ditch is a relatively new irrigation canal known as “Little China Ditch,” which provides water to the taro patches in the northern part of the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge. Two dam-type devices on the Hanalei River are constructed of boulders and stacked rocks and extend into the river to control the flow of water. Flow control devices such as hand-controlled wooden boards in the irrigation canals divert water into smaller ditches. Various changes to the course of the China Ditch have taken place since the pre-contact era. The Kuna Ditch is on average about seven feet wide and five feet deep,[263] running north-south for about two miles along the east side of Hanalei Valley.[264] The irrigation canal is designed to irrigate the eastern taro patches in the southern and western portions of the land that is now Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge. Some portions of the Kuna Ditch are no longer in use, including the northern section. Like the China Ditch, the Kuna Ditch is mostly an earthen channel without rock reinforcement. Several abandoned ‘auwai (irrigation channels) are located near Kuna Ditch. These channels are built primarily of stacked rock, and some are faced with concrete. A recently built intake for the Kuna Ditch was constructed near the China Ditch intake, and includes a buried pipeline.[265] Atop a hill on the eastern side of Hanalei Valley is Po‘okū Heiau, one of the largest heiau on Kaua‘i, located on the plains of Princeville near a grove of hala (screwpine) that was one of the largest hala groves in the Islands. Po‘okū means “Upright head”[266] HanaleiBay The broad, curving coastline of Hanalei Bay is about five miles long and lined with a sandy crescent of golden-sand beaches. The horseshoe-shaped bay is more than two miles across at the mouth, making it one of the largest bays in the Islands. The warm, turquoise waters of Hanalei Bay are the final destination of the streams and rivers of four ahupua‘a: Hanalei, Wai‘oli, Waipā, and Waikoko. [Photograph: Hanalei Bay showing both Pu‘upōā and Makahoa] [Photo Caption:] “The view from the anchorage has been pronounced by travelers as one of the finest in the world.” Whitney, 1875[267] The eastern point of Hanalei Bay is known as Pu‘upōā; pu‘u means “hill” or “peak,” and pōā means “robber, pirate; to rob, plunder.”[268] The western point of Hanalei Bay is Makahoa, which means “Friendly point.”[269] Ironically, Makahoa was said to be the home of an ‘ōlohe (robber) named Ka-pua‘a-pilau and his two friends who were trained in the ancient skills of lua (bone breaking). They attacked people passing by and placed the bodies in caves at the bottom of Makahoa Ridge. The robbers were finally dealt with by the konohiki (headman) of the ahupua‘a of Wainiha.[270] The first two British ships of war to visit Hanalei were the Sulphur and the Starling, which sailed into Hanalei Bay in July of 1837. According to Captain Belcher of the Sulphur, the ships “anchored in the snug bay of Hanalae, on the N.W. side of the island.”[271] The crews also completed the first official survey and charting of Hanalei Bay. The Hawaiian Islands were then known by Westerners as the Sandwich Islands, having been given that name by Captain Cook in honor of his patron, the First Lord of the Admiralty, the Earl of Sandwich. Captain Belcher recorded the name of Kaua‘i as Atooi (Taui). Hanalei farmers and ranchers supplied the crews of the Sulphur and Starling with a variety of food products. “Our object in coming hither was to embark bullocks,” wrote Belcher, “which, we were assured, were better and cheaper than at Oahu; and we were fully repaid for the trouble; we obtained noble animals.”[272] Belcher also noted that “large quantities of meat had been salted, and much butter cured...the cattle we embarked twelve, having already experienced their superiority over any I have met out of England.”[273] The ships’ crews also acquired “vegetables of the finest quality...fruits, poultry, turkeys, &c., cheap and in abundance. Water can be filled in the boats, by sending them into the river.”[274]
Part 2 Western Contact to the Great Māhele (1778—1850) [Photograph: Hanalei Valley] [Photo Caption:] “A century ago thousands of thatched huts dotted this land of rainbow and stream, of frequent rain and fertile soil. Beat of tapa mallet and poi pounder echoed abroad by day, thrum of hula drum by night.” Ethel Damon[275] British explorer Captain James Cook reached Kaua‘i in 1778 and established the first documented Western contact with the Hawaiian Islands.[276] Cook was on a voyage of discovery for England and in command of two ships, the HMS Discovery and the HMS Resolution. On January 19, 1778 Cook’s ships approached Kaua‘i’s southeast coast. Hawaiians in canoes paddled out to meet the ships, and the natives traded fish and sweet potatoes for pieces of iron and brass, which were lowered down from Cook’s ships to the Hawaiians’ canoes. The next day Cook sailed to Kaua‘i’s southwest coast and went ashore at WaimeaBay. The Hanalei region had already been inhabited by Hawaiians for more than 1,000 years by the time Cook established Western contact in 1778.[277] The arrival of Westerners in the Islands soon led to a rapid influx of foreigners and foreign influences, including alcohol and modern weapons, which brought significant changes to traditional Hawaiian culture. [Photograph/Illustration: Captain Cook; HMS Discovery; HMS Resolution] Hundreds of foreign ships came to the Hawaiian Islands in the decades after the arrival of Captain Cook. These foreign ships included explorers, fur traders, whalers, sandalwood traders, and missionaries. Beginning in the late 1800s and continuing well into the 1900s, hundreds of thousands of immigrant laborers arrived in the Hawaiian Islands to work on sugarcane plantations, and later many of them worked on rice and pineapple plantations. Diseases brought to the Hawaiian Islands by foreigners after Western contact decimated the native population. The Hawaiians had been isolated from other cultures for many centuries, and thus had little or no immunity to the many different foreign ailments brought by immigrants. Hawai‘i’s native population declined from an estimated 300,000[278] people in 1778, the time of Western contact, to about 40,000 in 1890. Measles, smallpox, Asiatic cholera, whooping cough, scarlet fever, diphtheria, influenza, bubonic plague, dysentery, and numerous other maladies took thousands upon thousands of native Hawaiian lives. The high death rate among natives from diseases undoubtedly left in its wake many empty villages and abandoned taro patches throughout the Hawaiian Islands, including the remote Hanalei region. The decline in native-farmed taro acreage dates back at least to 1791 when the sandalwood trade with China began, though Hanalei lasted longer in taro than other areas in the Islands. The influx of foreigners after Western contact increasingly altered traditional Hawaiian ways of living. Beginning in the mid-1800s, Hanalei Valley’s rich bottomlands began to be used to grow various agricultural products, including coffee, tobacco, sugarcane, and rice. By the end of the 1800s, rice farming and cattle ranching dominated the region’s landscape, while the amount of taro grown steadily diminished to the point where residents of Hanalei had to import poi from Kalalau Valley along the nearby Nāpali coastline. Kamehameha and the Treacherous Kaua‘i Channel Kaua‘i is the northernmost of the eight main Hawaiian Islands, and between Kaua‘i and its nearest neighbor, O‘ahu, is the longest and most treacherous of the between-island channels, the Ka‘ie‘iewaho Channel, also called the Kaua‘i Channel. Long after Western contact, the perilous nature of this stretch of ocean kept Hanalei relatively isolated from Western influences compared to other more populous regions of the Islands.[279] Also keeping the Hanalei region remote are the large waves that arrive on Kaua‘i’s north shore every winter. These large ocean waves make Hanalei Bay an inhospitable place for visiting ships. After Western contact with Hawai‘i was established in 1778, changes occurred rapidly throughout the Islands. At the Battle of Nu‘uanu in 1795, King Kamehameha I led an estimated 16,000 soldiers with 960 canoes and 20 armed foreign ships to victory, gaining control of all of the Hawaiian Islands except Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau. Kamehameha’s military victory furthered his attempt to establish a united Hawaiian Kingdom, which would not be complete until he gained control of Kaua‘i. Kamehameha immediately began preparations to cross the Ka‘ie‘iewaho Channel and invade Kaua‘i. Many ships have met their end in the Ka‘ie‘iewaho Channel, and those of King Kamehameha I are among them. Taking advantage of Western technology and Western support, Kamehameha built a force invincible by other Hawaiian chiefs, yet his troops were no match for the rough ocean crossing between O‘ahu and Kaua‘i. Kamehameha’s impressive invasion fleet set sail for Kaua‘i in April of 1796, leaving O‘ahu at midnight with an estimated 800 or more canoes and more than 8,000 soldiers. Much of the canoe fleet was swamped, however, when a storm over the ocean channel brought tempestuous winds and violent seas that forced Kamehameha’s warriors to turn back.[280] [Illustration (or existing sketch/painting) of invasion fleet of King Kamehameha sailing for Kaua‘i.] In 1804, King Kamehameha moved his capital from Lahaina on Maui to Honolulu on O‘ahu, and continued making plans to attack Kaua‘i. Kamehameha’s forces included 21 armed schooners, a large fleet of double-hulled canoes, 40 swivel guns, eight cannons, and an estimated 7,000 warriors. Among Kamehameha’s forces were about 50 Europeans, and most of them had muskets.[281] “Let us go and drink the water of Wailua, bathe in the water of Nāmolokama, eat the mullet that swim in Kawaimakua at Hā‘ena, wreathe ourselves with the moss of Polihale, then return to O‘ahu and dwell there.” King Kamehameha I preparing his warriors for a second attempt to invade Kaua‘i[282] The second attempt by King Kamehameha to conquer Kaua‘i failed due to an epidemic that infected thousands of native Hawaiians, including King Kamehameha. This epidemic was referred to as ka ma‘i ‘oku‘u, and is thought to have been cholera or a typhoid-like fever). Many warriors died, including the prominent chief Ke‘eaumoku Pāpa‘iaheahe. The sickness delayed for the second time Kamehameha’s attempt to conquer Kaua‘i. Undaunted, King Kamehameha renewed his efforts to mount a large-scale attack on Kaua‘i, and employed foreigners to construct an armada of sailing ships in Waikīkī. This third planned invasion never took place, however, because Kaua‘i’s King Kaumuali‘i ceded his island to King Kamehameha in 1810, and pledged his allegiance to the powerful ruler. For Kaumuali‘i’s acquiescence he was allowed to remain as Kaua‘i’s vassal ruler. The rule of King Kamehameha I over all of the Hawaiian Islands inaugurated a new age of Hawaiian monarchy and Western involvement. Kamehameha established a Western-influenced system of government, appointing a Council of Advisors, Treasurer, and a Prime Minister, as well as a governor for each island. Taxes were levied and could be paid with handicrafts or produce. King Kamehameha also instituted a fee for licensing trade and wharfage, and encouraged the sandalwood trade with foreign ships. King Kamehameha initially ruled from Kawaihae on Hawai‘i Island, then from Hilo (1796), then Lahaina (1803). In 1804 the center of government was moved to Honolulu, which had the best available port. A bustling trade with China in Hawai‘i’s native sandalwood began in 1791 when it was discovered that the fragrant wood could be sold for a high price in Canton. The sandalwood trade brought a steady stream of foreign ships to the Hawaiian Islands. Extensive groves in the mountains above Hanalei were harvested and shipped to a nearly insatiable Chinese market. The sandalwood trade had profound effects on native ways of living as the growing demand for wood led to the abandonment of taro patches and other traditional food producing activities. Commoners were ordered by chiefs to travel high into the mountains to harvest the sandalwood, which was valued by the Chinese for making fine furniture, boxes, chests, carvings, perfume, and incense. Hawaiian sandalwood was sold or traded for Western products, including large and expensive sailing vessels such as Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i (The Pride of Hawai‘i), the elegant, ocean-going yacht purchased by King Kamehameha II(Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho) in 1820 for $80,000 worth of sandalwood. Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i served as the king’s ship-of-state until it sank in Hanalei Bay in 1824. The sandalwood trade ended by 1840 because virtually all of the large, marketable trees had been logged. Few reminders of the sandalwood era remain today, though a 1960 Hanalei Valley forest fire that burned on the ridge called Kauka‘ōpua (“The horizon clouds alight,”[283]) revealed a pit the size of a ship’s hold. The pit had been dug in the ground to measure out one load of sandalwood,[284] a common practice during the sandalwood era. Hawai‘i’s whaling era began in 1819, and during the following decades whaling ships brought tens of thousands of foreigners to Hawai‘i’s shores. During the whaling industry’s heyday, Kōloa on Kaua‘i’s south side was the third biggest port in the Islands. During the 1830s, as many as 60 whaling ships were arriving each year in Kōloa. A much smaller number of ships visited Hanalei to trade for supplies and restock their provisions. The presence of whaling crews on Kaua‘i and the associated trade in Western goods brought significant influences to native ways of life in Hanalei. After the death of King Kamehameha I in 1819, his heirs introduced major changes that affected all of the Hawaiian Islands. Perhaps the most profound change was the breaking of the eating kapu that had prohibited men and women from eating together. This occurred in 1819 when King Kamehameha II ate with the dowager queens Keōpūolanikauhiakama [Keōpūolani] and Ka‘ahumanu. The breaking of the eating kapu began a process that eroded traditional Hawaiian religious beliefs and eventually led to the complete overturning of the traditional Hawaiian kapu system. It also coincided with the adoption of Christianity by the Hawaiian monarchy. Missionaries Come to Hanalei Just a few months after the breaking of the kapu, the First Company of American missionaries arrived in the Hawaiian Islands, which at the time were known as the Sandwich Islands. The missionaries sailed to Hawai‘i from Boston aboard the Thaddeus, and as soon as they reached the Islands they began to actively convert native Hawaiians to Christianity. In all, twelve companies of American missionaries arrived in the Islands between 1820 and 1840, building churches and schools, and preaching throughout the Islands. The missionaries developed a written Hawaiian language and produced millions of pages of printed documents, exerting wide-ranging influences on native ways of life. Missionaries arrived in the Hanalei region by the early 1820s, and they immediately established a significant presence. By many popular accounts, the missionaries did much good: teaching individuals to read, administering medicine, and helping the community in various ways. Some historians claim that the missionaries, like other Western influences, encouraged Hawaiians to abandon their native ways of living, devalued native beliefs, and attempted to suppress cultural traditions (e.g., hula). Others note that the Hawaiians came willingly to hear the missionaries preach, and voluntarily attended missionary schools. Some argue that the natives’ receptiveness to missionary ideas, as well as the overthrow of the eating kapu by King Kamehameha II, were both the result of earlier Western influences that had already degraded traditional forms of subsistence and led to a native population with changing physical and spiritual needs. The sandalwood trade, the whaling era, and the decimation of the Hawaiian population due to disease were already occurring when the first missionaries arrived in the Islands in 1820. All of these foreign influences led to the decline of traditional cultural practices among the native population. Whether missionaries exacerbated the tragic loss of Hawaiian people and culture, or instead helped alleviate the consequences, is a matter of debate. Likely, both are true. By the early 1830s, missionaries throughout the Hawaiian Islands were running more than 1,000 schools educating as many as 50,000 people. The First Company of American missionaries arrived in Kailua-Kona on Hawai‘i Island (the Big Island) on April 4, 1820 and began their congregational mission work. The First Company of American missionaries left Boston on theThaddeus on August 31, 1819 under the command of Andrew Blanchard, reaching the Hawaiian Islands (then known as the Sandwich Islands) on March 31, 1820 on the brig Thaddeus. Among the arriving missionaries were Samuel Ruggles (1795-1871) and Samuel Whitney (1793-1845), who then traveled to Kaua‘i aboard the Thaddeus. Ruggles and Whitney arrived at Waimea, Kaua‘i on May 3, 1820, and soon visited Hanalei region. Also arriving on Kaua‘i in 1820 on the Thaddeus was George P. (Prince) Kaumuali‘i, the son of Kaua‘i’s vassal ruler, Kaumuali‘i, who had ceded Kaua‘i to King Kamehameha I in 1810. Humehume had been sent to the United States when he was a child, reportedly to protect him from the queen, and he didn’t return to Kaua‘i until arriving on theThaddeus with Ruggles and Whitney. Joyous at his son’s return, Kaumuali‘i placed Humehume second in command and rewarded the captain of theThaddeus by giving him a valuable cargo of sandalwood that could be sold for a high price in China. The missionaries Ruggles and Whitney were welcomed by the elder Kaumuali‘i, and were given land and a residence. Ruggles and Whitney established a mission station at Waimea on Kaua‘i’s southwest shore, and were instrumental in establishing new mission stations in other areas including Hanalei. Samuel Whitney served his entire missionary career on Kaua‘i, primarily at the Waimea mission station but also traveling around the island to preach and to support other mission stations.[285] The arrival of the Protestant missionaries on Kaua‘i would lead to some of the most pervasive and far-reaching foreign influences in the early post-contact history of Hanalei. The Alexanders Establish a Mission at Wai‘oli On July 15, 1834, Reverend William Patterson Alexander and his wife Mary Ann, along with their young son William DeWitt, arrived at Kaua‘i’s Waimea Bay. William and Mary Ann had just finished serving in the Marquesas Islands, and before that William had graduated from New Jersey’s Princeton Theological Seminary. William Patterson Alexander was the son of James Alexander, a Kentucky Presbyterian elder and “one of the early settlers in the blue grass state.”[286] During William and Mary Ann’s journey to the Hawaiian Islands, their son William DeWitt was just 17 months old, and he took his first steps during the voyage. Mary Ann recalled: “William...learned to walk on the ship that brought us from Nukuhiva, and had a swinging gait.”[287] “William Patterson Alexander, a tall Kentuckian with aquiline nose and very blue eyes, had just had his twenty-ninth birthday...Mary Ann, who as a young bride three years earlier he had brought around Cape Horn from Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, was now twenty-four. She ‘was beautiful to look upon’ at this time, wrote mother Parker, one of their co-workers at the Marquesas. Mary Ann wore her hair in the curls of that day. She too had blue eyes, and perhaps she had not yet entirely lost her rosy cheeks of Harrisburg. Their seventeen months’ old baby they had named William DeWitt after Mary Ann’s pastor who had introduced them to each other and also married them.” Mary Charlotte Alexander[288] On July 19, 1834, William Alexander traveled from Waimea to Hanalei in anticipation of establishing the Wai‘oli mission station, first permanent mission station on Kaua‘i’s north shore. After this first visit to the region, he wrote: “arrived at Waioli spying out the land.”[289] Another visit was made on August 9 “to set up door frames & c.”[290] On the night of August 21, 1834 the Alexanders left Waimea in a double-hulled canoe belonging to Kaua‘i’s Governor Kaikio‘ewa. They sailed for 8½ hours along the Nāpali coast by night, arriving the next morning at the mouth of Wai‘oli Stream in Hanalei Bay. In a letter to her children, Mary Ann recalled: “We went to Waioli in a double canoe at night as the ocean was calmer. Old Kaikioewa, the Governor, sent us.”[291] On the journey from Waimea to Wai‘oli, the Alexanders were accompanied by about 75 people, including Davida Papohaku (David Stone-wall) from the church of Father Whitney at Waimea.[292] The party camped at the mouth of the Wai‘oli River in a small village that previous visiting missionaries and their followers referred to as Kalema, Bethlehem.[293] “At early dawn a canoe passing into the bay over the wave called Mano-lau touched the beach at Wai-oli, the valley of “Waters-singing-praises”—of waterfalls singing over high wooded cliffs, of streams singing along fern banks, of ‘wreath-making’ Hana-lei river singing through flowering lowlands, and of waves singing as they thrum on an ivory shore:—Waioli in Hale-lea, ‘House-of-joy.’ To Mary Ann, with perils over, it seemed like heaven.” Mary Charlotte Alexander[294] Two years earlier, in 1832, native Hawaiians at Wai‘oli had erected a pole-and-thatch meetinghouse for use by missionaries during their visits to the area. This meetinghouse is believed to have been a traditional hale pa‘ahana (work place) or hale mua (where food was prepared and eaten).[295] After Western contact the structure was likely used for Christian worship.[296] William Alexander, his wife Mary Ann, and their son William DeWitt were among the first “outsiders” to settle in the Wai‘oli area. During the following decades several different missionary families ran the church and school, and these families were some of the first Caucasian residents of the region. In anticipation of the Alexanders’ arrival, the native Hawaiians at Wai‘oli had built a 50- by 20-foot, ( 15- by 6-m) grass-thatched dwelling. This thatched mission house was located closer to the shore than the present Wai‘oli mission house. The native-built structure served as the Alexanders’ residence for about three years before a more suitable building was constructed. “Natives thronged the shore to help beach the canoe and thus have first sight of the strange white woman and child [the Alexanders] who had come from so far. And crowds accompanied the little family to the new thatched house which during preceding weeks the dwellers in this northern valley had gladly made ready for their kumu [teacher].” Ethel Damon[297] The Alexanders soon added various improvements to their native-built home. They used stalks of native ferns to partition the house into three rooms including a sitting room and dining room, both of which had lauhala (pandanus) mats on the floor, and a bedroom, which had boards on the floor, a rarity at the time. “It was a good sized house,” wrote Mary Alexander. “We made partitions of the stalks of uluhi [uluhe] ferns...for 3 rooms—bedroom, dining room, and sitting room. Lumber was scarce in those days so we had but one room with a board floor—our bedroom. The rest of the house was covered with lauhala [pandanus] mats.”[298] Carpenter Joel P. Dedman, a neighbor of the Alexanders, helped them make improvements to their grass-covered home. Dedman also made the Alexanders’ doors, windows, and furniture including “a study table, trundle bed, two settees and a high chair.”[299] In the Alexanders’ first grass-thatched mission house dwelling at Wai‘oli, they had two more sons: James McKinney, born January 29, 1835, and Samuel Thomas, born October 29, 1836. In 1834, Dedman received a grant of land from Kaua‘i’s Governor Kaikio‘ewa for the cultivation of sugarcane. Dedman was to construct a sugar mill and the Governor was to provide the wood for the project. William Alexander wrote: “Our new neighbour Mr. Dedman is building himself a house and is about to carry on the sugar manufactory on a large scale.”[300] Dedman’s sugar mill was comprised of wooden rollers placed on end and turned by horse power. The cane was fed in from the side and crushed by the rollers, which extracted the juice. The juice was then boiled down in a whaler’s trypot. Despite his efforts, Dedman’s plan to run a sugar mill for Governor Kaikio‘ewa was soon abandoned. Western-style materials were hard to come by at the time, and the Alexanders made do with whatever materials they could acquire. Mary Ann Alexander wrote: “Glass too was very scarce then. We oiled paper and used that instead for some of our windows. We commenced housekeeping without furniture, no cooking stove, no cupboard for our dishes, only a pine dining table and a few chairs that we had brought with us from the states and an ironwood settee that a carpenter made for us, but we were content.”[301] The native-built mission house at Wai‘oli served as the Alexanders’ home for their first three years at Wai‘oli. “We lived three years in the native house,” recalled Mary Ann, “I was never happier. It was delightful to live with my doors open, and have no fear of the people around me. James and Sam were born in that house.”[302] The Alexanders also had a study built near their mission dwelling in 1834. “Dear old Father Whitney used to come and see us sometimes,” Mary Ann wrote, “There was only one white man near us till we had carpenters come to build our house. Your father needed a study, so we had a small house built...covered with lauhala [pandanus].”[303] Also in 1834, Reverend Alexander built a cookhouse that would later become part of a large mission home (the Wai‘oli Mission House). Coral limestone blocks were cut from the shallows near the mouth of nearby Waipā Stream for use in the foundation of the cookhouse as well as for the front steps and chimney. “It is a substantial native building, thatched with grass, 50 feet long and 20 feet wide,” wrote Alexander, adding “I have the frame of a cookhouse set up and hope to have it covered in the course of another week.”[304] The same year, Governor Kaikio‘ewa donated land at Wai‘oli for a school and church, and encouraged the growth of the mission station. The establishment of the church was assisted by Kaua‘i’s dowager queen, Kekaiha‘akūlou (Deborah Kapule), a Christian convert. Deborah Kapule (1798-1853) was a favorite wife of Kaua‘i’s paramount ruler, Kaumuali‘i, before his death in 1824. Samuel and Mercy Whitney came from Waimea to visit the Alexanders at Wai‘oli, sailing there in Governor Kaikio‘ewa’s double canoe. Reverend Alexander was assisted by Brother Samuel Whitney from the church at Waimea in founding the Wai‘oli Church, which was officially established on October 19, 1834 with just ten original members. Only a select few new members were admitted. “Brother Whitney assisted me in organizing a little church,” wrote Alexander.[305] About 700 people attended worship at the Wai‘oli meetinghouse on the Sabbath. The population of the Halele‘a district at this time was estimated by the missionaries to be 3,107 people.[306] Soon more than 1,000 people were attending Alexander’s mission gatherings, including 1,500 people at “a Communion”[307] attended by Reverend Whitney on January 4, 1835. Large numbers of natives came to hear William Alexander preach. “The mission center of church and school and home pitched its tent a little further mauka near the Waioli river and in the very shadow of the three mountains, Hihimanu, Namolokama and Mamalahoa, on whose precipitous sides waterfalls were almost constantly splashing out of the clouds or the deep blue of distance into the dense green of trees and ferns below. Namolokama, the middle peak, rises more than three thousand feet toward Waialeale, the center of the island, but so close did the Waioli mission houses cling to the base of the mountains that the blue ridge of Namolokama seemed to be the very summit of the island.” Koamalu[308] William Alexander also acted as a doctor in various situations, administering medicinal treatments to the natives. Mary Ann Alexander later wrote to her children: “Your father was the doctor. He gave them medicine [doses of castor oil and other drugs in bottles improvised out of joints of bamboo]. I made toast and coffee and bowls of pia [arrow root] for the patients. They wanted warm food when they were sick. The natives are naturally a kind people.”[309] Father Whitney from the Waimea mission traveled frequently to the Hanalei region to “help in the new work, beside the people from his Waimea church, who...came over to settle in Waioli and form the nucleus of the new church there.”[310] Whitney was referred to as “the precious father,” by William Alexander, who also visited the Whitneys at the Waimea mission station. When Mrs. Whitney became so ill that she “was brought to the very gate of death,” Alexander “made 6 voyages around the Pali [cliff] in a canoe, a distance of 35 or 40 miles.”[311] Alexander also wrote of the difficulty of being in such a remote location, stating that “without society & without books, the mind flags & the furniture grows rusty.”[312] During these first years when the Alexanders were among the few non-native settlers in the Hanalei region, the native Hawaiians still retained many of their traditional customs. “The people had but little foreign goods in those days,” wrote Mary Ann Alexander, “but they had cloth of their own manufacture, tapa made out of the bark of a shrub. They had learned from the first missionaries to make holokus [Mother Hubbard wrappers], and to braid hats; they still wore the pau [pā‘ū] [skirt made of a long length of bark cloth wound around the hips]. The men wore the kihe [kīhei][a tapa robe knotted over the shoulder], and the maro [malo-a loin cloth], mostly, when we first arrived at the islands.”[313] In April of 1835 at Wai‘oli, Reverend Alexander’s first task was to oversee the construction of a new pole-and-thatch meetinghouse for visiting missionaries. The new building would replace the meetinghouse that had been built by the natives in 1832, but had burned down just a few months before the arrival of the Alexanders in 1834. In 1835, Reverend Alexander wrote that, “the people here are actively engaged building a church [a grass one]. The frame is set up 90 feet by 36, & I think it will soon be covered.”[314] The new church meetinghouse was an open-sided structure thatched with lau hala, and was built on the same site as the previous meetinghouse that had burned down. The building took about three months to complete, and the finished structure measured about 90 by 40 feet. Timbers were also gathered for the construction of a new schoolhouse. In 1835, Reverend Alexander wrote: “Since the meeting house was erected, the congregation, Sabbath forenoons, has usually amounted to 800 to 1,000 and afternoons about 600—Wednesday afternoons about 400 attend.”[315] Those who attended the church meetings left a variety of contributions, including fresh chicken as well as “fish, a canoe paddle, the handle for the spade used in cultivating taro, and very rarely a piece of money. A temporary, but very real embarrassment once arose at the Waioli parsonage by heaping payments in dried fish.”[316] “Mr. Alexander had at first believed that the broad bay of Hanalei, which he called by the name of its wave, Manolau Bay, was to have a commercial future. But a towering breaker which swept the bay farther out, called after the traditional first voyager to the group, who was supposed to have landed here, the Hawaii-loa, made the harbor dangerous for shipping especially during the winter months.” Mary Charlotte Alexander[317] At the beginning of 1836, the new meetinghouse at Wai‘oli was officially dedicated, with Reverend Samuel Whitney in attendance.[318] On August 22, 1836, Reverend Alexander wrote: “I have 90 children in my school. Have established four other schools in my bounds.”[319] A census taken about this time by Wai‘oli missionaries recorded “about 160 persons living in the Waioli ahupua‘a, 650 persons living in the Hanalei ahupua‘a, and a total of 3,000 persons living in the Halelea district.”[320] In 1836, Alexander reported that “over one thousand adults out of the whole population had some knowledge of reading the Hawaiian language.”[321] This high literacy rate was in part due to the assistance of five graduates fromMaui’s Lahainaluna Seminary where many native teachers were being trained at the time. Lahainaluna Seminary was established in 1831 as Hawai‘i’s first English school, and had the goal of advancing education for young Hawaiian men while training them to become teachers and ministers. Missionary Hiram Bingham visited the Alexanders at Wai‘oli in October of 1836. Reverend Alexander wrote: “Brother Bingham and family spent the month of October with us, a visit long to be remembered, during which time our Heavenly Father placed a third son in our arms to train up for His service.”[322] The thatched home that had been built for the Alexanders at Wai‘oli in 1834 by the natives was deteriorating badly in 1835. In January of 1836, Reverend Alexander began acquiring logs of native ‘ōhi‘a lehua timber from the nearby mountains, and by November of that year the frame of a Western-style home had been erected. Samuel Whitney periodically made the journey from the other side of the island to visit the Wai‘oli mission, sometimes receiving assistance from Reverend Alexander. Bro. Whitney has just arrived here via the Pali tormented with the toothache,” wrote Alexander early in 1837, adding, “I have just pulled out the troublesome tooth, and hope he will feel better by and by.”[323] “We now hope the Lord intends to spare him with us a little longer—From the 3rd inst. up to the 17th, the day he was taken, it rained almost incessantly, none of the clothes we had washed during that period could be dried except what were dried by the fire—everything became damp, even clothes in trunks—our house leaked in many places, mats on the floor almost rotted, & I assure you we longed for a better house.” William Patterson Alexander, in a letter to Mr. Chamberlain, January 25, 1836.[324] The two-story, four-room mission house at Wai‘oli was finished in April of 1837 for a total cost of about $2,000. The house was built with a gable entrance and a front lānai on both the first and second stories. The outside of the house was originally yellow. The color was most likely chosen because “yellow ochre was the only paint available.”[325] The Wai‘oli Mission House dwelling was built about 21 feet from the cookhouse that Alexander had erected in 1834. It was a common practice at the time to build a cookhouse separate from the main house in case of fire. The cookhouse at Wai‘oli would later be connected to the main house by the addition of a dining room/pantry. The Alexander’s third and fourth children, Henry Martyn and Mary Jane (a Christmas child), were born in the new mission house, which Alexander referred to as the “zinc palace” in reference to its roofing material.[326] From 1836 to 1838, a religious revival known as the Second Great Awakening took place in the United States, boosting interest in membership in missions throughout the Hawaiian Islands. Alexander noted that there was “a general religious excitement all around Kauai,”[327] and in 1837 Alexander was teaching 120 children for five days of the week. Mrs. Alexander taught a school of girls in the subjects of “geography, arithmetic, writing, & sewing; a weekly meeting with 70 or 80 women to read the scriptures & converse on religious subjects; and a semi-monthly meeting with mothers to teach them their duty to their children and urge them to perform it.”[328] Also in 1837, Mr. and Mrs. Edward and Lois H. Johnson arrived at Wai‘oli from New Hampshire to assist the Alexanders and direct the schools of the mission station. On their way to Wai‘oli they stopped at Kalalau Valley, where Lois Johnson noted that they were “the first missionaries who have ever landed there.”[329] Lois stayed on the beach at Kalalau while, “Brother Alexander and Husband took a walk back among the inhabitants,” wrote Lois, adding that “The shore where we landed is overhung by an immense ledge of rock affording a shady resting place underneath its own overhanging summit for two or three hundred...In the meanwhile, the people assembled, being marched on to the ground in regular order by one who seemed to act as a captain and apparently felt as much pleasure and pride as a General would in marching his regiment on to the field. Brother Alexander proceeded to examine them and preach to them.”[330] [Photograph: Nāpali Coast] [Photo Caption:] “The Pali baffles all my powers of description. It indeed surpasses all that I have every seen in sublimity. It extends along the shore of the ocean for many miles and it almost seems as you sail along as if its towering peaks which seem to reach to the Heaven, sometimes appearing in broken, ragged mountains, sometimes shooting up in the form of sugar loaf, would lose their balance and overwhelm you beneath their ruins in the mighty deep. Here might the painter find scope for the boldest touch of his pencil & here the power gathers laurels for his brow.” Lois Johnson, 1837[331] When the Johnsons finally arrived in Hanalei Bay they were greeted at the shore by Hawaiians. “We arrived safely at Waioli, the place of our destination,” wrote Lois Johnson, “and were welcomed by multitudes of natives on the shore, anxious to see their new teachers. Glad was I after being tossed about for six months to set my foot upon the spot which is to be the field of our labours, and a delightful spot too in prospect; here perpetual spring smiles and the luxuriant soil spontaneously yields her increase.”[332] The Alexanders had successfully established the Wai‘oli Mission more than three years earlier, and finally in November of 1837 they were getting some help. “We are not so lonely as we were the last three years,” wrote William Alexander, adding, “we have been singularly favored in getting associates. Brother and Sister Johnson, who were part of the large reinforcement who arrived last Spring, are located with us: and we find them true yokefellows, amiable, affectionate, devoted and active.”[333] “I have just returned from an excursion to Kauhakake in Koolau where I preach every Thursday under the shade of a large kukui grove to an attentive audience of 400. It is about 10 miles distant up hill and down. I preach 5 or 6 times a week to an audience of about 1000 here at the station, give out medicine to many ‘impotent folk’—spend as much of the forenoon in my study as the sick will allow, and afternoons converse with those who come in crowds to enquire about the way to heaven. We have cheering evidence that the Holy Spirit is moving on the minds of many...The little church here now consists of 38 members.” William Patterson Alexander, in an 1837 letter to his brother James in Tennessee.[334] An 1837 report by William Patterson Alexander to the Missionary Herald of Boston stated, “The people in our vicinity are now planting cotton, with the governor’s approbation, for the purpose of raising funds to build a permanent school house and church and get a bell.”[335] Seven acres of sugarcane were also planted to raise money, although only crude methods of sugarcane juice extraction were available at the time.[336] “Our School House is framed and thatched & the carpenter waits for the bds. to finish it,” wrote Alexander on January 27, 1838, “He took the job for 100$ & is to wait until the people raise cotton to pay him. The house is 40 ft. by 24, thatched outside & to be lathed & plastered inside.”[337] In 1838, another Western style, wood-framed home was built at Wai‘oli, this one for Reverend Edward Johnson and his wife Lois. The Johnsons initially occupied a small, thatched home until the new home was constructed not far from the Alexanders. The Johnsons would occupy their new home until 1867 when Reverend Johnson passed away. Around 1890, the Johnson house was moved by rolling it on logs of ‘ōhi‘a lehua to a location east and closer to the beach, across from where Hanalei Pavilion is now located, where it came to be known as the Hanalei Hotel (see Part 3). Raising money to support the mission continued to be a challenge. “Our common schools taught by native teachers are in a languishing condition,” wrote Alexander in 1838, “This arrives mainly from the want of means to support the teachers.”[338] Alexander continued to travel around the island to preach, and also visited the neighboring island of Ni‘ihau, “then thickly populated, where he spent five days among the people in 1838.”[339] Mary Ann Alexander “was proud of the butter that she made, and she sent many calabashes of it to the sisters in Honolulu.”[340] William Alexander sent barrels of oranges to the missionaries in Honolulu, and in 1839 sent them “a barrel of corn of his own raising. As soon as he succeeds in obtaining the mill for it, he grinds corn meal.”[341] Members of the Wilkes Expedition, a United States exploring expedition, visited the Alexanders at Wai‘oli in 1840. Mrs. Alexander wrote, “We have now a scientific gentleman with us from Boston, Mr. Coultrouy Alexander, quite an interesting man. Mr. Alexander has been with him to the mountain after ferns, and has visited some caves that are near us, he has also been to the sea after shells.”[342] The commander of the expedition, Lieutenant Charles Wilkes, recalled that his group “were all much struck with the dress of the native women, its unusual neatness and becoming appearance. It seemed remarkable that so many of the them should be clothed in foreign manufacture, and that apparently of an expensive kind; but on closer examination, the dresses proved to be tapas, printed in imitation of merino shalls, ribans, & c.”[343] In 1840, William Alexander added a dining room and pantry to the Wai‘oli Mission House (built in 1837), connecting the structure to the cookhouse (built in 1834). By 1841, the Alexanders had five children: William DeWitt (8); James McKinney (6); Samuel Thomas (5); Henry Martin (2), and one daughter, Loise, who was born at the end of 1840.[344] A lease for the Wai‘oli Mission lands was signed by King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) and William Patterson Alexander in 1841. [Sidebar:] The Wai‘oli Lease “I, Kamehameha III, lease out to William P. Alexander a certain parcel of land at Waioli, Kauai. On the East of said land the river of Waioli is the boundary; on the North and the West the mountain between Waioli and Waipa is the boundary; on the South the pond called Momona is the boundary...said land is William P. Alexander’s and his heirs or his assigns, for twenty-five years, for a cattle pasture...he is to pay to Kamehameha III one-half of the cattle born on said land, female and male; and he is also to see that they are cut and branded before being delivered into the hand of Kamehameha’s man, ...and on the expiration of aforesaid term of years he is to restore the land, together with the houses and fences and all the property attached to the land to Kamehameha III or his heir, the owner of the land.” Lease signed by Kamehameha III, William Patterson Alexander, and G. P. Judd on October 12th, 1841 in Honolulu.[345] [End Sidebar] It was not without consequences that the missionaries of Wai‘oli lived so far from their United States Mainland homes and families. On November 10, 1841, Mary Ann Alexander wrote to her mother: “O how I do want to see you, my dear mother, my heart does agonize to see you...Jane tells me that you indulge the hope of seeing me yet once more in this world...Still, dear mother, much as I want to see you, I could not go home now with an easy conscience, and take my husband away from the great work he is engaged in.”[346] Two decades later Mary Ann would finally be able to visit her mother in the United States. William Alexander was not so fortunate, receiving news of his mother’s death in 1842. A storm in 1837 brought gale force winds that knocked down the pole-and-thatch meetinghouse at Wai‘oli. The structure was repaired, but plans were begun for a more substantial and durable building. Seven acres of sugar cane were planted at Wai‘oli in 1839 to raise money to build a new church as well as a schoolhouse. A horse-powered sugar mill was constructed at Wai‘oli, and after the cane juice was extracted, it was boiled in iron pots that had been obtained from a whale ship. The $413 earned was put toward the construction of the school house and church.[347] In 1840, King Kamehameha II (Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho) signed legislation establishing a public school system throughout the Kingdom of Hawai‘i. All children from the ages of four to fourteen were required to attend school. Meanwhile, plans progressed for the new church meetinghouse at Wai‘oli. In 1841, William Alexander wrote: “Our present tabernacle was overthrown by the winds last winter and is now unsafe when the wind is strong.”[348] The new Wai‘oli Church was completed in November of 1841, constructed in the Western style, timber-framed, using logs of the native ‘ōhi‘a lehua harvested from the hills rising up behind the Wai‘oli mission station. In a memoir, Reverend James M. Alexander recalled his father, William Patterson Alexander: “It was an exciting time in Waioli, when the whole population, with long ropes, with shouts and chanting, dragged the heavy timbers into place for the church, and also for a house for Mr. Alexander. Coral stone was obtained by divers from the sea, and made into lime for the masonry.”[349] In November of 1841, the new church building was completed,[350] with a main interior space of 35 by 70 feet, and plastered on the inside and outside. The church was thatched with lau hala.[351] The hipped, thatched, split-pitch roof and four-sided lānai made the structure a blend of Hawaiian traditions and American architecture.[352] The Wai‘oli Belfry was built next to the new church in the tradition of English and Colonial American missionary churches. Like the church, the Belfry also used structural beams made from ‘ōhi‘a lehua, and had a thatched exterior. [Illustration: Wai‘oli Belfry] In a letter to her mother, Mrs. Alexander describes the new Wai‘oli Church as “a frame house covered with grass. It is neatly plastered inside, and on the walls outside as we could not afford to clapboard it. As we have no pews, most of the people sit on settees of their own making, and some on the floor. The preacher has a stand with a table before him. We are obliged to adopt this plan as lumber is very expensive out here. When the house is finished the people will try and raise money to buy a bell.”[353] Funds were indeed raised to purchase a church bell, including $88 contributed by natives. The bell arrived by ship from Boston in 1843. Ethel Damon noted that the bell “seemed almost a personage of distinction in its village, its arrival at the beach greeted by the entire congregation...as a special guard of honor, certain men were appointed to raise it on a frame of poles and bear it proudly to its thatched belfry,”[354] with “the bearers and accompanying throng moving as in a royal procession.”[355] The construction of Wai‘oli Church and Wai‘oli Church Belfry were significant accomplishments in terms of architecture and construction at such an early date in the region’s history. Mary Charlotte Alexander wrote: “The greatest material achievement of the people at Waioli during Mr. and Mrs. Alexander’s nine years there had been the earning of funds and the building of their own new frame church, accomplished in 1841 after five years of united effort on the part of the whole populace.”[356] Church membership at Wai‘oli rose from 27 in 1837 to 180 in 1843,[357] when Reverend George B. Rowell arrived along with his wife Malvina. George had previously graduated from Amherst College and Andover Theological Seminary. After arriving at Wai‘oli, he took over the ministerial duties of Reverend Alexander. In 1844, students from the Wai‘oli Select School worked on the nearby coffee plantation of Charles Titcomb, earning a total of about $500. They also cultivated beans for their own use.[358] The Wai‘oli Church was re-thatched with lau hala in 1846, and shingles were installed on the roof in 1851. About ten years later, a board floor, seats, and a pulpit were installed in the church. Abner and Lucy Wilcox Between 1820 and 1848, twelve separate companies of missionaries would make the journey to Hawai‘i under the auspices of the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions (A.B.C.F.M.). These missionaries—180 Protestant men and women in all—were Congregationalists, unlike the Alexanders who were Presbyterians. Two American missionaries who figured prominently in the history of Hanalei were Abner and Lucy Wilcox. Abner Wilcox married Lucy Eliza Hart on November 23, 1836. They were both district schoolteachers in Connecticut before volunteering for missionary work. Just three weeks after being married, the newlyweds left Boston Harbor and sailed for Hawai‘i with the Eighth Company of American Protestant missionaries. The Eighth Company was the largest of the twelve missionary groups, and their journey was the fastest. The Wilcoxes, along with 30 other missionary volunteers, sailed around Cape Horn aboard the 228-ton barqueMary Frazier on a 116-day voyage. After teaching in Hilo from 1837 to 1844, Abner and Lucy Wilcox were transferred to Waialua, O‘ahu, where Abner was placed in charge of the Manual Labor Boarding School. Lucy led weekly prayer meetings for females. On July 15, 1846, the Wilcoxes boarded the schooner Emelia with their four young sons—Charles Hart, George Norton, Edward Payson, and Albert Spencer—and sailed for Kaua‘i to teach at the Wai‘oli mission station. The next day they sailed into Hanalei Bay where a large group of native Hawaiians awaited them at the landing. Also greeting the Wilcoxes were the Reverend George B. Rowell, his wife Malvina, and a small number of other Caucasian residents. On the same day the Wilcoxes arrived at Wai‘oli, they moved into the Mission House and the Rowells were transferred to the mission station at Waimea, Kaua‘i. For the next 23 years—from 1846 to 1869—Abner and Lucy Wilcox and their growing family lived in the Wai‘oli Mission House and Abner Wilcox taught at the Wai‘oli Select School for Hawaiian boys. The curriculum taught by Abner Wilcox at Wai‘oli included reading, writing, mathematics, geography, moral philosophy, and church history. He also preached on Sundays. The initial classes conducted by Abner Wilcox in the thatched schoolhouse at Wai‘oli were attended by 48 native Hawaiian boys ranging in age from 12 to 18. Classes were taught in the Hawaiian language using Hawaiian language materials. The Wai‘oli Select School sought the brightest and most promising students of the various schools on Ni‘ihau and Kaua‘i, and the finest of these students were in turn sent to the Lahainaluna Seminary on Maui. At the Wai‘oli Select School, the desks were boards placed on blocks, and the students sat on woven lau hala mats. Wai‘oli Select School students lived with local families, and some of the students worked at coffee plantations in the area. Students also worked on the school’s farm, where a variety of produce was grown. Much of this produce was sold to whaling ships that arrived in Hanalei Bay to restock their provisions. In 1846, the Hawaiian Kingdom established a Department of Education and adopted the missionary-funded common schools as public schools. At this time, the children of the Wai‘oli school grew corn, beans, potatoes, yams, and bananas on a four-acre plot. They also farmed a large patch of taro. By 1846, eight of the boys that had attended the Select School at Wai‘oli had gone on to attend Lahainaluna in Maui. Twenty other former Wai‘oli students had gone on to run common schools on Kaua‘i. The mission district schools were present in at least twelve different north shore settlements, with more than 400 children of the Halele‘a district (about one-sixth of the total population) in attendance.[359] American Joseph Gardner was placed in charge of all Government sheep and ran a small cloth factory at Wai‘oli in 1848, manufacturing cotton and woolen cloth. The cotton was grown at Wai‘oli, and Gardner’s mill had a loom and several spinning-wheels.[360] The fine woolen cloth grown in Hanalei and woven at Gardener’s mill was awarded a silver medal by the Royal Hawaiian Agricultural Society in Honolulu.[361] During an 1848 visit to Hanalei, R. C. Wyllie noted: “Woolen and cotton cloth, woolen blankets and saddle-girthing were the articles manufactured. There was a good loom that went by a spring-shuttle, and several spinning-wheels, etc.”[362] Also in 1848, Edward Johnson was ordained a preacher, and assumed the Wai‘oli Mission duties of the previous minister, Reverend Rowell. [Abner Wilcox] had 12 boys out of school Monday with measles and as many every day this week. They do not have them very bad, get back in two and three days. Our children are well. I expect every day some of them will be taken down. I dread the hooping cough.” Lucy Wilcox, 1848[363] During much of the 1800s, Kaua‘i’s only Western doctor was missionary James W. Smith, who visited the Wai‘oli region about once every month or two. Though Abner Wilcox was not a medical doctor, he did what he could to treat the various ailments afflicting native Hawaiians. For example, when smallpox struck Kaua‘i’s north shore in 1853, Abner Wilcox and Edward Johnson vaccinated many native Hawaiians and tried to isolate the disease in the region. Abner and Lucy Wilcox had four sons before arriving at Wai‘oli, and then four more sons in the twelve years following their arrival at Wai‘oli (seven of the children lived to adulthood). The children of Abner and Lucy Wilcox included: Charles Hart, George Norton, Edward Payson, Albert Spencer, Samuel Whitney, William Luther, Clarence Sheldon, and Henry Harrison. According to Charles Wilcox, there was a “belief among Waioli Hawaiians that the Wilcox boys were kolohe, a mischievous lot.”[364] Charles recounted a story about a deacon who was hit in the head by a kukui nut and was sure one of the boys must have been hiding up in the tree’s branches. George Norton Wilcox, the second oldest son, recalled that “besides the Johnsons there were not many white people at Hanalei. We always had Hawaiians around us.”[365] George was not allowed to speak Hawaiian during his childhood at the Hilo station or when they lived on O‘ahu. “In the early days,” George recalled, “we were forbidden to speak Hawaiian, and I never learned it well. Later, at Waioli, Sam and Luther were allowed to run around freely and to talk to all the Hawaiians. So they learned it better.”[366] Sam later studied Hawaiian at Punahou School on O‘ahu. Despite living thousands of miles away from their families, Abner and Lucy Wilcox were able to provide their sons with some visits to their United States Mainland relatives. Sam recalled seeing his maternal grandmother: “And that grandmother Hart! Did I ever tell you that I actually saw her when I went East as a boy? She was ninety-five years old, but so spry she could sit on a small milking stool—and so I saw her sitting one day milking a cow and smoking her corn cob pipe while she milked.”[367] “We boys used to go out early in the mornings to the cliff at Waikoko to catch...birds that fished at night...and flew back at dawn to their nests. They could not see well by daylight and we could often catch several as they flew along the cliff. We had nets on wire, like butterfly nets.” George Norton Wilcox[368] The few Caucasian residents in the region occasionally visited each other. Josephine Wundenberg King recalled: “It was one of our greatest pleasures to visit at the mission, and quite a gala day when we went to spend the day with either the Wilcox’s or the Johnson’s. Being rowed in our boat as far as Titcomb’s landing and walking the other mile when we were too big to be carried.”[369] The Wilcox boys had a pet Galapagos turtle given to young George in Hilo by a sea captain named Pitman, “from whose yard it must have wandered away.”[370] “When Captain Pitman gave George that baby turtle for his own,” recalled Samuel Wilcox, “George was the happiest little fellow alive...once we found [the turtle] way across the Waioli river...we often used to stand on his back, three or four of us, and ride across the water.”[371] Josephine Wundenberg King also enjoyed the pet turtle: “At the Wilcox’s it was our delight to have a ride with the boys, Sam and Luther, on their land turtle, and climb trees with them.”[372] The Wilcox boys had a pet dog that sometimes wandered back to its original owner. “Our Smut was just a dog, but we boys liked him,” recalled George, adding, “Old Titcomb gave him to us. Then Smut had two homes, because he would run over to Titcomb’s when he felt like it.”[373] George recalled that traveling to the other side of the island was not easy: “It was quite a ride for little fellows like me, my mother always rode side saddle.”[374] The curriculum of the Wai‘oli School in 1848 was “geography, arithmetic, elements of geometry, astronomy, first seven chapters in Bailey’s Algebra, moral philosophy, Church history, Sacred geography adn Chronology. Also Reading, penmanship, writing compositions, public speaking and a class in English.”[375] In 1849, at the age of 16, William DeWitt Alexander visited the mission home where he had lived when he was a child. “We soon descended the hill, crossed the river, & hastened home,” recalled William, “the feeling with which I gazed on the home of my early days, I cannot describe. The main features of the place were not changed. But still many changes had taken place around the station...the natives who were still living had, for the most part, moved their dwellings down to the seashore.”[376] In 1851, Abner Wilcox took his five-year-old Albert to Boston for corrective surgery on his clubfeet. During Abner’s absence, Lucy Wilcox ran the Wai‘oli Select School and tended to the many tasks required to raise her children, not always easy in such a remote area as Kaua‘i’s north shore. To make candles to light the house, Lucy “saved beef tallow from every [cow] killing.”[377] In the 1850s, the Wai‘oli Mission House and adjacent mission station pasturelands included a total of 39 acres.[378] Missionaries estimated the population of the Halele‘a district to be about 2,000 people, with about 700 included in the congregation.[379] In 1854, Reverend David Nuuhiwa was chosen as Assistant Minister, becoming the first native Hawaiian serve in such a post for the Wai‘oli Mission. The Wai‘oli Select School continued its efforts in the 1850s, but funding the school and providing the proper books continued to be a challenge for Abner Wilcox. His son Edward built an addition to the Wai‘oli Mission House in 1859-60 while on a break from attending Punahou School on O‘ahu. Edward removed the roof from the dining room/pantry area and then added a second floor bedroom. George Wilcox attended Sheffield Scientific School at Yale College from 1860 to 1862, majoring in engineering, and earning his engineering certificate. George’s first job was planting sugarcane on his parents’ land at Wai‘oli. He later worked as a luna (foreman) on the Princeville sugar plantation of R. C. Wyllie before building Grove Farm in southern Kaua‘i into a major sugarcane plantation. “Waioli flats at the mouth of the river when the tide was out...the beach was very hard at low tide, you could gallop a horse over it without leaving any marks. Well, we would make a bamboo torch. Split up dry bamboo and tie it at intervals. Then the fellow that carried it alight would run out, you had to go on the run because the crabs would run up to the light, and another boy with a pail would catch them and put them into his pail. Once a dead bat came floating along too. It had dropped into the water probably and died. So they put that into the pail too. By and by along came another bat and he put that in too. Well, pretty soon along came another—and then the game was up, because we fellows behind realized that the one ahead with the pail was just dropping the same bat overboard again and again.” George Norton Wilcox at age 91, recalling his youth at Wai‘oli.[380] In 1861, Abner Wilcox was advised by his sponsors, the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, that continued support was doubtful.[381] In 1862, Louise Johnson began the Hanalei English School, the first English school in the Halele‘a district.[382] In 1863, all mission lands in the Hawaiian Islands, including the Wai‘oli mission, were divided among Hawai‘i’s missionaries as part of their pensions. The Sandwich Islands Mission became independent, and would no longer be supported by the American Mission Board, which transferred the Sandwich Islands Mission to the Hawaiian Evangelical Association. The Wai‘oli Mission House was deeded to Abner Wilcox. A fire in 1863 burned down the Wai‘oli schoolhouse. “At about 10 o’clock in the evening of Monday the 2nd of March, the alarm of fire was given which proved to be our school house,” recalled Abner Wilcox in a Wai‘oli Select School report, adding that “the ringing of the bell at such an unseasonable hour soon aroused the inhabitants and brought together a large company. Being covered with thatch, the flames spread with great rapidity, and very little could be saved.”[383] As the flames died down, efforts were made to save whatever could be salvaged from the fire, including some of the large timbers, which were later used to start the foundation of a new schoolhouse. “A few books and slates were snatched from the flames by those who first arrived,” recalled Abner, “my writing desk escaped...with only three legs.”[384] After the flames subsided, “the pupils with the native assistant teacher arranged themselves and standing around, sang, in mournful strains, its requiem.”[385] With assistance from the Board of Education, Abner Wilcox was able to acquire materials to build a new schoolhouse with the help of his son George. “On obtaining the materials,” recalled Abner, “we commenced as soon as possible to prepare the foundation and build a house 32 by 21 feet. My second son, with a native carpenter undertook the work.”[386] In the 1860s at Wai‘oli, one of the Johnson children, Julia, taught at the Government school along with Josephine Wundenberg King, the daughter of Princeville Plantation manager Gottfried Wundenberg. “The native children were very affectionate and obliging and loved to be with us whenever we were willing to have them,” recalled Josephine, “often accompanying us on our horse back rides after school over the hills and into the valleys gathering ohia’s, poha’s and limes which grew in abundance everywhere.”[387] Josephine also wrote about a memorable journey to Līhu‘e: “The Johnsons had some very good horses, nearly all named after late American Generals. Sherman being my expecial favorite. I rode him all the way from Hanalei to Lihue once with Julia on her Hero, and Mr. McBryde as our escort, he was in a hurry to get home, so we had to make time too, to keep up with him. We made the trip in about eight hours, resting for dinner about five o’clock at Mr. Krolls in Kealia.”[388] George Wilcox recalled a time during his childhood when inclement weather brought a rare instance of hail: “Once at Waioli when I was a little fellow I was reciting my lesson to my mother, I suddenly exclaimed, ‘I feel cold.’ ‘Nonsense,’ said my mother. ‘You ain’t cold.’ But in a few minutes hail was falling, beating on the veranda and one of the native boys came in holding his two hands full of it.”[389] Reverend Johnson passed away in 1867, and the pastorate at the Wai‘oli Mission was taken over by Reverend Adamu Pali, a native Hawaiian from South Kohala on Hawai‘i Island. Abner and Lucy Wilcox made a return visit to their original home in Connecticut in 1869, their first trip home since leaving for Hawai‘i in 1836 with the Eighth Company of American Protestant missionaries. Accompanied by their youngest son Henry, Abner and Lucy crossed the United States Mainland from Californiavia the new transcontinental railroad. They dropped Henry off in California where their oldest son Charles was employed with the brother of Lucy Wilcox. “The overland journey was far harder than sailing round the Horn, and somewhere the germs of chills and fever were taken on. No luxuries such as Pullman sleepers and diners existed on this first trans-continental railroad...Abner and Lucy carried baskets of food for the week’s wearisome journey over a rough roadbed, and sat up all night on the hard seats of draughty, dusty day coaches. Hold-ups by Indians were not infrequent.” Ethel M. Damon[390] Tragically, both Abner and Lucy Wilcox contracted malarial fever and died soon after they reached their New England home. They had intended to return to Kaua‘i after their Mainland visit, but this was not to be. Edward Wilcox wrote to his brother an account of the sad events: “They were worn out with the journey. I had not thought of their being even dangerously sick...but about noon she [Lucy] was taken with chills...and about three, died. It was so unexpected. The day of the funeral Father [Abner] was looking and feeling so well that we all thought he would be over his sickness in a short time; but from Saturday evening he was worse. He died Friday Morning...we buried him by Mother...just one week between their deaths.”[391] Lucy Wilcox passed away on August 13, 1869. Abner Wilcox passed away on August 20, 1869. Abner and Lucy Wilcox left a legacy on Kaua‘i not only in their enduring mission work but also in their many sons, who would go on to leave their own legacies. George Wilcox built Grove Farm Sugar Plantation into a massive and profitable enterprise and then used his great wealth to become one of Kaua‘i’s most generous philanthropists. George was also a member of every Hawaiian legislative body from 1888 until 1898, and served as King Kalākaua’s prime minister in 1892. Albert Wilcox was a member of the House of Representatives of the Hawaiian Kingdom from 1891 to 1892, and helped to found the Samuel Mahelona Memorial Hospital at Kapa‘a with Mabel Wilcox, the daughter of Samuel and Emma Wilcox. Mabel was selected by the Territorial Board of Health as Kaua‘i’s first public health nurse in 1913, and Kaua‘i’s Territorial Board of Health Tuberculosis Nurse from 1914 to 1917. She also volunteered for duty in World War I, serving for 18 months in Belgium and France. Samuel Wilcox became Sheriff of Kaua‘i in 1872, and served in that capacity for 25 years. He was also a member of the House of Representatives in 1901-1902 and a Senator from 1903 to 1907. Elsie Wilcox along with her sister Mabel helped to found Wilcox Memorial Hospital with funding provided by the trust of their uncle George. Elsie was also Chairman of the Kaua‘i Board of Child Welfare and Commissioner of Education for twelve years, resigning to take a post as the first woman Senator in the Territorial Legislature and serving in that capacity for eight years. Russian Forts in Hanalei Western presence on Kaua‘i wasn’t confined only to sailors and missionaries. Various trading prospects were developing in the Hawaiian Islands, and several major countries began to take an interest in establishing a presence on Kaua‘i and securing future trading opportunities. When the 210-ton, three-masted Behring wrecked on the shores of Kaua‘i’s Waimea Bay early on the morning of January 31, 1815, it began a 2½-year sequence of events involving foreigners and the construction of various stone and earthen forts on Kaua‘i, including two in the Hanalei region. The Behring was under the command of Captain Bennett when it anchored at Waimea Bay with a load of sealskins (otter pelts) bound for the Russian-American Company’s headquarters at Sitka, Alaska, which at the time was the capital of Russian-America. After Bennett went ashore, southwest winds intensified rapidly and pushed the Behring onto the beach. King Kaumuali‘i, Kaua‘i’s vassal ruler who had ceded Kaua‘i to King Kamehameha I in 1810, seized the Behring’scargo and had the valuable pelts taken to his home near Makaweli in west Kaua‘i. In response, the Russian-American Company’s governor, Alexander Baranov, sent German-born Georg Anton (Egor Nikoloaevich) Schäffer[392] to theHawaiian Islands to retrieve the cargo, which was worth about 20,000 piastries. Schäffer, who was born in Germany, had previously been a surgeon in the Russian army. In 1812, he helped to build hot air balloons in Moscow to observe the movements of Napoleon’s armies. Schäffer later became a ship’s surgeon with the Russian-American Company. If Schäffer could not retrieve the cargo on Kaua‘i, he was to seek a fair amount of the native sandalwood as payment for the furs. Schäffer’s seemingly simple mission for Baranov turned into much more as he became carried away by visions of colonial Russian power and delusions of personal grandeur. In his initial adventures on the islands of Hawai‘i and O‘ahu, Schäffer angered American traders and fell out of favor with King Kamehameha’s advisors. Schäffer then traveled to Kaua‘i, and in the spring of 1816 two Russian ships, the Otkrytie and Ilmena, carrying forty Aleuts and several Russians, arrived to support Schäffer’s mission. Schäffer quickly ingratiated himself with Kaumuali‘i, who had been the last island ruler to surrender to Kamehameha’s control. Schäffer gained favor with the vassal ruler when he cured Kaumuali‘i of dropsy and then cured the fever of Kaumuali‘i’s wife. Kaumuali‘i returned to Schäffer what was left of the shipwrecked Behring’s cargo, and Schäffer soon managed to convince Kaumuali‘i that the strength of Russia could be used to throw off the rule of King Kamehameha. Such an offer, however, had not been authorized by anyone in Russia. Schäffer’s offer appealed to Kaumuali‘i, who had long been unhappy with Kamehameha’s total domination, and saw an association with Russia (Schäffer) as a chance to reclaim his own independence as ruler of Kaua‘i. Alliance with Western powers had worked for Kamehameha. Why should they not work for him? Just as Kamehameha had utilized foreigners and Western weapons, so too could he. On May 21, 1816, and without the knowledge or approval of Czar Alexander Pavlovich, Kaumuali‘i signed a document that put Kaua‘i under the protection of the Russian Empire. In return, Schäffer promised Kaumuali‘i an armed Russian warship to lead an attack on Kamehameha’s forces. Unaware that Schäffer was promising more than he could deliver, Kaumuali‘i agreed to the arrangement and was promised Russian protection as well as a ship that was to be the beginning of Kaua‘i’s naval forces. On July 1, 1816, Schäffer and Kaumuali‘i entered into a secret agreement to use Schäffer’s (purported) Russian authority to reclaim Kaua‘i from King Kamehameha I, and also to launch expeditions against other islands that Kaumuali‘i felt he had a hereditary right to rule. Kaumuali‘i had thoughts of conquering Maui, Lāna‘i, Moloka‘i, and O‘ahu, which he felt to be his right based on lineage. Schäffer designated Kaumuali‘i an officer in the Russian navy, complete with a uniform and a silver medal, and in turn asked for permanent trading posts for the Russian-American Company as well as exclusive trading rights, including rights to export sandalwood. Kaumuali‘i had previously pledged allegiance to King Kamehameha I, and thus his agreement with Schäffer was considered treasonous. Kaumuali‘i promised Schäffer half of O‘ahu as well as rights to all of the valuable sandalwood growing on O‘ahu. Schäffer was to supply ships, ammunition, and men, while Kaumuali‘i would supply 500 men as well as food and provisions for the forces. On September 12, 1816, with the assistance of Kaumuali‘i’s men and a few hundred Aleut Indians, Schäffer began building a lava-rock fort on the east bank of the Waimea River. This sacred site on Waimea Bay was formerly known as Pa‘ula‘ula o Hipo (“Red Enclosure of Hipo”). Schäffer’s fort was built in the design of a six-pointed star, and included thirty-eight cannons to protect trading vessels arriving at the important anchorage. The Russian flag was raised over Fort Elizabeth, named in honor of the consort of the Russian Emperor, Empress Elizabeth (1779-1826). For unknown reasons, Schäffer misspelled the name as “Elisabeth,” and a sign at the site still uses this spelling. The fort’s walls totaled about 1,200 feet (366 m) in length, standing up to 20 feet (6 m) high and 17 feet (5 m) wide at the base. Schäffer’s grandiose gestures were not confined to fort-building. He was also able to take possession of the shipLydia by sending the ship’s captain to the headquarters of the Russian-American Company at Sitka for a payment (which was never received). Schäffer promptly gave the Lydia to Kaumuali‘i, who in turn granted Schäffer ownership of the valley of Hanalei, which at the time included at least 30 families. Presumably Schäffer was to assume something similar to the traditional role of konohiki, or headman of the Hanalei ahupua‘a (natural watershed land division), and the accompanying land and fishing rights. With the encouragement of Kaumuali‘i, Schäffer renamed Hanalei Valley, calling it Schäfferthal (“Schäffer Valley” in German), and reputedly he also gave Russian names to some of the Hawaiians living there. A formal transfer of ownership took place on October 6, 1816, “with the Russian flag flying, a twenty-one gun salute, and toasts.”[393] Schäffer began work on two earthen fortresses in Hanalei: Fort Alexander, named after the Czar Alexander and built on the bluff above the Hanalei River near the current location of the Princeville Hotel; and Fort Barclay, named forRussian general Barclay deTooly and built nearer to Hanalei River. Meanwhile, rumors of Schäffer’s rash activities had filtered back to the czar’s court. On November 21, 1816, Lieutenant Otto von Kotzebue arrived in Hawai‘i on the Russian Navy brig Rurik. He repudiated Schäffer’s acts, informing King Kamehameha that Schäffer and Kaumuali‘i did not have the support of the Russian Emperor. Things came to a head a few weeks later when natives killed a Russian and set fire to some buildings near Fort Alexander at Hanalei. Aleuts from Russian Alaska carried water from the marsh below in an attempt to extinguish the flames.[394] In May of 1817, as part of a plot by Americans in Hawai‘i to make Kaumuali‘i think twice about his association with Russia, Kaumuali‘i was informed (wrongly) that Russia and America were at war. The implication was that by coming under Russian protection, Kaumuali‘i had declared himself an enemy of the United States—something he had not bargained for. The plan worked perfectly, and Kaumuali‘i promptly renounced the deal with Schäffer, who was quickly run out of Waimea. Schäffer then sailed to Hanalei on the Kodiak, which was leaking badly. The Hawaiians and others onshore at Hanalei had already killed two Aleuts. Schäffer fired a three-gun salute as he raised a Russian flag at Fort Alexander. This angered Hanalei’s natives, who attacked the fort and wounded an Aleut. In return, the Russians fired their six-pounder cannons. Some of Schäffer’s men left for Sitka, but Schäffer sailed for Honolulu on the unseaworthy Kodiak. The ship was taking on about two feet of water per hour and took about five days to reach Honolulu, barely making the voyage as the crew continuously pumped water from the ship. After reaching O‘ahu, Schäffer was told not to come ashore unless he wanted to surrender all his arms and be taken to Hawai‘i Island as a prisoner. Fortunately for Schäffer, the American vessel Panther just happened to arrive in O‘ahu under the command of Captain Isaiah Lewis, who had been treated medically by Schäffer a year earlier. On July 7, 1817, Lewis provided Schäffer safe passage from the Hawaiian Islands. In 1821, Schäffer emigrated to Brazil, where he purchased a title for himself. Thereafter he was known as Count von Frankenthal, and was made a nobleman by Emperor Dom Pedro I. Much of Fort Elizabeth in Waimea was dismantled in 1864, having long since been abandoned. Today a significant amount of the once formidable stone-walled structure still stands. An outline of the foundation of Fort Alexander may be seen on the lawn just above the Princeville Hotel. A small pavilion at the site provides information about the old fort. Westward of [Hanalei Valley] there is a region of mountains, slashed by deep ravines. The upper ridges are densely timbered, and many of the ohias have a circumference of twenty-five feet three feet from the ground. It was sad to turn away forever from the loveliness of Hanalei, even though by taking another route, which involved a ride of forty miles, I passed through and in view of, most entrancing picturesqueness. Indeed, for mere loveliness, I think that part of Kauai exceeds anything that I have seen. Isabella Bird Bishop, 1873[395] The Sinking of Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i—Cleopatra’s Barge The elegant royal ship Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i, originally known as Cleopatra’s Barge, was perhaps the most famous sailing vessel ever owned by the Hawaiian monarchy. Purchased by King Kamehameha II (Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho) in 1820, the ship sank in Hanalei Bay four years later. The Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i was built far from the Islands, 7,000 miles away in the harbor of Salem, Massachusetts.George Crowninshield Jr., heir to a shipping fortune, commissioned the Salem shipbuilding firm of Retire Becket to construct Cleopatra’s Barge, the first ocean-going yacht in the United States built solely for pleasure rather than commerce or war. George Crowninshield Sr. earned a sizeable fortune through privateering during the Revolutionary War and the War of 1812, and then became the head of a shipping firm called George Crowninshield and Sons. The shipping firm dissolved in 1815. Measuring 100 feet (30 m) along its deck and 83 feet (25 m) long at its waterline, Cleopatra’s Barge cost about $50,000 to build and another $50,000 to furnish. The ship had five staterooms, a large forecastle, and mahogany paneling inlaid with bird’s-eye maple and other fine woods. Known as a hermaphrodite brig, the extravagant vessel had a main mast that was square-rigged, while the fore and aft sails were rigged on the mizzen. Thousands of visitors came to see Cleopatra’s Barge as it was being built in the Salem, Massachusetts harbor. The ship’s name comes from the famous William Shakespeare play Anthony and Cleopatra in a description of how the barge appeared as it carried Cleopatra on the river of Cydnus: “The barge she sat in, like a burnish’d throne, Burn’d on the water: the poop was beaten gold; Purple the sails, and so perfumed that The winds were love-sick with them; the oars were silver, Which to the tune of flutes kept stroke, and made The water which they beat to follow faster, As amorous of their strokes. For her own person, It beggar’d all description: she did lie In her pavilion—cloth-of-gold of tissue— O’er-picturing that Venus where we see The fancy outwork nature: on each side her Stood pretty dimpled boys, like smiling Cupids, With divers-colour’d fans, whose wind did seem To glow the delicate cheeks which they did cool, And what they undid did.” [Illustration: Cleopatra’s Barge] In April of 1817, George Crowninshield Jr. journeyed on Cleopatra’s Barge to sixteen southern European and Mediterranean ports, where many thousands of visitors admired the American ship. After George Jr. passed away suddenly and unexpectedly, the ship’s expensive furnishings were auctioned off. In July of 1818, Cleopatra’s Barge was sold for $15,400. The new owners of Cleopatra’s Barge, the Boston Merchant firm of Bryant and Sturgis, used the ship to carry a coffee shipment from Rio de Janeiro, but soon realized the vessel wasn’t a suitable cargo ship. Cleopatra’s Barge was then sent to the Hawaiian Islands in the hopes that it could be traded for fragrant and valuable sandalwood (Santalum species; Hawaiian name: ‘iliahi), which could be sold for a profit in China. Cleopatra’s Barge made the voyage to Hawai‘i in 1820 under the command of Captain John Suter. The ship was then purchased by King Kamehameha II, the 24-year-old son and successor of King Kamehameha I. Kamehameha II had begun his reign in 1819, and in November of 1820 he acquired Cleopatra’s Barge for a cargo of sandalwood (8,000 piculs) worth about $80,000 in China, yielding a significant profit for the firm of Bryant and Sturgis. At the time, sandalwood was selling for about $10 per picul. After purchasing Cleopatra’s Barge, King Kamehameha II renamed the ship Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i (Pride of Hawai‘i), and used it as a royal pleasure craft, ship-of-state, merchant vessel, and for interisland travels that included transporting American missionaries. On July 21, 1821, King Kamehameha II sailed to Kaua‘i on his royal ship to meet with Kaua‘i’s vassal ruler, Kaumuali‘i. When King Kamehameha II arrived at Waimea, Kaumuali‘i pledged his allegiance to the monarch and accepted his sovereignty. Kaumuali‘i did this despite the fact that he had recently plotted with Georg Schäffer to overthrow the rule of the monarchy. King Kamehameha II then embarked on a 42-day tour of Kaua‘i, and upon the completion of his journey he invited King Kaumuali‘i to come aboard the Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i, which was again anchored in Waimea Bay. Once Kaumuali‘i was aboard, the King Kamehameha II set sail for O‘ahu, taking Kaumuali‘i as a prisoner. Later on O‘ahu the powerful kuhina nui (premier) Ka‘ahumanu, the former queen as the wife of King Kamehameha I, married the captive Kaumuali‘i to ensure the monarchy’s control over Kaua‘i. Ka‘ahumanu furthered her efforts to eliminate potential threats to her power by also marrying Keali‘iahonui, the son of Kaumuali‘i by another wife. Kaumuali‘i passed away on O‘ahu in 1824. When King Kamehameha II was away from the Islands visiting England with Queen Kamāmalu in 1824, a royal crew sailed the Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i to Kaua‘i, perhaps to investigate a possible insurrection there. It would be the ship’s last journey. On April 5, 1824, the Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i became shipwrecked at the mouth of the Wai‘oli River in Hanalei Bay, and was abandoned. The king and queen would never learn of the fate of the Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i. Queen Kamāmalu died of measles on July 8, 1824, and less than one week later King Kamehameha II also died of the disease. Ironically, the royal couple had originally intended to sail to Europe on the Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i, but a late change of plans led them to instead sail on the whale ship L’Aigle. The king died without ever receiving news that his elegant ship-of-state had met its demise on the reefs of Hanalei Bay. In a written account, missionary Hiram Bingham blamed the shipwreck of Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i on a drunken crew. Others dispute this cause, instead blaming the ship’s captain, the weather, and even the natives of Kaua‘i, who did have a potential motive since their former ruler, Kaumuali‘i, was at the time being held in Honolulu as a virtual prisoner of King Kamehameha II. A few days after the shipwreck of the Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i, a salvage attempt was witnessed by missionary Reverend Hiram Bingham. Bingham’s account states: “After the people had, with commendable activity, brought on shore from the wreck, spars, rigging, and other articles they attempted to draw up the brig itself. This furnished one of the best specimens of the physical force of the people, which I ever had opportunity to observe for more than twenty years among them—indeed the most striking which I ever saw made by unaided human muscles.”[396] Bingham tells of how the natives wove rope from the bark of the hau tree, “and with their hands without any machinery, made several thousand yards of strong rope...twelve folds of this they made into a cable. Three cables of this kind they prepared for the purpose of dragging up the wreck of the Cleopatra’s Barge on shore.”[397] Three ropes were attached to the ship’s mainmast, and the men were directed by an older man named Kiaimakani (“Wind watcher”), who “passed up and down through the different ranks...the old chieftain, with the natural tones and inflections, instructed them to grasp the ropes firmly, rise together at the signal, and leaning inland, to look and draw straight forward, without looking backwards toward the vessel.”[398] Unfortunately the ship’s main mast snapped and the huge vessel rolled back, ending the salvage efforts. A large man named Kiu was descending the ship’s mainmast as it splintered. The natives feared he had been killed, and they rushed to see what had happened. Fortunately they discovered Kiu swimming in the water on the ocean side of the wreck. “...the ancient meles of Hawaii, prayers for divine aid and means of infusing the swing of rhythm into prolonged muscular effort, old songs of an almost vanished folk disappearing before the steam-roller, as it were of civilization which would iron every folk out on the same model. Such a prayer of olden days was heard there at Hanalei, chanted by one trained in the art, to swing the waiting multitude into the rhythm of concerted action. It was an ancient and popular song, used when a tree for a canoe was to be drawn from the mountains to the shore, rehearsed with great rapidity and surprising fluency. The multitude quietly listening some six or eight minutes, at a particular turn or passage in the song indicating the order to march, rose together, and as the song continued with increasing volubility and force, slowly moved forward in silence; and all strained their huge ropes, tugging together to heave up the vessel. The brig felt their power, rolled up slowly towards the shore, upon her keel, till her side came firmly against the rock [reef], and there instantly stopped: but the immense team moved unchecked; and the mainmast broke and fell with its shrouds, being taken off by the cables drawn by unaided muscular strength. The hull instantly rolled back to her former place, and was considered irrecoverable.” Reverend Hiram Bingham, 1824[399] In the 1850s, the builders of a small vessel at Wai‘oli paid native Hawaiians to retrieve an iron gun from the wreck of the Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i. Also retrieved from the 1824 shipwreck were the oak capstan (much decayed) and the iron post upon which it revolved. In 1932, 93-year-old George Norton Wilcox recalled: “I was reading Your account of hauling on the Cleopatra’s Barge at Hanalei. It rolled back on to the reef. I wonder how it ever got over that reef into deep water inside the reef. Yes, I suppose some storm rolled it in.”[400] George also recalled diving down to the wreck: “The natives told me it was five fathoms deep there where it lay. When I was a boy some divers went searching there to find a brass cannon that was said to be on it. But it must have been taken off long before. I tried to dive with the natives, but it was so deep I had to come up, couldn’t stand the pressure. The natives brought up some bolts encrusted with coral.”[401] In 1995, researchers from the Smithsonian Institute rediscovered the shipwrecked Cleopatra’s Barge buried beneath the sands of Hanalei Bay. Many historic artifacts were recovered (see Part 5). The Kaua‘i Rebellion In 1824, after the death of Kaua‘i’s former ruler Kaumuali‘i, his son Humehume challenged the rule of King Kamehameha II (Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho) with a surprise attack on the fort at Waimea. The fort was successfully defended, and Humehume’s troops retreated to nearby Wahiawa and Hanapēpē. King Kamehameha II was away in England at the time of Humehume’s attack on the fort. The king had left kuhina nui (premier) Ka‘ahumanu in charge of the Hawaiian monarchy. In response to Humehume’s rebellion, the well-armed troops of Ka‘ahumanu’s principal counselor Kalanimoku marched on Hanapēpē and the Wahiawa plains. Kalanimoku (1768-1827) was also known as Billy Pitt, Kalanimoku was the right hand man, treasurer and principal counselor (kālaimoku) to King Kamehameha I and to later to kuhina nui (premier) Ka‘ahumanu. Kalanimoku was present at the death of Captain Cook, and took the nickname of “Billy Pitt” after William Pitt, the English Prime Minister; guardian of young Liholiho (the future King Kamehameha II). Maui’s Governor Hoapili commanded the warrior force of Ka‘ahumanu, which included about 350 soldiers from Maui and as many as 1,000 O‘ahu soldiers. On August 18, 1824, Ka‘ahumanu’s warriors marched from Waimea to Hanapēpē and then continued for about two miles up the east side of Hanapēpē Valley. Kalanimoku’s warriors easily defeated Humehume’s meager and ill-prepared forces, who were armed only with spears and relatively few muskets. An estimated 50 to 130 of Humehume’s group were killed, including women and children. It was said that many of the dead were left on the battlefield to be eaten by pigs, and thus the event became known as ‘Aipua‘a (“Pig eater”[402]). Kalanimoku further avenged Humehume’s rebellious attack on the fort by searching out and slaughtering or deporting anyone remotely connected to the failed rebellion, including many Kaua‘i chiefs. Humehume, who had fled on horseback into the mountains with his wife and child, was captured about two weeks after the initial attack on the Waimea fort. Ka‘ahumanu arrived on Kaua‘i on August 27, 1824 and soon replaced virtually all of Kaua‘i’s chiefs with chiefs from O‘ahu and Maui who were loyal to her and to King Kamehameha II.[403] Even Kaua‘i chiefs loyal to the monarchy were taken from their positions of power and replaced by O‘ahu and Maui chiefs, most of whom were relatives of King Kamehameha I. A. Keali‘iahonui, the son of the former Kaua‘i ruler Kaumuali‘i, remained in control of the ahupua‘a of Kalihikai, the only region on Kaua‘i still under the control of a Kaua‘i native, [404] Kaikio‘ewa, a cousin of King Kamehameha I, was appointed governor of Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau, replacing Governor Kanoa. Humehume remained imprisoned on O‘ahu until his death of influenza on May 3, 1826. [Photograph: Humehume] Captain Kellett—Hanalei’s Pilot of the Port One of the first Caucasians to settle in Hanalei was Englishman Captain John Kellett, who first arrived in the Islands in 1825 and came to Hanalei in 1836. Kellett served for many years as Hanalei’s Pilot of the Port (harbor pilot), overseeing the movement of ships arriving at Hanalei Bay. Kellett also kept a warehouse for produce being shipped from Hanalei.[405] Captain Kellett built what came to be known as the Kellett House on a bluff called Lanihuli overlooking the ocean near the mouth of the Hanalei River. Kellett’s home played a prominent role in the early post-contact history of Hanalei. “Mr. Kellet was the pilot at Hanalei harbor...he had a rather bent figure, was very spare, and had long white hair which hung in curly waves on his shoulders and he walked with his feet well turned out, as was the style of a man o’wars-man in those days. He had a Hawaiian wife and a family of two daughters Mary and Betty and five sons.” Josephine Wundenberg King[406] The Kellett house was often referred to as the Lanihuli home, or simply Lanihuli, the name of the area where it was built. According to legend, “when the Līhau-o-Lanihuli, ‘gentle cool rain of Lanihuli,’ blew, fishermen considered it a lucky omen and went to the river or sea.”[407] The Kellett house at Lanihuli was home to Captain Kellett’s family for many years. The home was located on the rise between the Hanalei River and the plateau, and became a gathering place for visitors. The makai (seaward) side of the large Kellett house was rented to numerous different Hanalei families during Kellett’s lifetime, including the Dudoits, Rhodes, Wundenbergs, and Princeville Plantation owner Robert Crichton Wyllie. Captain Jules Dudoit served as the first French Consul to Hawai‘i from 1837-1848. When Captain Belcher of theSulphur visited Hanalei in 1837 with Dudoit, he noted that “The Consul possesses a tract of land on which his tenant (Kellett, an Englishman) feeds cattle, makes butter, cheese, and farms to great advantage. I am certain that our men derived more nourishment from the cattle we embarked there than from any previous diet...I would therefore strongly advise ships of war to sacrifice much to secure these advantages.”[408] Captain John Kellett passed away in 1877 and was buried at Lanihuli. One of the daughters of John and Becky Kellett was named Becky, and married Captain Hatfield, who commanded Robert Crichton Wyllie’s schooner, named thePrince of Hawaii. Two children of John and Becky Kellett were Mrs. Birkmyre and Mrs. Makee, who lived in Hanalei. Another daughter of Captain Kellett, Mary, married Hiram Friedenberg, who grew up in Kōloa and later grew sugarcane in Hanalei. Children of Hiram Friedenberg included Mrs. Deverill, Mrs. Radway, and Mrs. Lindley.[409] By the early 1900s the Kellett House fell into disrepair, and soon was beyond reclamation. “On the bluff of Lanihuli, overlooking the ocean,” wrote Ethel Damon in 1931, “lived for forty years Captain Kellett, an Englishman...He built the quaint, rambling house at Lanihuli, now, alas, almost in ruins...”[410] Robert Crichton Wyllie, Minister of Foreign Affairs for the Hawaiian Kingdom and owner of the Princeville Plantation, rented half of the Kellett house for use as a summer residence and for his English-style entertainment. Wyllie often allowed visitors to stay there when he was gone, and he had a Chinese cook named Koka (also spelled Goka).[411] The daughter of the Princeville Plantation manger recalled: “Our servants were all Hawaiians with the exception of Goka a Chinese steward, who was a very superior man...and kept a store on the hill near Lanehule [Lanihuli].”[412]Koka’s younger brother, Ah Poi, came from China to run the business with him, “and they were most successful.”[413]Koka later married a part-Hawaiian, part-Caucasian woman and returned to China. “We kept no cows...in the valley, and had to buy our milk from Mr. Kellet. He sold it at a rial (12½ cents) a gallon.” Josephine Wundenberg King[414] Charles Titcomb—Silk, Coffee, Sugar, and “Emmasville” Foreigners attempting agricultural pursuits in the Islands quickly came to appreciate the fertile soils on the coastal plain of Hanalei. The ready water supply and warm climate made Hanalei the site of many agricultural endeavors in the early 1800s. Land use in the region changed from primarily taro and other traditional Hawaiian crops to a variety of new agricultural products, some of which were more successful than others. Charles Titcomb was one of Hanalei’s first foreign agricultural entrepreneurs, and perhaps the most persistent. By profession a watch-maker, Titcomb began his attempt to build an industry of silk production in 1836 with an extensive silk cocoonery in Hanalei. His silkworm operation extended along the banks of the Hanalei River, about one mile up from the ocean, on 90 acres of land leased from King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli). Captain Belcher of the Sulphur noted in 1837 that “A new house had been erected, ground fenced in, and an extensive plantation of mulberry trees were in full vigour, preparatory to the introduction of the silk-worm.”[415] Titcomb initially planted about 25 acres of mulberry trees, and by 1840 he had about 100,000 of the trees growing to provide food for an estimated 500,000 silkworms imported from China and America. The trees were of the native or black mulberry varieties, as well as species imported from the United States. Species included white, Canton, and Morus multicaulis. Titcomb raised the crossbred Chinese-American silkworm, which produced a pale yellow silk (sometimes straw to orange-colored), and the American silkworm, which produced a coarser, white silk. Titcomb was said to be the first person to export silk from the Hawaiian Islands, producing several high-quality crops that he sold for a high price to Mazatlan and Mexico City.[416] He also employed many native Hawaiians and considered the Hawaiian women “skilful in the art of reeling the delicate threads from the tiny cocoons.”[417] About 5,500 silkworm cocoons were required to produce one pound of reeled silk, with one acre of trees producing about 50 pounds of raw silk. Hawai‘i’s rich soil and warm, moist climate allowed the mulberry trees to grow extremely fast—up to one inch per day. Despite some initial success, Titcomb’s silkworm enterprise suffered numerous setbacks and he struggled to make a profit. Titcomb eventually abandoned the silkworm enterprise due to droughts, insect pests, and strong seasonal winds that stripped the trees of their leaves. A major drought affected the region in 1840, and insect pests affecting the silk enterprise included a large spider species. Another obstacle was the fact that the worms needed daily feeding but missionaries discouraged work on the Sabbath, which was traditionally a day of rest. By 1844, Titcomb had transferred his energies to the production of coffee, after “securing berries from the Kona fields of Messrs. Hall and Cummings.”[418] Titcomb’s coffee plantation put him in direct competition with his neighbors, Englishman Godfrey Rhodes and Frenchman John Bernard, who had started their own coffee plantation in Hanalei in 1842. Titcomb hired children of the nearby Select School at Wai‘oli to tend to his thousands of coffee plants growing near the Hanalei River. He provided the students with hoes and also allowed them to plant beans between the rows of coffee for their own use. The lack of a paper currency in Hawai‘i had long been a problem for Titcomb. George Norton Wilcox recalled, “Paper money? No, I don’t remember ever seeing paper money at Hanalei. Perhaps I was too young to use it. But I suppose that was what old Titcomb was always growling about, complaining that the government would not make it official coinage.”[419] Eventually, Titcomb and other early immigrant agricultural entrepreneurs procured some of the first paper currency in the Islands. The money was produced by Judge Andrews, who “engraved small currency for the settlers, Bernard, Titcomb and Kellett, of Hanalei.”[420] In 1844, the students of the Select School earned “about $500.00 in paper currency or trade for cultivating [Titcomb’s] thousands of coffee plants on the Hanalei river, after the young plants were set out.”[421] By 1846, more than 100,000 coffee trees were growing in Hanalei Valley on the coffee plantations of Titcomb and his neighbors John Bernard and Godfrey Rhodes. Titcomb’s coffee mill consisted of a mule turning a perpendicular post fitted at the top with a horizontal cog wheel that turned a flay wheel connected by bands to the milling machinery. Titcomb’s house and sheds “stood on the left hand side of the present road as one follows through the valley, about half way between the big bridge and the first group of stores.”[422] Despite initial success, coffee production in Hanalei eventually came to an end due to several factors, including the loss of laborers to the California Gold Rush in the 1840s, floods in 1847, a drought in 1851, and blight due to the white hairy louse (an aphid species). In 1855, R. C. Wyllie bought Godfrey Rhodes’ business interest in the Hanalei plantation for $8,000. The sizeable coffee plantations of both Titcomb and Wyllie soon succumbed to the various problems, and both men took to growing sugarcane.[423] By 1862, the uprooted coffee trees were being used to fuel sugar boilers. [Photographs: Titcomb, Rhodes, Wyllie] “The coffee blight has already covered the two Hanalei plantations which in the spring of 1857 we saw in full and successful culture, yielding 200,000 pounds of excellent coffee. The scores of women and children were busy picking the ripe berries and depositing their gathering at night at the overseer’s office, but now all is silent. Not a gatherer was abroad and we saw laborers bringing in coffee trees upon their shoulders, to heat the sugar boilers of Mr. Titcomb.” Reverend Samuel C. Damon Note: Damon’s account was written for the newspaper The Friend, of which he was editor, and was cited in: Korn, Alfons L. The Victorian Visitors; An Account of the Hawaiian Kingdom, 1861-1866. Honolulu: University of HawaiiPress, 1958. Entrepreneurial and determined, Titcomb began a sugar plantation and built a crude sugar mill that used four or five horses to turn the rollers. Titcomb’s mill “had no centrifugals to dry his sugar but his golden syrup was beautiful,”[424]according to Hanalei resident Josephine Wundenberg King. Desiring to boost production, Titcomb asked the captain of a whaling vessel headed south to bring him new varieties of sugarcane. The whaling ship George Washington under the command of Captain Pardon Edwards returned to Hawai‘i from Tahiti in 1854 with the sugarcane varieties requested by Titcomb, but Edwards sailed to Lahaina instead of Hanalei and Titcomb never received the samples. The new sugarcane varieties were propagated by United States Consul Chase who “planted them in his garden, where both varieties, Tahiti and Cuban, flourished.”[425] The lush growth of the new varieties attracted the attention of Hawai‘i’s sugarcane farmers, and within a few years cuttings were being widely planted. The Tahitian variety eventually came to be known as Lahaina cane, and was preferred because it grew fast and had high yields as well as a hard rind that deterred rodents and other pests.[426] In 1856, after King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani) married Emma Na‘ea Rooke, at Kawaiaha‘o Church, and then the royal newlyweds visited Kaua‘i as part of a “Royal Progress” through the Hawaiian Islands. Emma Na‘ea (Queen Emma), was the adopted daughter of Dr. Rooke, and was given the name Kalanikaumakeamano at birth, taking the name Kaleleonalani after her husband and son died. She was Hawai‘i’s queen as the wife of King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani), and was the mother of Prince Albert Edward Kauikeaouli. Queen Emma was the daughter of George Na‘ea and Fanny Kekelaokalani Young, and the granddaughter of John Young and Ka‘o‘ana‘eha (parents of Fanny Kekelaokalani Young). Queen Emma was the great granddaughter of Keli‘imaika‘i (brother of King Kamehameha I) and Kaliko‘okalani (parents of Ka‘o‘ana‘eha). Queen Emma was also the great great granddaughter of Keōua Kupuapāikalaninui and Keku‘iapoiwa II (parents of Keli‘imaika‘i). In Hanalei, the royal couple King Kamehameha IV and Queen Emma stayed at Charles Titcomb’s coffee plantation in Hanalei, and to honor the Queen, Titcomb changed the name of his plantation to “Emmasville.” On February 5, 1863, Princeville Plantation owner R. C. Wyllie paid $29,000 to purchase about 750 acres of Titcomb’s 956 acres at “Emmasville.”[427] Titcomb retained ownership of his sugar and coffee mills. Titcomb then moved to Kīlauea, “where he had already, on January 27, 1863, secured from Kamehameha 4th for $2000 the Grant to the Ahupuaa of Kilauea.”[428] Titcomb built a home in Kīlauea and lived there until he passed away in 1883, two years after the passing of his wife. The Titcombs were laid to rest in a family cemetery in back of their Kīlauea home, where their son Charles was also buried.[429] In the early 1900s, the Kīlauea home was used as the Plantation Hospital. Kaua‘i’s First Cattle Ranch Another significant foreign influence on Kaua‘i’s north shore in the early 1800s was the cattle ranch of Englishman Richard Charlton, which was later purchased and run by Captain Jules Dudoit. The ranch was founded on August 27, 1831 when Charlton, the British Consul for Hawai‘i in Honolulu, secured a 20-year lease from Kaua‘i’s Governor Kaikio‘ewa for a portion of Hanalei from the eastern side of Hanalei Valley to Kalihiwai.[430] With longhorn cattle brought from “Norte California,”[431] Charlton started one of the first cattle ranches in the Hawaiian Islands, and the first on Kaua‘i. By 1840, Charlton had about 100 head of cattle. Charlton’s fee for use of the Hanalei area land was to be paid with lumber, “560 boards,”[432] to be cut by Charlton and used by King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) to build a house. Apparently the fee was never paid by Charlton, yet he retained use of the land until the lease was purchased by Jules Dudoit in 1845. Captain Jules Dudoit served as the first French Consul to Hawai‘i from 1837-1848, during which time there was a controversy regarding Catholic priests from France in Hawai‘i, as well as significant disagreements of about the importation of alcohol. Dudoit moved to Hanalei with his family in 1848 after retiring from the consulship. From 1848 until the early 1850s, the Dudoits, including their five children (Maude, Adele, Blanche, Charles, and Jules), lived in the Kellett House. Dudoit exported butter and packed salt beef for whaling ships, and also shipped beef to Honolulu. Behind the Kellett home was an area where cattle were slaughtered. Elsie Wilcox noted that the slaughter-pens “were in the little valley back of the Lanihuli home, directly back of where Mr. Birkmyer’s house now stands.”[433] Jules Dudoit owned the brigantine John Dunlap, which often made trips across the Ka‘ie‘iewaho Channel (Kaua‘i Channel) between Kaua‘i and O‘ahu and provided one of Hanalei’s few sources of supplies from Honolulu at the time, and in turn purchasing cattle and salt beef from Hanalei. Mrs. Dudoit was the daughter of renowned explorer Peter Corney, an employee of the Hudson Bay Company and author of The Early Voyages of Peter Corney. Living with Mr. and Mrs. Dudoit in Hanalei was the wife of Peter Corney as well as three of the Corney children: Fanny, Emily, and Peter. Jules Dudoit had traveled to Hawai‘i on a ship with the Corneys, who were going on to meet their father, Peter Corney, in the Northwest. Upon learning of their father’s death, the Corney family remained in the Hawaiian Islands where one of the daughters married Jules Dudoit. When Albert Lyman of Connecticut sailed the trading schooner Samuel Roberts into Hanalei Bay in 1850 he noted, “We every day procure a bucket of the most delicious rich and new milk from the estate of Mr. Dudaver/Dudoit, on which he has about 1800 head of fine cattle. Milk is a most acceptable article on board, and a rare treat for us all.”[434] Jules Dudoit purchased a Grant to the Namahana land in the Ko‘olau district from Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) for $603 and moved there with his family.[435] In 1862, Dudoit sold his Kaua‘i property to Samuel Clark and moved to Honolulu. Jules Dudoit was murdered in 1866 while sleeping in bed. The crime was committed by Dudoit’s Chinese cook, apparently because the cook’s wages “had been docked for broken crockery.”[436] Mrs. Dudoit narrowly escaped death in the incident, but then went on to live a long life, passing away in 1903. The Great Māhele On January 27, 1848, the total control of Hawai‘i’s land by King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) ended with the institution of a new system of private property ownership known as the Great Māhele (“mahele” means division), with the king dividing the land between himself and 245 of his chiefs. Note: The term “Great” is not always used, since some people do not consider the institution of private property ownership in Hawai‘i a “Great,” event, as it eventually led to Hawaiian commoners owning less than one percent of Hawai‘i’s land. The Māhele was completed on March 7, 1848, and on the following day the remaining land was divided between the king and the government. The end result was that about 24% of Hawai‘i’s land was owned by the king (Crown lands); 37% was owned by the government; and 38% was given to the ruling ali‘i (chiefs) (it was primarily this portion of Hawai‘i’s lands that became today’s private lands, sold and traded). Maka‘āinana (commoners) were able to apply for title to lands they cultivated, referred to as kuleana, and in 1850 the Kuleana Act was passed to define their rights and authorized a Land Commission to grant land titles. The Board of Commissioners to Quiet Land Titles was usually simply called the Land Commission, and was appointed in December of 1845 by King Kamehameha II to determine land rights. In November of 1846, commoners were given the right to buy the land they cultivated in November of 1846, but the process for this to occur was not enacted into law until August of 1850. The Land Commission was dissolved in 1855. Requirements for maka‘āinana to be granted land included having the land surveyed, filing a claim with the Land Commission, and proving the land was being cultivated to earn a living Throughout the archipelago, about 11,000 maka‘āinana (commoners) were granted about 28,600 acres (11,574 ha) of land.[437] The Indices of Awards in the Māhele recorded 70 kuleana grants in Wai‘oli, 55 in Hanalei, and 19 in Kalihikai.[438] After the Great Māhele, the ahupua‘a of Hanalei was held as Crown lands by King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli). The ahupua‘a of Waipā was given to Princess Ruth Ke‘elikōlani, the great granddaughter of King Kamehameha I, and the ahupua‘a of Wai‘oli was considered government land. Princess Ruth Ke‘elikōlani (1826-1883), was the daughter of Mataio Kekūanaō‘a and Kalani Pauahi; the wife of William Pitt Leleiōhoku (I); and the mother of William Pitt Kīna‘u. Princess Ruth Ke‘elikōlani’s second husband was Isaac Young Davis. On her mother’s side, Princess Ruth was the granddaughter of Keōuwahine and Pauli Ka‘ōleiokū, and great granddaughter of King Kamehameha I and Kānekapōlei (parents of Pauli Ka‘ōleiokū). In 1850 the Legislature passed a law allowing non-Hawaiians (resident aliens) to own land in the Hawaiian Islands. By 1890, more than 75 percent of lands originally granted to chiefs was owned by non-Hawaiians. The massive loss of Hawaiian-owned lands to non-Hawaiians was exacerbated by a law passed by the Legislature in 1874 removing mortgage transactions from the courts and placing them in private hands. This resulted in huge losses of lands by natives to non-Hawaiians in the 1880s. The law apparently allowed the lender to foreclose without notice then buy the land in a rigged auction.
Part 3 Royal Visits and the Story of Princeville (1850—1900) By the mid-1800s, visits to Hanalei Bay by sandalwood traders and whalers decreased significantly, and the Hanalei region returned to relative isolation. The peak years of the sandalwood trade were from 1810 to 1840 as sandalwood forests were logged at a rapid pace to meet China’s growing market. By 1840, nearly all of Hawai‘i’s sandalwood trees of marketable size had been cut down. The whaling era began in 1819 when the Equator and the Balena became the first whaling ships to stop in the Hawaiian Islands. The peak year for whaling ship arrivals was 1846 when at least 596 whaling ships crowded Hawaiian ports, including Kōloa on Kaua‘i’s south side. Whale populations were diminishing rapidly in the 184s due to over-harvesting. In 1849 oil was discovered in Pennsylvania, and became the new source of lubricants for industry, bringing an end of the whaling industry and Hawai‘i’s whaling era. Hanalei’s increasing isolation after the sandalwood and whaling eras caused problems for anyone needing off-island products. A steamer named West Point had established a profitable trade by stopping in Hanalei Bay as it made regular trips around the Hawaiian Islands, but the untimely sinking of the ship ended its visits to Hanalei. Various crops were grown to provide products with a local demand including cotton grown at Wai‘oli in 1848 to supply a small cloth factory run by Joseph Gardner. An 1857, a Pacific Commercial Advertiser article stated: “The trade of the port [Hanalei Bay] is now very limited and is confined to a few coasting vessels, which supply the wants of the natives and the coffee plantations. Whale ships seldom visit the port now.”[439] The newspaper also mentioned Hanalei’s agricultural and cattle ranching endeavors: “The two largest coffee plantations on the islands are located here [Hanalei], producing annually 150,000 to 200,000 lbs. of coffee. In the neighborhood of the port several thousand head of cattle run wild, and in former years considerable quantities of beef were packed here, but owing to the poor and irregular facilities for sending it to market, it has been entirely broken up.”[440] Many fruits and vegetables were grown in the Hanalei region throughout the 1800s, including significant quantities of oranges, lemons, peaches, pineapples, tamarinds, mulberries, guavas, and plantains. Species introduced by the Polynesians before Western contact also continued to be grown, including mai‘a (bananas), ‘ulu (breadfruit), and niu (coconuts). Samuel Whitney Wilcox recalled that during his childhood in the mid-1800s “we did have oranges at Waioli! Right there on our own place, and hundreds of trees in the valleys. Wainiha was full of such oranges, the sweetest and juiciest I’ve ever tasted.”[441] Princess Ruth Visits Hanalei The Hawaiian monarchy paid numerous visits to Hanalei in the 1800s. King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) came in 1852. King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani) and Queen Emma came to Hanalei in 1856 and returned in 1860 with their two-year-old son, Prince Albert Kauikeaouli, inspiring Hanalei plantation owner R. C. Wyllie to name his growing estate “Princeville.” Princess Lili‘uokalani sailed into Hanalei Bay in 1881 and returned as Queen Lili‘uokalani in 1891. Princess Ruth Ke‘elikōlani arrived in Hanalei in 1867 on the U.S.S. Lackawanna, which was under the command of Captain Reynolds. Reynolds first came to Kaua‘i with the Wilkes Expedition in 1840. In 1852, Reynolds grew corn on 100 acres he leased at Malumalu. Rejoining the Union Navy in 1861, he served in the Civil War and then was given command of the Lackawanna in 1867. Also on board with Reynolds arriving at Hanalei were Reynold’s wife, Mrs. Dudoit, and Emily Corney, the wife of Hudson Bay Company employee Peter Corney who wrote The Early Voyages of Peter Corney. Princess Ruth was renowned for her appeasing of the volcano goddess Pele during the 1880 eruption of Mauna Loa Volcano on Hawai‘i Island. When the eruption threatened the town of Hilo, Princess Ruth supplicated Pele with chants and gifts, and the lava flow stopped at the edge of town. During her 1867 visit to Hanalei, Princess Ruth stayed at the Wai‘oli home of Judge Wana. Josephine Wundenberg King, who was a child at the time, recalled seeing Princess Ruth “lounging on the beach with her retainers and her two little white poodle dogs of whom she was very fond. The other ladies visited at Princeville, and John Low the manager entertained the party quite extensively, getting up a large picnic and fish or ‘Kahe’ drive on the Hanalei river near Kuna.”[442] “ The Kahe was built in the middle of the river near the rapids by a fine kukui grove where the ahaaina [‘aha‘aina] or feast was spread. When school was out Julia Johnson and I rode up the river bank to the rendezvous, and as we neared the spot where the fish were being driven down and caught, we saw [Princess] Ruth in a pink Muumuu having a bath and finally getting into the ‘Kahe’ [run of fish] and catching the mullet herself, beheading and enjoying the tid-bits that she found. When she emerged later from her dressing room in the guava bushes in her black silk holoku[443] she looked quite regal and happy as she embraced her lady friends and saluted them in the usual Hawaiian manner.” Josephine Wundenberg King[444] The Lackawanna engaged in several days of target practice in north shore waters, and invited prominent local persons aboard “to luncheon and to witness the exercises which I [Josephine] certainly did not enjoy. The reports from the guns were deafening and the smell of the powder and smoke sickening.”[445] When Princess Ruth passed away in 1883 she bequeathed to Princess Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop the ahupua‘a of Waipā. As the great granddaughter of King Kamehameha I, Princess Pauahi was the potential heir to the throne. When she passed away in 1884 Princess Pauahi left her land in perpetual trust to assist in the establishment of Kamehameha Schools. Princeville Plantation—Rhodes, Wundenberg, Wyllie, and Kikiula Today, the sprawling resort at Princeville is a major economic force on Kaua‘i. The journey from the area’s humble beginnings through its incarnations as a plantation and ranch to its present grandeur is a long and interesting one. The estate that would one day become “Princeville” began on September 8, 1842 when British subject and sea captain Godfrey Rhodes along with Frenchman John Bernard obtained a 50-year Government lease of 90 acres of land on the east side of the Hanalei River and 60 acres on the west side of the river. On this Hanalei land, Rhodes and Bernard began the first commercial coffee plantation in the Hawaiian Islands.[446] In 1843-1844, Gottfried Frederick Wundenberg and Archibald Archer leased a portion of the Bernard/Rhodes land and also grew coffee in an area on the east side of Hanalei Valley known as Kuna. Wundenberg was an agriculturalist from Hanover, Germany. Before arriving in Hanalei, Wundenberg had been the secretary of Robert Crichton Wyllie, the Minister of Foreign Affairs for the Hawaiian Kingdom. Rhodes left for Australia in 1844, selling his interest in the coffee operation to Bernard. The following year, Bernard traveled to Honolulu to deal with his financial troubles. When he left Honolulu to return to Kaua‘i on April 18, 1845, he boarded the schooner Paalua (which he had built) and sailed for Hanalei. Tragically, on April 19, 1845 thePaalua sank just a few hundred yards offshore of Hanalei, killing Bernard and several others. “She was first struck by a heavy squall and then shipped a heavy sea which carried her under. The following persons were unfortunately drowned: Captain Bernard, Mr. Popelwell, and Mr. Higginbotham with his wife and two children. All the Hawaiians succeeded in reaching the land with the exception of a boy.” The Friend, May, 1845 edition[447] On June 16, 1845, Frenchman John Bernard’s estate in Hanalei was bought by John K. Von Pfister and Godfrey Rhodes. Rhodes had just returned from Sydney, Australia, and for a time he was in charge of the bark Clementine owned by Jules Dudoit, who became the French consul in Honolulu. Rhodes made numerous voyages to South America and the Northwest Coast, and many Hawaiians referred to him affectionately as Kapena Loke (“Captain Rose”).[448] Rhodes and Von Pfister’s Hanalei estate became known as the Rhodes & Company Coffee Plantation. Rhodes built a home called Kikiula in 1845 on a plateau atop a bluff above a bend in the Hanalei River.[449] The two-room, stone plantation home was constructed with thick walls and deep-silled windows, and was plastered on the inside and outside. Notable for its spectacular mountain and valley views, Kikiula was located along the former road that descended into Hanalei Valley. The sister of Godfrey Rhodes married an expert horticulturalist named Thomas Brown who worked with Rhodes to build a substantial coffee plantation of nearly 1,000 acres. Josephine Wundenberg King recalled: “Mrs. Rhodes had a beautiful garden and many flowers that we never see any more. She came from Australia and must have gotten her seeds from there.”[450] Mr. and Mrs. Brown and their four children lived in Wailua on the eastern side of Kaua‘i. Josephine Wundenberg King recalled a childhood journey in 1852 to visit the Browns in Wailua: “We were carried across country in home-made cots of brown cotton hung on poles between two Hawaiian men who carried them on their shoulders and went at a jog trot, while crossing the Wailua River at the upper ford my sister Anna and I got ducked in the water, the tide was high and the cot not water proof but we were not hurt, only pretty well frightened.”[451] On December 12, 1845, Gottfried F. Wundenberg married Ann Moorea Henry and they settled “in a small house on a little mound ‘makai’ [seaward] of the Kikiula house, and the wedding took place there.”[452] “My mother came to Hanalei late in 1845 on a visit with her sister and brother in law the Joseph Smiths from Tahiti where she was born, she was the daughter of the Rev. Wm. Henry one of a band of English Missionaries who were sent out to Tahiti by the London Missionary Society in 1796, and met and married father on December 12, 1845 at Kikiula where Mr. Godphrey Rhodes lived and planted coffee. Their wedding took place under an orange tree in front of the house that the Joseph Smiths occupied, Mr. Rowell of Waimea, Kauai, performing the ceremony.” Josephine Wundenberg King[453] In October of 1845, Rhodes and Von Pfister formed a partnership with retired English Naval Officer Captain Henry Samuel Hunt. At this time about 750 acres in Hanalei Valley were controlled by Rhodes and Von Pfister, and an estimated 1,000 acres of Hanalei Valley were cultivated in coffee. The coffee mill of the Rhodes & Co. Coffee Plantation was built on Hanalei Valley’s eastern slope, just above the current site of the Hanalei Bridge.[454] Together, the coffee plantation of Charles Titcomb and the neighboring plantation of Bernard and Rhodes had more than 100,000 coffee trees planted by 1846.[455] Von Pfister left the Hawaiian Islands to participate in the California Gold Rush and was later murdered in San Francisco. Rhodes became the sole owner of the coffee enterprise after Von Pfister left. The plantation was hindered by the loss of labor to the California Gold Rush, and floods did extensive damage to the crop in 1847 when “two weeks of heavy rains cut streambeds through the fields. Earth, masses of rock, and uprooted trees were strewn thorugh the orchards.”[456]The following years also brought epidemics that killed many Hawaiians.[457] In 1851 the coffee plantation suffered the severe effects of “an unprecedented drought in the valley of Laughing Water,”[458] yet a significant amount of coffee was produced. According to the statistics of the Agricultural Society, between July of 1850 and June of 1851, “Hanalei exported 21,298 pounds of coffee, 39 barrels of Irish potatoes, and 20 head of cattle, at a total value of $27,744.08.”[459] Godfrey Rhodes was vice president of the Royal Hawaiian Agricultural Society in 1851 when he stated in a report: “The coffee plantation of Mr. Titcomb is in excellent order, the trees healthy, and he expects a tolerably large crop from it. The plantation belonging to Mr. Hunt and myself and those of Messrs. Archer and Wundenberg, should, if in good order, yield at least seventy tons of coffee this year, but I am sorry to say that owing to the want of labor they are in a very bad state and the most we can expect from them is one third of that amount; and even this we shall not be able to collect if the Chinamen do not arrive, as the natives will not work.”[460] Rhodes’ partner Henry Hunt, like Von Pfister, also left the Hawaiian Islands, “and was never heard from again. An old letter speaks of his taking his deeds and records...Rhodes appears to have fallen heir naturally to his partners’ shares in the business.”[461] The importation of Chinese laborers and the end of the drought eventually helped to return the coffee fields of Hanalei to significant production. Unfortunately, a blight caused by the white hairy louse (a species of aphid), “affected the coffee trees on all the islands”[462] and soon ended commercial coffee production in Hanalei. Gottfried and Ann Wundenberg lived at Kuna on the east side of Hanalei Valley until 1847, when they built a new home at Limunui, “in the valley just below Kikiula and across the river.”[463] The region of Hanalei Valley known as Limunui was located just below the cliffs called Kuakea and Ka‘ūpūlehu. The banks of the river in this area, according to Elsie Wilcox, were “lined with weeping-willow trees.”[464] Gottfried Wundenberg went to California in November of 1848 along with H.A. Wiedemann and Charles Titcomb, all three men seeking riches in the Gold Rush. While Wundenberg was in California, his family stayed with the Dudoits at Lanihuli in the house built by Captain Kellett on a hill overlooking the mouth of the Hanalei River. Wundenberg’s business operations were run by Archibald Archer, who was “half-Scotch, half Norwegian, and an engineer by profession,” according to Elsie Wilcox.[465] Archer was also put in charge of the coffee milling.[466] Elsie Wilcox also wrote: “He [Archibald Archer] left the Islands for Australia in 1859, became prosperous sheep-raiser and member of Parliament, and made one visit later in life in the Islands, staying with his old friend Mr. Wiedemann In Honolulu.”[467] Josephine Wundenberg King recalled Archibald Archer’s friendship with her father, Gottfried Frederick Wundenberg: “Mr. Archibald Archer was staying with us at the time, he was a Pokii resident, although he had lived in Hanalei with father at one time previously, he was a part Scotch and part Norwegian gentleman, and engineer by profession and often came to help father with the machinery of the coffee mill. A room in our house [Kikiula] was called Mr. Archer’s room, and was kept in readiness for him at all times. He was a great reader, had many books, and always gave us children books for Christmas and birthday presents. “He went to join a brother of his in Queensland Australia in 1859 and became a sheep-grazer there, also a member of Parliament in Brisbane later in life. He visited Mr. Widdemann inHonolulu about twenty-five years ago and has since died at an advanced age.” [p. 7, King, Josephine Wundenberg,Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917.] The Wundenbergs returned to Hanalei in September of 1849, and in 1851 Gottfried Wundenberg began to grow tobacco in the area on the east side of Hanalei Valley known as Kuna. Another tobacco enterprise in Hanalei at this time was run by two men named Bucholz and Gruben. Gottfried Wundenberg also planted tobacco at Limunui with Archibald Archer on the banks of the Hanalei River. Prospects appeared favorable for about two years, and by 1852 “the Hanalei planters were ready to manufacture 200,000 of the best Hawaiian cigars.”[468] A cutworm then devastated the tobacco crop, dashing hopes for a tobacco industry in Hanalei Valley. Wundenberg moved to Honolulu in 1853, and then returned in 1855 to manage the Princeville Plantation for R. C. Wyllie. “Two good sized rivers irrigate the valley and at the extreme makai (seaward) end the mission buildings are just visible amidst the surrounding trees. Immediately beneath me on an eminence commanding the finest obtainable prospect of the two divisions of the valley, a good sized house covered with red tiles stands, surrounded by a garden well stocked with fruit trees and flowers...Passing through a gateway, I follow a zigzag path cut in the hillside and after a long descent reach the plateau on which the house stands. This house belongs to Mr. Wyllie, proprietor of the Hanalei plantation, and is occupied by his manager, Mr. Wundenberg, his wife and 7 children...” Theophilus H. Davies recalling his 1860 visit to Hanalei[469] Robert Crichton Wyllie Robert Crichton Wyllie first arrived in the Hawaiian Islands in 1844. A tall, thin Scotsman, Wyllie had abandoned medical studies in Glasgow to make a small fortune as a merchant in Mexico and South America, and was to create the huge Princeville Plantation near Hanalei with a friend who had been designated the British consul general in Hawai‘i. On March 14, 1853, Scotsman Robert Crichton Wyllie (1798-1865), the Minister of Foreign Affairs for theHawaiian Kingdom, paid $1,300 for the Government (Crown) lands leased to the Rhodes & Co. Coffee Plantation. Wyllie was born in Ayrshire, Scotland. He abandoned his medical studies at Glasgow University at the age of 20, leaving Scotland to be a surgeon aboard British ships. After practicing medicine in Chile, Wyllie was a merchant inLondon and made a large profit in Mexico and South America. Wyllie’s adventures included sailing to India in a small yacht. In 1830, Wyllie returned to Great Britain “with a small fortune in the bank.”[470] Living in London, Wyllie “joined a counting house, and became a London clubgoer.” After more than a decade of Victorian life, “Wyllie traveled to Mexico, and in Mazatlan met General William Miller, a friend from his days in Chile, designated the British consul general in Hawai‘i.”[471] Wyllie was Hawai‘i’s British proconsul before serving as Hawai‘i’s Minister of Foreign Affairs for 20 years, from 1845 until his death in 1865. This service spanned the reigns of three different kings: Kamehameha III, IV, and V. Wyllie was particularly concerned with having high officials in the kingdom follow proper etiquette, and “was held by a sense of chivalry that was centuries out of date if, indeed, it had ever existed at all.”[472] Among his many political accomplishments in the Hawaiian Islands, Wyllie worked to have other countries recognize Hawai‘i as an independent nation.[473] Wyllie also attended many of the functions put on by the Hawaiian royalty, and “their palace was the scene of brilliant receptions and balls, where the tall, red-haired Scot held court dressed in the high style of Beau Brummel.”[474] Of Hanalei, Wyllie wrote, “I never saw such a romantically beautiful spot in all my life time. Were I forty years younger...I would throw the Foreign Office with all its musty papers into the King’s hands and spend the remainder of my life here.”[475] “We left Hanalei sometime in 1853 and went to Honolulu to live but returned again in two years time. Mr. Wyllie having bought the coffee interests there and given father [Gottfried Wundenberg] the management of the place. We went down on the little sloop Sally with Captain Fountain. There were only two bunks in the tiny cabin so we youngsters had to lay on a mattress on the floor. My sister Mary was born in town and was a baby a year old only at this time, fortunately the trip was not longer than twelve hours. The Sally was a fine little sailer, but we were glad to get on shore and went up to Mr. Kellet’s [Kellett’s] house at Lanehule [Lanihuli] to stay until Mr. Rhodes was ready to give my father possession of the mangers house.” Josephine Wundenberg King[476] [Photograph: Kikiula—Princeville Plantation House] On September 13, 1855, Robert Crichton Wyllie bought Godfrey Rhodes’ business interest in his Hanalei Valley plantation for $8,000.[477] Wyllie soon purchased more of the surrounding acreage, and eventually expanded his estate to include a great deal of land to the east and above Hanalei Valley. Gottfried Frederick Wundenberg arrived in Hanalei to manage Wyllie’s plantation. The Wundenberg family stayed at the Kellett house at Lanihuli before moving into Kikiula after the Rhodes family moved out. Gottfried Wundenberg made significant improvements to the stone house, including adding a wooden clap board structure, as well as a top story covered with lath and plaster. His daughter recalled that Kikiula, “was painted white and the roof red, as were all the buildings that were shingled on the place. The red material was a clay found in the hills near by, which wore well when mixed with a little lime to make it stick.”[478] Bamboo troughs were used to channel a nearby spring to the house. A tin-lined box above the bathroom was filled with buckets of water and served as a shower. [Photograph: Kikiula] “Mr. Abner Wilcox had loaned father a cow for his benefit and one of my vivid recollections was seeing her tied up and milked. She was a young black cow and was very wild and hard to manage. Mother said that she was glad if she got a quart of milk a day, or the bucket was not kicked over, and the baby had to be fed on pia made with water only, mother made the pia herself from the arrow root gathered in the hills across the river. She used an old Tahitian ‘Umete’ to prepare it in, one that she had brought from Tahiti.” Josephine Wundenberg King[479] Finding workers for Wyllie’s plantation was an ongoing process for Gottfried Wundenberg. In the early 1850s some Chinese workers were hired, but Wundenberg preferred to hire Hawaiians because they were more readily available. “Many of them lived on the estate,” recalled Josephine, “and their wages were twenty-five cents a day. Our house women were paid three dollars a month...They got their fish from the river and the taro grew on the plantation.”[480] For mechanical and general utility work, Wundenberg hired Charley Griffiths “...an old sea faring man” who “did everything on the place that a mechanic was needed for,” and “lived in a little two roomed cottage on the knoll over the river where the path passes on its way to the sugar mill...it was one of our delights to visit the old man in his den and have him tell us wonderful tales of his sea life.”[481] Charley Griffiths came to the Hawaiian Islands with Thomas Brown and his wife (Godfrey Rhodes’ sister), who lived at Wailua until 1854. “Old Charlie Griffiths gave us a colored picture of the Virgin Mary in a frame that he had made,” recalled Josephine, “we hung it in our school room and shocked the Johnson girls by having a Catholic picture in our house...In 1857, Lizzie Johnson came to stay a few months with us to teach the young ideas, and give us some book learning, none of us had ever been to school.”[482] King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani) and Queen Emma visited Hanalei in 1860 with their son, Prince Albert[483] who was born on May 20, 1858, and was a godchild of England’s Queen Victoria. During the Hawaiian royal family’s 1860 visit to Hanalei they stayed with Gottfried Wundenberg and his family at Kikiula. Wundenberg’s daughter recalled that the royal guests “were both charming people and the little Prince a dear little boy of two years. Madam Namekaha was his nurse. She afterwards married Kalakaua and became Queen Kapiolani in 1875. She was a lovely sweet woman and we became great friends.”[484] As Minister of Foreign Affairs, R. C. Wyllie was involved in the governmental affairs of the Kingdom and was fond of entertaining guests at his Hanalei estate. Wyllie even brought a musician to entertain his royal visitors and provide music for dancing, which was a favorite activity of King Kamehameha IV and Queen Emma, who “were delighted with a pretty tyrolese waltz taught to them by Wyllie.”[485] “She ate her meals with the little Prince at the children’s table, and was with us a great deal. She helped me to make a little Hawaiian flag out of white and blue cotton cloth and turkey-red which I flew on my own flag staff and at the stern of our boat when we went rowing. I used to play tricks on her too, such as putting sand in her private bowl of pink poi and hiding her shoes up in a tree, where she could not get them until I was ready to give them to her, thereby gaining the name of ‘Keike Mahine Kolohe’ [Mischievous Child] which title she was pleased to remember after she became Queen of Hawaii and tease me with.” Josephine Wundenberg King[486] Both the King and the Queen were quite social with their hosts, and seemed to enjoy their stay in Hanalei. “Queen Emma went up stairs nearly every evening to have a romp with us girls when we were going to bed,” recalled Josephine, “and loved a pillow fight as well as any of us. The King was a very entertaining man and loved to dress in disguises for the amusement of us children, he dressed up as a ghost once and gave himself quite a shock when he peered into a looking glass, in a partly darkened room.”[487] King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani) was also an avid hunter, and traveled east to the valley of ‘Anini to catch kōlea (plover) birds as well as the non-native quail. The royal party brought their own rowboats as well as boat crews, and during their six week stay they spent numerous afternoons boating up the Hanalei River and enjoying picnics on the river’s banks. In the summer of 1860, to honor the young Prince Albert, Wyllie changed the name of his estate to the Princeville Plantation and made the young Prince Albert the intended heir. Wyllie planned to petition the government of the Kingdom for his estate to be officially designated Barony de Princeville, and “suggested the heir bear the title, Baron de Princeville.”[488] This never came to be, however, due to the untimely death of Prince Albert in 1862 at the tender age of four. Not long after this tragic loss, the prince’s father, King Kamehameha IV, passed away in 1863 at the age of 29. Another visitor to the Hanalei region in 1860 was Theophilus Harris Davies[489] who first came to the Islands at age 23 from Britain and later became a prominent Honolulu businessman and founder of the “Big Five” firm of Theo H. Davies & Co. Davies later served as the guardian of Princess Ka‘iulani when she went to England to attend boarding school, and accompanied the princess to Washington D.C. after the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy so she could request assistance from President Grover Cleveland in restoring Queen Lili‘uokalani to the throne. During his Hanalei visit, Davies was invited to accompany the royal party to the north shore area of Hā‘ena to explore the large caves there and watch the traditional “fireworks” ceremony known as ‘ōahi (fire throwing), which involved throwing burning logs of the native hau or pāpala into the seaward winds blowing off the cliffs of Makana.[490]Crowds of people arrived in canoes from as far away as Ni‘ihau, and they took great delight in watching the lighted wood soar through the air and fall into the sea. Carried by the strong winds, the firebrands soared out over the water and “swirled out with bursts of flame and plunged hissing into the sea far below, where at a safe distance the chiefs and people had paddled their canoes out to see the spectacle.”[491] People in canoes beneath the cliffs were considered heroic if they were able to catch the burning embers, and would sometimes tattoo themselves with the fiery logs to commemorate the event. The Hawaiian term pāpala refers to five endemic Hawaiian species in the genus Charpentiera. Pāpala reaches a height of up to 39 feet, with leaves that are oblong to elliptical in shape and are up to 16 inches long. The wood of pāpala is light, and when dried the logs burn easily, particularly the pithy centers of the logs. These qualities made pāpala the preferred type of wood to be lit on fire and thrown off the cliffs. Pulelo ke ahi ha‘aheo i na pali The firebrand soars proudly over the cliffs. An expression of triumph. Referring to the firebrand hurling of Kaua‘i, or to the glow of volcanic fire on Hawai‘i.[492] [Illustration: Fire-throwing ceremony] Davies recalled: “Hearing that the Queen was spending the day at Mr. Titcombe’s,” recalled Davies, “Mr. and Mrs. Johnson determined to call on her that afternoon and invited us to accompany them...The Queen asked us what stay we purposed making at Hanalei, and I said we intended going next day to the caves of Haula and back...Her majesty replied that her party were going to the caves the next day...to remain there all night and to have fireworks from the rocks.”[493] Davies joined them the next day for the trip when the “Royal Cavalcade” arrived and he “rode with the Queen most of the way,” adding that “various traditions and legends of places we passed were narrated to me by the Queen.”[494]Other members of the royal party traveled to the event by boat, and a reception met the group at their destination.[495] “Mats were laid on the sand and there we sat, hosts of natives grouped near us—the perpetual pulsation of the ocean in its vesper of praise at our feet—the strange falling flakes of fire afar off in the high air—and over all the clear white light of the moon...whilst our voices blended musically in various part songs. The two young ladies sang soprano, Queen Emma alto, the chronicler tenor, and Henry Dimond bass—and though more than a year has gone, I can almost see the group of white people with our young island Queen in the centre, and hear her sweet melodious notes Oft in the Stilly Night...when I saw her next morning sitting on the verandah with her little boy kneeling in her lap, and clasping his hands, whilst she dictated his morning prayer, I thought few sights more beautiful or more holy...” Theophilus H. Davies, 1862[496] In honor of the visit by the royal family in 1860, Wyllie rechristened his schooner Prince of Hawaii and the vessel “plied for many years between Hanalei and Honolulu. The Hawaiian coat-of-arms was painted on her stern, and again in more elaborate colors and with carving on the side of the cabin.”[497] The Prince of Hawaii “was brought down from the Coast under command of Captain Hatfield,” wrote Elsie Wilcox, “who continued to run her here.”[498] Captain Hatfield later married Captain Kellett’s daughter, Becky Kellett, and with her had two daughters, Mrs. Makee and Mrs. Birkmyer, who both lived in Hanalei. Another visitor to the Wundenbergs in 1860 was Reverend and Mrs. S. C. Damon from Honolulu, and their children. Reverend Damon baptized the two youngest Wundenberg girls, Gussie and Lina.[499] Wyllie rented half of the Kellett house as a summer residence where he dispensed hospitality “in true English style, and when unable to come himself, sent visitors alone to occupy the house.”[500] Wyllie’s cook, Koka, was in charge of the entertainment. Initially, the Caucasian families of the Hanalei region were on good terms. “Very pleasant visits were exchanged by Lucy [Wilcox] and her children with other Hanalei families,” wrote Ethel Damon. “Besides close neighbor Johnsons there were the Rhodes family at the river, the Dudoits on the dairy farm above, and the Wundenbergs, at first on a coffee ranch up the Hanalei river.”[501] [Photograph: Mountains of Hanalei] “In the centre a cluster of these peaks forms a basin some thousands of feet high into which perpetual cascades pour from the cliffs around. After a rainstorm almost scores of these waterfalls may be seen glittering against their green slopes...The soft green of the coffee fields and the weird blades of the sugar cane leaf seemed unnaturally stilled in the ghostly light...” Theo H. Davies, describing the 1860 view from the veranda of the Princeville Plantation House[502] Eventually some local animosities developed, as noted by Theo H. Davies in 1862: “I must premise this by saying that of the four white households that hold sway in this lovely district of creation, no two are on friendly terms. From the slumbering sarcastic feuds that obtain in most small places, to the high and mighty eruptions that distract the world’s great powers, we may discover their prototypes in this happy valley. Hence my visit to the mission families was made alone. Any attempt to enter into the various causes of feuds and their sometimes amusing exhibitions would overstep my resolution.”[503] During Lady Sophia Craycroft’s 1861 visit to Princeville as the guest of R. C. Wyllie, she wrote in her journal that they attended church at Wai‘oli “by boat and on horseback, and were the innocent cause of renewed strife between high contending parties, the Missionary and wife and the Schoolmaster and wife, whose contentions are fierce and of old standing. It would really have been entertaining—if it had not been rather shocking—to witness the struggle carried on between the two ladies in the church, the instant after the service was over, as to which of two persons (who did not speak to each other if it could be avoided) should succeed in getting my Aunt first to her house. Mr. Wyllie effected a compromise, and we visited both for ten minutes. Here of course is a sad subject of scandal among the natives.”[504] “Near the shore of the bay is the village, with its church, school, and mission houses—farther on, a sugar plantation and mill for preparing the sugar-fine grass and trees of many kinds, including oranges—then the whitewashed, red-roofed buildings on Mr. Wyllie’s Estate—and at two miles from the mouth of the stream stands the little flat promontory jutting out from the pali at about half its elevation, on which stands the house and garden of Princeville. We landed under the sweeping shade of weeping willows (descended from those of Longwood) and had a rather toilsome walk up to the house, white and red-roofed like the rest, where we were welcomed by Mrs. Wundenberg and her well-behaved handsome family (all girls save one) between the ages of fourteen and four.” Miss Sophia Craycroft, 1861[505] In 1861, Robert C. Wyllie brought two guests—Lady Jane Franklin and Miss Sophia Craycroft—to visit his Princeville estate. Lady Jane Franklin was the widow of renowned explorer Sir John Franklin, and her niece was Miss Sophia Craycroft. When she came to Hanalei, Lady Franklin was researching a book about the Franklin expedition to the North Pole. She had sailed to California and stopped in Honolulu on her way first to China and then back home to England. The 69-year-old, gray-haired Lady Franklin had just sailed to Alaska searching for information about her husband, who had been lost in the Arctic more than a decade earlier during his fourth expedition there. Throughout the 1850s several ships had been sent to find out what happened to John Franklin. Then in 1859 some records and remnants of his expedition were finally found and it was discovered that he had died about twelve years earlier. Wyllie and his two guests sailed into Hanalei Bay on May 30, 1861 after first visiting O‘ahu and then the volcanoes of Hawai‘i Island. At Hanalei, Princeville Plantation manager Gottfried Wundenberg paddled a long boat out to meet Wyllie and his guests, “and beat back in through a running surf to the delight of his British passengers. The burly German rowed the trio upstream to a landing shaded by weeping willow trees below Kellett’s hillside house.”[506] The guests were greeted at Kikiula, Wundenberg’s home, by his son and six daughters, whose ages ranged from six to fourteen. Lady Franklin was an “aristocratic lady, set firm in the belief that English aristocracy and manners were superior to all others. She was intelligent, energetic, adventurous, and most willing to prejudice the Hawaiian monarchy in favor of England. Lady Franklin awakened dreams in Wyllie’s heart.”[507] Wyllie apparently intended to make Lady Franklin Hawai‘i’s first baroness, establishing ties to the monarchies of Europe.[508] While staying with the Wundenbergs at Kikiula, Lady Franklin wrote: “I am unfortunate at Princeville in a social point of view, since Mr. Wundenberg I can with difficulty understand on account of his insufferable German accent, the worst I ever heard; and with Mrs. W. I do not succeed much better.”[509] In a sad connection to her past loss, Lady Franklin visited a mound of earth near Kikiula where one of the men who had been searching for her husband was buried. The burial spot was “marked with an iron tablet, Sacred to the memory of WM. LUXFORD, Late Quartermaster of H.B.M. Ship Enterprise.”[510] The ship had been to the Arctic searching for John Franklin in 1850 and was wintering in Hanalei when the Quartermaster died and was buried near Kikiula. “We passed here twelve delightful days of unbroken repose, free from bustle, interruption, and fatigue—pray don’t imagine that this means in indolence; the very reverse is the fact—we read, wrote, drew, sewed, while drinking in the perfume of the flowers such as are cherished in conservatories at home, revelling in beauty which could never satiate, because ever changing.” Miss Sophia Craycroft, 1861[511] Lady Franklin encouraged education and a proper upbringing for the children of the Wundenberg household. Josephine Wundenberg King recalled how Lady Franklin “had much to do with making mother [Mrs. Ann Wundenberg] dissatisfied with her life at Hanalei, and told her that she did wrong to bring her family up in such a lonely ‘out of the world’ sort of place, and urged her to let her have my sister Lina to take to England to educate.”[512] Lady Franklin was known to have some eccentricities, including insisting on sleeping in her own bed, “which she took about with her, a sort of a cot, and used in spite of the trouble it often made to find room for it.”[513] Lady Franklin also took long walks with the Wundenberg children. Josephine noted that Lady Franklin, “let her skirts get full of ‘kukus’ which we had to pick out for her while she told us stories of the Norman Kings.”[514] Wyllie was impressed by his sophisticated guests, writing: “Of all the ladies that I have ever met with, they are just the ladies that suit me. They are of high mettle and breeding—not Prudes, humdrum and Pernickatenackate.”[515] [Photograph: Kikiula] Lady Jane Franklin loved to hike each day to the top of the hill behind Kikiula and enjoy the expansive view of the mountains and sea, which perhaps made her think of her husband who disappeared during his ocean journey. “There she would remain for hours...lost in contemplation of the glorious scene spread out before her, with thoughts wandering often no-doubt to distant icy seas, and scanning mayhap the horizon again and again with eager eyes for the white sail she knew could never come.”[516] Lady Franklin’s daily hike to the top of the hill near Kikiula was likely one of the reasons Wyllie decided to give her that piece of land overlooking the bay, called Crow’s Nest, where she had previously proposed that a high-church Episcopal chapel be built to complement Wyllie’s estate. Wyllie also apparently believed that Lady Franklin would someday build a castle there. About the Crow’s Nest land, Elsie Wilcox wrote: “ For many years a wooden sign about three feet long marked the place. Upon Lady Franklin’s death about 1873, her residuary legatee wrote to Bishop Willis of the Anglican Church inHonolulu that she would donate ‘Crow’s Nest’ to the church as the site for a chapel.” [p. 279, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.] Bishop Willis responded that the site was not suitable for a church location as it would be too inconvenient for parishioners to climb the hill to attend services. The Bishop’s request for an exchange for land at a better location was approved, but then it was discovered that Lady Franklin actually had no claim to the land since no conveyance had ever been documented, and so the site remained a part of the Princeville Plantation. Apparently the name “Crow’s Nest” was later “applied to the Transit of Venus Station at Pooku, as being an easier name for ‘malihinis’ to master. The real ‘Crow’s Nest’ is, however, some distance makai [seaward] of Pooku, and should not be confused with it.” [PP. 280-281, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.] After Lady Franklin left, Wyllie wrote to her: “I must confess I felt very lonely after you were gone, and scarcely a night has passed since that I have not been dreaming about Princeville and our tour on Kauai.”[517] Seeking to entice the two ladies back to Hanalei from their journeys in California, Wyllie added: “It appears that you and that romantic niece of yours have been roaming about in the interior, examining grizzly bears, big trees, deep mines, gulches and ravines, where I hope neither you nor she will find such a pleasing spot as the ‘Crow’s Nest,’ or as beautiful and healthful a valley as that which it overlooks.”[518] Wyllie was clear in his intentions that Lady Franklin return to Hanalei, writing: “I begin to fortify myself in the belief that your occupancy of the Crow’s Nest will become more of a reality than of a romantic speculation.”[519] But alas, it was never to be, and Wyllie’s dreams remained unfulfilled. “Mr. Wyllie’s sugar mill is expected here in Aug. or Sept. He says he will have a mill so large as to grind all the cane that can be raised in Waioli and Hanalei” Abner Wilcox, June 19, 1862[520] The Hanalei Sugar Mill Robert Crichton Wyllie constructed the Hanalei Sugar Mill in 1861-1862, with $40,000 worth of machinery purchased from Glasgow, Scotland. The steam-powered mill was built on the east bank of the Hanalei River just down from the Hanalei Bridge, and at the time it was the most modern and productive sugar mill in the Hawaiian Islands. The mill’s chimney rose to 110 feet in height, and the mill’s rollers were able to express 600 gallons of cane juice in 20 minutes. Gottfried Wundenberg oversaw the construction of the new sugar mill as well as the plantation’s transition from coffee to sugar.[521] The Hanalei Sugar Mill became the center of a small but busy factory village that included a post office, storage buildings, camphouses, and a butcher shop.[522] Eleven scows (flat-bottom boats) were used to bring sugarcane from the Hanalei Valley fields down the Hanalei River to the mill. A conveyor belt then carried the cane into the mill to be processed. After the juice was extracted, conveyor belts transported the bagasse (leftover plant material) out of the mill. “Often in the days gone by have we rowed our boat o‘er the still waters of that beautiful river,” recalled Anna S. Wundenberg Wright, “singing our songs as we passed by the old sugar mill which stood near its bank, and we could see the cane as the mill slowly ground it in its rollers.”[523] [Photograph: Hanalei Sugar Mill] Wyllie continued to expand his land holdings from 1860-1863, first purchasing the region above the eastern side of Hanalei valley as far as Kalihiwai, and then on April 17, 1862 purchasing the ahupua‘a (watershed valley) of Kalihikai from A. Keali‘iahonui, the son of Kaumuali‘i, the former ruler of Kaua‘i.[524] Wyllie bought the ahupua‘a of Kalihiwai at public auction from J. W. Austin and Charles Kana‘ina on October 5, 1862.[525] Kana‘ina was the father of William Charles Lunalilo (later King Lunalilo) with Kekāuluohi (Miriam ‘Auhea). At the time of Wyllie’s purchase, the sugar mill was supervised by Mr. Heuck, a German who was also “a partner in a mercantile business in town with Mr. H. von Holt Sr..”[526] In a personal letter to Lady Franklin, Wyllie mentioned his motivations for purchasing more land above his Hanalei Valley coffee plantation: “I intend, if I can procure it, acquiring the fine upland plains on the northern side touching the sea, so that your Ladyship may extend your carriage drives and enjoy your sea bathing without trespassing on the domain of our neighbours. Besides, I require the land for the pasture of the oxen, mules, and horses, that I must keep and for the firewood that I shall want of in [operating] my steam machinery.”[527] “The valley was rich with verdure-coffee trees, sugar cane, meadowland (such grass!-a fine texture, long, thick, and soft as the thickest moss), taro of brilliant green, peach trees, oranges, bananas in such enormous profusion that the fruit cannot be consumed...” Lady Sophia Craycroft, 1861[528] Wyllie’s large land acquisitions continued in 1863 when he paid $29,000 to purchase about 750 acres of Charles Titcomb’s “Emmasville” property in Hanalei Valley, extending the Princeville Plantation estate from Kalihiwai to Pu‘u Pehu above Hanalei Valley to the east, on the “flat kula lands on the plateau,” to the “rich bottom land along the meandering Hanalei River.”[529] Wyllie sent the queen a letter informing her of the designation of the land as “Emmasville.” Titcomb retained ownership of his coffee and sugar mills and other machinery. Wyllie took ownership of four separate land parcels, including “750 acres at Emmaville [Emmasville], 1 acre at the landing, Kanoa pond, 10 acres, and Kukia [Kikiula] on the opposite side of the river.”[530] The Princeville lands also included Po‘okū Heiau, a Hawaiian sacred area, as well as the loko ‘ia (fishpond) known as Kamo‘omaika‘i, located near the mouth of the Hanalei River. A huge grove of the native hala, said to be the largest in the Hawaiian Islands, grew from the heiau area all the way to the current site of the Princeville Hotel terraced into the oceanfront hillside of Pu‘upōā Ridge. Wyllie’s first crop of sugar was harvested in 1863. He moved to Honolulu in 1864,[531] and a few months later the management of Princeville Plantation was taken over by H. A. Wiedemann, a friend of Gottfried Wundenberg from their hometown of Hildesheim in Hanover. Wiedemann managed the Princeville Plantation until the spring of 1865 when John Low arrived. Wyllie’s was not the only sugarcane plantation in the area. Other sugarcane ventures in the Hanalei region at this time included “Mr. Friedenberg, a Portuguese named Antone Brooks, the two Markall brothers, who, with Captain Hatfield planted cane across the river from the Titcomb place, and a man named Hansen, from whose early efforts Waipa Plantation developed, and possibly others. There was a cooper named Neumann and another named Bruns, for in those days sugar was shipped in casks and a cooper was a necessary hand on a plantation.” [P. 280, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.] [Sidebar:] Wyllie’s Broadside Distributed to Natives of Hanalei “By apprenticing your sons to carpenters, masons, blacksmiths and coopers, they would in a few years become carpenters, masons, blacksmiths and coopers themselves, and earn much higher wages than 25 cents a day. You know that such mechanics are paid much higher than mere field laborers, porters, boatmen and cart drivers. Why should some of your sons not learn these arts, and by their industry, get as high wages as the foreigners, who now are, with few exceptions, the only men who practice them? If your sons, after learning these arts, work for me as well, and as many hours every day, and as many days in the month as the foreigners, I shall not only pay your sons the same wages as to the foreigners, but prefer your sons to them.” Robert Crichton Wyllie, 1860s[532] [End Sidebar] Robert Crichton Wyllie passed away at his Rosebank estate on O‘ahu on October 19, 1865, just two years after he had consolidated the plantation at Princeville. He was buried at Honolulu’s Royal Mausoleum at Mauna‘ala. Wyllie’s principal heir was his nephew, Robert Crichton Cockrane, who had come to Kaua‘i just three months earlier from Waltham, Illinois to learn the sugarcane business. As a condition of taking over the Princeville estate, Cockrane was asked to change his name to Wyllie, which he agreed to do. But Cockrane—or Wyllie, as he was now known—had inherited a plantation plagued with ills, including labor shortages, costs associated with irrigation and milling equipment, fires, droughts, vandalism, and damage caused by an agricultural pest called the cane borer. The plantation was in grave financial condition. In addition to Princeville’s other problems, labor troubles occurred in November of 1865 between two groups of workers from two different China provinces. The feuding workers included 30 men in one of the groups and 80 in the other, and they were apparently continuing a quarrel that had existed between them in China before they came to the Islands. Plantation manager John Low moved workers from one of the provinces across the Hanalei River after fighting among the workers led to a man’s death. For the next several years there continued to be a general fear of an uprising among the Chinese laborers at Princeville Plantation. Due to these problems Low placed rows of bayonets in the hallway at Kikiula, and they “presented a very warlike appearance indeed, but were never used, although Mr. Conradt also had trouble with his Chinese labor.”[533] [Photograph: Hanalei Valley] [Photo Caption:] The beauty of [Hanalei] valley was exotic, subtly blended, at once lush and serene.” Alfons L. Korn, 1866[534] The plantation’s financial problems would soon lead to more misfortune. In early 1866, R. C. Wyllie (the former R. C. Cockrane) was engaged to be married to Ida Von Pfister (daughter of John Von Pfister), and he was in Hanalei preparing to welcome his bride-to-be. On February 4, 1866, just eight days before the marriage was to take place, several men gathered to listen to a musical performance at the Princeville Plantation House, the home of plantation manager John Low. Wyllie went to get a jug of water to help Low make some limeade, and Low went to pick some limes. When Wyllie didn’t return for some time, Low became concerned. “Where’s Wyllie,” said Low, “we must find him. He’s been off his head for some weeks.”[535] Low went to look for Wyllie and discovered him in the outside privy where he had cut his own throat with a razor and was bleeding profusely from the large gash. The bloody Wyllie fell into Low’s arms. “Dr. Smith, the nearest physician, was summoned from Koloa, and made a record-breaking ride with relays of horses, covering the forty-five miles in three hours,” recounted Elsie Wilcox. [536] “An attempt was made to sew up the wound, which Abner Wilcox estimated “was big enough to insert four fingers and a thumb.”[537] For the next several days, Wyllie slipped in and out of consciousness. With assistance, the young Wyllie “prepared a will, giving Princeville, in equal shares, to his mother and his fiance, Ida von Pfister, of Honolulu. Dated Princeville February 4, 1866, the bloodstained document carries a wavering signature...”[538] Wyllie struggled to stay alive, writing “I will live” on a piece of paper, and requesting that Wai‘oli Church pastor Reverend Johnson be summoned. Doctors also arrived from Honolulu. He survived for several days before dying on Wednesday evening, February 7, 1866. Wyllie, the former R. C. Cockrane, was buried in the Wai‘oli Church cemetery where an iron fence surrounds the unmarked grave. The financial difficulties of the Princeville estate were said to have been a major cause of Cockrane’s despair. Apparently the depression had first set in after he examined the plantation’s books. The sale of Princeville Plantation for about $40,000 took place on September 19, 1867. Since the first R. C. Wyllie had invested about $200,000 in the property, the sale of the estate was a large loss to his heirs. Just the steam-powered machinery at the sugar mill alone had cost $40,000 when it was imported from Glasgow, Scotland. “After reading the schedule of the property, the leases and contracts involved in the sale, it was stated that the two mortgages on it with interest amounted to $38,150.00 and that the property would be offered over and above that amount. The bidding was commenced at $50.00 and rose rapidly to $1900.00, at which figure it was knocked down to Mr. E.P. Adams, the real purchaser being his Honor E. H. Allen. The plantation therefore realized $40,050.00, with the prospect of a crop of 500 tons of sugar to come off during the next ten months.” The Advertiser, September 23rd, 1867 edition.[539] The management of Princeville Plantation changed hands several times before retired American naval officer Captain John Ross took over the position on July 9, 1872. More changes in shares of ownership took place during the following years. John Ross purchased a one-eighth interest in the Plantation from Judge E. H. Allen, the plantation’s new owner,[540] who then sold one-quarter interest in the plantation to the company of Walker & Allen (John S. Walker and Samuel C. Allen). This one-fourth share was subsequently sold to E. P. Adams and then to Andrew Welsh. Three other sugarcane mills on Kaua‘i at this time were located at Kōloa, Līhu‘e, and Kīlauea. [541] In his 1875 Hawaiian Guide Book for Travelers, Whitney described the Princeville plateau: “Between this valley [Kalihiwai] and Hanalei, the rolling upland is covered with a lauhala forest, reaching to the old silk works of Mr. Titcomb, which were located near the river. Some of these upland tracts, where water can be brought on to them from the neighboring streams, furnish the best of cane land, and will eventually be cultivated with sugar cane or tobacco.”[542] Whitney also described the well-landscaped grounds of Kikiula, the Princeville Plantation House, noting that “its gardens contain the olive, pomegranate, orange and grape, and among roses and shrubbery, the magnificent magnolia grandiflora scatters the exquisite fragrance of its snowy blossoms.”[543] “The crystal Hanalei flows placidly to the sea for the last three or four miles, tired by its impetuous rush from the mountains, and mirrors on its breast hundreds of acres of cane, growing on a plantation formerly belonging to Mr. Wyllie, an enterprising Ayrshire man, and one of the ablest and most disinterested foreigners who ever administered Hawaiian affairs.” Isabella Bird Bishop, 1873[544] On October 6, 1875, the Princeville Plantation was incorporated. At the time ownership of the plantation was divided among several parties, including E. H. Allen (5/8); Andrew Welsh (1/4); and John Ross (1/80).[545] In the first years of the 1870s, the 1000-ton capacity sugar mill was processing a crop that averaged about 400 tons annually.[546] Captain Ross managed the Princeville Plantation until 1876, when he went into partnership with E. P. Adams to plant sugarcane in Kīlauea after purchasing the interests of Charles Titcomb. Taking over the management of the Princeville Plantation was Mr. August W. Conradt, who had previously worked at Kōloa and had also managed the cotton-growing enterprise of Hoffschlaeger & Co. at Keālia. Conradt became one-sixteenth owner of Princeville Plantation, as did Charles Koelling, who ran the mill. August W. Conradt died about one year later, and the management of the Princeville Plantation was taken over by Charles Koelling, with Brewer & Co. becoming the agents. By 1877 the Princeville Plantation had 700 head of sheep to provide manure for the sugarcane fields after the crop was harvested. Within two years the sheep began dying off, and the ranch manager attempted to sell them. [Photograph: Hanalei Valley] [Photo Caption:] “Hanalei has been likened by some to Paradise...every one who sees it raves about it. [Hanalei] has every element of beauty, and in the bright sunshine, with the dark shadows on the mountains, the waterfalls streaking their wooded sides, the river rushing under the kukuis and ohias, and then lingering lovingly amidst lively greenery.” Isabella Bird, 1875[547] Princeville Plantation’s sugarcane enterprise employed about 200 laborers by 1880. About 100 acres of sugarcane were cultivated on the upper slopes and about 200 acres of sugarcane grew in Hanalei Valley. The growing ranch also had 900 breeding stock, 400 head working stock, and at least 150 steers.[548] The Hanalei Sugar Mill Company was organized by Charles Koelling who “leased the place from them [Brewer & Co.] for eleven years at $3,000.00 per year, organized a stock company...and put in the Diffusion System.”[549] The late 1800s, under the management of Charles Koelling, were years of struggle for Princeville. The sugarcane did not grow well in Hanalei’s extremely wet and relatively cool climate, and the Diffusion System was a costly enterprise. Much of the sugarcane “rotted in the lower fields, the upper fields were, it is said, not plowed deeply enough,” wrote Elsie Wilcox, “and at times there was not water enough to flume the cane down to the mill.”[550] Further problems arose when a bovine anthrax outbreak infected Princeville’s cattle in 1890, and the herd had to be destroyed.[551] The sugar mill’s continual failure to make a profit led to the imminent demise of efforts to grow and mill sugarcane in the Hanalei region. After the last crop was planted in 1892, Koelling ended sugar production at Princeville Plantation. When Koelling left, the ratoon crop was sold by Brewer & Company “to a Chinaman, Wong Fun, who took off the last crop, 497 tons, in 1893.” Elsie Wilcox noted that “Mr. Riedel, who had been the engineer for many years stayed until the end, as did also Mr. Radway, the book-keeper, who remained in charge for some little time thereafter.”[552] The Hanalei Sugar Mill was shut down in 1894. Princeville then changed hands again, this time to Albert Spencer Wilcox, who first bought an interest in the Princeville Plantation in 1892. By 1895 Wilcox controlled all but one-eighth ownership. Mr. C. M. Willis assumed management responsibilities of Princeville Plantation in 1896. The upper plateau lands from Kalihiwai to Hanalei were planted with imported grasses and used for cattle ranching, and the lower lands in Hanalei Valley were rented to Chinese rice farmers. By May of 1899, Wilcox had secured complete ownership of the Princeville estate, and continued the conversion of much of the land from sugar production to cattle ranch. In June of 1916, Wilcox sold his Princeville lands to the Līhu‘e Plantation, but maintained ownership of his Hanalei beach house as well as the Wai‘oli Mission House “and some kuleanas along the beach.”[553] The Līhu‘e Plantation was particularly interested in obtaining rights to divert water from the Hanalei River. In 1915, J.M. Lydgate wrote a report to Princeville Plantation’s manager Walter Foss Sanborn regarding the diversion of water in the Hanalei River to the south side of the island “where it could be disposed of at lucrative rates.”[554] A second outbreak of bovine anthrax occurred in 1917 at the Princeville Ranch, which initiated a program of serum and vaccine administration.[555] Silver oak trees were planted over the cattle burial sites from both the 1890 and 1917 outbreaks. In 1919, the Hanalei Sugar Mill on the banks of the Hanalei River was demolished. The bricks from the 110-foot smokestack of the mill were sold to the Kīlauea Sugar Company. “The Princeville plantation brick chimney, for years an outstanding landmark at Hanalei, is a thing of the past. It was demolished on Saturday last by means of dynamite administered at the base, which brought it down with a great crash, that was heard all over the Valley. The bricks are to be sold to Kilauea Sugar Company—there are about 90,000 of them, and they are a very superior, well made brick, imported ‘round the Horn’ in the early days when there were not bricks to be had nearer at hand.” The Garden Island newspaper, September 23, 1919.[556] [Photograph: Kikiula—Princeville Plantation House/Princeville Ranch House] [Photo Caption:] The house that was known as Kikiula when it was the residence of Godfrey Rhodes was later called Princeville Plantation House and then Princeville Ranch House. Princeville Plantation House—Walter Foss Sanborn Walter Foss Sanborn served as the manager of Princeville Ranch until 1927, first working for Albert Spencer Wilcox, and then for the new owner, the Līhu‘e Plantation. Sanborn came to Kaua‘i in 1901, serving as the U.S. District Commissioner for Kaua‘i and Federal Court Representative. After becoming manager of the Princeville Ranch, Sanborn lived in the Princeville Ranch House with his wife, Lena Deverill Sanborn, who was raised on Kaua‘i. Lena’s father was Alfred Palmer Deverill who came to the Islands with his brother William as part of a contingent to present a christening gift to Prince Albert from his godmother, Queen Victoria.[557] Alfred Deverill married Emma Lindsey and gave birth to Lena and three other children that he later abandoned. Lena was adopted by William and Sarah Deverill, and grew up in Hanalei as part of their family. Alfred Deverill married Emma Lindsey and they had four children in Waimea on the island of Hawai‘i, before Alfred abandoned his family and moved to Maui. On Maui, Alfred Deverill worked on the ranch of Captain Makee and married a Hawaiian. Lena’s mother Emma later remarried and had a daughter and son with George Thomas William K. Bell. [558] Walter and Lena married in September of 1906, and the next year gave birth to their first child, Helen, and then three boys: Walter F. Jr., Percy, and John (Jack). Helen grew up in the Princeville Ranch House with her three brothers, and during this time the house served as the center of operations for the large Princeville cattle ranch. The Sanborn children “rode with the cowboys, drove cattle, and watched the roping and branding.”[559] “The old dairy is now used as a fernery, and there have been minor changes, such as the rearranging of partitions, extending of verandas, etc., but the old original shell of the house [Kikiula] still remains. It commands a marvelous view of the valley and mountains. Captain Rhodes had a beautiful garden, with many rare trees...the garden-walks were all edged with pineapple plants, then rather rare in the Islands.” Elsie Wilcox, 1917[560] The Sanborn children delighted in going to movies shown in Hanalei at Wai‘oli Mission Hall (the old Wai‘oli Church). A Packard car parked outside the church building provided electricity to run the movie projector “which continually broke down or had to be stopped to rewind the old reel before going on with the next.”[561] The Sanborn children were taught by Hawaiians how to fish for mullet on the Hanalei River at the first rapids at the kahe, “..a small homemade bamboo raft stacked with honohono grass on one side.”[562] The raft was “anchored in a narrow stretch...men had scooped out a pond nearby to hold the trapped fish.”[563] After the fish trap was ready, they all hiked about three miles upriver and begin to swim downstream to drive fish toward the bamboo trap. Note: The Hawaiian names for mullet (Mugil cephalus) range from ‘ama‘ama (finger-length) to ‘anae (30 cm or more). A downstairs storeroom of the Princeville Ranch House held flour and other supplies that were sold to cowboys working on the ranch, and a nearby building housed the Princeville Ranch Office. The Ranch’s branding corral, blacksmith’s shop, and a home for the blacksmith were located near what is now the intersection of Kūhiō Highway and Ka Haku Road. Other ranch operations buildings were also located in this area, including milking pens and a stable with corrals.[564] Helen Sanborn Davis recalled “slaughter day,” when “the butcher passed through the village peddling meat in his beef car.”[565] Homes for the cowboys, who were mostly Hawaiian, were built on both sides of the highway near the current site of the Princeville Shopping Center.[566] The ranch’s mules and horses were taken down to the shore at ‘Anini once a week. A wagon path lined with plum trees led from the Princeville plateau down to the shore.[567] (The path can still can be seen along Ka Haku Road.) Helen Sanborn Davis recalled that “on Saturday, the riding pace picked up, for that was when they galloped bareback along the beach, herding the horses and mules to ‘Anini Beach to bathe them.”[568] During the 80 years that the Princeville Ranch House (Kikiula) was used as a dwelling, it was home to many different Princeville Plantation and Ranch managers, including the Wundenberg, Low, Conradt, Koelling, Willis, and Sanborn families. The Sanborns also had a house on the shoreline of Hanalei Bay, which they built in 1910 and referred to as the Mauka (Mountain) House. Numerous additions were made to the Princeville Ranch House by its different owners. For example, Gottfried Wundenberg built a second story, Charles Koelling put an addition on the second story, and C. M. Willis removed the old kitchen and stone out-buildings. At the turn of the century the Sanborns modernized the Princeville Ranch House and the grounds included stables, flower and vegetable gardens, fruit trees, and “outbuildings for Walter’s office, the servant’s quarters, a warehouse, chicken coops, pig-pens, and a building for small-animal supplies.”[569] In a separate building constructed of corrugated iron, “laundry was boiled in huge pots over a fire before being scrubbed by hand on wooden washboards in large cement tubs, then rinsed and hung out to dry.”[570] The Princeville Ranch House eventually became dilapidated. Honeybees that enjoyed the flower gardens and fruit trees during the days nested in the home’s walls at night. Unable to eradicate the bees, Walter was said to have told his children “Sit still and they won’t sting.”[571] As the bee infestation grew worse, the walls of the Ranch House dripped with honey, and finally the structure had to be abandoned.[572] The old home, which was originally known as Kikiula when it was built by Godfrey Rhodes in 1845, was torn down in the fall of 1918. The Sanborn family moved to their beach home in Hanalei. [Photograph: Princeville Ranch House] As the years passed, the Princeville Ranch saw changes in personnel and many new structures were built. Before his retirement in 1927, Walter Foss Sanborn served as the north shore’s tax assessor and collector. Sanborn also built and operated a poi mill in Hanalei.[573] Fred Conant replaced Walter Foss Sanborn as the Princeville Ranch manager in 1927. Conant built a ranch office just to the east of the current entrance to Princeville “near the pink plumeria tree which was the inspiration for the Princeville Resort logo.”[574] Princeville’s cattle were exported to Honolulu on freighters that arrived in Kalihiwai Bay and Hanalei Bay. A corral was built near the Hanalei Pier to hold the animals as they awaited being loaded onto the ships. Because the nearshore waters of Hanalei Bay are quite shallow, freighters had to anchor farther offshore in deeper waters. This required the cattle to be “roped, dragged into the water and swum out to whaling boats. Five cattle were tied by their horns to each side of a boat.”[575] Up to five cattle were tied to each side of the long and narrow whaleboats. This made rowing difficult, so a cable was rigged and the cattle-laden whaleboat was pulled out to the freighter. Straps were then slung beneath the belly of each animal, and one by one the cattle were hoisted aboard the freighter.[576] Fred Conant was instrumental in the creation of the Hanalei Valley Lookout. Also under Conant’s direction, a new home for the Princeville Ranch manager was built in Hanalei on Weke Road. The Princeville Ranch Manager’s House later became the home of Larry and Jeanie Ching (see Chapter 5). The lands of the Princeville Ranch continued to be used for cattle in the 1930s, and an area of the upper slopes was planted with pineapples. “Hanalei is one of the most tropical districts on the island, because of the many mountain streams which traverse it. The view from the plateau is unsurpassed. The wide Hanalei valley, with its beautiful river of the same name, can scarcely be equated for loveliness. The mountains in the distance noted not so much for their height as for their peculiar formation, and their distinctive, broken, curved and jagged peaks, throw their weird shadows over a vale luxurious with forest growths.” Whitney, 1890[577] Hanalei’s First Catholic Chapel Though a Protestant mission was established in the Hanalei region in 1834, Hanalei’s first Roman Catholic church was not established until 1864. The Catholic Chapel was built on the western bank of the Hanalei River near the rivermouth. Behind the Chapel was Hanalei’s first trading store, called Hubertson’s Store, run by an Englishman named Hubertson who arrived in the 1840s with a shipload of goods. Hubertson’s Store was eventually closed after an auction sale of the products. Hubertson had a Chinese wife, and when he left the island he left behind “some minor children for whom Henry Rhodes, a brother of Godfrey Rhodes, was guardian.”[578] The old Hubertson’s Store building near the rivermouth was later used as a packing house for the large quantities of oranges grown in Wainiha, Lumaha‘i, and Hanalei.[579] The Catholic Chapel was built on land purchased on October 10, 1849 by Frenchman John Brosseau, who secured a grant for the land from King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli). Brosseau died at Moloa‘a on January 21, 1850, and the land was bought by Henry Rhodes, who then willed it to his brother, sea captain Godfrey Rhodes. Godfrey and his wife Anna Louisa then deeded the Hanalei land to Father Maudet in 1860 for the Catholic chapel. Hanalei’s first Catholic Chapel was blessed on the site near the Hanalei River on October 3, 1864. The chapel was dedicated to Saint Maxime, the Patron Saint of a friend of the Rhodes family, M. Desnoyers, who was the French consul at Honolulu and also a friend of the Rhodes. The Chapel and a Rectory, a small house for the priest, were built by Brother Arsene Bernat and blessed by Father Maudet. [Photograph: Roman Catholic Chapel and Rectory] [Photo Caption:] Roman Catholic Chapel, Belfry, and Rectory Built: 1864. Location: West bank of Hanalei River, near rivermouth. Wooden bell tower added around 1899. Status: No longer standing. A tall and slender wooden Church Belfry was built on the Hanalei Catholic Chapel site around 1900 by Father Sylvester, who had long served the Hanalei area. The Belfry was added because Father Matthias “declared that the rectory stood out rather more than the church itself.”[580] “On the river bank,” wrote Ethel Damon, “stands a modest little wooden church attended by its high, slender belfry. This is the Roman Catholic chapel.”[581] Eventually the Catholic Chapel was outlasted by the Rectory, which was used to hold mass after the church was gone. [Photograph: Catholic Chapel] [Photo Caption:] “The blessing of a chapel at Hanalei took place on October 3rd [1864]. Hanalei is the finest bay of the Sandwich Islands. There, near a river, on a charming site, on a piece of land given by a Catholic Englishman, our new little chapel has been erected.” Church record, sent to the Holy Father in Rome, (originally written in French).[582] Godfrey Rhodes’ wife Anna Louisa was a Catholic, and Rhodes himself, who “had a fluent command of French,” was converted to Catholicism, “on board the schooner which transported Catholic fathers, under edict of banishment, from the Hawaiian Islands in 1837.”[583] In 1829, Protestant convert and kuhina nui (premier) Ka‘ahumanu ordered that practicing Catholics be punished and sent to the island of Kaho‘olawe, which became a penal colony. In 1831, Ka‘ahumanu expelled from the Island Catholic priests, including Reverends Bachelot and Short, and strongly discouraged believers in the Catholic religion. Reverend Bachelot returned to the Islands in 1837. On December 18, 1837, with the urging of Protestant missionaries, King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) issued an ordinance rejecting the Catholic religion, leading to a controversy with France. The British Royal Navy ship Sulphur arrived in Honolulu on July 8, 1837. The French naval vessel Venus also arrived, and there was controversy regarding Catholic priests in the Islands, resulting in a treaty assuring equal treatment for French residents. On June 7, 1839, King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) issued a Declaration of Rights that came to be known as the Hawaiian Magna Carta. The document was a predecessor to Hawai‘i’s first formal constitution in 1840, and also served as the constitution’s preamble. On June 17, King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) issued an Edict of Toleration regarding religious differences, reversing his earlier stance banning the practice and teaching of Catholicism. Catholic presence in the northern Kaua‘i region was initially most prominent to the east of Hanalei in the nearby community of Moloa‘a. “Hanalei was never much of a Catholic mission center,” wrote Damon, “but at Moloaa, the meandering valley some twelve miles to the east of Hanalei, a school was conducted where the Hawaiian children were taught to spin while reciting their lessons.”[584] A 62-foot by 21-foot stone church named St. Stephen’s was completed in Moloa‘a by 1854. The Stranded Crew of the U.S.S. Saginaw (1870) Kaua‘i was often the first stop for ships returning from trips to the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands. On the evening of December 19, 1870 a small boat foundered in winter seas off Hanalei Bay. The tiny vessel carried five exhausted crew members of the U.S.S. Saginaw, which had become shipwrecked a thousand miles to the northwest on Kure Atoll with 93 people on board. At 2:30 A.M. offshore of Hanalei Bay, the small boat was rolled by the rough ocean swell. Two of the crew members, Peter Francis and John Andrews, were swept away by waves and drowned. Lieutenant Talbot, drenched in his heavy clothing, briefly held onto the hull before he lost hold and perished. By sunrise the tiny craft had drifted down the coast to Kalihiwai, where crew member and coxswain William Halford made it to shore. James Muir, the other surviving crew member, was pulled to shore by Halford. Muir was delirious and died on the beach. The Saginaw had crashed into a reef at Kure a month earlier while doing a good deed. The Saginaw was not scheduled to pass Kure Atoll, but the ship’s captain decided to go about 60 miles out of his path to the atoll to see if anyone was stranded there. The captain misjudged the ocean current and the Saginaw ran aground on Kure’s eastern reef. Waves smashed the ship in two, and the 93-person crew crawled over the fallen main mast to Kure’s lagoon. The stranded crew of the Saginaw eventually made their way to nearby Green Island, just a few acres of coral and sand near the edge of the reef. There the crew survived by eating seals and birds and drinking rainwater. The stranded men eventually decked-over the Saginaw’s 22-foot gig (a captain’s boat), and fitted and provisioned the small vessel to sail for help. Five of the crew members left Kure on the small boat on November 18, 1870 in an attempt to reach the main Hawaiian Islands and get help. They first sailed north and east, and then caught the tradewinds south. The storm-tossed and weather-beaten crew lost their oars, and their provisions were ruined by ocean water. The captain of the tiny vessel, Lieutenant John G. Talbot, caught dysentery before finally arriving off Hanalei where the boat swamped in the rough seas. On Kaua‘i, Halford conveyed his tragic story to Sheriff Samuel W. Wilcox, who assisted him in sailing to Honolulu where he informed the United States Consul about the stranded crew of the shipwrecked Saginaw on Kure Atoll. King Kalākaua promptly dispatched the Kīlauea, which arrived at Kure on January 3, 1871 to rescue the stranded Saginaw crew. William Halford was later given the Medal of Honor for his heroic efforts. King Kalākaua Visits Hanalei On March 17, 1874 the Kilauea carried the newly elected King Kalākaua into Hanalei Bay where he was greeted by a royal “21-gun salute. The guns were actually large logs of ‘ōhi‘a lehua bored out and packed with gunpowder. These improvised cannons were set up on a hillside near where the boat was anchored, beneath a sign on theKilauea that read Hookahi Puuwai (“One Heart”). (Note: Proper spelling includes diacritical marks (e.g., Kīlauea; Ho‘okahi Pu‘uwai).) The log cannons were fired one after another, each in turn bursting apart the charge was released. Masses of people greeted King Kalākaua as he rowed to the wharf and walked beneath an arch that read “God Save the King,” which was written with ferns placed over a white background. The national anthem was played by the Royal Band. Children scattered flowers in the King’s path, which was lined with the yellow and red blossoms of ‘ōhi‘a lehua. King Kalākaua was then led to a nearby area thatched with ferns and fragrant native maile, and a grand lū‘au commenced. King Kalākaua’s party later journeyed up the Hanalei River, some riding horseback while others were rowed up the river in boats. Kalākaua stayed the night at the home of Kaukaha, and in the morning the royal party left Hanalei Bay and sailed around the Nāpali Coast to Waimea.[585] Hanalei was the first stop on the newly elected monarch’s royal tour of the Hawaiian Kingdom. Princess Lili‘uokalani Visits Hanalei Princess Regent Lili‘uokalani, the future Queen of Hawai‘i, arrived in Hanalei Bay on September 23, 1881. King Kalākaua was away from the Islands on a world tour at the time, and Lili‘uokalani (his sister) was serving as Regent in his absence. The day after arriving in Hanalei, Princess Lili‘uokalani traveled to Kīlauea, where she had been invited by one of the Kīlauea Sugar Plantation’s owners, R.A. Macfie, Jr., to commemorate the Kīlauea Sugar Corporation’s purchase of a railroad engine as well as three miles of track and 24 railroad cars to carry the sugarcane. With two hard blows of the hammer, Princess Lili‘uokalani drove in the first ceremonial spike. In 1910 the Kīlauea Sugar Plantation became the first in the Hawaiian Islands to use gasoline-powered tractors to cultivate the fields. The plantation was eventually shut down by C. Brewer in 1972. In 1942, the 2-foot (.6-m) narrow gauge track and railroad cars were replaced by trucks. Queen Lili‘uokalani visited Hanalei again ten years later, arriving at Nāwiliwili Bay in the pre-dawn hours of July 8, 1891. The Queen was taken by carriage to Hale Nani, the home of William Hyde Rice, where hundreds of children greeted her. Ho‘okupu (gift-giving ceremonies) took place, and the Royal Band performed under the direction of conductor Heinrich “Henry” Berger.[586] Two days later, after a visit to the Makee Plantation in Keālia, Queen Lili‘uokalani and her party rode by carriage to Hanalei where more receptions were held. On July 12, the queen boarded the James Makee intending to sail to Ni‘ihau, but was forced to endure tumultuous ocean conditions that night off the northern coast of Kaua‘i before sailing on to Ni‘ihau the next day. After returning to Kaua‘i, Queen Lili‘uokalani’s party was welcomed at Waimea by a salute fired from the fort. Following a visit to Kōloa, the queen was honored with a traditional lū‘au (Hawaiian feast) attended by about 2,000 people in Kalapakī at the home of the Rice family. Queen Lili‘uokalani was accompanied on her Kaua‘i tour by Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana‘ole, the grandson of Kaua‘i’s former ruler, Kaumuali‘i. Prince Kūhiō was the nephew and adopted son of Queen Kapi‘olani. Born on Kaua‘i in 1871, the prince had been named as heir presumptive to the throne by Queen Lili‘uokalani after she ascended to the throne in 1891.
The Deverill House—Hanalei Hotel A prominent structure in Hanalei at the end of the 1800s and well into the 1900s was the Deverill House, also known as the Hanalei Hotel. The Western-style, timber-framed home was originally constructed in 1838 about ¾-mile away, near the Wai‘oli Mission House where it was built for Protestant teachers Mr. and Mrs. Edward and Lois H. Johnson. The Johnsons arrived at the Wai‘oli mission station in 1837 and lived in the home until 1867 at its original site. Around 1890, the former Johnson home was rolled on logs of ‘ōhi‘a lehua to a site closer to the beach and to the east, where it became the home of William and Sarah Deverill. Sarah had lived in the home as a child when she was a ward of the Johnson family.[587] The home, which is no longer standing, was located across from the current site of the Hanalei Pavilion. William Edward Herbert Deverill (1848-1904) came to the Islands from Lancashire, England, arriving at age eighteen with his brother Alfred Palmer Deverill. The Deverill brothers were part of a contingent sent by Queen Victoria to present a christening gift to her godson, Prince Albert. Sadly, the young prince had succumbed to sickness and passed away at age four. After the Deverill brothers presented the gifts to the queen, William and Alfred remained in the Islands. William Deverill had studied in France, and after arriving in the Hawaiian Islands he worked at Kohala Ranch on Hawai‘i Island. He also worked in Hilo and Honolulu, including a job with Chase and Dickson photographic galleries where he learned photographic skills he later put to use in Hanalei. William Deverill moved to Kaua‘i in 1875, initially living in Līhu‘e where he served as deputy sheriff under Samuel Wilcox. William married Sarah Benson Fredenberg, who was part Hawaiian and had grown up in Hanalei. Sarah was the daughter of Mary Kau Kellett Fredenberg, a daughter of Captain Kellett, Hanalei’s former Pilot of the Port. William and Sarah Deverill had six children, including Edward, Percy, Florence, Stanford, Anne, and Herbert. The latter three were born 19 years after the first three. Also raised at the house was the Deverills’ niece Lena. In 1887 the Deverills moved to O‘ahu, where William ran the Lunalilo home. Then in 1890 William and Sarah moved to Hanalei where they ran the Hanalei Hotel out of their home just west of Hanalei Pier. Sarah and William Deverill had three children—Edward, Florence, and Percy—and then more than fifteen years later had three more children—Anne, Herbert, and Stanford. [Photograph: Hanalei Hotel] [Photo Caption:] Hanalei Hotel Also called: The Deverill House. Built: 1838—No longer standing. Former Johnson Home—Moved from near Wai‘oli Mission House around 1890. Over the decades, many changes were made to the Deverill House, including extensive remodeling and additions. The home site eventually became somewhat of a community center, with a lānai walkway connecting the main building to a separate structure that housed a Hawaiian Kingdom post office and general business place, including a tax office.[588] The main part of the Deverill House was two-stories, with five bedrooms upstairs and verandas on both levels facing Hanalei Bay. Extending out from the back of this part of the home was a structure containing the kitchen and pantry as well as the dining room. Rooms on the western side of the Deverill House were used by the family for sleeping when guests were staying in the main quarters. After phone service was installed in 1891, a phone call from Līhu‘e would alert the Deverills of arriving guests so they could begin making preparations. A separate building near the Hanalei Hotel housed a dispensary where a medical clinic was offered twice a week by a Kīlauea doctor. The dispensary building also had an ironing room, and for many years was the quarters of Kateyama, the head helper, cook, and baker. On the back side of the Deverill House were tanks to catch rainwater, and also a hale li‘ili‘i (outhouse). Other structures on the site included a chicken house and a barn. Various vegetables grew in the garden and rice paddies grew in the back yard. Behind the home and beyond the rice paddies was the Deverills’ boat house, on the banks of the Hanalei River. The Deverill children sometimes escorted guests to local scenic spots. Prominent artists of the time who painted Hanalei landscapes included Otto Wix, Robert Barnfield, and D. Howard Hitchcock. [Photograph: William Deverill] William Deverill had a multitude of jobs, serving as district sheriff, tax assessor, road supervisor, and property manager for Albert Spencer Wilcox. As an agent for the Inter-Island Steam Navigation Company, William was in charge of all steam freight arriving or being sent from Hanalei Bay.[589] He also started a coffee plantation on leased land in Hanakāpī‘ai Valley on Kaua‘i’s Nāpali coast. Sarah Deverill’s many roles included serving as manager of the Hanalei Hotel where she charged guests $3.00 a day for room and board. Sarah was also a midwife, and she was known as a gracious and dependable hard worker. In the early 1890s, Sarah operated a butcher shop, slaughtering animals and selling beef. William Deverill was an avid photographer and used his darkroom at the Hanalei Hotel to develop his own pictures as well as those of his guests. Japanese residents often called William “Deverill Man,” and many Hawaiians called him “Kepolo.”[590] William Deverill died in 1904, and his grave site may still be seen alongside Wai‘oli Mission Hall (the former Wai‘oli Church) in Hanalei. The gravestone reads: W. E. H. Deverill, Burnly Lancashire, Eng., September 6, 1848-May 24, 1904, Hanalei, Kauai. After William’s death, Sarah assumed many of his former duties, including serving as the region’s tax assessor and postmistress. The Hanalei Hotel remained in operation until 1920 when the automobile became popular, road improvements allowed faster access to Hanalei from Līhu‘e, and visitors no longer needed to stay the night in Hanalei. Sarah Deverill passed away in Honolulu in the 1930s. One of the daughters of William and Sarah Deverill was Florence K. Deverill, who taught grades one through four at Hanalei School. Florence was much older than her younger siblings, who were among her students at Hanalei School. Also working at Hanalei School was Florence’s aunt, Elizabeth Fredenberg Lindley, who taught grades six through eight. Another child of William and Sarah Deverill was Edward Deverill, who was born in 1881 and attended ‘Iolani and Punahou Schools in Honolulu before returning to Hanalei where he worked as the tax assessor. Edward later worked various other jobs in the Islands and married Barbara Ella Lee of Los Angeles, who worked as a school teacher in Makaweli. After Edward’s retirement, Barbara and Edward moved to Hanalei where they built a house on the shore of Hanalei Bay. Barbara Deverill worked as a teacher at Hanalei School until 1952, and lived to age 100. Edward Deverill died on May 6, 1940, and was buried next to his father in the Wai‘oli Church Cemetery. Edward and Barbara’s two sons were E.G.K. Deverill, Jr. and Herbert Spencer Deverill. Herbert worked for Universal Studios in Los Angeles as a motion picture art director before passing away in 1984. Barbara Ella Deverill’s sister, Etta Lee Brown, was a movie star who played roles opposite Rudolph Valentino and Douglas Fairbanks Sr.
Part 4 The Rice Era and the Beach Houses of Hanalei (1900—1950)
Roads and Bridges The current road down into Hanalei Valley (Route 560) came into use around 1900. The new road replaced a steeper, winding route with three switchbacking S-curves that wound its way down the hill to a ferry that carried passengers over the Hanalei River. The original road down into Hanalei Valley passed a post office as well as the home known as Kikiula, later known as Princeville Plantation House and then Princeville Ranch House. The road reached the valley floor just upriver from the current site of the Hanalei Bridge (built in 1912) at a place where several buildings associated with Princeville Plantation were located.[dxci] Kaua‘i’s road system underwent a gradual improvement beginning around 1850, and in 1851 a report by Godfrey Rhodes, the vice president of the Royal Hawaiian Agricultural Society, stated: “The condition of the roads under the superintendence of foreigners is wonderfully improved, and the amount appropriated by government for their further improvement will render them tolerably good and easy for traveling on horseback. It is hoped that in the course of a very few years the whole of the distance between Hanalei and Waimea will be traversed by a good carriage road.”[dxcii] According to Theophilus H. Davies, the founder of the “Big Five” firm of Theo H. Davies & Co., there was an alternate route into the valley when he visited in 1860. “My companion not being on as intimate terms with the proprietors, and moreover not wishing to be recognized by the ladies in our rough travelling dress, resolutely refused to take this private road,” recalled Davies, “and we descended by another path, half a mile lower down. Just as we reached the river-side, the royal barge containing the two young ladies and Mr. Wyllie passed, and notwithstanding Henry’s anxiety to avoid a recontre, we exchanged salutes.” [p. 56, Davies, Theo. An Account of the First Visit to the Island of Kauai in September 1860. Transcription from the original journal written in longhand on board S. S. “Ariel”, on the Atlantic, 22nd August, 1862.] [Photograph: Road to Hanalei—pre-1900.] [Photo Caption:] “It is quite possible to drive in a light vehicle from Hanalei to Mana point, a distance of 65 miles.” Henry Whitney, 1875[dxciii] Sometime around 1885, the main route into the valley was realigned to where it is today. An 1893 government survey map shows both the old and new routes down into Hanalei Valley. In his 1895 journal, Eric Knudsen noted that the wagon trail extended only as far as Hanalei, and after that point travelers stayed near the shoreline where it was easier to cross the numerous rivers. Until about 1900, the newer route into Hanalei Valley was more of a trail than a road. By 1904, the new alignment of the road was labeled as the primary route,[dxciv] and the former route came to be known as the “old road.”[dxcv] Not far from where the road reached the valley floor it intersected the Hanalei River where a ferry was constructed to carry travelers across. “The winding road by which I descended before is a private road,” wrote Davies, “and at its foot the Hanalei river runs and has to be crossed by a raft that always lies there, belonging to the plantation.”[dxcvi] According to an 1899 publication, the ferry was “supported by government and the Princeville Plantation jointly.”[dxcvii] Ferries were not quite as sturdy as bridge crossings, and sometimes led to precarious situations. In the mid-1800s, “there were no bridges in Wainiha,” recalled Josephine Wundenberg King, “although there were ferry scows at Lumahai and at Hanalei and Kalihiwai, I never liked crossing on them, for I was pushed off one at Princeville once by a kicking horse and never got over the fright. Most horses were nervous on them, and they were often leaky and tipped too much for comfort, mentally and otherwise. In the very old times natives paddled people over the rivers in canoes and swam our horses over for us, which was the safest if not the most convenient method.”[dxcviii] The hand-pulled ferry over the Hanalei River operated until about 1895, when an iron-truss bridge was erected. Before about 1900, the wagon road extended past the Hanalei Bridge to Hanalei town, and beyond that point there was only a trail. Around 1904, wooden timber bridges were constructed over the streams flowing from the valleys of Waipā, Waikoko, Wainiha, and Lumaha‘i. The early 1900s were a time of building, but they were also a time of letting go of some of the old places. An iron-truss bridge had replaced the ferry over the Hanalei River, and in 1912 it was replaced by the current steel bridge. For several years, pieces of the old bridge’s iron structure remained in the river, but these hazards were eventually removed by the government. By 1917, the old coffee mill and Kikiula were gone. Elsie Wilcox wrote: “No signs of the house and garden are now to be found. Mr. Rhodes Coffee Mill was a little further up the river, on the opposite side from Limunui, above the present bridge, where the old scow used to be.”[dxcix] [Photograph: Hanalei Bridge] [Photo Caption:] Hanalei Bridge Built in 1912, replacing previous bridge built around 1895. Maker: Hamilton and Chambers Company; New York, New York. County Engineer: Joseph Hughes Moragne. Repairs, Reinforcements: 1934; 1959-60; 1967; 1989; 2002-2003. Hawai‘i and National Register of Historic Places: 1978.[dc] Hanalei Bridge spans the Hanalei River at the bottom of a long hill that descends into Hanalei Valley from Princeville. The bridge spans 113 feet (34 m) over the Hanalei River, and is Hawai‘i’s oldest American-made, steel, through-truss bridge. The structural type of the Hanalei Bridge is a through-truss (Pratt-truss) steel bridge, constructed on reinforced concrete abutments, with a timber deck. The vertical clearance from the timber deck of the bridge is 15 feet (4.6 m), and the horizontal clearance (width) at the deck is 17 feet (5.2 m). The Carnegie Steel truss pieces were prefabricated in New York City by the firm of Hamilton & Chambers for the Territory of Hawai‘i. The connections were riveted at the bridge site and then the bridge was erected over the Hanalei River. The 1912 bridge had a twelve-ton load limit until repair work in 1934 strengthened the super-structure. The Hanalei Bridge was damaged by the 1957 tsunami, and reinforcements were added in 1959. Warren trusses were added in 1967. (See Part 5: Hanalei Today.) In 1912 and 1913, concrete bridges were erected at Wai‘oli, Waipā, and Waikoko[dci] by County Engineer Joseph Hughes Moragne (and later R. L. Garlinghouse), who undertook an extensive bridge building program. Also undertaken was the construction of a Kaua‘i “Belt Road,” a road paving project that was completed by about 1920 and extended from Mānā to Hā‘ena. The construction of new bridges on Kaua‘i’s north shore was given impetus by the collapse of three of the region’s wooden bridges in the summer of 1912. The bridge failures were caused by heavily loaded wagons being used to move large amounts of crushed rock for road construction. “Three bridges in the Hanalei District which are to be replaced with new ones, had collapsed. One bridge had been but fairly cleared by a loaded wagon, when it fell and crashed into the stream, while a second bridge went down carrying a part of the wagon with it. Fortunately, the team had secured sound footing and were able to withstand the strain. A third bridge collapsed with no great loss, as the timbers were useless.” The Garden Island newspaper, 1912[dcii] The new bridges built on Kaua‘i’s north shore were part of the effort to create the County Belt Road linking the north and west shores of Kaua‘i with a series of new bridges and a paved, improved road, making Kaua‘i’s modern road system the envy of the Islands.[dciii] In the first issue of 1913, The Garden Island newspaper reported “new concrete bridges now under construction are assuming a finished appearance. A new steel bridge has also replaced the old structure across the Hanalei River.”[dciv] The Wai‘oli Bridge, located just past Hanalei town, is a concrete, cast-in-place, multi-span structure with pointed cap railings. Just past Wai‘oli bridge is Waipā Bridge, originally built in 1912. An additional span was added in 1946, lengthening the bridge to accommodate the new course of Waipā Stream after it was altered by the 1946 tsunami. The original portion of Waipā Bridge is double span, and cast-in-place, with pointed cap railings and beveled trim. The newer (1946) part of the bridge is also cast-in-place. Waikoko Bridge, originally a concrete, cast-in-place structure built in 1912, partially collapsed during the 1946 tsunami. To make the bridge passable after the tidal wave, rocks were stacked up atop the fallen structure to make the bridge functional again. This repaired bridge remains in use to the present day, with low rock walls along the sides of the bridge serving as railings. [Photograph: Wai‘oli Bridge] [Photo Caption:] Wai‘oli Bridge Built: 1912 Hawai‘i and National Register of Historic Places: 1978.[dcv] [Photograph: Waipā Bridge] [Photo Caption:] Waipā Bridge Built: 1912; Lengthened: 1946. Hawai‘i and National Register of Historic Places: 1978.[dcvi] [Photograph: Waikoko Bridge] [Photo Caption:] Waikoko Bridge Built: 1912; 1946.[dcvii] Wai‘oli Mission in the 20th Century As Hanalei moved into the 20th century, the descendants of pioneering Wai‘oli missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox restored the old mission buildings and also built a new church building. In 1912, Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church was built by Sam, George, and Albert Wilcox in honor of their parents, Abner and Lucy Wilcox. The new church, which is now one of the most photographed buildings in Hanalei, was constructed just east of the former Wai‘oli Church, which was built in 1841. Albert Spencer Wilcox in particular was a leader in the effort to build the new Hanalei church, which became known as Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church Sanctuary. The green, spired building cost about $10,500 to build, including furnishings. An article in The Garden Island newspaper on October 22, 1912 stated: “a corner store service preceded the dedication in connection with which Reverend W. B. Oleson gave a brief resume of the history of the church. A hermetically sealed copper box containing the current newspapers of the day including The Garden Island was placed in a recess in the corner stone and cemented in by Mrs. S. W. Wilcox...a generous luau hot from the imu followed the dedication service.”[dcviii] Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church was designed in the American Gothic style with a Roman Doric.[dcix] The front gable “is largely filled with an immense stained glass window with a pointed arch.”[dcx] The church is also notable for its bell tower. The bell placed in the bell tower came from the adjacent Wai‘oli Belfry where it had sounded its tones to the congregation since 1843. The October 29, 1912 edition of The Garden Island stated: “The New Church Building just dedicated at Hanalei is one of the most artistic and graceful churches on the Islands. But even more important, perhaps, it is an exceedingly well-built church...acoustically the best type of building with a charming gothic finish of steep roof and pointed windows.”[dcxi] The structure’s fine stained glass windows were said to be “works of art upon which the eyes ever delight to feast.”[dcxii] The windows were said to reflect “all the colors of the rainbow intensified.”[dcxiii] Albert Spencer Wilcox considered the Mission House at Wai‘oli to be in hopeless disrepair in the early 1900s, and he contemplated burning the structure down. After Albert passed away in 1919, the Wai‘oli Mission House as well as the adjoining mission lands were sold to Elsie Wilcox, Mabel Wilcox, and Lucy Etta Wilcox Sloggett (the children of Samuel and Emma Wilcox). The three sisters then undertook an extensive restoration of the Wai‘oli Mission House and Wai‘oli Mission Hall (the former Wai‘oli Church). Prominent Honolulu architect Hart Wood[dcxiv] was chosen to oversee the restoration project, and his plan encompassed the whole of the 20-acre site, including landscaping, fencing, and “draining and leveling of the common for the park.”[dcxv] “I hope to restore everything to its former condition,” wrote Wood, “and to retain the simplicity and unpretentiousness of the original.”[dcxvi] Wood took great care to retain the original features of the house, including the uneven widths of the original floorboards, and the lath and plaster of the interior walls.[dcxvii] Some of the home’s original furnishings still remained in 1920, including Abner’s upholstered rocking chair as well as “a whale oil metal lamp, candlestick, the bookcase, many of Abner and Lucy Wilcox’s books and—remarkably—all the letters of Abner and Lucy Wilcox.”[dcxviii] Once the Wai‘oli Mission House restoration was completed, the Wilcox sisters brought many of the original items owned by their grandparents (Abner and Lucy Wilcox) back to the house, including furniture, bedspreads, and shells. “Pitchers, a mantel clock, inkwells, Shaker boxes, the Chinese work basket and ceramics were returned to Waioli. George Wilcox brought back his mother’s Connecticut album quilt, and Lucy Etta Sloggett brought back her grandparent’s center table.”[dcxix] In 1921, a rosewood table was returned “to its place in the beautiful front room at Waioli,” recalled Ethel Damon, “and as, for the first time in many years, the feet of guests again trooped over the low moss-green sandstone steps and through the broad, window-paneled front door, Etta Sloggett welcomed us all to the old house. That was a beautiful November day.”[dcxx] The restoration was also celebrated with a church service that “reconsecrated its stately walls to the service of the community.”[dcxxi] Samuel Whitney Wilcox spoke to the gathering, and “told in flowing, beautiful Hawaiian of boyhood days at Waioli. His grandson and namesake gave over the old church keys to the Hawaiian leaders of the community. And afterward a great feast, a true paina luau, was there spread out for the visiting multitude.”[dcxxii] In 1922, Elsie and Mabel Wilcox along with Ethel Damon visited the East Coast of the United States to purchase objects for the restored Mission House, including a chest of drawers that had been used by Abner Wilcox’s parents at their home in Harwinton, Connecticut.[dcxxiii] In 1926, the Territory of Hawai‘i constructed a new Wai‘oli schoolhouse, a “spacious new six room building to further meet the needs of the Chinese and Japanese rice and taro farmers, storekeepers, the remaining Hawaiians and other families in the Hanalei valley.”[dcxxiv] The restored church building was used for “well-baby clinics” sponsored by the Territory’s traveling Public Health nurses who were directed by Mabel Wilcox.[dcxxv] Medical assistance was generally not available locally in the early 1900s. Hanalei resident Frank Kurihara recalled, “In the early Twenties,” recalled Frank Kurihara, “you couldn’t afford to get sick, as there were no doctors or hospitals in Hanalei. There used to be a dispensary near the court house that tended to minor cuts and bruises. The nearest hospital was...at Kilauea Plantation. So most of us used traditional Hawaiian remedies for our sprains, cuts, colds etc. The Japanese had a traditional medicine peddler who came once a month to replenish the depleted stock. The horse doctor also came to treat all the ailing horses. All the babies were born with the aid of the midwives, as no one was rich enough to go to the hospital.”[dcxxvi] [Photograph: Wai‘oli Mission House] [Photo Caption:] Wai‘oli Mission House Cookhouse Built: 1834. Main House Built: 1836-1837. A dining room/pantry connected the Mission House to the cookhouse in 1840. In 1843 a rear lānai was constructed. In 1849 a lean-to bedroom was built (and later removed). In 1860, Edward Payson Wilcox added an upstairs bedroom over the dining room and pantry area of the Wai‘oli Mission House. Restoration: 1921; Restoration Architect: Hart Wood; Contractor: Sam B. Goss. National Register of Historic Places: 1973. Extensive repairs were completed on the Wai‘oli Mission House in 1976. The Mission House at Wai‘oli was the residence of the Alexanders from 1836 to 1843, then home to Mr. and Mrs. George B. and Malvina Rowell until 1846. The Wilcoxes lived in the Wai‘oli Mission House from 1846 to 1869. [Photograph: Wai‘oli Mission Hall] [Photo Caption:] Wai‘oli Mission Hall Also Called: Church Hall; Old Wai‘oli Church. Built: 1841 New Shingle Roof: 1851; Pulpit, board floor, and seats added: 1861; Galvanized iron roof installed: 1883. Restoration: 1921. Restoration Architect: Hart Wood. A kitchen wing was added to Wai‘oli Mission Hall in 1934. National Register of Historic Places: 1973. Archeological excavation of interior floor: 1979. A second Wai‘oli Mission Hall restoration took place in 1979-1981. The 1841 Wai‘oli Church served the congregation until 1912 when the new Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church was built. In 1921 the old church building was restored, and is now known as Wai‘oli Mission Hall, or Church Hall. [Photograph: Wai‘oli Church Belfry] [Photo Caption:] Wai‘oli Church Belfry Built: 1841; Restored: 1921. Restoration Architect: Hart Wood. The Wai‘oli Church Belfry underwent a second restoration in 1986-1987. National and State Registers of Historic Places: 1973. [Photograph: Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church] [Photo Caption:] Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church Built: 1912. Architect: Ripley and Reynolds. The head carpenter in the construction of Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church was C. E. Haynes. Architectural Style: American Gothic with a Roman Doric. National and State Registers of Historic Places: 1973. Extensive repairs were completed on the church in 1976. The church’s location is 5-5393A Kūhiō Highway (Route 560). Phone: 808-826-6253. In 1934, a century after the arrival of the Alexanders at Wai‘oli, a lū‘au feast was held to celebrate the Wai‘oli Mission Centennial, the 100th year since the founding of the Wai‘oli mission station by pioneering missionaries William Patterson Alexander and his wife Mary Ann. About 1,000 people, including many Alexander descendants, attended the Centennial along with seven different choir groups from Kaua‘i churches. A memorial address was given by Mary Alexander, the granddaughter of William and Mary Ann Alexander. The church choirs sang classics including “Hawaii Aloha and Na Molokama,” which “brought back the old days.”[dcxxvii] “On Sundays, you could hear their glorious voices, singing the old Hawaiian songs and hymns, and also the songs composed by the famous Hawaiian composer, Alfred Alohikea, at the Waioli Hui Congregational Church in Hanalei...with the Reverend Akiona presiding, the beauty of Hanalei must have inspired Mr. Alohikea to compose all of those songs.” Frank Kurihara[dcxxviii] Also in 1934, to commemorate the Mission Centennial, a wing housing a kitchen was added to Wai‘oli Mission Hall. By 1945, Wai‘oli Church, Hā‘ena Church, and ‘Anini Church had joined to form the Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church, which was a Congregational Church until 1957 when it became a United Church of Christ. The Wai‘oli Mission House was incorporated as a museum in 1952, and Elsie and Mabel Wilcox along with Lucy Etta Wilcox Sloggett established an endowment to guarantee the continued preservation of the historic home, which was opened to the public free of charge. In the 1950s, Wai‘oli Park was leased to the community and became a public park.[dcxxix] A Wai‘oli Church Parsonage was built in 1966. [Photograph: Centennial Group Photo] [Photograph: Wai‘oli Mission House.] “In 1934 mission descendants, especially of Father and Mother Alexander, celebrated at Waioli Church and home the hundredth year since the founding of that remote Mission station. Hawaiian congregations from all Kaui-nei gathered to share and contribute to the church services. Nor will any there ever forget those Hawaiians as they stood on the front verandahs of the old home and sang and sang, one beautiful Hawaiian hymn after another, till the very trees echoed back the sacred sounds.” Ethel Damon[dcxxx] Hanalei Today—Restoring Wai‘oli Mission Extensive repairs to the historic Wai‘oli Mission House were completed in 1976, and a celebration of the event included a program of Hawaiian hymns and songs. An archaeological excavation of the floor of Wai‘oli Mission Hall (the former Wai‘oli Church) took place in the summer of 1979. Analyses of artifacts and midden as well as bone and shell remains revealed an area of adze and fishhook construction that included prehistoric tool forms being used as late as 1832. Also found during the excavation of the church floor were basalt sinkers, evidence of woodworking done with stone adzes, and an area where food preparation and consumption was centered around five separate hearths.[dcxxxi] After the archaeological work was completed, repairs of the 1841 Wai‘oli Mission Hall took place to stabilize the building. A restoration of the Wai‘oli Mission Belfry took place in 1986-1987 and included excavating and re-setting the foundation stones and replacing the original ‘ōhi‘a lehua beams and structural members that had been used to construct the bell tower in 1841.[dcxxxii] Wood for the restoration came from ‘ōhi‘a lehua trees that had been knocked down in Kōke‘e State Park by Hurricane ‘Iwa in 1982. Hurricane ‘Iniki struck Kaua‘i on September 11, 1992 causing severe structural damage to Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church and lifting the building off its foundation. Hurricane ‘Iniki caused more than $3 billion in property damage on Kaua‘i, including damage to more than 70% of the island’s homes, and completely destroying 1,421 homes. The hurricane also damaged the church’s precious stained glass windows. After the hurricane, Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church underwent an extensive restoration, including the replacement of the historic windows with custom made replicas indistinguishable from the originals. Dedication ceremonies for the restored church took place in April of 1994. Congregational hymns at the Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church Sunday service are still sung by the Wai‘oli Church Choir in the Hawaiian language. The hymn versions still used by the choir singers were originally translated by the early missionaries. [Photograph: Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church, showing Wai‘oli Mission Hall (old Wai‘oli Church) in background.] [Photo Caption:] The Wai‘oli Mission has been serving the local congregation continuously since 1834: originally at a meetinghouse structure (no longer standing); from 1841 to 1912 at the first Wai‘oli Church (now Mission Hall); and from 1912 to the present day at Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church.
The Hanalei River Hanalei Valley’s agricultural productivity is largely due to the plentiful water supply provided by the Hanalei River. The watercourse flows some 16 miles through Hanalei Valley and drains a watershed of about 19 square miles. Flow rates on the Hanalei River range from 20 million gallons per day to more than six billion gallons per day.[dcxxxiii] The Hanalei River is one of the five largest rivers in the Islands, and drains into one of the state’s largest bays, Hanalei Bay. [Photograph: Hanalei River.] “The landing is within the mouth of a small river, which carries, for a considerable distance up , from one to three quarters of a fathom, into fresh water, and is further navigable for boats or canoes (drawing three feet) several miles...The scenery is beautiful, and my surprise is that such a favourable situation should so long have been overlooked.”[dcxxxiv] Captain Edward Belcher, 1843[dcxxxv] As the Hanalei River winds its way across the coastal plain, some of its water is diverted into the lo‘i kalo (taro patches) of Hanalei Valley. This water is channeled to and from the fields through a series of canals and ditches that eventually return the water to the river. Water diversions from the Hanalei River were being considered as early as 1915, when Princeville Plantation manager Walter Foss Sanborn received a report by J.M. Lydgate saying that the water “now going steadily to waste on the north side of Kauai may be conveyed to the South side, where it could be disposed of at lucrative rates.”[dcxxxvi] Attempts to grow sugarcane in the Hanalei region had been unsuccessful, but sugarcane continued to thrive on the rest of Kaua‘i. The increasing size of the sugarcane plantations led to the need for more water, and Kaua‘i’s north shore had abundant water sources. Large-scale water diversions of the Hanalei River for use on distant sugarcane plantations began in the early 1900s, in part due to the work of Joseph Hughes Moragne, who was an engineer for the Līhu‘e Plantation from 1919 to 1937. Moragne supervised “the development of a complex water collection and transfer system, one that spanned and connected several watersheds from Hanalei to Koloa.”[dcxxxvii] In 1925, the Ka‘āpoko Tunnel was constructed to bring water from the Hanalei River to Wailua. In 1926, Moragne engineered and built the 6,028 foot Hanalei Tunnel at a cost of $294,261 to divert water from the Hanalei River to Līhu‘e. Beginning at the 1,250-foot elevation of the Hanalei River basin, the Hanalei Tunnel carried water through to the Wailua River basin and down into the Maheo stream, which flows into the north fork of the Wailua River at an elevation of about 700 feet.[dcxxxviii] From the Maheo stream the Stable Storm Ditch carried the water west to a south fork tributary, and then finally to the sugarcane fields of Līhu‘e.[dcxxxix] In 1928, a 3,558-foot tunnel was built at a cost of $150,000 to divert water into the Hanalei Tunnel from the Ka‘āpoko tributary of the Hanalei River.[dcxl] [Photograph: Hanalei River] “Hanalei river is lined with luxuriant foliage, and a boat ride on its smooth bosom, in a bright moonlight, rivals the Arabian Nights enchantment.” Whitney, 1875[dcxli] The Rice Era Many of the historic homes and buildings that stand in Hanalei today were built during the rice era, which began in the Hanalei region in the 1860s. The rice era followed various failed agricultural attempts in the valley, including crops of mulberry trees (to raise silkworms), coffee, tobacco, and sugarcane, as well as attempts to raise cattle. By 1870 rice had become a significant agricultural product throughout the Islands and soon would dominate the Hanalei landscape. In 1879, five Chinese farmers became the first Chinese to lease land from the Princeville Plantation, leasing 42 acres[dcxlii] of Hanalei Valley land for $15/acre/year.[dcxliii] In 1880, an established Chinese rice factoring company, the Chulan Company, leased 300 acres of Hanalei Valley land from the Princeville Plantation for $20/acre/year. The Chulan Company had originally attempted to lease 700 acres, but Princeville Plantation manager Charles Koelling was concerned that Princeville’s upper plateau lands might be less fertile than the lower valley lands, and so he would not grant such a large lease.[dcxliv] By 1882, sugarcane had all but disappeared in Hanalei’s lower valley in favor of rice, and just a small parcel of the valley was still planted in sugarcane. Other nearby valleys were also planted with rice along with virtually all suitable land along Hanalei’s coastal plain. [Photographs: Rice Era] In 1884, the Chinese population of Hanalei had grown to 459, increasing to 689 by 1896.[dcxlv] In 1895, Eric Knudsen wrote in his journal: “Rice field and taro patches covered the flat bottom lands as far as the eye could see...many Chinamen were working in the fields.”[dcxlvi] By the end of the 1800s, rice was a primary agricultural crop in Hawai‘i, second only to sugarcane. In 1892, about 750 acres of the 7,321 acres of rice grown in Hawai‘i were in Hanalei and Wai‘oli valleys. Mokulē‘ia in O‘ahu was the second largest rice producing area in the Islands, with 738 acres in cultivation, followed by Waikīkī, which had 542 acres planted in rice.[dcxlvii] Ninety percent of Hawai‘i’s rice came from Kaua‘i and O‘ahu. In the 1920s, Hanalei was the top rice-producing region, and “every flat area of Hanalei was cultivated in rice.”[dcxlviii] Though Chinese were the predominant ethnic group working in Hawai‘i’s rice industry during its early years, by the 1920s there were about equal numbers of Chinese and Japanese rice growers and millers.[dcxlix] The 1930s saw an influx of Filipino rice farmers in the Hanalei area. “Opium was legal, and sold in small vials. When we were kids, we used to watch the addicts smoke it with their opium pipes, over a small lantern, and all the Chinese bachelors smoked their tobacco with water pipes.” Frank Kurihara[dcl] Changes in the ethnicity of the immigrant population in the early 1900s led to changes in what types of rice were grown. The Japanese population increased by about 30% as the Chinese population steadily decreased. “Hanalei Town in the early twenties,” recalled Frank Kurihara, “was predominately Hawaiian, Japanese, Chinese, Portuguese, some whites, and some other mixed races. It was a small rural town, as laid back as can be.”[dcli] As the Japanese population increased, they soon became the principal rice consumers. The Japanese generally preferred the shorter grained Japanese varieties of rice, which were softer, more glutinous, and more flavorful than the Chinese varieties, which had a harder, starchier grain.[dclii] Rice imports from Japan also increased, rising from about 9½ million pounds in 1905 to nearly 30 million pounds in 1910.[dcliii] The rise of rice as an agricultural product in Hawai‘i was due to several causes that began with the arrival of Captain Cook in 1778 and the subsequent Western influences—including sandalwood traders, whalers, missionaries, and foreign diseases—which caused a severe decline in traditional Hawaiian food production. New governmental structures and land laws enacted by King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) in the mid-1800s allowed non-Hawaiians to buy land. These and other political events led to the availability of many traditional taro farming areas with good irrigation, and in Hanalei these lands were more suitable for growing rice than sugarcane. Immigrant laborers who came to work on Hawai‘i’s sugarcane plantations often finished their contracts after three years, and then were free to start their own enterprises. Rice farming was a logical choice among the many Chinese and other Asian workers in the Islands since there was a strong demand for rice among the Asian community, and rice-growing land was available. Growing and Milling Rice The time it takes to grow a crop of rice, from planting to harvest, is about four months. The rice farmers of Hanalei were kept busy year round, however, by all of the other tasks involved in rice farming, including milling, equipment repair, field preparation, ditch clearing, ditch maintenance, and growing food to eat.[dcliv] Hanalei’s wet climate allowed just one rice crop per year (planted in May), while drier areas on Kaua‘i, such as Hanapēpē, could produce two crops per year.[dclv] In the early years of Hanalei’s rice era, oxen and water buffalo were used to plow the fields. When the fields were ready, usually in May, the farmers planted seed that had gone through a lengthy process that included being soaked in a stream for two days. The seed was germinated on a threshing floor for up to three days, and during this time the seed was covered with wet bags that were lifted and replaced several times daily to provide aeration. The rice seed was then planted in seed beds that were immersed in about two inches of water. Peanut meal or sodium nitrate was added when the plants reached a height of about two inches. After about three weeks the seedlings were tied into bundles. This was generally done in the evening and into the night, and then the next day the seedlings were transplanted into the rice paddies.[dclvi] Small farmers helped each other plant their fields, while large plantations hired many extra workers, known as “planting gangs.” Planters usually walked backwards while holding a bundle in one hand and using the other hand to poke the plants into the ground, planting up to six rows at once. About one week after a field was planted it was flooded to about four inches deep, then harrowed to root up weeds and level the ground. About every three weeks the paddies were drained and weeded. After the second weeding, fertilizer was applied to the dry ground, and after about two weeks the ground would start to crack. Then the fields were flooded again, the grain began to form, and the plant’s green husks filled with a sweet, milky fluid that gradually solidified as the grain turned a golden color. Within a few weeks the fields were drained and the rice was harvested. Introduced Chinese sparrows known as nutmeg mannikins, also called rice birds,[dclvii] had to be constantly scared away from the fields because they drank the milky rice as it matured and also ate the kernels. To deter the birds from damaging the rice crop, poles were set up throughout the fields to hold a system of rock-filled cans and other noise-making devices. These noise makers were all linked together by a cord that was repeatedly pulled to scatter the birds. Motono Haraguchi shot the birds with “old muskets that she filled with powder and stuffed with rags or paper. She did this carrying one child on her back and pregnant with another.”[dclviii] “In the early Twenties,” recalled Frank Kurihara, “you could buy gunpowder, B-B shot, sticks of dynamite in the stores. Even the rice bird guns that looked like a Daniel Boone musket, which we used to chase the rice birds away.”[dclix] Thousands of rice birds would attack the crop as the grains ripened. “If left alone,” recalled Kurihara, “they’ll wipe out a patch in no time. To chase them away, we’d fire our rice bird guns, or rattle tin cans, strung all over the fields. We also ordered silk nets from Japan, which were about ten by thirty feet in area, and strung them all over the fields, like a volleyball net, wherever those pesky birds congregated.”[dclx] When the rice was ready to harvest, the stalks were cut with a serrated sickle and allowed to dry before being bundled with cord made from the native hau tree.[dclxi] The bundles of stalks were brought to the threshing floor and laid out in concentric circles in three layers totaling up to 500 bundles. Threshing took up to five days, and was done by horses attached to ropes tied to a pole at the center of the threshing floor. The horses walked around and around trampling the grain to separate the seed from the stalks, which were raked away as each successive layer was threshed. The horses were eventually replaced by tractors.[dclxii] Winnowing separated the chaff and dust from the grain. The rice was raked into rows aligned with the wind and repeatedly sieved and sifted, and then dried by repeated spreading and raking. Finally, the rice was placed in 100 pound sacks that were sewn closed and stored in a granary. The end of the harvest was celebrated with elaborate banquets held by the rice plantations.[dclxiii] “It was the Prohibition era, so revenue agents made their periodic raids for contraband liquor. Contraband sake was made by most of the farmers for their hired hands. So before the revenue agents came to search the premises, it was us kids’ job to take it out into the fields and hide it before they came. Of course, they could never find it, as the rice was about three feet tall, and after they left we’d bring it back to the house. Word always came from someone preceding the raid, so no one ever got caught.” Frank Kurihara[dclxiv] By 1893, there were at least five rice mills in the Hanalei region, including one near the Hanalei River about midway between the Hanalei Bridge and Hanalei town. The earliest rice mills usually consisted of two large mill stones that raised a pestle-shaped stone and dropped it into a stone bowl. One of these old style mills was the See Tai Wai Rice Mill located in Hanalei town near the Say Dock House. Other early rice mills were located at Wai‘oli, Waikoko, and Wainiha.[dclxv] Rice mills operated for up to three months after harvest, and the smaller rice farms brought their rice to the mills run by the larger plantations, such as Shing Kon Sung (Soy Sung Wai), located in the bend in the Hanalei River near the rivermouth.[dclxvi] Chinjiro Tasaka farmed rice on the east side of Hanalei Bay at Pu‘upōā Marsh (Kamo‘omaika‘i Fishpond) and took his rice by horse to the Hanalei River where it was carried across by boat and then hauled in Chock Chin’s wagon to the Chock Chin Rice Mill at Waikoko.[dclxvii] Rice milling was done to clean and shell the threshed rice, removing the hulls and bran. The mills’ wheels were usually powered by water, so the rice mills were usually located near a river or other water source.[dclxviii] The rice was husked and polished, then graded and bagged for shipment to market. An adjacent granary held paddy rice and bran rice middling used for animal feed. The waters of the Hanalei River were an integral component of rice growing and milling, powering the mill’s machinery and driving the network of belts and conveyor systems. Runoff also provided hot baths that soothed the sore muscles of the rice workers. At the Haraguchi Rice Mill on the Hanalei River, workers were “treated to a traditional Japanese furo bath following their workday.”[dclxix] In 1910, 503 farms in the Hawaiian Islands grew rice on 9,435 acres of land. A major boost in Hawai‘i’s rice production occurred between 1910 and 1917. Total acres farmed in rice then began to decrease rapidly due to increased production in California where rice acreage climbed from 1,400 to 80,000 acres between 1912 and 1917. By 1919, there were 546 rice farms in the Hawaiian Islands, but total acreage had dropped to 5,801 acres. California rice producers continued to dominate the rice industry in the early 1920s, when hired hands on Hanalei’s rice farms were paid about a dollar a day and worked six days per week.[dclxx] “By the Thirties,” recalled Frank Kurihara, “wages came up to one dollar and fifty cents. [Rice farm workers] had a place to sleep, four meals a day, breakfast at six, lunch at ten, coffee break at two, and supper at five, plus all the sake to drink at supper with their meal.”[dclxxi] Total rice acreage in Hawai‘i in 1930 was 2,045 acres on 227 farms. By 1933 just 825 acres in the Islands were farmed in rice.”[dclxxii] Diesel engines eventually replaced the region’s water-powered rice mills. The leather-type wheels of the new hullers caused less breakage of the rice than the stone rollers of the earlier Chinese stone mills. In the 1930s, the Haraguchis ordered a Japanese-made huller as well as hulling equipment from New York’s Englebert Huller Company.[dclxxiii] “The great stretch of lowland between the Hanalei and Waioli rivers, now planted to rice fields,” wrote Ethel Damon in 1931, “was in the old days an undrained swamp.”[dclxxiv] This swampland, however, may have actually been former taro lands that had been abandoned after the rapid decline of the native Hawaiian population throughout the 1800s. Living quarters for workers on larger rice plantations usually included a bath house, an outdoor area for cooking, a kitchen and dining room, and a central living area where the workers slept on cots. At the center there was usually a shrine to Kwan Ti, the Chinese God of war.[dclxxv] When the Japanese became the predominant workers in the rice industry, a Japanese Hongwanji would often be constructed near the plantation. As Hawai‘i’s rice market declined, some Hanalei farmers began to grow specialized mochi rice, which was sold and consumed locally. Hanalei resident Frank Kurihara remembered visits by Hawaiian friends “bringing fish, laulaus, or kalua pig. The Chinese friends came with roast pork manapuas and other Chinese delicacies. The Portuguese friends came over with malasadas, sweet bread and wine. In turn, our Mom would give them mochi, sushi, and other delicacies she’d prepared, also a bottle of sake for everyone.”[dclxxvi] Hanalei Pier Today one of the most scenic views anywhere is from the end of the Hanalei Pier. The pier is surrounded by the turquoise waters of Hanalei Bay and the waterfall-lined mountains wrapping around the crescent-shaped shoreline. On the grass lawn near the base of the Hanalei Pier is Black Pot Beach Park, the site of many local gatherings.[dclxxvii] People of all ages surf the waves that break alongside the pier and all down the beach. Hanalei Pier is also a favorite place for local kids to play, and they often jump from the pier into the water. Swimmers should be extremely careful, however, as the water around the pier is often very shallow, particularly at low tide, and serious injuries have resulted from people diving from the pier. [Photograph: Rivermouth; upper Hanalei Valley.] “Its mouth, where [Hanalei Bay] opens on the Pacific, is from two to three miles wide, but the boundary mountains gradually approach each other, so that five miles from the sea a narrow gorge of wonderful beauty alone remains.” Isabella Bird Bishop, 1873[dclxxviii] The first Hanalei Pier was constructed of wood in 1892 on the eastern side of Hanalei Bay near the mouth of the Hanalei River. In 1911, when the rice industry in Hanalei was thriving, construction began on a longer, more substantial pier at the same location. The new Hanalei Pier was completed in 1912, using the relatively new technique of reinforced concrete. The architectural design was provided by the firm of Conney and Morris, and the pier had a wooden deck. Hanalei Pier was built primarily for use by rice farmers needing to load their cargo on ships to get it to market. The milled rice was brought down the Hanalei River on small, flat-bottom boats. After being transported downriver, the rice was offloaded at a landing near the rivermouth so that the small river boats didn’t have to enter the ocean bay. The mouth of the Hanalei River is just adjacent to Hanalei Pier, and provided easy access to the rice plantations of Hanalei Valley. Much of the valley’s rice “arrived at the pier area on the black barges of the rice plantations up the river.”[dclxxix] From the mauka landing, the milled rice was shuttled to the end of the pier on a set of iron railroad tracks and then loaded onto boats.[dclxxx] Small whale boats known as “lighters” carried rice to steamers anchored out in Hanalei Bay.[dclxxxi] At the foot of Hanalei Pier was a freight storage warehouse also connected to the pier by railroad tracks.[dclxxxii] Freight transferred to and from the boats in Hanalei Bay included farm supplies and food, such as tinned products. Some freighters bringing cargo to Hanalei had to wait outside the bay, particularly when the ocean was rough. Interisland steamers docked in the deeper waters of Hanalei Bay while cargo was rowed to and from the pier. [Photograph: Hanalei Pier] [Photo Caption:] Hanalei Pier Originally Built: 1892. Rebuilt: 1912. Architectural Design: Conney and Morris. Concrete Deck and Extension: 1921. Shed Built at End of Pier: 1940s.**[dclxxxiii]** Re-Roofed 1973. Hawai‘i and National Registers of Historic Places: 1979. Pier Rebuilt after Hurricane ‘Iniki: 1992-1993. Walter Foss Sanborn, the manager of the Princeville Plantation, also served as Hanalei’s Wharfinger, supervising the loading and unloading of vessels at Hanalei Pier and checking freight and bills of lading. Eventually a derrick was installed at the end of the pier to load and unload cargo going out to, or coming in from, the freighters. Just once each month these freighters would come up to the northern part of the island, stopping at Ahukini, Anahola, Kīlauea, and Hanalei.[dclxxxiv] Community members would gather at the pier when ships arrived in Hanalei Bay with cargo. On these “boat days” local children sometimes swam out to the ships and “merchants from all the stores arrived to sort out their goods, farmers loaded theirs, and individuals came to pick up special orders...Arriving provisions included huge redwood boxes with ice packed in rice husks.”[dclxxxv] The children of Walter Foss Sanborn enjoyed trying to catch a ride on a whaling boat, and were sometimes rewarded with fresh United States Mainland fruit including peaches and plums. The mischievous kids once swam out to the freighter, which was considered dangerous, and led to admonishments by their parents. The interisland steamer brought freight to Hanalei about once a month, and store owners and rice planters headed for the pier with their horse-pulled carts and wagons. The daughter of Walter Foss Sanborn recalled hiding along the road in front of the Deverill house on the beach road, and “hooting and hollering when the wagons went by,” and then suppressing their laughter as the drivers cursed “while they struggled to keep their shying horses under control.”[dclxxxvi] The wooden deck of Hanalei Pier was replaced with reinforced concrete in 1921, and the pier was extended. Princeville Ranch soon began shipping cattle from Hanalei Bay, and in 1927 a temporary corral was built on the beach near Hanalei Pier.[dclxxxvii] In the early 1930s, a breakwater was built at Nāwiliwili Bay, which then became a preferred loading and unloading point for freight on Kaua‘i. The rice industry, which had thrived in the valleys of Hanalei and Wai‘oli since the late 1800s, was in decline. Significant rice exports from Hanalei fell off sharply, as did the commercial use of Hanalei Pier. Hanalei Pier has been seen in many Hollywood movies, often as a backdrop. Scenes from Bird of Paradise were filmed on Hanalei Bay in 1950, and South Pacific was filmed there in 1957. During the 1960 filming of Wackiest Ship in the Army, starring Jack Lemmon, the filming barge at Hanalei came loose twice, causing damage to Hanalei Pier. Repairs to the pier were later financed by the film studio and the barge company. [Map: Hanalei in the Rice Era] Hanalei in the Early 1900s—A Journey through Old Hanalei The Hanalei region was particularly prosperous from about 1890 to 1925 due to the rice industry. This wealth led to the opening of numerous stores and mills that dotted the landscape from Hanalei Bridge to Hanalei town and beyond.[dclxxxviii] Also constructed during this period were many places of worship, including Christian churches and Buddhist temples, as well as Japanese and Chinese language schools. Local stores were central to the rice farming community’s social life, particularly on Sundays when residents gathered to exchange news and make business deals. Stores provided items for sale that could not be grown or produced locally, including “canned goods, staples like flour and sugar, butchered meat, baked goods, kerosene, and later gasoline, yardage and sewing supplies, hats, clothing, watches, and some farm supplies.”[dclxxxix] The 1914 Polk-Husted Directory of Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii listed eight general merchandising stores (seven Chinese-owned) and twelve Chinese rice planting companies in the Hanalei region.[dcxc] Some Chinese-owned stores in Hanalei in the early 1900s were: Ah Hoy Store (later called Ching Ma Leong Store); Chong Hing Store; T. S. See Wo Store; Ching Young Store; Katayama Store; and Chock Chin Store (later called C. Akeoni Store, Lau Store, and Hanalei Store[dcxci]). There was also “a Chinese store about half-way up the valley,”[dcxcii]and the Japanese-owned Hamamura Store. Ah Hoy Store, located just above Hanalei Bridge on the Hanalei side of the road, was a general merchandise store and auto livery. Ah Hoy was later renamed Ching Ma Leong Store and relocated to the Trader Building (rebuilt after Hurricane ‘Iniki, now the site of the Dolphin Building) on the banks of the Hanalei River just before Hanalei town.[dcxciii]Across the road from Ma Leong was the Takahashi rice farm. After crossing over the Hanalei Bridge, turning up the river road (now ‘Ōhiki Road) led to the rice farms of the Haraguchi family and the Atuck Wong family. Also on the river road was the Haraguchi Rice Mill,[dcxciv] built in 1930 on the site of the Chinese-owned Man Sing Rice Mill,[dcxcv] which had burned down earlier that year. [Photograph: Haraguchi Rice Mill] [Photo Caption:] Haraguchi Rice Mill Built: 1930, on site of Man Sing (“Million Success”) Rice Mill.
Hawai‘i and National Register of Historic Places: 1983. The Haraguchis—A Tradition of Farming The initial founders of the Haraguchi rice farming operation in Hanalei were Tomijiro and Ine Haraguchi. They came to Hawai‘i from Asa Kura Maru in Fukuoka Prefecture, Japan more than three-quarters of a century ago. Tomijiro and Ine had four sons: Kahyohei (Kahei), Sueji, Fujio, and Fusao. Along with farming rice, the Haraguchi family also fished the waters of Hanalei Bay. Fusao had a fishing sampan built at Kukui‘ula and used it for commercial fishing based out of Hanalei Bay. The boat was named Asa Kura Maru after the Haraguchi’s home village in Japan.[dcxcvi] Kahyohei Haraguchi, whose name was “shortened to Kahei because people had difficulty pronouncing his full name,”[dcxcvii] worked as a contract laborer for the Gay & Robinson sugar plantation and then worked in the pineapple industry in Kapa‘a while supplementing his income by growing rice in Hā‘ena near the current site of the Hanalei Colony Resort.[dcxcviii] Kahyohei and his Japanese-born wife Motono had one daughter, Thelma Matsuo, and three sons: William, Isami, and Tsutomu. Motono passed away on December 14, 2002 at the age of 99, and at the time had thirteen grandchildren, 24 great grandchildren, and one great great grandchild. William Haraguchi, the first son of Kahei and Motono, was born in Kapa‘a in 1922 and grew up on Kaua‘i’s north shore. William worked for many years at the Haraguchi Rice Mill, milling rice for farms as far away as Kapa‘a. The Haraguchi family continued their Hanalei rice farming operation during a time when many other farms and rice mills throughout the Islands were forced to shut down. In the 1930s the Haraguchis farmed about 75 acres of rice. In 1949 they modified a gasoline-powered, ¾-horse, clipper tractor and later purchased a combine.[dcxcix] When the Haraguchi Rice Mill finally shut down in 1960, it was the last rice mill operating in the Hanalei region. The Haraguchi’s Hanalei rice farm, like many other rice farms throughout the Hawaiian Islands, had become unprofitable due to United States Mainland competition, damage to the crops in the fields by rice birds,[dcc] and other problems. Some rice farms switched to other crops and some rice mills were converted to other uses, including the Haraguchi Rice Mill building, which was later used to mill taro. The Haraguchi family’s tradition of farming in Hanalei Valley is now on its fifth generation and counting. Today the Haraguchis continue to farm large expanses of taro in Hanalei Valley (see Part 5). [Photograph: William Haraguchi.] [Caption:] William Haraguchi has been honored as one of Kaua‘i’s “Living Legends.” Just upriver from the Haraguchi Rice Mill on the west bank of the river across from the Man Sung Wai Rice Mill,[dcci] the rice farmers of a Chinese fraternal society built a Chinese Temple as well as a clubhouse and social hall known as the Yee Hing Society Community Home.[dccii] The Yee Hing served various functions for the charitable association called Yee Hing Hui, and was a place where “bachelor Chinese men and travelers found a ready welcome to live there or spend a few days gossiping or gambling, playing ma jong or rolling dice.”[dcciii] A large room on the upper floor of the Yee Hing was used for dinners and banquets. Rooms on the lower floor were rented to older Chinese workers,[dcciv] and “vegetables pigs, chickens and ducks were grown and raised.”[dccv] The Yee Hing also served as a Chinese Language School for children. Sundays in particular drew large crowds at Yee Hing, which for a time was also the home of Chinese school teacher Wong Lee Yau.[dccvi] After the decline of the Chinese population in the Hanalei region, Princeville Ranch manager Fred Conant had the Yee Hing building torn down.[dccvii] Another rice era structure located along ‘Ōhiki Road was a Japanese Hongwanji used by Japanese Buddhists of the rice farming community. Altar shrines from the Hongwanji were later relocated to a newly built Hongwanji in Kapa‘a.[dccviii] On the lower western slopes of Hanalei Valley is the Hanalei Chinese Cemetery, also known as Ah Goong San (Grandfathers’ Mountain) and often referred to as the Community Cemetery.[dccix] The Chinese Cemetery covers a piece of land about 525 feet north to south, and about 200 feet from east to west, with at least 75 tombstones. A semi-circular cement altar at the Cemetery serves as a “mass grave monument for single Chinese men,”[dccx]and was erected in 1906 by the Chinese fraternal society known as Yee Hop Tong. When the mass grave monument in the Hanalei Chinese Cemetery was built in 1906, the Manchu Emperor still reigned in China. Most other similar monuments in the Islands were built after the Chinese Republic was established in 1912.[dccxi] After ten years of burial at the Chinese Cemetery, according to tradition, “the body is exhumed and the bones are carefully collected, cleaned, arranged in certain order, and reburied in a large urn in the reserved section.”[dccxii] Chinese Society members met at the cemetery the day before Ching Ming Day (Decoration Day) every April to clean up the gravesites and maintain the general area. On Ching Ming Day food was placed at the center of the altar for the departed souls. Typical offerings included “five bowls of rice, five cups of whiskey, a platter of cooked chicken (male), cooked pork, cooked bean curd, cooked tofu, a platter of Chinese pastries, five oranges and five tangerines and a Chinese roast pig.”[dccxiii] Fire crackers were set off, and incense was burned as well as candle punks. After the ceremony everyone went to the Yee Hing where the food items were consumed. Gravesites in the Chinese Cemetery date to at least the 1930s. The site is shown in an 1848 Land Court Awards map created before significant Chinese immigration to Hawai‘i took place, and thus was likely previously used by Hawaiians. Most of the tombstones at the Chinese Cemetery are inscribed with Chinese characters. Past advisors and caretakers of the Chinese Cemetery included “Mr. Chong Hing, Mr. Wong Wo Tuck, Mr. Say Dock, Mr. Sam Kent Ho, Mr. Larry Ching, Mr. Ma Leong, and Mr. Harry Ho.”[dccxiv] Further up the river road (now ‘Ōhiki Road) past the Chinese Cemetery was the home of a Spanish family named Pisante. In this general area upriver from Hanalei Bridge on both sides of the river, some rice era buildings are still standing, including: the Mal Quick House (1925); the Wong House (on a 1910 rice mill site); the Haraguchi House (1930s); the Mike Fitzgerald House (1925); and the Jed Mamaril House (1930s).[dccxv] Back on the Government Road (Route 560) and proceeding toward Hanalei town there were a series of rice farms and rice era stores. About ¼-mile from Hanalei Bridge on the mountain side of the road was Chong Hing Store, a general merchandise and grocery store owned by the grandfather of Kaua‘i County Council member Kaipo Asing. Past Chong Hing were the rice farms of the Ueda, Takenaka, Liu, and Miiki families, and further in toward the mountains was the Lum farm.[dccxvi] Seaward (makai) of the main road between Chong Hing and the Trader Building[dccxvii] was the Japanese-owned Hamamura Store.[dccxviii] The land on the other side of the Government Road is enclosed within the great bend in the Hanalei River. In ancient times this land was called Pā‘ele, which means “Black” or “Dark.”[dccxix] During the rice era this area between the Hanalei Bridge and the Hanalei rivermouth was the site of the Shing Kon Sung Rice Plantation (formerly Soy Sung Wai). Today on this land is the Hanalei Gardens Farm and Bison Ranch, which may be seen from the roadside pullout on the hill descending toward the bridge. After crossing over the HanaleiBridge and heading toward Hanalei town, the area may be seen across the river on the right. On the seaward side of the road at the eastern end of Hanalei town was the Trader Building (site of Ching Ma Leong Store (formerly Ah Hoy Store), and Mrs. Shiraishi’s Barber Shop. Just west of the barber shop was I. Nakatsuka General Store,[dccxx] which operated from about 1900 until the 1950s. The Nakatsuka family lived behind the store, which later became part of the Tahiti Nui building (see Part 5). Near the eastern end of Hanalei town lived the Shak, Tasaka, and Hoe families as well as Alfred ‘Alohikea. On the mountains side of the road was the home of the Ho Pak Yet family. During the second half of the 1900s this was the residence of Harry Ho, a school teacher and principal on Kaua‘i’s north shore at Hanalei School and Hā‘ena School.[dccxxi] Harry Ho was a respected local historian, and in the 1960s the Ho residence was known as the Hanalei Museum and Snack Shop. Harry Ho passed away in 1989 at the age of 83.[dccxxii] The museum was destroyed by Hurricane ‘Iniki in 1992. After the death of Harry Ho, the Hanalei Museum was run by Wayne Harada. [Photograph: Harry Ho] [Photograph: Hanalei Museum] The Ching Youngs One of the most prominent and successful early rice farming families living in the Hanalei region was the Ching Young family. Descendants of the original Ching Youngs continue to play influential roles in the Hanalei community today. Around 1900, Ching Yuk Hom (Ching Young) came to Hawai‘i from China’s Chung San District. Ching Young initially settled in Kapa‘a on Kaua‘i’s east side where he ran a restaurant (a Chop Suey House) and mercantile store called Kwong Chong Kee with his brother and other partners (the Tam family).[dccxxiii] Ching Young and one of his brothers later leased a piece of land in Hanalei from the Wilcox family[dccxxiv] and opened a rice mill and store. The store building was constructed in 1905-1906. According to Lawrence Ching, the store “may have been operated by a Mr. Chu (or Chew) before the Ching family took over in 1907.”[dccxxv] Ching Young married Dang Ha Ching, who was born in Hanapēpē, Kaua‘i, and their union arranged by a traditional Chinese matchmaker. Dang Ha Ching was “the third and youngest child of Dang Dat Po and Dang Chang Shee.”[dccxxvi] Dang Ha Ching’s (Mrs. Ching Young’s) wedding dress was shipped to Hawai‘i from Hong Kong, and is now in the collection of the Kaua‘i Museum. The newlyweds lived in Kapa‘a where they gave birth to Florence and Ellen, the first two of their eight children.[dccxxvii] The Ching Young family moved to Hanalei in 1911 to work full time at Ching Young Store and Ching Young Rice Mill. In 1914, the Ching Youngs became the sole owners of the enterprise when they bought out co-owner Tam Kee of Kapa‘a. Supplies such as dry goods and denim that were needed to stock the Ching Young Store were brought by the steamships that came to Hanalei to transport the valley’s rice.[dccxxviii] While living in Hanalei, Mr. and Mrs. Ching Young gave birth to six more children: Dora, Laura, Lawrence, Douglas, Calvin, and Janet. The Great Depression of 1929 caused financial hardship for the Ching Youngs, and in the early 1930s Mr. Ching Young was debilitated by a major stroke. He passed away in October of 1933 when his youngest child was just four years of age. After the death of Mr. Ching Young, Mrs. Ching Young continued to run the store and rice mill, and raise her eight children. A deeply religious person, Mrs. Ching Young maintained a Taoist altar in her home and faithfully practiced her Chinese traditions. In the 1930s, competition from California along with other factors caused a steady decline in Hawai‘i’s rice market. This brought continued hardships for the Ching Young Store and Ching Young Rice Mill. Supplies to stock the store were cut off in 1936 by a west coast shipping strike, and 5,000 bags of rice were stored at the mill to help supply the Hawaiian Islands with rice. The Ching Young Rice Mill was closed in the mid-1940s, but the Ching Young Store remained in business. After the 1941 bombing of Pearl Harbor, which entered the United States into World War II, Hawai‘i’s business climate changed. The war created a demand for products, and helped insure the survival of the Ching Young Store, which again supplied rice statewide. Mrs. Ching retired in 1950 but remained active in the Kaua‘i community. Her eldest son, Lawrence L.T. “Larry” Ching and his wife Jeanie took over the family business, which prospered throughout the 1950s and 1960s when sugarcane was a driving force of Hawai‘i’s economy. A post office was opened at the Ching Young Store in the 1950s. Mrs. Ching passed away in 1967 at the age of 80. Larry Ching continued the operation of the store as tourism became a major part of Kaua‘i’s economy. In the 1960s and on into the 1970s, and Larry began to develop the Ching Young Village Shopping Center. In 1975 a new Hanalei Post Office was built on the land next to Ching Young Store, which was owned by Mrs. Clorinda Nakashima. The Ching Young Store was sold to the locally owned Big Save Family of Markets, and the Chings continued to develop the Center’s many shops and businesses. Larry Ching passed away on September 7, 1997.[dccxxix] Today the Ching Young Center continues to be run by the Ching family. The original Ching Young Store building is located on the eastern side of the expanded Ching Young Village Shopping Center. The old store building is now occupied by two art and gift stores called Evolve Love and On the Road to Hanalei. [Photograph: Ching Young Store] [Photo Caption:] Ching Young Store Built: 1905-1906 by Mr. Chu [Chew]. Status: Still standing, in commercial use. The Kodama Barber Shop was located just west of Ching Young Store in the area between the current Hanalei Post Office and Big Save Market. A Chinese Christian (Congregational) Church was located across the road from Ching Young Store, in the area where the Hanalei Center (Wailele Building) is now located. Frank Kurihara referred to the Chinese Church building as “Mr. Low’s Chinese School and Temple.”[dccxxx] Reverend Tsui Hin Wong was the church minister in 1930.[dccxxxi]Next to the church was a Parsonage, which later became the office of Ironwood Realty before the building was destroyed by Hurricane ‘Iniki in 1992.[dccxxxii] The Say Dock House is located just west of where the Chinese Church and Parsonage were located, and is today one of the few remaining rice farmer homes still standing in the Islands. A concrete threshing floor, though quite aged and broken, still remains in front of the Say Dock House. Two other rice farmer homes in Hanalei had concrete threshing floors, but neither remains standing. [Photograph: Say Dock House] [Photo Caption:] Say Dock House Built: 1895. Restored: 1988. National and State Registers of Historic Places: 1988 Private Residence-Please Do Not Go On Property. One of Hanalei’s earliest rice mills was the See Tai Wai Rice Mill, located near the Say Dock House. See Tai Wai was an old style mill that used large mill stones to lift a pestle-shaped stone that was dropped into a stone bowl.[dccxxxiii] The T. S. See Wo Store was located just west of the Say Dock House and across the road, at the current site of theChurch of Latter Day Saints.[dccxxxiv] Also on the makai (seaward) side of the main road in this area was Katayama Store, and Takenaka Auto Repair [Takahashi’s Garage and Repair Shop]. West of the Auto Repair shop wasNagaoaka Restaurant and Bakery, considered by some to be “the best eatery in town.”[dccxxxv] Just past the restaurant was a Gas Station. Some of the families living in Hanalei town during the rice era were the Matsuda, Ah To, Say, Homma, Lee, Kam, and Au families, according to Frank Kurihara.[dccxxxvi] The 1914 Polk-Husted Directory listed some rice plantations and stores of the Hanalei region included: Ah San, Ah Ching, Chock Lung, Chong Sing, Chong Wai, Hop Sing, Man Sing Co, Sing Fat Wai Co. Sing Yick Co, Soy Sung Wai Co., Tai Kan, Tai Sing Wai, and Sing Wai Co.[dccxxxvii] Located at Mālolo Road and Route 560 was the Hanalei Shingon, a Japanese Shingon Temple that began operating as early as 1903. Next to the Shingon was a Japanese Language School[dccxxxviii] built in 1934. The Shingon Temple became a popular gathering place that served as the site for various local functions and celebrations, including weddings and funerals as well as the Obon dori celebration held each July.[dccxxxix] The north shore community looked forward to the traditional Bon Dance, which included a carnival with food and games. Eventually the event became so popular it had to be held across the street in Wai‘oli Park.[dccxl] Things changed quickly after the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1941. The United States entered World War II, and many of the most influential Japanese and Japanese-Americans[dccxli]—including community leaders, ministers, Buddhist priests, and principals of Japanese schools—were detained and sent to internment camps. Initially the Japanese and Japanese-Americans detainees were taken to Sand Island, which began its use as an internment camp on December 8, 1941. About 1,500 residents of the Hawaiian Islands were part of about 115,000 Americans of Japanese ancestry interned in ten internment camps on the United States Mainland. (Note: The Civil Liberties Act of 1988 provided restitution for the internment, allocating $1.6 billion to 82,000 people in 1999.) The forced internments of the Japanese teachers and ministers of the Hanalei Shingon brought an end to the use of the Temple for religious purposes. The building was later moved across the main road to a site behind the Lily Pond House where it was used as a clubhouse for the community’s young Japanese men.[dccxlii] Despite the harsh and often racist treatment Japanese residents received after the Pearl Harbor attack, many Japanese-Americans throughout the Hawaiian Islands still wished to show their loyalty and volunteered to join the war effort. They formed the 100th Infantry Battalion and 442nd Infantry Regimental Combat Team, which became the most decorated units in United States history, earning more than 18,000 total awards for their valorous fighting (despite suffering high casualty rates) in Italy, Germany, and France. In June of 1944 in Italy, the 100th Infantry Battalion joined ranks with the 442nd Infantry Regimental Combat Team. The 442nd/100th fought in Italy before participating in the invasion in southern France. For their heroic efforts despite heavy losses in Italy, France, and Germany, the 442nd became known as the “Purple Heart Battalion.” The motto of the 442nd was “Go For Broke,” a Hawaiian slang term referring to risking everything. In October of 1944 they broke through German forces and liberated the French town of Bruyeres from the Nazis, and then rescued 211 members of the “Lost Battalion” (1st Battalion, 141st Infantry Battalion, 36th Infantry Division), in Biffontaine, losing more than half of their own soldiers in the process—800 soldiers in a one month period. The “Lost Battalion,” known as the “Alamo Regiment” was trapped behind enemy lines for five days, surrounded by Germans and out of food and ammunition. The rescue of the “Lost Battalion” was considered a pivotal battle in the war, and one of the most famous battles of military history. Awards given to the 442nd included 9,486 Purple Hearts, 52 Distinguished Service Crosses, 8 Distinguished Unit Citations, and 21 Congressional Medals of Honor. [Photograph: Japanese Shingon Temple] [Photo Caption:] Hanalei Shingon—Japanese Shingon Temple Built: 1934. Moved: Around the start of World War II. Original Site: Behind current site of St. Williams Catholic Church on Mālolo Road and Route 560. [Photograph: Japanese Language School] [Photo Caption:] Japanese Language School Operating as early as 1903. Status: No longer standing. In 1955, St. Williams Catholic Church was built on the original site of the Shingon Temple and Language School. This was made possible due to a land trade between the Catholic Church and Gaylord Parke Wilcox, the son of Emma Washburn Lyman and Samuel Whitney Wilcox, the fifth son of missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox. The former Japanese Language School building was moved to a lot on the shoreline of Hanalei Bay, where the former Sloggett Beach House once stood, and became part of the Sasaki home complex. [dccxliii] The church bell now suspended between two poles in front of St. Williams is the bell from the former Catholic Chapel that was built near the Hanalei rivermouth in 1864 (see Part 3). [Photograph: St. Williams Catholic Church] [Photo caption:] St. Williams Catholic Church Built: 1955. Chock Chin Chock Chin was a prominent Chinese rice farmer and store owner in Hanalei. The father of twelve children from three different wives, Chock Chin built a home on leased land on the mountain side of the Government Road (Route 560) near the current site of Wai‘oli Park.[dccxliv] Across the street from the Chock Chin Residence was the Chock Chin Store, established in 1901.[dccxlv] The site included a bakery, restaurant, butcher shop, tailor, blacksmith, and saloon, as well as a general store. The whole Chock Chin family worked at the family business. Mr. Chock Chin managed the store and was the baker. His wife Chun Shee (Mrs. Chock Chin) was the cook. The children worked the cash register and delivered bills. One of the sons had the job of “driving the freight wagon pulled by two white mules.”[dccxlvi] Chock Chin also engaged in various other entrepreneurial activities, including selling small dishes of ice cream at the Kīlauea Ballpark. Chock Chin’s bakery sold bread with guava jelly for ten cents a loaf, and it was a favorite lunch item of local children who walked to the store from nearby Hanalei School. Chock Chin also raised “papayas, mango, avocado and loquat, mulberry, bananas, cows, chickens and pigs. There was a garden for sweet potato, corn, sugar cane and string beans and also a grove of bamboo.”[dccxlvii] The name of the Chock Chin Store was later changed to C. Akeoni, Lau Store and then Hanalei Store in 1931 after Chock Chin died and Mrs. Chock Chin sold the store to Charles Lau, a rice farmer who later farmed taro. The Hanalei Store remained open as a restaurant, meat market, and general store until 1941.[dccxlviii] Chock Chin dug a lotus pond (now called The Lily Pond) alongside the main road in Hanalei town where it may still be seen today. A freshwater spring replenished the pond, which Chock Chin stocked with edible lotus roots and fish.[dccxlix] The lotus plants failed to grow, and later Mrs. Chock Chin planted water lilies in the pond. Later the Tasakas planted lilies in the pond and stocked it with carp. Unfortunately the fish were washed away by the 1946 tsunami.[dccl] [Photograph: Lily Pond and Tasaka Residence] [Photo Caption:] The Lily Pond and the Tasaka Residence & Saimin The Lily Pond was dug by Chinese rice farmer Chock Chin. The Lily Pond House and the Tasaka Residence are Private Residences—Please Do Not Go On Property. [Sidebar:] [Photograph: Kenichi Tasaka] [Photo caption:] Kenichi Tasaka Kenichi Tasaka was born in 1896, the second of eight children of Chinjiro and Kiyo Tasaka. Chinjiro worked at Kīlauea Sugar Plantation before leasing land near Pu‘upōā Marsh (Kamo‘omaika‘i Fishpond), where he farmed rice for nearly two decades. As a child Kenichi helped his father on the rice farm, worked for the Birkmyres, Deverills, and Sanborns, painted cars in Honolulu, worked as a mechanic for the Kilauea Sugar Plantation, painted houses, and worked for the County of Kaua‘i Water Works Division.[dccli] In 1927, Kenichi married Asayo Kodama and they had four children. Around 1940, the Tasakas built a home next to Wai‘oli Park and began farming rice nearby. Kenichi eventually took over his father’s rice farm at Wai‘oli, and then later farmed taro, as did his brother Bobby Tasaka. During World War II the two front rooms of Kenichi and Asayo Tasaka’s home was used as a store and saimin stand.[dcclii] “Kenichi Tasaka became a well-known grass slipper maker in his later years. He made them from rushes growing in the swamps. He lived to a ripe old age of one hundred.” Frank Kurihara[dccliii] The Lily Pond House is a small, two-story structure that was originally located on the shoreline of Hanalei Bay[dccliv] where it was used as a caretaker’s quarters for the manager of Kaua‘i Electric.[dcclv] The house was later moved on coconut palm rollers to its current site next to Wai‘oli Park.[dcclvi] [Photograph: Lily Pond House] [Photo Caption:] Lily Pond House Built: 1933. Private Residence—Please Do Not Go On Property. The Hanalei Post Office The location of the Hanalei Post Office changed many times over the years depending upon who was postmaster or postmistress. It was “a peripatetic institution, its changing location primarily determined by who ran the post office.”[dcclvii] Serving as postmaster from 1846 to 1856 was Captain John Kellett, who was also Hanalei’s Pilot of the Port and customs collector. Succeeding Kellett as postmaster was Wai‘oli missionary Abner Wilcox, who served at the post until 1863. Other early postmasters of the Hanalei region included “Capt. A. White (1865-1866), Judge H. J. Wana (acting PM from September, 1867 to 1870), Wm. Kellett (1870-?, with Rev. Wilcox, Capt. John Ross (1870?-1876), A Conradt (1876-1878), C. Koelling (1878-1883), Jas. M. Gibson (1883-1885), J. C. Long (1885-1889), C. Koelling (1889-1892), J. M. Radway (1892-1893), A. B. Scrimgeour (1893) and C. H. Willis (1894-1900).”[1] Many of these individuals were associated with the Princeville Plantation.[dcclviii] In the late 1800s, the Hanalei Post Office was located along the former road down into Hanalei Valley. The steep, winding route had three switchbacking S-curves going down the hill and passing the Princeville Plantation House (Kikiula), and a succession of Princeville Plantation managers served as postmasters.[dcclix] The post office was eventually moved down the hill to the small, busy factory village that grew up on the east bank of the Hanalei River around the site of the Hanalei Sugar Mill, which began operating in 1862 just downriver from the current site of the Hanalei Bridge (built in 1912).[dcclx] During the 1870s, mail came to Hanalei by schooner from Honolulu, and irregular weekly steamer service and overland mail were also provided. From the Hanalei post office, carriers brought mail to Lumaha‘i, Wainiha, Hā‘ena, and Kalalau. The Kalalau carrier “wrapped mail in banana leaves to keep it from getting soaked.”[dcclxi] Around the turn of the century, the Hanalei Post Office was located near Hanalei town at the site of the Hanalei Hotel, also known as the Deverill House, where Sarah Deverill served as the postmistress. In 1915, the Hanalei Post Office was located on the land of Sheriff James K. Lota on Weke Road, across the street from the home of Charlie Forward.[dcclxii] The gravestone of James Lota (1873-1937) is located alongside Wai‘oli Mission Hall (the old Wai‘oli Church). In the 1920s, the post office was located on the mountain side (mauka) of the Government Road at Mahi Mahi Road. Sometime around World War II, when the postmistress was Julia Lota (Sheriff James Lota’s sister, who later became Julia Rodriques), the post office was moved to a location near the current Aloha School, on the seaward side of the Government Road (Route 560),[dcclxiii] where the old post office boxes may still be seen today. In the 1950s the Hanalei post office was relocated to Ching Young Store. In 1975, the current Hanalei Post Office was built next to the Ching Young Village Shopping Center on the land of postmistress Clorinda Nakashima. [Photograph: Old Hanalei Post Office Boxes] [Photo Caption:] Old Hanalei Post Office Boxes Status: Boxes still standing alongside Route 560. At the western end of town near Wai‘oli Church were the Masada and Tadao Nakatsuji families,[dcclxiv] and on the seaward side of the road was the District Courthouse and Jail. Behind the Courthouse was the home of Judge Aarona. The jail was always empty, according to Frank Kurihara, “as there was no crime to speak of in those days.”[dcclxv] Still standing across the street from the Courthouse is the 1912 Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church as well as the old Wai‘oli Church, which was built in 1841 and is now called Mission Hall. Back behind the trees is the old Wai‘oli Mission House, built from 1834 to 1837 (see Part 2). West of the mission area is Hanalei School, which originated as part of the missionary station founded at Wai‘oli in 1834 to prepare native children to become teachers in Kaua‘i’s common schools (see Part 2). Students were initially taught in the Hawaiian language with the goal of allowing the natives to read the Bible, which was translated into Hawaiian by the missionaries. (The first complete translation of the Bible into the Hawaiian language was completed on May 10, 1839. Entitled Ka Palapala Hemolele, the Bible was published in three volumes, totaling 2,331 pages.) Initially the school at Wai‘oli also offered vocational training as well as training for teachers who went on to teach at other schools on Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau.[dcclxvi] In 1862, Hanalei’s first English School was established by Louise Johnson with financial support provided by the Hawaiian Government. In 1881, the Hanalei English School formally became a government school (public school). Enrollment at Hanalei School in 1904 was 48 boys and 48 girls, and the teachers were Florence and Lena Deverill.[dcclxvii] The school’s principal in 1914, according to the Polk-Husted Directory, was Mrs. S. A. Cliffe.[dcclxviii] A new Hanalei School Building was constructed by the Territory of Hawai‘i in 1926, and the Old Hanalei School Building was later moved to the center of Hanalei Town near the Aku Road intersection with Route 560. The restored schoolhouse building is now home to several businesses including the Hanalei Surf Company, Gourmet Restaurant, and some small art and clothing shops. A new Hanalei School was built very near its former location. Enrollment at Hanalei School in the 1900s ranged between about 50 and 120 students until about 1970. Today enrollment is about 300 students.[dcclxix] [Photograph: Hanalei School] [Photograph: Old Hanalei School Building] [Photo Caption:] Old Hanalei School Building Built in 1926. Current Use: Commercial Center—Stores, Restaurant. National and State Registers of Historic Places: 1990. Just east of the Wai‘oli Bridge once stood the Nakatsuji Rice Mill (formerly Hop Chong Wai Rice Mill), managed by Ah Hoy and located just east of the Wai‘oli Bridge. Across from the Nakatsuji Rice Mill lived retired Kealia Plantation manager Charlie McKee.[dcclxx] Some families in this area in the early to mid-1900s were the Wong, Hashimoto, Kobayashi, Hiramoto, Koga, Morimoto, and Zaima families, as well as the Azeka and Matsuda farms.[dcclxxi] Another rice mill of the Hanalei region in the early 1900s was the Hiramoto Rice Mill (formerly Hee Fat Rice Mill), located at Waipā. Chinese rice farmer Hee Fat was among the largest of Kaua‘i’s rice farmers, cultivating about 600 acres of rice in Hanalei and Kapa‘a.[dcclxxii] At the far end of the coastal plain in the ahupua‘a of Waikoko was theChock Chin Rice Mill. Weke Road and Beach Houses of Hanalei Weke Road was a dirt road until the early 1920s when rock was quarried from the eastern side of the Hanalei rivermouth. Mules brought the rock over a floating bridge constructed across the Hanalei River and held by cables. The rock was then crushed near the pier and then used to pave Weke Road. Mahi Mahi Road is located about ½-mile from Hanalei Pier, and was also paved around 1920. Mahi Mahi Road provides access from Route 560 (formerly known as the Government Road) to Weke Road and the beaches of Hanalei. Frank Kurihara recalled some of the “beachfront families” of the early to mid-1900s, including the Birkmyre, Conant, Gardner, Lota, Morishige, Nakamura, Kealoha, Kai, Pa, Kuehu, Nakea, and Pauole families.[dcclxxiii] [Photograph: Hukilau in Hanalei Bay] [Photo Caption:] “Few foreign craft entered the wide bay which had been first surveyed, and that under difficulties of contrary winds, by Captain George Vancouver in 1794. During winter months tumultuous northerly gales often gather up ocean swells and sweep them into the confines of the bay itself where relentless undercurrents suck them out to sea again. During summer months, to this day, the kilo watches the sea from a height, and catching sight of ripples and shadows betokening a school of fish, hastens word to waiting fishermen on the beach who row out beyond the speeding fish and drop their long net around them, then, often up to their necks in the sea, and strung out along both sides of the net back to the shore, all stand ready for the hukilau, the hauling in of loaded net, sparkling with the silver flash of leaping fish” Ethel Damon[dcclxxiv] [Photograph: Black Pot Beach Park] Black Pot Beach Park and the Hukilau Black Pot Beach Park is located between Hanalei Pier and the Hanalei rivermouth. The name of the park hearkens to the big black pot that was used to boil the day’s catch of fish, which was shared among everyone. The tradition of the hukilau involved a group of people working together to entrap fish using a seine net.[dcclxxv] During the mid-1900s the tradition of the hukilau was still commonly practiced in Hanalei Bay. A kilo (spotter) stood atop a high spot overlooking the bay waters and used hand signals to tell the konohiki, or local leader, where the school of fish was located. Fishermen in the water then surrounded the school of fish with a net and pulled it toward shore. The co-operative effort of spotting, netting, and gathering the fish brought the community together, and they all shared in the catch. One konohiki was Alfred ‘Alohikea, the Hawaiian composer of the well-known song Hanohano Hanalei and many other popular local songs. Hanohano Hanalei Hanohano Hanalei i ka ua nui E pakika kahi limu o Manu‘akepa I laila ho‘i au i ‘ike iho ai I ka hana hu‘i konikoni i ka ‘ili Aloha kahi one o pua rose I ka ho‘ope ‘ia e ka hunakai ‘Akāhi hoi au a ‘ike i ka nani Hanohano Hanalei i ka ua nui. Translation The glory of Hanalei is its heavy rain, [And its] slippery seaweed of Manu‘akepa There I felt A cool, tingling sensation on my skin Greetings to the sand and the roses Drenched by the sea spray Never have I seen such splendor The glory of Hanalei is its heavy rain. Song by Alfred ‘Alohikea Elbert and Mahoe, 1970[dcclxxvi] Frank Kurihara remembered ‘Alohikea as “a big man with a sunny disposition, and a smile for all the young ladies,” noting that, “the songs he composed are still sung at all the Hawaiian get-togethers.”[dcclxxvii] [Photograph: Lumaha‘i Beach and Valley] Lumaha‘i Hula [Translation by Kimo Alama.] “Grand is Hanalei in the pouring rain, Slippery is the limu of Manu‘akepa. Swim in the waters of Lumaha‘i, The misty-faced lehua of Lulu‘upali. Heated is Hā‘ena in the sea spray, What does Lohi‘au, the lover do? The story is told, Slippery is the limu of Manu‘akepa.” From a chant to Queen Kapi‘olani entitled Hanohano Hanalei. Alfred ‘Alohikea wrote the melody.[dcclxxviii] The original Hawaiian language version of Lumaha‘i Hula: “Hanohano Hanalei i ka ua nui He pakika i ka limu o Manu‘akepa. ‘Au‘au i ka wai o Lumaha‘i Ka lehua maka noe o Lulu‘upali. ‘E‘ena Hā‘ena i ka ‘ehu kai A he aha la o ka hana o Lohi‘au ipo. Ha‘ina ‘ia mai ana ka puana He pakika i ka limu o Manu‘akepa.”[dcclxxix] Note: According to Lumaha‘i Hula. Kimo Alama, Keaulana Collection, Bishop Museum Archives MS GRP 329 Box 5.37: “The limu...is a slippery grass referred to as “ka limu ka kaha kanaka o Manu‘akepa” or “the man throwing moss at Manu‘akepa.”] “Hā‘ena” means “red hot” and alludes to the passion of Lohi‘au, Pele’s legendary lover. Lohi‘au came from Hā‘ena that is also famous for its sea spray (said to cool down the passion that’s so hot);” “The limu...is a slippery grass referred to as “ka limu ka kaha kanaka o Manu‘akepa” or “the man throwing moss at Manu‘akepa.” The renowned host at Black Pot Park in the 1950s and 1960s was local fisherman Kalani Tai Hook.[dcclxxx]Today his daughter Cathy Ham Young is a prominent and beloved local resident of the Hanalei region along with many other Tai Hook descendants. Two frequently caught species during the hukilau were akule (bigeye scad) and ‘opelu (mackerel scad). “In akule, or halalu,[dcclxxxi] or ‘opelu season,” recalled Frank Kurihara, “the fish came into the bays by the hordes to spawn.”[dcclxxxii] Many Hawaiian fishermen observed certain rituals and practices, including maintaining kū‘ula (stone-carved gods used to attract fish) with offerings of mai‘a (banana plant) or the root of ‘awa (kava). Also said to help was “clean living.” A Japanese fishing temple was located along the riverbank below the “pine tree road” that led up to the Birkmyre home, which was seen in the 1957 movie South Pacific. Another “fishing temple” was located on the opposite side of the Hanalei River just up from the former site of the Catholic Church. Local fishermen often visited the shrines and also held annual celebrations attended by friends and family.[dcclxxxiii] As the Hanalei region moved into the 20th century, prominent individuals and families—including the Sanborn, Fayé, and Wilcox families—constructed second homes along Weke Road on the shoreline of Hanalei Bay. Several of these beach homes still stand today as reminders of Hanalei’s storied past. Some of these historic structures are detailed below, beginning at the eastern end of Weke Road. [Photograph: Kauikeōlani—Albert Spencer Wilcox Beach House] [Photo Caption:] Kauikeōlani—Albert Spencer Wilcox Beach House Built: 1899 State Register of Historic Places: 1987. National Register of Historic Places: 1993. Albert Spencer Wilcox (1844-1919) built the main house of his estate Kauikeōlani on Hanalei Bay in 1899. The son of pioneering missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox, Albert lived in the house with his wife Emma Kauikeōlani Napoleon Mahelona, who was the widow of Samuel Mahelona. Albert and Emma named their Hanalei home after Emma’s namesake, Kauikeōlani, which means “Beautiful vision in the morning mist,”[dcclxxxiv] and is also translated as “Place in the skies [of] heaven.”[dcclxxxv] Albert Wilcox had purchased an interest in the Princeville Plantation in 1892, and he secured complete ownership by 1899. He sold the Princeville lands in June of 1916, but maintained ownership of Kauikeōlani as well as “the old Mission Home, and some kuleanas along the beach.”[dcclxxxvi] Albert had grown up in the Wai‘oli Mission House, and in 1912 he led the effort to build Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church in honor of his parents. Kauikeōlani is also known as the Albert Spencer Wilcox Beach House. Kauikeōlani was originally comprised of three bedrooms but has grown in size over the years. The home is now divided into seven bedrooms and six baths, and serves as a vacation rental that is often used for weddings and other occasions. The outside of the historic beach home is covered with sand, a technique that was used at the time to provide termite protection. A twelve-foot wide verandah wraps around part of the home. Kauikeōlani Estate is currently owned by Patsy Wilcox Sheehan [Alice Patricia Kuaihelani Wilcox Sheehan], the great great granddaughter of Abner and Lucy Wilcox. Today the central parlor portion of Kauikeōlani remains somewhat of a living museum. [Photograph: Kanoa Pond] [Photo caption:] Historic Kanoa Pond is located on the western side of Hanalei River near the rivermouth, on the property of the Albert Spencer Wilcox House. The pond once covered about ten acres, and in the mid-1800s it was owned by agricultural entrepreneur Charles Titcomb who sold it to Princeville Plantation owner R. C. Wyllie in 1863.[dcclxxxvii] Helen Sanborn Davis, who grew up in Hanalei in the early 1900s, recalled that the pond “was stocked with fish and Samoan crabs for the dining table.”[dcclxxxviii] Kanoa Pond was also a lilypond where locals caught bass and blue gill. [Photograph: Kamo‘omaika‘i Fishpond] [Photo caption:] Kamo‘omaika‘i Fishpond, also known as Pu‘upōā Marsh, was located on the east side of the Hanalei River near the rivermouth, near where the Princeville Hotel is now located. The historic fishpond dates to ancient times, and was placed on the National and State Register of Historic Places in 1982. [Photograph: Old Hanalei Pavilion] [Photo Caption:] Old Hanalei Pavilion Original wooden building was destroyed by the 1957 tsunami. A new Hanalei Pavilion was constructed in 1960 using concrete and hollow tiles. The Sanborn Beach House, which still stands today, was built in 1910 on the shoreline of Hanalei Bay. Thatched homes of native Hawaiians had been located along Hanalei Bay for many centuries before Western contact, but the Sanborn house was the first Hanalei shoreline home built using Western-style materials, and thus is often called Hanalei’s first “beach house.” Numerous other Western-style homes were built along Hanalei Bay in the early 1900s, but most were later torn down due to damage caused by tsunamis, hurricanes, and the general aging of time. The Sanborn Beach House remains as one of the last of the old beach homes of Hanalei. Built in the plantation style, the Sanborn home features a hip roof and wide window frames, single wall board and batten architecture, and trim balustrade posts. [Photograph: Sanborn Beach House] [Photo Caption:] Sanborn Beach House Built: 1910. Architect/Builder: Walter Foss Sanborn. Architecture: Craftsman/Plantation Style. Walter Foss Sanborn first came to Kaua‘i in 1901, serving as the U.S. District Commissioner for Kauai and Federal Court Representative, and working for McBryde Sugar Company.[dcclxxxix] Sanborn was later hired as the manager of Princeville Ranch and remained in the position until 1927, initially working for Princeville Ranch owner Albert Spencer Wilcox and then for the new owners, the Līhu‘e Plantation. After becoming manager of the Princeville Ranch, Sanborn lived in the Princeville Ranch House, which the Sanborn family referred to as the “Mauka House” because the Princeville Plantation House was mauka (toward the mountains) from the Sanborn’s beach house on Hanalei Bay.[dccxc] Walter Foss Sanborn lived in the Princeville Ranch House with his wife, Lena Deverill Sanborn, who had been raised on Kaua‘i. In 1907, Walter Foss Sanborn and Lena Deverill Sanborn gave birth to a girl, Helen, and then later to three boys: Walter F. Jr., Percy, and John (Jack). During this time the Sanborns lived primarily at the Princeville Ranch House, which served as the center of operations for the large Princeville cattle ranch. When Helen was ten years old she began attending Punahou School on O‘ahu. Her brothers were sent to the Honolulu Military Academy at Kaimukī, which later became the Punahou Farm School. When a tsunami struck Kaua‘i’s north shore in 1957, it moved the Sanborn home about ten feet off its foundation.[dccxci] Walter and Lena’s daughter Helen (later Helen Sanborn Davis Hibbard), credited an avocado tree for halting the movement of the house, which suffered only minor structural damage and was simply re-posted in its new location.[dccxcii] Jack Sanborn, one of the three sons of Walter Foss Sanborn, died in 1970, leaving the house and one acre of property to his three sons: Pete, Alan, and Bill. In 1972, the beachfront property was divided into three sections. At this time a wing of the house (a master bedroom) on the western side off the kitchen was removed and relocated across Weke Road for use as a two-bedroom house, known as the Reed House, which became part of the Sanborn Poi Mill run by Walter Foss Sanborn. A porch was later added on the side of the structure that had formerly been joined to the Sanborn house, and later there were other additions. Where a wing of the Sanborn beach house had been removed, a breakfast room was added. The poi mill operated until the mid 1950s[dccxciii] when it was taken over by new owners who eventually abandoned their effort after buyers fell behind in payments. The poi mill’s new owners were Kenichi Tasaka, Harold Kobayashi, and Michi Fukuda.[dccxciv] “The Hanalei District of Kauai is not going to be the same without Walter Foss Sanborn. His tall, active figure, still erect in his late seventies, his shock of unruly hair, now snowy, his twinkling eyes and an assumption of gruffness that they belied, had been familiar to the district since he came there some 55 years ago to manage the late Albert S. Wilcox’s plantation. Now in retirement, he made his home in a rambling shoreside dwelling, surrounded by broad, carefully tended lawns and gardens, within reach of the village social center. Outspoken always, Walter Sanborn sometimes antagonized associates who could not believe that anyone could pull so many facts out of his mind without grievous error. Yet that was what he did, and differences of opinion were swept away before an avalanche of facts. Behind his gruff exterior was a soft heart, as every child knew instinctively. He was a sucker for kids.” Honolulu Advertiser Editorial[dccxcv] Just west of the Sanborn house on Weke Road is the Fayé Beach House, built in 1915 by Hans Peter Fayé, nephew of sugar planter Valdemar “Kanuka” Knudsen. The two-story wood-framed Hanalei structure was built by Fayé as a vacation home. A second story is set into the steeply-pitched gable roof. The structure was damaged by the 1957 tsunami and required repairs. Hans Peter Fayé was born in Norway and moved to Hawai‘i in 1880. He later developed sugar plantations on western Kaua‘i, harvesting his first crop in 1886 with the help of Chinese laborers provided by Leong Pah On, who was known as Kaua‘i’s “Rice King.”[dccxcvi] In 1893, H. P. Fayé married Margaret Lindsey at Moloa‘a, and they had eight children. Fayé’s Mana Sugar Company merged with Kekaha Sugar Company in 1898, and Fayé managed the operation for the next three decades. H. P. Fayé’s son Lindsay later managed Kekaha Sugar Company. Another son, Alan Fayé, managed the Waimea Sugar Company, a plantation that was run by the Fayé family. Remnants of the sugar mill can be seen today in Waimea town. [Photograph: Fayé Beach House] [Photo Caption:] Fayé Beach House Built: 1915. Just up from the Fayé Beach House in Hanalei, on the other side of Weke Road, is the former Princeville Ranch Manager’s House. The home was built under the direction of Fred Conant, who became manager of the Princeville Plantation in 1927. Later the home became the residence of Larry and Jeanie Ching. The home is a private residence—please do not go on the property. [Photograph: Bounty House] [Photo Caption:] The Bounty House In 1914, Charles, Elsie, and Mabel Wilcox and their parents Samuel and Emma Wilcox, along with Ethel Damon, bought five adjoining beachfront lots in Hanalei at an auction. Mabel Wilcox and her brother then planned the house named Mahamoku, which means “Island of peace.”[dccxcvii] Mabel Wilcox may have worked with Honolulu architect Clinton B. Ripley in creating the design and building specifications of Mahamoku, since the Wilcox family was working with him closely at the time in designing an addition to the Grove Farm plantation house in Līhu‘e. Ripley was later chosen by Mabel to design the Mahelona Hospital in Kapa‘a.[dccxcviii] Mahamoku is a 1½-story, L-shaped, wood-framed house built by Sam Itchioka between September and November of 1914.[dccxcix] During construction, Samuel Wilcox and three of his children, Charles, Elsie, and Mabel frequently visited the site and occasionally suggested changes to the house plans. For more than two weeks of September, storms prevented the Wilcoxes from reaching the north shore as “heavy rains...washed out all [the] bridges between Lihue and Hanalei.”[dccc] Mahamoku’s board and batten walls are utilize vertical redwood boards in double wall construction. The home’s high-pitched, gable roof creates an interior loft area, and the home’s interior is described as “barn-like” with “darkness contributing to the atmosphere of rest and comfort at the edge of the ocean and with bright, breathtaking scenic views of Hanalei on all sides.”[dccci] Cantilevered loft balconies extend from each end of the home and are covered by overhanging eaves. A series of windows in the central living area allow tradewind breezes to cool the house. Itchioka took it upon himself to add a three-window dormer on the ocean side of Mahamoku. The dormer was strongly disapproved of by Mabel Wilcox, yet it was not changed. [Photograph: Mahamoku] [Photo Caption:] Mahamoku—Mabel and Charles Wilcox House Built: 1914. Designer: Mabel Isabel Wilcox. Builder: Sam Itchioka Style: American Arts and Crafts (Variation of Bungalow Style).
Part 5 Hanalei Today—Art and Nature (1950—2006) Hollywood Comes to Hanalei Perhaps the most influential factor in bringing Hanalei before the eyes of the world and ushering in a new era of tourism was the region’s use as a setting for motion pictures. This began in the 1950s, and since that time many major movies have been filmed on Kaua‘i and in the Hanalei area. The island continues to draw filmmakers from around the world, popularizing the once remote northern shore. The following movies include scenes filmed in the Hanalei area: Pagan Love Song (1950); Bird of Paradise (1950);Miss Sadie Thompson (1953); Beachhead (1953); Naked Paradise/Thunder Over Hawaii (1956); South Pacific (1957); She Gods of Shark Reef (1958); Wackiest Ship in the Army (1960); Paradise Hawaiian Style (1964); Acapulco Gold (1976);Seven (1978); Behold Hawai‘i (1981); Uncommon Valor (1983); and Dragonfly (2002). The first major movie to be filmed totally on Kaua‘i was Pagan Love Song (1950), a Technicolor musical in which Kaua‘i represented Tahiti, with some scenes filmed in Hanalei. Pagan Love Song is based on the William S. Stone novelTahiti Landfall, and named after a 1929 song by Nacio Herb Brown and Arthur Freed. The plot involves a half-American, half-Tahitian girl, Mimi Bennett, played by a well-tanned and black-wigged Esther Williams. Mimi is ready to leave Tahiti, but stays when she meets an Ohio schoolteacher (Howard Keel as Hazard Endicott), who inherited a dilapidated coconut plantation. Hazard falls for her, unaware that she is not a native girl but instead is a sophisticated visitor on vacation. The location filming of Pagan Love Song was part of a newly developing trend of bringing authentic scenery to the screen for the millions of GI’s returning from World War II. Highlights of the movie include Esther Williams’ water ballet. [Photograph: Pagan Love Song] The 1951 film Bird of Paradise was filmed on Kaua‘i and features scenes of Hanalei Bay. A Technicolor Polynesian epic, Bird of Paradise was based on a popular 1932 film starring Joel McCrea and Dolores Del Rio, and a 1911 stage play. Louis Jordan plays a French sailor visiting the South Seas with his friend, played by Jeff Chandler. The plot involves a Frenchman who comes to the South Pacific seeking peace and tranquility. He falls in love with a local girl (Debra Paget) who must offer herself to the volcano god as a sacrifice to prevent an eruption from destroying the people and their homes. Falling for the island girl leads the Frenchman to deal with the serious consequences of breaking local taboos as the girl is subject to becoming a human sacrifice to the volcano. Highlights include hundreds of Hawaiian dancers, and a memorable landing of a Polynesian voyaging canoe near Hanalei Pier. [Photograph: Bird of Paradise] Rita Hayworth starred in the 1953 film Miss Sadie Thompson about a nightclub singer with a storied past who travels to New Caledonia (Kaua‘i, with scenes in Hanalei), and encounters some tough U.S. Marines. Miss Sadie Thompson (1953) was a remake of the 1928 film Sadie Thompson starring Gloria Swanson, and the 1932 film Rain starring Joan Crawford. José Ferrer plays the pious preacher Arthur Davidson who tries to save the soul of Miss Thompson but instead loses his own. The film co-stars Aldo Ray, who plays a marine sergeant attracted to Sadie. [Photograph: Miss Sadie Thompson] Scenes in Beachhead (1954) were filmed at Hanalei Pier in 1953. The plot involves a courageous unit of U.S. Marines before a massive U.S. assault. Kaua‘i represents a dense jungle island taken over by the Japanese.[dcccii] The marines search for a planter on Bougainville who has information about a minefield and the planter’s beautiful daughter. All but one of the U.S. Marines are killed in an ambush and then the planter and his daughter, along with the Marine, journey toward safety. The movie stars a young Tony Curtis as well as Frank Lovejoy and Mary Murphy. [Photograph: Beachhead] Naked Paradise/Thunder Over Hawaii (1957) was filmed on Kaua‘i in 1956, including scenes at Hanalei Bay.[dccciii] The movie’s plot involves three modern-day pirates (New York hoods) who sail a yacht around the Islands and rob plantation owners. The owner of their getaway vessel, a local schooner, is Duke (Richard Denning), who later played the Governor on the Hawaii Five-O television series.[dccciv] Zac (Leslie Bradley) is a criminal gang leader who claims he is a toy manufacturer but secretly attempts to steal the plantation payroll, while Zac’s mistress Max (Beverly Garland) claims to be his secretary. A hurricane leads to confrontation between Zac and Duke. [Photograph: Naked Paradise] Filming of South Pacific (1958), one of the biggest box office successes of the 1950s, began in August of 1957 in Hanalei and Hā‘ena, representing French New Caledonia.[dcccv] Filming was disrupted by a major tsunami that hit Kaua‘i’s north shore on March 9, 1957, knocking out the old Kalihiwai bridge and blocking trucks bringing heavy filming equipment to the movie sets. South Pacific takes place during World War II and involves WAVE officer Nellie Forbush (played by Mitzi Gaynor) who falls in love with the wealthy Frenchman Emile De Becque (Rossano Brazzi), whose assistance is requested by the Navy for a dangerous reconnaissance mission. De Becque had earlier fled his hometown after killing a man, and refuses to help the U.S. Navy. Nellie declines De Becque’s proposal of marriage due to her prejudice after she learns of his mixed-race children by his first wife, causing De Becque to accept the Navy’s request to go on the dangerous mission. Accompanying him on the mission is Lt. Joseph Cable (John Kerr), who also displays prejudice when he rejects the possibility of marrying Liat (France Nuyen), the daughter of Tokinese trader Bloody Mary (Juanita Hall). During their mission, Cable is killed, and De Becque is apparently lost, leading Nellie to hope and pray for his safe return, and forcing her to see the error of her prejudiced attitudes. A comedic element in the film is provided by Luther Billis, played by Ray Walston.[dcccvi] Opening scenes of South Pacific were filmed near the mouth of the Hanalei River, and the elegant Birkmyre Estate overlooking Hanalei Bay was used as the French planter’s home.[dcccvii] Numerous other Hanalei scenes are shown throughout the movie. Mitzi Gaynor’s famous rendition of Wash That Man Right Out of My Hair was filmed at nearby Lumaha‘i Beach, while Makana Mountain in Hā‘ena was the mystical island of Bali Hai. There was also a great deal of footage from Mākua (Tunnels) Beach to the west of Hanalei, and hundreds of local schoolchildren and other Kaua‘i residents were utilized as extras.[dcccviii] [Photograph: South Pacific] She Gods of Shark Reef (1958) was filmed at Hanalei and Hā‘ena sites representing a tropical paradise ruled by a stone god. The plot involves two American brothers who are escaped convicts that become shipwrecked on a tropical island inhabited by lovely and exotic, pearl-diving women. The beautiful maidens enact various rituals, and one of the women is chosen to be sacrificed to the sharks. Fortunately she is saved by one of the Americans who is in love with her, and they flee to civilization. The other brother, however, isn’t so lucky, falling prey to the sharks when he attempts to steal pearls. Starring in the fantasy film are Lisa Montell, Don Durant, and Bill Cord. [Photograph: She Gods of Shark Reef] In Wackiest Ship in the Army (1961), Kaua‘i represents a South Pacific island held by Japan during WWII, and Hanalei Bay is the site of a New Guinea Allied base.[dcccix] Jack Lemmon portrays Lieutenant Rip Crandall, captain of the U.S.S. Echo. Crandall is in charge of a crew of misfit sailors, one of whom is played by Ricky Nelson. Their mission is to transport an Australian spy into enemy territory so he can spy on the Japanese. During filming in 1960, vintage army transports were driven to Hanalei by National Guardsmen, who played Japanese and Allied soldiers in the movie. The filming barge at Hanalei twice came loose, damaging Hanalei Pier, which required repairs that were paid for by the film studio and barge company. [Photograph: Wackiest Ship in the Army] Elvis Presley’s Paradise Hawaiian Style (1965) includes scenes filmed at Princeville Airport as well as Līhu‘e airport.[dcccx] The plot involves Rick Richards (Elvis Presley), who runs a tour aircraft business in the Hawaiian Islands. Richards is grounded after a mishap in which his helicopter runs a car off the road, a car driven by federal aviation official Donald Beldon (John Doucette). Richards gets into trouble due to his affection for different women, including a secretary played by Suzanna Leigh. [Photograph: Paradise Hawaiian Style] Acapulco Gold (1978) includes scenes filmed in the Hanalei area in 1976. The film tells the story of drug smugglers who hijack yachts and smuggle their illegal substances offshore. A chase ensues onshore and the criminals are brought to justice. The film stars Robert Lansing, Marjoe Gortner, and Ed Nelson. [Photograph: Acapulco Gold] Seven (1979) is a low-budget adventure film that includes scenes filmed in the Hanalei area in 1978. The move is a tongue-in-cheek comedy that centers around seven men hired by the Federal government to kill some professional criminals and stop a crime syndicate whose members are talented in the martial arts. A $7 million reward is at stake. William Smith plays the head of the U.S. intelligence team in Hawai‘i, and Christopher Joy and Ed Parker also star in the movie. [Photograph: Seven] Scenes in Behold Hawaii (1983) were filmed in 1981 in Hanalei town with footage of the traditional Polynesian voyaging canoe Hōkūle‘a sailing off of Hanalei Bay. The plot involves Hawaiian youths rediscovering their heritage and their ancestors’ spiritual beliefs. Behold Hawaii was the first feature film done in the IMAX format and shown on a five-story tall screen.[dcccxi]The cast included Kanani Velasco, Blaine Kia, and Kimo Kahoano. [Photograph: Behold Hawaii] In 1983, Hanalei’s scenic taro patches became Vietnamese rice paddies in the film Uncommon Valor (1983). Twelve separate sets on Kaua‘i represented locations in Southeast Asia, and Hanalei Valley was the site of the film’s daring rescue of G.I.’s from the Viet Cong. The plot of Uncommon Valor involves Vietnam Veteran Colonel Rhodes (Gene Hackman) who returns to Laos after the war to rescue his G.I. son, who is being held as a prisoner of war, since 1972, in a Laotian prison camp. Helping Colonel Rhodes is oil baron MacGregor (Robert Stack) who funds the operation. The controversial content of Uncommon Valor precluded use of military helicopters, so the filmmakers spent $1 million to rent two Vietnam-era Huey helicopters and ship them to the Islands for the for the rescue scene in Hanalei Valley. Patrick Swayze, Randall “Tex” Cobb, and Robert Stack also starred in the movie. [Photograph: Uncommon Valor] In Dragonfly (2002), Princeville Airport represents a remote Venezuelan airport, and other scenes were filmed over the nearby mountains and elsewhere on Kaua‘i. Kevin Costner portrays emergency room doctor Joe Darrow, the husband of pediatric oncologist Emily Darrow (Susanna Thompson), who is doing humanitarian work in the Venezuelan mountains when she dies in a bus crash due to a mud and rock slide. After Emily’s death, Joe begins to see mysterious signs (including dragonflies) as well as more specific messages communicated through Emily’s former patients. The mysterious messages lead Dr. Darrow to travel to Venezuela, where he makes an amazing discovery (revealed in footnote).[dcccxii] Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge Most of the taro patches in Hanalei Valley are on land that is part of the 917-acre Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, designated in 1972 to help protect the endangered native waterbirds and other wildlife that inhabits the region. The Refuge is located just east of the town of Hanalei, and extends from the Hanalei Bridge up into Hanalei Valley and along the coastal plain. The Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge is located from 22-12-00 to 22-14-30 north latitude, and from 159-27-30 to 159-30-00 west longitude. The Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge is unique among federal wildlife refuges in that about 120 acres of Refuge land are leased to taro farmers, with about 80 acres used for grazing. Taro farming in Hanalei Valley helps to perpetuate an ancient Hawaiian cultural tradition and provides quality wetland habitat for endangered waterbirds. In 1980, the Refuge area was designated as the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge Historic and Archaeological District. It was also placed on the National and State Register of Historic Places.
Hurricanes and Tsunamis Life on a tropical island in the middle of the Pacific Ocean includes the possibility of various natural disasters, including landslides, volcanic eruptions, earthquakes, and floods, as well as the most destructive events in the Hawaiian Islands—the dreaded hurricanes and tsunamis (tidal waves). The last two Hawaiian hurricanes have unleashed their power primarily on Kaua‘i: Hurricane ‘Iwa struck Kaua‘i in 1982, damaging many structures in the Hanalei region; and Hurricane ‘Iniki, by far the most devastating, made a direct hit on Kaua‘i on September 11, 1992. Hurricane ‘Iniki began brewing far to the southeast of the Hawaiian Island, and winds within the storm slowly grew to more than 100 miles per hour as the whole hurricane slowly moved north-northwest at about 20 miles per hour. Eventually the hurricane’s path turned due north and it made a direct hit on Kaua‘i. [Photograph: Hurricane ‘Iniki above island of Kaua‘i] For well over an hour, Kaua‘i’s north shore residents endured ferocious winds as they huddled in shelters throughout the island. Windows were smashed by debris that filled the air and crashed violently into buildings. Sometimes a whole roof would detach and lift upward in one large piece before breaking up in the vortex of wind. Entire houses were blown off their foundations. Then suddenly the wind stopped and some people went outside. It was still cloudy all around, but straight above there was pure blue sky, which was a welcome sight amidst all the destruction. The hurricane had not passed, however, but instead was actually directly overhead—they were right in the middle of the hurricane’s eye! Within minutes, as the hurricane’s eye moved past, the full force of the hurricane was felt again, this time all at once in a devastating rush of wind with gusts over 100 miles per hour. Because the wind was now going in the opposite direction, structures that had been weakened to the point of collapse by the first half of the hurricane were now quickly finished off as the destruction continued. As Hurricane ‘Iniki proceeded over the island of Kaua‘i, one ferocious gust of wind within the hurricane was clocked at 227 miles per hour, a measurement that was taken by the Navy’s Mākaha Ridge radar station. Soon after that digital readout was sent, the wind gauging equipment was blown off the mountain. Hurricane ‘Iniki caused more than $3 billion in property damage on Kaua‘i, including damage to more than 70% of the island’s homes. Island-wide, about 14,000 homes and apartments were damaged, including 1,421 completely destroyed. The community of Princeville topped the list with 279 homes destroyed. At the time of the hurricane there were 8,200 hotel, condo, and bed and breakfast rooms on Kaua‘i, and ‘Iniki shut down 90% of them. Hurricane ‘Iniki also did major damage to Hanalei Pier, which was rebuilt using concrete. The Princeville Hotel was severely damaged, and required $30 million worth of repairs. The Haraguchi Rice Mill underwent extensive restorations after both Hurricane ‘Iwa in 1982 and Hurricane ‘Iniki in 1992. Hurricane ‘Iniki also caused structural damage to Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church, lifting the building off its foundations and damaging the precious stained glass windows, which were later completely restored. The word tsunami derives from the Japanese “tsu,” meaning harbor, and “nami,” which means wave. Tsunamis are caused by earthquakes, landslides, volcanic eruptions, and potentially (and possibly historically), tsunamis may also be caused by meteor impacts, and have killed more people in the Hawaiian Islands than all other natural disasters combined. Since 1837, there have been at least 13 significant tsunami events affecting the Hawaiian Islands, killing more than 290 people. [Photograph: 1957 tsunami; see relief ship photo.] The two tsunamis that had the most affect on the Hanalei region occurred a decade apart, in 1946 and 1957. The 1946 tsunami, which killed 17 people on Kaua‘i, struck on April 1 and was caused by an earthquake in the Aleutian Islands, 2,400 miles north of the Hawaiian Islands.[dcccxiii] The first of the tsunami waves hit the Hawaiian Islandsaround 6:30 a.m. The 1946 tsunami brought 15 waves in all, rising up to 56 feet above sea level in some places. The water rose to 33 feet above sea level in Hilo where close to 500 homes and businesses were destroyed and more than 1,000 more damaged, causing an estimated $26 million in damage, including railroads, bridges, piers and ships. Ninety-six people in Hilo were killed by the waves. Nearly 500 homes and businesses were destroyed and more than 1,000 more damaged along with railroads, bridges, piers and ships. Total damage was estimated at $26 million. On Kaua‘i, the 1946 tsunami altered the course of the Waipā Stream, requiring an additional span to be added to the bridge. The tsunami also caused the collapse of the east end of the Waikoko Bridge, which was then made passable by piling up rocks atop the fallen structure, a makeshift solution that remains in use today. The 1946 tsunami also washed away the carp stocked in the Lily Pond in Hanalei town. (The 1946 tsunami also killed 120 people on Hawai‘i Island, 13 people on Maui, and 6 people on O‘ahu.) [Photographs: Hanalei Pavilion; Hanalei tsunami damage.] Kaha aku la ka nalu o ku‘u ‘āina. The surf of my land has swept everything away. A retort to one who boasts about the value and beauty of his own land.[dcccxiv] On March 9, 1957, another earthquake in the Aleutian Islands generated a tsunami that destroyed or severely damaged more than 75 homes along Kaua‘i’s north shore, including 25 of the 29 homes in Hā‘ena. Also destroyed was Hā‘ena School. The 1957 tsunami also damaged the Hanalei Bridge, requiring the addition of reinforcements that were added in 1959. Along Weke Road on Hanalei Bay, the 1957 tsunami moved the Sanborn home about ten feet off its foundation but caused only minor structural damage.[dcccxv] The tsunami also damaged the Fayé Beach House, and knocked out the old Kalihiwai Bridge, disrupting the filming of the movie South Pacific.
Princeville In July of 1968, Harry Trueblood of Eagle County Development Corporation (a Denver-based subsidiary of Consolidated Oil and Gas Company) bought all but about 50 acres of the Princeville Ranch from a subsidiary of American Factors Ltd. (Amfac). The sale included 11,000 acres of Princeville land and four agricultural parcels of about 7,000 acres each as well as 4,000 acres designated as forest reserve conservation land.[dcccxvi] Princeville Ranch had just seven employees and two resident workers The new Princeville Ranch owners received approval from the Land Use Commission in 1969 for urban districting on 995 acres, including 532 acres dedicated to housing and hotel development, with the remaining land designated for a 27-hole golf course and open space. The development of Princeville as a major resort area began in 1970 and included digging wells, building roads, and installing underground utilities. In 1971, the Makai Golf Course opened with three, nine-hole courses called Lakes, Woods, and Ocean. The United States Fish & Wildlife Service purchased 905 acres of Princeville’s Hanalei Valley land in 1972, and this land is now part of the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge. The Princeville Center opened in 1977, offering 27,000 square feet (2,508 sq. m) of space for rent. In 1982, Princeville Hotel Corporation was formed with the intent of constructing a major luxury hotel at Pu‘upōā on the east side of Hanalei Bay. The Princeville Corporation (formerly Eagle County Development Corporation) began trading as a public company in 1984, and was listed on the NASDAQ stock exchange. In September of 1985, the Sheraton Princeville Hotel opened, with 300 rooms available for visitors. The development of the Prince Golf Course began in 1986 on the upper eastern side of Princeville above the main resort area. In 1987, the Qintex Group of Queensland, Australia purchased the resort, which was then taken private, and from 1989 to 1991 an extensive refurbishment of the hotel took place. Also built was the 60,000 square-foot Prince Clubhouse adjacent to the Prince Golf Course. The Princeville Hotel was renamed the Sheraton Mirage Princeville, upgraded to a 5-star standard, and reopened on May 15, 1991. In June of 1990, the Princeville Corporation was acquired out of bankruptcy by the Japanese real estate development and sales company Suntory Ltd., also a beverage giant. Suntory became the majority shareholder (51%), while two other Japanese companies, the banking company Nippon Shinpan & Co. Ltd. and the diversified trading company Mitsui & Co. Ltd., became equal shareholders as minority partners. The resort’s name officially became “Princeville Resort,” and the hotel was renamed “Princeville Hotel.” The Princeville Corporation also continued to operate the Prince and Makai golf courses as well as the Princeville Center and the Princeville Health Club and Spa. Since the mid-1980s, the Princeville Hotel has been managed by Starwood Hotels and Resorts.[dcccxvii] The hotel was closed for repairs after being severely damaged by Hurricane ‘Iniki on September 11, 1992. Hurricane ‘Iniki struck Kaua‘i on September 11, 1992, causing more than $3 billion in property damage on Kaua‘i, including damage to more than 70% of the island’s homes, and completely destroying 1,421 homes. The cost of the reconstruction of the hotel after Hurricane ‘Iniki was $30 million[dcccxviii] and the hotel’s 250-person staff returned to work on October 15, 1993. In May of 1995 the Princeville Hotel was designated “Hotel of the Year” by ITT Sheraton.[dcccxix] Today the community of Princeville is Kaua‘i’s largest planned resort community, encompassing 9,000 acres. The resort community includes thousands of condominiums, hundreds of homes, a shopping center, the 252-room Princeville Hotel, and the luxurious Princeville Spa as well as two expansive golf courses rated among the top in the nation. In 2005, the 9,000-acre Princeville Resort was sold for $200 million to: Honolulu-based real estate developer Jeffrey R. Stone; a Honolulu investment consortium known as Hawai‘i Land Development Corporation (now Princeville Associates LLC, a newly formed venture company owned by Stone); and Morgan Stanley Real Estate Funds. The Hanalei Land Development Company was recently a minority investor in the purchase of Honsador Lumber. Jeffrey Stone was previously involved in the purchase of O‘ahu’s Ka Olina Resort in 1998. Morgan Stanley Real Estate Funds is a subsidiary of Morgan Stanley investment and credit service. The sale by Princeville Corporation included the Princeville Hotel along with the resort’s two golf courses, the Princeville Tennis Club and Pro Shop, Princeville Health Club and Spa, the Princeville Shopping Center, and other north shore lands. The future of the Princeville area remains in flux, with plans in the works for new employee housing, renovations to the Princeville Shopping Center, new name-brand hotels, and other new development. Starwood Hotel & Resorts continues to run the Princeville Hotel while also building new timeshare villas in Princeville for Starwood Vacation Ownership. Despite the rapid growth of the Princeville area in recent decades, the region still retains a sense of its pristine beauty, with rolling hills that bridge the valleys of Hanalei and Kalihiwai and form a coastal plateau with expansive ocean and mountain views. Haraguchi Rice Mill The Haraguchi Rice Mill was the last mill to operate in the Hanalei region, and is now the only remaining rice mill still standing in the State of Hawai‘i.[dcccxx] The Haraguchi Rice Mill was originally constructed of wood and corrugated sheet iron. After Hurricane ‘Iwa damaged the structure in 1982, the mill underwent an extensive restoration. Fortunately, just days before the hurricane hit, architectural drawings of the mill were completed by a team of workers with the American Engineering Record, including layout details and exact measurements critical to the authentic mill restoration process. The mill’s machinery was also restored, turning the mill into a historic museum now available for educational tours. Concrete cinder blocks were installed for the rice mill’s 79-foot by 40-foot foundation, and an Oregon mill retooled their machinery to provide the unsanded, original size lumber. Mill equipment was slowly and sometimes creatively restored. A bushing from the main shaft of the mill engine had been used as a counterweight on a tractor, and was lost in the fields. Undeterred, the Haraguchis used a metal detector to find the lost bushing. In 1992, Hurricane ‘Iniki dealt another blow to the Haraguchi Rice Mill, doing extensive damage to the structure and requiring another restoration effort. (Hurricane ‘Iniki also damaged more than 70% of the Kaua‘i’s homes, and completely destroyed 1,421 homes.) Boone Morrison, an architect and photographer from Hawai‘i Island, referred to the original drawings of the Haraguchi Rice Mill to create a professional blueprint. Included in the restoration was the original Fairbanks-Morse, single cylinder, diesel engine. Leading the restoration project were Rodney and Karol Haraguchi. Rodney is the son of William Haraguchi and the great grandson Tomijiro and Ine Haraguchi, the farm’s initial founders (see Part 4). The family tradition continues today with Rodney and Karol Haraguchi farming about 50 acres (20 ha) of taro along with the help of their extended family. In April of 2004, volunteers erected an 18-foot (5 m) tall yagura (rice-bird sentry tower) near the Haraguchi Rice Mill. The yagura was constructed as part of a timber-framing workshop and community service project sponsored by the Fox Maple School of Traditional Building. The towers were once common on local rice fields, and children were often given the job of pulling on a cord attached to tin cans to scare the rice birds away from the fields. During the 2004 yagura project, hand tools and joinery techniques were utilized and no nails or glue were used. Also working on the yagura-building project were Tom Haraguchi, who had stood sentry in a yagura during his youth, and Rodney’s father, William Haraguchi, who ran the farm for many years and continues to help today. HanaleiRiverand Bay For many centuries before Western contact, the Hanalei River irrigated the taro fields of Hanalei Valley. During the last two centuries the river waters have irrigated various other crops grown in Hanalei, including fields of coffee, sugarcane, rice, and many other products. Today the Hanalei River again provides water to the thirsty taro. The river also provides an important community recreational resource enjoyed by kayakers, canoe paddlers, and others. Many local residents enjoy fishing from the riverbanks, and local fishermen launch their boats from the Hanalei rivermouth. Families from all around Kaua‘i gather at Black Pot Beach Park next to Hanalei Pier, a popular spot for picnics, barbecues, and other gatherings of ‘ohana (extended family and friends). [Photograph: Hanalei River] “To the planters in the valley this river is of incalculable value. By ordinary-sized sail-boats it is navigable for three miles above its mouth, and is from one to two hundred feet wide. By means of boats they can send their produce down to any vessel that may be anchored in the harbor awaiting its reception.” Bates, 1854[dcccxxi] Hanalei Bay is an important natural habitat for many native species, including honu (sea turtles), nai‘a (spinner dolphins), and dozens of species of reef fish. Koholā (humpback whales) also occasionally venture into Hanalei Bay, as do various species of manō (sharks), particularly when large fishing nets are set out in the bay by fishing boats. Numerous sightings of large tiger sharks have occurred in the waters of Hanalei Bay, and a 14-foot- (4.3-m-) long tiger shark was caught in 2003 not far from Hanalei Pier shortly after 13-year-old Bethany Hamilton was attacked at the nearby beach called Makua (Tunnels). Bethany’s subsequent national surfing championship and unfailing positive attitude in the face of trying circumstances have now inspired people all around the world. Today at least three canoe clubs—Hanalei, Nāmolokama, and Kaiola—practice their paddling skills in the waters of Hanalei Bay. The Hanalei Canoe Club was established in 1973 as an extension of the Hanalei Hawaiian Civic Club. The State Championship Regatta was held in Hanalei Bay that same year, and Hanalei took first place. The Canoe Club continues to thrive as an important cultural and community group that trains all age levels in the sport of outrigger canoe paddling while also emphasizing Hawaiian cultural knowledge, including the Hawaiian language. Also plying the waters of Hanalei Bay are various other vessels large and small, including sailboats, one-man canoes, sailing canoes, voyaging canoes, kayaks, fishing boats, and assorted personal watercraft. Dozens of large and small sailboats anchor in Hanalei Bay during the summer months when the water is generally calm. Many of these sailboats spend the summer in the bay before continuing their journeys across the Pacific and beyond. Hanalei Bay is also the destination site of the annual Singlehanded TransPacific Yacht Race (TransPac). The first TransPac took place in 1978 when 33 boats sailed from the Golden Gate Bridge toward Hanalei Bay, and twenty-two boats finished the 2,120-mile course. The winner took 13 days, 2 hours, and 34 minutes (corrected 9:17:18) Peter Hogg set the record when he sailed to Hanalei in just 8 days, 20 hours, and 16 minutes.[dcccxxii] [Photograph: Hanalei Bay sailboats, Transpac] “At the present season the anchorage [Hanalei] is safe, but when the N.W. gales blow, a very heavy sea must tumble into the bay. I am informed that a Russian store-ship rode out the season in spite of everything. The anchorage is pretty well covered by a spit, over which there is about nine feet; but there is not sufficient space in bad weather for more than three vessels, although in the present fine season the bay is spacious.” Captain Edward Belcher of the Sulphur, 1837[dcccxxiii] The Hanalei River Hui On July 30, 1998, the Hanalei River was designated as an American Heritage River by President Bill Clinton, and the Hanalei River Hui was established as part of the American Heritage River program. The Hanalei River was one of just 14 rivers nationwide to receive the American Heritage River designation, and the only tropical waterway to receive the designation. The River Hui is primarily concerned with the 16-mile (4.9-m) length of the Hanalei River, the 21-square-mile (54 sq.km.) watershed of Hanalei Valley, and the offshore coral reefs in Hanalei Bay. [River length and watershed area statistics from: Calhoun, R. Scott, and Fletcher, Charles H. Measured and predicted sediment yield from a subtropical, heavy rainfall, steep-sided river basin: Hanalei, Kauai, Hawaiian Islands. Geomorphology 30 (1999) 213-226.] Also important to the Hui are the three neighboring valleys—Wai‘oli, Waipā, and Waikoko—which all have streams that flow into Hanalei Bay. According to their mission statement, the Hanalei River Hui “strives to mālama the ahupua‘a (watershed) of Hanalei guided by the Hawaiian principles of mālama ‘āina (sustainability and stewardship), pono (integrity and balance), laulima (cooperation), and aloha, especially as it applies to cultural equity and respect.”[dcccxxiv] Hui members gather data on native species and also work with local school children on outdoor educational activities. The Hui’s scientific endeavors include an ongoing water quality assessment project that involves collecting water samples from various sites in Hanalei Bay and Hanalei River. Water tests conducted by the River Hui in Hanalei Bay have frequently shown high bacterial counts, and so the Hui continues to work on long term solutions to the contamination problem. A first step is identifying major pollution sources, including nearby cesspools that pollute the water, particularly during heavy rains. The River Hui also monitors newly hatched larvae of the native ‘o‘opu fish (Gobiidae; Eleotridae, native gobies). The main difference between the ‘o‘opu families of Gobiidae and Eleotridae is that the pelvic fins of Eleotridae are not fused. Five ‘o‘opu species inhabit Kaua‘i’s north shore streams and rivers: ‘o‘opu nōpili (Sicyopterus stimpsoni); ‘o‘opu nākea (Awaous guamensis); ‘o‘opu naniha (Stenogobius hawaiiensis); ‘o‘opu ‘akupa (Eleotris sandwicensis); ‘o‘opu ‘alamo‘o (Lentipes concolor). ‘O‘opu are born as larvae in freshwater streams and then washed down into the ocean where they develop into mature fish. They eventually return to the stream where they were born and then swim upstream, climbing rocks and waterfalls to reach the upper levels. ‘O‘opu accomplish these remarkable climbing feats by using their specially adapted pelvic fins, which are fused to form a sucking disc. At the conclusion of their upriver journey the ‘o‘opu lay their eggs and complete their life cycle. Frank Kurihara, who grew up in Hanalei in the early 1900s, considered ‘o‘opu “delicious eating, fried or lawalu’d with ti leaves, or in soups, or dried.”[dcccxxv] Local residents anticipated catching the ‘o‘opu that came downriver during the first floods of August, when fish “migrated downstream by the hordes.”[dcccxxvi] ‘O‘opu nākea are the largest of the gobies, at up to 14 inches long, and were once abundant in the Hanalei River. In recent years the ‘o‘opu nākea populations have severely declined. [Photograph: ‘O‘opu nākea] Ka i‘a a ka wai nui i lawe mai ai. The fish borne along by the flood. The ‘o‘pu, which was often carried to the lowlands in freshets.[dcccxxvii] [Photograph: Hanalei Bay and Rivermouth] [Photo Caption:] “The ocean and rivers were just teeming with fish, and it was no problem to catch enough for the family’s needs.” Frank Kurihara[dcccxxviii] [Photograph: Hanalei River Hui doing research] [Photo Caption:] On May 6, 2003, the Hanalei Heritage River Program received a $700,000 grant from the Environmental Protection Agency for the protection of the Hanalei ahupua‘a watershed.[dcccxxix] [Sidebar:] [Photograph: Hanalei rivermouth] [Photo Caption:] Kauahoa—The Handsome Hero of Hanalei A famous and proud warrior of Hanalei in ancient times, according to legend, was Kauahoa. His name means “The friendly rain,” and he was known as Ka me‘e u‘i o Hanalei (“The handsome hero of Hanalei”). Kauahoa blocked the headwaters of the Hanalei River because he was angry that the chief ‘Aikanaka did not utilize his fighting skills. When Kauahoa was finally called to battle he pulled up a large koa tree to use as a war club, and as he held the club aloft there were still birds singing in the tree’s branches. Hanalei Today—The Waipā Foundation The lands of Waipā were slated for development in the 1970s, but this was forestalled when local farmers and fishermen began an organized effort to preserve the ahupua‘a (watershed), and petitioned the landowner, Kamehameha Schools, for a lease to the valley. Kamehameha Schools has vast land holdings and investments worth more than six billion dollars. The families of David Kawika Sproat, Samson Mahu‘iki, and others organized the Hawaiian Farmers of Hanalei, which began to restore the valley for traditional community use.[dcccxxx] In 1994, David Sproat’s daughter, Stacy Sproat-Beck developed a Land Use Masterplan for Waipā and formed the nonprofit (501c3) Waipā Foundation.[dcccxxxi] Today the ongoing activities at the ahupua‘a of Waipā now help to sustain the community economically and provide a living classroom for local children who learn first hand by studying the natural ecosystems. Students investigate the geology of the surrounding mountains and the hydrological cycles of the streams and natural springs. They also learn about the native plants and animals, from the birds in the Waipa mountain forests to the marine life inhabiting the coral reefs offshore in Hanalei Bay. Students count native fish, conduct tests on water quality, participate in professionally guided archaeological excavations, and map the cultural and natural resources of the Waipā ahupua‘a (watershed). Other ongoing activities at Waipā include a fishtank aquaculture project as well as a large, organic vegetable/herb garden tended by volunteers who share in the harvest.[dcccxxxii] Native plants are propagated, and a nursery is used to grow tropical flowers. Waipā’s thatched hālau (canoe house) along the sandy shoreline of Hanalei Bay allows students to practice outrigger canoe paddling as well as canoe surfing on the formidable ocean waves. On the coastal area of Waipā, trained facilitators lead participants through a Ropes Challenge Course designed to build inner strength and trust through teamwork. Teachers and mentors at Waipā include native Hawaiian kūpuna (elders). An integral part of Waipā’s program involves the farming of taro, which is milled into poi each week and then provided to community members at a low cost.
Hanalei Today—Shipwrecks In 1995, the Smithsonian Institution’s Dr. Paul Forsythe Johnston used remote sensing equipment to discover the buried location of the sunken wreck of Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i (Prince of Hawai‘i), formerly known as Cleopatra’s Barge. The ship, which sank in Hanalei Bay in 1824 (see Part 2), had remained largely untouched until Johnston began his efforts to recover artifacts from the wreck. Johnston had earlier worked as a curator at a maritime museum in Salem, Massachusetts where Cleopatra’s Barge had been constructed in 1816. The research vessel used for the salvage project was the Pilialoha (Circle of Friends), which was captained by Rick Rogers. In July of 1995, the crew sailed to Hanalei Bay from Hale‘iwa Harbor, O‘ahu to begin the salvage work. The initial search for the sunken ship utilized old charts as well as various modern search techniques, including satellite navigation. A proton precession magnetometer was used to locate the wreck by detecting tiny fluctuations in Earth’s magnetic field. The ship was found about ten feet beneath the sand at the mouth of the Wai‘oli River, which flows into the ocean about midway along the sandy crescent of Hanalei Bay. An L-shaped propwash-deflector was used to direct pressure from the Pilialoha’s prop down onto the seafloor in order to move sand and uncover artifacts from the wreck. Recovered items included a calabash gourd, quartered whale’s tooth, gold-laced beads, and an ivory ring. Many recovered items may have been part of King Kamehameha II’s wardrobe. Though the king wasn’t on board during the voyage to Kaua‘i, many of his belongings were on the ship when it sank. Chinese artifacts recovered from the wreck of Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i included ceramics and tableware. Some fine cabinet glass that was recovered may have come from France. Copper hull sheathing came from England, and still bore the manufacturer’s mark, “W&G/G24.” Also possibly from England was a black glass liquor bottle. Many American-made artifacts were also found, including a leather holster, a block and tackle (with rope), and musket balls. Other artifacts recovered from the wreck included bronze spikes, pieces of porcelain, pearlware, glass, bone, iron, ivory, lead pipe (probably from the ship’s plumbing) and a wooden wheel. A folding knife and a two-pronged fork were found, along with various stone artifacts including ballast stones, stone lamps (used to burn kukui nut oil), stone poi pounders, stone anchors, cooking stones, and a cow’s tibia bone that had been worked into an awl or meat pick. A pū (triton conch sell) found in the wreckage was likely used as the ship’s horn. During the last days of the 1996 recovery work, large sections of the ship’s hull were discovered, but they were left in place due to time constraints. [Photograph: Hanalei Bay wreck site] Another recent shipwreck discovery was the 155-foot, U.S. Navy ship Saginaw, whose crew members fashioned a rescue vessel from the wreck and sent five men sailing for help. They ended up off Hanalei, though only one survived. Marine archaeologists diving in a reef channel at Kure Atoll, about 1,000 mile northwest of Kaua‘i, discovered the site of the wreck of the Saginaw in August of 2003. The ship had wrecked on the reef 133 years earlier. The divers found a series of metal artifacts including large iron anchors and heavily encrusted cannons. TheSaginaw was the only known wreck at Kure to have cannons on board, which helped in the identification of the sunken ship. The divers found copper drift pins that once held the Saginaw’s timbers together, and bronze gudgeons that had attached the ship’s rudder to the stern. The 22-foot captain’s boat that the five men used to get help now is on display at Castle Museum in Saginaw, Michigan. It was this vessel that foundered off Hanalei Bay with the exhausted crew, eventually drifting as far as Kalihiwai before a lone survivor was able to relate the tragic story of the Saginaw to authorities, who then sent help to Kure to rescue the stranded crew (see Part 3). Hanalei Today—The Return of Taro After the decline of the rice industry throughout the Hawaiian Islands in the early 1900s, significant taro farming eventually began again in Hanalei when it was initiated by Masato Yokotake in the 1940s and then Mr. Tasaka and Mr. Morishige and others, primarily planting the lehua maoli variety of taro brought from Waimea.[dcccxxxiii] In 1940 in upper Hanalei Valley taro terraces were irrigated by a half-mile-long ditch bringing water “through a big rock which is conveniently cracked,” observed Handy, adding, “the legend runs that Pele sent lightning to split the rock so that the people could get the water down to the fields.”[dcccxxxiv] Walter Foss Sanborn successfully grew taro in 1940 in an area of lower, eastern Hanalei Valley that had been planted in rice for the previous three decades.[dcccxxxv] With the return of substantial taro farming in Hanalei Valley, there was also a need for mills to make the taro corms into poi. As the rice mills of the region closed, poi mills began to appear at residents’ homes, including the Makas in Hā‘ena as well as the Alohiaus and Lotas in Hanalei. Walter Foss Sanborn had a poi mill in Hanalei across the street from his home on Weke Road.[dcccxxxvi] By the 1880s several changes of ownership of the poi mill occurred, and poi from the Hanalei region was being shipped as far as Hanapēpē. Census information from the Department of Commerce states that about 116 acres of taro were farmed in Hanalei in 1949. In 1997, about 220 acres of taro were farmed in Hanalei, including eight farms on 125 acres within the boundaries of the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge. Also documented were 50 acres of taro in Wai‘oli Valley, 10 to 15 acres in Waipā Valley, and 5 to 10 acres in Waikoko Valley.[dcccxxxvii] Taro production in the Islands totaled about six million pounds in 1998, and since that time taro acreage has declined. From 2000 to 2005, and taro production decreased from about 5 million to about 3 million pounds, and the number of taro farmers decreased from 70 to about 50. In 2002, about 5.7 million pounds of Hawaiian taro were milled into poi, a six percent decrease in production from the previous year. Recent declines in taro and poi production are attributed to pests, diseases, and bad weather, including record rains in 2006 that caused flooding and significant damage to taro crops.[dcccxxxviii] Kaua‘i currently provides more than 70% of all taro grown in the State of Hawai‘i. More than half of the island’s taro is grown in Hanalei Valley. Taro’s large, heart-shaped lū‘au (leaves) create a scenic patchwork of green fields covering the Hanalei Valley floor. [Photograph: Hanalei Valley taro] Hanalei Today—Connections to Ancient Times Today in Hanalei an ancient sense of place remains. The richness of the history and culture is perpetuated in many ways, and memories of ancient days still echo in the sounds of the rushing streams, reverberate in the crashing of the ocean waves, and arc overhead in rainbows of color that appear and disappear with each passing rainshower. Many descendants of the original settlers still live in the Hanalei region, and these native Hawaiians are the living links to Hanalei’s ancient days, their genealogies reaching back through time to the first inhabitants who arrived thousands of years ago. In recent decades among the native Hawaiian people there has been a resurgence in the use of the spoken and written Hawaiian language as well as a renewal of traditional Hawaiian cultural practices. Native groups and others are working to restore and preserve native cultural sites, including heiau (sacred places of worship), loko ‘ia (fishponds), and whole ahupua‘a, the traditional Hawaiian watersheds that supply all the needs of the community. The Hōkūle‘a voyaging canoe, a symbol of the revival of Hawaiian traditions, has sailed into Hanalei Bay numerous times since it was launched in 1975, including extended visits in June/July of 2005 accompanied by the voyaging canoe Makali‘i. From Hanalei Bay the two voyaging canoes sailed to the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands and then returned to Hanalei to offer educational opportunities for local youth. Visits to Hanalei by traditional Hawaiian voyaging canoes and their crews have given further inspiration to the perpetuation of local Hawaiian culture in the region, and many advocate the restoration of an independent nation or some other formal arrangement to redress past infringements on native rights. Many local residents are concerned about the rapidly increasing development of north shore lands and the consequent loss of public access to beaches and mountain areas. Protecting the region’s unique beauty and cultural significance has often proved difficult in the face of powerful commercial interests, yet alliances between environmentalists, preservationists, philanthropists, and native groups have led to better planning for future growth. The record surge in real estate values throughout the Islands has led to a rapid increase in the number of vacation rentals on the north shore and across Kaua‘i, and consequently a shortage of long term rentals for local residents. Homes purchased for inflated prices often require huge mortgage payments, drawing many homeowners to the lucrative vacation rental market. Homeowners have seen huge property tax increases due to rising property values, and this has forced some residents on fixed incomes to sell their homes. Another difficulty facing the Hanalei region today comes from invasive, non-native plant and animal species that imperil native ecosystems. Many native species have become endangered and extinct since Western contact in 1778, including the extinction of more than half of all native bird species in the Hawaiian Islands. Local conservation efforts have done much to protect threatened and endangered populations of nēnē (Hawaiian goose), mōlī (albatross), ‘a‘o and ‘ua‘u kani (Newell’s and wedge-tailed shearwaters), ‘ilio-holo-i-ka-uaua (monk seals), and many other native species. The Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge remains a stronghold of several endangered native waterbirds, including theae‘o (Hawaiian black-necked stilt), ‘alae ke‘oke (Hawaiian coot), koloa maoli (Hawaiian duck), and ‘alae ‘ula (Hawaiian moorhen). The native Hawaiian population of the Hanalei region is strong and continues to educate the next generation about the Hawaiian culture. The Hanalei Canoe Club, for example, emphasizes the study of the Hawaiian language along with their rigorous ocean training. The Waipā Foundation’s restoration of the Waipā ahupua‘a for use as a living classroom has also helped efforts to carry on the traditional practices of ancient times. Hanalei Today—Hanalei Bridge The Hanalei Bridge is considered the “gateway to Hanalei” and is the first of Route 560’s seven bridges that accommodate just one direction of traffic at a time. A plan to replace Hanalei Bridge with a more modern, two-lane, concrete structure was proposed by the Department of Transportation in 1974. Community input encouraged preservation, and a grassroots movement to save the historic Hanalei Bridge led to a commitment to restore the existing structure rather than replace it.[dcccxxxix] The cost of repairing and restoring Hanalei Bridge was $442,000 and increased the bridge’s load limit. Work included truss reinforcements, replacing decking and timber stringers, prestressing of the floor beams, and painting the bridge.[dcccxl] On May 24, 1989, a dedication ceremony was held to celebrate the completion of the bridge work. In 1999, bridge inspections identified the need for more repairs, and it was determined that the original Pratt trusses had to be removed or replaced. Also needing repairs were the Warren trusses, which had been added in 1967 and supported most of the weight going over the bridge. Repair and restoration work on Hanalei Bridge took place in 2002-2003 after a national travel magazine had rated the bridge as one of the United States’ most dangerous. The repair work attempted to replicate the bridge’s original truss structure. A blessing for the restored Hanalei Bridge was attended by United States Senator Daniel Inouye as well as members of the Hanalei Roads Committee who had worked for many years to preserve the historic character of the bridge.[dcccxli] The Boating Controversy In the 1970s, a tour-boat industry emerged on Kaua‘i’s north shore to provide access to the Nāpali Coast, whichspans for about 15 miles of rugged shoreline between the beaches of Kē‘ē on the northwest side of Kaua‘i and Polihale on the southwest side. The Nāpali is truly one of Earth’s natural wonders, with cliffs rising up steeply for thousands of feet into pointed spires and sharp ridges where volcanic pinnacles stand sentinel over deep, ancient valleys. Tour companies initially launched their boats primarily from Hanalei Bay and nearby Hā‘ena at Makua (Tunnels) Beach. Many companies used the protected waters of the large Hanalei rivermouth to service their boats and to load and unload passengers. The number of tour boats serving the north shore grew quickly, and by the mid-1980s tour boat owners were increasingly at odds with government agencies and local groups concerned about increases in traffic at beach parks, unenforced permitting regulations, and negative environmental impacts to Hanalei Bay and Hanalei River. Ambiguity regarding rules, jurisdictions, and permits resulted in numerous lawsuits in the late 1980s. A 1989 ruling by a Third Circuit Judge prohibited tour boat activity at the Hanalei rivermouth until county permits were acquired by business owners. Unpermitted tours continued to operate from Hanalei, however, and some boat crews were confronted by protesters who claimed that the commercial boating activities were illegal. Despite the controversy, the number of daily boat tours and charters continued to increase, and included fishing boats, sailboats, kayaks, catamarans, motorized rubber rafts, and various other vessels that primarily provided tourists with access to the Nāpali Coast. The legality of boating industry activities was bitterly contested and increasingly contentious, and attempts at mediation by then-Mayor JoAnn Yukimura were unsuccessful. In July of 1991 the Department of Transportation began to enforce the rules against unpermitted boating activities. Eight days later the enforcement was halted, and the citations that had previously been issued were later withdrawn. A series of community meetings orchestrated by Mayor Yukimura resulted in the Hanalei Estuary Management Plan, adopted on September 10, 1992 on the evening before Hurricane ‘Iniki. Seven commercial boating permits were issued in June of 1993, and the state later issued more than 100 citations for unpermitted activity, but these too were later withdrawn. Then a new mayor, Maryanne Kusaka, then took office and asked the state to withhold enforcement. During the election season of 1998, Governor Benjamin Cayetano ordered all boat companies to stop running tours from Hanalei Bay, and instead move to official Kaua‘i harbors. In September of 1999, the DLNR attempted to stop the final two motorized boat companies from running tours from Hanalei by refusing to reissue state permits, and in response the companies sued the State of Hawai‘i. In January of 2000 a Circuit Judge ruled against the DLNR for not following proper procedures, and allowed the two companies to continue their operations. The DLNR immediately began a new process aimed at banning motorized commercial tour boats from the Hanalei Bay. In May of 2000, the DLNR issued new rules allowing two kayaking companies to operate, but the two remaining powerboat companies and three remaining sailboat companies were facing an imminent demise. In 2002, the last companies to hold county permits for boat tours from Hanalei went to federal court seeking to block the state’s attempt to evict them from Hanalei. A U.S. District Judge agreed with the boat companies, ruling that “Hanalei Bay and parts of Hanalei River are federal navigable waterways and that the state can’t ban commercial boat traffic there.”[dcccxlii] This effectively reversed the earlier proclamation of Governor Cayetano that had brought an abrupt halt to commercial boating from Hanalei in 1998. Tour boats have largely disappeared from Hanalei waters, yet the future of the industry on Kaua‘i’s north shore remains uncertain. [Illustration: Surfboards] [Sidebar:] Surfing in Ancient Times Hawaiians have surfed the ocean waves for many hundreds of years. They carved petroglyphs of surfers into lava rocks, and told stories of surfing in ancient Hawaiian chants. Papa he‘e nalu (surfboards) were up to 16 feet long and weighing as much as 175 pounds. A stone or bone adze was used to carve the surfboard from the buoyant wood of wiliwili, koa, or ‘ulu (breadfruit) trees,[dcccxliii] and then ‘ōahi (rough stone) or pōhaku puna (granulated coral) was used to put a smooth finish on the board. Root of kī (ti), pounded bark of kukui, or stain from the buds of mai‘a (banana) was used for a final coat, and a dark stain color was also achieved by rubbing the soot from burned kukui nuts into the wood. Oil of kukui nuts gave the surfboard a glossy finish. The surfboard was dedicated before taking it in the ocean, and then after each surf session the board was treated with oil of niu (coconut). When the surfboard was not being used it was wrapped in kapa barkcloth. Today many well-known surfboard shapers live in the Hanalei area, including Bobby Allen (BASA), Billy Hamilton (Hamilton Surfboards), Mark Sausen (Papa Sau Surfboards), Dick Brewer (Brewer Surfboards), Terry Chung (Terry Chung Surfboards), and Ian Vernon (Sunburnt Surfboards). Modern surfboard makers primarily shape foam “blanks” into finished boards that are “glassed” (coated with a liquid resin that hardens). In the last few years factory-produced surfboards made from epoxy have become increasingly popular. [Photograph: Traditional Hawaiian surfboard] Hanalei Today—Surfing Hawai‘i is a mecca for surfers who come from all over the world to test themselves on the large and challenging waves. Every winter a series of huge storm systems are generated off of the Asian landmass, grow over the Bering Sea, and generate enormous swells that propel large ocean waves steadily toward Hawai‘i’s northern shores. If an experienced local surfer says he surfed Hanalei or The Bay it usually refers to the “point break” directly out from Hanalei Pier. There on the east side of the bay a fringing coral reef provides optimal conditions for well-formed breaking waves. Along the length of Hanalei Bay are about a dozen other surf spots—Kiddies (near Hanalei Pier), then Pavilions, the Cape, Pine Trees, Grandpas, Middles, Chicken Wing, Waipā, and finally Waikokos at the far western side of the bay. Far offshore on the western side of Hanalei Bay is Queens reef, while far offshore on the eastern side of the bay isKings. Both Kings and Queens only have breaking waves when extremely large swells arrive from the north, and this usually only occurs just a few times a year or less. The giant winter waves at the point breaks and outer reefs on Kaua‘i’s north shore are the stuff of legends. The mountainous waves arriving at Kings and Queens more than a mile offshore in Hanalei Bay rival any surf spot in the world. Kings Reef is traditionally known as Ali‘i Reef, and was first surfed on November 10, 1996 by Titus Kinimaka and Terry Chung, two of Kaua‘i’s renowned local watermen who used a jet ski to tow each other into the massive waves. Chung had previously scuba dived the coral and rock reef at Kings, noting that it was about 50 to 70 feet deep with a rock shelf dropping off to about 120 feet.[dcccxliv] The accomplishment of Kinimaka and Chung surfing Kings occurred early in the evolution of the sport of tow-in surfing (using powered craft to pull a surfer into a giant wave). In recent years many technological improvements have been made to tow-in surfboards and other equipment used to surf giant ocean waves. Daring surfers will continue to explore Kaua‘i’s outer reefs during the biggest of winter swells. The sport of surfing has exploded in popularity during the last decade. Some new water sports have also become increasingly popular, including kite surfing (in which the surfer is pulled by a large parachute-like kite) as well as tow-in surfing. Also still popular is the more traditional sport of windsurfing, using a sail attached to the board to provide speed. [Photograph: Surfing in Hanalei] [Photo caption:] The Hawaiian term for surfing is he‘e nalu, which literally means “to ride the waves”. A Pod of Whales in Hanalei Bay On July 3, 2004, four Kaua‘i Police Department officers and local water safety officers were called to Hanalei Bay to keep beach-goers away from 150-200 melon headed whales congregating near the shoreline. Melon headed whales are a relatively small and slender species with a melon-shaped head. They are deep water whales, usually staying at least 20 miles offshore in pods that range in size from about 100 to 500 members. Bluish-black to dark grey or brown in color, the whales have a white patch on their belly and white lips. Adults reach about nine feet long and weigh up to 600 pounds, feeding on squid, shrimp, and fish. The pod of melon headed whales first came into Hanalei Bay about 7 a.m. near Pine Trees beach, where they swam in a dense cluster very close to shore. Occasionally the whales broke into several pods and then slowly rejoined as they all moved slowly eastward along the shore, eventually congregating near Pavilions beach. [Photograph: Melon headed whales] The next day, the 4th of July, the whale pod remained very near the Hanalei Bay shoreline as marine officials devised a plan to use a string of connected kayaks to nudge the cetaceans out of the bay. The kayaks were hooked together on the beach, but just before this plan was put into action by the NOAA officials, a group of local Hawaiian members of the Hanalei Canoe Club suggested a less cumbersome and more natural method of solving the problem. The plan of the Canoe Club members was to use a long woven strand of pōhuehue (beach morning glory vine) to gently shepherd the whales from the bay. This hardy vine grows plentifully along the Hanalei Bay shoreline at the high water mark, and was thought to be a safer and less intrusive method than using kayaks to move the pod out to sea. The vines would also be harmless if run into by the dolphins. When the woven strand of pōhuehue was completed it was about 600 feet long, and canoe club members used two small boats to lay the strand across the water near the whales and then very slowly pull the two ends of the strand seaward to gently nudge the whales out to sea. Within about an hour the whales had moved into deeper waters, and then they suddenly headed for the open sea. The whale pod had been eerily inactive during the previous day near the shore of Hanalei Bay, but as the whales disappeared toward the horizon many were leaping above the water as if to celebrate their regained freedom. It seemed to be a storybook ending to the near mass stranding. Sadly, the next day one infant melon headed calf about three feet long was found dead in Hanalei Bay near Waipā Stream. The precise cause of the unusual appearance of the melon headed whales in Hanalei Bay is uncertain, however many attribute the event to the Navy’s testing of mid-frequency, active sonar as part of the RIMPAC (Rim of the Pacific) military exercises that take place in Hawaiian waters every two years and involve many different countries. The 2004 RIMPAC exercises involved eight countries, including about 18,000 troops, 100 aircraft, more than 40 ships and seven submarines. The military exercises have been held in Hawaiian waters 19 times since 1968. A goal of the 2004 sonar tests during the RIMPAC exercises was to refine the military’s ability to utilize high-volume sounds to locate submarines. The sonar tests involved a ship tracking an underwater torpedo that produced sonar readings similar to a submarine. Military ships were operating sonar periodically during the 20 hours before the whales entered Hanalei Bay, and two of the U.S. Navy ships and four Japanese ships were located 19 miles off Kaua‘i’s north shore when the whales showed up in Hanalei Bay. Two of the military ships reported using their sonar between 6:45 and 7:10 a.m., and the whales in Hanalei Bay were first reported around 7:00 a.m. The Navy was quickly informed of the strange appearance of the whale pod in Hanalei Bay, and within hours their active sonar operations were temporarily suspended as a precaution to protect the marine mammals. In April of 2006, National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) scientists concluded that the sonar may have been a contributing cause of the whales congregating in Hanalei Bay. The results of the investigation led to official requests by NOAA for the Navy to adjust their methods in experimenting with the sonar equipment in future RIMPAC exercises. [Sidebar:] Puff the Magic Dragon “Puff, the magic dragon,” according to the song’s lyrics, “lived by the sea and frolicked in the autumn mist in a land called Honah Lee,” leading some people to think the song refers to Hanalei. Indeed the mountains around Hanalei Bay are shaped in such a way that it is not at all difficult to envision the shape of a dragon wrapped around the coastline, its head laid down at the west end of the bay. Written by band member Peter Yarrow and his Cornell classmate Leonard Lipton, the song was originally performed by the 1960s musical group Peter, Paul & Mary. Yarrow dispelled the notion of a Hanalei connection, saying it was “serendipitous coincidence.” The song was instead based on a poem about a dragon written by Ogden Nash.[dcccxlv] [Photograph: View of mountains on west side of bay (dragon shape).] [Sidebar:] The Tahiti Nui Bruce Truesdale Marston came from Pasadena, California and met his wife Louise in Tahiti. They built a house at ‘Anini because it reminded them of Tahiti, and in the summer of 1964 they opened Tahiti Nui in Hanalei. Tahiti Nui became known as the north shore’s best-known gathering place, hosting visiting celebrities and featuring local singers, musicians, hula dancing, and the beautiful singing of “Aunty Louise” herself, who was for decades considered the best known woman on Kaua‘i’s north shore. [Photograph: Louise Marston (1928-2003).]
Birds of Hanalei Native Waterbirds****[dcccxlvi]**** ØAe‘o—Hawaiian Black-Necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus knudseni Ø‘Alae Ke‘oke—Hawaiian Coot Fulica americana alai ØKoloa Maoli—Hawaiian Duck Anas wyvilliana Ø‘Alae ‘Ula—Hawaiian Moorhen Gallinula chloropus sandvicensis Ø‘Auku‘u—Black-Crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax hoactli Open Country Birds ØNēnē—Hawaiian Goose Branta sandvicensis Migratory Species—Seasonal Residents and Occasional Visitors ØKōlea—Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva ØMōlī—Laysan Albatross Diomedea immutabilis ØKoloa Mohā—Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata ØKoloa Māpu—Northern Pintail Anas acuta ØHunakai—Sanderling Calidris alba ØGreen-Winged Teal Anas crecca ØBlue-Winged Teal Anas discors ØBufflehead Bucephala albeola ØBaikal Teal Anas formosa ØWhite-Faced Ibis Plegadis chihi Seabirds**__[dcccxlvii]__** Ø‘Iwa—Great Frigatebird Fregata minor palmerstoni Ø‘A‘o—Newell’s (Townsend’s) Shearwater Puffinus auricularis newelli Ø‘Ua‘u Kani—Wedge-Tailed Shearwater Puffinus pacificus chlororhynchus ØKoa‘e Kea—White-Tailed Tropicbird Phaethon lepturus dorotheae ØKoa‘e ‘Ula—Red-Tailed Tropicbird Phaethon rubricauda rothschildi
Native Waterbirds****[dcccxlviii]**** ØAe‘o—Hawaiian Black-Necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus knudseni Ø‘Alae Ke‘oke—Hawaiian Coot Fulica americana alai ØKoloa Maoli—Hawaiian Duck Anas wyvilliana Ø‘Alae ‘Ula—Hawaiian Moorhen Gallinula chloropus sandvicensis Ø‘Auku‘u—Black-Crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax hoactli [Photograph: Hawaiian Black-Necked Stilt] [Photograph Caption:] Hawaiian Black-Necked Stilt (Himantopus mexicanus knudseni) Hawaiian Name: Ae‘o (“One standing tall”) Endemic Subspecies. Status: Endangered Species. Found on Hawai‘i, Maui, Lāna‘i, Moloka‘i, O‘ahu, Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau. Ae‘o—Hawaiian Black-Necked Stilt Often seen in the taro patches of Hanalei Valley, the Hawaiian Black-necked stilt is perfectly suited to a wetland environment. The stilt is a wading bird easily identified by its black and white forehead, white breast, and long, skinny pink legs that are jointed and bend in the opposite direction of the human leg. Hawai‘i’s Black-necked stilts (ae‘o) constitute a subspecies of the Black-necked stilts found in North and South America, which have less black on their neck and face, and a shorter bill and tail. North American stilts are found as far south as Brazil and also in the Galapagos Islands. The biggest populations of Hawaiian stilts are on Maui, Kaua‘i and O‘ahu, numbering about 1,600 in all. Stilts are found on O‘ahu, Hawai‘i Island, Maui, Lāna‘i, Moloka‘i, Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau. In the Hawaiian Islands, stilts were once hunted as game birds. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service listed the Hawaiian subspecies as endangered on October 13, 1970. Hawaiian stilts are also known as kukuluae‘o, a Hawaiian term that also refers to wooden stilts used for amusement by Hawaiian children in ancient times. He kukuluāe‘o. A stilt. A thin, long-legged person.[dcccxlix] Hawaiian Black-necked stilts are wading birds that often gather in groups. They make a chirping sound similar to“kip kip” or “keek, keek” and use their long beaks to probe the shallow water mud flats for worms, aquatic insects, crabs, fish, and mollusks. Stilt breeding and nesting season extends from December to August, but mainly from March to August. The stilt builds a nest in a shallow depression in a small mound, often on the banks of taro patches or in low-lying vegetation areas near the water, and lines the nest with rocks and twigs. The female stilt then lays, on average, four well-camouflaged eggs that incubate for 24 to 26 days. Stilt chicks are covered with a downy, tannish-brown coat speckled with black. They leave the nest soon after hatching and generally hide under cover until ready to fly. Parents don’t feed the chick but instead help them find suitable food sources. Parents sometimes feign injury (a broken wing) in order to draw predators away from the nest and hatchlings. Many hatchling chicks don’t make it through their first months. For example, at least 44 stilt chicks were hatched on Kaua‘i’s Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge in 1994, but only one was observed to have fledged. The precise causes for this low survival rate are unknown, but all of the following may play a role: diseases, parasites, poor food supply and/or food quality, and predation by bullfrogs, cats, dogs, pigs, owls, and possibly also cattle egrets and black-crowned night-heron. Large introduced bullfrogs (Rana catesbeiana) also have been seen preying on stilt chicks. Historically, stilt populations have also suffered due to loss of wetland habitat as well as the proliferation of invasive, non-native plant species. Many stilts have died due to a soil bacteria that has caused botulism in the stilts’ food sources. This has caused sporadic but large die-offs of affected birds. [Photograph: Hawaiian Coot] [Photograph Caption:] Hawaiian Coot (Fulica alai) Hawaiian Name: ‘Alae Ke‘oke‘o or ‘Alae Kea. Endemic Subspecies. Status: Endangered Species. Found on Hawai‘i, Maui, Lāna‘i, Moloka‘i, O‘ahu, Kaua‘i. ‘Alae Ke‘oke—Hawaiian Coot ‘Alae ke‘oke‘o, the Hawaiian coot, is commonly seen inhabiting Hanalei taro patches. A subspecies of the American coot, the Hawaiian coot is about 14½ inches (37 cm) long, and mostly dark gray to black on top with white undertail feathers.[dcccl] The bill is ivory white, and so is the bulbous frontal shield, which is also called the frontal knob. While the Hawaiian moorhen (‘alae ‘ula) has a red bill (‘ula means red), the Hawaiian coot (‘alae ke‘oke or ‘alae kea) has a white bill (ke‘oke‘o and kea both mean “white”). Rarely a coot will have a brown or red frontal shield. The Hawaiian coot, was formerly considered a subspecies of the American coot (Fulica americana), which is found from Panama to Canada and occasionally seen in Hawai‘i. The Hawaiian coot, now classified as a unique species (Fulica alai), and is generally darker, has a larger frontal shield, and a more slender bill than its North American relatives. The Hawaiian coot also displays different patterns of white on its head than the American coot. Coots feed on insects, fish, and tadpoles as well as leaves and seeds of aquatic plants. Coots don’t fly much, though they are sometimes seen flying over low over the water. Nesting occurs throughout the year, particularly between March and September, on wetland vegetation or in taro patches where coots use sedges, taro stems, or other aquatic plants to construct nests that may rise and fall with changing water levels. Coots lay on average four to six eggs, which are creamy to tan-colored and speckled with black. The eggs incubate for three to four weeks. The coot chick is downy black with a reddish-orange neck and head, and a black-tipped bill. The bird has a baldish appearance due to the absence of down on the crown and forehead. Soon after hatching, the chicks are able to swim. The largest coot populations are found on Kaua‘i, O‘ahu, and Maui, with a total population of about 2,000 to 4,000 birds. Coots are known to fly between the Hawaiian Islands. [Photograph: Coot chick] [Photograph: Hawaiian Duck] [Photograph Caption:] Hawaiian Duck (Anas wyvilliana) Hawaiian Name: Koloa Maoli (“Native Duck”). Endemic Species. Status: Endangered Species. Found on Hawai‘i, O‘ahu, Kaua‘i; possibly extinct on Maui. Koloa—Hawaiian Duck The koloa population is estimated at less than 2,500 birds overall, and more than 80% of them are on Kaua‘i. Koloa are widely distributed on Kaua‘i, where more than 80% of all koloa are found. Koloa were once abundant on all of the main Hawaiian Islands except Lāna‘i and Kaho‘olawe. By 1915 koloa had become rare on all of the Hawaiian Islands except Kaua‘i. The koloa was listed as a federally endangered species in 1967. The koloa is currently listed as endangered on Hawai‘i, O‘ahu, Kaua‘i, and listed as endangered and possibly extinct on Maui. In addition to many other threats to this wetland species, koloa chicks may be eaten by dogs, cats, pigs, muskrats, rats, bass, and bullfrogs. Some koloa have been relocated to the islands of O‘ahu and Hawai‘i. Two of the largest koloa populations are found at the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge and the Alekoko (Menehune) Fishpond. The common mallard is found in North America, Europe and Asia. The endemic Hawaiian species closely resembles the female North American mallard. One threat to the koloa comes from interbreeding with domestic mallards, resulting in hybridization of the endemic Hawaiian species, which evolved from the common mallard (Anas platyrhynchos). The koloa populations on Kaua‘i in Hanalei Valley and at the Alekoko (Menehune) Fishpond are thought to be the least hybridized (and thus the most genetically pure). The koloa is mottled golden brown in color, with a greenish head and olive-colored bill. Male koloa are about 20 inches long while female koloa are about 17 inches long. Male koloa have a darker head than females, and some females have an orange-tipped bill. The koloa’s secondary wing feathers (speculum) are greenish-blue to metallic purple in color with white borders, and the duck’s feet and legs are orange. Koloa eat insects, mollusks, and aquatic vegetation. Breeding and nesting occur year round, particularly between December and May beginning at about one year of age. Koloa nest in low elevation wetland areas as well as near mountain streams, rivermouths, and taro patches. Koloa use feathers and down to build a well-hidden nest, and then lay from two to ten white to tan-colored eggs. The koloa’s average clutch size is eight eggs. Koloa eggs incubate for about 28 days before hatching, and after about nine weeks the birds learn to fly. [Photograph: Hawaiian Moorhen] [Photograph Caption:] Hawaiian Moorhen (Gallinula chloropus sandvicensis) Also called: Hawaiian Gallinule or Mudhen. Hawaiian Name: ‘Alae ‘Ula (“Red forehead”). Endemic Subspecies. Status: Endangered Species. Found on O‘ahu and Kaua‘i; possibly extinct on Hawai‘i, Maui and Moloka‘i. ‘Alae ‘Ula—Hawaiian Moorhen The Hawaiian moorhen is easily identified by its bright red forehead (frontal shield), and is frequently seen at the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge. Endemic to the Hawaiian Islands, the Hawaiian moorhen (‘alae ‘ula) is a subspecies of North America’s common moorhen, also found in Eurasia. Also called the Hawaiian gallinule, the moorhen is thought to have been quite common throughout the Hawaiian Islands in the 1800s before the population declined rapidly in the early to mid-1900s. The moorhen is listed as endangered on O‘ahu and Kaua‘i, and endangered and possibly extinct on Maui, Hawai‘i, and Moloka‘i. The Hawaiian moorhen was federally listed as endangered in 1967 and remains an endangered species today. A 1982 count by the State Division of Forestry and Wildlife documented 194 moorhen on O‘ahu and Kaua‘i with perhaps a few scattered birds on Maui and Moloka‘i. In the 1970s and 1980s, aquaculture and taro cultivation created more suitable moorhen habitat, increasing the bird’s survival rate. The moorhen’s secretive nature leads to uncertainty in current population estimates, which range from 150 to 900 birds left in the wild. Moorhen are found only on O‘ahu and Kaua‘i, with few to none on Maui and Moloka‘i and probably none on Hawai‘i. Efforts to reintroduce moorhen on Hawai‘i and Maui have not been successful. Hawaiian legend tells of how the ‘alae ‘ula brought fire from the gods to the Hawaiian people. During the journey, the moorhen was scorched by the flames, giving the bird its red frontal shield. The demigod Māui, seeking to learn the secret of making fire, caught the ‘alae ‘ula before it could hide.[dcccli] The adult Hawaiian moorhen is about 13 inches long, with a black head and neck, and a slate-gray to bluish-black back that may be somewhat iridescent. The flanks and undertail feathers of moorhen are white, and the bird’s red bill has a yellow to light green tip. Aside from its red shield, the moorhen’s dark gray plumage looks very similar to the Hawaiian coot (‘alae ke‘oke‘o). The feet are not webbed, and the yellowish-green legs and feet may show red near the top. Moorhen are generally shy and secretive, inhabiting freshwater marshes and other wetlands, including taro patches. Moorhen like to hide in dense cover, usually only coming out into the open in the morning and evening to feed. They are adept at walking across floating vegetation to feed on mollusks, insects, and aquatic plants such as taro tops and young shoots. Moorhen courtship behavior includes bowing and arching as well as nibbling. The main breeding period is March through August, though moorhen may breed year round. During breeding season the bird’s frontal shield may become enlarged and deeper red in color. A well-hidden nest is built from plants and mud, often on folded reeds. Moorhen lay from five to nine cream-colored eggs, which are spotted with grey, black and brown, and incubate for about 22 days. The downy moorhen chick has a bright red bill and pale yellow to brown body, and is able to swim soon after hatching. Immature (juvenile) moorhen are olive-brown to grayish-brown in color. [Photograph: Black-Crowned Night-Heron] [Photograph Caption:] Black-Crowned Night-Heron (Nycticorax nycticorax hoactli) Hawaiian Name: ‘Auku‘u. Indigenous: American continent. ‘Auku‘u—Black-Crowned Night-Heron The night-heron is often seen on the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge as well as near the mouth of the Hanalei River. Adult night-heron are about 25 inches long and mostly gray, with yellow legs and a black head, back, and bill. The Black-crowned night-heron in the Hawaiian Islands is indistinguishable from the North American Black-crowned night-heron. The night-heron’s wingspan is almost four feet. Night-heron are often seen standing motionless at the edges of lagoons, marshes, canefield ditches, taro patches, and exposed reef areas. They may be heard making a fairly loud “kwok” sound while flying. When in breeding plumage, the male night-heron develops four or five long, white head plumes; the female may have just two or three. These white nuptial plumes grow out from the back region of the bird’s head. Immature night-heron are streaked with white and brownish-rust colors that turn grayish as the bird matures. Kohā ka leo o ka ‘auku‘u The voice of the ‘auku‘u is heard to croak A snooping gossip. The ‘auku‘u bird lives in the upland and goes to the lowland for fish, often snatching them from people’s ponds.”[dccclii] The Black-crowned night-heron is a solitary wading bird that feeds primarily on crustaceans and fish. Night-heron also eat mice, frogs, aquatic insects, and chicks of other bird species (e.g., Hawaiian Black-necked stilts, Brown noddies, Sooty terns). The night heron feeds during the night as well as during the day, but is most active at dawn and dusk, looking for prey beneath the water. Breeding occurs around May, when the night heron uses large sticks and twigs to construct a nest in a tree, and then lays two to four, bluish-green eggs.
Open Country Birds Nēnē—Hawaiian Goose (Branta sandvicensis) [Photograph: Nēnē] [Photograph Caption:] Nēnē—The Hawaiian Goose (Branta sandvicensis). Endemic Species. Status: Endangered Species. Found on Maui, Kaua‘i, and Hawai‘i. Recent releases on Moloka‘i. Nēnē—Hawaiian Goose Kaua‘i’s nēnē population has grown rapidly during the last two decades, and nēnē flocks now inhabit many low elevation habitats, including lower Hanalei Valley, as well as higher elevations including Kōke‘e State Park. Genetic research has revealed that there was a marked decline in the population of nēnē (and other bird species) between about 1100 A.D. and 1750 A.D. These population declines (and in some case extinctions) in native Hawaiian bird species in the centuries before Western contact with the Hawaiian Islands is generally attributed to Hawaiians hunting the birds for food. Fossil records show that nēnē were once common at lower elevations on Kaua‘i, but then became extinct by the time Captain Cook arrived in 1778. Apparently the early Polynesian settlers had eliminated the nēnē on Kaua‘i, but the birds survived on other Hawaiian Islands. There were an estimated 25,000 nēnē living on Hawai‘i in 1778. Predatory animals, habitat destruction, hunting, and egg collecting eventually decimated the nēnē populations of all the Hawaiian Islands. The nēnē’s ancestors are Canadian geese. They likely first arrived in the Hawaiian Islands after being blown off course or caught in a storm many thousands of years ago. The goose then evolved into a unique Hawaiian species that is now Hawai‘i’s official state bird. Nēnē are about two feet long, typical size for geese. The head, face, and the back of the neck (the nape) are black, while the cheeks and the sides of the neck are a light tan color, with a buffy striped pattern (distinct horizontal bands). The bird’s lower body has this same light brown color and is striped, but the top of the body is a darker gray or brown. The nēnē’s bill, legs, and feet are black. The webbing between the toes on the nēnē’s feet is much reduced compared to the fuller webbing on the feet of its ancestor, the Canadian goose. The nēnē’s webbing is an adaptation better suited for walking on high, dry lava flows, a habitat frequented by nēnē on Hawai‘i Island. In flight, the sound of the nēnē is something like “ney ney.” On the ground, however, nēnē often make a noise more comparable to a cow’s moo. Nēnē aren’t very shy, and sometimes approach humans. “Unele! Unele!” wahi a ka nēnē. “Honk! Honk!” says the goose.[dcccliii] The nēnē builds its nest on the ground and lines it with feathers. This ground nesting makes them vulnerable to non-native predators, which is one reason nēnē almost became extinct. Ground predators of nēnē include mongooses, pigs, rats, and domestic animals. Kaua‘i is now considered the best Hawaiian Island for nēnē because there are no mongooses, which are well-established on the other Hawaiian Islands. By the age of two, nēnē begin laying eggs, nesting between October and March, and laying on average four or five creamy, white eggs. The mother goose sits on the eggs, which incubate for about 30 days. When the mother leaves the nest she covers the eggs with downy feathers from the nest lining. During nesting, nēnē adults go through a four to six week process called molting, and they cannot fly during this time. The infant chick is able to run around just as soon as its downy feathers dry. The chick’s parents provide food for the baby until the hatchling is about ten to twelve weeks old, when the gosling learns to fly.
Migratory Species—Seasonal Residents and Occasional Visitors ØKōlea—Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva ØMōlī—Laysan Albatross Diomedea immutabilis ØKoloa Mohā—Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata ØKoloa Māpu—Northern Pintail Anas acuta ØHunakai—Sanderling Calidris alba ØGreen-Winged Teal Anas crecca ØBlue-Winged Teal Anas discors ØBufflehead Bucephala albeola ØBaikal Teal Anas formosa ØWhite-Faced Ibis Plegadis chihi The migratory bird species described in this section may be seen on the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, except for sanderlings, plovers, and albatross, which are more commonly seen elsewhere in the region. Sanderlings are often seen along the sandy shoreline of Hanalei Bay, while plovers are seen on the grass lawns of Wai‘oli Park or in the yards of local residents. Albatross are rarely seen at the Refuge but frequently seen along the ocean cliffs of Princeville and in nearby yards, as well as atop the ocean cliffs that extend toward Kīlauea and beyond. All of these migratory bird species are considered native to the Hawaiian Islands, though some are considered non-resident migratory birds and only spend a relatively short time in Hawai‘i before moving on along their migratory routes. [Photograph: Pacific Golden Plover] Pacific Golden Plover (Pluvialis fulva) Hawaiian Name: Kōlea. Migratory: In Hawai‘i approximately from September to May. Kōlea kai piha. Plover, bird of high tides. The plover feeds along the edge of the sea.[dcccliv] Kōlea—Pacific Golden Plover Pacific golden plovers are about eleven inches long, weigh about ½-pound, and live to about eight years of age. Plovers are dark brown, and spotted with gold on top, but paler on the underside, with a large, dark eye region and a fairly large head relative to their body. Migrating to the Hawaiian Islands during fall to feed, plovers return north to Alaska again for the summer months to lay their eggs. This is similar to the migration pattern of koholā (humpback whales) that also spend their winters in Hawai‘i and return north for summer, but whales give birth in Hawaiian waters and feed in their northern habitat, while the plovers feed in the Islands and lay their eggs in the north. After spending May, June, and July on the Alaskan tundra, plovers head south around August. Some plovers arrive in Hawai‘i as early as July. The plovers often arrive in flocks that disperse once they reach the Hawaiian Islands. The plover’s non-stop flight between Alaska and Hawai‘i may cover more than 3,500 miles (5,633 km) but takes less than three days.[dccclv] Before leaving the Hawaiian Islands in April, the female plover molts into a beautiful beige-gold breeding plumage. The male plover gets a “tuxedo” look, with a pure white stripe along the sides of the head and down the neck. The abdomen, breast, cheek, and throat are black. During its winter stay in the Hawaiian Islands, the plover feeds on insects and other invertebrates, as well as certain flowers and leaves. Plovers often run in short bursts, intermittently stopping to look for insects, and feed for about four months in the Hawaiian Islands to fatten up for the long journey north. Plovers are known to return to the same general area each year to feed, and often return to the very same patch of lawn or pasture where they remain throughout the season. In the Hawaiian Islands the plover is very territorial, and will defend its feeding area against other plovers, though it will often ignore other bird species. Some plovers move around a bit more, and are not as territorial when it comes to their feeding grounds. Plovers are generally solitary birds during their stay in Hawai‘i, often gathering together in large flocks just before they head north. During their long migration, plovers fly at elevations up to 20,000 feet at speeds of about 60 to 70 miles per hour, and with a tailwind they may exceed 100 mph,[dccclvi] completing the flight to the northern breeding grounds in about 50 to 60 hours. Once plovers reach their nesting grounds on the Alaskan and Siberian tundra, the male builds a nest lined with lichens and leaves. Plovers typically lay four, greenish-brown eggs, one every other day. The eggs are incubated by the female at night and the male during the day. Males also share in the duties of caring for the chick Less than a month after hatching, the downy goslings and ducklings begin to fledge (learn to fly). In early August the parents leave, and then the chicks follow about one or two months later. Somehow the new generation of plovers finds their way to the remote Hawaiian archipelago thousands of miles away, and then they too repeat the journey each year. Plovers have also been seen in South Pacific Islands, and these plovers may be migrating much farther than the birds that winter in Hawai‘i. Some plovers may remain in the Hawaiian Islands during the summer months. Researchers are working to track plover migrations, estimate population size, and learn more about plovers are being coordinated through the website: www.hawaii.edu/bird. The Pacific golden plover population is currently estimated at about 2,500 birds. [Photograph: Laysan Albatross] Mōlī—Laysan Albatross (Diomedea immutabilis). Hawaiian Name: Mōlī. Migratory: Seasonal Resident (in Hawai‘i approximately from October to July). Mōlī—Laysan Albatross Laysan albatross are white, with black on their upper wings and around their eyes, and may be nearly three feet long with a wingspan of up to 80 inches.[dccclvii] Adult Laysan albatross weigh from five to seven pounds, making them the largest seabirds in the entire Pacific region. Adult albatross perform elaborate courtship dances with each other along Princeville’s oceanside cliffs and other nearby coastal bluffs. Then they breed, nest, lay their eggs, and nurture their young. The fat and fluffy baby albatross sometimes appear to be even bigger than their parents. Soon the albatross parents leave, and the young ones must learn to fly on their own. When the fledglings finally heads out to sea, they won’t return until years later when they are ready to nest. Laysan albatross sometimes have difficulty taking off for flight unless they can run down a slope or use some other suitable launching area. Once in the air, however, Laysan albatross are superb fliers able to soar for hours without flapping their wings, and sometimes even sleeping while airborne. Albatross may live for over 40 years, and may stay at sea up to five or more years before returning to land to nest. The birds spend the summer months 1,000 miles or more from Hawai‘i over the waters of the North Pacific. Laysan albatross feed mostly on large squid as well as the eggs of the mālolo (flying fish). The albatross fish from a sitting position on the surface, making them vulnerable to shark attacks. Laysan albatross usually arrive in the Hawaiian Islands by late October or early November, and stay at their nesting areas until June or July. From their nesting areas the albatross may fly thousands of miles in search of food before returning to feed their young. Laysan albatross prefer to nest in the same area where they were born, and tend to mate with the same partner for life. The female lays one egg in a nest depression, usually in November or December. The parents alternate tending the egg, which incubates for about two months before hatching.[dccclviii] After about 5½ months the chicks fledge (learn to fly). During albatross nesting season in the Hawaiian Islands, the birds perform bizarre mating dances that include prancing around with their mate and thrusting their beaks skyward along with bill snapping and vocalizations. These courtship displays, as well as the difficulty the chicks have learning to fly, are likely reasons for the nickname “gooney bird.” On Kaua‘i, Laysan albatross have been making a comeback, particularly at Kīlauea Lighthouse National Wildlife Refuge on the island’s north shore, and at the Pacific Missile Range Facility on Kaua‘i’s southwest shore. Most albatross in the Hawaiian archipelago are found on the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands, a group of reefs, islets and atolls located hundreds of miles northwest of Kaua‘i. At the far northwest of the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands are the French Frigate Shoals, Midway Atoll and Kure Atoll, which are home to Hawai‘i’s largest albatross populations. Midway Atoll has the largest Laysan albatross population anywhere, with nearly 400,000 nesting pairs. Midway also has nearly 20,000 black-footed albatross (Diomeda nigripes) and there are occasional sightings of the rarely seen short-tailed albatross (Diomedea albatrus), which is federally listed as an endangered species. The short-tailed albatross is also known as the golden gooney because of its yellow head and neck feathers and its pink bill. [Photograph: Northern Shoveler] Northern Shoveler (Anas clypeata) Hawaiian Name: Koloa Mohā. Migratory Waterbird: Winter Visitor in Hawai‘i. Koloa Mohā—Northern Shoveler The northern shoveler is a small duck distinguished by its orange legs and feet, its long and broad, spatulate (spoon-shaped) bill, and a patch of blue on the forewing in both sexes. Northern shovelers are about 17 to 20 inches (43 to 51 cm) long. The male northern shoveler is dark on top with a white breast and a dark green head. The bill is black on drakes, and brown (bordered with orange) on hens. The bird’s sides and belly are rufous-colored (reddish, rusty, or chestnut), and the posterior is black. In autumn, the male northern shoveler may have a fuzzy crescent of white in front of the eye region. Females are mottled brown (sandy) in color with an orange bill, while males have a black bill.[dccclix] [Photograph: Northern Pintail] Northern Pintail (Anas acuta) Hawaiian Name: Koloa Māpu (“Wind-blown Duck”)**[dccclx]** Migratory Waterbird: Winter Visitor in Hawai‘i (relatively common). Koloa Māpu—Northern Pintail The northern pintail is a relatively common visitor to the Hawaiian Islands, and is distinguished by its long slender neck, long pointed tail, and narrow, brown speculum (secondary wing feathers) with a white border on the rear edge. The male northern pintail is about 28 inches long and generally grayish in color, with a white breast and dark brown head. A vertical line of white runs up the male’s neck and comes to a point on the side of the head. Female northern pintails are smaller than males, measuring about 21 inches long and mottled brown in color with a gray to dark bill. The female’s sharp-pointed tail is shorter than the tail of the male. Northern pintails range from the northern parts of the Northern Hemisphere to their wintering grounds as far south as the northern parts of South America, Africa, and India. [Photograph: Sanderling] Sanderling (Calidris alba) Hawaiian Name: Hunakai (“Sea Foam”)**[dccclxi]** Migratory Seasonal Resident: Winter Visitor in Hawai‘i (approximately from August to April). Hunakai—Sanderling Sanderlings are often seen along the sandy shoreline of Hanalei Bay where they run along the water’s edge and dash up and down the beach with each ebb and flow of the breaking waves. As each wave recedes, the sanderling pecks away beneath the surface to feed on invertebrates. The sanderling is about eight inches long, with black legs and a slender, black bill. The bird’s winter plumage is gray above, white below, and dark on the shoulder area. When in breeding plumage, the sanderling’s breast, back, and head are reddish brown. [Photograph: Green-Winged Teal] Green-Winged Teal (Anas crecca) Migratory Waterbird: Winter Visitor in Hawai‘i. Green-Winged Teal The green-winged teal is generally grayish-brown, with green wings and a deep green speculum (secondary wing feathers). The belly is white, as are the shoulders, which are seen in flight. Both male and female green-winged teal measure about 14½ inches long. The male green-winged teal has a brown to chestnut-colored (or rusty-colored) head with a green streak behind the eye (postocular). Near the green-winged teal’s shoulder is a vertical bar of white. Female green-winged teal are speckled brown in color with a light stripe of white above the eye. The bird’s legs and bill are gray. Green-winged teal range from the northern parts of North America to their wintering grounds as far south as Central America and the West Indies. The green-winged teal that are seen in the Hawaiian Islands are mostly of the American variety, but Eurasian varieties have also been seen in the Islands.
[Photograph: Blue-winged Teal] Blue-Winged Teal (Anas discors) Migratory Waterbird: Occasional Winter Visitor in Hawai‘i. Blue-Winged Teal The blue-winged teal is a small duck measuring about 15½ inches long, with a blue-black bill, a blue patch on the forewing, and a brown breast spotted with black. The blue-winged teal has a longer bill than the green-winged teal. The male blue-winged teal has a gray head with a crescent of white on the face curving in front of the eye, and a dark posterior flanked with white. The feet and legs are orange. Both sexes have a pale blue patch on the forewing. Female blue-winged teal are more of a mottled brown color. Blue-winged teal range from Canada to the southern United States during their summer breeding season, and then winter as far south as Argentina. [Photograph: Bufflehead] Bufflehead (Bucephala albeola) Migratory Waterbird: Occasional Winter Visitor in Hawai‘i. Bufflehead Bufflehead are occasional visitors to the Hawaiian Islands, and are sometimes seen on the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge. Both male and female bufflehead are relatively small, measuring about 14 inches long. Most bufflehead seen in the Islands are females, which are darker in color (dusty brown) than males. Females also have a white spot on the cheek (white ear patch), and have a smaller bill than the male. The bufflehead in flight reveals a large, white wing patch, which is smaller on the female than the male. The male bufflehead is predominantly white with a black back and relatively small, stubby bill. The head has a patch of white that makes the bird look somewhat like it is wearing a white bonnet. The head’s black region may show glossy purple-green.[dccclxii] [Photograph: Baikal Teal] Baikal Teal (Anas formosa) Migratory Waterbird: Occasional Winter Visitor in Hawai‘i. Baikal Teal Another occasional visitor to Hanalei is the baikal teal, which is about 17 inches long. The male baikal teal has a cream-colored circular pattern on its cheeks, while the female is distinguished by a white spot near its bill. The male’s eyebrow stripe (supercilium) is continuous over the eye, while the female’s eyebrow stripe is broken by the eye region. [Photograph: White-Faced Ibis] White-Faced Ibis (Plegadis chihi) Migratory Waterbird: Occasional Winter Visitor in Hawai‘i. White-Faced Ibis The white-faced ibis is occasionally seen amidst the taro fields of the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge. When not in breeding plumage (e.g., when in the Hawaiian Islands), the white-faced ibis is dark-colored with dark gray legs, a glossy green body, gray facial area, and pale streaks along the neck area. The bill is down-curved, and the iris is red (or brown when the bird is a juvenile). In breeding plumage, the ibis’ red face area is bordered with white feathers, and its body is chestnut colored. The white-faced ibis breeds in the western region of North America.
D. Seabirds Ø‘Iwa—Great Frigatebird Fregata minor palmerstoni Ø‘A‘o—Newell’s (Townsend’s) Shearwater Puffinus auricularis newelli Ø‘Ua‘u Kani—Wedge-Tailed Shearwater Puffinus pacificus chlororhynchus ØKoa‘e Kea—White-Tailed Tropicbird Phaethon lepturus dorotheae ØKoa‘e ‘Ula—Red-Tailed Tropicbird Phaethon rubricauda rothschildi [Illustration: Frigatebird (wing profile)] [Photograph: Frigatebird, red throat pouch] Great Frigatebird (Fregata minor palmerstoni) Hawaiian Name: ‘Iwa (“Thief”)**[dccclxiii]** Also called: Man-O’War. Great Frigatebird Often seen flying over Kaua‘i’s north shore, the great frigatebird has a forked tail, bent wings, and a wingspan that may exceed seven feet, making it appear somewhat like an ancient pterodactyl in flight. Frigatebirds are also called “man-o’war birds,” a name given to them by sailors who thought they resembled the favorite pirate vessels known as frigates. Some ancient mariners kept frigatebirds on their ships. The sailors knew that when a frigatebird was released it would fly straight toward land, helping the sailors know which way to go. Frigatebirds feathers were also utilized in ancient Hawaiian featherwork. There are five kinds of frigatebirds in the world, but the only type of frigatebird in Hawai‘i is ‘iwa, also known as the great frigatebird. Frigatebirds are a wide-ranging species. Frigatebirds banded in Hawai‘i have later been seen in thePhilippines. Despite the frigatebird’s large wingspan and a body length averaging 43 inches, frigatebirds usually weigh less than three pounds. Females are black with some white feathers on the upper breast and throat, while males have all black feathers.[dccclxiv] Female frigatebirds are generally bigger than males. He ‘iwa ho‘ohaehae nāulu. An ‘iwa that teases the rain clouds. A beautiful maiden or handsome youth who rouses jealous envy in others.[dccclxv] Male frigatebirds have an inflatable red pouch of skin under their throat. They often blow up this throat (gular) pouch like a balloon, usually when they are near a colony of birds and want to get a female’s attention. In breeding season the males gather together and show off their puffed up red throat pouches. Frigatebirds can glide for several hours with very little effort, often soaring at heights above 500 feet, the highest of any of Hawai‘i’s seabirds. This soaring ability is particularly helpful to frigatebirds because they have very little webbing between their toes and don’t land on the water if they can avoid it. Frigatebirds also lack oil glands to waterproof their feathers, and they don’t dive beneath the ocean’s surface for fish as some other seabirds do. Frigatebirds sometimes dive extremely fast through the air, and may engage in sharp spiraling turns. They are probably the most acrobatic of all of Hawai‘i’s seabirds, and may chase and dive down upon red-footed boobies, shearwaters, and other seabirds to force them to drop or disgorge their food. Then with agility and speed the frigatebird swoops down and catches the food before it hits the water. This food piracy explains how the frigatebird got its Hawaiian name, ‘iwa, which means “thief.” In addition to stealing food from other seabirds, frigatebirds fly low over the water and use their long, hooked bills to grab floating food, including squid, fish, newly hatched sea turtles, and even mālolo (flying fish). Frigatebirds are migratory, traveling between their nesting areas and places where food is more plentiful. Most frigatebird nesting occurs on the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands. Most of Hawai‘i’s frigatebirds nest on the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands, which begin hundreds of miles northwest of Kaua‘i. Frigatebirds are seen near in the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands during winter months, and are seen on the main Hawaiian Islands more often in summer. Frigatebirds are also known to nest on Ka‘ula Island, which is about 22 miles southwest of Ni‘ihau and also on Mokumanu (“Bird Island”), off of Mōkapu Point on the east side of O‘ahu. Frigatebirds are biennial breeders (nesting every other year), beginning at about five years of age. Frigatebirds usebranches and twigs to build relatively flat nests in bushes or other vegetation. Females lay one white egg around March or April, and both male and female frigatebirds take turns incubating the egg. After about 1½ months, the frigatebird chick hatches and is soon covered with white, downy feathers.[dccclxvi]Shearwater chicks are fed by the adults about every 18 hours. The chick stays in the nest about 4½ months before growing adult feathers and fledging (learning to fly), which usually occurs in October. [Photograph: Newell’s shearwater] [Photograph: Newell’s shearwater in burrow] Newell’s (Townsend’s) Shearwater (Puffinus auricularis newelli) Hawaiian Name: ‘A‘o. Endemic Subspecies. Status: Threatened subspecies. Found on Kaua‘i, O‘ahu, and Hawai‘i. Newell’s Shearwater The Newell’s shearwater has a black back, a white breast, and is about 13 inches long with a wingspan that may exceed three feet. Newell’s shearwaters breed on the Hawaiian Islands from April to November, flying to their nesting colonies each day at dark and leaving again before dawn. The sound of the Newell’s shearwater is a repeated “ah-oh,” which explains their Hawaiian name, ‘a‘o. The sounds of the birds above the colonies at night have been described as similar to the sounds of crying babies, mules, or even ghoulish laughter. He ‘a‘o ka manu noho i ka lua, ‘a‘ole e loa‘a i ka lima ke nao aku. It is an ‘a‘o, a bird that lives in a burrow and cannot be caught even when the arm is thrust into the hole. Said of a person who is too smart to be caught.[dccclxvii] Newell’s shearwaters spend about six months over the eastern tropical Pacific before returning, usually in April, to their mountain nesting sites, which are often located in areas dense with uluhe ferns. Newell’s shearwaters often skim close the surface of the ocean and then plunge into the water to catch fish or squid they spot from the air.[dccclxviii] Webbed feet allow the Newell’s shearwater to kick off from the water’s surface.[dccclxix] [Photograph: Wedge-tailed shearwater] Wedge-Tailed Shearwaters (Puffinus pacificus chlororhynchus) Hawaiian name: ‘Ua‘u Kani. Indigenous (migratory). Wedge-Tailed Shearwater The most commonly seen Hawaiian seabird offshore of the main Hawaiian Islands is the wedge-tailed shearwater. Brownish-gray and about 18 inches (46 cm) long, the wedge-tailed shearwater has a pointed beak, wedge-shaped tail, and a wingspan of about three feet. Birds in the “light phase” (most Hawaiian wedge-tailed shearwaters) are dark on top but whitish-colored underneath. Wedge-tailed shearwaters nest in ground burrows, which are small little caves dug about two to three feet into the hillside. The shearwaters begin preparing their nests in April and lay a single white egg in June. Each parent sits on the egg for about ten days at a time as the other parent feeds at sea. The shearwater chick hatches after about 52 days, usually in August. The parents share the duties of feeding partly digested food (regurgitated squid and fish) to the nestling. About two weeks before the chick fledges (learns to fly), the parents leave. During this time the chicks must survive on their own stored fat until they learn to fly and can seek food on their own. Wedge-tailed shearwaters are often called “the moaning birds” because they make strange wailing or crying sounds when they are settled in their colonies, particularly at dawn and dusk. The literal translation of the wedge-tailed shearwater’s name, ‘ua‘u kani, is “calling ‘ua‘u,” which describes the sound made by the bird. The shearwaters’ habit of gliding so close to the surface of the water that they appeared to slice or cut it caused English sailors to name the bird “wedge-tailed.” Like Laysan albatross, wedge-tailed shearwaters return to the same location where they were born to lay their eggs.[dccclxx] The chicks hatch in July or August, and after about 3½ months the chicks fledge.[dccclxxi] [Sidebar:] [Photograph: Shearwater aid station at Hanalei Liquor Store] Rescuing Shearwaters In autumn, the fledgling Newell’s shearwaters on Kaua‘i’s north shore leave their colonies and head for the sea where they begin feeding on their own for the first time. During this maiden journey the birds often become confused by bright lights near roadways and other areas. This causes the birds to become disoriented and land, making them vulnerable to predators such as cats and dogs, and other hazards including cars. Local residents are encouraged to rescue stranded shearwaters and leave them in small, protected cages provided at “aid stations.” Hanalei’s aid station is located near the Hanalei Liquor Store.[dccclxxii] Birds left at the aid stations are picked up each morning by state and federal wildlife biologists.[dccclxxiii] [End Sidebar] Red-Tailed Tropicbird (Phaethon rubricauda rothschildi) Hawaiian Name: Koa‘e ‘Ula. White-Tailed Tropicbird (Phaethon lepturus dorotheae) Hawaiian Name: Koa‘e Kea. Tropicbirds are often seen gliding over Kaua‘i’s north shore, particularly near the Kīlauea National Wildlife Refuge and along the Nāpali Coast. Their long, thin bodies effortlessly soar high above the ocean and over the mountain valleys. The red-tailed tropicbird and the white-tailed tropicbird are both almost all white in color, but the red-tailed tropicbird has a red bill and red tail feathers while the white-tailed tropicbird has a yellow bill and white tail feathers. Both species plunge dive into the water as deep as ten feet to catch fish and squid, and tropicbirds may give a loud scream-like sound while in flight. [Illustration: Tropicbirds soaring.] Ke koa‘e iho ia, he manu lele no ka pali kahakō. That is the tropic bird, one that flies at the sheer cliffs. Said of a person who is hard to catch.[dccclxxiv] The red-tailed tropicbird has a 44-inch wingspan and is about 39 inches long, compared to the 36-inch wingspan and 27-inch length of the white-tailed tropicbird. Red-tailed tropicbirds also have two long, red tail feathers as well as black feathers around their eyes. White-tailed tropicbirds have black eye stripes, long, white tail feathers, and black bars across their wings and back.[dccclxxv] Tropicbirds are extremely graceful in flight, but awkward on land due to the their fully webbed feet. Breeding extends from March to October. Red-tailed tropicbirds are known for their elaborate displays of courtship during flight, sometimes repeatedly circling each other in an upward and backwards flight motion. A tropicbird engaged in this backward flight appears a bit like it is rowing a boat, and may be nearly stationary in the wind during this elaborate courtship dance, which usually lasts less than ten seconds. The red-tailed tropicbird lays its eggs on the ground, usually under a shrub, beach vegetation or a rock overhang. The white-tailed tropicbird may nest inland and along the coastline, and lays its egg on a crater wall or on a ledge on a steep cliff face. The chicks of both birds are fully feathered after about six weeks, and by about two months of age they learn to fly. Ancient Hawaiians utilized feathers from both the red-tailed and white-tailed tropicbirds to make royal feather standards called kāhili, symbols of chiefly rank consisting of feather clusters attached to long poles.[dccclxxvi] [Photograph: Side by side comparison photos of red-tailed tropicbird and white-tailed tropicbird] ‘Au i ke kai me he manu ala. Cross the sea as a bird. To sail across the sea. Also applied to a hill that juts out into the sea or is seen from far out at sea.[dccclxxvii]
Timeline of the History of Hanalei
c.4000 B.C.—Ancient mariners in voyaging canoes migrate outward from the Southeast Asian mainland, eventually inhabiting hundreds of Pacific islands. The seafaring voyagers first migrate from Taiwan and China to the Philippines andIndonesia, then to West Polynesia, East Polynesia, New Zealand, and eventually Tonga, Samoa, and the Hawaiian Islands.[dccclxxviii] By A.D. 1200 these ancient voyagers settle nearly every habitable island over some ten million square miles of the Pacific Ocean. c.2500 B.C.—A shallow marine bay fills the area that is now Hanalei’s coastal plain. The bay begins a seaward regression as sea levels drop from about 4,700 years ago to about 2,050 years ago, during the middle to late Holocene epoch.[dccclxxix] c.1500 B.C.—The Lapita, an ancient Pacific Ocean people, migrate eastward from the Bismarck Archipelago, a group of volcanic islands off the east coast of New Guinea in the southwest Pacific. The eastward expansion of this Early Eastern Lapita people continues an early migration into the Western Pacific from Southeast Asia, and eventually gives rise to the Polynesians.[dccclxxx] c.1000 B.C.-900 B.C.—Western Polynesia (including Tonga and Samoa) is first settled and becomes the homeland of the Polynesians who develop a Proto-Polynesian language that leads to at least 36 documented Polynesian languages.[dccclxxxi] c.500 B.C.—c.A.D. 1000—Polynesian settlers migrate north, east, and southwest, and settle Eastern Polynesia,[dccclxxxii]including the Marquesas Islands, Society Islands, Austral Islands, Cook Islands, and eventually New Zealand, Rapa Nui (Easter Island), and eventually the Hawaiian Islands. Orthodox theories of migration state that eastern Polynesia was settled by voyagers from Samoa around 2,300 years ago, but more recent research concludes that eastern Polynesia was only settled about 1,500 years ago.[dccclxxxiii] c.300—1000—Polynesian voyagers sailing double-hulled voyaging canoes become the first settlers of the Hawaiian Islands, probably coming from the Marquesas Islands, about 2,500 miles to the southeast. The Marquesas Islands are a ring of ten steep volcanic islands about 2,500 miles (4,023 km) southeast of Hawai‘i, 740 miles (1,191 km) northeast of Tahiti, and 3,700 miles (5,955 km) west of Peru. In 2006, University of California archaeologist Patrick Kirch and University of Hawai‘i archaeology professor Barry Rolett affirmed their conclusions that the Hawaiian Islands were likely settled around 900 A.D., and this may have occurred even before the Marquesas Islands were settled. Bishop Museum archeologist Yosi Sinoto was skeptical of the later dates, favoring instead earlier settlement dates for the Hawaiian Islands. Previous earlier estimates of settlement of Rapa Nui (Easter Island) as early as 400 A.D., based on radiocarbon dating, were discredited by new analyses performed by University of Hawai‘i archaeology professor Terry Hunt, who instead estimates settlement of the island at about 1250 A.D. based on dating of charcoal samples and rat-eaten palm nuts (Polynesian rats were brought to virtually all the islands that the Polynesians inhabited). Hunt’s results were published in the March, 2006 journal of Science. The Polynesian settlers bring with them pua‘a (pigs), moa (chickens), ‘īlio (dogs), and more than two dozen species of plants that provide material for food, clothing, cordage, and many other uses. They construct houses of pili grass (twisted beardgrass) and other thatching materials fastened to a wooden frame. The settlers clear the lowland forests to plant kalo (taro), eating the taro’s lū‘au (leaves) and pounding the underground tubers (corms) into poi, a staple of their diet. They catch a variety of fish and shellfish from the ocean, and eat honu (sea turtles) as well as limu (seaweed). In the coastal shallows they build large loko i‘a (fishponds) that they keep well stocked. c.1200—A second major wave of immigrants to the Island, this time from Tahiti, conquer and dominate the earlier Marquesan settlers.[dccclxxxiv] c.1200 (possibly much earlier)[dccclxxxv]—Taro is farmed in Hanalei Valley in large, irrigated pondfields known as lo‘i kalo (taro patches). Networks of ‘auwai (irrigation channels), bring water to the taro. Agricultural terraces are also cultivated on the surrounding hillsides. c.1300—Contact with southern Polynesia ceases or severely diminishes, and Hawaiians no longer complete long-distance, open-ocean voyages. A unique Hawaiian culture continues to evolve. The existence of the sweet potato in Polynesia by 1000 A.D. suggests South American contact because the sweet potato is indigenous to South America. Polynesians may have sailed to South America, or the sweet potato may have been brought to Polynesia or arrived by some other means.
1778, January 18—British Captain James Cook, on a voyage of discovery for England and in command of the HMS Discovery and HMS Resolution, comes in sight of O‘ahu and then Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau, becoming the first (documented) non-Polynesian to reach the Hawaiian Islands. The following day (January 19), Cook anchors his ships off the mouth of Kaua‘i’s Wailua River, and barters with the natives. The ship’s crew trades nails and pieces of iron for water, pigs, fowl, plantains, sweet potatoes, and taro corms. On Jan. 20, 1778, Cook and some of his men go ashore for the first time at Waimea Bay on Kaua‘i’s southwest side. c.1780—Birth of Kaumuali‘i, the future ruler of Kaua‘i, to Kā‘eokūlani [Kā‘eo] and Kamakahelei. [Sidebar:] King Kaumuali‘i (c.1780-1824) Parents: Kā‘eokūlani [Kā‘eo] (father) and Kamakahelei (mother). Grandparents: Kekaulikenuiahumanu [Kekaulike] and Holau (parents of Kā‘eokūlani [Kā‘eo]). Son: George P. (Prince) Kaumuali‘i (Humehume). Grandchildren: Queen Kapi‘olani, Virginia Kapo‘oloku Po‘omaikelani, and Esther Kinoiki Kekaulike (children of Kūhiō and Kinoiki). Favorite Queen: Deborah Kapule (Kekaiha‘akūlou). Summary of Life of Kaumuali‘i:
Paramount ruler (king) of Kaua‘i.
Ceded the island of Kaua‘i to King Kamehameha I in 1810, allowing King Kamehameha I to declare Hawai‘i one nation.
Supported Russian occupation (led by Georg Anton Schäffer) of Kaua‘i in 1816.
Pledged his allegiance to King Kamehameha II (Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho) on September 16, 1821, at Waimea, Kaua‘i, and accepted Liholiho’s sovereignty.
Taken prisoner by King Kamehameha II (Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho) on September 16, 1821, and taken to O‘ahu.
On October 9, 1821, Kaumuali‘i married kuhina nui (premier) Ka‘ahumanu, former queen as favorite wife of King Kamehameha I.
[End Sidebar] 1810—King Kamehameha I meets Kaua‘i’s King Kaumuali‘i in Honolulu and Kaumuali‘i signs a treaty ceding Kaua‘i to Kamehameha. To avoid war against Kamehameha’s superior forces, Kaumuali‘i agrees to place Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau under Kamehameha’s control and pledges allegiance to Kamehameha. With this act, all the islands are finally united under a single ruler, and King Kamehameha I declares Hawai‘i to be one nation. Kaumuali‘i is allowed to remain high chief of Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau under Kamehameha. 1815, January 31—The Russian ship Behring becomes stranded on the shores of Kaua‘i’s Waimea Bay. The ship’s cargo of sealskins is taken to Makaweli by King Kaumuali‘i, causing the Russian-American Company (the owner of the ship and its cargo) to send Georg Anton Schäffer to retrieve the cargo or seek appropriate payment. 1816—Kaumuali‘i, Kaua‘i’s vassal ruler, signs a document with Georg Anton Schäffer that puts Kaua‘i under the protection of the Russian Empire, though neither Schäffer nor Kaumuali‘i has the authority for such an agreement. In exchange for the ship Lydia, Schäffer is given Hanalei Valley. Presumably Schäffer is to assume something similar to the traditional role of konohiki, or headman of the Hanalei ahupua‘a (natural watershed land division), along with the land and fishing rights accompany such a position. 1816, November—Lieutenant Otto von Kotzebue arrives in Hawai‘i on the Russian Navy brig Rurik and repudiates the activities of Georg Anton Schäffer, informing King Kamehameha that Schäffer and Kaumuali‘i do not have the support of the Russian Emperor. Problems come to a head in December when natives kill a Russian and set fire to some buildings near FortAlexander above the Hanalei rivermouth. Aleuts from Russian Alaska use water from the marsh below the fort in an attempt to extinguish the flames.[dccclxxxvi] 1824, April 5—The ship Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i (Pride of Hawai‘i), the ship-of-state of the Hawaiian monarchy, becomes shipwrecked on the reef just offshore of the mouth of the Wai‘oli River in Hanalei Bay. Built in 1816 in Massachusetts and measuring 100 feet (30 m) long on its deck, the Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i was originally named Cleopatra’s Barge, and cost about $50,000 to build and another $50,000 to furnish (see 1995). 1831, August 27—Englishman Richard Charlton, the British Consul for Hawai‘i in Honolulu, secures a 20-year lease from Kaua‘i’s Governor Kaikio‘ewa for a portion of Hanalei from the eastern side of Hanalei Valley to Kalihiwai. With about 100 head of cattle, Charlton begins Kaua‘i’s first cattle ranch. Charlton’s fee for use of the land is an amount of lumber totaling 560 boards, to be used for a home for King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli).[dccclxxxvii] 1832—Native Hawaiians at Wai‘oli erect a large pole-and-thatch building for use by missionaries during their visits to the area. 1832—American missionary William Patterson Alexander (a Presbyterian pastor and teacher from Kentucky), his wife Mary Ann, and their young son William DeWitt, arrive in the Hawaiian Islands. The Alexanders had previously served in the Marquesas Islands. 1834, April—The pole-and-thatch building constructed for use by missionaries at Wai‘oli burns down. 1834, August 21, 22—Reverend William Patterson Alexander, his wife Mary Ann, and their young son William DeWitt sail a double-hulled canoe belonging to Governor Kaikio‘ewa for 8½ hours from Kaua‘i’s Waimea Bay along the Nāpali coast at night, and in the morning arrive at the Wai‘oli rivermouth in Hanalei Bay. Governor Kaikio‘ewa had donated land at Wai‘oli for a school and church. The Alexanders are accompanied on their journey to Wai‘oli by about 75 people, including David (Davida) Papohaku (Stone-wall) from the church of Father Whitney at Waimea.[dccclxxxviii] 1834—Missionary William Alexander erects a cookhouse at Wai‘oli. Coral limestone blocks are cut from the shallows near the mouth of Waipā stream for use in the foundation, the front steps, and the chimney (this cookhouse later becomes part of the Wai‘oli Mission House—see 1840). (Note: These pieces of coral placed by Alexander can still be seen today at the restored Wai‘oli Mission House.) Initially about 700 people attend worship at the Wai‘oli meetinghouse on the Sabbath, and church membership stands at 80 members. 1834—Joel P. Dedman, a neighbor of the Alexanders in Wai‘oli, receives a grant of land from Kaua‘i’s Governor Kaikio‘ewa for the cultivation of sugarcane. The mill is comprised of wooden rollers placed on end and turned by horse power. The cane is fed in from the side and crushed by the rollers to extract the juice, which is then boiled down in a whaler’s trypot. 1835—Missionaries estimate the population of the Halele‘a district at 3,107 people.[dccclxxxix] 1836—Reverend William Alexander begins acquiring native ‘ōhi‘a lehua timber from the mountains behind the Wai‘oli mission for a Western-style frame house at Wai‘oli. 1836, October—Missionary Hiram Bingham visits the Alexanders at Wai‘oli. During this time the Alexanders have their third son. In November, the frame of the new Mission House is erected. c.1836—Englishman Captain Kellett, known for his long, white hair, arrives in Hanalei and becomes Hanalei’s Pilot of the Port. Kellett later constructs a house on a bluff known as Lanihuli, which overlooks the ocean near the mouth of the Hanalei River. Kellett lives in the Lanihuli house for many years. 1836-1844—Charles Titcomb leases 90 acres of land on the Hanalei River from King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) and attempts to build an industry of silk production in Hanalei, including an extensive cocoonery. By 1840, about 100,000 mulberry trees are growing, and this is enough to feed an estimated 500,000 silkworms imported from China and America.[dcccxc] 1837—The new Wai‘oli Mission House is completed. The two-story, four-room, Western-style, timber-framed structure becomes home to the Alexanders. 1837—Edward Johnson and his wife Lois arrive at the Wai‘oli mission from New Hampshire to help Reverend Alexander direct the Wai‘oli mission schools and begin a Select School for older boys. Also in 1837, winds destroy the missionary meetinghouse at Wai‘oli. The structure is erected again, but plans are begun for a more durable structure, which is completed in 1841. 1838, January 27—The framing and thatching is completed on a 40-foot by 24-foot (12-m by 7-m) schoolhouse at Wai‘oli. A Western style, wood-framed home is built for Reverend and Mrs. Johnson, who teach at the Wai‘oli mission station. The home is constructed adjacent to the home of the Alexanders (the Wai‘oli Mission House). 1839—Seven acres of sugar cane are planted at Wai‘oli to raise money to build a church and schoolhouse. 1840s—Throughout the 1840s the valleys of Hanalei and Wai‘oli produce an abundance of fruits, including oranges, peaches, pineapples, and bananas. Coffee soon becomes a dominant crop in the region, and cattle ranching also becomes a significant land use. Taro is still grown, but the acreage farmed for taro decreases due to Western influences that lead to a decrease in traditional food production, and foreign diseases that result in a tragic decline in the native population. 1840—The Alexanders are visited at Wai‘oli by members of the Wilkes Expedition, a United States exploring expedition. Also in 1840, Reverend William Alexander adds a dining room and pantry to the Wai‘oli Mission House, and the new structure connects the cookhouse and the main mission dwelling. 1840s—Hubertson’s Store, Hanalei’s first trading store, is built and run near the Hanalei rivermouth by an Englishman named Hubertson. 1840-1841—Richard Charlton, the British Consul in Honolulu, has about 100 head of cattle on his Hanalei cattle ranch. The beef is considered by many to be the finest available in the Hawaiian Islands, and is also of a more reasonable price than found elsewhere in the Islands. 1841, November—A new Wai‘oli Church meetinghouse is built in the Western style, timber-framed, using logs of native ‘ōhi‘a lehua. The building is plastered on the inside and outside using lime from coral for the masonry, and has a main interior space of 35 feet by 70 feet (21 m).[dcccxci] The Wai‘oli Belfry is built next to the new church in the tradition of English and Colonial American missionary churches. Like the church, the Belfry also uses structural beams made from ‘ōhi‘a lehua. The Belfry has a thatched exterior. 1842, September 8—Frenchman John Bernard and British subject Godfrey Rhodes obtain a 50-year Government lease of land in Hanalei Valley and begin the Hanalei Coffee Plantation, the first commercial coffee plantation in the Hawaiian Islands.[dcccxcii] The land is comprised of 90 acres (36 ha) on the east bank of the Hanalei River and 60 acres (24 ha) on the west side of the river. 1843—Reverend George B. Rowell arrives at the Wai‘oli mission station along with his wife Malvina, and replaces Reverend William Alexander. Alexander and his wife, Mary Ann, go to the Lahainaluna Seminary on Maui, and the Rowells move into the Mission House. Lahainaluna Seminary was established in 1831 as Hawai‘i’s first English school, and had the goal of advancing education for young Hawaiian men while training them to become teachers and ministers. Church membership at Wai‘oli is 180, up from 27 in 1837.[dcccxciii] More than 400 youth of the Halele‘a district, about one-sixth of the population, attend mission schools.[dcccxciv] 1843—A church bell for the Wai‘oli Church arrives from Boston and is placed in the Wai‘oli Belfry. 1844—Charles Titcomb abandons his attempt to build an industry of silk production in Hanalei after he encounters insect pests, high winds, labor problems, and a drought. Titcomb begins a coffee plantation, and children of the missionary-run Select School at Wai‘oli are hired to tend to the thousands of coffee plants.[dcccxcv] The students are also allowed to plant beans between the rows of coffee for their own use. 1845, April 18—Frenchman John Bernard leaves Honolulu for Kaua‘i on the schooner Paalua. Tragically, the Paaluasinks a few hundred yards offshore of Hanalei Bay on April 19, 1845 in a heavy squall, killing Bernard along with several others.[dcccxcvi] Several Hawaiians on the boat make it safely to shore. 1845, June 16—The Hanalei Valley estate of Frenchman John Bernard is bought by John K. Von Pfister and Godfrey Rhodes. The plantation covers about 100 acres, and becomes known as the Rhodes & Co. Coffee Plantation. (Rhodes had recently returned from Australia.) A coffee mill is built just above the current site of the Hanalei Bridge (not erected until 1912). Rhodes also builds a two-room stone house called Kikiula on the hill above the ridge. Kikiula later becomes known as the Princeville Plantation House and then the Princeville Ranch House, and is home to a succession of Princeville Plantation managers. 1845—Captain Jules Dudoit, the first French Consul to Hawai‘i, buys the lease to the Charlton Ranch lands in Hanalei. After retiring from the consulship, Dudoit moves to Hanalei with his family, and exports butter and beef, packing salt beef for whaling ships and shipping beef to Honolulu. 1846, July 15—American Protestant missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox board the schooner Emelia with their four children and sail to Hanalei Bay from O‘ahu, where Abner ran the Manual Labor Boarding School. For the next 23 years the Wilcoxes served at the Wai‘oli mission station. 1848, January 27—The Great Māhele is begun by King Kamehameha III, dividing up Hawai‘i’s land between the king and 245 chiefs, and replacing Hawai‘i’s traditional land use practices with a new system of private property ownership. The Māhele (“Division”) is completed on March 7, 1848 and the following day the king divides the remaining land between the king and the government. The end result is that about 24% of Hawai‘i’s land is owned by the king (Crown lands); 37% is owned by the government; and 38% is given to the ruling ali‘i (chiefs). The land given to the ali‘i (ruling chiefs) was primarily the portion of Hawai‘i’s lands that became today’s private lands that are sold and traded. 1848—In association with the Government, American Joseph Gardner grows cotton at Wai‘oli, and runs a cotton and woolen cloth mill with a loom and several spinning wheels.[dcccxcvii] Gardner is placed in charge of all Government sheep. 1850—The Kuleana Act is passed to define the land rights of maka‘āinana (commoners) on lands they have cultivated, referred to as kuleana. The Act authorizes a Land Commission to grant land titles, and about 11,000 maka‘āinana are granted 28,600 acres (11,574 ha). This is only about 1% of the available land, though much of it is located in prime agricultural areas. Requirements for maka‘āinana (commoners) seeking land grants included having the land surveyed, filing a claim with the Land Commission, and proving the land was being cultivated to earn a living The Board of Commissioners to Quiet Land Titles was usually simply called the Land Commission, and was appointed in December of 1845 by King Kamehameha II to determine land rights. In November of 1846, commoners were given the right to buy the land they cultivated in November of 1846, but the process for this to occur was not enacted into law until August of 1850. The Land Commission was dissolved in 1855. Requirements for maka‘āinana seeking land grants included having the land surveyed, filing a claim with the Land Commission, and proving the land was being cultivated to earn a living. The Legislature also passes a law that allows non-Hawaiians (resident aliens) to own land in Hawai‘i, and by 1890, more than 75 percent of lands originally granted to chiefs is owned by non-Hawaiians. The massive loss of Hawaiian-owned lands to non-Hawaiians was exacerbated by a law passed by the Legislature in 1874 removing mortgage transactions from the courts and placing them in private hands. This resulted in huge losses of lands by natives to non-Hawaiians in the 1880s. The law was said to have allowed lenders to foreclose without notice and then buy the land in a rigged auction. 1850s—More than 100,000 coffee trees are growing in Hanalei Valley on the coffee plantation of Charles Titcomb and the neighboring plantation belonging to Bernard and Rhodes. Titcomb’s coffee mill consists of a mule turning a perpendicular post fitted at the top with a horizontal cog wheel that turns a flay wheel connected by bands to the milling machinery. 1851—Archibald Archer and Gottfried Wundenberg plant tobacco at Limunui on the banks of the Hanalei River. Prospects for their crop and other attempts to grow tobacco appear favorable for about two years before a cutworm devastates the tobacco crop along with any hopes for a tobacco industry in Hanalei Valley. 1853, March 14—Scotsman Robert Crichton Wyllie, the Minister of Foreign Affairs for the Hawaiian Kingdom, pays $1,300 for Government (Crown) lands leased to the Rhodes & Co. Coffee Plantation in Hanalei Valley. The importation of Chinese laborers and the end of a period of drought help restore coffee production to profitable levels, but then a blight poses a new threat to the crop. 1853—The Akamai, an interisland steamer formerly known as the SB Wheeler, makes its first regular run between Kaua‘i and O‘ahu. The 106-foot (32-m) long, 114-ton (103-mton) side-wheeler stops at Hanalei and takes on a cargo that includes 14,000 pounds of coffee from the Rhodes & Co. Coffee Plantation. 1855, September 13—Robert Crichton Wyllie purchases Godfrey Rhodes’ business interest in his coffee plantation for $8,000. Gottfried Frederick Wundenberg moves from Honolulu to Hanalei to oversee the plantation. 1856—King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani) and his wife, Queen Emma visit Kaua‘i as part of a “Royal Progress” through the Hawaiian Islands. The royal couple visit the coffee plantation of Charles Titcomb in Hanalei. The name of Titcomb’s estate is later changed to “Emmasville” to honor Queen Emma. 1857—Cattle around the port of Hanalei number in the thousands, and generally run wild. The beef packing industry of earlier years no longer exists due to the lack of ability to bring the product to market. 1860—Wai‘oli Mission statistics estimate the district’s population at 1,641, down from 3,107 in 1835.[dcccxcviii] During the 1800s, measles and whooping cough epidemics as well as other foreign diseases take many lives in the Hanalei region and throughout the Hawaiian Islands. The native population of the Islands at this time is about 69,800 people, and continues to decline from an estimated 300,000 people living in Hawai‘i at the time of first Western contact (1778).[dcccxcix] Foreign diseases that decimated the native population included measles, smallpox, Asiatic cholera, whooping cough, scarlet fever, diphtheria, influenza, bubonic plague, dysentery, and others. 1860—King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani) and his wife Queen Emma visit Kaua‘i with their two-year-old son, Prince Albert Kauikeaouli. The royal family stays at the Hanalei estate of Robert Crichton Wyllie, the Minister of Foreign Affairs for the Hawaiian Kingdom. To honor Prince Albert, Wyllie changes the name of his estate to Princeville Plantation, and makes the young prince the estate’s intended heir. Tragically, Prince Albert passes away in 1862 at the age of four, and then the following year his father, King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani), passes away at the age of 29. 1861—Robert Crichton Wyllie processes sugarcane at a mule-powered mill at his Hanalei estate, and in 1862, he completes construction on the Hanalei Sugar Mill on the east bank of the Hanalei River just downriver from the Hanalei Bridge. The Hanalei Sugar Mill has a 110-foot (34-m) smokestack and includes $40,000 worth of machinery purchased from Glasgow, Scotland, making it the most modern and productive sugar mill in the Hawaiian Islands. 1862—Louise Johnson begins the first English school in the Halele‘a district. Known as the Hanalei English School, it becomes a public school in 1881. 1863—Robert Crichton Wyllie harvests his first crop of sugar. His Hanalei Sugar Mill eventually becomes the center of a small but busy factory village that includes a post office, storage buildings, camphouses, and a butcher shop. 1863—The Sandwich Islands Mission becomes independent, and is no longer supported by the American Mission Board. As part of the missionaries’ pensions, the Wai‘oli Mission House is deeded to Abner Wilcox. 1863, March 2—A fire burns down the Wai‘oli schoolhouse. In a Wai‘oli Select School report, Abner Wilcox describes the event: “Being covered with thatch, the flames spread with great rapidity, and very little could be saved. A few books and slates were snatched from the flames by those who first arrived on the ground.”[cm] Some of the large timbers were salvaged and used to start the foundation of a new schoolhouse, which was built by Abner Wilcox with the help of his son George. The Board of Education assisted them in acquiring materials for the structure. 1864, October 3—A Roman Catholic chapel is dedicated on the western bank of the Hanalei river near the rivermouth. A tall and slender, wooden Church Belfry was built on the church site around 1900 by Father Sylvester, who had long served the Hanalei area. 1865, October 19—Robert Crichton Wyllie, the owner of the Princeville Plantation, passes away. Wyllie’s principal heir is his nephew, Robert Crichton Cockrane, who arrives in Hawai‘i from Waltham, Illinois to learn the sugarcane business from manager John Low. 1869—Wai‘oli missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox make a return visit to their original home in Connecticut. They intend to return to Kaua‘i, but sadly they both contract malarial fever just a few days after arriving at their New England home, and they pass away within one week of each other. 1870s-1960—Rice becomes the dominant agricultural product grown in Hanalei. Rice is first cultivated by Chinese and then by Japanese and Filipino immigrants, as well as others. By 1882 Hanalei Valley is almost completely cultivated in rice. 1874, March 17—The newly elected King Kalākaua arrives in Hanalei on the steamer Kilauea and is greeted by a royal 21-gun salute. The “guns” are actually large logs of ‘ōhi‘a lehua that are bored out and packed with gunpowder. Hanalei was the first stop on the monarch’s royal tour of the Hawaiian Kingdom. 1879—Five Chinese farmers become the first Chinese to lease land from the Princeville Plantation, leasing 42 acres ofHanalei Valley land for $15/acre/year.[cmi] The Hanalei Valley land was part of the former plantation of Charles Titcomb, likely in the area crossed by Nukuhuli Stream near the current Hanalei Center (Wailele Building). 1880—An established Chinese rice factoring company, the Chulan company, leases 300 acres of Hanalei Valley land from the Princeville Plantation for $20/acre/year. 1880—Princeville Plantation employs about 200 laborers and has 900 breeding stock, 400 head working stock, and at least 150 steers. About 200 acres of rice grow in Hanalei Valley and about 100 acres of sugarcane are cultivated on the upper slopes. 1881, September 23—Princess Regent Lili‘uokalani, the future queen, arrives by ship at Hanalei Bay. The next day, Lili‘uokalani travels to Kīlauea to commemorate the Kīlauea Sugar Corporation’s purchase of a railroad engine and 24 railroad cars to carry sugarcane as well as three miles of track. Princess Lili‘uokalani strikes two hard blows to drive in the ceremonial first spike. At the time, Lili‘uokalani’s brother, King Kalākaua was on a world tour, and thus Lili‘uokalani was serving as Regent in his absence. 1884—The Chinese population of Hanalei is 459, increasing to 689 by 1896.[cmii] c.1890—The former residence of Mr. and Mrs. Edward and Lois H. Johnson at Wai‘oli, originally built near the Wai‘oli Mission House, is moved east and closer to the ocean to a site across from the current Hanalei Pavilion and adjacent to the Wilcox estate. 1892—The first Hanalei Pier is built of wood on the eastern side of Hanalei Bay near the mouth of the Hanalei River. 1892—Hanalei and Wai‘oli Valleys produce about 750 acres of rice, of the 7,321 acres of rice grown in the Hawaiian Islands. Mokulē‘ia in O‘ahu is the second largest rice producing area in the Islands, with 738 acres in cultivation, followed by Waikīkī, with 542 acres planted in rice.[cmiii] 1893—At least five rice mills operate in the Hanalei region, including one near the Hanalei River about midway between the Hanalei Bridge and Hanalei town. The earliest rice mills consisted of two large mill stones that raised a pestle-shaped stone and dropped it into a stone bowl. 1894—The Hanalei Sugar Mill is shut down by C. Brewer & Co. 1895—Albert Spencer Wilcox, the son of pioneering Wai‘oli missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox, secures complete ownership of the Princeville Plantation and converts much of the land into a cattle ranch. c.1895—A bridge is constructed over the Hanalei River, replacing a hand-pulled ferry. A steep wagon road leads down to the bridge, and carriages traveling on the incline often need assistance from people on horses who help to slow the carriage’s descent, or help to pull the carriage up the hill. The wagon road ends at Hanalei and beyond that point there is only a trail. (See 1912). 1895—Eric Knudsen writes in his journal: “Rice field and taro patches covered the flat bottom lands as far as the eye could see...many Chinamen were working in the fields.”[cmiv] 1896—Kauikeōlani (the Albert Spencer Wilcox Beach House), is built near the shoreline of Hanalei Bay and becomes the home of A.S. Wilcox and his wife Emma Kauikeōlani Napoleon Mahelona. 1909-1919—Joseph Hughes Moragne, Kaua‘i’s first county engineer, helps to create the “Belt Road” around Kaua‘i, including the road from Hanalei to Hā‘ena. 1910—Walter Foss Sanborn builds the first Western-style house “beach house” directly bordering the beach in Hanalei. 1912—The Hanalei Bridge is erected over the Hanalei River at the bottom of the hill descending into Hanalei Valley. The new Pratt-truss steel bridge replaces the previous iron-truss bridge, which had been erected around 1895 just upriver from the site of the new bridge. 1912—A new pier is constructed on Hanalei Bay, replacing the former Hanalei Pier. The new Hanalei Pier is built to meet the needs of Hanalei’s thriving rice industry, and it is constructed using the new technique of reinforced concrete. 1912—Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church is built by Sam, George, and Albert Wilcox in honor of their parents, Abner and Lucy Wilcox. The spired, green church is notable for its beautiful stained glass windows as well as its bell tower, which holds the bell brought from Boston in 1843 that was initially located in the Wai‘oli Belfry. Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church is originally a Congregational Church until 1957, when it becomes a United Church of Christ. 1914—Charles, Elsie, and Mabel Wilcox, and their parents Samuel and Emma Wilcox, along with Ethel Damon, buy five adjoining beachfront lots in Hanalei at an auction. Mabel and Charles plan a house known as Mahamoku (“Island of peace”), which is built by Sam Itchioka of Līhu‘e. 1914—The telephone directory lists eight general merchandising stores (seven Chinese-owned) as well as twelve Chinese rice planting companies in the Hanalei region.[cmv] 1915—Norwegian Hans Peter Fayé, the nephew of prominent sugar planter Valdemar “Kanuka” Knudsen, builds a home on land fronting Hanalei Bay. 1915—Renowned author Jack London (1876-1916) attends a lū‘au (feast) in Niumalu with Walter Foss Sanborn, and then the two men drive to Hanalei Bay where London boards a steamer that takes him to Honolulu. London leaves for California in July of 1915, but returns to the Hawaiian Islands in December and stays until July of 1916. 1919—The 110-foot smokestack of the Hanalei Sugar Mill is torn down, and the bricks are sold to the Kīlauea Sugar Company. 1921—Elsie Wilcox, Mabel Wilcox and Lucy Etta Wilcox Sloggett, granddaughters of Wai‘oli missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox, undertake a complete and extensive restoration of the Wai‘oli Mission House and Wai‘oli Mission Hall (the former Wai‘oli Church). 1926—The Territory of Hawai‘i constructs a new schoolhouse at Wai‘oli. 1928—At a cost of $150,000, a 3,558-foot tunnel is built through rock to divert water into the Hanalei Tunnel from the Ka‘āpoko tributary of the Hanalei River.[cmvi] 1929—Electricity becomes available in Hanalei from the Wainiha Power Plant, which was built in 1908 to provide power to McBryde Sugar Company in ‘Ele‘ele.[cmvii] 1930—The Haraguchi Rice Mill is built on the west bank of the Hanalei River, just upriver from the Hanalei Bridge, and on the site where another mill, the Man Sing (“Million Success”) Mill, had previously stood before it burned down in 1930. Man Sing sold his rice mill to the Haraguchis in 1924. 1930s—At least four rice mills operate in the Hanalei region, including the Hiramoto Mill (formerly Hee Fat Mill) at Waipā; the Ching Young Mill in Hanalei town; the Nakatsuji Mill (formerly Hop Chong Wai Mill, managed by Ah Hoy) just east of the Wai‘oli Bridge; and the Haraguchi Mill, on the site of the old Man Sing Mill just upriver from the Hanalei Bridge.[cmviii] 1934—A lū‘au (feast) is held to celebrate the Wai‘oli Mission Centennial. 1952—The Wai‘oli Mission House is incorporated as a museum. 1955—St. Williams Catholic Church is constructed in Hanalei town at the intersection of Route 560 and Mālolo Road after a land trade between the Catholic Church and Gaylord Parke Wilcox. The former Language School building is moved to a lot on the Hanalei Bay shoreline that was once the site of the Sloggett Beach House. The former Japanese Language School building became part of the Sasaki home complex.[cmix] 1966—A parsonage is built near Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church. 1968, July—Harry Trueblood of Eagle County Development Corporation, a Denver-based subsidiary of Consolidated Oil and Gas Company, purchases all but about 50 acres of the Princeville Ranch from a subsidiary of American Factors Ltd. (Amfac), including about 11,000 acres (4,452 ha) of Princeville land, 7,000 acres (2,833 ha) of agricultural land, and 4,000 acres (1,619 ha) of forest reserve conservation land.[cmx] 1968—Princeville owners receive approval from the Land Use Commission for urban districting on 995 acres. In the 1970s the development of a major resort area begins. 1972—Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge is established on 917 acres (371 ha) in Hanalei Valley. 1973—Three Wai‘oli Mission structures are placed on the National Register of Historic Places: the Wai‘oli Mission House (built from 1834-1837); the Wai‘oli Mission Hall (the former Wai‘oli Church, built in 1841); and the Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church (built in 1912). 1973—The Hanalei Canoe Club is established as an extension of the Hanalei Hawaiian Civic Club. The State Championship Regatta is held in Hanalei Bay, and Hanalei Canoe Club takes first place. The State contest now takes place in Hanalei Bay every four years. 1977—The Princeville Center opens, offering 27,000 square feet (2,508 sq.m.) of space for rent. 1978—Thirty-three boats sail 2,120 miles (3,412 km) from California’s Golden Gate Bridge to Hanalei Bay in the first annual Singlehanded TransPacific Yacht Race. Twenty-two boats finish the race. 1979—Archaeologists excavate the interior floor of the 1841 Wai‘oli Mission Hall (the former Wai‘oli Church). After the excavation, extensive repairs are undertaken to stabilize the building. 1982—Princeville Hotel Corporation is formed with the intent of constructing a major luxury hotel at Pu‘upōā on the shoreline of the east side of Hanalei Bay. The Sheraton Princeville Hotel opens in September of 1985 with 300 rooms available for visitors. The development of the Prince Golf Course begins in 1986. 1987—The Qintex Group of Queensland, Australia purchases the Sheraton Princeville Hotel. In 1989, construction begins on the 60,000 square-foot Prince Clubhouse adjacent to the Prince Golf Course. In 1991 the hotel is extensively refurbished, upgraded to a 5-star standard, and renamed Sheraton Mirage Princeville. 1992, September 11—Hurricane ‘Iniki makes a direct hit on Kaua‘i. More than 70% of Kaua‘i’s homes are damaged and 1,421 homes are completely destroyed, including 279 homes in Princeville. The hurricane causes more than $3 billion in property damage on Kaua‘i, and the Princeville Hotel requires $30 million in repairs. 1995—The Smithsonian Institution’s Dr. Paul Forsythe Johnston uses remote sensing equipment in Hanalei Bay to discover the buried location of the wreckage of Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i (Cleopatra’s Barge), the Hawaiian monarchy’s former ship-of-state, which sank in 1824. Archaeological excavation of the wreck occurs during the summers of 1995 and 1996. 1998, July 30—President Bill Clinton formally designates the Hanalei River as an American Heritage River, making it one of just 14 rivers nationwide to receive the Heritage designation, and the only tropical waterway to receive the designation. On May 6, 2003 the Hanalei Heritage River Program receives a $700,000 grant from the Environmental Protection Agency toward the protection of the Hanalei ahupua‘a watershed.[cmxi] 2005—The 9,000-acre (3,642 ha) Princeville Resort is sold for $200 million to Honolulu-based real estate developer Jeffrey R. Stone, a Honolulu investment consortium known as Hawai‘i Land Development Corporation, and Morgan Stanley Real Estate Funds. Hawai‘i Land Development Corporation is now Princeville Associates LLC, a venture company owned by Stone. Hanalei Land Development was recently a minority investor in the purchase of Honsador Lumber. Jeffrey Stone was previously involved in the purchase of O‘ahu’s Ka Olina Resort in 1998. Morgan Stanley Real Estate Funds is a subsidiary of Morgan Stanley investment and credit service. The sale includes the Princeville Hotel along with the resort’s two golf courses, the Princeville Tennis Club and Pro Shop, Princeville Health Club and Spa, the Princeville Shopping Center, and other north shore lands.
Appendix I--Polynesian-Introduced Species The following plants and animals were brought to the Hawaiian Islands by the early Polynesian settlers on their voyaging canoes, and were an integral part of traditional Hawaiian culture Polynesian-Introduced Animals ‘Īlio (Canis familiaris, dogs) Moa (Gallus gallus, chickens) Pua‘a (Sus scrofa, pigs) Polynesian-Introduced Plants ‘Ape (Elephant’s-ear, Alocasia macrorrhizos) ‘Auhuhu (Tephrosia purpurea) ‘Awa (Kava, Piper methysticum) ‘Awapuhi Kuahiwi (Shampoo Ginger, Zingiber zerumbet) Ipu (Bottle Gourd, Lagenaria siceraria) Kalo (Taro, Colocasia esculenta) Kamani (Alexandrian Laurel, Calophyllum inophyllum) Kī (Ti, Cordyline fruticosa) Kō (Sugarcane, Saccharum officinarum) Kukui (Candlenut, Aleurites moluccana) Laukahi (Native Plantain, Plantago species) Mai‘a (Banana Plant, Musa species) Milo (Portia Tree, Thespesia populnea) Niu (Coconut Palms, Cocosnucifera) Noni (Indian Mulberry, Morinda citrifolia) ‘Ohe (Bamboo, Schizostachyum glaucifolium) ‘Ōhi‘a ‘Ai (Mountain Apple, Eugenia malaccense) ‘Ōlena (Turmeric, Curcuma longa) Pia (Polynesian Arrowroot, Tacca leontopetaloides) ‘Uala (Sweet Potato, Ipomoea batatas) Uhi (Yam, Dioscorea alata) Pi‘a (Yam, Dioscorea pentaphylla) Hoi (Yam, Dioscorea bulbifera) ‘Ulu (Breadfruit, Artocarpus altilis) Wauke (Paper Mulberry, Broussonetia papyrifera)
Complete List of Sources for Hanalei History Note: All Hawaiian words in this text include proper diacritical marks, including the ‘okina (hamzah, or glottal stop) and kahakō (macron), except when the word is cited directly as part of a title or in a direct quote, in which case the words are spelled as originally published. See Appendix 1: Note On Sources for more information about diacritical marks; objectivity; Hawaiian word spellings and meanings; scientific, cultural, and historic information; new research and discoveries; verifying dates and details of historic events; and Hawaiian sovereignty and other native issues. [Note: This list is still in progress and being updated.] Abbott, Isabella Aiona. Lā‘au Hawai‘i: Traditional Hawaiian Uses of Plants. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1992. A Brief History of the Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church. Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church Bulletin, 2003. A Brief History of Tour Boats on the North Shore of Kaua‘i. Environment Hawai‘i: volume 8, Number 6, December, 1997. Internet site: http://planet-hawaii.com/environment/1297history.htm, 3/26/2003. Acapulco Gold (1972). MSN Entertainment. Internet site: http://entertainment.msn.com/Movies/Movie.aspx?m=504466, 3/28/2003. Adams, Wanda. Hanging out in and around Hanalei. The Honolulu Advertiser, 4/06/2003. Adams, Wanda. Road to Hanalei an experience in itself. The Honolulu Advertiser, 4/06/2003. Alexander, James M. Mission Life in Hawaii. Memoir of Rev. William P. Alexander. Pacific Press Publishing Co., 1888. Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843). Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934. Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934. Alexander, William DeWitt. Private Journal of a Tour of Kauai (Written by William DeWitt Alexander, when a boy of sixteen, in 1849). Read to the Kauai Historical Society, May 8, 1933. Antony and Cleopatra: Scene II. Rome. The house of Lepidus. Internet site: http://the-tech.mit.edu/Shakespeare/cleopatra/cleopatra.2.2.html, 12/08/2002. Athens, Stephen J. Prehistoric Pondfield Agriculture in Hawai‘i: Archaeological Investigations at the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, Kaua‘i. Prepared for the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. Ms. 060283, Department of Anthropology, Bishop Museum, Honolulu, 1983; Carol Silva provided historical research utilizing the Public Archives of Hawai‘i, Honolulu; the Library of the Bishop Museum, Honolulu; and the Library and Files of the State Historic Preservation Division (SHPD). Other information came from the Department of Land and Natural Resources (DLNR), Honolulu; Dr. William Kikuchi, Kaua‘i Community College; the State Historic Preservation Division. At Home in the Islands: Graham Nash builds Our House on Hanalei Bay. Internet site: http://www.islander-magazine.com/nash.html, 12/27/2002. Au, Laurie. 200 small whales linger in Kauai’s Hanalei Bay. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 7/04/2004. Autopsy finds Melon-head whale died of starvation. The Garden Island, 7/29/2004. Beachhead (1954). MSN Entertainment. Internet site: http://entertainment.msn.com/Movies/Movie.aspx?m=45046, 3/28/2003. Billig, Pérez Billig. Waipā: A living ahupua‘a. Spirit of Aloha. November/December, 2002. Bingham, Hiram. A Residence of Twenty-One Years in the Sandwich Islands. Hartford: Hezekiah Huntington; New York: Sherman Converse, 1848. Bird, Isabella L. Six Months in the Sandwich Islands. 1875, Reprint. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press for Friends of the Library of Hawaii, 1964. Bird of Paradise (1951). MSN Entertainment. Internet site: http://entertainment.msn.com/Movies/Movie.aspx?m=492076, 3/29/2003. Blaich, Beryl. Notes on file at Kaua‘i Historical Society regarding Sanborn beach house, based on information from Janet Sanborn, Alan Sanborn, 1/05/87. Borg, Jim. Genetic research offers intriguing new view of Polynesian migrations. Hawaii Magazine, February, 1997. Bovard Studios, Inc. Stained Glass Windows: Great Restoration Stories. Internet site: http://www.bovardstudio.com/customers/architects_restoration_engagements_great_stories.aspx, 4/11/2003. Bovard Studios, Inc. Stained Glass Windows: Windows for the Soul. Internet site: http://www.bovardstudio.com/gallery/windows_for_the_soul_pages.aspx?pg=066-Waioli-Huiia-Church.html, 4/11/2003. Calhoun, R. Scott, and Fletcher, Charles H. Measured and predicted sediment yield from a subtropical, heavy rainfall, steep-sided river basin: Hanalei, Kauai, Hawaiian Islands. Geomorphology 30 (1999) 213-226. Ching Young Village History Page. Internet site: http://www.chingyoungvillage.com/history.htm, 1/10/2003. Choo, David K. Agriculture Poi Story. Internet site: http://www.hawaiibusiness.cc/hb82001/default.cfm?articleid=10, printed 1/27/2003. Clark, John R. K. Beaches of Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1990. Conrow, Joan. Haraguchi Rice Mill site of yagura-raising effort. The Garden Island, 4/13/2004. Conrow, Joan. Kauai man sounds 164-year-old royal conch: The shell was recovered from King Kamehameha II’s sunken royal yacht in Hanalei. Honolulu Star-Bulletin. Internet site: http://starbulletin.com/98/07/31/news/story5.html, 12/06/2002. Conrow, Joan. Picture Perfect?: The changing face of Hanalei. Kaua‘i Business Report, May, 2003. Conrow, Joan. Taro-Birds-Trouble. Internet site: http://starbulletin.com/96/04/01/news/story1.html, 1/27/2003. Cook, Chris. Hanalei road listed on National Register of Historic Places. The Garden Island. Cook, Chris. Kaua‘i surfers conquer King’s Reef at Hanalei. The Garden Island, 11/29/1996. Cook, Chris. Louise Marston of Tahiti Nui: 1928-2003. The Garden Island, 10/12/2003. Cook, Chris. New book tells story of Waimea’s Russian Fort from Hawaiian perspective. The Garden Island, 5/26/2002. Cook, Chris. No Hanalei link for folk song ‘Puff the Magic Dragon.’ The Garden Island, 7/25/2004. Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu: Hawai‘i, 2002. Cook, Chris. Robeson, Wilcox honored for preserving Hanalei Bridge: Statewide Historic Hawai‘i Foundation conference opens. The Garden Island, 5/15/2003. Cooper, George, and Daws, Gavan. Land and Power in Hawaii: The Democratic Years. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1985. Culliney, John L. Islands in a Far Sea: Nature and Man in Hawaii. San Francisco: Sierra Club Books, 1988. Curtis, Paul. Nishii returns to Princeville Corporation: Yasuno announces retirement. The Garden Island, 4/20/2003. Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden. Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931. Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. Davies, Theo. An Account of the First Visit to the Island of Kauai in September 1860. Transcription from the original journal written in longhand on board S. S. “Ariel”, on the Atlantic, 22nd August, 1862. Day, A. Grove. History Makers of Hawaii: A Biographical Dictionary. Honolulu: Mutual Publishing, 1984. Dickey, Lyle A. Hanalei Place Names. Read at the meeting of the Kauai Historical Society, Oct. 22, 1934. On file at Kaua‘i Historical Society. DNA tests trace Polynesians to China origins. The Honolulu Advertiser, 8/11/1998. Donohugh, Donald. The Story of Kōloa: A Kaua‘i Plantation Town. Honolulu, Hawai‘i: Mutual Publishing, 2001. Dorrance, William H., and Morgan, Francis S. Sugar Islands: The 165-Year Story of Sugar in Hawai‘i. Honolulu: Mutual Publishing, 2000. EPA grant to help evaluate Hanalei waters. The Honolulu Advertiser, 6/02/2003. Evenhuis, Neal L., and Eldredge, Lucius G., Editors. Records of the Hawaii Biological Survey for 2000. Bishop Museum Occasional Papers, Number 68, 69. Honolulu: Bishop Museum, 3/25/2002; Wagner, Warren L., and Herbst, Derral R. Electronic Supplement to the Manual of the Flowering Plants of Hawai‘i. Internet site: http://rathbun.si.edu/botany/pacificislandbiodiversity/hawaiianflora/supplement.htm, 3/05/2002. Federal Register, 2002, Vol. 67, U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, Threatened and Endangered Species System (TESS), Listings by State and Territory as of 7/20/2002. Internet site: http://ecos.fws.gov/servlet/TESSWebpageUsaLists?state=HI, 7/28/2002. Flinn, John. Destination Hawaii. San Francisco Examiner. Internet site: http://www.hawaiimovietour.com/movietour/examiner.htm, 3/28/2003. Fogel, Robert William. The Phases of the Four Great Awakenings. Internet site: http://www.press.uchicago.edu/Misc/Chicago/256626.html, 5/03/2003. Fox, Bob. The Wilcox Beach House at Hanalei Beach. On file at Kaua‘i Historical Society. Frommer’s: A World of Travel Experience. Internet site: http://www.frommers.com/destinations/kauai/0011021993.html, 12/06/2002. Frostad, Shon. Where are the ‘O‘opu? It’s About the River. A publication of the Hanalei Heritage River. January, 2001 Volume 1, Issue 5. Fujimoto, Dennis. Haraguchi Rice Mill receives Young Bros. grant. The Garden Island, 8/14/2003. Fujimoto, Dennis. Melon-head whales depart Hanalei Bay thanks to reverse hukilau. The Garden Island, 7/05/2004. Gima, Craig. Whale’s body found near Hanalei Bay: The melon-headed calf is packed in ice prior to a necropsy. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 7/06/2004. Gomes, Andrew. Stone bids for Hanalei resort: Ko Olina developer expected to take on Kaua‘i’s Princeville. The Honolulu Advertiser, 7/15/2004. Gradie, Jonathan C., Lunn, Richard L., Calhoun, R. Scott, and Fletcher, Charles H. III. Airborne Multispectral Imagery for Quantifying Suspended Sediment Plumes: Hanalei Bay, Kauai. Internet site: http://ltpwww.gsfc.nasa.gov/ISSSR-95/airborne.htm, 12/08/2002. Hanalei Cottage. Internet site: http://hanalei-house.com/hancott.html, 3/29/2003. Hanalei Fire station—Statement of Historical and/or Architectural Significance. National Register of Historic Places: United States Department of the Interior; National Park Service. Hanalei Hawaii Resource Guide. Internet site: http://www.pe.net/~rksnow/hiscountyhanalei.htm, 12/27/2002. Hanalei Heritage River: Hui Watershed Action Plan—Our Mission Statement. Internet site:http://www.hanaleiriver.org/hhrinfo/wateractionl.html, 12/06/2002. Hanalei House. Internet site: http://hanalei-house.com/hanhouse.html, 3.29/2003. Hanalei House and Cottage: Your Special Hideaway. Internet site: http://hanalei-house.com/, 3.29/2003. Hanalei Poi Company. Internet site: http://www.hanaleipoi.com/pages/about.html, 1/27/2003. Hanalei Poi Company—Our Poi Mill. Internet site: http://www.hanaleipoi.com/pages/mill.html, 1/27/2003. Hanalei river program awarded $700,000. The Garden Island, 5/07/2003. Hanalei’s Beautiful New Church Edifice. The Garden Island, 10/29/1912. Hanalei School: Hanalei School History and General Information. Internet site: http://www.aloha.net/~winny/history.html, 12/06/2002. Hanalei School History. Internet site: http://www.hanalei.k12.hi.us/hist.html, 12/06/2002. Hanalei Surf Online: The one lane bridges of Hanalei, Kauai. Internet site:http://www.hanaleiurf.com/hanalei_bridges.htm, 12/06/2002. Haraguchi Rice Mill hosts free workshop on traditional timber framing April 5-9. Kaua‘i Business Report, April, 2004. Hawaiian Culture, Hawaiian History, and Interesting Facts About Kauai and Hanalei. Internet site:http://www.hanaleibayresort.com/hanaleibay/facts.html, 12/08/2002. Hawaiian Native Plant Genera. University of Hawai‘i Botany Department. Internet site:http://www.botany.hawaii.edu/faculty/carr/natives.htm, 5/03/2002. Hawaii’s Birds. Honolulu: Hawaiian Audubon Society, 1993. Hayworth, Phil. Stone plans changes at Princeville. The Garden Island, 11/16/2004. Hayworth, Phil. The future of Princeville: New owners say community, market to lead development. The Garden Island, 7/18/2004. Hazlett, Richard W. and Hyndman, Donald W. Roadside Geology of Hawai‘i. Missoula, Montana: Mountain Press Publishing Company, 1996. Helen Kapililani Sanborn Davis: Reminiscences of a Life in the Islands, as told to Maili Yardley. Honolulu, Hawaii, Native Books, 2000. Historic Register Application Statement of Historical and/or Architectural Significance. (undated). Historic Waioli Hui‘ia United Church of Christ. Informational Brochure. Undated. History of the Historic Bed and Breakfast. Internet site: http://www.historicbnb.com/history.html, 3/28/2003. Holocene History of Sediment Deposition and Stratigraphy on the Hanalei Coastal Plain, Kauai, Hawaii (Abstract). Internet site: http://www.soest.hawaii.edu/GG/STUDENTS/calhoun/abstract.html, 3/26/2003. 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From memories of S. W. Wilcox, A. S. Wilcox and Mrs. S. B. Deverill, mainly. 5/22/1914. Record of Guests. Kr. Oni O. Mahamoku. Manuscript on file at Kaua‘i Historical Society. Maritime Archaeology in Hawai‘i: Cleopatra’s Barge—The Pride of Hawai‘i. Internet site: http:www.captainrick.com/archaeology.htm, 12/06/2002. Matisoo-Smith, E., Roberts, R.M., Irwin, G.J., Allen, J.S., Penny, D. and Lambert, D.M. Patterns of prehistoric human mobility in Polynesia indicated by mtDNA from the Pacific rat. Anthropology, Vol. 95, pp. 15145-15150, December, 1998. Matsunaga, Mark. Scientists still fish for migration answer: Canoes ready to test theory of the fishhooks. The Honolulu Advertiser, 4/16/1995. “Mechanics needed to restore Rice Mill engine” Kaua‘i Business Review, Kaua‘i Publishing Company, March, 2003. Miss Sadie Thompson (1953). MSN Entertainment. Internet site: http://entertainment.msn.com/Movies/Movie.aspx?m=41578, 3/28/2003. Moffat, Riley M., and Fitzpatrick, Gary L. 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Pratt, Douglas, Bruner, Phillip L., and Berrett, Delwyn G. A Field Guide to the Birds of Hawai‘i and the Tropical Pacific. Princeton University Press, 1987. Princeville and North Shore. Internet site: http://www.islandincentives.com/pub/places/kauai-north.html., 12/08/2002. Princeville Corporation finalizes sale of land. The Garden Island, 9/14/2003. Princeville Ranch. p. 2, Na Leo ‘O Princeville. Princeville Corporation & Princeville Utilities Company, Inc., Summer, 2003. Princeville Resort: A Place to Stay. Internet site: http://www.princevillecom/sta/index.html, 3/17/2003. Princeville Resort: Destination Princeville. Internet site: http://www.princevillecom/dest/dest_pv.html., 3/17/2003. Press Release for Preservation News. The Hanalei Project: 1000 Friends of Kauai, 6/06/1989. Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1986. Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. Recreation.gov: Hanalei NWR. Internet site: http://www.recreation.gov/detail.cfm?ID=(1417), 12/28/2002. Renovated Hanalei Bridge officially blessed. The Garden Island, 11/09/2003. Report of the Committee on the Support of Mr. Wilcox and the Waioli Select School, 1861. On file at Grove Farm. Report of the Superintendent of Public Instruction to the Governor of the Territory of Hawaii from December 31, 1902 to December 31, 1904. Report of Waioli Select School From July 16th, to May 12th, 1863. On file at Grove Farm. Report of Waioli Select School, 1859 & 60. On file at Grove Farm. Report of Waioli Select School. Written most likely in 1848, possibly 1849. On file at Grove Farm. Restoration: Hana Hou! Ho‘opulapula Haraguchi Rice Mill News, Winter 2001. Riznik, Barnes. Overview of Historic House Museums and Parks in Hawai‘i: Changing Ideas of Preservation and Interpretation. Internet site: http://crm.cr.nps.gov/archive/19-8/19-8-13.pdf.. Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987. Riznik, Barnes, and Schleck, Robert J. Waioli Mission House, Grove Farm Homestead. Proposal, Waioli Church Belfry. 8/13/1985. Robinson, Robby. History of the Singlehanded TransPacific Yacht Race. Internet site: http://www.sfbaysss.org/transpac96/tphist.html, 3/26/2003. Sanborn Beach House: National Register of Historic Places. United States Department of the Interior, National Park Service. (undated) Schleck, Robert J. The Wilcox Quilts in Hawaii. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1986. Senator Daniel K. Akaka—Press Release: Akaka welcomes White House designation of Hanalei River as an American Heritage River, July 30, 1998. Internet site: http://www.senate.gov/~akaka/releases/98/980730-a.html, 12/20/2002. Seven (1979). Internet site: MSN Entertainment. Internet site: http://entertainment.msn.com/Movies/Movie.aspx?m=45762, 3/28/2003. Shapiro, Lisa, M.A., and Shapiro, William A., M.A. Archaeological Investigations of Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, Hanalei, Island of Kaua‘i, May, 1995. She-Gods of Shark Reef (1958). MSN Entertainment. Internet site: http://entertainment.msn.com/Movies/Movie.aspx?m=110899, 3/28/2003. Soboleski, Hank. History makers of Kaua‘i: Abner and Lucy Wilcox. The Garden Island, 10/07/2001. Soboleski, Hank. History makers of Kaua‘i: Georg Anton Schaffer. The Garden Island, 4/22/2001. Sobeleski, Hank. History makers of Kauai: H.P. Fayé. The Garden Island, Internet site: http://kauai-harborhouse.com/hbfaye.html, 3/29/2003. Soboleski, Hank. History makers of Kaua‘i: Mabel Wilcox. The Garden Island, 6/24/2001. Soboleski, Hank. History makers of Kaua‘i: Queen Emma. The Garden Island, 3/17/2002. Soboleski, Hank. Jack London & Kaua‘i: The famous author’s stay with Reverend Lydgate in 1915. The Kaua‘i: Volume 2, October, 2003. Sommer, Anthony. Hanalei Bay yields royal treasures: Divers find a section of King Kamehameha II’s sunken yacht—and not a moment too soon. Internet site: http://starbulletin.com/2000/07/26/news/story3.html, 12/06/2002. South Pacific (1958). MSN Entertainment. Internet site: http://entertainment.msn.com/Movies/Movie.aspx?m=465308, 3/28/2003. State must pay Hanalei legal fees of $100,000: Three tour operators celebrate a federal court ruling that keeps their businesses afloat. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 8/28/2003. State of the River 2001: Hanalei American Heritage River. Internet site: http://www.epa.gov/rivers/sor/sorhanalei.pdf., 2001. Structurae: Hanalei River Bridge (1912). Internet site: http://www.structurae.de/en/structures/data/str00935.php, 12/20/2002. Survey of Organic Chemical Contaminants in Water, Sediment and Biota of the Hanalei River, Island of Kauai, Hawaii, December, 2001. Final Report CERC-8335-FYO3-31-01, Columbia Environmental Research Center—USGS, November 12, 2002. Carl Orazio, Principal Investigator. TenBruggencate, Jan. Groups urge Navy to reduce sonar harm to whales. The Honolulu Advertiser, 7/15/2004. TenBruggencate, Jan. Hanalei braces for boats. The Honolulu Advertiser, 5/15/2002. TenBruggencate, Jan. State planning to restore Hanalei Bridge. The Honolulu Advertiser, 10/23/1999. TenBruggencate, Jan. Whale dies after pod returns to sea. Carcass of 3-foot infant washes ashore at Hanalei. The Honolulu Advertiser, 7/07/2004. The Legacy of a Young Hawaiian Prince. Na Leo ‘O Princeville: A publication of Princeville Corporation & Princeville Utilities Company, Inc., Spring, 2003. The Reader’s Companion to American History: Second Great Awakening. Internet site: http://college.hmco.com/history/readerscomp/rcah/html/ah_077700_secondgreata.htm, 5/03/2003. The Wackiest Ship in the Army (1961). MSN Entertainment. Internet site: http://entertainment.msn.com/Movies/Movie.aspx?m=54495, 3/28/2003. The Wade Residence—Hanalei, Kauai. On File at the Kaua‘i Historical Society. Tsutsumi, Cheryl Chee. Where movies spun their magic. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, Internet site: http://www.hawaiimovietour.com/starbulletin.htm, 3/28/2003. Uncommon Valor (1983). MSN Entertainment. Internet site: http://entertainment.msn.com/Movies/Movie.aspx?m=84985, 3/29/2003. Uncommon Valor. Internet site: http://apolloguide.com/mov_revtemp.asp?CId=3264, 3/29,2003. U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, Pacific Islands—National Wildlife Refuges: Kaua‘i National Wildlife Refuge Complex—Hanalei NWR. Internet site: http://pacificislands.fws.gov/wnwr/khanaleinwr.html, 12/28/2002. Vorsino, Mary. Whales herded farther offshore by volunteers: Kayaks and canoes were used to move the animals out to sea. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 7/05/2004. Wagner, Warren L., and Herbst, Derral R. Electronic Supplement to the Manual of the Flowering Plants of Hawai‘i. Internet site: http://rathbun.si.edu/botany/pacificislandbiodiversity/hawaiianflora/supplement.htm, 3/05/2002. Wagner, Warren L., Herbst, Derral R., and Sohmer, S.H. Manual of the Flowering Plants of Hawai‘i: Revised Edition, Volumes 1 and 2. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press; Bishop Museum Press, 1999. Waimea’s Russian Fort is worth a stop. Kaua‘i Beach Press, 2/19/2001. Waioli Church—National Register of Historic Places: Statement of Architectural and Historical Significance. United States Department of the Interior; National Park Service. Waioli Mission District—National Register of Historic Places: Inventory—Nomination Form. United States Department of the Interior; National Park Service. 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Paper read before the Kauai Historical Society, April 26th, 1917. Wilcox, Elsie Hart, compiler—A Record of the descendants of Abner Wilcox and Lucy Eliza Hart Wilcox of Hawaii, 1836-1950. Honolulu, Hawaii, 1950. William Haraguchi a Living Treasure for life-long commitment to agriculture. The Garden Island, 6/26/2002. Wilson, Christie. Hanalei project to enhance refuge view. The Honolulu Advertiser, 7/08/2003. Wright, Anna S. Wundenberg. Personal letter, 1921, on file at Kaua‘i Historical Society. Yacht excavation: Research Report No. 85, Summer 1996: Excavation of historic oceangoing yacht to begin this summer off Kauai. Internet site: http://www.si.edu/opa/researchreports/9685/9685ship.htm, 12/06/2002. 101 Things to Do Magazines: 101 Things to Do in Hawaii—35: Kick Back in Hanalei. Internet site: http:www.101things.com/Magazines?Hawaii/kauai/Activities/All/35, 12/08/2002. 2000 Family Business of the Year Awards: Less than 25 employees. WT Haraguchi Farm, Inc. Internet site: http://www.cba.hawaii.edu/quarterly/CBAQ25-1-01.pdf, 2000.
Ni‘ihau The Forbidden Isle Overview of Ni‘ihau Land Area: 69.5 square miles (180 sq. km). Size Comparison: 7th largest Hawaiian Island. Island Emblem: Pūpū Ni‘ihau —Ni‘ihau Shell Kahelelani (Leptothyra verruca); Momi (Euplica varians); Laiki (Mitrella margarita). Highest Elevation: 1,281 feet (390 m), at summit of Pānī‘au. Official Nickname: The Forbidden Isle. Also called: Island of Yesteryear (Yesterday). [Illustration: Map—Ni‘ihau] A single volcano formed Ni‘ihau about 4.9 million years ago. Today the island of Ni‘ihau is about 6 miles (9.7 km) wide and 18 miles (29 km) long, making it the smallest inhabited Hawaiian Island. Ni‘ihau is just over 17 miles (27 km) from the west side of Kaua‘i, across the ocean channel called Kaulakahi, which means “The single flame (streak of color.”[cmxii] Ni‘ihau is relatively dry because it is in Kaua‘i’s rain shadow. The main town on Ni‘ihau is Pu‘uwai (“Heart”[cmxiii]). Ni‘ihau’s 860-acre (348-ha) Hālali‘i Lake is the largest lake in all of the Hawaiian Islands. In pre-contact times, Ni‘ihau was known for the mats made there from the native makaloa (Cyperus laevigatus). These mats were considered the finest sleeping mats in all of ancient Polynesia. Ni‘ihau was also famous in ancient days for the fine quality of the uhi (Dioscorea alata, yams) that grew there. These yams were grated and used for medicinal preparations, and also were considered “slippery and tenacious,” as noted in the ancient proverb, “Ni‘ihau i ka uhi pahe‘e,” (“Ni‘ihau of the slippery yam.”)[cmxiv] The island of Ni‘ihau has been owned by the Robinson family since 1864, and is not open to tourism. The Robinsons are descendants of Eliza McHutcheson Sinclair, who purchased the island of Ni‘ihau from King Kamehameha V (Lot Kapuāiwa Kamehameha) in 1864. The price paid to King Kamehameha V for the island of Ni‘ihau was $10,000 worth of gold. Largely isolated from the rest of the Hawaiian Islands, Ni‘ihau is considered by some to be the last bastion of pure Hawaiians speaking the Hawaiian language. Ni‘ihau has no airport, nor does it have an Island-wide electricity or phone system. Ni‘ihau Shell Lei Ni‘ihau is also known for the beautiful, tiny seashells that are found on the island’s shores. The shells are found on other islands as well, but nowhere with the luster possessed by the prized Ni‘ihau shells, which are known as pūpū Ni‘ihau (pūpū means “shell”). Ni‘ihau shells are traditionally strung into spiral strands with intricate patterns. The finest of these beautiful shell lei may sell for more than $10,000 dollars. [Photograph: Ni‘ihau shell lei] The three primary types of shells used for the traditional Ni‘ihau shell lei are kahelelani(Leptothyra verruca); momi(Euplica varians); and laiki(Mitrella margarita), and the colors of the shells range from deep brown to pearly white. Pūpū Ni‘ihau (Ni‘ihau shells) show many variations that are caused by waves and sunlight as well as genetic differences. At least 30 different Hawaiian names describe particular colors and patterns. (See Ni‘ihau Shell Lei section andIsland Emblems section, Chapter 3.) [Photograph: Ni‘ihau scene]
Moloka‘i The Friendly Isle Overview of Moloka‘i Land Area: 260 square miles (673.4 sq. km). Size Comparison: 5th largest Hawaiian Island. Island Emblem: Pua Kukui—Flower of Kukui (Aleurites moluccana, candlenut). Highest Elevation: 4,970 feet (1,515 m), at the summit of Kamakou. Official Nickname: The Friendly Isle. [Moloka‘i Visitors Bureau, 808-553-3876; 800-800-6367, Ala Malama & KamehamehaV Highway (Hwy. 450), Kaunakakai.] [Moloka‘i Visitor Association: www.molokai-hawaii.com.] [Illustration: Map—Moloka‘i] Moloka‘i is about 38 miles (61 km) long by 10 miles (16 km) wide, and somewhat rectangular in shape. Moloka‘ihas no fast food chains, high-rise buildings, shopping centers, movie theaters, or traffic signals. Moloka‘i is located about 9 miles (14.5 km) northwest of Maui, 9 miles (14.5 km) north of Lāna‘i, and 22 miles (35 km) southeast from Honolulu across the Kaiwi Channel. The island of Moloka‘i has the highest percentage of native Hawaiians of any of the Hawaiian Islands except Ni‘ihau. Much of Moloka‘i’s relatively small population (less than 8,000 total) still clings largely to a subsistence lifestyle of farming, fishing, hunting, and gathering. Moloka‘i was formed by Kauhakō and Kamakou Volcanoes, which originally created two separate islands. These two islands were joined when later lava flows formed the Ho‘olehua Plains. After the main part of Moloka‘i had been formed, Kauhakō Crater offshore erupted, creating the northern peninsula of Kalaupapa on the island’s northern side, and thus Kauhakō Crater became part of the island of Moloka‘i. The crater rises to 400 feet (122 m) above sea level, and is the highest point on the Kalaupapa peninsula. Moloka‘i has vast amphitheater valleys and spectacular coral reefs. The sea cliffs along Moloka‘i’s northern shore have an average steepness of more than 55 degrees and rise to more than 3,300 feet (1,006 m), making them among the highest sea cliffs in the world. Kahiwa Falls cascades 1,750 feet (533 m) down the cliffs over a horizontal distance of 1,000 feet (305 m), and is one of the highest waterfalls in the Hawaiian Islands. Kahiwa means, “The chosen one.”[cmxv] The western half of Moloka‘i is generally the drier side, and is dominated by the shield-shaped dome of Mauna Loa. The volcano has two peaks, including Pu‘unānā, which is west Moloka‘i’s highest point at 1,381 feet (421 m). The dunes of Mo‘omomi are located on Moloka‘i’s northwest coast, an area that is home to many culturally important sites and also a unique Hawaiian habitat supporting many endangered plant species. In ancient times, Mauna Loa was the site of adze quarries, where pōhaku pa‘a (basaltic rocks) were chipped into ko‘i (stone adzes) that had important uses in ancient Hawai‘i (see Chapter 1). Mauna Loa was also the site of he‘e hōlua (hōlua sledding), which involved using specially constructed papa hōlua (wooden sleds) to slide down a hillside or a ramp slide constructed of stone. An area called Kaka‘ako on the eastern side of Mauna Loa was known in ancient times for particular trees used in kālai-pāhoa sorcery. These trees included nīoi (Eugenia species) and a‘e (Sapindus saponaria, soapberry). Moloka‘i’s main town, and perhaps its only true “town,” is Kaunakakai on the island’s southern coast. An ancient saying, “Moloka‘i ko‘o lā‘au,” (“Moloka‘i of the canoe-poler,”) is a reference to the island’s shallow southern waters, where “...the people could propel their canoes with poles.”[cmxvi]
Moloka‘i Cultural / Historical Sites and Attractions Kaunakakai Malama Kapuāiwa Royal Coconut Grove Church Row One-ali‘i Beach Park Southeast Moloka‘i—Kaunakakai to Hālawa Kaloko‘eli Fishpond Nēnē o Moloka‘i Bird Propagation Facility Kawela Kakahai‘a Beach Park Kakahai‘a National Wildlife Refuge Kawela Pu‘uhonua Kamalō / St. Joseph’s Church Smith and Bronte Landing ‘Ualapu‘e Fishpond / Ah Ping Store Kalua‘aha Church / Our Lady of Sorrows Church Kalua‘aha ‘Ili‘ili‘ōpae Heiau / Pūko‘o Honouli Malo‘o Sacred Kukui Grove of Lanikaula Wailua Waialua Congregational Church Moanui Sugar Mill Waialua Beach (Twenty-Mile Beach) Rock Point Pu‘u-o-Hoku Ranch Mokuho‘oniki Hālawa Valley / Hālawa Bay Moa‘ula Falls Hīpuapua Falls Kamakou Preserve Central and Northern Moloka‘i Moloka‘i Coffee Plantation Moloka‘i Museum & Cultural Center / R. W. Meyer Sugar Mill Museum Pālā‘au State Park / Kalaupapa Overlook Ka-ule-o-Nānāhoa Kalaupapa Kalaupapa National Historic Park Father Damien Mother Marianne Western Moloka‘i Pāpōhaku Mauna Loa / Pu‘unānā Dunes of Mo‘omomi
Moloka‘i Cultural / Historical Sites and Attractions Kaunakakai Moloka‘i’s main town is Kaunakakai on the island’s south coast. Kaunakakai’s main street, Ala Malama Street, is lined with false-front stores reminiscent of the Old West. The downtown area is only about three blocks long, and a weekly outdoor market offers fresh fruits and vegetables for sale each Saturday. Located across the highway from the town of Kaunakakai, the wharf where tug boats, barges, and ferry boats dock to bring goods and people to and from Moloka‘i. Due to the shallow waters, the wharf is nearly ½-mile (.8 km) long. Across the Kalohi Channel, the islands of Maui, Kaho‘olawe, and Lāna‘i are visible. Behind the nearby canoe club is the stone foundation remains of the thatched-grass summer home of King Kamehameha V (Lot Kapuāiwa Kamehameha). The home was called Malama. In 1860, Kamehameha V planted more than 1,000 niu (Cocos nucifera, coconut palms) over an area of about 10 acres (4 ha) along the coast at the site now known as Kapuāiwa Royal Coconut Grove. His reign as King Kamehameha V extended from Nov. 30, 1863 to Dec. 11, 1872.On the other side of the highway is Church Row, where the town’s several places of worship are lined up side by side. About 3 miles (4 km) east of Kaunakakai is One-ali‘i Beach Park, which includes two memorials commemorating Japanese immigrants. One-ali‘i means “Royal sands.”[cmxvii] [Kaunakakai, Maunaloa Highway (Hwy. 460), 5½ miles (9 km) southwest of airport.] Southeast Moloka‘i—Kaunakakai to Hālawa About 28 miles (45 km) east of Kaunakakai along the Kamehameha V Highway (Highway 450) is scenic Hālawa Valley. The road follows the ocean for much of the way, and the terrain gradually becomes more lush and tropical as it nears Hālawa. On the way from Kaunakakai to Hālawa are the towns of Kawela, Kamalō, ‘Ualapu‘e, and Kalua‘aha. Moloka‘i has some of the most extensive aquaculture complexes in all of Polynesia. The largest concentration of loko i‘a (fishponds) in the Hawaiian Islands is located on Moloka‘i’s southeast coast. Some of these ancient fishponds have been restored. Just east of Kaunakakai is Kaloko‘eli Fishpond, located behind the Moloka‘i Shores condominiums. Kaloko‘eli means “The dug pond,”[cmxviii] and is just one of more than 60 ancient fishponds once in use along Moloka‘i’s eastern shores. Just past Mile Marker 4 is the Nēnē o Moloka‘i Bird Propagation Facility, which offers tours of the nēnē propagation site. [Kaloko‘eli Fishpond, Kamehameha V Highway (Highway 450), about 6 miles (9.7 km) east of Kaunakakai.] [Nēnē o Moloka‘i, 808-553-5992, just past Mile Marker 4.] Kawela At Kawela is Kakahai‘a Beach Park, part of the Kakahai‘a National Wildlife Refuge, which is mostly closed to the public. Inland at Kawela, high on a ridge, is Kawela Pu‘uhonua, a sacred place of refuge in ancient times. Kawela was also the site of a 1736 battle in which warriors of the islands of Hawai‘i and Moloka‘i, led by Alapa‘inui, fought against the forces of O‘ahu. Five days of fighting resulted in the defeat of O‘ahu’s forces and the death of thousands (based on archaeological studies), including O‘ahu’s chief Kapi‘ioho-o-kalani (“The head curls of the royal chief”). (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1736.) Kamehameha also landed his forces at Kawela in 1794 as he rose to power as King Kamehameha I. [Kawela Pu‘uhonua, off Kamehameha V Highway (Hwy. 450), east of Kaunakakai near Kawela. Kawela Battlefield extends from Mile Markers 6 to 13.] Kamalō / St. Joseph’s Church St. Joseph’s Church is located in Kamalō, east of Kaunakakai. Built in 1876 by Father Damien (see below). A bronze statue of Father Damien is on display outside of the church. [Kamalō—St. Joseph’s Church, about 10 miles (16 km) east of Kaunakakai.] Smith and Bronte Landing On the makai side of the road after Mile Marker 11 is a sign marking the site of the crash landing of the plane of navigator Emily Bronte and airmail pilot Ernest Smith. Bronte and Smith were the first civilians to fly to the Hawaiian Islands from the United States Mainland (Oakland, California). Bronte and Smith’s July 14, 1927 journey, the first trans-Pacific flight by civilians, covered about 2,200 miles (3,541 km) and took 26 hours and 36 minutes. They originally intended to fly to Honolulu, but a fuel shortage led to the crash landing on Moloka‘i in their 27-foot (8-m) monoplane named The City of Oakland. [Smith and Bronte Landing, Highway 450, just past Mile Marker 11.] ‘Ualapu‘e Fishpond / Ah Ping Store The town of ‘Ualapu‘e is the site of ‘Ualapu‘e Fishpond. Located on the ocean side of the road, ‘Ualapu‘e Fishpond was one of many ancient loko ‘ia (fishponds) along Moloka‘i’s eastern shore. ‘Ualapu‘e is now restored, and is used to raise ‘ama ‘ama (Mugil cephalus, mullet). Just past the fishpond is the shell of the old Ah Ping Store, a Chinese-owned store built in the 1930s. [‘Ualapu‘e Fishpond / Ah Ping Store] Kalua‘aha Church / Our Lady of Sorrows Church East of Kaunakakai, just inland about 2 miles (3.2 km) past Kalua‘aha (“The gathering pit”[cmxix]), is the remains of Moloka‘i’s first Church, Kalua‘aha Church. The church was built in 1874 by the Reverend Harvey R. Hitchcock, the island’s first missionary, who established Moloka‘i’s first mission in 1832 (see Chapter 11, Timeline: 1832), when the missionaries estimated Moloka‘i’s population at 6,000 people (about the same as today). Kalua‘aha Church was one of the largest Western-style buildings in the Hawaiian Islands, and remained in use until the 1940s. To the east of the site is a marble headstone marking Reverend Hitchcock’s grave. About 200 yards (183 m) past Kalua‘aha Church is Our Lady of Sorrows Church, a Catholic church built in 1966, reconstructing the original church built there by Father Damien. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1832.)] Our Lady of Sorrows was the second church built by Father Damien. When he was on his way from Kalaupapa to St. Josephs he would say Mass at Our Lady of Sorrows Church. He did this even during the years before his death when he was very ill with leprosy (Hansen’s disease). [Kalua‘aha Church / Our Lady of Sorrows Church, inland about 2 miles (3.2 km) past Kalua‘aha town, between Mile Markers 14 and 15, on Kamehameha V Highway (Hwy. 450.)] ‘Ili‘ili‘ōpae Heiau / Pūko‘o ‘Ili‘ili‘ōpae Heiau, located just past Mile Marker 11 in southeast Moloka‘i, is a platform-type heiau, and the biggest of such sacred sites on Moloka‘i. It also may be Moloka‘i’s oldest heiau. ‘Ili‘ili‘ōpae Heiau is about 286 feet (87 m) long by 87 feet (27 m) wide, and ranges from about 11 to 22 feet (3.3 to 6.7 m) high. This heiau’s current size, about 3,000 square feet (279 sq. m), may be only about one third of the heiau’s original size. In ancient times, ‘Ili‘ili‘ōpae Heiau was a place where human sacrifices took place. According to legend, this heiau was also built by the legendary race of ancient people known as menehune who passed stones (‘ili‘ili) from hand-to-hand all the way from Wailau Valley to the site of the heiau. The workers were apparently paid with ‘ōpae (shrimp). (SeeMenehune, Chapter 3.) Past ‘Ili‘ili‘ōpae Heiau is Pūko‘o, a small village that used to be Moloka‘i’s center of government. [‘Ili‘ili‘ōpae Heiau, just past Mile Marker 11 on Kamehameha V Highway (Hwy. 450.) east of Kaunakakai.] Sacred Kukui Grove of Lanikaula Atop a hill on lands of the Pu‘u-o-Hoku Ranch is a 5-acre (2-ha) grove of kukui, where a sacred burial ground of the important 16th century kahuna named Lanikaula. This is not open to the public. Waialua Waialua is located near Mile Marker 19 on the Kamehameha V Highway (Hwy. 450). In the center of town isWaialua Congregational Church, which was constructed of stone in 1855. Just past town, on the inland side of the road, are the remains of the stone chimney of the Moanui Sugar Mill, which was destroyed by fire in the late 1800s. Waialua Beach (also called Twenty-Mile Beach), is located at the 20 Mile Marker, and provides good swimming and snorkeling. Nearby is a good surfing spot for kids, especially when the ocean is rough elsewhere. Caution is still advised, however, as strong currents sometimes make swimming dangerous. Just beyond is Rock Point, a popular surfing spot. From here the road winds upward into the lands of Pu‘u-o-Hoku Ranch. Offshore is a small islet called Mokuho‘oniki, which means “Pinch island (as a lover pinches)”[cmxx] Mokuho‘oniki is a seabird sanctuary, and can be seen from near Mile Marker 24. Just after Mile Marker 25 there is a sweeping view of Hālawa Valley. Hālawa Valley / Hālawa Bay Hālawa Valley is the easternmost of the amphitheater-like valleys on Moloka‘i’s north coast, and the only one easily accessible (by guided hikes). Considered by many to be one of the most scenic spots on Moloka‘i, the lush, steep-walled Hālawa Valley is about 3½ miles (5.6 km) deep and ½-mile (.8 km) wide, and includes two prominent waterfalls. At the head of the valley is Moa‘ula Falls, plunging about 250 feet down the mountain. About ¼-mile (.4 km) north of Moa‘ula Falls is Hīpuapua Falls, which plunges some 500 feet (152 m) down the mountain. Hīpuapua means“Tail flowing.”[cmxxi] Both falls can be seen from (Hwy. 450), and are accessible only through a guided permitted hike of about 4½ miles (7.2 km). Once a main farming area, Hālawa Valley was hit hard by the 1946 and 1957 tsunamis, and many of the residents were relocated. The two coves of the double-scalloped Hālawa Bay provide good swimming and surfing. The south side of the bay is generally more protected, but currents along the coast still require swimmers to always exercise caution. [Hālawa Valley / Hālawa Bay, northeast Moloka‘i.] [Photograph: Moloka‘i scene] Kamakou Preserve The 2,774-acre (1,123-ha) Kamakou Preserve includes the 4,961-foot (1,512-m) peak of Kamakou, Moloka‘i’s highest point. The Preserve also supports various types of native Hawaiian ecosystems, including cloud forests, bogs, and shrublands that provide habitat for endangered forest birds and other native species. Central and Northern Moloka‘i Moloka‘i Coffee Plantation Moloka‘i Coffee Plantation is located just a few miles northwest of Kaunakakai. Coffees of Hawai‘i runs tours of the coffee plantation store grown on their own 500-acre (202-ha) plantation and roasted there. Dozens of local artisans sell their wares at the store. [Coffees of Hawai‘i, 808-567-9241, www.coffeehawaii.com, 10-1] Moloka‘i Museum & Cultural Center / R. W. Meyer Sugar Mill Museum The Moloka‘i Museum & Cultural Center is located in the restored R. W. Meyer Sugar Mill, a very small sugar mill originally constructed in 1878, making it the oldest existing mill in the Hawaiian Islands that is now restored to operating condition. The structure is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The mill was built by German immigrant Rudolph Meyer, a Moloka‘i surveyor in 1848. Meyer married Kalama, a high chiefess, and managed the ranch lands that later became part of Moloka‘i Ranch. When Meyer constructed the sugar mill in 1878, he used mules and a steam engine to run the machinery that crushed and processed the sugarcane. The Meyer’s family home, still owned by descendants, is located just up the hill but is not open to the public. [Moloka‘i Museum & Cultural Center / R. W. Meyer Sugar Mill Museum, 808-567-6436, Kala‘e Highway (Hwy. 470), Kala‘e, open 10-2, Mon.-Sat. Directions: Take Kala‘e Highway (Hwy. 470) up from its intersection with Maunaloa Highway (Hwy. 460) toward central Moloka‘i. The museum is located between Kualapu‘u and the Kalaupapa Lookout.] Pālā‘au State Park / Kalaupapa Overlook Pālā‘au State Park is located about 10 miles (16 km) from Kaunakakai, and about 2 miles (3.2 km) past the Moloka‘i Museum & Cultural Center. Pālā‘au State Park encompasses 234 acres (95 ha) at an elevation of about 1,000 feet (305 m) above sea level. A short trail in the park leads to the legendary phallic rock known as Ka-ule-o-Nānāhoa, which is said to increase the fertility of women. Nearby are ancient petroglyphs. Kalaupapa Overlook, located at the end of a short trail through the pine forest, provides outstanding views of the Kalaupapa Peninsula and the town of Kalaupapa. Also at Pālā‘au State Park is the trailhead that leads down to Kalaupapa Peninsula (see below). [Pālā‘au State Park / Kalaupapa Overlook, 808-567-6923, end of Kala‘e Highway (Hwy. 470), 3 miles (4.8 km) north of Kualapu‘u, open dawn to dusk daily. Directions: Take Maunaloa Highway (Hwy. 460) to Kala‘e Highway (Hwy. 470), then go north to past the town of Kualapu‘u to the end of the road.] Kalaupapa Along Moloka‘i’s north-central coast is Kalaupapa National Historic Park, on the Kalaupapa Peninsula, which is accessible only by boat, airplane, foot, or mule. Kalaupapa Peninsula is surrounded on three sides by ocean. On the fourth side, cliffs rise up 2,000 to 3,000 feet (610 to 914 m). Mule ride tours down into Kalaupapa from Pālā‘au State Park are offered by Moloka‘i Mule Rides and Damien Tours (see below). The trail into Kalaupapa descends about 1,600 feet (488 m) and includes 26 switchback turns. Many archaeological sites attest to the fact that Kalaupapa was an important place in ancient Hawai‘i, and was well-populated before Captain Cook arrived in 1778 establishing Western contact. Beginning in 1865, the isolated valley was used to segregate victims of Hansen’s disease (also called leprosy), which is caused by Mycobacterium leprae, a slow-growing bacterium. A Belgian priest known as Father Damien (Joseph Damien DeVeuster), volunteered to minister to the victims of the disease at the Kalaupapa leper colony in 1873. Father Damien served tirelessly to help the residents of Kalaupapa, and he died there of leprosy 16 years later. Eventually nearly 9,000 people were quarantined at Kalaupapa. Today Father Damien’s spirit lives on as one of Hawai‘i’s beloved heroes. Referred to as the “Martyr of Moloka‘i,” Father Damien is immortalized in a statue that faces Beretania St. on O‘ahu, in front of the State CapitolBuilding. There is also a statue of Father Damien outside St. Joseph’s Church in Kamalō (see below). A selfless servant to those in need, Father Damien was beatified by Pope John Paul II on June 4, 1995 in Brussels, Belgium. (For more information about Father Damien, see Damien Museum in O‘ahu section, Chapter 2; and Chapter 11, Timeline: 1865; 1873; 1889; 1969; 1995.) Another selfless and dedicated servant ministering to the leprosy patients of Kalaupapa was Roman Catholic nunMother Marianne Cope. Born in Germany as Barbara Koob, she took the name Marianne upon joining the Sisters of the Third Order of St. Francis in 1862 in New York. Mother Marianne later volunteered to minister to leprosy patients in Honolulu, and moved to Kalaupapa five years later to supervise a new girls’ home for Hansen’s disease patients, eventually also running a home for boys. Mother Marianne first worked alongside Father Damien, and then continued working at Kalaupapa for decades after Damien’s passing. Mother Marianne ministered to the patients for a total of 30 years (1888-1918), until she passed away in 1918 at the age of 80. Mother Marianne was known for her uplifting attitude, helping the patients in many small but extremely meaningful ways, such as planting flowers and trees, and organizing picnics. She also sewed clothes for the Kalaupapa residents and played piano so they could sing along. King Kalākaua honored Mother Marianne with royal decorations, and Robert Louis Stevenson also wrote of her. One of the most notable women in the history of the Hawaiian Islands, Mother Marianne also founded Maui’s first hospital, now known as Maui Memorial Hospital. Mother Marianne’s canonization cause began decades ago, and in 1996 the accuracy of her documented life story was verified by Vatican historians. In October of 2003, Rome theologians gave their approval, and then in January of 2004, the Vatican’s Congregation for the Causes of Saints affirmed Mother Marianne’s “heroic virtue,” which was a step toward canonization and sainthood. The next step would be for the pope to declare her “venerable.” The next steps are beatification and then sainthood. A possible miracle attributed to Mother Marianne involved the unexpected recovery of an extremely ill teen-age girl. [Kalaupapa National Historic Park, 808-567-6802, Kalaupapa Settlement, Kalaupapa. Visits allowed only by invitation or on guided tour: 808-567-6171.] [Moloka‘i Mule Ride, 567-6088, 800-567-7550, www.muleride.com, Mon.-Sat.] [Damien Tours, 808-567-6171, land tours of Kalaupapa Peninsula.] Western Moloka‘i Pāpōhaku Spanning more than 3 miles (4.8 km) along Moloka‘i’s western coast, Pāpōhaku is one of the largest white sand beaches in the Hawaiian Islands. Warm, white sand and uncrowded conditions make Pāpōhaku a great place to visit. Be extremely cautious about swimming, however, as conditions may be unsafe. Three access points off Kaluako‘i Road lead to Pāpōhaku Beach. The first access point leads to Pāpōhaku BeachPark, which has restrooms, campsites, and other facilities making the spot a great picnic area. [Pāpōhaku Beach, Kaluako‘i Road, West Moloka‘i.] Mauna Loa / Pu‘unānā Atop the shield-shaped dome of Mauna Loa is a peak that lives up to its name, Pu‘unānā, which means“Observation hill.”[cmxxii] The view from atop Pu‘unānā, at an elevation of 1,381 feet (421 m), looks across eastern Moloka‘i’s Ho‘olehua plain and also provides a great view of Maui and Lāna‘i. Depending on visibility, Hawai‘i Island may also be seen. Dunes of Mo‘omomi The dunes of Mo‘omomi are located on Moloka‘i’s northwest coast. Mo‘omomi is the most undisturbed coastal sand dune system in the Hawaiian Islands, providing a unique Hawaiian habitat that supports many endangered plant species. Mo‘omomi is also an important Hawaiian cultural area with numerous sites considered of high value for studies regarding Hawaiian geology and paleontology. Honu (Chelonia mydas, Hawaiian green sea turtles) nest on the shores of Mo‘omomi. Monthly guided hikes are offered by the Nature Conservancy (808-553-5236). Kepuhi Beach Rough ocean conditions may make swimming dangerous at Kepuhi Beach, located to the west of Kaunakakai in front of the Kaluako‘i Hotel.
Lāna‘i The Private Isle Overview of Lāna‘i Land Area: 140.5 square miles (363.9 sq. km). Size Comparison: 6th largest Hawaiian Island; smallest inhabited island. Island Emblem: Kauna‘oa—Native Dodder (Cuscuta sandwichiana). Highest Elevation: 3,370 feet (1,027 m), at the summit of Lāna‘ihale. Official Nickname: The Private Isle. Also called: The Pineapple Island, The Secluded Island. [Illustration: Map—Lāna‘i] Lāna‘i is about 17½ miles (28 km) long by 13 miles (21 km) wide. The island of Lāna‘i is somewhat teardrop-shaped, with about 47 miles (76 km) of coastline. Lāna‘i is about 9 miles (14.5 km) west of Maui (across the ‘Au‘au Channel), and 9 miles (14.5 km) south of Moloka‘i. Lāna‘i’s Pālāwai Basin is the alluvium-filled crater of the single volcano that formed the island. The volcano last erupted about 1.3 million years ago. The Pālāwai Basin is now a fertile area, and many pineapples have been grown there. There are not many paved roads on Lāna‘i, and much of the island is accessible only by 4-wheel-drive vehicles. On a clear day atop Lāna‘ihale (“House [of] Lāna‘i”[cmxxiii]) the highest point on Lāna‘i, one may see five of the Hawaiian Islands. The 3,370-foot (1,027-m) summit of Lāna‘ihale is about 5 miles (8 km) southeast of Lāna‘i City and may be reached with a 4-wheel-drive vehicle if the roads are not washed out by rains. The peak of Lāna‘ihale is the highest point of the ridge that runs from southeast to northwest across the island. This ridge is a significant geographical feature affecting Lāna‘i’s climate, which is relatively dry because the northeast tradewinds are blocked by the West Maui Mountains. An ancient proverb states, “Niniu Moloka‘i, poahi Lāna‘i,” (“Moloka‘i revolves, Lāna‘i sways”), said to describe“...the revolving of the hips and the swaying movements in hula.”[cmxxiv]
Lāna‘i Cultural / Historical Sites and Attractions Lāna‘i City Dole Park Hawaiian Church Northwest of Lāna‘i City Kānepu‘u Forest Reserve Garden of the Gods South of Lāna‘i City Lu‘ahiwa Japanese Cemetery Kaunolū—An Ancient Fishing Village Halulu Heiau Kaumālapa‘u Harbor Nānāhoa Islet Kahekili’s Leap Northeast Lāna‘i Kahokunui South to Kahalepalaoa Landing Kaiolohia (Shipwreck Beach) and Keōmuku Beach Awalua Polihua Maunalei Keōmuku Ka Lanakili o Ka Mālamalama Church Kahe‘a Heiau Lōpā Kahalepalaoa Landing Nāhā Southeast Lāna‘i Hulopo‘e Beach (Hulapōeo) Mānele Bay Pu‘u Pehe (Sweetheart Rock) Lodge at Kō‘ele Ka Lokahi Ka Mālamalama Church
Lāna‘i Cultural / Historical Sites and Attractions Lāna‘i City Beginning in the 1920s, Lāna‘i was dominated by a vast pineapple plantation that eventually became the largest pineapple plantation in the world. The island’s central population lived in Lāna‘i City, a company town situated at an elevation of about 1,700 feet (518 m) above sea level, and set beneath the hills of Lāna‘ihale. Today Lāna‘i City remains the town’s central population area, and early 1900s era homes (many brightly painted) still line the streets. At the center of Lāna‘i is the grassy lawn of six-block-long Dole Park. Hawaiian Church is at the corner of Gay and 5th Streets. Very few of Lāna‘i’s residents live outside of Lāna‘i City. Lāna‘i City was originally built by James Drummond Dole (1877-1958), a pioneer in the pineapple industry. Dole purchased Lāna‘i in 1922 for $1,100,000 and soon had more than 19,000 acres (7,700 ha) planted, producing almost one-third of the world’s pineapple crop. Dole formed the Hawaiian Pineapple Company on December 4, 1901 and the first harvest took place in 1903. In 1906, Dole constructed a cannery in the Iwilei district on O‘ahu. At the time, Dole’s enterprise was the largest fruit factory in the world. After Dole planted the first pineapples on Lāna‘i in 1922, the pineapple industry dominated Lāna‘i for the next 65 years, producing as many as 250 million of the tasty fruits per year. Today pineapple is no longer king on Lāna‘i. The last major commercial pineapple harvest on Lāna‘i took place in 1992, though some pineapple “show fields” still adorn the landscape. A tourist oriented economy has now replaced the industrious company town that was once awakened each morning by the plantation whistle. In 1985, 98% of Lāna‘i was purchased by businessman David H. Murdock, who closed the pineapple plantation. The 1990s saw a marked rise in tourism related activities, and Lāna‘i now has two luxury resorts, including the Mānele Bay Hotel on the beach, and the Lodge at Kō‘ele in the mountains. Northwest of Lāna‘i City Kānepu‘u Forest Reserve Northwest of Lāna‘i City is Kānepu‘u Forest Reserve, which offers a self-guided nature trail through a rare Hawaiian lowland forest (the largest preserved native dryland forest in the Hawaiian Islands). The 590-acre (239-ha) Reserve is owned and managed by the Nature Conservancy, and provides habitat for many native plants and trees. A fifteen-minute loop trail includes informative signs. [Kānepu‘u Forest Reserve, 808-565-7430, 808-537-4508; open 9-4: Directions: Polihua Road, 6 miles (9.7 km) north of Lāna‘i City, Guided tours given by Nature Conservancy, Internet site: www.tnc-hawaii.org.] Garden of the Gods Also northwest of Lāna‘i City is a volcanic and eroded landscape known (in recent times) as Garden of the Gods. The area’s erosion is due largely to the overgrazing of the land by non-native animals, including deer, goats and cattle. In recent times, this barren landscape was given the name, Garden of the Gods. The wind eroded boulders show changing reddish hues as the sun sets, and there are spectacular views of the ocean and Moloka‘i, and sometimes O‘ahu. South of Lāna‘i City Lu‘ahiwa Lu‘ahiwa is located to the southeast of Lāna‘i City, and is rich in ancient petroglyphs. Lu‘ahiwa’s stone etchings are spread over at least 3 acres (1.2 ha). Japanese Cemetery Southeast of Shipwreck Beach is a Buddhist shrine that commemorates Japanese sugar plantation workers who died from disease in 1899. The plant once took up 2,400 acres (971 ha). [Japanese Cemetery, Directions: Take Keōmuku Road (Hwy. 44) to Shipwreck Beach, go 6½ miles (10.5 km) southeast.] Kaunolū—An Ancient Fishing Village Kaunolū is an ancient fishing village and bay in southeast Lāna‘i. Registered as a National Historic Landmark, Kaunolū is reached by following Mānele Road (Highway 440) south for 4½ miles (7 km) to Kaupili Road. Old house foundations and terraces may be seen Kaunolū along with the remains of an ancient sacred area called Halulu Heiau. Kaumālapa‘uHarbor Kaumālapa‘u Harbor, Lāna‘i’s main seaport, is reached by following Kaumālapa‘u Highway (Hwy. 440) west to the end and then turning left and driving about 7 miles (11.3 km). Kaumālapa‘u Harbor was developed in 1926 by James Drummond Dole and his Hawaiian Pineapple Company (later called Dole Company). Seacliffs along the western side of the harbor reach to 1,000 feet (305 m) high. Nānāhoa Islet, north of Kaumālapa‘u Harbor on Lāna‘i’s west side, consists of two large pillar stones. According to legend a man named Nānāhoa and his wife were turned into these stones. [Kaumālapa‘uHarbor, Kaumālapa‘u Highway, southwest Lāna‘i.] Kahekili’s Leap Near Kaumālapa‘u Harbor is Kahekili’s Leap (or Jump), a cliff that rises about 62 feet (19 m) above the ocean, and is said to have been a test for ancient warriors who would meet their death if they could not clear the ledge below. The site’s name also originated from the fact that it was the spot from which torch signals were sent to Maui’s chief,Kahekilinui‘ahumanu [Kahekili]. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1713.) In 1778, the young chief Kamehameha (who would later become King Kamehameha I), went aboard Captain Cook’s ship anchored off Maui. Kamehameha was accompanying Kalani‘ōpu‘u, the ruler of Hawai‘i Island. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1778). That same year, Kalani‘ōpu‘u’s forces (including Kamehameha) invaded Lāna‘i, resulting in the death of many of the island’s residents. After King Kamehameha I achieved his own military victories and began his reign, Kaunolū was one of the ruler’s favorite fishing areas. The waters offshore of Kaunolū are still known to be plentiful in many fish species, particularly aku(Katsuwonus pelamis, skipjack tuna). [Kahekili’s Leap, near Kaumālapa‘u Harbor, southwest Lāna‘i.] Northeast Lāna‘i Kahokunui South to Kahalepalaoa Landing Along the route from Kahokunui south to Kahalepalaoa Landing is Keōmuku Beach. The shoreline road goes for a total of 15 miles (24 km), ending at the “old village” of Naha. Kaiolohi‘a (Shipwreck Beach) and Keōmuku Beach Kaiolohi‘a (Shipwreck Beach) on Lāna‘i’s northeast coast is about 8 miles (13 km) northeast of Lāna‘i City. Since a British and an American ship wrecked on the offshore reef in the 1820s, Shipwreck Beach has been the site of the demise of hundreds of ships, including a massive World War II tanker now relegated to its restful rusting place there (though some say the ship was purposely abandoned). Another shipwreck is located along the beach at Awalua. Across the 9-mile (14.5-km) Kalohi Channel is Moloka‘i. Kaiolohi‘a (Shipwreck Beach) is known more as a beachcombing site than a swimming location due to the strong tradewinds and water conditions. The beach spans for 9 miles (14.5 km) from Kahokunui to Polihua (“Eggs [in] bosom”[cmxxv]), the name referring to the eggs of sea turtles, which nest on the region’s beaches. Polihua is more for beachcombers than swimmers because the beach‘s steep sand drop-off and strong currents make it a dangerous place to swim. Nearby is a site rich in ancient petroglyphs. [Kaiolohia (Shipwreck Beach), Directions: follow Keōmuku Road (Hwy. 44) north to the end at Kahokunui; also reached by going 11 miles (18 km) from Lāna‘i City on Polihua Road, past Garden of the Gods.] Maunalei About 1 mile (1.6 km) south of Kahokunui is Maunalei, the site of an ancient heiau. Unfortunately, the stones of the heiau were taken long ago for use in constructing a cattle pen, and this was said to have been one of the causes of the failure of the Maunalei Sugar Company (which took a swift downturn after the heiau stones were taken). Maunalei Sugar Company operations (see below) were centered at Keōmuku, about 6 miles (9.7 km) from Keōmuku Road (Highway 44). [Maunalei, 1 mile (1.6 km) south of Kahokunui, northeast Lāna‘i.] Keōmuku Keōmuku was a thriving sugar plantation community in the late 1800s when it was the headquarters of the Maunalei Sugar Company. Keōmuku was abandoned when the nearby sugar plantation failed (see above), and the area was used as ranchland until 1954. Still standing in Keōmuku is Ka Lanakila o Ka Mālamalama Church, originally constructed of wood in 1903, and now partially reconstructed. In the early 1900s Keōmuku was the headquarters of the Gay family’s cattle and sheep ranch. This ended in 1951 when the area was abandoned and the town’s residents moved to Lāna‘i City. [Ka Lanakila o Ka Mālamalama Church, 5 miles (8 km) southeast of Shipwreck Beach.] Kahe‘a Heiau Kahe‘a Heiau is located just south of Keōmuku. Use of the heiau’s stones by the Maunalei Sugar Company to construct a sugarcane railway was said to be a factor in the demise of the company’s plantation (see above). Right after the stones were used, the town’s water turned salty, and many of the workers died from a fever. Kahe‘a means “The red stains,”[cmxxvi] and is likely a reference to Kahe‘a Heiau being a luakini, where human sacrifices were performed. This eastern coastline region was also the site of ancient loko ‘ia (fishponds), though these are now not easily recognized. [Kahe‘a Heiau, 1½ miles (2.4 km) south of Keōmuku.] Lōpā Lōpā is the site of an ancient Hawaiian loko ‘ia (fishpond), and is also a popular local surf spot. Strong currents make swimming dangerous but the remote white-sand beach provides a nice picnic area. [Lōpā, 7 miles (11 km) down dirt road at end of Keōmuku Highway.] Kahalepalaoa Landing Not far south of Ka‘hea Heiau is Kahalepalaoa Landing, a popular recreational beach. Kahalepalaoa Landing was also the site of a wharf where sugar cane was loaded on vessels and sent to Maui. It is said that whale bones were often found along Lāna‘i’s eastern shoreline, including the Kahalepalaoa Landing area. Kahalepalaoa means “Storehouse for ivory.” Nāhā The old village of Nāhā, about 4 miles (6.4 km) down the road from Kahalepalaoa Landing, is a good fishing spot frequented by locals, but is not a good spot for swimming. At low tide, the rock walls of an ancient Hawaiian fishpond are visible. This southeast coastal area is where Lāna‘i’s sandy shoreline ends, giving way to the rising palis (cliffs) that extend to the northern shore’s Polihua (see above). [Nāhā, southeast Lāna‘i at the end of Keōmuku Highway (Hwy. 44) (follow dirt road along eastern shore).] Southeast Lāna‘i Hulopo‘e Beach Hulopo‘e Beach, southeast of Lāna‘i City, is a great place to swim and snorkel. Spinner dolphins (Stenella longisrostris; Hawaiian name: nai‘a) are frequently seen. Tidepools are located one side of the white, sandy beach, which is known for its clear blue waters. Hulopo‘e Beach provides a nice place for children to swim, and is fronted by grassy areas nice for picnics. There are also camping facilities. Hulopo‘e is designated a Marine Life Conservation District. [Hulopo‘e Beach, 8 miles (13 km) south of Lāna‘i City, at the south end of Mānele Road (Highway 440), near the Mānele Bay Hotel.] Mānele Bay Lāna‘i’s only public boat harbor, Mānele Bay was the main harbor before Kaumālapa‘u Harbor was constructed by Dole and his pineapple operation (see above). The harbor is now used by fishing boats as well as yachts and other pleasure craft. This is also where the ferry to Maui arrives and departs. Now designated as a Marine Life Conservation District, Mānele Bay is also the site of an ancient fishing village. Pu‘u Pehe (Sweetheart Rock) Hulopo‘e Beach and Mānele Bay are part of a State of Hawai‘i Marine Life Conservation District. A trail to the top of the ancient spatter cone that separates Hulopo‘e from Mānele Bay provides a great view of the 80-foot (24-m) high offshore sea stack called Pu‘u Pehe, or Sweetheart Rock. According to legend a young warrior of Lāna‘i, Makakehau, brought a girl, Pehe, from Maui to the rock and hid her there because she was so beautiful. When she was killed in a storm the distraught warrior retrieved her body from the cave at the base of the rock. Makakehau then buried Pehe at the rock’s summit and leaped from the cliffs to his death. Pu‘u Pehe means “Pehe’s hill.”[cmxxvii] Lodge at Kō‘ele Ka Lokahi Ka Mālamalama Church Near the entrance to the Lodge at Kō‘ele is Ka Lokahi Ka Mālamalama Church, constructed in 1938. This church was moved to its current site when the Lodge at Kō‘ele was built.
Maui The Valley Isle Overview of Maui Land Area: 727.2 square miles (1,883.4 sq. km). Size Comparison: 2nd largest Hawaiian Island. Island Emblem: Pua Lokelani—Damask Rose (Rosa species). Highest Elevation: 10,023 feet (3,055 m), at the summit of Haleakalā. Official Nickname: The Valley Isle. [Visitor Information: Lahaina Courthouse, 648 Wharf Street, 808-667-9193. ] [Maui Visitors Bureau: www.visitmaui.com.] [Illustration: Map—Maui] Ringed with beautiful beaches, quiet coves and hidden waterfalls, Maui is about 48 miles (77 km) long by 26 miles (42 km) wide. During the November to May whale-watching season Maui is one of the best Hawaiian Islands to view koholā (Megaptera novaeangliae, humpback whales) breaching . A well-known local saying is “Maui nō ka ‘oi,” which translates to “Maui excels”[cmxxviii] or “Maui is indeed the best.”[cmxxix] This popular Hawaiian saying comes from a song by that name written by Reverend Samuel Kapū. Maui was formed by two separate volcanoes, which today are bridged by an isthmus of land that connects the two parts of the island. The West Maui Mountains rise to 5,788 feet (1,764 m) at Pu‘u Kukui (“Candlenut hill”[cmxxx]), and are older and more sculpted by erosion than the younger East Maui Mountains, which rise up broad, sloping hills to the 10,023-foot (3,055-m) summit of Haleakalā Volcano, a site of ancient Hawaiian astronomy. Throughout the 1900s, Maui’s economy was centered on agriculture, especially sugar and pineapple. In the 1970s, resort development and tourism became the driving forces of Maui‘s economy. Today the championship golf courses and beachfront resort hotels of western Maui’s Kā‘anapali and Kapalua are world-renowned, as is the bustling town of Lahaina. Other parts of the island remain remote, undeveloped, bathed in waterfalls and rainbows, and steeped in Maui’s rich cultural history.
Maui Cultural / Historical Sites and Attractions Western Maui Lahaina The Carthaginian II Pioneer Inn Banyan Tree Square Lahanina Courthouse and Cannons Fort Masters’ Reading Room / Lahaina Restoration Foundation Baldwin House Hauola Stone Lahaina Lighthouse The Brick Palace Wo Hing Temple Museum Lahaina Whaling Museum Waine‘e Cemetery and Waiola Congregational Church (Waine‘e Church) Malu‘ulu-o-Lele Park / Lahaina Hongwanji Mission Hale Pa‘ahao (“Stuck-in-Irons House”) Maria Lanakila Church Seamen’s Cemetery Seamen’s Hospital Lahaina Jodo Mission Pioneer Sugar Mill Lahainaluna Seminary North of Lahaina Wahikuli Wayside Beach Park Hanaka‘ō‘ō Beach Park (Canoe Beach) Kā‘anapali Whaler’s Village Museum Keka‘a (Black Rock) Lahaina Kā‘anapali & Pacific Railroad Kapalua Nākālele Point / Kahakuloa U.S. Coast Guard Lighthouse Pu‘u-koa‘e (Kahukuloa Head) Central Maui—Kahului and Wailuku
Wailuku Historic District ‘Īao Theater Ka‘ahumanu Church Keōpūolani Park and War Memorial Stadium Bailey House Museum (Hale-Hō‘ike‘ike) Kepaniwai Heritage Garden ‘Īao Valley ‘Īao Valley State Park ‘Īao Needle (Kūka‘emoku) Hawai‘i Nature Center Kanahā Pond Wildlife Refuge Maui Tropical Plantation Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum Kahului Harbor Maui Arts & Cultural Center Castle Theater A & B Amphitheater Haleki‘i-Pihana State Monument Upcountry Maui Makawao Komoda Store and Bakery Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center Kula Kula Botanical Gardens Church of the Holy Ghost Polipoli Spring State Recreation Area Haleakalā National Park The Road to Hāna Pā‘ia / Ho‘okipa Beach The Hāna Highway Huelo and Kailua Ke‘anae Peninsula Ke‘anae Overlook Ke‘anae Arboretum Wailua Wailua Overlook Wailua Canyon Wailua Village Our Lady of Fatima Shrine Waikāne Falls Wai‘anapanapa State Park Hāna Hāna Bay / Ka‘uiki Ka‘uiki Head Kaihalulu (Red Sand Beach) Hotel Hāna-Maui Hāna Ranch Kōkī Beach / Hāmoa Beach Ka-iwi-o-Pele ‘Ālau Island Haneo‘o Road Loop Pi‘ilane-hale Heiau / Kahanu Gardens Hāna Cultural Center and Museum Kīpahulu / ‘Ohe‘o Gulch Pīpīwai Trail Makahiku Falls Overlook Waimoku Falls Palapala Ho‘omau Congregational Church / The Grave of Charles Lindbergh South of Lahaina Olowalu Olowalu to Mā‘alaea Papawai Point Molokini Islet Mā‘alaea Bay andSmall Boat Harbor Maui Ocean Center Kīhei Kama‘ole Beach Parks Keālia Pond National Wildlife Reserve Kalama Beach Park Ulua Beach Wailea Wailea Beach Mākena Beach State Park Pu‘u Ōla‘i Cinder Cone La Pérouse Bay (Kalepolepo) Cape Kīna‘u Peninsula ‘Āhihi-Kīna‘u Marine Preserve
Maui Cultural / Historical Sites and Attractions Western Maui Lahaina Lahaina was the capital of the Hawaiian Kingdom under the rule of King Kamehameha I in 1803-1804. Lahaina is known not only for its shopping and nightlife, but also for its rich, post-contact past, including many historic churches and homes. The Carthaginian II The Carthaginian II is a replica of the 960-ton (871-mton) brigantine Carthaginian, which ran between the Hawaiian Islands, China, and New England in the 1800s, and was one of the last square-riggers in the Hawaiian Islands. The Carthaginian sank in 1972 after hitting a reef outside of Lahaina Harbor. The replica was built in Germany in 1920 and arrived in Lahaina in 1973, and then was docked at Lahaina (opposite the north end of Wharf Street). The vessel then underwent a seven year restoration/conversion into a Carthaginian replica and became known as the Carthaginian II. The ship included handcrafted masts and yards. The ship was later sunk and is now provides an attraction for scuba divers. Pioneer Inn On Lahaina’s small-boat harbor is the old Pioneer Inn, a Lahaina landmark. Built in 1901 (with additions in 1965), its ambiance harkens to the whaling era in the 1800s. The peak years for whaling ships visiting Lahaina were the 1840s, when the town’s bars and brothels were the denizens of hundreds of derelict sailors. Up until the 1950s the Pioneer Inn was western Maui’s only hotel. Many prominent guests have stayed there over the years. A renovation of the Pioneer Inn took place in 1994. [Pioneer Inn, 808-661-3636, 658 Wharf Street, Lahaina.] Banyan Tree Square Next to the Pioneer Inn is Banyan Tree Square, home to the nation’s largest banyan tree, which stands more than 60 feet (30 m) high and covers more than 2/3 acre (.3 ha). The tree is one of the world’s largest Indian Banyan trees (Ficus benghalensis), and also the largest banyan in the Hawaiian Islands and the United States. Lahaina town sheriff William Owen Smith planted the banyan tree on April 24, 1873 to mark the 50th anniversary of the first missionaries on Lahaina. [Banyan Tree Square, Front Street between Hotel and Canal Streets, Lahaina.] Lahaina Courthouse and Cannons Next to the banyan tree is the old Lahaina Courthouse, a former center of government. The building was originally constructed in 1859, then rebuilt in 1925 and restored in 1999. The Lahaina Courthouse was used for various functions in old Lahaina, serving as the collector’s office, governor’s office, post office, and local vault. The building’s basement was formerly a jail, and is now home to the Lahaina Arts Society. Artwork is on display in the former cells. The four cannons now placed along the harbor waterfront near the old Courthouse came from the wreck of a Russian warship that wrecked and sank in Honolulu Harbor in 1816. [Lahaina Courthouse, 808-661-0111, 649 Wharf Street, Lahaina, tours, open 9 to 5 daily.] Fort The ruins of an 1832 fort at Canal and Wharf Streets marks the site of a former prison that faces the harbor’s whaling ships (the prison’s main customers). A law prohibiting women swimming out to the ships was said to have been the cause of angry sailors lobbing cannonballs at Lahaina.The fort’s blocks were used to build a prison at Waine‘e and Prison Streets (see HalePa‘ahao below). [Fort, Canal and Wharf Streets.] Masters’ Reading Room / Lahaina Restoration Foundation The Lahaina Restoration Foundation is located in the coral and stone (hard “blue rock”) building known as the Masters’ Reading Room, on the corner of Dickenson and Front Streets. Originally constructed in 1834, the building was restored in 1970 by the Lahaina Restoration Foundation. During the whaling days, the upstairs of the building was used by sea captains as somewhat of an “officers club,” providing a place for the captains to read and perhaps get some respite from their rowdy crews while still keeping an eye on them. The Masters’ Reading Room had previously been used by missionary families as a storeroom. [Masters’ Reading Room / Lahaina Restoration Foundation, 808-661-3262, 120 Dickenson Street, Lahaina, at Front Street, open 10-4 daily.] Baldwin House Next door to the Masters’ Reading Room is the restored Baldwin House, one of Lahaina’s oldest buildings. Constructed of coral and stone in 1834 by missionary Ephraim Spaulding, the home was later occupied by missionary doctor Reverend Dwight D. Baldwin and his family. The Baldwins moved into the home in 1836 and lived there until 1868. The house was also used as a medical office and for missionary purposes. A seamen’s chapel was located behind the Baldwin House, and provided Christian reading rooms for use by sailors. In the early 1960s the Baldwin House was restored by the Lahaina Restoration Foundation. The original 24-inch (61-cm) thick stone walls of the Baldwin House are still standing, but are now plastered over. Now open as a museum, the Baldwin House exhibits many antiques and other items, including fine furniture and china brought around Cape Horn by the Baldwins. Also on display is the family’s grand piano. The building now houses the Lahaina Restoration Foundation, which offers a walking tour brochure of the town. [Baldwin House, 696 Front Street, Lahaina, 808-661-3262; tours 10 to 4:00 daily.] Hauola Stone Just offshore is Hauola Stone. According to Hawaiian legend, a woman was running from her enemies when the gods turned her into the flat, seat-shaped lava rock. This rock is said to possess powerful healing properties. In ancient times, mothers placed the child’s piko (umbilical cord) beneath the stone so that their child would be strong and healthy. Lahaina Lighthouse Just south of Hauola Stone is the Lahaina Lighthouse, said to be the Pacific’s oldest lighthouse. It was originally constructed in 1840 and then rebuilt in 1916. [Lahaina Lighthouse, Lahaina] The Brick Palace In front of the Pioneer Inn are the remnants of a structure now called the Brick Palace. King Kamehameha I had two Australian ex-convicts build the structure using locally made bricks. Completed around 1800, it was likely the first Western-designed building in the Hawaiian Islands. King Kamehameha I lived in the building for just one year, and for the next 70 years the structure was used as a meeting place and storehouse. It was last used in the 1850s. The building’s foundations and cornerstones were later excavated, and are now visible. [Brick Palace, located at the makai (ocean) end of Market Street, Lahaina.] Wo Hing Temple Museum The Wo Hing Temple, located on Lahaina’s Front Street, was built in 1912 by a Chinese fraternal society called Chee Kung Tong, which was originally founded in the 1600s. The Lahaina temple was restored in 1983, and is now a museum exhibiting various Chinese artifacts, documents, and photos, as well as information about early plantation immigrants. Also on display at Wo Hing Temple is Maui’s only public Taoist altar. The adjacent cookhouse has been converted into a small historic theater that shows films taken by Thomas Edison during his 1898 and 1905 visits to the Hawaiian Islands. [Wo Hing Temple, 808-661-5553, 858 Front Street, Lahaina, 10-4:15 daily.] Lahaina Whaling Museum The Lahaina Whaling Museum displays a variety of whaling-era artifacts, including scrimshaw, harpoons, and a whalers’ try-pot that was used for boiling whale blubber. The Museum also has photos of the original Carthaginianmeeting its final fate as it sank outside Lahaina Harbor in 1972. [Lahaina Whaling Museum, 865 Front Street (in Crazy Shirts store), Lahaina.] Waine‘e Cemetery and Waiola Congregational Church (Waine‘e Church) Located on Waine‘e Street in Lahaina is Waine‘e Cemetery, the final resting place of QueenKeōpūolanikauhiakama [Keōpūolani] (1778-1823), who became the sacred wife of King Kamehameha I at age 17. QueenKeōpūolani gave birth to two future kings, Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho (Kamehameha II) and Kauikeaouli (Kamehameha III), and a princess, Nāhi‘ena‘ena. An hour before her death, Queen Keōpūolani became the first native Hawaiian to receive the Protestant rite of baptism. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1778.) Another prominent Hawaiian buried at Waine‘e Cemetery is Governor Hoapili (1776-1840), also known asUlumāheihei. He was given the name Hoapili because of his close friendship with Kamehameha I (Hoapili means “Close friend”[cmxxxi]). After King Kamehameha I’s death in 1819, Hoapili was entrusted with hiding King Kamehameha’s bones. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1819, May 8.) After Keōpūolanikauhiakama [Keōpūolani] died, Hoapili married Kalākua (the daughter of Ke‘eaumoku Pāpa‘iaheahe and Nāmāhānaikaleleonalani [Nāmāhana]), and had a child, Kekāuluohi (Miriam ‘Auhea), who gave birth, with Charles Kana‘ina, to the future King Lunalilo. Kalākua also gave birth (with King Kamehameha I) to Kamāmalu, who became queen as wife of King Kamehameha II (Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho). Hoapili married King Kamehameha’s sacred wife, Keōpūolani, becoming her sole husband when she abandoned polygamy. From 1836 to 1840, Hoapili was Governor of Lāna‘i, Maui, and Moloka‘i. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1776.) Another prominent person buried at Waine‘e Cemetery is Lahaina’s first missionary, Reverend William Richards. Waiola Congregational Church is located next to the Waine‘e Cemetery, and was founded by Hoapili. Formerly on the site of Waiola Congregational Church was Waine‘e Church, which was constructed of stone by Hawaiians, by order of their chiefs, for the missionaries. The structure was completed in 1832, and Governor Hoapili named the church Ebenezer. In 1838 the bell and steeple of Waine‘e Church fell down. Then in 1894 anti-annexation royalists set the church on fire because the church’s minister favored of annexation. The structure was rebuilt, then burned down again in 1947 and was rebuilt once again. Just a few years later a storm toppled the structure. The current church was completed in 1953 and named Waiola, which means “Water [of] life.”[cmxxxii] Waine‘e means “Moving water.”[cmxxxiii] [Waiola Church and Waine‘e Cemetery, 808-661-4349, 535 Waine‘e Street, Lahaina.] Malu‘ulu-o-Lele Park / Lahaina Hongwanji Mission Malu‘ulu-o-Lele means “Breadfruit shelter of Lele”[cmxxxiv] (Lele referred to the Lahaina district). This park was once home to Maui chiefs and later to King Kamehameha I, then his sons, King Kamehameha II (Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho) and King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli). Also located at the site was a royal burial chamber. Next to Malu‘ulu-o-Lele Park is the Lahaina Hongwanji Mission, built in 1927. [Lahaina Hongwanji Mission, 808-661-0640, 551 Waine‘e Street, Lahaina.] Hale Pa‘ahao (“Stuck-in-Irons House”) At the corner of Waine‘e and Prison Streets is an old prison known as Hale Pa‘ahao (“Stuck-in-Irons House”). Convicts built the prison’s 8-foot (2.4-m) high stone walls in 1852 with blocks taken from a fort that once stood on the town’s waterfront. (See Fort above.) Various exhibits, including ball and chain restraints and wall shackles, are a reminder of the prison’s heyday when the town was full of boisterous whalers and other salty seamen. [Hale Pa‘ahao, Prison and Waine‘e Streets, Lahaina; open 8 to 5 daily.] Maria Lanakila Church On Waine‘e Street is Maria Lanakila Church, Maui’s first Catholic Church. The church was dedicated in 1858. Maria Lanakila means “Mary [Our Lady of] Victory.”[cmxxxv] [Maria Lanakila Church, Waine‘e and Dickenson Streets, Lahaina.] Seamen’s Cemetery Next to Maria Lanakila Church is the Seamen’s Cemetery, where many whaling-era sailors were laid to rest. Also buried at the cemetery is a cousin of the famed Moby Dick author Herman Melville, and a man that came to the islands with Melville on the Acushnet. Seamen’s Hospital On Front Street is the old Seamen’s Hospital, now used for offices. Seamen’s Hospital was established in 1844 by the United States government to care for sick seamen (the State Department leased the building). A large anchor on the lawn fronting the building is a reminder of the many sick and injured seamen that visited this hospital. A purported scandal at the hospital involved the adding of the names of deceased sailors to reimbursement sheets in order to collect fees from the United States government. A United States warship arrived and completed an investigation of the notoriously corrupt hospital, but the ship mysteriously disappeared at sea on its return voyage. The Seamen’s Hospital building was originally constructed in the 1830s for use by the royal court of King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli). Adjacent to the old hospital is a sugar plantation camp residence built around 1900. [Seamen’s Hospital, 808-661-3262, 1024 Front Street, Lahaina; the building is now used for offices.] Lahaina Jodo Mission Farther north along Front Street is the Lahaina Jodo Mission (open to the public), where a huge bronze Buddha statue that is said to be the largest outside of Asia was erected in 1968 to celebrate the 100 year anniversary of the immigration of Japanese to the Hawaiian Islands. Pioneer Sugar Mill Above the center of Lahaina is the Pioneer Sugar Mill, which began its West Maui operations in 1862 and harvested its last sugarcane crop in 1999 when Amfac/JMB closed the plant. The Pioneer Mill Company once farmed 17 miles (27 km) of coastal sugarcane fields, During the early 1900s, about 1,600 Pioneer Mill Company workers were harvesting more than 5,000 acres (2,025 ha) and producing an annual crop of more than 45,000 tons (40,825 mtons). Amfac/JMB Hawai‘i closed the plant in 1999. Coffee and diversified agriculture products are now grown throughout the region. Lahainaluna Seminary The Lahainaluna Seminary is located at the end of Lahainaluna Road, a little over 1 mile (1.6 km) up from the Pioneer Sugar Mill. Though it is now a public high school, Lahainaluna was originally established in September of 1831 as the first English school in the Hawaiian Islands. The seminary’s goal was to provide advanced education for young Hawaiian men while training them to become preachers with the goal of advancing Christianity. On February 14, 1834, the first issue of Lahainaluna Seminary’s four-page Hawaiian language weekly, Ka Lama Hawaii was printed. This was the first periodical printed in the North Pacific region. In 1836, Lorrin Andrews (1795-1868) was head of Lahainaluna Seminary, and published the first significant Hawaiian-English vocabulary book, including about 5,700 words. (Note: Earlier lists had been published—see Hawaiian Language section, Chapter 3.) Andrews also published a grammar book of the Hawaiian language in 1854, and then a dictionary in 1865. Andrews was an associate justice of Hawai‘i’s Supreme Court, and a judge on the probate court. In 1838, Lahainaluna’s Reverend Sheldon Dibble (1809-1845) published Ka Moolele Hawaii (Lahainaluna: Mission Press). As a history teacher at Lahainaluna, Dibble had his students collect oral histories from native Hawaiians (their own elders, and others), resulting in the gathering of a great deal of information about the pre-contact history of theHawaiian Islands. The information (for the first time) was extensively written using the newly constructed written Hawaiian language, which was modeled after the oral Hawaiian language. (See Hawaiian Language section, Chapter 3.) Dibble’s historical reports were developed with the assistance of two particularly prolific Lahainaluna students, David Malo (c.1793-1853) and Samuel Mānaiakalani Kamakau (1815-1876), now highly regarded as two of the era’s most prominent Hawaiian historians. Malo and Kamakau collected and document many legends, genealogies and chants as well as specific details of historical events of pre-contact Hawai‘i. (See Writings of Ancient Hawaiian History section, Appendix 2.) In 1839, Dibble published A History and General Views of the Sandwich Islands Mission (New York: Taylor & Dodd). Then in 1843 Dibble published the History of the Sandwich Islands (Lahaina, Maui: Press of the Mission Seminary). (See (See Writings of Ancient Hawaiian History section, Appendix 2.) Malo’s writings were dated around 1840, but were not published in English until Nathaniel Emerson’s translation entitled Hawaiian Antiquities (Ka Moolele Hawaii), published by the Hawaiian Gazette Company in 1903. David Malo’s gravesite is located on the hillside above Lahainaluna. Kamakau wrote historical articles for Hawaiian language newspapers Ke Au ‘Oko‘a and Ka Nupepa Kū‘oko‘a, producing more than 200 articles between 1866 and 1871. Samuel Mānaiakalani Kamakau was also a founding member of the Royal Hawaiian Historical Society in 1841, and served in the Legislature from 1851 until his death in 1876. Kamakau’s Ruling Chiefs of Hawai‘i (Honolulu: Kamehameha Schools Press, 1961) was translated by Mary Kawena Pūku‘i (1895-1986) and published by Kamehameha Schools Press in 1961. A second volume of Kamakau’s writings, entitled Ka Po‘e Kahiko: The People of Old (Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1964) was translated by Pūku‘i and published by Bishop Museum Press in 1964, 88 years after Kamakau passed away. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1815.) In 1845, the Lahainaluna Seminary Press published the first English-Hawaiian Dictionary, which was prepared by Artemas Bishop (1795-1872) and Joseph S. Emerson (1800-1867). (See Hawaiian Language section, Chapter 3.) The first printing press in the Hawaiian Islands was established on the Lahainaluna groundsin 1837, six years after the school was established. The Ramage press was used to produce Bibles as well as a variety of other books totaling hundreds of thousands of pages. It also produced the first newspaper in the Hawaiian Islands. A restoration of Lahainaluna’s printing house was completed in 1982. A replica of the original Ramage press is now on display at Lahainaluna’s Hale Pa‘i (“House [of] Printing”) along with numerous examples of early printing efforts, including manuscripts, books, and newspapers. The replica press may be used by visitors to print a page from the first primer in the Hawaiian Islands. [Hale Pa‘i at Lahainaluna, 808-661-3262, 980 Lahainaluna Road, Lahaina.] North of Lahaina Wahikuli Wayside Beach Park Wahikuli Wayside Beach Park is 2 miles (3.2 km) north of Lahaina. Wahikuli means “Noisy place.”[cmxxxvi] The beach is a good place to swim and snorkel, with restrooms and showers available. The beach park is across the street from the post office, police station and civic center. Hanaka‘ō‘ō Beach Park (Canoe Beach) Hanaka‘ō‘ō Beach Park, north of Wahikulu Wayside Beach Park, is also a nice place to swim if the waves aren’t too big. Also called Canoe Beach, the waters are used by local outrigger canoe paddlers who are commonly seen traversing the bay’s waters. Hanaka‘ō‘ō means “The digging stick bay.”[cmxxxvii] Kā‘anapali Just 2 miles (3.2 km) up the coast from Lahaina is the resort area of Kā‘anapali, which includes a stretch of pristine white-sand beach more than 2 miles (3.2 km) long. Kā‘anapali also includes six high-rise hotels fronting the beach, with numerous swimming pools, two 18-hole championship golf courses, and 40 tennis courts. The Royal Lahaina Resort Tennis Ranch has a 3,500 seat stadium court. The three-story Whalers Village shopping center has many restaurants and stores as well as the Whalers Village Museum, which includes various photos, artifacts (e.g., harpoons), scrimshaw, whale models, ship’s logs, and displays related to whaling. The whaling era took place from about 1825-1860, when ships arrived from New England as well as Canada and England. The museum also includes a re-created whale ship forecastle as well as a scale model of a whale ship. The museum is located on the mezzanine level of the shopping center. Above the entrance is a 40-foot (12-m) skeleton of a palaoa (Physeter macrocephalus, sperm whale). Kā‘anapali resort began when the Royal Lahaina Hotel and the Sheraton Maui Hotel were opened in 1962 on former sugarcane land owned by Amfac, owners of the Pioneer Sugar Mill. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1849.) Today Kā‘anapali Beach, fronting the large hotels, is a mecca of sunbathers, windsurfers, parasailers, and boat cruises as well as shops and concession stands. Kā‘anapali’s offshore waters are also frequented by koholā (Megaptera novaeangliae, humpback whales) during the winter months, so whale watching is often possible from shore. The lobby of the Hyatt Regency Maui includes a multi-million dollar art collection. Lāna‘i and Moloka‘i are visible across the ‘Au‘au Channel from Kā‘anapali. [Kā‘anapali, directions: take Honoapi‘ilani Highway to any of three Kā‘anapali exits.] [Visitor Information, 808-661-3271, 2530 Keka‘a Drive.] [Whalers Village Museum, 808-661-5992, 2435 Kā‘anapali Parkway, Suite 816, open 9:30-10 daily, free admission, www.whalersvillage.com.] Keka‘a (Black Rock) Near the Sheraton Maui Hotel is the sacred site called Keka‘a, commonly known as Black Rock, Maui’s westernmost point. At this site in ancient days Maui’s King Kahekilinui‘ahumanu [Kahekili] was known to leap from the rock into the sea. Today other brave souls make the exciting jump from atop the rock. If the currents aren’t too strong, the southern side of the rock is a great snorkeling location, as is the horseshoe-shaped cove off the tip of the rock. According to legend, the rock’s origins involve a man named Moemoe insulted the demigod Māui, who then turned Moemoe into the rock. Keka‘a is said to be a place from which spirits departed to go to their ancestral homelands. Keka‘a means “The rumble,”[cmxxxviii]and refers to sounds made by the rock during storms. Lahaina Kā‘anapali & Pacific Railroad The Hawaiian Islands once had 33 industrial railroads. The main use of these railroads was to transport sugarcane to mills and bring the workers to the fields. Seven common carrier railroads in the Hawaiian Islands also transported passengers and freight. Today the Lahaina Kā‘anapali & Pacific Railroad, the “Sugarcane Train,” is Maui’s only passenger train. From about 1890 to 1950, the Sugarcane Train was used for transporting the sugarcane to the mill. The 1890s vintage train with replica Kalākaua coaches now provides a nice ride through the former sugarcane fields over the 6 miles (9.7 km) from Lahaina past Kā‘anapali to Pu‘ukoli‘i. The scenic train ride traverses a wooden trestle that spans 415 feet (126 m). [Lahaina Kā‘anapali & Pacific Railroad Lahaina Station, 661-0089, Hinau St. off Honoapi‘ilani Highway (Highway 30), 1½ blocks north of Lahainaluna Road. Kā‘anapali Station, Mauka side of Highway 30 off Pu‘ukoli‘i Road. Kapalua On the northwestern most part of Maui is Kapalua, including five ocean bays formed by lava peninsulas. The Kapalua Bay Hotel was built in 1978 by the Maui Land & Pineapple Company. Today it remains as a vacation spot for many rich and famous guests. The resort also has gift shops and some of Maui’s finest (and most expensive) fare. Less expensive, local-style plate lunches are available at Honolua Store. [KapaluaDiscovery Center, Kapalua Shops, 115 Bay Drive. [Kapalua Nature Society, 808-669-0244, 800 Kapalua Drive.] Nākālele Point / Kahakuloa Western Maui has beautiful mountains, rugged and remote beaches, and pristine bays that provide spectacular summer snorkeling. The region’s ahupua‘a (traditional watershed land divisions) are still inhabited by the descendants of ancient royalty. North of Kapalua and Honolua Bay, the road winds along the coast around the top of the island to Nākālele Point and then south to Kahakuloa (“The tall lord”[cmxxxix]), a small village reminiscent of old Maui,. The nearby coast has great swimming and snorkeling locations. Nākālele Point is a lava landscape with erupting geysers of water when the waves are breaking. There is a modest sized U. S. Coast Guard Lighthouse. A 636-foot (194-m) hill on the south side of Kahakuloa Bay is known as Pu‘u-koa‘e (“Tropicbird hill”[cmxl]), also called Kahakuloa Head, which provides habitat for various native seabirds. This area of western Maui’s coast has good swimming and snorkeling spots as well as hiking opportunities. [Kahakuloa, North end of Honoapi‘ilani Highway (Hwy. 30), western Maui.] Central Maui—Wailuku and Kahului Central Maui is the isthmus separating eastern and western Maui, includes the towns of Wailuku and Kahului. Historic Wailuku is the county seat, while Kahului Harbor hosts cruise ships and ocean barges. Kahului is home to the Maui Arts & Cultural Center (see below). Ka‘ahumanu Shopping Center in Kahului is Maui’s largest mall, and includes a Visitor Information Center. Wailuku Historic District The Wailuku Historic district is located on Ka‘ahumanu Avenue, and includes the ‘Īao Theater, a well-photographed local landmark. Built in 1927 and later restored in the Art Deco style, the theater has long been the site of community gatherings, and is home to the Maui Community Theater. Wailuku’s Historic District includes numerous buildings listed on the National Register of Historic Places. A self-guided walking tour brochure is provided free by the Wailuku Main Street Association (see below). The mayor’s office is at the corner of Main and High Streets. [Wailuku Historic District, Market, Vineyard, and High Streets, Wailuku.] [‘Īao Theater, 808-242-6969, 68 North Market Street, Wailuku.] [Wailuku Main Street Association, 2062 Main Street, Wailuku, 808-244-3888.] Ka‘ahumanu Church Located on High Street, this New England style wooden church was constructed in 1876. The church is said to have been built at the site after Queen Ka‘ahumanu attended a service at the location and then asked that a permanent church be built there. Ka‘ahumanu Church still has an all-Hawaiian language Sunday service. On High Street is Ka‘ahumanu Church [Ka‘ahumanu Church, 808-244-5189, 103 South High Street, Wailuku.] Keōpūolani Park and War Memorial Stadium Keōpūolani Park and the War Memorial Stadium (where the annual Hula Bowl is held) are located on 101 acres (41 ha) in Kahului on Ka‘ahumanu Ave. A botanical garden at the Park is a good place to see native plants, and the park has a 3 mile (4.8 km) walking path. [Keōpūolani Park and War Memorial Stadium, Kanaloa Ave, Kahului.] Bailey House Museum (Hale-Hō‘ike‘ike) On Main Street across from Ka‘ahumanu Church is the Bailey House, built from 1833 to 1850 using lava rock and native woods such as koa (Acaciakoa). Edward Bailey supervised the construction of the building which housed the Wailuku Female Seminary, Maui’s first Hawaiian girls’ school, which trained girls in the “feminine arts.” The Wailuku Female Seminary was founded by Edward and Caroline Bailey, who came to the Hawaiian Islands with the Eighth Company of American missionaries in 1837. (See Chapter 11, Timeline:1837, April 9.). The building was home to the Wailuku Female Seminary until about 1847, and then served as the Bailey’s house until 1888. Edward Bailey was the head of the Wailuku Female Seminary. The structure is now plastered over, and is known as the Bailey House Museum. Edward Bailey was also an artist, and some of his oil paintings may now be seen at the museum. Also on display is ancient Hawaiian weaponry, kapa (tapa) barkcloth, and other culturally significant items. The structure is also known as Hale-Hō‘ike‘ike (House of Display), and it is operated by the Maui Historical Society. [Bailey House Museum, 808-244-3326, 2375-A Main St., Wailuku, www.mauimuseum.org, open 10-4, Mon-Sat.] Kepaniwai Heritage Garden Further up, Main Street becomes ‘Īao Valley Road and leads to Kepaniwai Park & Heritage Gardens, a county park where ethnic displays memorialize various cultures, including traditional dwellings of the Hawaiian Islands, New England, Portugal, China, and the Philippines. ‘Īao Valley ‘Īao Valley, an ancient burial place of chiefs, is also the site of one of King Kamehameha I’s most famous battles. In 1790, Kamehameha landed his troops on Maui to fight against Kalanikūkupule, son of Kahekilinui‘ahumanu [Kahekili]. Fighting between the two groups of warriors began in Wailuku, and the battle proceeded up into ‘Īao Valley where precipitous cliffs at the head of the valley blocked escape. Kamehameha’s forces had the advantage of superior western weapons (muskets) as well as a cannon manned by the foreigners John Young (‘Olohana) and Isaac Davis (‘Aikake). (See Olowalu above.) Kamehameha’s forces prevailed in the conflict, and the island of Maui came under Kamehameha’s rule. In Kamehameha’s victory at ‘Īao Valley, dead bodies from both sides are said to have blocked the river, giving the battle its name, the Battle of Kepaniwai (“Battle of the water dam”[cmxli]). Kahekili’s son, Kalanikūpule, fled over a narrow mountain pass along with his high chiefs, and they sailed to O‘ahu where Kahekili began war preparations. (SeeChapter 11, Timeline: 1790 for more details of the Battle of Kepaniwai.) ‘Īao Valley is also home to the 1,200-foot (366-m) tall ‘Īao Needle, which stands at an elevation of 2,250 feet (686 m) above sea level. ‘Iāo means “Cloud supreme,”[cmxlii] and was the site of ancient rituals. At the end of ‘Īao Valley Road is ‘Īao Valley State Park and the prominent ‘Īao Needle, known in ancient times as Kūka‘emoku. Rising up steeply about 1,200 feet (366 m) from the floor of ‘Īao Valley, ‘Īao Needle’s peak stands at an elevation of 2,250 feet (686 m). The Hawai‘i Nature Center provides hiking and educational opportunities in ‘Īao Valley. The Interactive Nature Museum with more than 30 hands-on exhibits about Hawaiian natural history. [‘Īao Valley State Park, Hawai‘i 32, ‘Īao Valley Rd., 808-984-8109.] [Hawai‘i Nature Center, 808-244-6500, 875 ‘Īao Valley Road, Wailuku, open 10-4 daily, wwwhawaiinaturecenter.com.] Kanahā Pond Wildlife Refuge Located in Central Maui, Kanahā Pond Wildlife Refuge is home to many native birds including the endangered ae‘o (Himantopus mexicanus knudseni, Hawaiian black-necked stilt) and the ‘alae ke‘oke‘o (Fulica alai, Hawaiian coot). [Kanahā Pond Wildlife Refuge, 808-984-8100, 2 miles (3.2 km) west of junction of Hāna Highway (Hwy. 36), and Haleakalā Highway (Hwy. 37).] Maui Tropical Plantation Maui Tropical Plantation is an agricultural theme park set on 60 acres (24 ha) of former sugarcane land located in Central Maui off the Honoapi‘ilani Highway (Hwy. 30) just outside of Wailuku. A narrated half-hour tram ride educates visitors about sugarcane varieties and growing techniques Maui Tropical Plantation also displays historic and cultural exhibits, and there are opportunities for coconut and fruit tasting as well as lei making. The “country store” sells many locally-made products. [Maui Tropical Plantation & Country Store, 808-244-7643, 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Highway (Hwy. 30), Waikapū, open 9-5 daily.] Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum Maui’s sugarcane days are relived at Central Maui’s Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum. The firm of Alexander & Baldwin was one of the “Big Five” companies, which also included: Castle & Cooke; Amfac; Theo H. Davies; and C. Brewer. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1858.) The Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum features exhibits about the production of sugarcane (including a scale model of a cane crusher) as well as displays about immigrants and plantation life. Also told is the story of Samuel Alexander and Henry Baldwin, including their ambitious irrigation ditch construction projects, and their battles with Claus Spreckels over Upcountry water. The firm of Alexander & Baldwin was originally established in 1870 by Samuel Thomas Alexander and Henry Perrine Baldwin. Baldwin (who had lost his arm in a factory accident) and Alexander had purchased 12 acres (4.9 ha) of land in Makawao, Maui for $110 just a year earlier (1869) for the purpose of growing sugarcane. In 1876, the firm began the construction of the 17-mile (27-km) long Hāmākua irrigation ditch to carry water from Haleakalā to East Maui. The Hawaiian Sugar Company was established by Alexander & Baldwin in 1889 in Makaweli, Kaua‘i, and then in 1894 began its own sugar agency in San Francisco, California. In 1898, Alexander & Baldwin took control of the Hawaiian Commercial & Sugar Company in Pu‘unēnē, Maui, and then incorporated in the Hawaiian Islands in 1900. Today the firm of Alexander & Baldwin is worth more than $900 million. The company owns Matson Navigation, numerous commercial properties on the United States Mainland, and significant amounts of land in the Hawaiian Islands. The Sugar Museum is located across from the Hawaiian Commercial & Sugar Company sugar mill, which began operating in 1902, and at one time was the world’s largest sugar mill. Workers and plantation families lived in Pu‘unēnē, which was home to as many as 10,000 workers in 1930. From the museum, Wailuku is reached by traveling northwest to the end of Pu‘unēnē Avenue and then turning left on Ka‘ahumanu Avenue. [Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum, 808-871-8058, 3957 Hansen Road (at Pu‘unēnē Avenue), Pu‘unēnē, 9:30-4:30, Mon.-Sat. (open Sundays during the summer), www.sugarmuseum.com.] Kahului Harbor Kahului Harbor is the island’s main port and Maui’s only deep-draft harbor. It is also the destination of weekly cruise ship stops as well as the arrival point of cargo ships. [Kahului Harbor, Kahului Beach Road, Kahului.] Maui Arts & Cultural Center Located above Kahului Harbor, the Maui Arts & Cultural Center is a world-class facility, commonly known as the “Center,” this $32 million complex was built by generous public donations, and includes the luxurious 1,200 seat Castle Theater (with orchestra, mezzanine, and balcony levels). Less formal affairs, such as rock and roll shows, take place in the A & B Amphitheater. Also at the Center are exhibits, classrooms, an art gallery, another theater, and a lava rock wall. [Maui Arts & Cultural Center, 808-242-2787, Box office: 808-242-7469, 1 Cameron Way, Kahului Beach Road (above Kahului Harbor), Kahului; open 9-5 weekdays.] Haleki‘i-Pihana State Monument King Kamehameha I’s sacred wife Queen Keōpūolanikauhiakama [Keōpūolani] was born at this location. The site was also the residence of the residence of Kahekilinui‘ahumanu [Kahekili], Maui’s famous warrior and last ruling chief, who was conquered by King Kamehameha I. This is also where King Kamehameha I came after the battle to make an offering to his war god. The site, with panoramic views of central Maui, consists of two heiau: Haleki‘i and Pihanakalani. Pihanakalani was a luakini (where human sacrifices were performed), and is thought to have been the site where King Kamehameha I enacted the last of such sacrifices on Maui. Haleki‘i Heiau was rebuilt in 1958 with the goal of replicating its original structure as it looked when it was built, which is thought to have occurred around A.D. 1200. [Haleiki‘i-Pihana Heiau State Monument, Kea Place, off Kūhiō Place, from Waiehu Beach Road (Hwy. 340), Kahului, Open 7-7 daily.] Upcountry Maui’s “upcountry” towns offer leisurely walks through botanical gardens as well as many scenic views. The upcountry region starts at about the 1,000-foot (305-m) elevation, at Pukalani (“Heavenly Gate”[cmxliii]), and then ascends higher on Haleakalā’s slopes to the ranching communities of Makawao, Kula, Kēōkea, and ‘Ulupalakua. [University of Hawaii Maui Agricultural Substation, 808-878-1213, 209 Mauna Place, off Copp Rd.] [Enchanting Floral Garden, 808-878-2531, Hawai‘i 37 at Milepost 10, Kula.] Makawao The town borders ranch lands, and still evokes the paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) spirit. Local rodeos include the annual Makawao Rodeo held every July 4. Makawao’s false-front buildings give the town an Old West feel. Many of Makawao’s original founders were Portuguese and Japanese immigrants who came to the Hawaiian Islands to work on the sugar plantations, and then later moved “upcountry.” A Makawao town landmark is the Komoda Store and Bakery, which has changed little in the last 75 years. Also located in Makawao is Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center, in an old plantation-era home. Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center offers classes as well as exhibits. [Makawao, Highway 365, East Maui.] [Komoda Store and Bakery, 808-572-7261, 3674 Baldwin Avenue.] [Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center, 808-572-6560, 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, www.maui.net/c.hui, open M-Sat., 10-4.] Kula Kula is known for its flower farms where protea, bird of paradise, orchids, carnations, and many other flowers bloom in great quantities. Kula farmers also produce a variety of agricultural products, including large strawberries, sweet Kula onions, and various specialty items used in Maui’s finer restaurants. Kula Botanical Gardens is a 6-acre (2.4-ha) garden at an elevation of about 3,300 feet (1,006 m), and displays various native and Polynesian-introduced trees and plants as well as many exotic flowers, including an orchid house and about 60 varieties of proteas. A gazebo, aviary, and koi pond also add to the setting. On the nearby property are twelve thousand pine trees, and about 1,800 are sold each Christmas. Kula’s Church of the Holy Ghost was built in 1897. The church has a baroque-style altar and a replica of the crown of Portugal’s Queen Isabella, which was a gift from the Portuguese royal family. [Kula Botanical Gardens, 808-878-1715, open 9-4 daily.] Polipoli Spring State Recreation Area Polipoli Spring State Recreation Area is located on Haleakalā’s western slope at an elevation of 6,200 feet (1890 m) in the Kula Forest Reserve. Numerous hiking trails at Polipoli lead through coniferous forests that include sequoia and redwood groves as well as cedars and pines. Other species include eucalyptus, cypress, and ash. The region was extensively planted in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC), a work program that was instituted during the Depression. Camping at Polipoli is allowed with permits, and one cabin is available for rent (see information below). [Polipoli Spring State Recreation Area, 808-984-8109. Directions: From Kula, take Kekaulike Avenue (Hawai‘i 377), turn up Waipoli Road; Reservations: Division of State Parks.] Haleakalā National Park East Maui, the drier leeward side of Maui, is dominated by Haleakalā Volcano, an important location in ancient Hawaiian culture. According to legend, Hina, the mother of the demigod Māui, did not have time to dry her kapa cloth, and so she asked her trickster son Māui to do something about the short days. Māui saw the sun appear at the top of Haleakalā each morning and then race across the sky, so he went there and waited for the sun to rise. When the sun appeared, Māui lassoed its rays and made it agree to move more slowly across the sky. Haleakalā is defined as“House [used] by the sun.”[cmxliv] or “House of the shadow of the sun”[cmxlv] (hale means “house,” aka means“shadow,” and lā means “sun.” Ancient astronomers of the Hawaiian Islands used the bowl of the summit crater somewhat like a giant sundial, observing the points of rising and setting of the sun that revealed to them the beginning and end of particular seasons. According to legend, Māui went to Haleakalā to seek the knowledge of a‘o hōkū (astronomers) there, who used the movement of shadows passing over the bowl of the summit crater to study the transition of the sun. Haleakalā summit is said to have been an ancient school of astronomy, and the traditional legend of Māui ensnaring the sun is said to mean, more literally, that he snared the knowledge of the sun, and then went on to become the most famous ho‘okele (navigator) in all of ancient Polynesia. Today locals consider the summit of Haleakalā, which rises to 10,023 feet (3,055 m), the best place in the world to see the sunrise. Many visitors arrive before first light to stand in awe as the sun arrives. The volcano is still potentially active. In 1790 Haleakalā released an estimated 22 square miles (57 sq. km) of lava, totaling nearly one billion cubic feet (28,316,847 cu. m) of lava. The lava flows reached the sea and formed the Cape Kīna‘u Peninsula, changing the shape of the southwest Maui coastline. An ancient proverb states, “Akāka wale o Haleakalā,” (“Haleakalā stands in full view.”), which was “...said of anything that is very obvious or clearly understood.”[cmxlvi] Relatively recent lava, ash, and cinder flows have left black, yellow, gray, and red streaks across the summit crater of Haleakalā. The 21-square-mile (54.4-sq-km) summit crater is 7 miles (11.3 km) long and 3,000 feet (914 m) deep. Haleakalā’s summit crater is a moonscape of brown, red, green, and black mineral deposits, as well as cinder cones, some of which are more than 600 feet (183 m) tall. The summit area is so lunar-like it was actually used by astronauts training for missions to the moon. A unique phenomenon occurs at the summit area when mist or clouds roll into the summit crater. A person standing at an overlook may find their shadow cast onto the clouds below and completely encircled by a rainbow. This phenomenon is known as akakū ānuenue (rainbow apparition), and is also known as the “Specter of the Brocken,” referring to a place in Germany where this phenomenon also occurs. Science installations atop Haleakalā include the Advanced Electro-Optical System 3.7-meter Telescope (1997); the Mees Solar Observatory (1964); the Lunar Ranging Facility (1976/1984); and the Maui Space Surveillance Site and Haleakalā Observatories Projects. [Photograph: Haleakalā Summit] [Haleakalā National Park, 808-572-4400, 871-5054; Summit Visitor Center, 11 miles (18 km) from entrance; www.nps.gov/hale.] [Pony Express Tours (in summit caldera), 808-667-2200.] The Road to Hānā Pā‘ia / Ho‘okipa Beach Pā‘ia is a former sugarcane town, which had a mill and plantation housing. Pā‘ia grew rapidly during World War II when marines were stationed at the nearby town of Ha‘ikū. About 2 miles (3.2 km), past Pā‘ia is Ho‘okipa Beach, a world famous windsurfing and surfing location where experts of the sport ply their trade in the offshore wind and waves. [Pā‘ia, junction of Highways 390 and 36.] [Ho‘okipa Beach, 2 miles (3.2 km) past Pā‘ia on Highway 36.] The Hāna Highway The road to “heavenly Hāna” begins after passing the town of Pā‘ia and the famous windsurfer beach of Ho‘okipa. From Pā‘ia, the Hāna Highway (Hwy. 360) proceeds to wind its way along 53 miles (85 km) of rugged lava coastline and past dozens of waterfalls. The road also rounds 617 turns and crosses over 56 bridges, most of them one lane, and each with its own poetic name. Along the Hāna Highway are many pleasant stops, including several wayside parks with waterfall views as well as some opportunities for short hikes. Huelo and Kailua A small farm town, Huelo is the site of two churches and several Bed and Breakfast accommodations. Kailua’s residents are mostly employees of Alexander & Baldwin. Near Mile Marker 11 is the bridge over Puahokamoa Streamwith waterfalls and pools as well as picnic tables (but no restrooms). [Huelo and Kailua, Mile Markers 5 and 6, Hāna Highway (Hwy. 360).] Ke‘anae Peninsula Ke‘anae Overlook is located near Mile Marker 17, with great views over the lo‘i kalo (taro ponds) of Ke‘anae and the Pacific Ocean. A turnoff from the main road near Mile Marker 17 leads to the Ke‘anae Peninsula, the site of ancient lo‘i kalo (taro patches) and more scenic, rugged lava shoreline. [Ke‘anae Peninsula, Overlook, near Mile Marker 17, Hāna Highway (Hwy. 360).] Ke‘anae Arboretum Ke‘anae Arboretum displays many native and Polynesian-introduced plants. The Ke‘anae Arboretum also has a swimming hole on the Pi‘ina‘au Stream. A hiking trail near a lo‘i kalo (taro patch) leads to a nice forest area. [Ke‘anae Arboretum, Hāna Highway (Hwy. 360), Mile Marker 17, Ke‘anae, open daily.] Wailua Wailua Overlook provides views of Wailua Canyon and Wailua Village. At Wailua Village is the historic church now called Our Lady of Fatima Shrine, and formerly called St. Gabriel’s Catholic Church. The historic church was built of coral in 1860. [Wailua Overlook, near Mile Marker 21, Hāna Highway (Hwy. 360), Wailua.] Waikāne Falls A prodigious supply of water makes Waikāne Falls among the most scenic of the waterfalls along the Hāna Highway. [Waikāne, just past Mile Marker 21, Hāna Highway (Hwy. 360), Wailua.] Wai‘anapanapa State Park Just before the town of Hāna is Wai‘anapanapa State Park, a scenic camping and picnic spot on a grassy lawn atop the coastline’s black sand beaches. Also located on this stretch of coastline are tide pools, sea caves, and lava stone arches. Sacred sites nearby include a heiau (sacred place of worship) and a burial site. Cabins at Wai‘anapanapa are available by advance reservation. [Wai‘anapanapa State Park, 808-984-8109, near Mile Marker 32, Hāna.] Hāna On Maui’s eastern shore is “Heavenly Hāna,” known for its spectacular coastline and beautiful beaches. Hāna is also known for its many rivers and streams, scenic waterfalls, and refreshing swimming holes. The town of Hāna is centered on Hāna Bay. On the southern side of Hāna Bay is Ka‘uiki, the site of major battles between warriors from the islands of Hawai‘i and Maui. A short trail on the right side of Hāna Bay leads to the cave that was the birthplace of Queen Ka‘ahumanu (1768-1832). At the base of Ka‘uiki Head is the beach called Kaihalulu, also known as Red Sand Beach. The red sand was produced by the erosion of a nearby cinder cone. Kaihalulu means “Roaring sea.”[cmxlvii] Hotel Hāna-Maui Hāna is the site of Maui’s first resort, the Hotel Hāna-Maui, which opened in 1961 and has since hosted many famous guests including Clark Gable. The low-key hotel includes a restaurant, bar, and gift shops. The last sugarcane plantation in the area shut down in the 1940s. Ranching became a mainstay of the region’s economy after 1946 when rancher Paul Fagan built Hotel Hāna-Maui and stocked a cattle ranch in the surrounding area. A cross on the hill above the hotel was placed there in memory of Fagan. [Hotel Hāna-Maui, 808-248-8211, Hāna Highway (Hwy. 360), Hāna.] Hāna Ranch The Hāna Ranch encompasses 3,000 acres (1,214 ha). Kōkī Beach / Hāmoa Beach About 2 miles (3.2 km) past Hāna are Kōkī Beach and Hāmoa Beach, and the important Hawaiian cultural sites known as Ka-iwi-o-Pele (“The bone of Pele”) and ‘Ālau Island, which is a seabird sanctuary offshore of Kōkī Beach. According to Hawaiian legend this is where the demigod Maui fished up the Hawaiian Islands from the sea. ‘Ālau means“Many rocks.”[cmxlviii] The beaches are accessed by taking the 1½-mile (2.4-km) Haneo‘o Road Loop that runs past both Kōkī and Hāmoa beaches and also passes two ancient loko i‘a (fishponds). Hāmoa Beach is used by patrons of the Hotel Hāna-Maui. Public access is provided by steps leading to the beach. [Kōkī Beach/Hāmoa Beach, turnoff is about 2 miles (3.2 km) past Hāna, ½-mile (.8 km) south of Hāna Ranch headquarters.] Pi‘ilane-hale Heiau / Kahanu Gardens Just north of Hāna town is Pi‘ilane-hale Heiau, said to be the largest of all heiau (sacred places of worship) in the Hawaiian Islands. The walls of the structure are up to 90 feet (27 m) high. The heiau was built for the famous Maui chief Pi‘ilani around A.D. 1400. Pi‘ilani also supervised the building of a 10-foot (3-m) wide road encircling Maui. The heiau, still overseen by local caretakers, offers a brochure for those interested in a self-guided tour (for a fee). and is now located within the 472-acre (191-ha) Kahanu Gardens, which exhibits Pacific Island plant collections, particularly the important cultural plants of Melanesia, Micronesia, and Polynesia. The Gardens are known for having one of the largest collections anywhere of cultivars of breadfruit. Groups of four or more may reserve guided tours, which include the 122-acre (49-ha) Kahanu Garden [Pi‘ilane-hale Heiau and Kahanu Gardens, 808-248-8912. Directions: At Mile Marker 31, turn left on ‘Ula‘ino Road, proceed onto gravel road, and then another 1½ miles (2.4 km), Open 9-3 M-F.] Hāna Cultural Center and Museum The Hāna Cultural Center is located on the Hāna Highway (Hwy. 360) in a former police station that was built in 1871. The Cultural Center provides information and exhibits about the history of the region. Also on display are traditional thatched structures and Hawaiian artifacts. [Hāna Cultural Center, 808-248-8622, Uakea & Hāna Roads, near Mile Marker 35, Hāna Highway (Hwy. 360), open 10-4 daily, www.planet-hawaii.com/hana.] Kīpahulu / Ohe‘o Gulch Kīpahulu is about 10 miles (16 km) south of Hāna, and is the site of dense rainforest and the popular ‘Ohe‘o Gulch, commonly (though inappropriately) called Seven Sacred Pools, a name not favored by Hawaiians as the pools did not have a sacred history. This whole area (Kīpahulu) is part of Haleakalā National Park. The Pīpīwai Trail provides a ½-mile (.8-km) hike to the Makahiku Falls Overlook. A trail to the left leads to the swimming hole at the top of the falls. Beware of rising waters as this pool may be dangerous. The trail goes another 1½ miles (2.4 km), passing through groves of bamboo and leading to Waimoku Falls, which plunges 400 feet (122 m) down the mountain. Another pool is found at the base of Waimoku Falls. This pool was partially filled by a 1976 landslide caused by an earthquake. Falling rocks (from the sheer cliff above) remain a danger, so swimming in this pool is not recommended. Yet another swimming hole can be found by walking up the small stream that is about 100 yards (91 m) before Waimoku Falls. About halfway between the two waterfalls is another pool. [Kīpahulu Ranger Station, 808-248-7375, Kīpahulu, Maui.] Palapala Ho‘omau Congregational Church / The Grave of Charles Lindbergh Built in 1857, Palapala Ho‘omau Congregational Church is the burial site of famous American aviator Charles Lindbergh (1902-1974), a former resident of Kīpahulu with his wife, writer Ann Morrow Lindbergh. Charles Lindbergh’s granite headstone is taken from the Bible’s Psalm 139, and reads, “If I take the wings of morning and dwell in the uttermost parts of the sea...” [Palapala Ho‘omau Congregational Church, Pi‘ilane Highway (Hwy. 31), 1 mile (1.6 km) south of ‘Ohe‘o Gulch, Kīpahulu.] [Photograph: Maui scene] [Garden of Eden Arboretum and Botanical Garden, 808-280-1912, Mile Marker 10.] South of Lahaina Olowalu Located south of Lahaina, Olowalu was the site of the infamous 1790 Olowalu Massacre by Simon Metcalfe, who was in command of the snow Eleanora in the Hawaiian Islands when one of his skiffs was stolen by the chief Ka‘ōpūiki. To exact revenge, Metcalfe lured native Hawaiians in canoes to his ship to trade, and then opened cannon fire on them, killing more than 100 Hawaiians. Off the coast of Hawai‘i Island, Metcalfe then punished Chief Kame‘eiamoku by whipping him. Some weeks later, Kame‘eiamoku attacked the Fair American, which was under the command of Metcalfe’s 18-year-old son, Thomas. Thomas and all of the Fair American’s crew were killed, except for Isaac Davis (later known as‘Aikake ) (1758-1810), who was tied to a canoe and left half blind and nearly dead. It is said that Davis’ life was spared because of his brave fighting. Simon Metcalfe sailed away, leaving his boatswain John Young (later known as ‘Olohana) (c.1749-1835) onshore. The Fair American was taken over by Kamehameha. Davis and Young became Kamehameha’s supporters and advisers, manning large guns from canoes during the invasion of the northern coast of Hawai‘i Island as well as during later attacks on O‘ahu and Maui. (See ‘Īao Valley below). (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1790.) Young (also known as ‘Olohana) eventually became governor of several Hawaiian Islands and had estates on all the Hawaiian Islands. Davis (known as ‘Aikake) eventually became a chief and married a relative of King Kamehameha I. Davis later became Governor of O‘ahu, and owned estates on O‘ahu, Maui, Moloka‘i, and Hawai‘i Island. Young’s granddaughter was Queen Emma (1836-1885), wife of King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani). Young’s grandson, Isaac Young Davis, became the second husband of Princess Ruth Ke‘elikōlani (1826-1883). Olowalu to Mā‘alaea The span of coastal road heading south from Olowalu along Honoapi‘ilani Highway (Hwy. 30) toward Mā‘alaea is a prime area to see koholā (Megaptera novaeangliae, humpback whales) during the winter months. (See Humpback Whalessection.) A scenic lookout at Papawai Point on the west end of Mā‘alaea Bay is a great place to look for the huge cetaceans. Visible offshore are the islands of Kaho‘olawe and Lāna‘i, as well as Molokini Islet, a pristine snorkeling site now designated as a Marine Conservation District. Molokini is a crescent-moon-shaped volcanic crater with great coral reefs teeming with colorful fish. Molokini is located about 3 miles (4.8 km) offshore from Mākena, and rises about 165 feet (50 m) above sea level, encompassing about 18 acres (7 ha)). Mā‘alaea Bay and Harbor Mā‘alaea Harbor is a busy place, offering whale watch excursions as well as opportunities for scuba diving and evening sails. The small boat harbor also has 89 slips for boats. On the left of Mā‘alaea Harbor is a popular surfing spot called “freight train.” Inland from the harbor, the hills begin their rise up to the peak of Haleakalā, while across the channel to the west are the islands of Kaho‘olawe and Lāna‘i. [Mā‘alaea Harbor, off Honoapi‘ilani Highway. (Hwy. 30).] Maui Ocean Center The Maui Ocean Center is located in Mā‘alaea overlooking Mā‘alaea Harbor, and is devoted to marine life of the Hawaiian Islands and the Pacific Ocean. The Center features a custom-designed 750,000 gallon (2.8 million l) saltwater aquarium holding nearly 2,000 fish. A 50-foot (15-m) long acrylic tunnel through the aquarium allows the viewer to be surrounded ocean life. The Turtle Lagoon features honu (Hawaiian green sea turtles), and the Discovery Pool allows children to hold sea stars, sea urchins and sea cucumbers. An outdoor pool features stingrays and eaglerays. A restaurant and a store at the Center sell food and gifts. [Maui Ocean Center, 808-270-7000, 192 Mā‘alaea Road, Mā‘alaea; 9-6, M-F (June-Aug).; 9-5, M-F (Sep.-May), www.mauioceancenter.com. Directions: From West Maui take Hwy.30 past Mā‘alaea Boat Harbor. Turn right on Mā‘alaea Road. Maui Ocean Center is on the left.] Kīhei Kama‘ole Beach Parks Kīhei is the site of many relatively new homes, condominiums, hotels, and stores built during the last two decades. The local beach parks, called Kama‘ole Beach Parks I, II, and III provide restrooms and showers as well as nice lawns with tables for picnics. Keālia Pond National Wildlife Reserve Also in Kīhei is the 700-acre (283-ha) Keālia Pond National Wildlife Reserve, home to many native birds. A boardwalk through the ponded areas provides opportunities for bird watching. [Keālia Pond National Wildlife Reserve, 808-875-1582, Junction of Pi‘ilani Highway (Hawai‘i 31) & Mokulele Highway, Hawai‘i 350.] Kalama Beach Park Kalama Beach Park provides grassy areas for relaxation. Ulua Beach Wailea Wailea Beach Mākena Beach State Park Located just south of Wailea are the two beaches of Mākena. The main stretch of sand at Mākena is an exceptionally large, white-sand sand beach known as “Big Beach,” (Mākena means “Abundance”). The beach is about 3,000 feet (914 m) long with no homes or hotels to disrupt the serenity. Pu‘u Ōla‘i, a cinder cone, rises up on the right end of the Mākena. A walk over the rocks of the cinder cone leads to the area known as “Little Beach.” [Mākena Beach State Park, off Wailea Alanui Drive, Mākena.] La Pérouse Bay (Kalepolepo) From Mākena Beach, the highway leads over lava flows that formed during Haleakalā Volcano’s most recent eruption in 1790 when the volcano released an estimated 22 square miles (57 sq. km) of lava totaling nearly 1 billion cubic feet (28,300,000 cu. m) of lava. The 1790 lava flows reached the sea where they cooled and hardened, forming the Cape Kīna‘u Peninsula. These massive lava flows changed the shape of the southwest Maui coastline, and created the area now known as La Pérouse Bay. (See Hāleakalā Volcano section above.) La Pérouse Bay is now part of the ‘Āhihi-Kīna‘u Marine Preserve and is located at the end of Mākena Alanui Road in south Maui. Rocky reef and coral provide great snorkeling opportunities when the trade winds aren’t too strong. La Pérouse Bay was named in honor of the 1786 visit by French admiral Jean François de Galaup, Comte de La Pérouse, who had been chosen by Louis XVI to command two, 500-ton (452-mton) armed frigates, the Boussole and theAstrolabe. On March 6, 1786, Count de la Pérouse surveyed a Northwestern Hawaiian Islands atoll reef that later came to be known as French Frigate Shoals. Pérouse’s two frigates almost wrecked on the reef, and the French Frigate Shoals gained their name in honor of this near mishap. This was the first documented Western discovery of French Frigate Shoals. On May 29, 1786, Pérouse’s two French naval frigates arrived at Maui. Sailing along Maui’s southwest coast, Pérouse was met by about 150 canoes. Pérouse first made a landing on Maui on May 30, 1786 at the spot now known as La Pérouse Bay (Hawaiian name: Kalepolepo). The next day Pérouse went ashore with an armed party and exchanged gifts. Pérouse’s ships also visited the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands and named Necker Island after a French statesman. After other adventures, the two ships (carrying goods to trade) left Australia in 1788 and then mysteriously vanished. Some 40 years later it was revealed that the ships were caught in a storm off the island of Vanicoro, part of the Santa Cruz group. [La Pérouse Bay, about 7 miles (11 km) south of Wailea.]
Hawai‘i Island (The Big Island) The Orchid Isle Overview of Hawai‘i Island Land Area: 4,028 square miles (10,432.5 sq. km). Size Comparison: Hawai‘i Island is the largest Hawaiian Island. Island Emblem: Pua Lehua—Red Blossom of ‘Ōhi‘a Lehua (Metrosideros species). Highest Elevation: 13,796 feet (4,205 m), at the summit of Mauna Kea. Official Nickname: The Orchid Isle. Also called: The Big Island. Visitor Information: Big Island Visitors Bureau, 808-886-1655 - located at King’s Shops at Waikōloa Resort, 250 Waikōloa Beach Drive (north of Kailua-Kona).] Hawai‘i Island Chamber of Commerce, 808-935-7178. Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park, 985-6000, www.nps.gov/havo. County Parks, 808-961-8311, Department of Parks & Recreation, 25 Aupuni Street, Hilo, open 7:45-4:30, M-F, www.co.hawaii.hi.us. State Parks, 974-6200, Department of Land & Natural Resources, www.state.hi.us. [Illustration: Map—Hawai‘i Island] Hawai‘i Island is the youngest Hawaiian Island, at less than one-half million years old, and also the largest Hawaiian Island. The island of Hawai‘i is more than twice as big as the rest of the Hawaiian Islands combined, and more than four times as big as Maui (the second largest Hawaiian Island). The island of Hawai‘i is about 93 miles (150 km) long by 76 miles (122 km) wide, and still growing due to the active lava eruptions coming from Kīlauea Volcano. An ancient Hawaiian proverb states, “Ku ka‘apā ia Hawai‘i, he moku nui,” (“[It is well for] Hawai‘i to show activity; it is the largest of the islands”), meaning, “Hawai‘i should lead forth for she is the largest.”[cmxlix] With snow covered peaks, lava deserts, and lush rainforests, the island of Hawai‘i supports a great diversity of native ecosystems. Near the coast lava crackles and hisses as it flows into the sea, while snow tops the 13,796-foot (4,205-m) summit of Mauna Kea volcano, the highest spot not only in the Hawaiian Islands but in all of the Pacific Basin. The island of Hawai‘i was formed by six separate volcanoes, including five volcanoes above sea level: Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa, Kohala, Hualālai and Kīlauea Volcanoes. The sixth volcano, Mahukona, is submerged off the island’s northwest shore. Kīlauea Volcano is currently the most continuously active volcano on Earth, having covered more than 500 square miles (1,300 sq. km) with lava in the last 1,100 years. Kīlauea has erupted almost non-stop since 1983, adding more than 38 square miles (98 sq. km) of lava to the island of Hawai‘i. This action continues as the flank of Kīlauea Volcano erupts lava near Hawai‘i Island’s southeast coast, where molten earth flows into the sea adding to the island’s size and also creating new material for black sand beaches. The island of Hawai‘i’s agriculture products include macadamia nuts, Kona coffee, and papayas as well as diversified products (e.g., mushrooms) that supply the island’s fine restaurants. A large quantity of tropical flowers are also produced on Hawai‘i Island, including anthuriums and orchids. Another major export is beef. Hawai‘i Island’s two main airports are Kona International Airport and Hilo International Airport. The smaller Waimea Kohala Airport is used by private charters and commuter flights. Hilo is the county seat, with a population of about 144,000. Driving around the circumference of the island of Hawai‘i can be accomplished in about 222 miles (357 km), and has about 266 miles (428 km) of coastline. Annual Events on the Island of Hawai‘i ØJanuary Senior PGA Mastercard Championship ØMarch Hilo Orchid Society Annual Show and Sale ØMarch Big Island Marathon ØApril Merrie Monarch Festival ØJuly July 4th Parker Ranch Rodeo ØJune King Kamehameha I Day Celebration ØAugust Hawaiian International Billfish Tournament ØOctober Ironman Triathlon ØNovember Kona Coffee Cultural Festival
Hawai‘i Island Cultural / Historical Sites and Attractions Kailua-Kona Kailua Pier Ahu‘ena Heiau / Kamakahonu Moku‘aikaua Church Hulihe‘e Palace St. Michael’s Church South of Kailua-Kona Keauhou Kahalu‘u Beach St. Peter’s Catholic Church Ku‘uemanu Heiau Kapuanoni / King Kalākaua’s Summer Beach House Ke‘ekū Heiau Keauhou Bay—Birthplace of King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) Kealakekua Kona Historical Society Museum Kona Union Church Kealakekua Bay Captain Cook Monument Hikiau Heiau State Monument St. Benedict’s Catholic Church Amy B. H. Greenwell Ethnobotanical Gardens Kona Field System Pu‘uhonua o Hōnaunau National Historic Park Hale-o-keawe ‘Ale‘ale‘a Miloli‘i Manukā State Park and Natural Reserve Area Ka Lae (South Point) North of Kailua-Kona Honokōhau Harbor Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historical Park ‘Ai‘ōpio Beach Honokōhau Beach ‘Alula Beach Māmalahoa Trail (King’s Trail) Aimakapā Kaloko Fort Alexander Kahinihiniula (Queen’s Bath) Kailua-Kona to Kawaihae Kohala Coast Ka‘ūpūlehu ‘Anaeho‘omalu Bay Kalāhuipua‘a Fishponds Malama Trail Puakō Hokuloa Church Hāpuna Beach Hāpuna Beach State Park Pu‘ukoholā Heiau Mailekini Heiau Hale o Kapuni Heiau Pelekane Waimea (Kamuela) ‘Imiola Church W. M. Keck Observatory Office Waimea Visitor Center Kamuela Museum Parker Ranch Historic Homes, Museum, and Visitor Center Mānā Hale Pu‘uōpelu Pu‘u-o-Mahuka Heiau Lapakahi State Historical Park Mo‘okini Heiau Pōhaku-holehole-kānaka Kapa‘au and Hāwī Statue of King Kamehameha I Kalāhikiola Church Pololū Valley Lookout / Pololū Beach Waipi‘o Valley Hi‘ilawe Falls Waipi‘o Valley Overlook Kukuihale Mauna Kea Volcano Northeast Coast Waipi‘o to Hilo along the Hāmākua Coast Honoka‘a Kalopā State Recreation Area Laupāhoehoe Point / Onomea Drive Laupāhoehoe Train Museum and Visitor Center Honomū ‘Akaka Falls State Park ‘Akaka Falls Kahūnā Falls Hawai‘i Tropical Botanical Garden Pepe‘ekeo Scenic Route Hilo Banyan Drive Lili‘uokalani Gardens Kalākaua Park Lyman House Memorial Museum and Mission House Naha Stone and Pinao Stone Pacific Tsunami Museum Rainbow Falls State Park Pe‘epe Falls / Boiling Pots Nani Mau Gardens Mauna Loa Volcano Historic Eruptions Recent Activity Predicting Future Eruptions Mauna Loa Visitor Center Puna Pāhoa Lava Tree State Park Waha‘ula Heiau Punalu‘u Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park—Kīlauea Volcano Summit Calderas Chain of Craters Road Pu‘u Lo‘a Petroglyph Area Crater Rim Drive Kīlauea Iki Crater Kīpuka and Lava Trees Lava Tubes and Skylights Park Accommodations and Trails Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō Crater
Hawai‘i Island Cultural / Historical Sites and Attractions Kailua-Kona Kailua-Kona is located at the base of the 8,271-foot (2,521-meter) high Hualālai Volcano on the island of Hawai‘i’s Kona Coast. King Kamehameha ran his kingdom from Kailua from 1812 until his death in 1819. Today the Kona Coast provides great fishing, diving, and snorkeling opportunities. Boat charters depart from Kailua Pier as well as Honokōhau Harbor. Kailua-Kona hosts the Ironman Triathlon every October. The popular and extremely competitive event involves swimming 2.4 miles (3.9 km) in the ocean, biking for 112 miles (180 km), and then running 26 miles (42 km). Each year about 1,500 contestants begin the event at Kailua Pier. A seawall between Kailua Pier and Hulihe‘e Palace (see below) is a favorite local pole-and-line fishing spot.Kailua-Kona’s main street is Ali‘i Drive, which runs for 2 miles (3.2 km) along the coast. Sport-fishing in the Kailua-Kona region is world renown, including ‘ahi (yellowfin tuna) as well as a‘u, the Hawaiian word for fish in the family Istiophoridae, which includes spearfish, swordfish, and marlin. The most prized catch of all is the Pacific blue marlin, which may top 1,000 pounds (454 kg). A marlin weighing 1,805 pounds (819 kg) was caught off O‘ahu in 1970. Anglers congregate at the annual Hawaiian International Billfish Tournament every August. North Kona is known for its macadamia nuts while South Kona is a major coffee production area. Ahu‘ena Heiau / Kamakahonu Ahu‘ena Heiau on the north end of Kailua Bay, across from Kailua Pier, is an ancient luakini heiau, a sacred place of worship where human sacrifices were offered. The heiau was restored by King Kamehameha I, and was located near his royal residence, called Kamakahonu (“The turtle eye”[cml]), where he lived from 1812 until his death in 1819. Ahu‘ena Heiau was also the site of the breaking of the kapu by King Kamehameha I’s son, Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho, who took the throne on May 20, 1819. Within months of assuming the throne, and with the urging and support of his mother, Keōpūolanikauhiakama [Keōpūolani], and kuhina nui (premier) Ka‘ahumanu, King Kamehameha II(Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho) ate in public with the dowager queens, breaking the kapu (prohibition) against men and women eating together. When the defiant act brought no retribution from the gods, eating together was no longer kapu, and this began a process that eroded away at traditional Hawaiian religious beliefs and eventually led to the complete overturning of the traditional kapu system. Chief Kekuaokalani, the son of King Kamehameha I’s younger brother, rebelled against Liholiho’s abolishment of the eating kapu in favor of preserving traditional ways. Because of this he was killed in an 1819 battle at Kuamo‘o against the forces of Kalanimoku, which were supported by canoe-mounted American swivel guns (see Timeline: 1820, May 8). Terraced graves on the lava plain are a reminder of the estimated 300 warriors that died on the battlefield. Ahu‘ena Heiau is now part of the grounds of the King Kamehameha Kona Beach Hotel. A thatched structure on the site represents how the heiau may once have appeared, including ki‘i, carved statues of sacred images. On display in the lobby of the hotel are large marlin from the Hawaiian International Billfish Tournament, including a 1,062 pound (482 kg) fish caught in 1986, and a 1,166 pound (529 kg) marlin caught in 1993. The fish were weighed in at nearby Kailua Pier. Also on display at the hotel are many genuine Hawaiian artifacts and Hawaiian cultural exhibits, including musical instruments, and beautiful portraits of Hawaiian royalty, including a painting of King Kamehameha I by Herb Kane. Free historical tours (at 1:30 on weekdays) provide information about the lobby exhibits as well as the sacred sites located just outside the hotel. [Ahu‘ena Heiau, 808-329-2911; located behind King Kamehameha Kona Beach Hotel, 75-5660 Palani Road.] Moku‘aikaua Church Moku‘aikaua Church, with a steeple that rises to 112 feet (34 m), is located along the Kailua-Kona waterfront. Moku‘aikaua Church was originally a thatched structure, built in 1820, making it the first Christian church built in the Hawaiian Islands. Then in 1823 under the direction of Kuakini (also known as John Adams, the brother of Queen Ka‘ahumanu), four thousand people assisted in the construction of a lava rock church. The walls were held together by sand and coral lime mortar. On December 10, 1823, Moku‘aikaua Church was dedicated, with Queen Ka‘ahumanu in attendance. Unfortunately, an 1835 fire destroyed the church. Rebuilding began in 1836 using coral mortar and stones from an abandoned heiau. A steeple was also constructed. The rebuilding was completed in January of 1837, including an interior of native koa (Acacia koa). At the back of Moku‘aikaua Church is a model of the brig Thaddeus, the ship that brought the First Company of American missionaries to the Hawaiian Islands in 1820. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1820, March 21.) [Moku‘aikaua Church, 808-329-5179, 75-5713 Ali‘i Drive, Kailua-Kona, [0655, 2002, call Hulihe‘e Palace Just across Ali‘i Drive from Moku‘aikaua Church is Hulihe‘e Palace, which was built in 1838 and is now restored as a museum. The palace was built by Kuakini (John Adams), Governor of Hawai‘i (island) and brother of the late Queen Ka‘ahumanu. Hulihe‘e means “Turn flee.”[cmli] Hulihe‘e Palace was built of lava rock and coral mortar using the same construction as Moku‘aikaua Church, which was built by Kuakini one year earlier (see above). The construction Hulihe‘e Palace included the native woods of koa(Acacia koa) and ‘ōhi‘a lehua (Metrosideros species). Hulihe‘e Palace later served as a home for Princess Ruth Ke‘elikōlani (the great granddaughter of King Kamehameha I), and then became the summer palace of King Kalākaua, who renamed it Hikulani Hale (“Seventh ruler house”). This name referred to himself, the seventh leader of the monarchy that began with King Kamehameha I. Hulihe‘e Palace was later owned by Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana‘ole Pi‘ikoi, the nephew and adopted son of Queen Kapi‘olani. Prince Kūhiō had been named as heir presumptive to the throne by Queen Lili‘uokalani after she ascended to the throne in 1891. In 1885, King Kalākaua had Hulihe‘e Palace plastered over to give the building a more refined appearance. In 1927, The Daughters of Hawai‘i, dedicated to preserving the cultural legacy of the Hawaiian Islands, restored Hulihe‘e Palace and turned it into a museum. Hula is performed at Hulihe‘e Palace on the last Sunday of each month at 4 p.m. On display at Hulihe‘e Palace are many items of fine furniture as well as numerous Hawaiian artifacts, including the war spears of King Kamehameha I. The museum’s Palace Gift Shop sells books and gift items. [Hulihe‘e Palace, 808-329-1877, 75-5718 Ali‘i Drive, Kailua-Kona; open 9-4 M-F, 10-4 weekends.] St. Michael’s Church A thatched chapel on Ali‘i Drive represents Kona’s first Catholic Church, originally built in 1840. The thatched structure is next to the newer church, which was built in 1850. A coral grotto shrine on display in front of the church includes 2,500 coral heads. [St. Michael’s Catholic Church, 808-326-7771, 75-5769 Ali‘i Drive.] South of Kailua-Kona South of Kailua-Kona is Keauhou and numerous small towns—Honalo,[cmlii]Kainaliu, Kealakekua, Captain Cook, and Hōnaunau. Off the main road is Pu‘uhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park, as well as Ho‘okena (“To satisfy thirst”[cmliii]) and Miloli‘i, which means “Fine twist (as sennit cord),” possibly referring to “...an expert sennit twister who lived there.”[cmliv] Beyond Pu‘uhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park on the Māmalahoa Highway are Wai‘ōhinu (“Shiny water”[cmlv]), Nā‘ālehu (“The volcanic ashes”[cmlvi]) and Punalu‘u (“Coral dived for”[cmlvii]). The southernmost point on Hawai‘i Island and in all of the Hawaiian Islands is Ka Lae, also known as South Point. Keauhou Keauhou is located along the coast south of Kailua-Kona, beginning at Kahalu‘u Beach, which is protected by an ancient stone wall known as the Menehune Breakwater, which is said to have been built by the legendary ancient race of people known as menehune (See Menehune section, Chapter 3). Though the wall is battered by waves and time, it continues to create an ideal snorkeling area teeming with reef fish and other marine life. Kahalu‘u Beach provides excellent snorkeling opportunities and a black sand beach. St. Peter’s Catholic Churchis located on the north side of Kahalu‘u Bay. The small, blue-tin-roofed church is affectionately known as the “Little Blue Church,” and is the site of many weddings. It is also one of the most photographed churches in the Islands. Built in 1839,the blue-tin-roofed church was moved from White Sands Beach in 1912. Though Keauhou is now the site of hotels, condos, and a golf course, it was once a major Hawaiian settlement. Some historical and cultural sites still stand amidst the more modern structures. Located on the north side of St. Peter’s Catholic Church, Ku‘emanu Heiau was used by Hawaiian royalty as a place to pay respects to their gods before surfing the waves of Kahalu‘u Bay. Kapuanoni / King Kalākaua’s Summer Beach House Located just south of Kahalu‘u Beach is the Keauhou Beach Resort, where several historical sites may be seen. On the north side of the hotel are the ruins of Kapuanoni, a fishing heiau (sacred place of worship). Just inland is King Kalākaua’s summer beach house (now reconstructed), located next to a spring-fed pond once used by Hawaiian royalty. Ke‘ekū Heiau. Ke‘ekū Heiau is located on the south side of Keauhou Beach Resort. Also to the south of the hotel is a tidepool area where one may see a variety of marine life including sea urchins and reef fish (low tide is best). Also exposed at low tide are lava rocks etched with petroglpyphs. These petroglyphs are located just off the north end of the closed Kona Lagoon Hotel, and may be seen when the water recedes (low tide). [Keauhou Beach Resort, 800-922-7866, 78-6740 Ali‘i Drive, Kailua-Kona.] Keauhou Bay—Birthplace of King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) Keauhou Bay provides safe harbor for a couple of dozen small boats and is a popular launching point for outrigger canoe paddlers. A stone at the site marks the location as the birthplace of King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli). [Keauhou Bay, Directions: From Ali‘i Drive, turn right on Kamehameha III Road.] Kealakekua The Kona Historical Society Museum is located in Kealakekua in the old Greenwell Store, a stone building constructed in 1875 by Henry N. Greenwell. The Museum exhibits ancient Hawaiian artifacts as well as memorabilia relating to the island’s history of cattle ranching and coffee plantations. The homestead was first established in 1850, eventually including a cattle ranch, store, post office, and sheep station. The Kona Historical Society offers walking tours of local areas. Also in Kealakekua is the Kona Union Church, constructed of lava rock in 1854. Kealakekua means “Pathway [of] the God,”[cmlviii] referring to a string of heiau (sacred places of worship), perhaps 40 or more, that once stretched from Kailua Kona to Kealakekua. [Kona Historical Society Museum, 808-323-3222, 81-6551 Māmalahoa Highway (Hwy. 11), 1 mile (1.6 km) south of Kealakekua town, www.konahistorical.org; open 9-3 Mon.-Fri.] Kealakekua Bay Kealakekua Bay, now a marine life preserve, is where Captain Cook was killed in 1779. Cook’s death occurred on the north end of Kealakekua Bay, and is now marked by the Captain Cook Monument, a white obelisk monument that stands 27 feet (8.2 m) tall. The memorial is reached by Nāpō‘opo‘o Rd., about 4 miles (6.4 km) south of the town of Captain Cook. On February 4, 1779, Cook left Kealakekua Bay to survey the other Hawaiian Islands before heading off again on his explorations. As Cook and his crew departed, the foremast of the HMS Resolution broke, and Cook returned to Kealakekua Bay. Various differing accounts have been given detailing how Captain Cook died, but the story is generally told as follows: One of Cook’s smaller boats (a cutter) was stolen during the night of February 13. In the morning Cook’s men blockaded the harbor so no one could escape. Cook went ashore with nine of his men to retrieve the boat. Their plan was to bring Kalani‘ōpu‘u (the ruler of the island of Hawai‘i) back to the ship, and then hold him captive until the stolen boat was returned. Cook and his men awakened the chief and compelled him to come to the ship, and then they proceeded toward shore. Meanwhile, a canoe attempted to pass the harbor blockade, and members of Cook’s crew fired on the natives, killing a chief. A large crowd gathered nearshore when the natives learned that one of their chiefs had been killed. Just then Cook and his men, with Kalani‘ōpu‘u, reached shore to go out to the ship. In an encounter with the angry natives, Cook and his men fired upon the group. As they reloaded they were attacked. Cook yelled for his men to “Take to the boats!,” but it was too late. Cook was stabbed in the neck and killed, and floated face down in the water. At least four of Cook’s men were also killed. Accounts of this event as well as the events of the following days vary. See CaptainCook section in Chapter 3 for more information. [Kealakekua Bay, end of Nāpō‘opo‘o Road.] Hikiau Heiau State Monument When Nāpō‘opo‘o Road reaches the ocean, Nāpō‘opo Beach Park is to the right. This is also the location of Hikiau Heiau, now designated as a State Monument. Hikiau Heiau was a luakini (temple where human sacrifices were performed), and was also the place where Captain Cook was brought when he first arrived at Kealakekua in 1779. Kāhuna (native priests) put sacred red kapa (tapa) barkcloth on Cook and offered sacred chants. Many uncertainties remain about how the native people regarded Captain Cook (e.g., as the god Lono) and why particular honors were bestowed upon him. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1779, Jan. 17.) Hikiau means “Moving current,”[cmlix]referring to the tumultuous ocean at the nearby surfing site. [Hikiau Heiau, end of Nāpō‘opo‘o Road, Kealakekua Bay.] St. Benedict’s Catholic Church St. Benedict’s Catholic Church was once located on the shore of Kealakekua Bay near Pu‘uhonua o Hōnaunau, the sacred place of refuge (see below). Around 1900 the church was moved 2 miles (3.2 km) to its present location. Known as “the painted church,” St. Benedict’s includes a Gothic Revival steeple built by the Belgian-born Father John Berchmans Velghe, who came to the Hawaiian Islands in 1899. Velghe’s paintings on the church walls were intended to help the native Hawaiians learn the Bible. The wall directly behind the alter is modeled after the Gothic cathedral in Burgos, Spain. Hawaiian hymns are still sung at the Sunday services. [St. Benedict’s Catholic Church, 808-328-2227, 84-5140 Painted Church Road, Hōnaunau. Directions: From Highway 160; go ¼ mile (.4 km) north at Mile Marker 1.] Amy B. H. Greenwell Ethnobotanical Gardens This 15-acre (6-ha) ethnobotanical garden near Captain Cook on the island of Hawai‘i includes examples of coastal habitat as well as lowland dry forest and upland forest habitats as Hawaiians used them in ancient times. The Garden includes an archaeological remnant of an ancient Kona Field System, covering about 5 acres (2 ha). The Garden’s collection of about 250 different native and Polynesian-introduced plants includes many food and fiber crops such as kalo (Colocasia esculenta, taro), mai‘a (Musa species, banana), ‘ulu (Artocarpus altilis, breadfruit), ‘uala(Ipomoea batatas, sweet potatoes), uhi (Dioscorea alata, yam), kō (Saccharum officinarum, sugarcane), ‘awa (Piper methysticum, kava), ‘ōhi‘a ‘ai (Eugenia malaccense, mountain apple) and wauke (Broussonetia papyrifera, paper mulberry). (See Native andPolynesian-Introduced Plants sections, Chapters 8 and 9, for more information about the plants mentioned above.) [Amy B. H. Greenwell Ethnobotanical Gardens, 808-323-3318, 82-6188 Māmalahoa Highway (Hwy. 19), Captain Cook, www.bishopmuseum.org/greenwell, open M-F, 8:30-5.] [Photograph: Amy B. H. Greenwell Ethnobotanical Garden] Pu‘uhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park Located along the South Kona coastline on Hōnaunau Bay is Pu‘uhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park. The Historical Park encompasses 180 acres (73 ha), including the royal grounds, a heiau (sacred place of worship), and a pu‘uhonua (place of refuge) located on the westernmost point of the site. The ancient heiau and pu‘uhonua have been reconstructed, along with ki‘i, carved images of ancient gods. Within the Historical Park is a 10-foot (3-m) high, 1,000-foot (305-m) long, 17-foot (5.2-m) thick stone wall thought to be built without mortar around A.D. 1550, and is now known as the “Great Wall.” The wall was apparently constructed long after the heiau was constructed (possibly around A.D. 1200 or earlier). The royal grounds are located on the east side of the wall, while the pu‘uhonua (place of refuge) is located on the west side of the wall. A self-guided walk is detailed in the park brochure, and includes other nearby heiau as well as a petroglyph site, loko ‘ia (fishpond), and lava tree molds. Located on the coastal point is the reconstructed heaiu (sacred place of worship) called Hale-o-Keawe (“House of Keawe”[cmlx]). Constructed by Chief Keawe around 1650, the sacred site was formerly the repository of the bones of 23 chiefs. These bones were said to have held mana (spiritual power), which was imparted to those that came near and also brought stronger protection to the pu‘uhonua, where those who broke the kapu could go to avoid being put to death. Once located near the center of the site was a heiau known as ‘Āle‘ale‘a (“Light [of] joy”[cmlxi]). After Hale-o-Keawe was constructed, ‘Āle‘ale‘a was used for games and sporting events. [Pu‘uhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park, 808-328-2288; 20 miles (32 km) south of Kailua-Kona, www.nps.gov, Mon.-Thurs., 6 a.m.-8 p.m., Fri.-Sun., 6 a.m.-11 p.m.; Visitor Center open 8-4:30 daily.] Miloli‘i The remote Hawaiian fishing area known as Miloli‘i is located 5 miles (8 km) off of Highway 11 (Hawai‘i Belt Road) south of Hōnaunau. Manukā State Park and Natural Reserve Area Manukā Natural Reserve Area is an 8-acre (3.2-ha) arboretum, has a picnic area as well as a 2-mile (3.2 km) interpretive nature trail through native forest and past a pit crater. This land of lava is the site of buried villages. [Manukā State Park and Natural Reserve Area, 808-974-6200, Highway 11, north of Mile Marker 81; open daily 7-7.] Ka Lae (South Point) Ka Lae, also known as South Point, is the southernmost location on the island of Hawai‘i and also the southernmost point in the United States. Ka Lae means “The Point.”[cmlxii] Some old structures on the coast at South Point were used around the turn of the century to lower cattle and produce onto ships. Also seen on the cliffs are canoe-mooring holes thought to be carved more than 1,000 years ago. [Ka Lae (South Point), Directions: take Māmalahoa Highway (Hwy. 11) to just past Mile Marker 70, turn south on South Point Road, drive 12 miles (19 km).] Mahana Beach (Green Sand Beach) Mahana Beach is reached by a 2¼ mile (3.6 km) hike that begins near South Point at the Kaulana Boat Launch. The beach’s green sand comes from a vein of the semi-precious gem mineral olivine in a nearby littoral cone that the waves slowly pulverize into sand. Mahana’s green sand is mixed with black sand. The occasional olivine nugget is also found, particularly at the next cove over, which is accessed from the northeast end of Mahana. North of Kailua-Kona Honokōhau Harbor At Honokōhau Harbor, built in 1970, you will see fishermen weighing in their catches of ‘ahi (yellowfin tuna) and a‘u (marlin). From 11:30-3:30 is generally the best time to see the big fish come in. The harbor complex includes a restaurant, bar, and fish market. Honokōhau means “Bay drawing dew.”[cmlxiii] [Honokōhau Harbor, 2 miles (3.2 m) northwest of Kailua-Kona on Queen Ka‘ahumanu Highway (Hwy. 19).] Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historical Park Located near Honokōhau Harbor, the Historic Park encompasses the oceanfront land between Honokōhau Harbor and Kaloko. Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historical Park was designated a National Park in 1978, and spans over an area of 1,160 acres (469 ha), including several important cultural sites. Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historic Park also includes three beaches. Just north of Honokōhau Harbor is‘Ai‘ōpio Beach, with a protected area that is great for kids. ‘Ai‘ōpio means “Youth eating.”[cmlxiv] Honokōhau Beach, north of Honokōhau Harbor, is about ¾-mile (1.2 km) long with large grain sand (a mix of shells, lava, and white coral), and includes the remains of ancient loko ‘ia (fishponds). The beach is reached by taking Queen Ka‘ahumanu Highway (Hwy. 19) to the Honokōhau Harbor road, turning right and going ¼ mile (.4 km) to the trail that begins at the gap in the lava wall. ‘Alula Beach is located beyond the lava to the left of the entrance to Honokōhau Harbor (at the south end of the harbor). Within Kaloko-Honokōhau is an ancient heiau (sacred place of worship), and an ancient stone footpath known asMāmalahoa Trail, or King’s Trail. About 1 mile (1.6 km) of the trail has been restored. Also located within the park are ancient burial caves. Some say King Kamehameha I was secretly buried here. Fishponds at Kaloko-Honokōhau include Aimakapā (to the south) and Kaloko (to the north). Also located at Kaloko-Honokōhau are petroglyph sites as well as an ancient site once used for he‘e hōlua (hōlua sledding), where papa hōlua (wooden sleds) were used to slide down a hillside or a ramp slide constructed of stone and lined with pili grass (Heteropogon contortus, twisted beardgrass) or tassels of kō (Saccharum officinarum, sugarcane). Located in the middle of a lava flow (just inland from a spot about 200 yards (183 m) from the north end of Honokōhau Beach) is Kahinihiniula (Queen’s Bath), a brackish water lava pool that is about 20 by 15 feet (6 by 49 m). The pond is spring fed and seemingly disconnected from the ocean, yet its water level is affected by the ocean tide, and the water in the pool is brackish. Twelve large rock piles surround the pool. [Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historic Park, 808-329-6881, www.nps.gov, open 8-3:30. The access road to the park is located north of Kailua-Kona, and south of the airport, off Ka‘ahumanu Highway (Hwy. 19) between Mile Markers 96 and 97, or from Honokōhau Harbor.] Kailua-Kona to Kawaihae This 33-mile (53-km) route north of Kailua-Kona, along the Queen Ka‘ahumanu Highway (Hwy. 19) is known as the Kohala Coast. This stretch of road goes through a hot and dry moonscape of lava flows of many different shapes, textures, and colors. Also along the way are several world-class resorts, including: The Four Seasons Resort Hualālai; Kona Village Resort; Royal Waikaloan; Hilton Waikōloa Village; Waikōloa Resort; Mauna Lani Resort; Hāpuna Beach Prince Hotel; and Mauna Kea Beach Resort Amidst these resorts are numerous important historical, cultural, and archaeological sites. TheKona Village Resort, built on the site of the ancient fishing village at Ka‘ūpūlehu also has a boardwalk from which ancient petroglyphs may be viewed. Petroglyphs can also be seen on the old King’s Trail at Waikōloa Resort on ‘Anaeho‘omalu Bay, the site of ancient heiau and houses as well as fishponds. Locally known as A-Bay, ‘Anaeho‘omalu Bay is protected by an offshore reef that makes the waters safe for swimming unless the surf is exceptionally large. The area around the Mauna Lani Resort includes numerous archaeological sites as well the restored Kalāhuipua‘a Fishponds, just south of the hotel. The loko i‘a (fishponds) are connected to the ocean through mākāhā (sluice gates), and stocked withawa (Chanos chanos, milkfish). Kalāhuipua‘a means “The family [of] pigs.”[cmlxv] The Malama Trail leads 1.4 miles (2.3 km) north of the Mauna Lani Resort to Puakō, the site of more than 3,000 petroglyphs. Also at Puakō is Hokuloa Church, constructed in 1859 by missionary Rev. Lorenzo Lyons. [King’s Shops, 808-886-8811 (guided tours of King’s Trail).] [Hokuloa Church, 808-883-8295, Puakō Beach Drive.] Hāpuna Beach Hāpuna is the site of a beautiful white sand beach, which is located near the Hāpuna Prince Hotel, about 30 miles (48 km) north of Kailua-Kona. Hāpuna Beach is about ½-mile (.8-m) long and about 200 feet (61 m) wide (during the summer). Part of the 61-acre (25 ha) Hāpuna Beach State Park, Hapunā Beach is one of the most popular beaches on the island of Hawai‘i. Voted top in the nation by Condé Nast Travel Magazine, Hāpuna is a crescent beach with rocks at each end. It’s a great swimming and snorkeling beach in the summer when the water is generally calm. During the winter, however, rough surf and strong currents create dangerous ocean conditions. Restrooms are available, as well as picnic pavilions. Hāpuna is a popular body boarding beach, and body boards and snorkeling gear are available for rent. North of the Hāpuna Beach is a small cove that is often calmer than the main beach. A-frame cabins are available for rent at Hāpuna. [Hāpuna Beach, 808-974-6200; located off Queen Ka‘ahumanu Highway (Hawai‘i 19), near Mile Marker 69, 12 miles (19.3 km) north of Waikōloa, between Mauna Lani Resort and Mauna Ke‘a Beach.] Pu‘ukoholā Heiau Pu‘ukoholā Heiau overlooks the Pacific Ocean at Kawaihae about 30 miles (48 km) north of Kailua-Kona, and north of Hāpuna. The rising warrior Kamehameha constructed Pu‘ukoholā Heiau, a luakini (sacrificial temple), as a result of a 1790 prophecy that it would allow him to unite all of the Islands under his rule (see Chapter 11, Timeline: 1775). Kamehameha had thousands of his men work to construct the 224-foot (68-m) long, 100-foot (30-m) high structure. A chain of people 20 miles (32 km) long passed stones from hand-to-hand all the way to the site. The stones were laid by hand, without mortar. With construction of Pu‘ukoholā Heiau at Kawaihae completed in 1791, Kamehameha asked Keōuakū‘ahu‘ula (chief of the island of Hawai‘i Island’s Puna and Ka‘ū districts) to attend the dedication, saying his presence was important if there was to be peace between the rivals. Keōuakū‘ahu‘ula and 26 of his chiefs and friends, including the highest chiefs of Ka‘ū, arrived at Kawaihae Bay in two large canoes Keōuakū‘ahu‘ula was in one of the canoes, and in the other canoe was a young chief named Pauli Ka‘ōleiokū, the son of Kamehameha (his first child) and Kānekapōlei (who was also the mother of Keōuakuahu‘ula with Kalani‘ōpu‘u). Greeting Keōuakū‘ahu‘ula and his men were Kamehameha’s war canoes arranged in a great crescent shape surrounding Kawaihae Bay to prevent Keōuakū‘ahu‘ula’s escape. Kamehameha’s men onshore had muskets and cannons. Keōuakū‘ahu‘ula and many of his chiefs and other members of his group were killed. [Note: Historical accounts of this event (by prominent early historians) differ considerably on various points. See Appendix 2: Writings of Ancient Hawaiian History] After the initial attack on Keōuakū‘ahu‘ula, Kamehameha reportedly prevented his men from attacking the people in the other canoe (including Kamehameha’s son). The bodies of the killed chiefs (including Keōuakū‘ahu‘ula) were then sacrificed on the altar of the luakini heiau atop the hill at Pu‘ukoholā. With his rival, Keōuakū‘ahu‘ula, dead, Kamehameha controlled the island of Hawai‘i. Today the heiau’s impressive stone foundation remains, but the site was once adorned with a thatched structure as well as ki‘i (sacred carved images). Also found at the Pu‘ukoholā Heiau National Historic Site are the ruins of Mailekini Heiau, thought to have been constructed around 1550, and used by King Kamehameha‘s ancestors. King Kamehameha used the heiau as a fort. Hale o KapuniHeiau, dedicated to a shark god, is now submerged offshore. A visitor center proves information about the three heiau. Pu‘ukoholā means “Whale hill.”[cmlxvi] The park encompasses 77 acres (31 ha). Nearby is Pelekane, where the royal court was located. Across the highway is the homestead of John Young(‘Olohana), military advisor and ally of King Kamehameha. John Young later became Governor of Hawai‘i Island. Note: Pu‘ukoholā means “Whale hill”[cmlxvii] according to Pūku‘i, but was later explained by Frazier to instead be spelled Pu‘ukohola (no macron), and meaning “built as the house of the god, a pu‘u [desire] for death and not for life. The death which was to be bound securely within this heiau was in the lagoon (kai kohola) and not in the deep sea nor on land.”[cmlxviii] [Pu‘ukoholā National Historic Site, 808-882-7218, Akoni Pule Highway (Hwy. 270), 1 mile (1.6 km) south of Kawaihae, www.nps.gov; open 7:30-4 daily.] Waimea (Kamuela) In the Kohala Mountain foothills, the town of Waimea (also called Kamuela) sits at an elevation of about 2,670 feet (814 m). The Waimea-Kohala region is paniolo country, but also includes high-tech science enterprises, fancy restaurants, and many cultural sites.In recent years many homes have been built in the area’s new subdivisions located on former ranch land. Kamuela is Hawaiian for Samuel, and is said by some to refer to Samuel Spencer, a former postmaster. The more common belief, however, is that Kamuela refers to Samuel Parker. Surrounding the town is the historic Parker Ranch, one of the nation’s largest and oldest ranches. Headquartered in Waimea, Parker Ranch is the largest ranch in the Hawaiian Islands and also larger than any other single-owned private ranch in the United States. The ranch covers nearly 10% of the island of Hawai‘i (see below). Waimea’s ‘Imiola Church was established by Father Lyons. The church’s interior is constructed using native koa(Acaciakoa), and calabashes are suspended from the ceiling. ‘Imiola Church was established in 1832 and then rebuilt in 1837. ‘Imiola means “Seek salvation.”[cmlxix] Waimea is also home to many international astronomers who work at the observatories atop Mauna Kea (see Mauna Kea Astronomy, Chapter 4). Some exhibits and a short video may be seen at the W. M. Keck Observatory Office in the town center. The Waimea Visitor Center is located in the historic Lindsey House, a ranch cabin built in 1909 and now restored. Operated by the Waimea Preservation Association, the visitor center provides information about historic and cultural sites of the Kohala region. [‘Imiola Church, Church Lane, Waimea, 808-855-4987.] [W. M. Keck Observatory Office, 8-4:30, M-F.] [Waimea Visitor Center, 65-1291 Kawaihae Road, Waimea, www.northhawaii.net, 808-885-6707; open 9:30-4:30 Mon.-Sat.] Kamuela Museum [Kamuela Museum, 808-885-4724, Kawaihae-Kohala Junction, Highways 19 and 250, Kamuela, open 8-5 daily.] Parker Ranch Historic Homes, Museum, and Visitor Center Parker Ranch Museum includes exhibits dedicated to the life of John Palmer Parker and his descendants. John Palmer Parker first saw the Hawaiian Islands aboard a fur trading ship. After jumping ship and staying in the Hawaiian Islands for a while, Parker traveled to China during the War of 1812. Parker returned to the Hawaiian Islands, arriving in Waimea on Hawai‘i Island in 1815 to kill wild cattle for King Kamehameha I. The animals had proliferated in Waimea due to a kapu (prohibition) placed upon them with the intention of letting the animals multiply after they were brought to the island by George Vancouver in 1792 (see Chapter 11, Timeline: 1792, March 5). Parker was contracted to shoot cattle for their meat, which was salted and sold to visiting ships. The hides were also exported. John Palmer Parker later claimed to have shot well more than 1,000 cattle. Parker was later a supervisor of loko i‘a (fishponds) for King Kamehameha I. Parker married Kipikane, daughter of a cousin of Kānekapōlei, the wife of Kalani‘ōpu‘u. Parker’s wife took the Christian name Rachel, and gave birth to two sons and a daughter. John Palmer Parker began building up his own cattle herd. He also built a sawmill and acquired thousands of acres of grazing land. John Palmer Parker’s son, John Palmer Parker II, continued to increase the size of the ranch. In 1837, John Palmer Parker II began a cattle ranch on the northern part of the island of Hawai‘i. Today Parker Ranch has more than 30,000 head of cattle (Angus and Charolais), with an annual production of more than 15 million pounds (6.8 million kg) of beef. The ranch also has about 250 horses and 850 miles (1,369 km) of fence. The Parker Ranch Museum, located in the Visitor Center, includes various memorabilia relating to the Parker family (e.g., portraits) as well as the cattle ranch (e.g., saddles, antique ranching tools, etc.). Also on display are various ancient Hawaiian artifacts. A 45-minute horse-drawn wagon tour leaves from the Visitor Center. Tickets to visit Parker Ranch Historic Homes may be purchased at Parker Ranch Museum. Located just south of Waimea, the homes include a recreation of John Palmer Parker’s original 1840s home, called Mānā Hale (“House of the spirit”) with its original koa interior. The house was once the center of ranch operations, and was also used extensively for entertaining guests by the John Palmer Parker’s grandson, Samuel Parker, and his wife Panana. Another historic home available for tours is located on a scenic hill called Pu‘ōpelu. Originally purchased by John Palmer Parker II, Pu‘ōpelu was also the residence of Richard Smart, a 6th generation Parker who collected European art (e.g., Renoir, Degas) as well as antique vases from China, and other fine art (one of the Hawaiian Islands’ most prominent private art collections). Visitors to the homes are also shown the grounds, which include well-manicured gardens. Parker Ranch also offers Hawaiian craft demonstrations, horseback riding, wagon rides, and hot air ballooning. [Parker Ranch Historic Homes, Museum, and Visitor Center, 808-885-7655, www.parkerranch.com; Museum open 9-5 Mon.-Sat. Directions: Turnoff on Māmalahoa Highway (Hwy. 190), ¾-mile (1.2 km) south of Highway 19. Parker Ranch Historic Homes, 808-885-5433, Hwy. 190, Kamuela. Home tours are offered from 10-5 daily.] Lapakahi State Historical Park Lapakahi State Historical Park is the site of an ancient Hawaiian fishing village called Koai‘e, which was inhabited as long as 600 years ago. The self-guided walking tour is about 1 mile (1.6 km) long and includes interpretive exhibits about traditional practices (e.g., fishing, salt gathering, native plant propagation). [Lapakahi State Historical Park, 808-974-6200, makai (ocean side) of Akoni Pule Highway (Hwy. 270), North Kohala, 12 miles (19 km) north of Kawaihae, North Kohala, 808-882-6207, open 8-4, daily.]
Mo‘okini Heiau On the northern point of the island of Hawai‘i is the heiau known as Mo‘okini (“Many lineages”[cmlxx]), with walls that are about 259 feet (79 m) long by 125 feet (38 m) wide, and up to 25 feet (7.6 m) high and 10 feet (3 m) thick. Mo‘okini Heiau is thought to have been built as early as A.D. 480 with lava rocks that were passed along a chain of people stretching over 9 miles (14.5 km) along the coast from Niuli‘i. An altar at the northern end of the heiau is said to have been added around the 12th century by a Tahitian high priest (kahuna) by the name of Pā‘ao, who introduced the practice of human sacrifice to the Hawaiian Islands. According to tradition, sometime before the year A.D. 1200, Pā‘ao founded the high priest line known as kahuna nui. Pā‘ao returned to Tahiti and brought back a chief named Pili, who ruled the island of Hawai‘i and sired the royal line leading to King Kamehameha I, beginning a 700-year dynasty. Pā‘ao also introduced the war god Kūkā‘ilimoku, and the goddess of fire and volcanoes, Pele. Pā‘ao initiated the social order that separated ali‘i (royalty), kāhuna (priests and experts in a given profession), maka‘āinana (commoners who were mostly farmers), and the kauā (or kauwā) class, who were the lowest outcast members. Place Names of Hawaii(1974) states, ”Stones near here [Mo‘okini Heiau] were called Pā‘ao’s canoe, paddles, and fishhooks, and the fields he cultivated were called nā mau‘u o Pā‘ao (Pā‘ao’s grasses) and left untouched for fear of storms. A stone east of the heiau was called Pōhaku-holehole-kānaka (stone [for] stripping human [flesh]).[cmlxxi] After the sacrificial victims had their flesh removed, “...the bones were made into fishhooks and other objects.”[cmlxxii] Mo‘okini Heiau was dedicated to the war god Kūkā‘ilimoku, and became a luakini, where human sacrifices were performed. Before the arrival of Pā‘ao the Hawaiians had built various heiau, but Pā‘ao constructed the first luakini (temple of human sacrifice). This luakini was called Waha‘ula (“Red Mouth”[cmlxxiii]), a seacoast heiau built in the 13thcentury at Puna on Hawai‘i Island. (See Waha‘ula Heiau in Puna section below.) [Mo‘okini Heiau & Kamehameha ‘Akahi ‘Aina Hānau, 808-974-6200.] Directions: From Mile Marker 20 on Akoni Pule Highway (Hwy. 270), near Hāwī, at the ‘Upolu Airport sign, go north 1¾ miles (2.8 km) to ‘Upolu Airport and turn left (parallel to coast). Go 1½ miles (2.4 km) to fork in road and go left. This last part of the road may require a four-wheel drive vehicle if it has been raining. Park near the gate and walk to Mo‘okini Heiau (about a five minute walk). Kapa‘au and Hāwī Back in the days when sugar plantations were thriving in the Hawaiian Islands, Kapa‘au and Hāwī were bustling plantation towns with bustling saloons, theaters, hotels, and a railroad. Many of the town’s old structures are now restored, and house various gift shops and restaurants. One of Kapa‘au’s main attractions is the Statue of King Kamehameha in front of the North Kohala Civic Center not far from where the future ruler of the Hawaiian Kingdom was born. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1753.) This statue of King Kamehameha at Kapa‘au is the original 9-ton (8-mton) statue cast by American sculptor Thomas Gould in Italy in 1883 (based on an early engraving). It was lost in transport to the Hawaiian Islands, but later found in the Falkland Islands soon after a duplicate statue arrived in Honolulu. The King Kamehameha I statue is about 8½ feet (2.6 m) tall, showing the warrior king holding an ihe (spear), and wearing a mahiole (feather-crested helmet). He is also wearing an ‘ahu ‘ula (royal feather cloak) a malo (loin cloth), and kāma‘a‘ie (braided sandals). The statue is said to represent King Kamehameha I at the age of about 45. The duplicate statue now stands in front of O‘ahu’s Ali‘iōlani Hale, the judiciary building opposite ‘Iolani Palace. The O‘ahu King Kamehameha I statue was unveiled in 1883 as part of King Kalākaua’s coronation ceremony at ‘Iolani Palace. (See Statue of King Kamehameha I in O‘ahu section, Chapter 2.) Kapa‘au’s Kalāhikiola Church was constructed in 1855 by Elias and Ellen Bond, Protestant missionaries who came to Kohala in 1841. The church was damaged by a 1973 earthquake but later restored. Pololū Valley Lookout / Pololū Beach Pololū Valley Lookout is located at the end of Akoni Pule Highway (Hwy. 270) on Hawai‘i Island’s northwest coast. The view from above looks over Pololū Beach about 400 feet (122 m) below, where the shoreline is pounded by waves. Pololū is accessible only by kayak, or by descending a steep trail on foot or mule. The trail takes about 20 minutes to walk, and a good viewing spot is located about half way down. Black lava worn away from the river bed is responsible for the black sands of Pololū Beach, including sand dunes up to 100 feet (30 m) high (mostly grown over). Due to large waves and strong currents. Pololū is not a recommended swimming beach. A trail on the opposite side of Pololū Valley leads up and over to the next valley called Honokāne (“Kāne’s Bay”[cmlxxiv]). Pololū Valley was once well-populated by Hawaiians. The waterworn stones of Pololū were highly valued for use in Hawaiian construction projects, including King Kamehameha’s construction of the infamous Pu‘ukoholā Heiau at Kawaihae, 25 miles (40 km) away. [Pololū Valley, end of Akoni Pule Highway (Hwy. 270), east of Kapa‘au.] Waipi‘o Valley In ancient days Waipi‘o Valley was the home of Hawaiian ali‘i (royalty). Today Waipi‘o Valley is home to probably less than 100 residents, but each day many visitors descend the extremely steep 4-wheel-drive-only road down the 2000-foot (610-m) cliffs into the valley. Walking down the road into the valley is also an option, but be prepared for a hardy hike back up. Waipi‘o Valley is about 1 mile (1.6 km) wide by 5 miles (8 km) deep, culminating at the island of Hawai‘i’s tallest waterfall, Hi‘ilawe Falls, which drops more than 1,200 feet (366 m) down the Kohala Mountains. Atop the hill above Waipi‘o Valley, at the beginning of the road down, is the Waipi‘o Valley Overlook.The Overlook provides a stunning view into the steep-walled valley that is the first of seven amphitheater valleys of the Kohala Mountains. A shuttle tour of Waipi‘o Valley is also available. [Waip‘o Valley, Hāmākua Coast Highway (Hwy. 240), 8 miles (12.9 km) northwest of Honoka‘a.] Kukuihaele The tiny town of Kukuihaele is located on a short loop road off Highway 240, less than 1 mile (1.6 km) from the Waip‘o Valley Overlook. Kukuihaele means “Traveling light,” and it was said to be the home of “...a healing god, Ka-maka-nui-‘aha‘ilono (the great eye messenger).”[cmlxxv] The town of Kukuihaele includes the Last Chance Store (open Mon.-Sat., 9-5), and Waipi‘o Valley Artworks (open 8-5, daily). Mauna Kea Volcano Mauna Kea Volcano is dormant, but not extinct. Just 3,000 to 4,500 years ago, Mauna Kea’s most recent eruptions formed some of the volcanic cinder cones near the summit. The summit is also home to rare plants and several native insect species, including a tiny, wingless predator known as the wēkiu bug (Nysius wekiuicola). Wēkiu means “Summit,” or “Peak.”[cmlxxvi] The wēkiu bug has dark coloration to absorb heat, and also has an antifreeze substance in its blood that allows it to withstand the freezing temperatures. The wēkiu is about ¼-inch (6 mm) long, and feeds on insects blown up on the winds from lower habitats, first injecting the prey with digestive enzymes. The population of the wēkiu rises when there is lots of snow. Mauna Kea’s summit is a sacred place in Hawaiian culture. The summit contains petroglyphs, religious shrines, burial sites, and an adze quarry that is the largest in Polynesia. Also at Mauna Kea’s summit area is Pu‘u Poli‘ahu cinder cone, home to Poli‘ahu, the Hawaiian snow goddess of Mauna Kea. An ancient proverb states, “Poli‘ahu, ka wahine kapa hau anu o Mauna Kea” (“Poli‘ahu, the woman who wears the snow mantle of Mauna Kea.”)[cmlxxvii] Some topographical features on the summit of Mauna Kea are the result of glacial events that coincided with the advancing and retreating of glaciers on Earth’s continents during the last 200,000 years. Just below Mauna Kea’s summit, at 13,020 feet (3,968 m), is a cold and shallow lake called Lake Wai‘au (“Swirling water”[cmlxxviii]), one of the world’s highest lakes. Despite its fiery origin, Mauna Kea’s summit is now a frigid place, typically around 60º Fahrenheit in spring and summer, but often below freezing in the winter when it’s frequently wreathed in snow. The Hawaiian meaning of Mauna Kea is “white mountain,”[cmlxxix] reflecting the fact that Mauna Kea may see blizzard-like conditions about six times per year, and may see snow any month of the year. Snowdrifts sometimes build to 15 feet (4.6 m) high. The summits of Mauna Kea Volcano and Mauna Loa Volcano both receive an average 3 to 6 inches (7.5 to 15 cm) of snow per year. The summit area of Maui’s Haleakalā volcano only receives about half as much snow. Mauna Kea’s summit is the highest peak in the Pacific Basin, at 13,796 feet (4,205 m) above sea level. Mauna Loa is technically “bigger” (more overall mass) than Mauna Kea. However, Mauna Kea is the tallest mountain on Earth if measured from base to summit, rising more than 6.3 miles (10.2 km) from the seafloor. (See Mauna Kea Astronomy, Chapter 4.) Northeast Coast Waipi‘o to Hilo along the Hāmākua Coast The 45-mile (72-km) drive from Waipi‘o Valley to Hilo along Hawai‘i Belt Road (Hwy. 19), also known as the Hilo-Hāmakua Heritage Coast, is one of the most beautiful scenic drives in the Hawaiian Islands. Highway 19 traverses Mauna Kea’s wet windward slopes and includes several cantilevered bridges spanning deep ravines. The coastal route includes many places to stop for stunning ocean views, shoreline adventures, major and minor waterfalls, and an array of interesting shops and restaurants. Much of this corridor is former sugarcane land now planted with macadamia nut trees and a whole array of diversified agricultural products. Towns along the route include Honoka‘a, Pa‘auilo, and Honomū. Honoka‘a Honoka‘a is the largest town along the Hāmākua Coast, though it is still a small town with a population of only about 2,000. Honoka‘a’s main street, Māmane Street (Highway 240), is lined with 1920s era wooden buildings that hearken to bygone days. These buildings house various antique/gift/craft shops and galleries. Honoka‘a is a former sugarcane boomtown that was inextricably linked to the Hāmākua Sugar Company, which was established in 1873 and closed in 1994. Many of the Honoka‘a’s residents are descendants of immigrant sugarcane plant workers from Scotland, England, China, Portugal, Japan, Puerto Rico, and the Philippines. Honoka‘a town also has a grocery store, and movies are shown on weekends at Honoka‘a People’s Theater, which is housed in a restored 1930 building. Kalopā State Recreation Area Kalopā State Recreation Area is located about 40 miles (64 km) north of Hilo and encompasses about 100 acres (40 ha). The park includes a great rainforest hike with lots of native plants and trees such as koa (Acaciakoa) and ‘ōhi‘a lehua(Metrosideros species). Depending on your route, the hike can be up to 4 miles (6.4 km), with an elevation change of about 400 feet (122 m). Camping facilities are available. [Kalopā State Recreation Area. Directions: Off Hawai‘i Belt Road (Hwy. 19) between Mile Markers 39 and 40.] Laupāhoehoe Point / Onomea Drive A sign on Highway marks the turnoff to Laupāhoehoe Point, which is located about halfway between Honoka‘a andHilo. The turnoff leads 1-1/3 miles (2.1 km) down a twisting, scenic road to Laupāhoehoe Point, which was formed by a river of lava that flowed from a relatively late eruption of Mauna Kea. Laupāhoehoe Harbor has restrooms and picnic facilities. The name Laupāhoehoe means “Smooth lava flat,”[cmlxxx]describing the flat peninsula that forms the point. A plaque at Laupāhoehoe memorializes those who perished in the April 1, 1946 tsunami, which swept away the village located there. [Photograph: Tsunami memorial plaque.] The April Fool’s Day 1946 tsunami was caused by an earthquake in the Aleutian Islands, 2,400 miles (3,862 km) north of the Hawaiian Islands. The first of the tsunami waves, which was said to resemble an extra high tide, arrived in the Hawaiian Islands about four hours later, around 6:30 a.m., surrounding homes and buildings. The third and fourth waves were the biggest of some 15 tsunami waves, each arriving about 15 minutes after the previous one, with some of the waves reaching heights up to 56 feet (17 m) above sea level, killing people and destroying property. Ninety-six people in Hilo were killed by the waves. Nearly 500 homes and businesses were destroyed and more than 1,000 more damaged along with railroads, bridges, piers and ships, totaling an estimated $26 million of damage. Other coastal areas on the island of Hawai‘i were also affected, including Laupāhoehoe where 24 people were killed, including 21 school children. The schoolhouse on the point was demolished. The 1946 tsunami also hit other Hawaiian Islands, killing 17 people on Kaua‘i, 13 on Maui, and six on O‘ahu (one at Makapu‘u, two at Kahuku, and three at Kahana). (See Tsunamis, Chapter 4.) [Laupāhoehoe Point, 808-961-8311; located off Hawai‘i Belt Road (Hwy. 19), north of Laupāhoehoe, daily, 7-sunset.] Honomū Honomū (“Silent bay”[cmlxxxi]) is a historic former sugarcane plantation town located about 10 miles (16 km) north of Hilo. The town’s main street now includes wooden boardwalks and tin-roofed buildings that house a variety of shops featuring food as well as local woodwork and crafts. [Honomū, 2 miles (3.2 km) mauka (toward the mountains) from Hawai‘i Belt Road (Hwy. 19), on the way to ‘Akaka Falls.] ‘Akaka Falls State Park Located off Hawai‘i Belt Road (Hwy. 19) inland from Honomū is ‘Akaka Falls State Park. It is well worth the 20-minute hike to see the ‘Akaka Falls plunging 442 feet (135 m) straight down the cliff and down Kolekole Stream. The more it has been raining, of course, the more tumultuous the cascading waterfall. Along the ½-mile (.8-km) circular trail is jungle-like vegetation including ferns, heliconia, orchids, fragrant ginger (red, pink, and blue), bamboo groves, and giant philodendron vines. Also seen along the trail is the 100-foot (30-m) highKahūnā Falls. [‘Akaka Falls State Park, 808-974-6200, ‘Akaka Falls Road (Hwy. 220), 3.5 miles (5.6 km) west of Honomū, open daily 7-7. Directions: Off Hawai‘i Belt Road (Hwy. 19), near Honomū, turn inland on ‘Akaka Falls Road (Highway 220), between Mile Markers 13 and 14, and drive through Honomū and then another 3¾ miles (6 km) to ‘Akaka Falls State Park.] Hawai‘i Tropical Botanical Garden / Pepe‘ekeo Scenic Route Hawai‘i Tropical Botanical Garden is located on the 4-mile (6.4-km) long Pepe‘ekeo Scenic Route off the Hawai‘i Belt Road (Hwy. 19) in Onomea Valley between Honomū and Hilo. Founded in August of 1978 by Dan and Pauline Lutkenhouse, the Garden features many rare and exotic plants, including many palms, gingers, bromeliads, heliconias, and a great diversity of ornamentals. Streams and waterfalls add to the park’s beauty, with more than 25,000 plants of 2,500 different species, including more than 2,000 orchids (750 different species) in the Orchid Garden. Hawai‘i Tropical Botanical Garden is also home to six South American macaws. This scenic drive winds through the region formerly known as Pepe‘e-ke-ō, which means, “The food crushed, as by warriors in battle,”[cmlxxxii] and it is said that “...a stream and rock here are named for Kama-pua‘a, who tried unsuccessfully to drown Hina, mother of Māui here.”[cmlxxxiii] [Hawai‘i Tropical Botanical Garden, 808-964-5233, 27-717, www.hawaiigarden.com, 9-4 daily; on Pepe‘ekeo Scenic Route; Pāpa‘ikou, about 7 miles (11 km) north of Hilo.] Hilo Hilo is Hawai‘i Island’s capital city and also a major port (the second largest in the Hawaiian Islands). About one third of the population of the island of Hawai‘i lives in Hilo. Relatively cool and wet, Hilo is located on Hilo Bay on the island’s northeast side where rain falls most days of the year. Hawai‘i Islands’ prodigious rainfall has led to the town’s nickname, “America’s rainiest city,” and the rain produces the town’s luxuriant jungle-like growth, cascading waterfalls, and of course rainbows. Hilo’s lush weather also allows for plenteous flower production in local nurseries and greenhouses. Popular commercial flowers produced in Hilo include anthuriums, orchids, and gingers, many of which are exported to various locations outside of the Hawaiian Islands. Hilo is a college town, as home to the campus of the University of Hawai‘i-Hilo. Hilo is also home to the Hawaiian Islands’ premier hula competition, the Merrie Monarch Festival, which is held each April. Hilo’s Banyan Drive travels around the Waiākea Peninsula on Hilo Bay, and passes Hilo’s bayfront hotels, the Naniloa Country Club golf course, and Lili‘uokalani Gardens. The large, sprawling banyan trees lining Banyan Drive are marked with plaques identifying the various celebrities and royalty who planted the trees, including Amelia Earhart, Babe Ruth, Cecil B. DeMille and many others. Lili‘uokalani Gardens was originally designed as a tribute to the region’s Japanese immigrants. The park now encompasses 30 acres (12 ha) along Banyan Drive, and includes bridges over streams as well as pagodas and a ceremonial tea house. Hilo is also home to the Big Island Visitors Bureau (see below). [Big Island Visitors Bureau, 808-961-5797, 250 Keawe Street (at Haili Street), open 8-4:30, M-F. Brochure available: Walking Tour of Historic Downtown (also available at Lyman House), www.bigisland.org.] Kalākaua Park Kalākaua Park is located in downtown Hilo. A sundial in the park was placed there by King Kalākaua in 1877. Under a banyan tree in the park is a bronze statue of King Kalākaua holding a leaf of kalo (Colocasia esculenta, taro) and apā ipu, a hula drum made from an ipu (Lagenaria siceraria, bottle gourd). The statue was sculpted in 1988. Kalākaua Park also includes a war memorial. Adjacent to Kalākaua Park is King Kalākaua’s summer home, called Niolopa. [Kalākaua Park, downtown Hilo, add.] Lyman House Memorial Museum and Mission House The Lyman Mission House is the oldest frame structure on the island of Hawai‘i. The house was built in 1839 for missionaries Reverend David and Sarah Lyman from New England. The Lymans had seven children, and in 1931 the Lyman descendants established the Lyman Museum, which is now listed on the National and State Registers of Historic Places. The Lyman Museum features numerous exhibits on many different aspects of Hawaiian culture, from the making of kapa (tapa) barkcloth to pili grass houses and ceremonial items. Other exhibits highlight the various ethnic groups that arrived in the Hawaiian Islands as immigrant laborers. The restored mission house displays exhibits about early mission life. Next door is the Lyman Museum building next door was dedicated in 1973 and includes displays about Hawaiian geology, the Earth’s formation, and Hawaiian flora and fauna as well as a rock and mineral collection. A significant mineral exhibit is on display as well as an astronomy exhibit that includes computers linked to the astronomical observatories atop Mauna Kea. The Museum also offers walking tours of Hilo. [Lyman House Memorial Museum and Mission House, 808-935-5021, 276 Haili Street, Hilo, www.lymanmuseum.org, Mon.-Sat., 9-4:30.] Naha Stone and Pinao Stone Exhibited on the front lawn of the Hilo Library is the Pōhaku Naha (Naha Stone). A prophecy predicted that whoever could move this nearly 5,000-pound (2,268-kg) stone would conquer all of the Hawaiian Islands. In 1775, the young Kamehameha reportedly met this challenge, and later became the ruler of a united Hawaiian Kingdom. In attendance when Kamehameha performed the feat was the prophetess Kalaniwahine. It was said that a newborn child placed who stayed quiet when placed on the stone was of royal blood if he/she remained quiet. Also on the Hilo Library lawn is the Pinao Stone, which is said to have been a entrance pillar to the Pinao Heiau (sacred place of worship) near Wailuku River. This same heiau was also formerly the site of the Naha Stone, which is said to have previously been brought to the island of Hawai‘i from Kaua‘i. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1775.) [Hilo Library, 300 Waiānuenue Avenue, Hilo.] Pacific Tsunami Museum The Pacific Tsunami Museum is located near the Hilo Bayfront in the historic First Hawaiian Bank Building, a restored Art Deco style building that was designed by Charles William Dickey in 1931. The Pacific Tsunami Museum includes exhibits about the 1946 and 1960 tsunamis that devastated Hilo, including personal stories of survivors. Information is provided about the Pacific Tsunami Warning System as well as myths and legends about tsunamis. A theater shows videos about tsunamis, and there is also a keiki (children’s) area and an interactive computer area. The 1946 tsunami destroyed all of the buildings makai (on the ocean side) of Kamehameha Avenue except theMo‘oheau Bandstand, which still stands across the street and down a bit from the museum. [Pacific Tsunami Museum, 808-935-0926, 130 Kamehameha Avenue, Hilo, www.tsunami.org, open 10-4, Mon.-Sat.] Rainbow Falls State Park Rainbow Falls is located on the Wailuku River in west Hilo, up Waiānuenue Avenue in Rainbow Falls State Park. Waiānuenue means “Rainbow [seen in] water.”[cmlxxxiv] The waterfall, which is reached by hiking a short trail, plunges down about 80 feet (24 m) into a huge pool below. The trail also passes by a large banyan tree and luxuriant tropical growth that includes large ferns and groves of bamboo. According to Hawaiian legend, a large cave at the base of the Rainbow Falls is said to be home to Hina, the mother of Māui who pulled the Hawaiian Islands up from the ocean. An ancient proverb states, “Ka ua lei mā‘ohu o Waiānuenue” (“The rain of Waiānuenue that is like a wreath of mist.”)[cmlxxxv] [Rainbow Falls, Directions: Take Waiānuenue Avenue west of Hilo 1 mile (1.6 km), stay to the right at fork in road; a warrior sign marks the Falls.] Pe‘epe‘e Falls / Boiling Pots About 1½ miles (2.4 km) above Rainbow Falls is Pe‘epe‘e Falls and Boiling Pots, with four streams cascading down a sheer cliff into large, round pools. These depressions in the lava rock, where the water churns and boils, has given this site its common name, Boiling Pots. [Pe‘epe‘e Falls / Boiling Pots, 3 miles (4.8 km) west of Hilo on Waiānuenue Ave.] Nani Mau Gardens About 3 miles (4.8 km) south of Hilo is Nani Mau Gardens, encompassing 20 acres (8 ha) propagating a variety ofwell-groomed native and exotic plants, including many flowers (e.g., anthuriums, orchids). Popular among the tour bus companies, Nani Mau Gardens also offers tram rides through the sculpted and artistically arranged gardens. A botanical museum provides information and displays. There is also a restaurant offering a Polynesian buffet. [Nani Mau Gardens, 808-959-3500, 421 Makalika Street, Hilo, www.nanimau.com, open 8:30-5 daily. Located 3 miles (4.8 km) south of Hilo. Directions: Just before Mile Marker 4 on Kanoelehua Highway (Hwy. 11), take Makalika Street, www.nanimau.com.] Mauna Loa Visitor Center This is where the Mauna Loa Company processes their macadamia nuts. [Mauna Loa Visitor Center, Kanoelehua Highway (Hwy. 11), between Mile Markers 5 and 6.] Mauna Loa Volcano Mauna Loa Volcano rises 13,677 feet (4,169 m) above sea level, and descends another 18,000 feet (5,486 m) below the sea. The most massive mountain on Earth, Mauna Loa is 10,000 cubic miles (25,900 km) in all, making it more than100 times as large as Washington’s Mount Rainier. The summit caldera of Mauna Loa is called Moku‘āweoweo, and is about 3 miles (4.8 km) long, 1.5 miles (2.4 km) wide, and 600 feet (183 m) deep, having filled in somewhat from its depth of more than 985 feet (300 m) in 1794. Historic Eruptions In the last 1,100 years, Mauna Loa’s eruptions have poured lava over some 1,000 square miles (2,590 sq. km), which is about half of the volcano’s total land area. Mauna Loa has erupted 37 times since 1832, and 14 times in the last 100 years. Between 1843 and 1949, Mauna Loa erupted 35 times. Lava flows from Mauna Loa eruptions have repeatedly threatened the town of Hilo. When it happened in 1880, the flowing lava took 280 days to reach the edge of Hilo, where King Kamehameha’s granddaughter, Princess Ruth Ke‘elikōlani is said to have supplicated the wrath of the volcano goddess Pele by traveling to the area and offering chants and gifts. The lava flows stopped just on the edge of town. When lava flows again threatened Hilo in 1930 and 1940, the Army Air Corps attempted (unsuccessfully) to divert or disperse the flows by dropping bombs. Lava flows from a Mauna Loa eruption could reach the South Kona area, as they did in 1950, reaching the ocean in only about three hours. The 1950 event lasted for 23 days, destroying many homes and ranches. A 1975 summit eruption lasted for several days and blocked a road near the volcano’s summit. A 22-day eruption of Mauna Loa in 1984 sent lava flowing for 16 miles (26 km) down to the 3,200-foot (975-m) level of the mountain, and covered more than 18 square miles (47 sq. km). The flow came close enough to Hilo to make many people very nervous. Residents on Hawai‘i Island can’t purchase volcano insurance but they may purchase fire insurance and then hope their homes are ignited before they are buried. After its most recent eruption in 1984, Mauna Loa was in an inflation phase with magma collecting beneath the summit. Then from 1994 until May 12, 2002, Mauna Loa was in a deflation phase, possibly due to the cooling of the magma beneath the summit, leading to contraction. Recent Activity On May 12, 2002, Mauna Loa’s summit caldera (Moku‘āweoweo) gradually began swelling, and outward spreading began along a northeast rift (facing Puna and Hilo) at an elevation on the volcano between about 10,000 and 13,000 feet (3,050 to 3,960 m). Though the swelling decreased in early 2003, researchers remain cautious, as the pattern of swelling during the second half of 2002 was similar to what occurred previous to the 1975 and 1984 eruptions, and the rate of swelling was actually higher in 2002 than before the 1975 and 1984 eruptions. Volcano researchers have long considered Mauna Loa and Kīlauea Volcanoes to be fueled by separate magmatic systems. When a recent increase in lava flow activity at Kīlauea began on the same day that Mauna Loa’s summit crater began to inflate, it led researchers to consider the possibility that the two simultaneous events may not be a coincidence, and that the magma systems of Mauna Loa and Kīlauea may be connected much closer to the surface than previously believed. The summit of Mauna Loa is more than 2½ miles (4 km) above sea level, but the magma collects in a region about 3 miles (4.8 km) beneath the summit (just beneath sea level). This collecting magma caused the summit caldera to stretch (inflate) by about 4/5th inch (2 cm) since from May 12, 2002 until 2003. This geophysical data was gathered by Hawaiian Volcano Observatory volcanologists monitoring six tiltmeters and four global positioning system instruments on Mauna Loa. Predicting Future Eruptions Earthquakes or “mini-quakes” usually occur wherever large amounts of magma are moving beneath the earth’s surface, and increased seismic activity (earthquakes) will likely precede any major eruption of Mauna Loa, giving at least several hours warning for those who might be in the path of the lava flows. An increase in earthquakes near Mauna Loa’s summit was recorded in 2002, though not significant enough to signal an imminent eruption. Researchers agree that the most likely site of a new volcanic eruption of lava from Mauna Loa would be at the volcano’s summit. Such an eruption could threaten Hilo (to the east) as well as Kona and its Gold Coast resorts (to the west). Subdivisions above South Point, near Mauna Loa’s southwest rift zone, are considered the most likely to be inundated by a Mauna Loa eruption. More than $2 billion has been spent since 1984 for new construction on this part of the volcano near the southwest rift, and some of these structures were built on lava flows less than a century old. Puna The Puna district is located on the eastern side of the island of Hawai‘i, and is known for lava flows, lava tidepools, tree molds of lava, and areas where villages once stood that are now covered with....lava! Puna is also the region where Kīlauea Volcano’s famously active east rift zone has been pumping out molten earth pretty much non-stop since 1983. Kea‘au Pāhoa Road (Hwy. 130) leads to Pāhoa, known as the “heart of Puna.” Pāhoa has a rustic cowboy architecture as well as raised wooden sidewalks. Also in Pāhoa is the Akebono Theater, built in 1917. Recently renovated, the theater once again shows films and hosts concerts. The town itself is somewhat known for its renegade and outlaw spirit. Lava Tree State Park is located on Pāhoa-Kapoho Road (Highway 132) about 2½ miles (4 km) from Kea‘au Pāhoa Road (Highway 130). A 1790 eruption of Kīlauea Volcano’s east rift zone created the lava tree molds now seen in the park. When a fast-moving lava flow moved through the area and then receded, lava stuck to many of the trees. This burned the‘ōhi‘a lehua trees (Metrosideros species) but left behind a forest of lava molds up to 10 feet (3 m) high. A 20-minute loop trail leads through the area. In north Puna is the small town of Kea‘au. Formerly located in Puna was Waha‘ula Heiau, an ancient heiau (sacred place of worship) built by a Tahitian high priest (kahuna) by the name of Pā‘ao who, according to tradition, founded a high priest line known as kahuna nui sometime before the year A.D.1200. Pā‘ao returned to Tahiti and brought back a chief named Pili, who ruled Hawai‘i Island and sired the royal line beginning a 700-year dynasty culminating with the Kamehamehas. Before the arrival of Pā‘ao the Hawaiians had built various heiau (sacred place of worship), but Pā‘ao constructed Waha‘ula Heiau at Puna on Hawai‘i Island. Waha‘ula was the first luakini (temple of human sacrifice). (Note: Waha‘ula Heiau was buried by the lava flow in 1997.) Pā‘ao also introduced the war god Kūkā‘ilimoku, and Pele, the goddess of fire and volcanoes. Pā‘ao initiated the social order that separated ali‘i (royalty), kāhuna (priests and experts in a given profession), maka‘āinana (commoners who were mostly farmers), and the kauā (or kauwā) class, who were the lowest outcast members. There was a system of laws (kānāwai) that determined if something was kapu (sacred or forbidden). Commoners fell prostrate to the ground in the presence of chiefs, who possessed more mana (divine power). [Pāhoa, From Kea‘au on Kanoelehua Avenue (Hwy. 11), go southeast on Kea‘au Pāhoa Road (Hwy. 130) for 11 miles (18 km).] [Lava Tree State Park, Hwy. 132. Puna District, 808-974-6200; open from just before sunrise to just after sunset.] Punalu‘u Black Sand Beach This black sand beach lines a small bay that is also a nesting site for the endangered Hawaiian Hawksbill sea turtle(Eretmochelys imbricata), which digs a hole in the sand then buries its eggs, which are about the size of ping pong balls. A short walk from the north end of the beach leads to the ruins of a pier and warehouse of the Pāhala Sugar Company. On the south side is Punalu‘u Beach Park, with picnic and camping facilities. Punalu‘u means “Spring dived for.”[cmlxxxvi] The concrete wall near Punalu‘u’s boat ramp was dynamited by the United States Army after the December 7, 1941 Pearl Harbor attack to prevent its use by Japanese in the case of an invasion. [Photograph: Island of Hawai‘i scene] Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park—Kīlauea Volcano Visitor Center: 808-985-6000, open 7:45-5 daily. Hawaiian Volcano Observatory “Volcano Watch”: http://hvo.wr.usgs.gov. Hawai‘i Center for Volcanology: www.soest.hawaii.edu/GG/HCV/Kilauea Volcano House: 967-7321. Park open 24 hours; Internet site: www.nps.gov/havo. Kīlauea Volcano extends over an area of about 600 square miles (1,550 sq km) of the southcentral region of the island of Hawai‘i. During the last century, Kīlauea was erupting approximately 48% of the time, but the volcano was noticeably quiet from the 1920s until the late 1950s. Kīlauea has erupted at least 20 times since 1959. From January 3, 1983 to 1986, Kīlauea erupted spectacular fountains of lava, and the volcano has been erupting almost continuously since that time. Since 1983, Kīlauea Volcano’s lava flows have covered more than 38 square miles (98 sq. km), destroying more than 180 homes and adding more than 535 acres (217 ha) of land to the coast of the Big Island (including more than 10 acres (4 ha) just since May, 2002. Earlier centuries may have seen even greater eruptive events. Researchers recently used radiocarbon dating to reveal that an area called the ‘Aila‘u flow was the result of a continuous eruption that likely lasted from 1410 until 1470. Summit Calderas The summit calderas of Kīlauea, Mauna Loa (on Hawai‘i Island), and Haleakalā (on Maui) all formed when magma (subsurface molten rock) beneath the summit areas drained away, causing the summit to collapse inward. The summit caldera of Kīlauea Volcano is up to 2.5 miles (4 km) across and 400 feet (122 m) deep. Within Kīlauea Caldera is a pit crater called Halema‘uma‘u Crater. At an elevation of 3,646 feet (1,111 m), Halema‘uma‘u is a pit crater within the larger Kīlauea Crater. Halema‘uma‘u Crater is about 3,000 feet (914 m) across and more than 280 feet (85 m) deep. The crater is said to be the site where Pele, the goddess of fire and volcanoes, still protects her sacred fires (see The Legend of Pele below). Magma funneled up into Halema‘uma‘u Crater from deep in the earth ebbs and flows, and this magma movement has caused the size of Halema‘uma‘u Crater to vary over the last century. Halema‘uma‘u Crater was about 1,200 feet (366 m) deep in 1924, but eruptions as recently as 1974 and 1982 poured lava onto the crater floor and filled it to its present depth, now only about 280 feet (85 m). Today pungent sulfur fumes continue to steam up from mineral-encrusted cracks on Halema‘uma‘u’s black-rock floor. Pit craters similar to Halema‘uma‘u Crater also line the East Rift Zone that leads from Kīlauea’s summit toward the ocean. The aptly named Chain of Craters Road descends 3,700 feet (1,128 m) from the summit to the sea. In 1986, the road was blocked by lava flows, and then eventually reopened, but closed again in 1987. More than 9 miles (14 km) of the original road have been covered since 1986. The increased activity, which began on May 12, 2002, once again sent lava flows over the road. Also found along Chain of Craters road is the Pu‘u Lo‘a Petroglyph Area, a remarkable display of Hawaiian petroglyphs. (See Petroglyphs, Chapter 3.) During nearly a century of continuous volcanic activity, the pit crater of Kīlauea’s Halema‘uma‘u Crater was a lava lake. In 1924, there was a violent steam eruption as the lava lake drained out. Since then approximately 40 more eruptions have occurred in the area of the summit and rift zones that run down the volcano’s flanks. Kīlauea’s summit area has seen only two eruption events since 1982, and each of these lasted less than one day. The most recent activity is a flank eruption on the East Rift Zone that began in 1983 and continues today. Since 1983, Kīlauea Volcano has released more than 67 billion cubic feet (1.9 billion cu. m) of lava that has covered at least 40.7 square miles (105.5 sq. km). Crater Rim Drive Crater Rim Drive circles Kīlauea‘s summit caldera, allowing a tour of pit craters, lava tubes, sulfur banks, steam vents, and recent lava flows. The magma is still very near the surface of the summit area, and steam vents are common there just as they are along the rift zones. Kīlauea Iki Crater Kīlauea Iki is a smaller crater found in the summit area, and likely formed about the same time the summit collapsed to form the caldera. Kīlauea Iki means “Little Kīlauea,” and last displayed a stunning fire show in 1959 when fountains of lava erupted to heights of 1,900 feet (579 m), the highest ever recorded in the Hawaiian Islands. Kīpuka and Lava Trees Kīpuka are “islands” of forest surrounded by lava flows. Kīpuka support many native plants that have evolved in these unique and isolated habitats on Kīlauea Volcano. Tree molds and “lava trees” form when lava engulfs trees and hardens. The lava-covered areas of the cataclysmic summit environment on Kīlauea Volcano appear quite desolate, but the summit is bordered by lush rainforests dominated by ‘ōhi‘a lehua trees (Metrosideros species) and hāpu‘u tree ferns(Cibotium species). [Photograph: Kīlauea Summit] Lava Tubes and Skylights Lava tubes are formed when flowing hot lava cools and crusts over as the still-molten interior lava continues to flow downhill through the tunnel. When the molten lava eventually drains out from the hardened outer crust it leaves behind a lava tube, which is just the hardened shell of the flowing lava. The most prominent example of a lava tube is found along Crater Rim Drive at the Thurston Lava Tube, known by the Hawaiian name of Nāhuku, which means “The protuberances.”[cmlxxxvii] In active lava tubes on the East Rift Zone or near the sea, one might see what is known as a “skylight.” Skylights occur when the walls of a lava tube are very thin, and close to their melting point, or when the lava tube roof collapses giving a view of the flowing lava within. Park Accommodations and Trails At the 4,000-foot (1,220-km) elevation on the northern rim of Kīlauea Caldera is Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park Headquarters as well as the Visitor Center, Volcano Art Center, and the Volcano House Hotel and Restaurant. Along Crater Rim Drive is a second visitor center known as the Thomas A. Jaggar Museum. Hiking trails in the summit area include: the 11-mile (18-km) long Crater Rim Trail that circles the summit caldera; Halema‘uma‘u Trail (6.4 miles; 10.3 km); Kīlauea Iki Trail (5 miles; 8 km); the Thurston Lava Tube (Nāhuku) walk (1/3 mile; .5 km); and Devastation Trail, through Kīlauea Iki’s cinder outfall (1 mile; 1.6 km). Mauna Iki Trail (3.6 miles; 5.8 km) leads to the footprints of Hawaiian warriors preserved in ash from an eruption in 1790. Mauna Iki is a dome that was formed during an eruption on the southwest rift in 1920. A 14-mile (22.5-km) round trip hike called Nāpau-Kalapana leads to Nāpau Crater and close to the extremely active region of Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō and the East Rift Zone (see below). O ka lā ko luna, o ka pāhoehoe ko lalo. The sun above, the smooth lava below. Said of a journey in which the traveler suffers the heat of the sun above and the reflected heat from the lava bed below. (Pukui: 2417-264) Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō Crater Though Kīlauea’s summit has had some spectacular eruptions in the recent past, most of the current activity on Kīlauea Volcano occurs along the Southwest and East Rift Zones. In 1984, at a site along the East Rift Zone called Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō Crater, explosions of fountaining lava reached heights of more than 1,500 feet (457 m). Since Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō Crater began erupting on Jan. 3, 1983, its lava flows have destroyed more than 187 structures. These were mostly homes, but also included churches, heiau (sacred places of worship), and native sacred sites). Dozens of homes in the Royal Gardens subdivision in lower Puna were destroyed. In May of 2001, the Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō Vent flow covered almost a mile of an unpaved access road to the subdivision, blocking nearly 1,500 people from the lots they owned. [Photograph: Lava destruction] Papapau kākou, he ‘a‘ā ko ka hale. We are all destroyed; only lava rocks will be found in the house. Utter destruction, as by a lava flow. (Pukui: 2603-286) In 1997, amidst a swarm of earthquakes, Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō crater erupted and collapsed, sending abrasive red cinder dust (fine-grained lithic tephra) over dozens of square miles of Kīlauea’s eastern flank. The iron in the volcanic rock oxidized as it was ejected, creating red dust-sized particles that were a kind of volcanic rust. About 3 miles (5 km) up the East Rift Zone from Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō Crater, and 9 miles (14.5 km) east of Kīlauea’s summit, curtains of fiery lava up to 100 feet (30 m) tall shot from fissures in the Earth. [Photograph: Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō Crater collapse] A significant increase in lava flows from Kīlauea Volcano’s Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō vent began on May 12, 2002, the same date that Mauna Loa showed volcanic activity (see below). Kīlauea’s May 12, 2002 outbreak of lava first reached the ocean along the Puna coast on July 19, 2002. As many as four thousand visitors per day flocked to the area to see the increased activity, including streams of lava cascading up to 45 feet (14 m) off the seacliffs into the ocean. Visitors to Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park should be extremely cautious. Molten lava produces sulfuric fumes and a lava haze (nicknamed “laze”) that may be hazardous if inhaled, particularly for those with lung or heart conditions. Where the lava enters the ocean scalding sprays of water are produced along with the gases. At least seven people have died during lava-viewing visits in the last two decades, including four people who died because they got too close to the active areas where 2,000º Fahrenheit (1,093º Celsius) lava flows into the sea. Three people died some distance from the active flow areas—one from a heart attack and one from a fall while hiking over the hardened lava. On April 19, 1993, a man died when a section of the newly created lava shoreline that he was standing on collapsed into the ocean. Much of Kīlauea’s erupting lava flows to the sea through underground tubes beneath areas hardened surface lava that may still be very hot from the lava flowing underneath. Some hardened lava may be extremely unstable, including shelves of lava near the ocean that may be particularly unpredictable and dangerous. Walking across expanses of jagged lava to get to the active flows also provides its own difficulties, and sturdy footwear is recommended, including thick soles and ankle support. Since May of 2002, the lava flows have added at least 10 acres (4 ha) of land to the island of Hawai‘i, also creating new black sand beaches along the island’s southeast shore. The eruption also sparked a fire that burned 3,600 acres (1,457 ha). Updates on volcanic activity may be seen at the Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park website and the United States Geological Service (USGS) Hawaiian Volcano Observatory website (see above). Lava Types, Black-Sand Beaches and Volcanic Gas If you visit a lava flow area you will see two distinct types of hardened lava: ‘a‘ā (pronounced ah-ah) and pāhoehoe (pronounced puh hoy hoy). Both types of lava have the same chemical composition, but differ in their appearance. Pāhoehoe lava has a ropy, smooth texture, because it is hotter and more fluid than ‘a‘ā when it erupts. ‘A‘ā has a rougher, chunkier look, and may be spiny. Both types of lava may be shiny black or a dull brownish color. ‘A‘ā lava contains less gas upon erupting, being at a lower temperature than pāhoehoe. Pāhoehoe’s hotter temperature allows it to flow in wrinkles and folds, rather than chunking up like ‘a‘ā. [Photographs: Pāhoehoe lava; ‘a‘ā lava (comparison)] When hot flowing lava explodes into the ocean, tiny particles of the material are carried by currents toward nearby shorelines where black-sand beaches form. Steam clouds created by lava entering the ocean contain hydrochloric acid and volcanic glass particles, which may cause respiratory problems. Beware of getting too close! Two visitors died in 2000 from breathing the heated gases near the flowing lava area. Kīlauea’s eruptions are estimated to be emitting about 1,000 tons (907 mton) of sulfur dioxide gas into the air each day (almost continually since 1982), making it one of the biggest sources of air pollution on the island of Hawai‘i. This volcanic gas known as “Vog” is a brown haze that accumulates in the lee of Mauna Loa, to the misfortune of South Kona residents. When the island winds blow to the northwest, the Vog may reach all the way to Kaua‘i, the northernmost island of the main Hawaiian Islands.
Kaho‘olawe Overview of Kaho‘olawe Land Area: 44.6 square miles (115.5 sq. km) Island Emblem: Hinahina (Heliotropium anomalumvar. argenteum) Highest Elevation: 1,483 feet (452 m), at the summit of Pu‘u Moa‘ulanui. Size Comparison: Kaho‘olawe is the eighth largest Hawaiian Island. [Illustration: Map—Kaho‘olawe] Cultural / Historical Sites and Attractions Kaho‘olawe is a relatively dry island, located less than 7 miles (11.3 km) southwest of Maui, and largely blocked from heavy rains by Maui’s Haleakalā Volcano. Kaho‘olawe is about 11 miles (18 km) long and 6 miles (9.7 km) wide. According to Hawaiian tradition, Kaho‘olawe is the sacred home of the god Kanaloa. The island is also the site of many heiau (sacred places of worship) built by ancient Hawaiians. Ancient chants have revealed that a spot at the 1,444-foot (440-m) elevation on a Kaho‘olawe mountain called Moa‘ulaiki was a place where the Polynesian ocean navigators were trained in the arts of celestial navigation, using stars to guide them over the vast Pacific Ocean. Hakioawa (“Breaking of [the] harbor”[cmlxxxviii]) in north Kaho‘olawe is said to be where ‘Ai‘ai, the fish demigod, erected a kū‘ula (altar) on a cliff overlooking the ocean. The temple at Hakioawa is thought to have been built before A.D. 1600. In 1829, kuhina nui (premier) Ka‘ahumanu, then a Protestant convert, ordered that practicing Catholics be punished. For a short time after this proclamation, the island of Kaho‘olawe served as a penal colony for the offenders. A Hawaiian proverbs states: “He uku maoli ia, he i‘a no Kaho‘olawe,” (“He is an uku, a fish of Kaho‘olawe,” meaning, “He is a rebel. Said by Keopuolani of Kekuaokalani when she suspected him of rebellion at the time of ‘ai-noa (the abolishing of the kapu).”[cmlxxxix] [Photograph: Moa‘ulaiki] Kaho‘olawe’s land and native ecosystems have suffered a long history of abuse, beginning with the habitat degradation caused by introduced goats as well as cattle ranching. In 1920, the United States military began using the island of Kaho‘olawe as a bombing range for ships and aircraft. In 1939, the Territory of Hawai‘i leased the southern tip of Kaho‘olawe to the United States Army for use as an artillery range. After the 1941 attack on Pearl Harbor (and despite many objections) the U.S. Navy gained exclusive use of Kaho‘olawe for bombing practice and gunnery training. On February 20, 1953, President Dwight D. Eisenhower signed an executive order placing Kaho‘olawe under the Secretary of the Navy’s jurisdiction, for use by the Navy. A grass-roots protest movement developed, and was known as Protect Kaho‘olawe ‘Ohana. On January 4, 1976, the group led the first protest occupation of Kaho‘olawe in an effort to stop the use of the island as a military bombing target. Seven of the nine protesters occupying the island were arrested within hours, but two of the protesters were not caught, and remained on the island for three days. In 1977 George Jarrett Helm Jr. and James “Kimo” Mitchell disappeared during their attempt to reclaim Kaho‘olawe for native Hawaiians. In 1980, Protect Kaho‘olawe ‘Ohana entered into an agreement with the U.S. Navy. The consent decree authorized an archeological survey as well as goat eradication, and began clearance of weapons materials from the island’s surface, though military training on Kaho‘olawe continued. On March 18, 1981, Kaho‘olawe was placed on the National Register of Historic Places. On October 22, 1990, U.S. President George Bush ended the use of Kaho‘olawe for bombing practice, and created a congressional commission to work out a return of the island to Hawaiians. In 1993, the U. S. Navy received a $400 million authorization from the U. S. Congress to clean ordnance from Kaho‘olawe (through November, 2003, and then later extended four months), and the Kaho‘olawe Island Reserve Commission was put in charge of restoring the island once the ordnance was removed. In 1994, under a congressional appropriations act and presidential order, the island of Kaho‘olawe was returned to the State of Hawai‘i. In July of 1997, Parsons-UXB Joint Venture was given a contract to clear ordnance, and employed archaeologists, surveyors, environmental specialists, heavy equipment operators, and other workers. The Navy transferred control of access to Kaho‘olawe to the State of Hawai‘i on November 11, 2003. By the end of 2003, the cleanup efforts had succeeded in clearing more than 20,000 acres (8,100 ha) of the island’s surface to 4 feet (1.2 m) deep. More than 90,000 pieces of ordnance were disposed of, including 2000-pound (907 kg) bombs. More than 8.5 million pounds (3.9 million kg) of weapon fragments were gathered. In addition, more than 12,000 tires (commonly used to mark targets) were removed from Kaho‘olawe. The Navy also identified 2,550 historic sites on Kaho‘olawe, including 630 discovered during the cleanup effort. Seventeen of the 27 cultural sites that had been identified in a 1995 Land Use Plan were cleared. A $3 million rain catchment tank was installed at the island’s summit to provide water for the native plants and trees including more than 20,000 plants in Lua Makika crater. Kaho‘olawe remains off limits to the general public, and there is a 2-mile (3.2-km) offshore no fishing zone. Kaho‘olawe is visited by Native Hawaiians as well as by military personnel carrying out the federally funded clean-up of bombed and unexploded ordnance. More than 500 archaeological sites have been identified on Kaho‘olawe, although many of the island’s native sites were destroyed by years of bombings. Kaho‘olawe is now designated by the State of Hawai‘i as a cultural reserve. On the Kaho‘olawe volcano called Lua Makika there is a large stone quarry once used by ancient Hawaiians. [Photograph: Kaho‘olawe scene]
Northwestern Hawaiian Islands Overview Nihoa Island Necker Island French Frigate Shoals Gardner Pinnacles Midway Atoll Laysan Island
Northwestern Hawaiian Islands Overview of Northwestern Hawaiian Islands Combined Land Area: 6 square miles (15.5 sq. km). Size Comparison: One-tenth of one percent of the total land area of the Hawaiian Islands. Also called: The Leeward Islands The eight main Hawaiian Islands comprise 99.9% of the total land area of the State of Hawai‘i. The Northwestern Hawaiian Islands constitute the other .1%. [Illustration: Map—Northwestern Hawaiian Islands] The Northwestern Hawaiian Islands include 124 scattered islets, shoals, and atolls that span over about 1,050 miles (11,690 km) of ocean beginning at Nihoa Island about 150 miles (241 km) to the west-northwest of Kaua‘i. Most of the tiny islets barely rise above the water’s surface. Some of these islands show evidence of inhabitation by Hawaiians prior to Western contact. After Western contact, the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands were visited by various ships, including whalers, fishermen, coal transport ships, salvage ships, guano miners, and collectors of bird eggs and feathers, and hunters of seals and turtles. In 2000, President Clinton declared a Northwestern Hawaiian Islands Coral Reef Ecosystem Reserve on 99,500 square nautical miles northwest of the main Hawaiian Islands, including the Hawaiian Islands National Wildlife Refuge (originally designated by Theodore Roosevelt). The Reserve bans oil and gas drilling as well as dumping, and places new restrictions on fishing. Larger than the states of Florida and Georgia combined, the Reserve contains about 70% of the United States’ coral reefs, and supports at least 7,000 species of fish, birds, marine mammals and other flora and fauna. About half of the species are endemic (unique) to the Hawaiian Islands. In June of 2004, the Hōkūle‘a Voyaging Canoe sailed from O‘ahu to Kaua‘i’s Hanalei Bay before continuing on to complete a 2,400-mile round trip through the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands to Kure Atoll and back. In June of 2006 the whole region of the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands was declared a National Monument. [Photograph/Map: Northwestern Hawaiian Islands] Nihoa Island Also called: Moku Manu (“Bird Island”**[cmxc]**). Location: Closest to the main Hawaiian Islands; 150 miles northwest of Kaua‘i. Nearest to the main Hawaiian Islands is 7.2-million-year-old Nihoa Island, which is 130 miles (209 km) from Ni‘ihau, and 103-million-year-old Necker Island, 310 miles (499 km) from Ni‘ihau. Both Necker and Nihoa were uninhabited when Captain Cook established Western contact in 1778, yet both islands have remains of ancient inhabitation. [Illustration: Overview of location of Necker and Nihoa] Nihoa Island formed about 7.2 million years ago. The island is about 1 mile long by ¼-mile wide, with a total land area of about .25 square miles (65 sq. km). The highest elevation on the island is 903 feet (275 m), making it the tallest of the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands. Dozens of ancient house sites have been discovered on Nihoa as well as extensive prehistoric agricultural terraces, many small stone images (now in the Bishop Museum), stone-walled enclosures, habitation caves, and cultural artifacts including stone bowls, stone adzes, octopus lures, and fishhooks, yet the island was uninhabited at the time of Western contact in 1778. Nihoa means “Firmly set.”[cmxci] Another name associated with Nihoa is Mauloku, which means “Continuous falling,” referring to a “...leaping place for souls.”[cmxcii] Nihoa is also mentioned in ancient chants. Nihoa has two endangered native land bird species—the Nihoa finch and the Nihoa millerbird. Three different seabirds—blue-gray noddies, Tristam’s storm-petrels, and Bulwer’s petrels—thrive on Nihoa with nesting colonies that are among the largest found anywhere for these species. An ancient proverb states, “Nihoa i ka moku manu,” (“Nihoa, island of birds”).[cmxciii] The first Westerner to visit Nihoa was British Captain Douglas on the Iphigenia, who came upon the island on March 19, 1789. [Photograph: Nihoa] Necker Island Also called: Mokumanamana (“Branching islands”**[cmxciv]**). Location: 460 miles from Honolulu, 310 miles from Ni‘ihau. Necker Island is 310 miles (499 km) northwest of Ni‘ihau, and has many heiau (sacred places of worship) as well as numerous agricultural terraces, house and temple platforms, and ancient loko i‘a (fishponds). Necker Island formed about 10.3 million years ago, and has a land area of about .07 square miles (.18 sq. km). The highest point on the island is 276 feet. An extensive complex of heiau (sacred places of worship) on Necker was likely used for cultural ceremonies, but the island shows few signs of permanent habitation sites. Like Nihoa, Necker was uninhabited at the time of Western contact in 1778. On November 4, 1786 French navigator Count de la Pérouse named Necker Island after the French Minister of Finance, Jacques Necker, who served under Louis XVI. Necker Island’s heiau complex and Nihoa’s agricultural terraces reveal ancient uses of the islands by Hawaiians. Both Necker and Nihoa also support many endemic plant and animal species not found on the eight main Hawaiian Islands. [Photograph: Necker] French Frigate Shoals Also called: Moku pāpapa (“Flat island”)**[cmxcv]** Location: 560 miles from Honolulu. French Frigate Shoals consists of 16 sandy islets and a 20-mile-long crescent-shaped reef that makes it the Northwestern Hawaiian Island’s largest atoll, though the total land area of French Frigate Shoals is only about .09 square miles (.23 sq. km). The last visible volcanic remnant at French Frigate Shoals is a rock outcropping known as La Pérouse Pinnacle, located south of the main reefs and reaching to a height of 120 feet (37 m). On March 6, 1786, French navigator Count de la Pérouse was surveying the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands when he made the first documented Western discovery of French Frigate Shoals. Count de la Pérouse was in command of theBoussole and the Astrolabe when his two 500-ton (454-mton) armed naval frigates almost wrecked on French Frigate Shoals’ reefs, which were then named in honor of this near mishap. Tern Island at French Frigate Shoals was once 11 acres in size, but seawalls were built and coral was blasted from the reef and used to enlarge the island to 34 acres. Still maintained on Tern is the ½-mile-long white-coral runway, which takes up about half of the island’s 460-foot width. Today Tern Island serves as a biological field station for the Hawaiian Islands National Wildlife Refuge. French Frigate Shoals is home to most of the Hawaiian Islands’ endemic ‘ilio-holo-i-ka-uaua (Monachus schauinslandi, Hawaiian monk seals), and a main nesting ground of honu (Chelonia mydas, Hawaiian green sea turtles). Just 100 nesting female sea turtles were documented in the 1970’s, but by 1997 the population of nesting females had grown to more than 500. [Photograph: French Frigate Shoals] Gardner Pinnacles Also called: Pūhāhonu (Pūhā means “To breath air, as a sea turtle”; honu means “turtle.”**[cmxcvi]**) Location: 690 miles from Honolulu. The Gardner Pinnacles include two rocky islands, the largest of which is just 300 yards long. Together the two islands have a total land area of about .005 square miles (.013 sq km). The highest point on Gardner Pinnacles is about 170 feet (52 m). Plant life on Gardner Pinnacles is scarce, but the diversity of marine species in the offshore waters is among the highest in the region, with about 600,000 acres of reef habitat supporting at least 27 coral species. [Photograph: Gardner Pinnacles] Midway Atoll Also called: Pihemanu (Pihe means “Crying, shouting, wailing”; manu means “bird.”) Location:1,309 miles northwest of Honolulu. Midway Atoll is the summit of an extinct volcano that originally formed about 28 million years ago where the island of Hawai‘i is today, almost directly over the erupting lava plume of the Hawaiian magmatic hot spot that eventually produced all of the Hawaiian Islands. In the last 28 million years, Midway has been carried northwest by the Pacific Plate to its present location, 1,580 miles northwest of the island of Hawai‘i. Midway Atoll now consists of three tiny islands: Spit Island, Sand Island, and Eastern Island. The highest point on Midway is 12 feet (3.7 m). In the late 1800’s, the U.S. Navy used Midway Atoll as a coaling station, and in 1903, Midway was placed under the control of the U.S. Navy. Midway Atoll is perhaps best known as the site of the Battle of Midway, which began on June 4, 1942 when the Japanese naval fleet attempted to secure the remote site as a strategic military outpost. In the Battle of Midway, American fighter pilots and dive-bombers sank four aircraft carriers of the Japanese fleet along with three destroyers and two cruisers. U.S. forces also lost an aircraft carrier, the Yorktown, as well as one destroyer. On June 5, 1942, U.S. Admiral Nimitz (1885-1966), the commander of the Pacific Fleet, announced the United States victory over the Japanese Fleet at Midway. The Battle of Midway became a turning point of World War II, securing the atoll as a Navy base location for the duration of the war and providing a strategic port location for submarines and ships. About 1,500 people lived on the 2.5-square-mile atoll during this time. Over the following decades tens of thousands of military personnel and private contractors visited and stayed on Midway, which is now a National Historic Landmark. A monument on the atoll commemorates the Battle of Midway. Midway is also home to many shipwrecks, including the United States Navy submarine rescue vehicle U.S.S. Macaw. On February 13, 1944, the Macaw ran aground at Midway Atoll while on a mission to retrieve the submarineU.S.S. Flier after bad weather caused the grounding of the ship. A crew manned the ship’s pumps until a March storm finished off the battered vessel. Midway is home to hundreds of thousands of birds, and the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service began managing Midway Atoll as a wildlife refuge in 1996. Today Midway remains a thriving habitat for many endangered Hawaiian species, including Hawaiian monk seals, green sea turtles, and at least 16 migratory seabird species. Midway Atoll has the largest population of Laysan albatross found anywhere—about 400,000 nesting pairs. A 20-foot Laysan albatross statue on Midway Atoll is appropriately titled “Gooney Bird,” the species’ nickname due to its theatrical courtship dances and other curious behaviors. At least 14 other migratory seabird species also inhabit Midway, including about 20,000 black-footed albatross, the second-largest population found anywhere. Occasionally sighted is the endangered short-tailed albatross, known as the golden gooney because of its yellow head and neck feathers, and its pink bill. [Photographs: Midway Atoll, Battle of Midway; seabirds on Midway.] Laysan Island Also called: Kaūo, Moller Island. Location: 940 miles from Honolulu. Size: About 1,015 acres of dry land. Laysan is the second largest of the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands, after Midway’s Sand Island. In the middle of Laysan Island is a large, salty lake about 100 acres in size. The highest spot on Laysan Island is 40 feet. In the late 1800’s Laysan Island was the site of extensive mining of guano (bird droppings) for use as fertilizer. Egg collectors and those seeking bird feathers for fashion killed hundreds of thousands of birds on Laysan. Sea turtles and monk seals were also taken in large numbers. Rabbits were released on Laysan in 1903 in an attempt to start a rabbit-canning business, which failed, but the rabbits nevertheless multiplied out of control and killed most of the island’s native plants. This led to the extinction of Laysan’s native land bird species, including an orange honeycreeper similar to the ‘apapane. Coastal sandalwood forest once thrived on Laysan Island along with native palms, but by 1923 just four plant species were left on Laysan. The island’s two endangered land birds are the Laysan finch and the Laysan duck, or teal. The Laysan duck was once also found on the main Hawaiian Islands but disappeared due to rats, which eat the birds’ eggs. The Laysan duck now exists only on Laysan Island, and the species’ population is about 400, which is significantly up from about 100 in 1993. [Photograph: Laysan Island] [Photograph: Northwestern Hawaiian Islands] [Caption:] The Northwestern Hawaiian Islands The eight main Hawaiian Islands comprise 99.9% of the total land area of the State of Hawai‘i. The Northwestern Hawaiian Islands constitute the other .1%.] Midway Atoll [Illustration: Midway Atoll] Midway Atoll is the summit of an extinct volcano 1,580 miles (2,543 km) northwest of the island of Hawai‘i and about 1,309 miles (2,107 km) northwest of Honolulu. Midway Atoll consists of three tiny islands: Spit Island, Sand Island, and Eastern Island. In 1903, President Theodore Roosevelt designated the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands as a seabird refuge, but Midway was put under the control of the U.S. Navy. In 1996, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service began managing Midway Atoll as a wildlife refuge, taking over from the United States Navy. When Midway was initially formed about 28 million years ago, it was located where the island of Hawai‘i is today, almost directly over the erupting lava plume of the Hawaiian magmatic hot spot that produced all of the Hawaiian Islands. In the last 28 million years, Midway has been carried northwest by the Pacific Plate to its present location. In comparison, the island of Kaua‘i is only about five million years old, enough time to have been carried about 400 miles (643 km) northwest of the magmatic hot spot. In comparison, O‘ahu is about 220 miles (354 km) from the magmatic hot spot. The U.S. Navy used Midway as a coaling station in the late 1800s, and PanAm China Clippers airplanes also stopped at Midway. In 1906, the wooden bark Carrollton became shipwrecked at Midway Atoll. The ship had been used to transport coal from Australia to San Francisco. The atoll is best known, however, as the site of the Battle of Midway, which began on June 4, 1942, when the Japanese naval fleet attempted to secure Midway Atoll. American fighter pilots and dive-bombers sank four carriers of the Japanese fleet. On June 5, 1942, U.S. Admiral Nimitz (1885-1966), the commander of the Pacific Fleet, announced the victory over the Japanese Fleet at Midway. [Photograph: Battle of Midway] The Battle of Midway became a turning point of World War II, securing the atoll as a strategic Navy base location for the duration of the war, and also providing a strategic port location for submarines and ships. About 1,500 people lived on the 2.5 square mile (6.5 sq. km) atoll during this time, and over the decades tens of thousands of military personnel and private contractors visited and stayed on Midway Atoll. A monument commemorates the Battle of Midway. On February 13, 1944, the United States Navy submarine rescue vehicle U.S.S. Macaw ran aground at Midway Atoll. It had been on a mission to retrieve the submarine U.S.S. Flier when bad weather caused the grounding of the ship. A crew manned the ship’s pumps until a March storm finished off the ship. Today Midway is home to many endangered Hawaiian species, including monk seals (Monachus schauinslandi;Hawaiian name: ‘Ilio-holo-i-ka-uaua), green sea turtles (Chelonia mydas; Hawaiian name: Honu), and various native bird species. In the year 2000, there were 14 documented monk seal births on Midway, and at least 12 more monk seal births at Midway Atoll in 2001. Midway Atoll has the largest population of Laysan albatross (Diomedea immutabilis; Hawaiian name: mōlī) foundanywhere, including nearly 400,000 nesting pairs. The Laysan albatross is also known as the “gooney bird” due to its courtship dances and other behaviors. Also found on Midway Atoll is a 20-foot (6-m) Laysan albatross statue appropriately titled “Gooney Bird.” Midway is also home to about 20,000 black-footed albatross (Diomedea nigripes) and there are occasional sightings of the rarely seen short-tailed albatross (Diomedea albatrus), which is federally listed as an endangered species. The short-tailed albatross is also known as the golden gooney because of its yellow head and neck feathers and its pink bill. At least 14 other migratory seabird species also inhabit Midway.
Chapter 2 Source Notes All Hawaiian words in this text, the Hawaiian Encyclopedia, include proper diacritical marks, including the ‘okina (hamzah, or glottal stop) and kahakō (macron), except when the word is cited directly as part of a title or in a direct quote, in which case the words are spelled as originally published. See Appendix 1: Note On Sources for more information about diacritical marks; objectivity; Hawaiian word spellings and meanings; scientific, cultural, and historic information; new research and discoveries; verifying dates and details of historic events; and Hawaiian sovereignty and other native issues. [Note: This list is still in progress and being updated.] Adams, Wanda A. Explore scenic and historic North Kohala. The Honolulu Advertiser, 9/08/2002. Adams, Wanda A. Hike through history at Pololū Valley: Kohala Ditch trail also offers native wildlife, scenic views. The Honolulu Advertiser, 9/08/2002. Aguiar, Eloise. Big turquoise waves create perfect ‘Eddie.’ The Honolulu Advertiser, 1/08/2002. Aikin, Ross R. Kilauea Point Lighthouse: The Landfall Beacon on the Orient Run. Kilauea Point Natural History Association. Lihue: Island Printers, 1988. Akana-Gooch, Keiko Kiele. Relatives recall his humble personality. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 8/25/2002. Akana-Gooch, Keiko Kiele. Volunteers and experts tackle extensive Hokule‘a repairs. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 8/25/2002. Ali‘iolani Hale. Internet site: http://www.planet-hawaii.com/jhchawaii/ahale.html, 8/18/2002. All About Hawaii (1948-1949): Thrum’s Hawaiian Annual and Standard Guide. Publications Division: Honolulu Star-Bulletin, Honolulu, Hawaii, 1949. A look at Midway Atoll today. The Garden Island, 6/06/2002. Ariyoshi, Rita. The National Geographic Traveler: Hawaii. Washington, D.C.: National Geographic Society, 2000. Arthur, Sheila Heathcoate. Kauaians help to restore lonely Kaho‘olawe. The Garden Island, 9/19/1998. Atlas of Hawai‘i: Second Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1983. Atlas of Hawai‘i: Third Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998. A Trip Through Hawaii’s Military History: Exploring the U.S. Army Museum of Hawaii. Edited by Barbara Mills. Hawaii Army Museum Society, 2000. Bakutis, Bunky. Diver gets close look at ‘Jaws’ off Maili: Great whites rare in Hawaii. The Honolulu Advertiser, 8/15/1999. Beamish, Rita. Scientists, environmentalists, fishermen clash over NW Hawaiian Islands’ future. The Garden Island, 5/27/2002. Beletsky, Les. Hawaii: The Ecotravellers’ Wildlife Guide. London: Academic Press, 2000. Bishop Museum—About the Museum. Internet site: http://www.bishopmuseum.org/about.html, 7/23/2002. Bishop Museum—About the Museum: Contact Information. Internet site: http://www.bishopmuseum.org/contact.html, 7/23/2002. Bishop Museum—About the Museum: Our Mission. Internet site: http://www.bishopmuseum.org/mission.html, 7/23/2002. Bishop Museum—Amy B. H. Greenwell Ethnobotanical Garden. Internet site: http://bishopmuseum.org/greenwell/index.html, 7/28/2002. Bishop Museum—Archives: About the photo collection. Internet site: http://www.bishopmuseum.org/research/cultstud/libarch/archphoto.html, 8/07/2002. Bishop Museum—Archives: The Mele Collection. Internet site:http://www.bishopmuseum.org/research/cultstud/libarch/archmele.html, 8/07/2002. Bishop Museum—Archives: Manuscript Collection. Internet site:http://www.bishopmuseum.org/research/cultstud/libarch/archmanu.html, 8/07/2002. Bishop Museum—Archives: Special Collections. Internet site:http://www.bishopmuseum.org/research/cultstud/libarch/archother.html, 8/07/2002. Bishop Museum—Falls of Clyde. Informational brochure distributed at Hawai‘i Maritime Center. Bishop Museum: Hawaiian and Pacific Studies. Internet site: http://bishopmuseum.org/research/cultstud/handps.html, 7/28/2002. Bishop Museum—Hawai‘i Maritime Center: Home of the Hokule‘a and Falls of Clyde. Internet site: http://bishopmuseum.org/hmc/, 7/28/2002. Bishop Museum: Hawaii’s Extinct Species. Internet site: http://hbs.bishopmuseum.org/endangered/extinct.html, 7/28/2002. Bishop Museum—Hawaii’s Extinct Species: Insects. Internet site: http://hbs.bishopmuseum.org/endangered/ext-insects.html, 7/28/2002. Bishop Museum—Hawaii’s Extinct Species: Plants. Internet site: http://hbs.bishopmuseum.org/endangered/ext-plants.html, 7/28/2002. Bishop Museum—Hawaii’s Extinct Species: Snails. Internet site: http://hbs.bishopmuseum.org/endangered/ext-snails.html, 7/28/2002. Bishop Museum: History. Internet site: http://www.bishopmuseum.org/history.html, 7/28/2002. Bishop Museum—Hokule‘a: Polynesian Voyaging Canoe- Retracing the paths of ancient Polynesia. Internet site: http://www.bishopmuseum.org/hmc/hokulea.html, 8/07/2002. Bishop Museum: Museum Guide & Map. Informational brochure, distributed at Bishop Museum, 8/15/2002. Bishop Museum—Library and Archives: The history of Hawaii and the Pacific in words and images. Internet site:http://www.bishopmuseum.org/research/cultstud/libarch/, 8/07/2002. Bishop Museum: Message from the President. Internet site: http://www.bishopmuseum.org/message.html, 7/23/2002. Bishop Museum: Native plant species in Hawai‘i. Internet site: http://www.bishopmuseum.org/greenwell/gwplants.html, 8/07/2002. Bishop Museum: Pacific Center for Molecular Biodiversity. Internet site: http://bishopmuseum.org/research/pcmb/pcmb.html, 7/28/2002. Bishop Museum: Past Exhibits. Internet site: http://www.bishopmuseum.org/exhibits/past.html, 8/07/2002. Bishop Museum: Planetarium Programs: Fun in Space. Internet site: http://www.bishopmuseum.org/education/planetarium.html, 8/07/2002. Bishop Museum Press. Internet site: http://www.bishopmuseum.org/press/, 7/28/2002. Bishop Museum—The Falls of Clyde: A one-of-a-kind ship. Internet site: http://www.bishopmuseum.org/hmc/fallsofclyde.html, 8/07/2002. Bishop Museum—The Kona Field System. Internet site: http://www.bishopmuseum.org/greenwell/kona.html, 8/07/2002. Bishop Museum—The role of the Hawaii Biological Survey. Internet site: http://hbs.bishopmuseum.org/hbs3.html. Bishop Museum: Upcoming Traveling Exhibits. Internet site: http://www.bishopmuseum.org/exhibits/upcoming.html, 8/07/2002. Bishop Museum: World famous Bishop Museum now in Waikīkī. Informational brochure distributed by Bishop Museum, August, 2002. Blakeman, Karen. Sanctuary system moves forward: ‘This is going to strangle us, slowly,’ bottom fisherman says of restrictions. The Honolulu Advertiser, 3/16/2002. Blay, Chuck, and Siemers, Robert. Kauai’s Geologic History: A Simplified Guide. Kaua‘i: TEOK Investigations, 1998. Blowhole has history of danger. The Honolulu Advertiser, 7/01/2002. Briscoe, David. Kilauea lava flow slows, but still attracts thousands. The Garden Island, 8/29/2002. Bunnell, Dave. Pele’s Underground: Beyond the twilight awaits the deep, dark world of lava tubes. Hawaii Magazine, June, 1996. Burlingame, Burl. Archives built to house monarchy files. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 4/25/2004. Burlingame, Burl. Foster Botanical Gardens is a 20-acre, green oasis. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 2/1/2004. Burlingame, Burl. German immigrant built ‘Iolani Barracks. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 4/11/2004. Burlingame, Burl. Honolulu Hale has a strong Mediterranean look. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 5/09/2004. Burlingame, Burl. Kawaiahao is a Protestant showplace. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 6/06/2004. Burlingame, Burl. Temple is devoted to goddess of mercy. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 1/25/2004. Burlingame, Burl. Queen’s spirit prevails in historic home. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 3/21/2004. Bushnell, O.A., and Daws, Gaven; Illustrated by Feher, Joseph. The Illustrated Atlas of Hawaii. Aiea, Hawaii: Island Heritage Publishing, 1970. Chang, Lester. The end of Queen Lili‘uokalani’s rule. The Garden Island, 1/20/2002. Charles Reed Bishop. Kamehameha Schools. Internet site: http://www.ksbe.edu/endowment/bpbishop/CRBishop.html, 8/7/2002. Check out the Bowfin. The Honolulu Advertiser, 10/20/2002. Coleon, Shayna. Duke stamp creates sales swell. The Honolulu Advertiser, 8/27/2002. Clark, Hugh. Kilauea’s 18-year eruption far from longest, experts say. The Honolulu Advertiser, 1/2/2001. Clark, Hugh. Lava flows again crawl across Royal Gardens. The Honolulu Advertiser, 5/10/2001. Coleon, Shayna. Beach Boys share memories of Duke: Surfing legend remembered for ‘spreading aloha.’ The Honolulu Advertiser, 8/24/2002. Cook, Robert. Kīlauea sea slide could be catastrophic: Scientists recorded sizable slip in 2000. The Honolulu Advertiser, 2/28/2002. Culliney, John L. Islands in a Far Sea. San Francisco: Sierra Club Books, 1988. Daws, Gavan. Shoal of Time: A History of the Hawaiian Islands. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1968. Day, A. Grove. A Biographical Dictionary: History Makers of Hawaii. Honolulu: Mutual Publishing, 1984. Dayton, Kevin. Vandals deface Hilo landmarks. The Honolulu Advertiser, 11/14/2003. Dixon-Strong, Susan. Why is Kauai always the bull’s eye? Kauai Times, 10/04/1992. Duke Kahanamoku and the Dawn of Australian Surfing: at the “Boomerang Camp” Freshwater Beach, Sydney in the Southern Summer of 1915. Internet site: http://www.magna.com.au/c.prfbrown/the_duke.html, 2/18/2001. Duke Kahanamoku gets own stamp next year: Surfing legend latest U.S. icon feted by Postal Service. The Garden Island, 11/07/2001. Duke’s Fans Make Stamps a Big Sell. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 8/29/2002. Duke Kahanamoku—The legendary Hawaiian waterman and his influence on Kaua‘i: The Duke sends a surfboard to a Kaua‘i boy. The Garden Island, 8/23/2002. Food of the gods: Kalo and Hanalei Valley. Discover Kauai—The Garden Island. Island Heritage Publishing, 1998. Fujimori, Leila. Duke’s Day: Stamp’s unveiling honors 112th birthday. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 8/25/2002. Friary, Ned, and Bendure, Glenda. Hawaii: 5th Edition. Victoria, Australia: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd., 3/2000. Gima, Craig. Mix-up leads to cleanup of Duke’s lei: Lei had been put on the waterman’s statue for his 112th birthday. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 8/25/2002. Glauberman, Stu. Many helped pull Kauai from rubble: Compassion poured forth in wake of destruction. The Honolulu Advertiser, 9/05/1993. Gordon, Mike. People make Duke stamp a reality: Thousands of signatures help successful effort. The Honolulu Advertiser, 8/04/2002. Gordon, Mike. Surf-forecast buoys sinking in Washington’s red ink: North Shore already hit without warning. The Honolulu Advertiser, 3/18/1996. Handy, Emory, Bryan, Buck, Wise and Others. Ancient Hawaiian Civilization: A Series of Lectures Delivered at the Kamehameha Schools. Mutual Publishing: Honolulu, Hawaii, 1999. Hawai‘i Data Book: A Statistical Reference to Hawai‘i’s Social, Economic and Political Trends. Edited by Robert C. Schmitt. Honolulu: Mutual Publishing, 2002. Hawaii’s greatest sportsman earns his stamp in history. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 8/24/2002. Hawai‘i State Archives. Informational brochure distributed at Hawai‘i State Archives, Honolulu, HI, August, 2002. Hawaii State Library. Informational brochure distributed at Hawai‘i State Library, 478 South King St., Honolulu, HI. Prepared by Telephone Reference and Information Desk Unit, Hawai‘i State Library. Revised November, 1999. Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park. California: American Park Network, 1997. Hawai‘i Volcanoes: The Continuing Story. Las Vegas, Nevada: KC Publications. Hayworth, Philip. Hawai‘i’s Marine Zoos: The Waikīkī Aquarium, Sea Life Park and Maui Ocean Center showcase the incredible diversity of marine life flourishing in Hawaiian waters. Spirit of Aloha Magazine, May/June, 2002. Heathcote, Sheila. Sailing the Hawaiian way: KCC professor learns ancient skills aboard Hokule‘a, Hawaii Loa. The Garden Island. Hilo Area: Merrie Monarch Festival. Internet site: http://expedia.msn.com/wg/north_america/united_states/p20080.asp. Hilton Hawaiian Village: Bishop Museum at Kalia. Internet site: http://www.hilton.com/en/hi/hotels/information.jhtml, 8/07/2002. Hoover, Will. Honoring the legacy of Duke Kahanamoku. The Honolulu Advertiser, 8/25/2002. Hoover, Will. Kamehameha parade conquers all: Kama‘āina fans mix with malihini. The Honolulu Advertiser, 6/09/2002. Hoover, Will. Lei Queen contest? Let’s party!. The Honolulu Advertiser, 3/03/2002. Hoover, Will. Underneath the surface of the Arizona Memorial: Historian provides insight into 40-year-old landmark. The Honolulu Advertiser, 5/20/2002. Hula exhibit opens at museum. The Garden Island, 9/06/2000. Hurley, Timothy. Dry land blessed with water: Kaho‘olawe rain catchment, reservoir system completed. The Honolulu Advertiser, 12/06/2002. Ii, John Papa. Fragments of Hawaiian History. Translated by Mary Kawena Pukui; Edited by Dorothy B. Barrère. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1959. ‘Iolani Palace: Hawai‘i’s Royal Palace, Official Residence of King Kalākaua and Queen Lili‘uokalani, The Last Monarchs of Hawai‘i, 1882-1893. Honolulu: Friends of ‘Iolani Palace, 1987. Seiden, Allan. Hawai‘i: The Royal Legacy. Honolulu: Mutual Publishing, 1992. Introduction to Kilauea Volcano, Hawai‘i. USGS: Hawaiian Volcano Observatory. Internet site:http://wwwhvo.wr.usgs.gov/kilauea/, 12/12/2000. Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. Hawaii: University of Hawaii Press, 1984. Kahoolawe: Have you fallen in love? Planet Hawaii. Internet site: http://planet-hawaii.com/ph/kahoolawe.shtml, 2/03/2001. Kahanamoku stamp to get symbolic debut. The Honolulu Advertiser, 6/10/2002. Kahoolawe gets water system: The rain catchment will help in cultivating plant life on the island. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 12/07/2002. Kahoolawe planting ceremony needs another wet year. The Garden Island, 10/28/2002. Kakesako, Gregg K. Kahoolawe in Transition: Clearing the Way—The Navy cleanup’s end will bring the loss of lucrative civilian jobs. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 11/10/2003. Kamehameha and Kaumuali‘i. The Garden Island, 6/11/2002. Kanahele, George. Waikiki Historic Trail Markers. Internet site: www.waikikihistorictrail.com/waikikimap.html, 8/18/2002. Kayal, Michele. The power of poi: Hanalei chilled product gaining market appeal. The Honolulu Advertiser, 1/01/2001. Ke Ali‘i Bernice Pauahi Bishop. Internet site: http://members.aol.com/luke214/ksbe/ksbe.html. King Kamehameha V—Judiciary History Center of Hawai‘i. Internet site: http://www.jhchawaii.org/, 8/18/2002. Kitchen, John. Stargazing at the Summit. Spirit of Aloha Magazine, September 1991. Kitchen, John. The Lure of Kona’s Big Blue Marlin. Spirit of Aloha Magazine, August, 1998. Kneubuhl, Victoria Nālani. Ali‘iōlani Hale—A Sentinel in Time: A History of the Events in the Life of Hawai‘i’s Historic Judiciary Building. Judicial History Center, 2000. Krauss, Bob. Our Honolulu: All about plover lovers. The Honolulu Advertiser, 6/27/2003. Krauss, Bob, and Gleasner, Bill. Kauai. Aiea, Hawaii: Island Heritage Publishing, 1978. Kubota, Gary. Hundreds to be laid off as Kahoolawe work ends. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 11/20/2003. Kubota, Gary T. Kahoolawe in transition: The island transfers to state control this week as the clearing of ordnance continues. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 11/09/2003. Kubota, Gary T. Replanting roots of the past: A preservation group works to restore native species on the island of Kahoolawe. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 10/28/2002. Lava flow from Kilauea covers more road, hillside aglow. The Garden Island, 8/10/2002. Lava touches previously untouched portion of road. The Garden Island, 8/19/2002. Learn about tsunami at Big Island museum. The Honolulu Advertiser, 8/03/2003. LeDoux, Larry V. The land of cinder cones: Visit Pele’s paint pot and the bottomless pit at Haleakala National Park. Hawaii Magazine, June, 1993. Leidemann, Mike. City ready to unveil its dream Waikīkī. The Honolulu Advertiser, 10/29/2002. Leidemann, Mike. Moving out of Washington Place. The Honolulu Advertiser, 8/11/2002. Leidemann, Mike. Washington Place museum to focus on Lili‘uokalani. The Honolulu Advertiser, 8/11/2002. Manguchei, Kendyce. Poor man’s time machine uncovers Kaua‘i’s past at Maha‘ulepu. The Garden Island, 6/23/2002. Mauna Loa volcano said to be stirring again. The Garden Island, 10/01/2002. McMurray, Jeffrey. Negotiations over Midway hit impasse. The Garden Island, 3/14/2002. Memories of Duke Kahanamoku. Internet site: http://planet-hawaii.com/duke/memories.htm Merriam Webster’s Collegiate Dictionary: Tenth Edition. Springfield, Massachusetts: Merriam-Webster, Incorporated, 1996. Merrill, Nancy. 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Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [57] p. 266, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 2440. [58] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [59] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [60] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [61] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [62] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [63] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [64] p. 182. Seiden, Allan. Hawai‘i: The Royal Legacy. Honolulu: Mutual Publishing, 1992. [65] George Wilcox had studied at Yale College’s Sheffield Scientific School, where he earned an engineering degree that also helped him plan and build ditches to irrigate his Grove Farm Plantation. [66] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [67] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [68] Interpretive sign at heiau site, sponsored by Nā Kahu Hikina A Ka Lā, an all volunteer curator group preserving Wailua sites. [69] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [70] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [71] Interpretive sign at heiau site, sponsored by Nā Kahu Hikina A Ka Lā, an all volunteer curator group preserving Wailua sites. [72] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [73] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [74] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1986. [75] Interpretive sign at heiau site, sponsored by Nā Kahu Hikina A Ka Lā, an all volunteer curator group preserving Wailua sites. [76] Interpretive sign at heiau site, sponsored by Nā Kahu Hikina A Ka Lā, an all volunteer curator group preserving Wailua sites. [77] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [78] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [79] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [80] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [81] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1986. [82] Hurricane ‘Iniki struck Kaua‘i on September 11, 1992, causing more than $3 billion in property damage on Kaua‘i, including damage to over 70% of the island’s homes, and completely destroying 1,421 homes. (See Hurricanes and Tsunamis, Chapter 5.) [83] p. 27, Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu: Hawai‘i, 2002. [84] Hurricane ‘Iniki struck Kaua‘i on September 11, 1992, causing more than $3 billion in property damage on Kaua‘i, including damage to over 70% of the island’s homes, and completely destroying 1,421 homes. (See Hurricanes and Tsunamis, Chapter 5.) [85] A saying is noted: “a Lohi‘au-ipo i Hā‘ena lā, ‘ena‘ena ke aloha ke hiki mai,” which translates to “and Lohi‘au-ipo at Red-hot, hot the love that comes”, p. 34, Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [86] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [87] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [88] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974; also called Waiokapala‘e. [89] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [90] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [91] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [92] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [93] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [94] p. 94, Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [95] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [96] Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998. [97] Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998. [98] Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998. [99] Translation in Place Names of Hawaii (Pukui and Elbert) is given for place name of Kalalau on island of Hawai‘i. No mention is made of site on Kaua‘i mentioned here. [100] Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998. [101] Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998. [102] Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998. [103] Blay, Chuck, and Siemers, Robert. Kauai’s Geologic History: A Simplified Guide. Teok Investigations, 2004. [104] Frazier, Frances N. The True Story of Kaluaikoolau as Told by his Wife, Piilani. Kaua‘i Historical Society, 2001. [105] p. 110, Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [106] These dates are estimates; see Timeline for a more complete description of dates of arrival.
[108] At least some of the other walls of the fort were completed after Schäffer’s departure.
[110] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [111] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [112] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [113] p. 204, Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [114] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised and Expanded Edition. University of Hawaii Press, Honolulu, 1974. [115] Soboleski, Hank. History makers of Kaua‘i: Queen Emma. The Garden Island, 3/17/2002. [116] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [117] Soboleski, Hank. History makers of Kaua‘i: Queen Emma. The Garden Island, 3/17/2002. [118] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [119] Soboleski, Hank. History makers of Kaua‘i: Queen Emma. The Garden Island, 3/17/2002. [120] Current research shows that the first humans to reach Hawai‘i most likely came from the Marquesas Islands, about 2,500 miles to the southeast of Hawai‘i. The Marquesas are part of the South Pacific island group known as French Polynesia, an archipelago that includes 130 islands divided into five groups: the Gambier Islands, the Australs, the Tuamotus, the Society Islands, and the Marquesas. [121] p. 110, Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [122] The destruction of Menehune Ditch was caused by the creation of Menehune Road as well as the use of the ditch’s rocks for building projects, including Waimea’s Protestant church. [123] These dates are estimates. [124] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [125] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [126] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [127] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [128] p. 133, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 1225. [129] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [130] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. Also: “Live Offering” [131] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [132] p. 9, Wichman, Frederick B. Nā Pua Ali‘i O Kaua‘i: Ruling Chiefs of Kaua‘i. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 2003. [133] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1986. [134] p. 29, Wichman, Frederick B. Nā Pua Ali‘i O Kaua‘i: Ruling Chiefs of Kaua‘i. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 2003. [135] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [136] p. 59, Davies, Theo. An Account of the First Visit to the Island of Kauai in September 1860. Transcription from the original journal written in longhand on board S. S. “Ariel”, on the Atlantic, 22nd August, 1862. [137] p. 10, Wichman, Frederick B. Nā Pua Ali‘i O Kaua‘i: Ruling Chiefs of Kaua‘i. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 2003. [138] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [139] The grandfather of King Kaumuali‘i was Kekaulike, who was also the grandfather of King Kamehameha I. Kaumuali‘i’s granddaughter was Queen Kapi‘olani, the wife of King Kalākaua. [140] p. 58, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984. [141] p. 48, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984. [142] As the oldest son of Kamakahelei, Keawe was the half-brother of Kaumuali‘i. [143] p. 449, Desha, Stephen L., translated by Frazier, Frances N. Kamehameha and his Warrior Kekūhaupi‘o. Honolulu: Kamehameha Schools Press, 2000. [144] p. 62, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984. [145] pp. 61-62, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984. [146] Soboleski, Hank. History makers of Kaua‘i: Hawaiian queen Deborah Kapule. The Garden Island, 12/17/2000. [147] p. 112, 113, Wichman, Frederick B. Nā Pua Ali‘i O Kaua‘i: Ruling Chiefs of Kaua‘i. Honolulu: University ofHawai‘i Press, 2003. [148] p. 113, Wichman, Frederick B. Nā Pua Ali‘i O Kaua‘i: Ruling Chiefs of Kaua‘i. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 2003. [149] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [150] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [151] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [152] p. 182. Seiden, Allan. Hawai‘i: The Royal Legacy. Honolulu: Mutual Publishing, 1992. [153] Prince Albert Edward Kauikeaouli Leiopapa o Kamehameha. [154] Soboleski, Hank. History makers of Kaua‘i: Queen Emma. The Garden Island, 3/17/2002. [155] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [156] Soboleski, Hank. History makers of Kaua‘i: Queen Emma. The Garden Island, 3/17/2002. [157] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [158] Soboleski, Hank. History makers of Kaua‘i: Queen Emma. The Garden Island, 3/17/2002. [159] p. 55, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984. [160] For unknown reasons, Schäffer spelled the name “Elisabeth,” a spelling that persists today on a sign at the site. [161] At least some of the other walls of the fort were completed after Schäffer’s departure. [162] The Johnsons’ home was built in 1838 adjacent to the Wai‘oli Mission House. It was later moved and became known as the Hanalei Hotel. [163] During the 1979 excavation, researchers discovered ‘ili‘ili floor paving (layered pebbles) on the southern half of the structure. [164] p. 191, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934. [165] A Brief History of the Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church. Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church Bulletin, 2003. [166] p. 9. Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987. [167] Hart Wood (1880-1957) came to Hawai‘i in 1919 as chief designer for prominent Hawai‘i architect, C. W. Dickey, and eventually designed many prominent buildings and homes in Honolulu and other locations. [168] Hurricane ‘Iniki struck Kaua‘i on September 11, 1992, causing more than $3 billion in property damage on Kaua‘i, including damage to more than 70% of the island’s homes, and completely destroying 1,421 homes. [169] Kilohana Plantation Estates, 808-245-5608, 3-2087 Kaumuali‘i Highway, Līhu‘e; located between Kukui Grove Shopping Center and Kaua‘i Community College, 1.5 miles west of Līhu‘e on mauka side (mountain) side of Kaumuali‘i Highway. Open 9:30-9:30, Mon-Sat.; 9:30-5, Sun. Clydesdales horse-drawn carriage tour: 11-6:00, Mon.-Sat: 11-5 Sun. Sugarcane history tour: 246-9529; Historic high tea: Mon. and Sat. at 2 p.m. by reservation; Lū‘au: Tues, Thurs, 5 p.m.; [email protected]. [170] p. 4, Recollecting the Work of Rice Farmers. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [171] p. 4, Recollecting the Work of Rice Farmers. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [172] p. 3, The Rice Farms and Mills in the Landscape. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [173] Charlton served as British Consul for Hawai‘i in Honolulu from 1825 to 1846. [174] Princeville Ranch. p. 2, Na Leo ‘O Princeville. Princeville Corporation & Princeville Utilities Company, Inc., Summer, 2003. [175] p. 270, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [176] p. 275, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [177] Damon 1931:335. [178] Cook Chris. The Kaua‘i Movie Book: Films made on the Garden Island. Honolulu: Mutual Publishing, 1996. [179] p. 282, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [180] p. 22, Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu, Hawai‘i: Mutual Publishing, 2002. [181] p. 281, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. Note: Other accounts say the ride was about 40 miles in 4½ hours. [182] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [183] According to Dickey (1934): “the name HANALEI means wreath making. Two suggestions for the origin have been made, one that the mountains round about are like a wreath; another that its showers are constantly making rainbow wreaths.” p. 2, Dickey, Lyle A. Hanalei Place Names. Read at the meeting of the Kauai Historical Society, Oct. 22, 1934. On file at Kaua‘i Historical Society. [184] p. 108, Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998. [185] Bates 1854: 201-4, 206. [186] The population of Halele‘a went from 3,107 to 1,641 from 1835 to 1860. Page 49, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987. [187] Population estimates of the Hawaiian Islands at the time of Western contact range from less than 300,000 to more than 700,000. [188] p. 54, Davies, Theo. An Account of the First Visit to the Island of Kauai in September 1860. Transcription from the original journal written in longhand on board S. S. “Ariel”, on the Atlantic, 22nd August, 1862.
[190] See Hanalei in Ancient Times, Chapter 1. [191] [Hanalei Hawaii Resource Guide. Internet site: http://www.pe.net/~rksnow/hiscountyhanalei.htm, 12/27/2002.] [192] p. 267, Hazlett, Richard W. and Hyndman, Donald W. Roadside Geology of Hawai‘i. Missoula, Montana: Mountain Press Publishing Company, 1996. [193] See Timeline: c.200-500 A.D. [194] See Timeline: c.4,000 B.C. [195] See Timeline. [196] p. 2, Pre-Contact Hanalei. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990. [197] p. 6, Examples of Hanalei Land Commission Awards. Credit: Carol Silva, Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends ofKauai, 1990. [198] Wall, W. A. Map of Hanalei. Map and Survey, 1893. Traced from Government Survey Map No. 1833, August, 1913 [199] p. 9, Polk-Husted Directory of Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii, 1914. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [200] p. iv, Archaeological Investigations of Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, Hanalei, Island of Kaua‘i, by Lisa Shapiro, M.A., and William A. Shapiro, M.A., May, 1995. [201] p. 33, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 263. [202] Schnack 1915: 198 [203] p. 1, Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998. [204] p. 106, Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998. [205] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [206] Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998. [Halele‘a is also translated as “pleasure house.” [p. 3, Dickey, Lyle A. Hanalei Place Names. Read at the meeting of the Kauai Historical Society, Oct. 22, 1934. On file at Kaua‘i Historical Society.] [207] p. 266, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 2441. [208] Name meanings come from: Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Place Names ofHawaii: Revised and Expanded Edition. University of Hawaii Press, Honolulu, 1974. Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998; and Dickey, Lyle A. Hanalei Place Names. [209] Dickey, Lyle A. Hanalei Place Names. Read at the meeting of the Kauai Historical Society, Oct. 22, 1934. On file at Kaua‘i Historical Society. [210] Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998. [211] Dickey, Lyle A. Hanalei Place Names. Read at the meeting of the Kauai Historical Society, Oct. 22, 1934. On file at Kaua‘i Historical Society. [212] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [213] Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998. [214] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [215] Dickey, Lyle A. Hanalei Place Names. Read at the meeting of the Kauai Historical Society, Oct. 22, 1934. On file at Kaua‘i Historical Society. [216] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised and Expanded Edition. University of Hawaii Press, Honolulu, 1974. [217] Dickey, Lyle A. Hanalei Place Names. Read at the meeting of the Kauai Historical Society, Oct. 22, 1934. On file at Kaua‘i Historical Society. Another meaning is “To request to the gods in prayer.” Wichman also suggests other means of Waipā: “‘touched water,’ or Wai-pa‘a, ‘dammed-up water,’...the translation ‘dammed-up water’ refers to the frequent building up of a sand bar that prevents the stream from flowing directly into the ocean,” P. 114, Wichman, Frederick B.Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998. [218] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised and Expanded Edition. University of Hawaii Press, Honolulu, 1974. [219] p. 3, Dickey, Lyle A. Hanalei Place Names. Read at the meeting of the Kauai Historical Society, Oct. 22, 1934. On file at Kaua‘i Historical Society. [220] Frederick B. Wichman wrote: “According to Lyle A. Dickey the name is pronounced as one word, Lumahai, so named for a medicinal plant and also a string figure (a cat’s cradle)”, p. 116, Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998. [221] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [222] Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998. Also, “Fierce water.” Dickey, Lyle A. Hanalei Place Names. Read at the meeting of the Kauai Historical Society, Oct. 22, 1934. On file at Kaua‘i Historical Society. Dickey adds, “as the WAINIHA stream often is when in flood.” p. 3, Dickey, Lyle A. Hanalei Place Names. Read at the meeting of the Kauai Historical Society, Oct. 22, 1934. On file at Kaua‘i Historical Society. [223] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. A saying is noted: “a Lohi‘au-ipo i Hā‘ena lā, ‘ena‘ena ke aloha ke hiki mai,” which translates to “and Lohi‘au-ipo at Red-hot, hot the love that comes.” [P. 34, Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University ofHawaii Press, 1974. [224] pp. 322-323, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That IslandGarden. Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931. [225] p. 110, Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998. [226] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised and Expanded Edition. University of Hawaii Press, Honolulu, 1974. [227] Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998. [228] Hīhīmanu means “Great Ray Fish (from its shape),” or “Various sting rays (Dasyatidae) and eagle rays (Actobatus narinari).” [Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1986.] Manta rays may have a wingspan of up to 22 feet. [229] p. 109, Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998. [230] p. 239, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [231] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised and Expanded Edition. University of Hawaii Press, Honolulu, 1974 [232] Island Folklore, Kauai Magazine, Fall, 1995. [233] Island Folklore, Kauai Magazine, Fall, 1995. [234] p. 113, Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998 [235] p. 113, Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998. citing Akina’s “Story of the Menehune People.” [236] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised and Expanded Edition. University of Hawaii Press, Honolulu, 1974. [237] Moffat, Riley M., and Fitzpatrick, Gary L. Surveying the Māhele. Honolulu: Editions Limited, 1995. [238] p. 104, Whitney, Henry M. The Hawaiian Guide Book for Travelers. 1875. Reprint. Rutland, Vt.: Tuttle, 1970.
[240] Calhoun, R. Scott, and Fletcher, Charles H. Measured and predicted sediment yield from a subtropical, heavy rainfall, steep-sided river basin: Hanalei, Kauai, Hawaiian Islands. Geomorphology 30 (1999) 213-226. [241] p. 172, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 1590. [242] p. 108, Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998. [243] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [244] p. 105, Moffat, Riley M., and Fitzpatrick, Gary L. Surveying the Māhele. Honolulu: Editions Limited, 1995. [245] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised and Expanded Edition. University of Hawaii Press, Honolulu, 1974 [246] p. 138, Korn, Alfons L. The Victorian Visitors; An Account of the Hawaiian Kingdom, 1861-1866. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1958. [247] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised and Expanded Edition. University of Hawaii Press, Honolulu, 1974. [248] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1986. Wai means “water,” or when it is used in a place name, wai means “river” or “stream.” Pā is defined as “to touch, get, contact, reach, gain control of, hit, experience.” [249] p. 114, Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998. [250] Hanalei Place Names (1934), gave the meaning of “Waipa” as “walled off water -- perhaps because of the constant sand bar at the mouth of the WAIPA STREAM.” Page 3, Dickey, Lyle A. Hanalei Place Names. Read at the meeting of the Kauai Historical Society, Oct. 22, 1934. On file at Kaua‘i Historical Society. [251] Dark-rumped petrels, Pterodroma phaeopygia sandwichensis. [252] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1986. [253] p. 3, Dickey, Lyle A. Hanalei Place Names. Read at the meeting of the Kauai Historical Society, Oct. 22, 1934. On file at Kaua‘i Historical Society. [254] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised and Expanded Edition. University of Hawaii Press, Honolulu, 1974. [255] Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998. [256] p. 115, Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998, citing Rice, Hawaiian Legends, pp. 47-48. [257] The authors noted, “Usually, dryland terraces are assembled from locally derived and unaltered rock. These are two sites that exhibit an otherwise undocumented construction technique for the area and may represent agricultural, occupational and tool manufacturing processes...Habitation attributes include platforms, terraces, enclosures and walls...settlement in the surrounding hillsides involved the placement of habitation features upslope from and overlooking agricultural terraces.” p. 80, Archaeological Investigations of Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, Hanalei, Island of Kaua‘i, by Lisa Shapiro, M.A., and William A. Shapiro, M.A., May, 1995. [258] p. 323, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931. [259] p. 62, Archaeological Investigations of Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, Hanalei, Island of Kaua‘i, by Lisa Shapiro, M.A., and William A. Shapiro, M.A., May, 1995. [260] p. 65, Archaeological Investigations of Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, Hanalei, Island of Kaua‘i, by Lisa Shapiro, M.A., and William A. Shapiro, M.A., May, 1995. [261] The China Ditch intake on the Hanalei River is about 3.7 miles from the ocean. [262] pp. 67-68, Archaeological Investigations of Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, Hanalei, Island of Kaua‘i, by Lisa Shapiro, M.A., and William A. Shapiro, M.A., May, 1995. [263] p.68, Archaeological Investigations of Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, Hanalei, Island of Kaua‘i, by Lisa Shapiro, M.A., and William A. Shapiro, M.A., May, 1995. [264] P. 68, Archaeological Investigations of Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, Hanalei, Island of Kaua‘i, by Lisa Shapiro, M.A., and William A. Shapiro, M.A., May, 1995. [265] “This modern diversion connects with the historic ditch south of the tunnel systems and the open ditch continues north for approximately 1,000 m through the tunnel systems and around the bend of the Hanalei River in the east side of the valley. Two historic artifact concentrations are recorded at different locations along the ditch.” Archaeological Investigations of Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, Hanalei, Island of Kaua‘i, by Lisa Shapiro, M.A., and William A. Shapiro, M.A., May, 1995. [266] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [267] p. 104, Whitney, Henry M. The Hawaiian Guide Book for Travelers. 1875. Reprint. Rutland, Vt.: Tuttle, 1970. [268] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1986. According to legend, “not so kind were the winds ‘Ō-lau-niu-o-Pu‘upoa, ‘coconut-leaf-piercing wind of Pu‘upoa,’ and Pae-hahi-o-ka-iholena, ‘Row of trampled iholena banana trees.’” P. 109, Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998, citing: Winds of Kauai, translated by Mary Kawena Pūku‘i (Ka Na‘i Aupuni, June 18-20, 1906). [269] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised and Expanded Edition. University of Hawaii Press, Honolulu, 1974. [270] pp. 115-116, Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University ofHawai‘i Press, 1998, citing Knudsen, Teller of Hawaiian Tales. [271] p. 60, Narrative of a Voyage Round the World, Performed in Her Majesty’s Ship Sulphur, During the Years 1836-1842, Including Details of the Naval Operations in China, From Dec. 1840, to Nov. 1841. Published under the Authority of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, by Captain Sir Edward Belcher, Commander of the Expedition, Volume I,London: Henry Colburn, Publisher, Great Marlborough Street, 1843. [272] p. 61, Narrative of a Voyage Round the World, Performed in Her Majesty’s Ship Sulphur, During the Years 1836-1842, Including Details of the Naval Operations in China, From Dec. 1840, to Nov. 1841. Published under the Authority of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, by Captain Sir Edward Belcher, Commander of the Expedition, Volume I,London: Henry Colburn, Publisher, Great Marlborough Street, 1843. [273] p. 281, Narrative of a Voyage Round the World, Performed in Her Majesty’s Ship Sulphur, During the Years 1836-1842, Including Details of the Naval Operations in China, From Dec. 1840, to Nov. 1841. Published under the Authority of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, by Captain Sir Edward Belcher, Commander of the Expedition, Volume I, London: Henry Colburn, Publisher, Great Marlborough Street, 1843. [274] p. 61, Narrative of a Voyage Round the World, Performed in Her Majesty’s Ship Sulphur, During the Years 1836-1842, Including Details of the Naval Operations in China, From Dec. 1840, to Nov. 1841. Published under the Authority of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, by Captain Sir Edward Belcher, Commander of the Expedition, Volume I,London: Henry Colburn, Publisher, Great Marlborough Street, 1843. [275] p. 239, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [276] Polynesian settlement of the Hawaiian Islands is thought to have occurred sometime between 200 and 700 A.D. (SeeTimeline c.200-500 A.D.) [277] The estimated date of Polynesians first reaching the Hawaiian Islands is c.200-700 A.D. [278] Population estimates of the Hawaiian Islands at the time of Western contact range from less than 300,000 to more than 700,000. [279] Ka‘ie‘iewaho means “Outer Ka‘ie‘ie,” in reference to the ‘ie‘ie vine. Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of HawaiiPress, 1974. [280] During Kamehameha’s 1796 attempt to invade Kaua‘i, a few advance troops apparently made it to Kaua‘i, but were killed when they reached shore. [281] p. 62, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984. [282] p. 61-62, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984. [283] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [284] p. 4, Westerners Arrive. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990. [285] p. 128, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984. [286] p. 240, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [287] p. 184, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934. [288] p. 2, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843). Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934. Mary C. Alexander is the daughter of William DeWitt Alexander. [289] p. 2, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843). Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934. [290] p. 2, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843). Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934. [291] p. 183, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934. [292] p. 190, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934. [293] p. 325, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931. The area was also referred to as Betelema by Reverend Johnson in 1853. [294] p. 181, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934. [295] Riznik, Barnes. Digging Down under Wai‘oli Mission Hall. Historic Hawai‘i News, 1980; and Riznik, Barnes.Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987. [296] Riznik, Barnes. Digging Down under Wai‘oli Mission Hall. Historic Hawai‘i News, 1980; and Riznik, Barnes.Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987. [297] p. 2240, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [298] p. 183, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934. [299] p. 15, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987. [300] p. 190, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934. [301] pp. 183-184, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii.Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934. [302] p. 184, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934. [303] p. 184, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934. [304] p. 182, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934. [305] p. 191, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934. [306] The population estimate decreased to 1,641 by 1860. P. 5, Westerners Arrive. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990. [307] p. 12, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843).Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934. [308] p. 325, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931. [309] p. 184, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934. [310] p. 2, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843). Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934. [311] p. 195, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934. [312] p. 195, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934. [313] p. 190, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934. [314] p. 190, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934. [315] p. 8, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987. [316] p. 328, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931. [317] p. 188, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934. [318] p. 191, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934. [319] p. 12, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843).Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934. [320] p. 12, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987. [321] p. 43, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987. [322] p. 3, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843). Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934. [323] p. 3, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843). Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934. [324] p. 10, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843).Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934. [325] p. 11, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843).Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934. [326] p. 242, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [327] p. 196, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934. [328] p. 199, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934. [329] p. 245, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [330] p. 245, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [331] p. 245, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [332] pp. 243, 244, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [333] pp. 12-13, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843).Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934. [334] pp. 12-13, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843).Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934. [335] p. 329, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931. [336] p. 329, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931. [337] p. 14, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843).Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934. [338] p. 199, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934. [339] p. 197, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934. [340] p. 12, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843).Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934. [341] p. 12, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843).Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934. [342] p. 15, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843).Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934. [343] p. 10, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987. [344] p. 15, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843).Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934. [345] Lease—Kamehameha III, To William P. Alexander, October 12, 1841 (Translation). On file at Grove Farm Museum, Līhu‘e, Kaua‘i. [346] p. 9, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843). Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934. [347] p. 247, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [348] p. 19, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843).Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934. [349] p. 247, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [350] p. 247, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [351] Waioli Mission District—National Register of Historic Places: Inventory—Nomination Form. United States Department of the Interior; National Park Service. Also: Waioli Church—National Register of Historic Places: Statement of Architectural and Historical Significance. United States Department of the Interior; National Park Service. Also: A Brief History of the Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church. Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church Bulletin, 2003. [352] p. 9. Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987. [353] Waioli Church—National Register of Historic Places: Statement of Architectural and Historical Significance, United States Department of the Interior; National Park Service, citing Alexander, James M.—Mission Life in Hawaii. Memoir of Rev. William P. Alexander. Pacific Press Publishing Co., 1888. [354] p. 248, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [355] Historic Waioli Church. Waioli Hui‘ia United Church of Christ, brochure. [356] p. 19, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843).Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934. [357] p. 38, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987. [358] p. 278, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [359] pp. 43-44, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987. [360] p. 150, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984. [361] p. 249, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [362] p. 276, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917; citing p. 169, Thrum’s Annual, 1903. [363] p. 258, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [364] p. 259, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [365] p. 262, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [366] p. 261, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [367] p. 271, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [368] p. 5, Ethel Damon’s Interviews with G. N. Wilcox, May 29, 1930. On file at Grove Farm, Kaua‘i. [369] p. 6, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917. [370] p. 235, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [371] p. 235, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [372] p. 35, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987. [373] p. 263, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [374] p. 12, Ethel Damon’s Interviews with G. N. Wilcox, Feb. 14, 1921. On file at Grove Farm, Kaua‘i. [375] p. 1, Report of Waioli Select School for 1848. On file at Grove Farm, Kaua‘i. [376] p. 213, Alexander, William DeWitt. Private Journal of a Tour of Kauai (Written by William DeWitt Alexander, when a boy of sixteen, in 1849). Read to the Kauai Historical Society, May 8, 1933. [377] p. 271, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [378] p. 32, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987. [379] p. 49, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987. [380] pp. 4-5, Ethel Damon’s Interviews with G. N. Wilcox, May 29, 1930. On file at Grove Farm, Kaua‘i. George Norton Wilcox was the son of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, who served as missionaries at Wai‘oli from 1846 to 1869. [381] Report of the Committee on the Support of Mr. Wilcox and the Waioli Select School, 1861. On file at Grove Farm, Kaua‘i. [382] The Hanalei English School became a public school in 1881. [383] Report of Waioli Select School From July 16th, to May 12th, 1863. On file at Grove Farm, Kaua‘i. [384] Report of Waioli Select School From July 16th, to May 12th, 1863. On file at Grove Farm, Kaua‘i. [385] Report of Waioli Select School From July 16th, to May 12th, 1863. On file at Grove Farm, Kaua‘i. [386] Report of Waioli Select School From July 16th, to May 12th, 1863. On file at Grove Farm, Kaua‘i. [387] King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917. [388] pp. 15-16, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917. [389] p. 6, Ethel Damon’s Interviews with G. N. Wilcox, March 8, 1932. On file at Grove Farm, Kaua‘i. [390] p. 390, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [391] p. 393, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [392] Georg Anton Schäffer (1779-1836). [393] pp. 7-8, Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu: Hawai‘i, 2002. [394] p. 8, Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu: Hawai‘i, 2002. [395] Bird 1964: 194-5. [396] pp. 221-222, Bingham, Hiram. A Residence of Twenty-One Years in the Sandwich Islands. Hartford: Hezekiah Huntington; New York: Sherman Converse, 1848. [397] pp. 221-222, Bingham, Hiram. A Residence of Twenty-One Years in the Sandwich Islands. Hartford: Hezekiah Huntington; New York: Sherman Converse, 1848. [398] pp. 221-222, Bingham, Hiram. A Residence of Twenty-One Years in the Sandwich Islands. Hartford: Hezekiah Huntington; New York: Sherman Converse, 1848. [399] Cited on pp. 321-322, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in ThatIsland Garden. Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931. [400] p. 5, Ethel Damon’s Interviews with G. N. Wilcox, March 12, 1932. On file at Grove Farm, Kaua‘i. [401] p. 5, Ethel Damon’s Interviews with G. N. Wilcox, March 12, 1932. On file at Grove Farm, Kaua‘i. [402] p. 112, 113, Wichman, Frederick B. Nā Pua Ali‘i O Kaua‘i: Ruling Chiefs of Kaua‘i. Honolulu: University ofHawai‘i Press, 2003. [403] p. 113, Wichman, Frederick B. Nā Pua Ali‘i O Kaua‘i: Ruling Chiefs of Kaua‘i. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 2003. [404] p. 105, Moffat, Riley M., and Fitzpatrick, Gary L. Surveying the Māhele. Honolulu: Editions Limited, 1995. [405] p. 7, Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu: Hawai‘i, 2002. [406] p. 2, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917. [407] p. 109, Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998. [408] p. 67, Narrative of a Voyage Round the World, Performed in Her Majesty’s Ship Sulphur, During the Years 1836-1842, Including Details of the Naval Operations in China, From Dec. 1840, to Nov. 1841. Published under the Authority of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, by Captain Sir Edward Belcher, Commander of the Expedition, Volume I,London: Henry Colburn, Publisher, Great Marlborough Street, 1843. [409] p. 335, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931. pp. 278-279, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [410] p. 334, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931. [411] Elsie Wilcox spells his name Koka in: Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917, but Josephine Wundenberg King spells the name Goka in: King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917. [412] p. 5, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917. [413] p. 279, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [414] pp. 10-11, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917. [415] p. 281, Narrative of a Voyage Round the World, Performed in Her Majesty’s Ship Sulphur, During the Years 1836-1842, Including Details of the Naval Operations in China, From Dec. 1840, to Nov. 1841. Published under the Authority of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, by Captain Sir Edward Belcher, Commander of the Expedition, Volume I, London: Henry Colburn, Publisher, Great Marlborough Street, 1843. [416] p. 271, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917, citing Alexander’s History. [417] p. 332, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931. [418] pp. 332-333, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That IslandGarden. Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931. [419] p. 13, Ethel Damon’s Interviews with G. N. Wilcox, March, 1921. On file at Grove Farm, Kaua‘i. [420] p. 186, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931. [421] p. 278-9, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [422] p. 271, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [423] p. 277, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [424] p. 14, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917. [425] pp. 176-177, Dorrance, William H., and Morgan, Francis S. SugarIslands: The 165-Year Story of Sugar in Hawai‘i. Honolulu: Mutual Publishing, 2000. [426] pp. 176-177, Dorrance, William H., and Morgan, Francis S. SugarIslands: The 165-Year Story of Sugar in Hawai‘i. Honolulu: Mutual Publishing, 2000. [427] p. 347, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931. [428] p. 278, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [429] p. 278, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [430] Charlton served as British Consul for Hawai‘i in Honolulu from 1825 to 1846. [431] Princeville Ranch. p. 2, Na Leo ‘O Princeville. Princeville Corporation & Princeville Utilities Company, Inc., Summer, 2003. [432] p. 270, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [433] p. 275, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [434] Damon 1931:335. [435] p. 275, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [436] p. 275, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [437] The 28,600 acres of land granted to maka‘āinana (commoners) was less than 1% of the land total of about 4.5 million acres, but much of it was located in prime agricultural areas. [438] See Timeline: 1848. [439] Pacific Commercial Advertiser 2/19/1857, p, 2) [440] Pacific Commercial Advertiser 2/19/1857, p, 2) [441] p. 272, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [442] pp. 16-17, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917. [443] A holokū is a loose dress (e.g., mu‘umu‘u). [444] pp. 16-17, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917. [445] pp. 16-17, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917. [446] p. 272, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [447] p. 272, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [448] p. 341, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931. [449] Kikiula was later known as the Princeville Plantation House and then the Princeville Ranch House. [450] p. 3, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917. [451] p. 3, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917. [452] p. 272, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kaua‘i Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [453] p. 237, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917. [454] p. 344, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931. [455] p. 334, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931. [456] p. 149, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984. [457] p. 350, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931. [458] p. 350, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931. [459] p. 334, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931. [460] Royal Hawaiian Agricultural Society 1851:52-4. [461] p. 273, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [462] p. 350, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931. [463] p. 273, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [464] p. 273, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [465] p. 273, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [466] p. 273, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [467] p. 273, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [468] Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden. Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931. [469] p. 52, Davies, Theo. An Account of the First Visit to the Island of Kauai in September 1860. Transcription from the original journal written in longhand on board S. S. “Ariel”, on the Atlantic, 22nd August, 1862. [470] p. 10, Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu: Hawai‘i, 2002. [471] [472] p. 181, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984. [473] p. 181, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984. [474] p. 11, Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu: Hawai‘i, 2002. [475] The Legacy of a Young Hawaiian Prince. Na Leo ‘O Princeville: A publication of Princeville Corporation & Princeville Utilities Company, Inc., Spring, 2003. [476] p. 4, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917. [477] p. 277, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [478] p. 4, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917. [479] p. 2, King, Josephine Wundenberg. Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917. [480] p. 15, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917. [481] p. 5, King, Josephine Wundenberg. Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917. [482] p. 6, King, Josephine Wundenberg. Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917. [483] The full name of the prince was Prince Albert Edward Kauikeaouli Leiopapa o Kamehameha, also known as Ka Haku o Hawai‘i (The Prince of Hawai‘i). [484] pp. 9-10, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917 [485] pp. 9-10, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917. [486] pp. 9-10, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917 [487] pp. 9-10, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917. [488] p. 182, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984. [489] Theophilus Harris Davies (1833-1898). [490] The ‘ōahi (fire throwing) ceremony also took place at the cliffs of Mākua and Kāmaile. [491] Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden. Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931. [492] p. 300, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 2735. [493] p. 57, Davies, Theo. An Account of the First Visit to the Island of Kauai in September 1860. Transcription from the original journal written in longhand on board S. S. “Ariel”, on the Atlantic, 22nd August, 1862. [494] p. 57, Davies, Theo. An Account of the First Visit to the Island of Kauai in September 1860. Transcription from the original journal written in longhand on board S. S. “Ariel”, on the Atlantic, 22nd August, 1862. [495] Davies noted: “At about two o‘clock we arrived at Haula, the royal flag being hoisted over the grass house prepared for our reception. The Prince of Hawaii, the Queen’s mother, and the Governor of Hawaii with numerous servants had come around by boats, bringing our provisions etc. with them. We gladly alighted, amongst a troop of native spectators.” [P. 58, Davies, Theo. An Account of the First Visit to the Island of Kauai in September 1860. Transcription from the original journal written in longhand on board S. S. “Ariel”, on the Atlantic, 22nd August, 1862.] [496] p. 59, Davies, Theo. An Account of the First Visit to the Island of Kauai in September 1860. Transcription from the original journal written in longhand on board S. S. “Ariel”, on the Atlantic, 22nd August, 1862. [497] p. 278, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [498] p. 278, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [499] p. 12, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917. [500] p. 279, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [501] p. 257, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [502] p. 54, Davies, Theo. An Account of the First Visit to the Island of Kauai in September 1860. Transcription from the original journal written in longhand on board S. S. “Ariel”, on the Atlantic, 22nd August, 1862. [503] p. 52, Davies, Theo. An Account of the First Visit to the Island of Kauai in September 1860. Transcription from the original journal written in longhand on board S. S. “Ariel”, on the Atlantic, 22nd August, 1862. [504] p. 139, Korn, Alfons L. The Victorian Visitors; An Account of the Hawaiian Kingdom, 1861-1866. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1958. [505] pp. 137-138, Korn, Alfons L. The Victorian Visitors; An Account of the Hawaiian Kingdom, 1861-1866. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1958. [506] pp. 17-18, Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu: Hawai‘i, 2002. [507] pp. 183-184, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984. [508] p. 17, Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu: Hawai‘i, 2002. [509] Korn, Alfons L. The Victorian Visitors; An Account of the Hawaiian Kingdom, 1861-1866. Honolulu: Universityof Hawaii Press, 1958. [510] p. 183, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984. [511] Korn [512] p. 13, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917. [513] p. 13, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917. [514] p. 13, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917. [515] pp. 183-184, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984. [516] p. 279, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [517] p. 177, Korn, Alfons L. The Victorian Visitors; An Account of the Hawaiian Kingdom, 1861-1866. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1958. [518] p. 177, Korn, Alfons L. The Victorian Visitors; An Account of the Hawaiian Kingdom, 1861-1866. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1958. [519] p. 178, Korn, Alfons L. The Victorian Visitors; An Account of the Hawaiian Kingdom, 1861-1866. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1958. [520] p. 377, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [521] Elsie Wilcox noted that the mill was “set up by Mr. John Webster, who came out for the purpose.” P. 280, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [522] p. 4, Westerners Arrive. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990. [523] Personal letter of Anna S. Wundenberg Wright, 1921, entitled “The Hanalei Valley.” On file at Kaua‘i Historical Society. [524] p. 278, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [525] p. 278, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [526] p. 14, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917. [527] p. 178, Korn, Alfons L. The Victorian Visitors; An Account of the Hawaiian Kingdom, 1861-1866. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1958. [528] p. 138, Korn, Alfons L. The Victorian Visitors; An Account of the Hawaiian Kingdom, 1861-1866. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1958. [529] p. 6, Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu: Hawai‘i, 2002. [530] p. 278, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.]
[532] p. 9, Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu: Hawai‘i, 2002. [533] p. 280, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [534] p. 126, Korn, Alfons L. The Victorian Visitors; An Account of the Hawaiian Kingdom, 1861-1866. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1958. [535] p. 185, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984. [536] p. 281, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [537] p. 186, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984. [538] p. 22, Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu: Hawai‘i, 2002. [539] p. 281, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [540] p. 282, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [541] p. 733, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931. [542] p. 103, Whitney, Henry M. The Hawaiian Guide Book for Travelers. 1875. Reprint. Rutland, Vt.: Tuttle, 1970. [543] p. 104, Whitney, Henry M. The Hawaiian Guide Book for Travelers. 1875. Reprint. Rutland, Vt.: Tuttle, 1970. [544] Bird, Isabella L. Six Months in the Sandwich Islands. 1875, Reprint. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press for Friends of the Library of Hawaii, 1964. [545] [546] p. 282, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [547] Bird, Isabella L. Six Months in the Sandwich Islands. 1875, Reprint. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press for Friends of the Library of Hawaii, 1964. [548] From a report by the Princeville Plantation manager. [p. 5, Westerners Arrive. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990.] [549] p. 283, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. Wilcox notes: “The company was as follows: Colonel Spalding one-eighth, S. G. Allen one-eighth, Carl Tuch one-eighth, C. Koelling five-eighth.” [550] p. 283, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [551] Princeville Ranch. p. 2, Na Leo ‘O Princeville. Princeville Corporation & Princeville Utilities Company, Inc., Summer, 2003. [552] p. 283, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [553] p. 283, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [554] p. 72, Wilcox, Carol. Sugar Water: Hawai‘i’s Plantation Ditches. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1996. [555] Princeville Ranch. p. 2, Na Leo ‘O Princeville. Princeville Corporation & Princeville Utilities Company, Inc., Summer, 2003. [556] p. 23, Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu: Hawai‘i, 2002. [557] Prince Albert passed away before the gift could be presented. [558] Helen Kapililani Sanborn Davis: Reminiscences of a Life in the Islands, as told to Maili Yardley. Honolulu,Hawaii, Native Books, 2000. [559] National Register of Historic Places: United States Department of the Interior; National Park Service. [560] p. 273, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [561] p. 39, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [562] p. 27, Helen Kapililani Sanborn Davis: Reminiscences of a Life in the Islands, as told to Maili Yardley. Honolulu,Hawaii, Native Books, 2000. [563] p. 27, Helen Kapililani Sanborn Davis: Reminiscences of a Life in the Islands, as told to Maili Yardley. Honolulu,Hawaii, Native Books, 2000. [564] p. 14, Princeville Plantation Ranch House. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990. [565] p. 13, Helen Kapililani Sanborn Davis: Reminiscences of a Life in the Islands, as told to Maili Yardley. Honolulu,Hawaii, Native Books, 2000. [566] p. 14, Princeville Plantation Ranch House. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990. [567] p. 14, Princeville Plantation Ranch House. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990. [568] p. 31, Helen Kapililani Sanborn Davis: Reminiscences of a Life in the Islands, as told to Maili Yardley. Honolulu,Hawaii, Native Books, 2000. [569] pp. 16-17, Helen Kapililani Sanborn Davis: Reminiscences of a Life in the Islands, as told to Maili Yardley.Honolulu, Hawaii, Native Books, 2000. [570] pp. 16-17, Helen Kapililani Sanborn Davis: Reminiscences of a Life in the Islands, as told to Maili Yardley.Honolulu, Hawaii, Native Books, 2000. [571] p. 21, Helen Kapililani Sanborn Davis: Reminiscences of a Life in the Islands, as told to Maili Yardley. Honolulu,Hawaii, Native Books, 2000. [572] p. 21, Helen Kapililani Sanborn Davis: Reminiscences of a Life in the Islands, as told to Maili Yardley. Honolulu,Hawaii, Native Books, 2000. [573] National Register of Historic Places: United States Department of the Interior; National Park Service. [574] p. 14, Princeville Plantation Ranch House. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990. [575] p. 14, Princeville Plantation Ranch House. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990. [576] p. 14, Helen Kapililani Sanborn Davis: Reminiscences of a Life in the Islands, as told to Maili Yardley. Honolulu,Hawaii, Native Books, 2000. [577] Whitney 1890: 107-8. [578] pp. 276-277, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [579] pp. 276-277, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [580] p. 5, Westerners Arrive. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990. [581] p. 340, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931. [582] p. 341, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931. [583] p. 341, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931. [584] p. 340, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931. [585] p. 232, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984. [586] Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984. [587] p. 243, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [588] p. 8, The Hanalei Hotel. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990. [589] p. 8, The Hanalei Hotel. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990. [590] p. 8, The Hanalei Hotel. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990. [dxci] p. 7, The Bridge and the Roads. Infrastructure and Commerce in Rice Times: New Technology makes Hanalei more accessible. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dxcii] Royal Hawaiian Agricultural Society 1851:52-4. [dxciii] p. 99, Whitney, Henry M. The Hawaiian Guide Book for Travelers. 1875. Reprint. Rutland, Vt.: Tuttle, 1970. [dxciv] p. 14. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990. [dxcv] p. 14. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990. [dxcvi] p. 56, Davies, Theo. An Account of the First Visit to the Island of Kauai in September 1860. Transcription from the original journal written in longhand on board S. S. “Ariel”, on the Atlantic, 22nd August, 1862. [dxcvii] p. 7, The Bridge and the Roads. Infrastructure and Commerce in Rice Times: New Technology makes Hanalei more accessible, citing a “statistical, commercial and tourist guide” written by George Browser. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dxcviii] p. 15, King, Josephine Wundenberg. Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917. [dxcix] p. 273, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [dc] Hanalei Bridge is located on Route 560 at Milepost 1.19. [dci] Cook, Chris. Robeson, Wilcox honored for preserving Hanalei Bridge: Statewide Historic Hawai‘i Foundation conference opens. The Garden Island, 5/15/2003. [dcii] The Garden Island, 8/06/1912. [dciii] p. 7, The Bridge and the Roads. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dciv] The Garden Island, 1/1/1913. **[dcv]** Wai‘oli Bridge is located just west of Hanalei town. [dcvi] Waipā Bridge is located just west of Hanalei town. [dcvii] Waikoko Bridge is located just west of Hanalei town. [dcviii] New Church is Dedicated. The Garden Island, 10/22/1912. [dcix] A type of column in Greek architecture originating with the Dorians. [dcx] Hanalei’s Beautiful Church Edifice. The Garden Island, 10/29/1912. [dcxi] Hanalei’s Beautiful New Church Edifice. The Garden Island, 10/29/1912. [dcxii] Hanalei’s Beautiful Church Edifice. The Garden Island, 10/29/1912. [dcxiii] Hanalei’s Beautiful Church Edifice. The Garden Island, 10/29/1912. [dcxiv] Hart Wood (1880-1957) came to Hawai‘i in 1919 as chief designer for prominent Hawai‘i architect, C. W. Dickey, and eventually designed many prominent buildings and homes in Honolulu and other locations. [dcxv] p. 69, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987. [dcxvi] p. 67, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987. [dcxvii] Līhu‘e contractor Sam B. Goss was hired to complete the Wai‘oli mission restoration work. [dcxviii] p. 70, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987. [dcxix] p. 70, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987. [dcxx] p. 396, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [dcxxi] p. 396, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [dcxxii] p. 396, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [dcxxiii] p. 70, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987. [dcxxiv] p. 65, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987. [dcxxv] p. 8, Medical. Infrastructure and Commerce in Rice Times: New Technology makes Hanalei more accessible.Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dcxxvi] p. 21, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303) [dcxxvii] p. 79, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987. [dcxxviii] pp. 17-18, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303) [dcxxix] p. 8, Waioli Park, Infrastructure and Commerce in Rice Times: New Technology makes Hanalei more accessible. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dcxxx] p. 396, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [dcxxxi] Riznik, Barnes. Digging Down under Wai‘oli Mission Hall. Historic Hawai‘i News, 1980. [dcxxxii] The 1986 restoration raised the Belfry about 4 inches above its previous height. [dcxxxiii] State of the River 2001: Hanalei American Heritage River. Internet site: http://www.epa.gov/rivers/sor/sorhanalei.pdf., 2001. [dcxxxiv] p. 276-281, Narrative of a Voyage Round the World, Performed in Her Majesty’s Ship Sulphur, During the Years 1836-1842, Including Details of the Naval Operations in China, From Dec. 1840, to Nov. 1841. Published under the Authority of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, by Captain Sir Edward Belcher, Commander of the Expedition, Volume I, London: Henry Colburn, Publisher, Great Marlborough Street, 1843. [dcxxxv] p. 67, 276-281, Narrative of a Voyage Round the World, Performed in Her Majesty’s Ship Sulphur, During the Years 1836-1842, Including Details of the Naval Operations in China, From Dec. 1840, to Nov. 1841. Published under the Authority of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, by Captain Sir Edward Belcher, Commander of the Expedition, Volume I, London: Henry Colburn, Publisher, Great Marlborough Street, 1843. [dcxxxvi] p. 72, Wilcox, Carol. Sugar Water: Hawai‘i’s Plantation Ditches. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1996. [dcxxxvii] p. 70, Wilcox, Carol. Sugar Water: Hawai‘i’s Plantation Ditches. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1996. [dcxxxviii] Wilcox, Carol. Sugar Water: Hawai‘i’s Plantation Ditches. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1996. [dcxxxix] pp. 70-71, Wilcox, Carol. Sugar Water: Hawai‘i’s Plantation Ditches. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1996. [dcxl] p. 72, Wilcox, Carol. Sugar Water: Hawai‘i’s Plantation Ditches. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1996. [dcxli] p. 104, Whitney, Henry M. The Hawaiian Guide Book for Travelers. 1875. Reprint. Rutland, Vt.: Tuttle, 1970. [dcxlii] The Hanalei Valley land was part of the former plantation of Charles Titcomb, likely in the area crossed by Nukuhuli Stream near the current Hanalei Center (Wailele Building). [dcxliii] p. 2, The Emergence of Rice. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dcxliv] p. 2, The Emergence of Rice. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dcxlv] p. 2, The Emergence of Rice. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dcxlvi] p. 2, The Emergence of Rice. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dcxlvii] p. 1, A Changing Landscape, a New Crop, a New Population. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dcxlviii] p. 1, A Changing Landscape, a New Crop, a New Population. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dcxlix] p. 11, Cultural and Religious Community Life in the Rice Times. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends ofKauai, 1997. [dcl] p. 22, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303) [dcli] p. 11, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303) [dclii] p. 16, The Demise of the Rice Industry. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dcliii] p. 16, The Demise of the Rice Industry. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dcliv] p. 4, Recollecting the Work of Rice Farmers. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dclv] p. 4, Recollecting the Work of Rice Farmers. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dclvi] p. 4, Recollecting the Work of Rice Farmers. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dclvii] Nutmeg mannikins. p. 101, Hawaii’s Birds. Honolulu: Hawaiian Audubon Society, 1993. “Nutmeg Mannikin (Lonchura punctulata). Introduced from Southeast Asia about 1865. Also known as Ricebird or Spotted Munia...It can become a serious agricultural pest, particularly in rice and sorghum.” [dclviii] p. 4, Recollecting the Work of Rice Farmers. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dclix] p. 22, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303) [dclx] p. 26, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303) [dclxi] The wood of the hau tree was also used for fencing. [dclxii] p. 4, Recollecting the Work of Rice Farmers. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dclxiii] p. 11, Cultural and Religious Community Life in the Rice Times. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends ofKauai, 1997. [dclxiv] p. 22, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303) [dclxv] p. 3, The Rice Farms and Mills in the Landscape. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dclxvi] This land is now occupied by Hanalei Garden Farms and Bison Ranch. The land was known in ancient times as Pā‘ele, which means “Black,” or “Dark.” Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1986. [dclxvii] p. 5, Kenichi Tasaka. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dclxviii] p. 3, The Rice Farms and Mills in the Landscape. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dclxix] Fujimoto, Dennis. Haraguchi Rice Mill receives Young Bros. grant. The Garden Island, 8/14/2003. [dclxx] p. 23, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303) [dclxxi] p. 23, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303) [dclxxii] p. 16, The Demise of the Rice Industry. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997, citing Tin-Yuke, Chinese Historic Sites, p. 160. [dclxxiii] p. 3, The Rice Farms and Mills in the Landscape. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dclxxiv] p. 323, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That IslandGarden. Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931. [dclxxv] p. 2, The Rice Farms and Mills in the Landscape. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dclxxvi] p. 25, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303) [dclxxvii] Overnight camping is allowed at Black Pot Park only on weekends. [dclxxviii] pp. 287-288, Bird, Isabella L. Six Months in the Sandwich Islands. 1875, Reprint. Honolulu: University ofHawaii Press for Friends of the Library of Hawaii, 1964. [dclxxix] p. 8, The Hanalei Pier, Infrastructure and Commerce in Rice Times: New Technology makes Hanalei more accessible. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dclxxx] Fujimoto, Dennis. Haraguchi Rice Mill receives Young Bros. grant. The Garden Island, 8/14/2003. [dclxxxi] Fujimoto, Dennis. Haraguchi Rice Mill receives Young Bros. grant. The Garden Island, 8/14/2003. [dclxxxii] Remnants of the railroad tracks may still be seen near Hanalei Pier. [dclxxxiii] p. 8, The Hanalei Pier, Infrastructure and Commerce in Rice Times: New Technology makes Hanalei more accessible. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dclxxxiv] p. 8, The Hanalei Pier, Infrastructure and Commerce in Rice Times: New Technology makes Hanalei more accessible. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dclxxxv] p. 8, The Hanalei Pier, Infrastructure and Commerce in Rice Times: New Technology makes Hanalei more accessible. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dclxxxvi] p. 34, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [dclxxxvii] p. 14, Princeville Plantation Ranch House. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990. [dclxxxviii] p. 9, Commerce in the Rice Growing Era. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dclxxxix] p. 9, Commerce in the Rice Growing Era. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dcxc] p. 9, Polk-Husted Directory of Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii, 1914. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dcxci] Frank Kurihara referred to the Chock Chin Store as Chock Sing: “At the intersection was Chock Sing Store. It later became Lau Store.” [p. 7, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303).] [dcxcii] p. 9, Commerce in the Rice Growing Era. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dcxciii] p. 9, Commerce in the Rice Growing Era. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dcxciv] p. 5, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303). [dcxcv] Man Sing’s rice plantation was also located alongside the Hanalei River. He sold his rice mill to the Haraguchis in 1924. [p. 3, The Rice Farms and Mills in the Landscape. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.] [dcxcvi] A ceremony to celebrate the completion of Fusao Haraguchi’s sampan took place on May 10, 1938. [dcxcvii] Fujimoto, Dennis. Haraguchi Rice Mill receives Young Bros. grant. The Garden Island, 8/14/2003. [dcxcviii] Permission to use the land to grow rice was given by the Robinson family. Fujimoto, Dennis. Haraguchi Rice Mill receives Young Bros. grant. The Garden Island, 8/14/2003. [dcxcix] William Haraguchi a Living Treasure for life-long commitment to agriculture. The Garden Island, 6/26/2002. [dcc] p. 101, Hawaii’s Birds. Honolulu: Hawaiian Audubon Society, 1993. “Nutmeg Mannikin (Lonchura punctulata). Introduced from Southeast Asia about 1865. Also known as Ricebird or Spotted Munia...It can become a serious agricultural pest, particularly in rice and sorghum.” [dcci] According to Harry Ho, “opposite the Man Sung Wai Rice Mill, a Chinese temple and a community home were built.” [p. 12, The Chinese Cemetery, by Harry Ho: Recollections by longtime resident Harry Ho about the Yee Hing Society and the Chinese Cemetery. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.] [dccii] The Yee Hing Community Home was sometimes referred to as the Community House. [dcciii] p. 12, The Chinese Cemetery, by Harry Ho: Recollections by longtime resident Harry Ho about the Yee Hing Society and the Chinese Cemetery. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dcciv] p. 11, Cultural and Religious Community Life in the Rice Times. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dccv] p. 12, The Chinese Cemetery, by Harry Ho: Recollections by longtime resident Harry Ho about the Yee Hing Society and the Chinese Cemetery. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dccvi] p. 11, Cultural and Religious Community Life in the Rice Times. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dccvii] p. 12, The Chinese Cemetery, by Harry Ho: Recollections by longtime resident Harry Ho about the Yee Hing Society and the Chinese Cemetery. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dccviii] The former Hongwanji in Hanalei Valley was used for office space. P. 11, Cultural and Religious Community Life in the Rice Times. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dccix] p. 12, The Chinese Cemetery, by Harry Ho: Recollections by longtime resident Harry Ho about the Yee Hing Society and the Chinese Cemetery. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dccx] p. 12, The Chinese Cemetery, by Harry Ho: Recollections by longtime resident Harry Ho about the Yee Hing Society and the Chinese Cemetery. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dccxi] p. 12, The Chinese Cemetery, by Harry Ho: Recollections by longtime resident Harry Ho about the Yee Hing Society and the Chinese Cemetery. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dccxii] p. 12, The Chinese Cemetery, by Harry Ho: Recollections by longtime resident Harry Ho about the Yee Hing Society and the Chinese Cemetery. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dccxiii] p. 12, The Chinese Cemetery, by Harry Ho: Recollections by longtime resident Harry Ho about the Yee Hing Society and the Chinese Cemetery. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dccxiv] In later years the Cemetery was maintained by the Chinese community in the region as well as the Mormon community. [p. 12, The Chinese Cemetery, by Harry Ho: Recollections by longtime resident Harry Ho about the Yee Hing Society and the Chinese Cemetery. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.] [dccxv] These homes are located on the land that is now the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge. [dccxvi] pp. 5-6, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303) [dccxvii] The Trader Building was at the current site of the Dolphin Building. [dccxviii] p. 9, Commerce in the Rice Growing Era. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dccxix] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1986. [dccxx] p. 6, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303) [dccxxi] p. 12, The Chinese Cemetery, by Harry Ho: Recollections by longtime resident Harry Ho about the Yee Hing Society and the Chinese Cemetery. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dccxxii] p. 12, The Chinese Cemetery, by Harry Ho: Recollections by longtime resident Harry Ho about the Yee Hing Society and the Chinese Cemetery. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dccxxiii] Ching Young Village History Page. Internet site: http://www.chingyoungvillage.com/history.htm, 1/10/2003. [dccxxiv] Missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox first arrived on Kaua‘i in 1846. Their sons and descendants have played a significant role in Hanalei history. [dccxxv] p. 5, Ching Young Store Historic Register Application Statement of Historical and/or Architectural Significance. [dccxxvi] Ching Young Village History Page. Internet site: http://www.chingyoungvillage.com/history.htm, 1/10/2003.] Dang Ha Ching’s name was given as Ah Har Dang in: Commerce in the Rice Growing Era. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997, p. 10. [dccxxvii] Ching Young Village History Page. Internet site: http://www.chingyoungvillage.com/history.htm, 1/10/2003. [dccxxviii] p. 5, Historic Register Application Statement of Historical and/or Architectural Significance. [dccxxix] Ching Young Village History Page. Internet site: http://www.chingyoungvillage.com/history.htm, 1/10/2003. [dccxxx] p. 6, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303) [dccxxxi] Reverend Tsui Hin Wong was listed in the Polk Directory in 1930-31. [dccxxxii] p. 11, Cultural and Religious Community Life in the Rice Times. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends ofKauai, 1997. [dccxxxiii] p. 3, The Rice Farms and Mills in the Landscape. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dccxxxiv] p. 9, Commerce in the Rice Growing Era. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dccxxxv] p. 7, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303) [dccxxxvi] pp. 6-7, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303) [dccxxxvii] p. 9, Polk-Husted Directory of Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii, 1914. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dccxxxviii] Frank Kurihara recalls “Mr. Yokota, the Japanese school teacher.” [p. 7, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303).] [dccxxxix] p. 11, Cultural and Religious Community Life in the Rice Times. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends ofKauai, 1997. [dccxl] p. 11, Cultural and Religious Community Life in the Rice Times. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dccxli] Hawai‘i’s Japanese residents numbered about 100,000, including 35,000 first generation Japanese. [dccxlii] Later the building was again moved. [dccxliii] P. 11, Cultural and Religious Community Life in the Rice Times. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends ofKauai, 1997. Frank Kurihara noted that “the Japanese School...was moved there from its previous location near the beach.” [P. 7, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303)] [dccxliv] p. 9, Commerce in the Rice Growing Era. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dccxlv] Frank Kurihara referred to the store at the intersection as the Chock Sing Store: “At the intersection was Chock Sing Store. It later became Lau Store.” [p. 7, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303).] [dccxlvi] p. 9, Commerce in the Rice Growing Era. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dccxlvii] p. 9, Commerce in the Rice Growing Era. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dccxlviii] p. 9, Commerce in the Rice Growing Era. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [Note: Frank Kurihara referred to the store at the intersection as the Chock Sing Store: “At the intersection was Chock Sing Store. It later became Lau Store.” [p. 7, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996.] [dccxlix] p. 9, Commerce in the Rice Growing Era. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dccl] Source: Note on file at Kaua‘i Historical Society stating “Information source: Mr. K. Tasaka.” [dccli] p. 5, Kenichi Tasaka. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dcclii] p. 5, Kenichi Tasaka. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dccliii] p. 7, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303) [dccliv] The Lily Pond House was located on a lot belonging to Harry Weinberg. [dcclv] Lily Pond House - National Register of Historic Places: Statement of Historical and/or Architectural Significance.United States Department of the Interior; National Park Service. [dcclvi] The Lily Pond House was moved under the direction of Mr. Tasaka, a taro farmer and County plumber, and the son of the former caretaker for the home of the Kaua‘i Electric manager. Lily Pond House - National Register of Historic Places: Statement of Historical and/or Architectural Significance. United States Department of the Interior; National Park Service. [dcclvii] p. 7, The Old Post Office. Infrastructure and Commerce in Rice Times: New Technology makes Hanalei more accessible. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dcclviii] Post Office in Paradise: Kauai Postmarks, Part 1—Anahola to Koloa. Internet site: http://www.hawaiianstamps.com/iskauai1.html, 3/18/2003. [dcclix] The Princeville Plantation House was formerly known as Kikiula, and later known as the Princeville Ranch House). P. 7, The Bridge and the Roads. Infrastructure and Commerce in Rice Times: New Technology makes Hanalei more accessible.. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dcclx] p. 4, Westerners Arrive. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990. [dcclxi] Post Office in Paradise: Kauai Postmarks, Part 1—Anahola to Koloa. Internet site: http://www.hawaiianstamps.com/iskauai1.html, 3/18/2003. [dcclxii] p. 7, The Old Post Office. Infrastructure and Commerce in Rice Times: New Technology makes Hanalei more accessible. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dcclxiii] p. 7, The Old Post Office. Infrastructure and Commerce in Rice Times: New Technology makes Hanalei more accessible. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dcclxiv] p. 10, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303) [dcclxv] p. 9, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303). Also, “John Hanohano served as the area’s policeman along with Kaonohe.” [p. 17, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303)] [dcclxvi] A Brief History of the Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church. Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church Bulletin, 2003. [dcclxvii] Report of the Superintendent of Public Instruction to the Governor of the Territory of Hawaii from December 31, 1902 to December 31, 1904. [dcclxviii] p. 9, Polk-Husted Directory of Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii, 1914. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dcclxix] Hanalei School is fully accredited by the Western Association of Schools and Colleges. [dcclxx] p. 10, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303) [dcclxxi] p. 10, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303) [dcclxxii] Wilcox, Carol. The Kauai Album. Kaua‘i: Kauai Historical Society, 1981. [dcclxxiii] Kurihara also noted that, living at the Princeville Plantation Ranch, were “the Lindsay, Niau, and the Kaukahi families, also the Io brothers.” Pages 6-7, 17, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303) [dcclxxiv] p. 239, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [dcclxxv] Huki: “to pull”; lau: “seine.” Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1986. [dcclxxvi] p. 29, Clark, John R. K. Beaches of Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1990. [dcclxxvii] p. 6, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303) [dcclxxviii] Lumaha‘i Hula. Kimo Alama, Keaulana Collection, Bishop Museum Archives MS GRP 329 Box 5.37. [dcclxxix] Lumaha‘i Hula. Kimo Alama, Keaulana Collection, Bishop Museum Archives MS GRP 329 Box 5.37. [dcclxxx] p. 13, Fishing. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dcclxxxi] Halalū refers to “the young of the akule fish, about 14 or 15 cm long.” [Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1986.] [dcclxxxii] p. 18, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303) [dcclxxxiii] p. 11, Cultural and Religious Community Life in the Rice Times. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends ofKauai, 1997. [dcclxxxiv] Kauikeōlani Estate: Hanalei Plantation Cottages. Internet site:http://www.hanaleiland.com/pages/kaui_history.htm, 12/27/2002. [dcclxxxv] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [dcclxxxvi] p. 283, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [dcclxxxvii] p. 278, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [dcclxxxviii] p. 37, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [dcclxxxix] Sanborn Beach House—National Register of Historic Places: United States Department of the Interior; National Park Service. [dccxc] The Princeville Ranch House was originally known as Kikiula, and then later called Princeville Plantation House, and then Princeville Ranch House. [dccxci] Sanborn Beach House—National Register of Historic Places: United States Department of the Interior; National Park Service. [dccxcii] Sanborn Beach House—National Register of Historic Places: United States Department of the Interior; National Park Service. [dccxciii] Blaich, Beryl. Notes on file at Kaua‘i Historical Society, based on information from Alan Sanborn, 1/05/87. [dccxciv] p. 17, Taro Returns to Hanalei. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dccxcv] p. 116, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950. [dccxcvi] Sobeleski, Hank. History makers of Kauai: H.P. Fayé. The Garden Island, Internet site: http://kauai-harborhouse.com/hbfaye.html, 3/29/2003. [dccxcvii] Mahamoku. National Register of Historic Places: Inventory - Nomination Form. [dccxcviii] Mahamoku. National Register of Historic Places: Inventory - Nomination Form. [dccxcix] Mahamoku. National Register of Historic Places: Inventory - Nomination Form. [dccc] Mahamoku. National Register of Historic Places: Inventory - Nomination Form. [dccci] Mahamoku. National Register of Historic Places: Inventory - Nomination Form. [dcccii] Beachhead (1954) was produced by Howard W. Koch, Beachhead was based on the Richard Hubler novel, I’ve Got Mine. With a budget of $400,000, Beachhead was a WWII film set in the Philippines. [dccciii] Naked Paradise/Thunder Over Hawaii (1956) is a Roger Corman film starring Richard Denning, Beverly Garland, and Lisa Montell. Thunder Over Hawaii was the re-release title. [dccciv] Musician David Crosby’s father, Floyd Crosby, worked as a cinematographer on the film. [dcccv] Before the film version of South Pacific became famous, it had been a hit Broadway musical by Rodgers and Hammerstein. The film and the stage version were both based on the book Tales of the South Pacific, by James Michener. [dcccvi] Numerous Rodgers & Hammerstein songs were popularized by South Pacific, including: Some Enchanted Evening, Bali Hai, There is Nothing Like a Dame, I’m in Love with a Wonderful Guy, and Younger Than Springtime. A controversial element of the film South Pacific was director Joshua Logan’s use of colored filters, which were meant to represent the actors’ moods and emotions, in several scenes [dcccvii] In the 1960s, the Birkmyre Estate was replaced by the Hanalei Plantation Hotel and a house, both of which have since been removed. [dcccviii] Nadine Alexander, the wife of Duke Kahanamoku, played a nun in the movie. [dcccix] Wackiest Ship in the Army (1961) was loosely based on an event that occurred in World War II. [dcccx] Filming of Paradise Hawaiian Style (1965) took place in 1964. [dcccxi] Behold Hawaii is an IMAX production by MacGillivray-Freeman Films. O‘ahu’s Bishop Museum provided guidance in the production of Behold Hawaii. [dcccxii] Joe Darrow discovers that his wife had their child before she died, and the natives are taking care of the child. [dcccxiii] Forty-seven minutes after the earthquake in the Aleutian Islands, a tsunami sheared the Scotch Cap Lighthouse atUnimak Island off its base, killing five people. [dcccxiv] p. 140, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 1285. [dcccxv] Sanborn Beach House—National Register of Historic Places: United States Department of the Interior; National Park Service. [dcccxvi] p. 24, Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu: Hawai‘i, 2002. [dcccxvii] Princeville Corporation finalizes sale of land. The Garden Island, 9/14/2003.
[dcccxix] p. 27, Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu: Hawai‘i, 2002. [dcccxx] Haraguchi Rice Mill - Phone: 808-826-6202; Mail to: P.O. Box 427, Hanalei, HI 96714. [dcccxxi] Bates 1854: 201-4, 206. [dcccxxii] Robinson, Robby. History of the Singlehanded TransPacific Yacht Race. Internet site: http://www.sfbaysss.org/transpac96/tphist.html, 3/26/2003. [dcccxxiii] p. 67, Narrative of a Voyage Round the World, Performed in Her Majesty’s Ship Sulphur, During the Years 1836-1842, Including Details of the Naval Operations in China, From Dec. 1840, to Nov. 1841. Published under the Authority of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, by Captain Sir Edward Belcher, Commander of the Expedition, Volume I, London: Henry Colburn, Publisher, Great Marlborough Street, 1843. [dcccxxiv] Internet site: http://www.hanaleiriver.org, 2003. [dcccxxv] p. 20, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303) [dcccxxvi] p. 18, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303) [dcccxxvii] p. 144, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 1323. [dcccxxviii] p. 18, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303) [dcccxxix] Hanalei river program awarded $700,000. The Garden Island, 5/07/2003. [dcccxxx] Billig, Priscilla Pérez. Waipā: A living ahupua‘a. Spirit of Aloha. November/December, 2002. [dcccxxxi] Billig, Priscilla Pérez. Waipā: A living ahupua‘a. Spirit of Aloha. November/December, 2002. [dcccxxxii] Waipa Foundation. Internet site: http://www.waipafoundation.org/, 8/09/2003. [dcccxxxiii] p. 17, Taro Returns to Hanalei. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dcccxxxiv] p. 64, Handy, 1940:72. [dcccxxxv] p. 64, Handy, 1940:72. [dcccxxxvi] The Sanborn Poi Mill in the 1950s was run by Kenichi Tasaka, Michi Fukuda, and Harold Kobayashi. [p. 17,Taro Returns to Hanalei. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.] [dcccxxxvii] p. 17, Taro Returns to Hanalei. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dcccxxxviii] Kubota, Gary T. Poi takes a pounding: Damaged crops have growers reducing supplies. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 5/16/2003. [dcccxxxix] In 1978, Hanalei Bridge was placed on the National and State Registers of Historic Places. [dcccxl] Press Release for Preservation News. The Hanalei Project: 1000 Friends of Kauai, 6/06/1989. [dcccxli] Vehicle counts revealed that cars crossing Hanalei Bridge increased to 8,000 per day in 2001 from 4,500 per day in 1999, with less than 2,000 of the vehicles driven by local residents in both counts. Source: Conrow, Joan. Picture Perfect?: The changing face of Hanalei. Kaua‘i Business Report, May, 2003. [dcccxlii] TenBruggencate, Jan. Hanalei braces for boats. The Honolulu Advertiser, 5/15/2002. [dcccxliii] Surfing in Hawai‘i was part of the Hawaiians’ kapu system, where ali‘i (the ruling class, or royalty) and maka‘āinana (commoners) had different status. The ali‘i, or ruling class, used surfboards that were from 14 to 16 feet long and carved from the buoyant wood of the wiliwili tree. A big surfboard like this made of premium wood was called an olo (also ‘ōwili, paha), and might weigh as much as 175 pounds. An ‘ōnini was a board used only by the best surfers. Commoners used a 10- to 12-foot board called an alaia (also called an omo), made from the denser, heavier and thus less buoyant wood of koa, or the wood of the ‘ulu (breadfruit), which was also less buoyant. A small board was known as a kīoe. [dcccxliv] Cook, Chris. Kaua‘i surfers conquer King’s Reef at Hanalei. The Garden Island, 11/29/1996. [dcccxlv] Cook, Chris. No Hanalei link for folk song ‘Puff the Magic Dragon.’ The Garden Island, 7/25/2004. [dcccxlvi] The five native waterbirds described are federally listed as endangered under the Endangered Species Act. (SeeFederal Register, 2002, Vol. 67, U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, Threatened and Endangered Species System (TESS), Listings by State and Territory as of 7/20/2002. Internet site: http://ecos.fws.gov/servlet/TESSWebpageUsaLists?state=HI, 7/28/2002.) [dcccxlvii] Hawai‘i has at least 22 species of native seabirds, which combine to form a total population of more than 12 million seabirds in Hawai‘i. Most of Hawai‘i’s seabirds live on the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands, which are hundreds of miles northwest of the eight main Hawaiian Islands. [dcccxlviii] The five native waterbirds described are federally listed as endangered under the Endangered Species Act. (SeeFederal Register, 2002, Vol. 67, U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, Threatened and Endangered Species System (TESS), Listings by State and Territory as of 7/20/2002. Internet site: http://ecos.fws.gov/servlet/TESSWebpageUsaLists?state=HI, 7/28/2002.) [dcccxlix] p. 79, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 709.
[dcccli] p. 310, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 2830. [dccclii] p. 194, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 1812. [dcccliii] This saying is interpreted as “a play on nele (a lack, poverty), this saying implies a going without, a lack of success, chagrin, and so forth.” [P. 314, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings.Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 2878.] [dcccliv] p. 197, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 1828. [dccclv] Plover adults usually begin arriving in Hawai‘i in late August, and juveniles arrive in late September, staying until late April or May when they again head north. [dccclvi] The plover’s migration flight makes them among the world’s fastest birds when it comes to sustained flight. This sustained flight category excludes speeds attained by diving birds such as raptors. [dccclvii] Black coloration around the eyes is a common trait in seabirds, and helps to reduce glare. [dccclviii] The albatross chick may take several days to break free from the shell. [dccclix] Northern shovelers range throughout the northern Hemisphere, wintering as far south as the northern parts of South America as well as southern Eurasia and eastern Africa. [dccclx] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1986. [dccclxi] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1986. [dccclxii] Bufflehead breed in North America, including Alaska and Canada, and then winter as far south as Mexico and the Gulf Coast. [dccclxiii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1986. [dccclxiv] Frigatebirds have been documented to have reached 34 years of age. [dccclxv] p. 73, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 645. [dccclxvi] Nesting material is gathered primarily by the female frigatebirds, but it’s primarily the male that builds the nest. The frigatebird chick has no feathers at first, and so the parents must protect the baby from the sun. [dccclxvii] p. 64, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 545. [dccclxviii] Shearwaters have what is called a tube nose at the base of their beak. The tube nose is connected to a gland that removes extra salt from the bird’s food and water. [dccclxix] The fish and squid that shearwaters feed on are often pushed toward the ocean’s surface by schools of tuna. Fishermen have long known that seeing a gathering of shearwaters may be a sign of the valuable tuna species the fishermen seek. [dccclxx] By November the wedge-tailed shearwaters migrate along the equatorial countercurrent to the coast of Central America, reaching such disparate locations as Panama and Japan, sometimes staying at sea for up to four years. Many of the birds migrate back to the Hawaiian Islands in March and then repeat their migration path each year. [dccclxxi] Archaeological evidence shows that ancient Hawaiians utilized shearwaters and petrels as a food source. Abundant remains of shearwaters have been found in ancient Hawaiian settlements. Pigs and dogs brought by the early Polynesian settlers of Hawai‘i also had an effect on the populations of the ground nesting shearwaters. After Westerners arrived, cats and mongoose further decimated the shearwater population. By 1931 the birds were thought to be extinct in Hawai‘i, but they were “rediscovered” in 1954. [dccclxxii] On Kaua‘i, residents have been saving these stranded birds for more than 20 years. Most shearwater strandings occur in October and November. The peak period of the month for strandings is during the new moon when the sky is dark. Also vulnerable to strandings due to nighttime light are other night-flying seabirds, including the ‘ua‘u (Hawaiian dark-rumped petrel), an endangered species. [dccclxxiii] Shearwater aid stations are located at Kaua‘i County Fire Departments as well as other locations. Be careful when attempting to rescue stranded shearwaters, as the birds may occasionally bite. Stay clear of the bird’s head as you grasp its folded wings and tail. Then put the bird in a ventilated box for transport. The Department of Land and Natural Resources (DLNR) advises the public that stranded birds may have unseen injuries and should not be tossed up into the air in an attempt to allow them to fly. Local residents may assist in helping the native bird species survive by reducing unnecessary outdoor lights, especially floodlamps, which may cause the birds to land due to temporary blindness. Rescued Newell’s shearwaters are checked for injuries, banded, and then released along the shoreline so they may fly out to sea. Up to 2,000 Newell’s shearwaters (an estimated 90% of all strandings), are returned to safety each year, with more than 25,000 birds rescued to date. Hundreds of fledgling wedge-tailed shearwaters are also rescued. [dccclxxiv] p. 188, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 1749. [dccclxxv] The distinctive long tail feathers of the tropicbirds, also called streamers, are actually highly specialized inner tail feathers. [dccclxxvi] Especially valued for kāhili were the tail feathers of the red-tailed tropicbird. [dccclxxvii] p. 28, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 237. [dccclxxviii] DNA tests trace Polynesians to China origins. The Honolulu Advertiser, 8/11/1998. Borg, Jim. Genetic research offers intriguing new view of Polynesian migrations. Hawaii Magazine, February, 1997. Human DNA analysis points to African origin: Study performed on complete genome. The Honolulu Advertiser, 12/7/2000. Krauss, Bob. Pacific migration theory disputed: Polynesians may be from Indonesia. The Honolulu Advertiser, 7/18/2000. Matisoo-Smith, E., Roberts, R.M., Irwin, G.J., Allen, J.S., Penny, D. and Lambert, D.M. Patterns of prehistoric human mobility in Polynesia indicated by mtDNA from the Pacific rat. Anthropology, Vol. 95, pp. 15145-15150, December, 1998. Matsunaga, Mark. Scientists still fish for migration answer: Canoes ready to test theory of the fishhooks. The HonoluluAdvertiser, 4/16/1995. [dccclxxix] Holocene History of Sediment Deposition and Stratigraphy on the Hanalei Coastal Plain, Kauai, Hawaii(Abstract). Internet site: http://www.soest.hawaii.edu/GG/STUDENTS/calhoun/abstract.html, 3/26/2003. [dccclxxx] The Lapita culture is known for its distinctive and colorful earthenware pottery, which can be traced through Melanesia to Samoa, Fiji, and Tonga, where many characteristics of typical Polynesian culture evolved during the first millennium. By the time Hawai‘i was settled, however, the use of pottery disappeared and was replaced instead by stone adzes and other crafts. Lapita pottery is first seen around the middle of the second millennium, appearing in Melanesia and then New Caledonia and Samoa. The people of the Lapita culture were the founding members of Tonga, Samoa, and Fiji. [Kirch, P. V. The Lapita Peoples: Ancestors of the Oceanic World. Oxford: Blackwell Publishers, 1997.] [dccclxxxi] More than 4,000 words of this Proto Polynesian language have been reconstructed. Kirch, P. V. and R. C. Green. Hawaiki, Ancestral Polynesia: An Essay in Historical Anthropology. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2001. [dccclxxxii] Molecular biologists have discovered phenotypic homogeneity and common genetic markers among Polynesians, suggesting a “genetic bottleneck” took place early in the history of the Polynesian race, likely around the time that Fiji, Tonga, and Samoa were settled. [dccclxxxiii] TenBruggencate, Jan. Researchers: east Polynesia settled later: Some experts say Hawai‘i first settled in 800 to 1000 A.D. The Honolulu Advertiser, 3/10/2006. [dccclxxxiv] Tahiti encompasses 402 square miles, and is the largest island of the Society Islands group of French Polynesia (which also includes the Marquesas). The island of Tahiti is almost directly below Hawai‘i and about half way between California and Australia. [dccclxxxv] See Hanalei in Ancient Times, Chapter 1. [dccclxxxvi] p. 8, Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu: Hawai‘i, 2002. [dccclxxxvii] Charlton apparently did not pay Kamehameha III the agreed upon fee, but nevertheless retained the use of the land. [P. 270, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.] [dccclxxxviii] p. 190, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii.Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934. [dccclxxxix] p. 5, We Feel Today. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dcccxc] Titcomb’s mulberry trees included the native or black mulberry varieties, as well as white, Canton, and morus multicaulis species imported from the United States. [dcccxci] Waioli Church—National Register of Historic Places: Statement of Architectural and Historical Significance.United States Department of the Interior; National Park Service. Also: A Brief History of the Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church.Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church Bulletin, 2003. Waioli Mission District—National Register of Historic Places: Inventory—Nomination Form. United States Department of the Interior; National Park Service. [dcccxcii] p. 272, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [dcccxciii] p. 38. Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987. [dcccxciv] pp. 43-44. Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homesteadand Waioli Mission House, 1987. [dcccxcv] Titcomb’s coffee plants included Bourbon species. [From Bates 1854: 201-4,206).] [dcccxcvi] p. 272, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. [dcccxcvii] p. 150, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984. [dcccxcviii] We Feel Today. p. 5. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [dcccxcix] Hawai‘i population estimates at the time of Western contact in 1778 vary from 200,000 to more than 400,000. [cm] Report of Waioli Select School From July 16th, to May 12th, 1863. On file at Grove Farm, Kaua‘i. [cmi] p. 2, The Emergence of Rice. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [cmii] p. 2, The Emergence of Rice. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [cmiii] p. 1, A Changing Landscape, a New Crop, a New Population. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [cmiv] p. 2, The Emergence of Rice. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [cmv] p. 10, Commerce in the Rice Growing Era. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [cmvi] p. 72, Wilcox, Carol. Sugar Water: Hawai‘i’s Plantation Ditches. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1996. [cmvii] p. 8, The County Water and Electrical Systems. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [cmviii] p. 3, The Rice Farms and Mills in the Landscape. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [cmix] P. 11, Cultural and Religious Community Life in the Rice Times. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. Frank Kurihara noted that “the Japanese School...was moved there from its previous location near the beach.” [P. 7, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303)] [cmx] p. 24, Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu: Hawai‘i, 2002. [cmxi] Hanalei river program awarded $700,000. The Garden Island, 5/07/2003. [cmxii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmxiii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmxiv] p. 252, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 2313. [cmxv] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmxvi] p. 238, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 2192. [cmxvii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmxviii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmxix] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmxx] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmxxi] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmxxii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmxxiii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmxxiv] p. 252, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 2315. [cmxxv] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmxxvi] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmxxvii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmxxviii] p. 234, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 2144. [cmxxix] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1986. [cmxxx] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmxxxi] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1986. [cmxxxii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmxxxiii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmxxxiv] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmxxxv] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmxxxvi] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmxxxvii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmxxxviii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmxxxix] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmxl] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmxli] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmxlii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmxliii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmxliv] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmxlv] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1986. [cmxlvi] p. 13, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 96. [cmxlvii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmxlviii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmxlix] p. 203, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 1885. [cml] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmli] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmlii] A heiau at Honalo was called Kualani (“chiefly back”). Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmliii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmliv] p. 151, Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmlv] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmlvi] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmlvii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmlviii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmlix] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmlx] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmlxi] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmlxii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmlxiii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmlxiv] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmlxv] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmlxvi] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmlxvii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmlxviii] p. 309, p. xxiv, Desha, Stephen L., translated by Frazier, Frances N. Kamehameha and his Warrior Kekūhaupi‘o. Honolulu: Kamehameha Schools Press, 2000). [cmlxix] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmlxx] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmlxxi] pp. 157-158, Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names ofHawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmlxxi] pp. 157-158, Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names ofHawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmlxxii] pp. 157-158, Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names ofHawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmlxxii] pp. 157-158, Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names ofHawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmlxxiii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmlxxiv] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmlxxv] p. 122, Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmlxxvi] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1986. [cmlxxvii] p. 294, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 2687. [cmlxxviii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmlxxix] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmlxxx] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmlxxxi] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmlxxxii] p. 183, Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmlxxxiii] p. 183, Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmlxxxiv] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmlxxxv] p. 170, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 1580. [cmlxxxvi] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmlxxxvii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmlxxxviii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmlxxxix] p. 102, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 952. [cmxc] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmxci] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmxcii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmxciii] p. 252, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 2311. [cmxciv] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. [cmxcv] Note: This name and meaning remain controversial. [cmxcvi] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition.// Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1986.
Chapter 2. The State of Hawai‘i—
Island Overviews, and Cultural / Historical Sites and Attractions
Of the Eight Main Hawaiian Islands and the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands
Introduction
Historic Periods of the Hawaiian Islands
Nā Mō‘ī Hawai‘i: The Hawaiian Monarchy
The Eight Rulers of the United Hawaiian Kingdom
Kuhina Nui
Premiers, or Regents, Sharing Power with King
Hawai‘i’s Major Political Periods
Governors of the Territory of Hawai‘i
Appointed by U.S. President
Territorial Delegates to Congress
Governors and Lieutenant Governors of the State of Hawai‘i
The State of Hawai‘i—The Aloha State
The Hawaiian Islands
O‘ahu—The Gathering Place
Kaua‘i—The Garden Isle
Ni‘ihau—The Forbidden Isle
Moloka‘i—The Friendly Isle
Lāna‘i—The Private Isle
Maui—The Valley Isle
Hawai‘i Island (The Big Island)—The Orchid Isle
Kaho‘olawe
Northwestern Hawaiian Islands
This Hawaiian Encyclopedia covers the major events of Hawaiian history from ancient times through the pre-contact era and up to the present day, including a rich tapestry of stories and events woven by many different cultures from around the globe.
The history of the Hawaiian Islands began many millions of years ago nearly 20,000 feet beneath the ocean’s surface as magma from deep in the Earth erupted onto the Pacific seafloor to form an undersea volcano. For thousands of centuries the volcano grew until finally, amidst the steam and ash and molten rock, it rose above the sea and an island was born.
Even as the island grew it was being slowly pulled northwest by the movement of a giant piece of the Earth’s crust known as a tectonic plate, the great Pacific Plate. The stationary plume of lava continued to erupt as the Pacific Plate moved northwest, making way for a new volcanic island to form, and then another and another, each in turn emerging from the sea to form the chain known as the Hawaiian Islands.
Weathered by wind and rain for thousands of centuries, the rocky surfaces of the isolated volcanic islands gradually turned to soil and allowed plant species to take hold. Eventually the islands supported a great variety of life from the shores to the mountain peaks.
The human side of Hawai‘i’s story began with the Polynesians, a race whose roots extend back to some 6,000 years ago when ambitious sailors in voyaging canoes ventured farther and farther out from the Southeast Asian continent to inhabit hundreds of Pacific islands. More than 1,000 years ago the seafaring voyagers discovered the Hawaiian Islands, the most remote archipelago on Earth.
Ua lehulehu a manomano ka ‘ikena a ka Hawai‘i.
Great and numerous is the knowledge of the Hawaiians.**[1]**
By the time British Captain James Cook established Western contact in 1778, the Hawaiians had developed an amazingly rich and complex Pacific island culture unlike any other, with a population of more than a quarter of a million people, possible more than twice that number (Captain Cook’s crew estimated the population at about 400,000).
Western weapons soon played a key role in conflicts between island chiefs, including the rising warrior Kamehameha, who visited Captain Cook’s ship when it was anchored off Maui in November of 1778. Kamehameha fought his last major battle in 1795 at O‘ahu’s Nu‘uanu Valley where he conquered O‘ahu and gained control of all the Hawaiian Islands except Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau. Kaua‘i’s King Kaumuali‘i avoided imminent defeat in 1810 by ceding Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau to Kamehameha, thus allowing Kamehameha to declare a united Hawaiian Kingdom.
After the death of King Kamehameha I on May 8, 1819, changes in the Hawaiian Islands occurred rapidly, beginning with the breaking of the eating kapu that prohibited men and women from eating together. This occurred when King Kamehameha II (Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho) ate with the dowager queens Keōpūolanikauhiakama [Keōpūolani] and Ka‘ahumanu, beginning a process that eroded away traditional Hawaiian religious beliefs and led to the complete overturning of the kapu system.
The post-contact era saw the arrival of explorers, traders, whalers, military ships, and missionaries. The sandalwood trade began in 1791 and lasted until 1840, bringing a steady influx of foreigners who brought many foreign goods to trade for the valuable wood. The arduous labor involved in sandalwood harvesting caused a sharp decline in traditional Hawaiian food production.
The whaling era began in 1819 and peaked in 1846 with the arrival of nearly 600 whaling ships, mostly at Lahaina and Honolulu. Whaling supported a bustling trade at port towns, and the boisterous and sometimes unruly whaling crews had far-reaching influences throughout the Islands. Many Hawaiians were hired to work aboard the whaling vessels, and many whalers stayed behind and became Hawaiian residents.
The First Company of American missionaries arrived in 1820 and began to convert native Hawaiians to Christianity. By 1840, a total of twelve missionary companies had established at least 17 mission stations along with many churches and schools. Missionary influences were extensive, and included the development of a written Hawaiian language as well as the production and distribution of millions of pages of printed documents.
In 1848, King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) instituted a system of private property ownership known as the Great Māhele, eventually leading to non-Hawaiians owning much of Hawai‘i’s land. The new availability of land helped commercial sugar production, which began on Kaua‘i in 1835, to become the driving force of Hawai‘i’s economy.
The Reciprocity Treaty went into effect in 1876, allowing sugar to be sold in the United States without customs or duties. In return the United States was allowed to use Pearl Harbor as a naval base. The treaty resulted in a rapid expansion of Hawai‘i’s sugar industry, which increased ten-fold in just 15 years and then continued to double each decade.
The plantation era brought major political and economic changes, with virtually all aspects of Island life controlled by Hawai‘i’s “Big Five” sugar companies: Theo H. Davies; American Factors (Amfac); C. Brewer & Co.; Alexander & Baldwin; and Castle & Cooke. With their interlocking directorates, the companies cooperated to control every aspect of their trade, from the workers in the fields to the laws and politics of the Hawaiian Kingdom.
In 1893, Hawai‘i’s prominent sugar merchants were directly linked to the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy, with the backing of the U.S. Minister to Hawai‘i, John Leavitt Stevens, who ordered troops from the U.S.S. Boston ashore in Honolulu and supported the formation of a Provisional Government. To avoid bloodshed, Queen Lili‘uokalani yielded not to the Provisional Government but to the United States government, “...until such time as the Government of the United States shall, upon facts being presented to it, undo the action of its representatives and reinstate me in the authority which I claim as the Constitutional Sovereign of the Hawaiian Islands.”
U.S. President Cleveland denounced the overthrow as lawless because it was achieved under “false pretexts.” Cleveland sent regrets about the “unauthorized intervention” and ordered the queen’s power restored, but the Provisional Government refused. In 1897, President Cleveland was succeeded by President McKinley, who favored annexation. When the Spanish-American War moved to the Philippines in 1898, the Hawaiian Islands became strategically important as a coaling base for the United States fleet, and the Hawaiian Islands were annexed to the United States.
The rise of the sugar industry led to the mass immigration of foreign laborers, and by the 1930s hundreds of thousands of sugarcane plantation workers had arrived from China, Japan, the Philippines, Portugal, Korea, Spain, Puerto Rico, and other countries. These ethnic groups supplied a ready labor force for the plantations, and became the basis of today’s “melting pot” of cultures in the Islands.
With the early foreigners came foreign diseases, however, including epidemics of mumps, measles, smallpox, whooping cough, tuberculosis, diphtheria, Asiatic cholera, and bubonic plague along with other diseases that together decimated the population of native Hawaiians, who were particularly vulnerable due to their lack of immunity to these foreign diseases. Less than 100 years after Captain Cook arrived in the Hawaiian Islands, fewer than 40,000 native Hawaiians remained down from an estimated population of more than 300,000 at the time of Western contact in 1778.
The sugar industry continued its dominance of Hawai‘i’s economy through the first half of the 1900s with lesser contributions from pineapple exports, military spending, and tourism. Everything changed on December 7, 1941 when 350 Japanese bomber planes attacked Pearl Harbor, entering the United States into World War II. Hundreds of thousands of Army, Navy, and Marine Corps troops were stationed in the Hawaiian Islands and millions of servicemen passed through on their way to combat areas in the Pacific.
After World War II ended, a new political movement was led by returning veterans, including Hawai‘i’s Nisei soldiers, the second generation Japanese-Americans who served as distinguished members of the renowned 442ndRegimental Combat Team and 100th Infantry Battalion. Forming alliances with other ethnic groups, these returning veterans won important election victories in what became known as the Democratic Revolution of 1954. The Democrats gained a majority in the Territorial House of Representatives and then won both Houses two years later to end the Republican domination.
Democrats favored statehood, liberal labor benefits, land reform, and equality in education. Business leaders and large landowners supported the Democrats and encouraged a construction boom that included new airports, hotels, golf courses, and roads. Labor unrest that had come from more than a half century of control by the large sugar companies led to the rise of unions and increased workers’ rights.
In 1959, Hawai‘i was officially admitted as the 50th state and a 50th star was added to the flag of the United States. Commercial jet service also began in 1959, leading to an increase in travel to the Hawaiian Islands and fueling the rapidly growing tourism industry. At the time of Statehood about 240,000 tourists were arriving each year, a number that would quadruple in the next decade and then keep growing.
U.S. Representative John Burns was elected governor of the State of Hawai‘i in 1962, and Democrats for the first time controlled both the executive and legislative branches. Burns served until 1974 and was considered the founder of a Democratic political dynasty in Hawai‘i that lasted nearly three decades.
The rise of the Democrats paralleled the rise of unions, which peaked in the 1970s when government employees earned the right to join unions and bargain for better contracts. Major strikes by dock workers and transit workers further increased power among labor groups. Meanwhile, tourism numbers continued to rise, exceeding two million annual visitors by 1972 and more than five million annually by 1986.
Recent decades have seen a resurgence in traditional Hawaiian cultural knowledge and practices, infusing the native population with a renewed spirit and pride in ancient traditions. The Essay On Being Hawaiian by John Dominis Holt is said to have been a seminal work inspiring a “Hawaiian Renaissance,” which some say began with the launching of the Hōkūle‘a voyaging canoe in 1975.
The Hōkūle‘a was built with the goal of demonstrating that migrating Polynesians could have sailed east against the prevailing winds. Voyagers have now sailed the 62-foot-long canoe more than 110,000 nautical miles, including six major continental and Pan-Pacific voyages.
The 57-foot-long Hawai‘iloa voyaging canoe, built almost entirely out of traditional materials, made its first voyage in 1995. Several more voyaging canoes have now been built—the Makali‘i, Nāmāhoe, and Hōkūalaka‘i—and the growing fleet is helping Hawaiians to continue their quest for traditional knowledge.
The number of speakers of the Hawaiian language also has grown from less than 4,000 in 1983, mostly elders who spoke Hawaiian to each other, to more than 7,000 today, most of whom are younger than thirty years old.
Poho pono na pe‘a heke a ku ana.
A well-filled topsail helped him to arrive.
Said of a fast traveler.[2]
Dedicated Hawaiian scholars, such as the prolific Mary Kawena Pūku‘i (1895-1986), have been integral to restoring ancestral values. Pūku‘i coauthored the Hawaiian Dictionary,[3]and Place Names of Hawaii[4] with Samuel H. Elbert, and published ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings,[5] and other important works now utilized by Hawaiian cultural practitioners and historians.
In recent decades, Hawaiian scholars have shed new light on ancient times by translating many old documents and stories originally written in the Hawaiian language. One of these scholars is Pūku‘i’s former assistant, Frances Frazier, whose translations include such important works as Kamehameha and His Warrior Kekuhaupi‘o (2000), and The True Story of Kaluaikoolau as Told by his Wife, Piilani (2001).
Just as Hawaiian scholars continue to bring forward new information through translations of Hawaiian language works that provide a clearer picture of Hawai‘i’s past, increasing cultural awareness has brought renewed efforts toward resolution of Hawaiian sovereignty issues. The sovereignty movement was given impetus on January 4, 1976 when the first protest occupation of the island of Kaho‘olawe took place to stop the island’s use as a military bombing target. President George Bush ended the use of Kaho‘olawe for bombing practice in 1990, and four years later the island was returned to the State of Hawai‘i.
In 1993, President Clinton signed a Joint Resolution of Congress (Public Law 103-150), which “...apologizes to the Native Hawaiians on behalf of the people of the United States for the overthrow of the Kingdom of Hawaii on January 17, 1893,” and supports “...reconciliation efforts between the United States and the Native Hawaiian people.”[6]
The continuing “Hawaiian Renaissance” has been enlivened by political activists, musicians, composers, and writers, and is celebrated in many annual festivals and competitions such as the Merrie Monarch Hula Festival, the King Kamehameha Hula Competition, and the Prince Lot Hula Festival. Performances of ancient as well as modern hula dances and oli (chants) are performed by hālau (hula groups) from throughout the Hawaiian Islands and beyond, and these well-attended events are a testament to the living Hawaiian culture.
Japanese investment capital and tourism were the driving forces of Hawai‘i’s economy in the mid-1980s, but economic downturns in the 1990s in the United States and Japan caused a decrease in Hawai‘i’s rapid tourism growth and slowed the pace of new construction. Hawai‘i’s sugar industry also continued its long decline from more than 100 sugar mills operating in the Hawaiian Islands in the early 1900s to just two today. Lāna‘i’s last major commercial pineapple harvest took place in 1992.
The state’s economy has thrived during the last decade due primarily to tourism. Nearly seven million visitors arrived in the Hawaiian Islands in the year 2000, coming to enjoy the ideal climate, stunning natural beauty, and genuine aloha spirit of Hawai‘i’s people.
Visitor arrivals fell sharply in the years after the September 11, 2002 terrorist attacks on the World Trade Center inNew York and the Pentagon in Virginia. By 2004, tourism numbers had returned to previous levels, and then a new record was set in 2005 when about 7.4 million visitors arrived in the Hawaiian Islands.
Home prices in the Hawaiian Islands have skyrocketed in recent years. These price increases have been due in large part to low interest rates that have spurred a general real estate boom nationwide, with many United States Mainland investors purchasing second (vacation) homes in the Hawaiian Islands.
The sharp rise in real estate values has generally brought windfall profits to investors and homeowners, although it has made it harder for local residents to buy homes and has also caused large increases in property tax assessments, creating significant financial difficulties for some homeowners on fixed incomes.
Many homeowners have converted their long-term rentals to more profitable short-term vacation rentals, displacing local residents and changing the character of local neighborhoods, while also worsening the already severe shortage of affordable housing.
The state’s changing demographics have also brought new influences to local and state governments. In 2002, Linda Lingle became the first Republican governor in 40 years.
Local leaders seek to diversify Hawai‘i’s economy by encouraging high tech companies, specialty agriculture, and other quality career options for residents. Despite these efforts, however, the state’s economy remains driven by the seemingly endless growth of the visitor industry and the state’s work force is increasingly comprised of lower paying, service-oriented jobs.
Authentic cultural experiences and “eco-tourism” are promoted as ways to develop a sustainable economy that values the perpetuation of Hawaiian culture and the preservation of Hawai‘i’s environment while continuing to share these aspects of the Islands with visitors. Many employers honor local traditions, and the tourist industry in general has increased its efforts to share correct cultural knowledge in a way that is respectful to native Hawaiians, many of whom continue their ancient traditions and native culture—fishing, hunting, gathering plants from the land and limu from the ocean, stringing beautiful flower lei, and spending time with their ‘ohana (extended families).
Hawai‘i’s tropical landscapes are filled with rare and extraordinary plants, animals, and birds while the coral reefs offshore support a multitude of colorful fish and fascinating marine life, an amazing array of unique life forms that evolved in isolation over millions of years. Scientists consider the Hawaiian Islands a natural laboratory of evolutionary processes like nowhere else on Earth, and researchers from around the world come to study Hawai‘i’s unique flora and fauna.
Hawai‘i is also the capital of endangered and extinct species—about half of Hawai‘i’s endemic (unique) birds are already extinct, and Hawai‘i accounts for nearly 70% of the United States’ plant and animal extinctions. In recent decades, however, many endangered species populations have been protected and restored. The nēnē goose (Hawai‘i’s state bird) and the humpback whale (Hawai‘i’s state marine mammal) were both close to extinction, but are now growing in numbers.
Hawai‘i is a beautiful and enchanted land, a place of pristine, white-sand beaches, luminous rainbows, waterfall-laced mountains, and lush valleys, but there are also dangers. Hawai‘i can be a rugged and unforgiving place—volcanic eruptions, hurricanes, landslides, tsunamis—and the daily news often tells of rescues on the rough seas and in the treacherous mountains.
Several major tsunamis have brought destruction to the Hawaiian Islands in the last century, including the 1946 and 1960 tsunamis that together killed more than 200 people. Hurricanes have also brought devastation—Hurricane ‘Iniki in 1992 caused more than $3 billion in property damage.
Recently the Native Hawaiian Reorganization Act (the Akaka Bill), sought to provide federal recognition to native Hawaiians and protect Hawaiian entitlements jeopardized by the U.S. Supreme Court decision in the Rice vs. Cayetanocase in February of 2000, which prohibited Hawaiians-only voting in Office of Hawaiian Affairs elections. The Akaka Bill failed to be approved by the U.S. Congress in 2006, and the future of many Hawaiian programs as well as the Hawaiian sovereignty movement remains uncertain with numerous different groups seeking different goals, including federal recognition of Hawaiians as an indigenous group, and reinstatement of a sovereign Hawaiian nation.
As Hawai‘i moves into the future there will be challenges but also great promise, with the continuing revival of traditional native cultural practices, an improving natural environment as species and ecosystems are protected, and a robust economy fueled by Hawai‘i’s worldwide appeal as a visitor destination. Residents of the Hawaiian Islands, feeling lucky to live in one of the most beautiful places on Earth, continue to look to the future even as they cherish the rich history of their land and people.
Historic Periods
of the Hawaiian Islands
Note: Historic periods listed below, except the Modern Period, are based on classifications proposed by Patrick Vinton Kirch in Feathered Gods and Fishhooks (Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1985).
Colonization Period
A.D. 300 (±200)—600
Initial arrival and colonization of the Hawaiian archipelago by Polynesians, most likely from theMarquesas Islands about 2,500 miles (4,000 km) to the southeast. Relatively little is known about the culture, social customs, and rituals of this time period.
Developmental Period
600—1100
Development of food production and acquisition strategies; utilization of plentiful native and Polynesian-introduced resources, including plants, birds, shellfish, and fish (including large game fish); the population reaches an estimated 20,000 people, moving beyond the windward valleys into arid leeward valleys and coastal areas; a unique Hawaiian culture begins to develop.
Expansion Period
1100—1650
Major increase in population; increased agriculture; the first true loko ‘ia (fishponds) and the aquaculture techniques used to manage them; development of ahupua‘a system (natural watershed land divisions extending from the mountains to the sea) with land divisions under the control of sub-chiefs responsible to a paramount chief; and other significant changes in social and political structures.
Protohistoric Period
1650—1778
Further increases in food production, including irrigation in lower valleys; continuing social and political changes with independent chiefdoms competing for rule; changes in architecture of heiau (sacred places of worship), including increasingly large luakini heiau where human sacrifices occur.
Modern Period
1778—Present
Western goods and weapons bring dramatic changes in traditional ways of living; the Hawaiian monarchy is overthrown in 1893; the Hawaiian Islands are annexed to the United States in 1898; sugar becomes the driving force of the economy through the first half of the 1900s; the Islands are increasingly utilized by the U.S. as a strategic military location, and become the 50th state in 1959; tourism grows to seven million annual visitors by 2005.
Nā Mō‘ī Hawai‘i
The Hawaiian Monarchy
The Eight Rulers of the United Hawaiian Kingdom
Hawaiian Monarch Reign Birth Death
King Kamehameha I [Pai‘ea Kamehameha] 1795—May 8, 1819 c.1753 May 8, 1819
King Kamehameha II [Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho] May 20, 1819—July 14, 1824 1796 July 14, 1824
King Kamehameha III [Kauikeaouli] June 6, 1825—Dec. 15, 1854 1814* Dec. 15, 1854
King Kamehameha IV [Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani] Dec. 15, 1854—Nov. 30, 1863 Feb. 9, 1834 Nov. 30, 1863
King Kamehameha V [Lot Kapuāiwa Kamehameha] Nov. 30, 1863—Dec. 11, 1872 Dec. 11, 1830 Dec. 11, 1872
King Lunalilo [William Charles Lunalilo] Jan. 8, 1873—Feb. 3, 1874 Jan. 31, 1835 Feb. 3, 1874
King Kalākaua [David La‘amea Kalākaua] Feb. 13, 1874—Jan. 20, 1891 Nov. 16, 1836 Jan. 20, 1891
Queen Lili‘uokalani [Lydia Kamaka‘eha Pākī] Jan. 29, 1891—Jan. 17, 1893 Sep. 2, 1838 Nov. 11, 1917
[* Note: Though the year of the birth of King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) is known to be 1814, the precise date is uncertain. In 1845 the Privy Council decided to designate March 17 as the official birthday of King Kamehameha III.]
Kuhina Nui
Premiers, or Regents, Sharing Power with the King
Years Kuhina Nui During Reign of:
1819-1824 Ka‘ahumanu King Kamehameha II
1824-1832 Ka‘ahumanu King Kamehameha III
1832-1839 Kīna‘u King Kamehameha III
1839-1845 Kekāuluohi (Miriam ‘Auhea) King Kamehameha III
1845-1854 John Young II (Keoni Ana) King Kamehameha III, IV
1854-1863 Victoria Ka‘ahumanu Kamāmalu King Kamehameha IV, V
1863-1864 Mataio Kekūanaō‘a King Kamehameha V
Hawai‘i’s Major Political Periods
1795—1893 Kingdom of Hawai‘i
1893—1894 Provisional Government
1894—1900 Republic of Hawai‘i
1900—1959 Territory of Hawai‘i
1959—Present Statehood
Governors of the Territory of Hawai‘i
Appointed by the United States President.
Governor Term of Office Birth Death
Sanford B. Dole (Annexationist*) 1900-1903 1844 1926
George R. Carter (Republican) 1903-1907` 1866 1933
Walter F. Frear (Republican) 1907-1913 1863 1948
Lucius E. Pinkham (Democrat) 1913-1918 1850 1922
Charles J. McCarthy (Democrat) 1918-1921 1861 1929
Wallace R. Farrington (Republican 1921-1929 1871 1933
Lawrence M. Judd (Republican) 1929-1934 1877 1968
Joseph B. Poindexter (Democrat) 1934-1942 1869 1951
Ingram M. Stainback (Democrat) 1942-1951 1883 1961
Oren E. Long (Democrat) 1951-1953 1889 1965
Samuel Wilder King (Republican) 1953-1957 1886 1959
William F. Quinn (Republican) 1957-1959 1919
* Republican.
Territorial Delegates to Congress
Delegate Birth/Death Term Political Party
Robert William Wilcox 1855-1903 1900-1902 Home Rule
Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana‘ole 1871-1922 1902-1922 Republican
Henry Alexander Baldwin 1871-1946 1922-1923 Republican*
William Paul Jarrett 1877-1929 1923-1927 Democrat
Victor Stewart Kaleoaloha Houston 1876-1959 1927-1933 Republican
Lincoln Loy McCandless 1859-1940 1933-1935 Democrat
Samuel Wilder King 1886-1959 1935-1943 Republican
Joseph Rider Farrington 1897-1954 1943-1954 Republican
Mary Elizabeth Pruett Farrington 1898-1984 1954-1954 Republican*
Mary Elizabeth Pruett Farrington 1898-1984 1954-1957 Republican
John Anthony Burns 1909-1975 1957-1959 Democrat ` (until statehood)
*Unexpired Term
Governors and Lieutenant Governors
of the State of Hawai‘i
Governor Term of Office
William F. Quinn (Republican) 1959-1962
John A. Burns (Democrat) 1962-1964
George R. Ariyoshi (Democrat) 1974-1986
John D. Waihee III (Democrat) 1986-1994
Benjamin J. Cayetano (Democrat) 1994-2002
Linda Lingle (Republican) 2002-Present
Lieutenant Governor Term of Office
James Kealoha (Republican) 1959-1962
William S. Richardson (Democrat) 1962-1966
Tom Gill (Democrat) 1966-1970
George Ariyoshi (Democrat) 1970-1973
Nelson Doi (Democrat) 1974-1978
Jean King (Democrat) 1978-1982
John D. Waihee III (Democrat) 1982-1986
Benjamin J. Cayetano (Democrat) 1986-1994
Mazie Hirono (Democrat) 1994-2002
James Aiona (Republican) 2002-Present
The State of Hawai‘i
The Aloha State
Facts and Official Information About the State of Hawai‘i
Land Area: 6,423.4 square miles (16,636.6 sq. km).
Size Comparison: 47th largest of the United States.
Statehood: Became 50th state on August 21, 1959.
Latitude: Between 19º and 22º north (main Islands).
Longitude: Between 155º and 161º west (main Islands).
State Bird: Nēnē—Hawaiian goose (Branta sandvicensis).
State Tree: Kukui—Candlenut (Aleurites moluccana).
State Flower: Pua Ma‘o Hau Hele—Yellow Hibiscus (Hibiscus brackenridgei).
State Marine Mammal: Koholā—Humpback Whale (Megaptera novaeangliae).
State Team Sport: Outrigger Canoe Paddling.
State Fish: Humuhumu-nukunuku-ā-pua‘a—Reef triggerfish (Rhinecanthus rectangulus).
State Song (Anthem): Hawai‘i Pono‘ī (words written by King Kalākaua, music by Henry Berger).
State Gem: Black Coral.
Official State Nickname: The Aloha State.
State of Hawai‘i Holidays
Ø New Year’s Day—January 1.
Ø Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. Day—January 19.
Ø Presidents’ Day—February 16.
Ø Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana‘ole Day—March 26.
Ø Good Friday—April 9.
Ø Memorial Day—May 31.
Ø King Kamehameha Day—June 11.
Ø Independence Day—July 11.
Ø Admissions Day—Third Friday in August.
Ø Labor Day—September 6.
Ø Veterans’ Day—November 1.
Ø Election Day—November 2.
Ø Thanksgiving Day—Fourth Thursday in November.
Ø Christmas Day—December 25.
State Motto:
Ua mau ke ea o ka ‘āina i ka pono.
The life of the land is perpetuated (preserved) in righteousness.
State Seal:
Hawai‘i’s State Seal was created in 1959 when the Hawaiian Islands became the 50th state. Designed after the Territorial Seal, the State Seal is circular in shape, with the words “State of Hawai‘i” on the top of the Seal, and Hawai‘i’s State Motto (see above) written on the bottom.
In the middle of the State Seal is a heraldic shield, which is also the state’s Coat of Arms. Kapu sticks are on the lower left and upper right of the shield, and horizontal stripes are at the lower right and upper left of the shield. Above the shield is the sun, and “1959,” commemorating statehood. King Kamehameha I is to the left of the shield, while the Goddess of Liberty (holding the state flag) is on the right side of the shield.
A phoenix with leaves of kalo (Colocasia esculenta, taro), mai‘a (Musa species, banana), and ‘iwa‘iwa (Adiantaceae, maidenhair fern) are at the bottom of the State Seal, which was designed by Viggo Jacobsen in 1895 for the Republic of Hawai‘i. The State Seal was designed after the Territorial Seal.
[Photograph: State Seal]
Ocean Channels Between Islands
Kaulakahi Channel “The single flame (streak of color”[7]) Between Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau
Ka‘ie‘iewaho Channel* “Outer Ka‘ie‘ie,”[8] after ‘ie‘ie vine.[9]B etween Kaua‘i and O‘ahu
Kaiwi Channel “The bone”[10] Moloka‘i and O‘ahu
Kalohi Channel “The slowness”[11] Between Lāna‘i and Moloka‘i
Pailolo Channel “Pai (lift), oloolo (shifting)”[12] Between Maui and Moloka‘i
‘Au‘au Channel “Bathe”[13] Between Lāna‘i and Maui
Kealaikahiki Channel “The way to foreign lands”[14] Kaho‘olawe and Lāna‘i
‘Alalākeiki Channel “Child’s wail (believed heard here)”[15] Maui and Kaho‘olawe
‘Alenuihāhā Channel “Great billows smashing”[16] Between Maui and Hawai‘i Island
*The Ka‘ie‘iewaho is also called the Kaua‘i Channel.
Distances:
Hawai‘i Island to Midway Atoll: 1,580 miles (2,543 km).
Hawai‘i Island to Kaua‘i: More than 400 miles (644 km).
Honolulu to Equator: 1,470 miles (2,366 km).
Honolulu to Tokyo, Japan: 3,847 miles (6,191 km).
Honolulu to Los Angeles, California: 2,557 miles (4,115 km).
Honolulu to Anchorage Alaska: 2,781 miles (4,476 km).
Honolulu to Midway Atoll: 1,309 miles (2,107 km).
[Illustration: Map of eight main Hawaiian Islands, each island boldly labeled.]
[Text underneath: The State of Hawai‘i. Text on each island: Kaua‘i, Ni‘ihau, O‘ahu, Maui, Lāna‘i, Kaho‘olawe, Moloka‘i, and Hawai‘i Island.]
[Text below illustration:]
The Hawaiian Islands.
The Hawaiian archipelago slices through the Tropic of Cancer, and extends in a line from southeast to northwest for about 1,523 miles (2,451 km), from Hawai‘i Island at about 19º north latitude to Kure Island at 28.5º north latitude, from 154º to 179º west longitude.
The eight main Hawaiian Islands span from about 19º to 22º north latitude, and from about 154º to 161º west longitude. The main Hawaiian Islands comprise 99.9% of the total land area of the Hawaiian Island Chain. The Northwestern Hawaiian Islands constitute the other .1% (one-tenth of one percent) of the State of Hawai‘i’s land area.
Na kai ‘ewalu.
The eight seas.
The “seas” that divide the eight inhabited islands.
(Pukui: 2224-243)
Each of the Hawaiian Islands was born on the seafloor at the site of the Hawaiian magmatic hot spot, a stationary plume of magma (molten lava) rising up from deep in the Earth (see Hawaiian-Emperor Chain, Chapter 4). This volcanic activity continues today as the uprising lava burns through the crust of the Pacific seafloor and forms volcanoes that eventually rise above the ocean’s surface to become islands.
The Hawaiian Islands are continually carried northwest by the movement of Earth’s crust. The southeast portion of the island of Hawai‘i, the chain’s newest island, is currently above the hot spot plume of lava.
About 18 miles (29 km) off the southeast coast of Hawai‘i Island, Lō‘ihi Seamount is about 3,116 feet (950 m) below the surface of the Pacific Ocean, and rises up more than 9,000 feet (2,743 m) tall from the seafloor. The erupting summit of Lō‘ihi should rise above the water in about 50,000 to 200,000 years from now to become the next Hawaiian Island.
O‘ahu
The Gathering Place
Overview of O‘ahu
Land Area: 596.7 square miles (1,545.4 sq. km).
Size Comparison: 3rd largest Hawaiian Island; most populated island.
Island Emblem: Pua ‘Ilima—Flower of ‘Ilima (Sida fallax).
Highest Elevation: 4,003 feet (1,220 m), at the summit of Ka‘ala (in the Wai‘anae Range).
Official Nickname: The Gathering Place.
[Illustration: Map—O‘ahu]
O‘ahu is about 44 miles (71 km) long by 30 miles (48 km) wide, with more than 112 miles (180 km) of coastline and at least 100 white-sand beaches. Popular surfing sites are found on all sides of O‘ahu, including the north shore’s renowned Banzai Pipeline where the world’s best surfers challenge the giant winter waves.
O‘ahu has more than 800,000 residents, and each day O‘ahu hosts an average of nearly 70,000 tourists. Hotel rooms and vacation accommodations number more than 36,000 rooms.
[Photograph: Waikīkī]
The prominent geographical features of O‘ahu are two parallel mountain ranges: the older Wai‘anae Mountainsand the deep-furrowed Ko‘olau Mountains. Formed by volcanic eruptions more than one million years ago, the two mountain ranges are aligned perpendicular to the northeast tradewinds, creating a wet windward side of O‘ahu (the eastern side) and a much drier leeward side.
The majestic Ko‘olau Mountains run north to south for the entire span of the island of O‘ahu. Between the two major mountain ranges is Leilehua Plateau, a fertile area known for its pineapple production.
[Photograph: Ko‘olau Mountains at Waimanalo (steep, deep furrows)]
O‘ahu has three prominent geologic landmarks known as tuff cones: Koko Head (Kohelepelepe), Punchbowl (Pūowaina), and Diamond Head (Lē‘ahi). These volcanic cones provide visual reminders of the island’s volcanic past. O‘ahu has 62 county parks as well as 25 state parks and three national parks.
O‘ahu
Cultural / Historical Sites and Attractions
Honolulu
‘Iolani Palace
History of ‘Iolani Palace
The Interior of ‘Iolani Palace
Palace to Prison to Capitol
The Restored ‘Iolani Palace
Grand Hall
Blue Room
State Dining Room
Throne Room
The Second Floor of ‘Iolani Palace
Upper Hall
King’s Library
Gold Room
Queen Kapi‘olani’s Bedroom
Queen Lili‘uokalani’s Prison Chamber
‘Iolani Palace Grounds
‘Iolani Barracks
Coronation Pavilion—Keli‘iponi Hale
Royal Tomb
Likelike Gate
Hakaleleponi Gate
Kīna‘u Gate
Kauikeaouli Gate
Ali‘iōlani Hale
King Kamehameha V—Judiciary History Center of Hawai‘i
Center Theater
The Monarchy Courts Gallery
1913 Court Room
Temporary Exhibit Room
Statue of King Kamehameha I
Washington Place—The Governor’s Residence
Bust of Queen Emma
State Capitol Building
Statue of Queen Lili‘uokalani
Statue of Father Damien
Bishop Street
Mission Houses Museum—Nā Hale Hō‘ike‘ike O Nā Mikanele
The Frame House—Hale Lā‘au
Chamberlain House—Hale Kamalani
The Printing Office—Hale Pa‘i
Kawaiaha‘o Church
Tomb of King Lunalilo
Honolulu Hale—City Hall
Hawai‘i State Library
Hawai‘i State Archives—Kekāuluohi Building
Territorial Archives Building (Old Archives Building)—Kana‘ina Building
Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum
History and Purpose
Bishop Museum Today—An Overview
Visiting the Bishop Museum
Vestibule Gallery
Kāhili Room
Hawaiian Hall
Polynesian Hall
Hall of Hawaiian Natural History
Other Museum Areas
Bishop Museum Planetarium
Hall of Discovery
Cooke Rotunda-Explorers Center
Atherton Hālau and Canoe Hale
Castle Hall
Hawaiian Courtyard
Sports Hall of Fame
Bishop Museum Library and Archives
Ray Jerome Baker Room
Hale Kā‘eo & Hawaiian Science Garden
Bishop Museum Press
Other Bishop Museum Sites
Hawai‘i Maritime Center
King Kalākaua Boathouse
Falls of Clyde
Hōkūle‘a and Hawai‘iloa Voyaging Canoes
Bishop Museum at Kālia (Waikīkī)
Amy B. H. Greenwell Ethnobotanical Garden (Hawai‘i Island)
Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop—Princess Pauahi (1831—1884)
Charles Reed Bishop (1822—1915)
Waikīkī
Historic Waikīkī
Waikīkī in Transition
Waikīkī—A Resort Destination
The Waikīkī Beachboys
Modern Waikīkī—Beaches, Historic Sites, and other Attractions
Ala Wai Canal
Kahanamoku Beach and Lagoon
Fort DeRussy Beach
U.S. Army Museum of Hawai‘i
Gray’s Beach
Statue of Princess Ka‘iulani
Royal Moana Beach / Central Waikīkī Beach
Nā Pōhaku Ola Kapaemāhu Ā Kapuni—The Stones of Life
Statue of Duke Kahanamoku
Kūhiō Beach Park
Statue of Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana‘ole
Damien Museum
Kapi‘olani Beach Park
War Memorial Natatorium
San Souci Beach
Kapi‘olani Park
Kapi‘olani Bandstand
Waikīkī Shell
Honolulu Zoo
Zoo Fence Art Mart
Waikīkī Aquarium
Southeast O‘ahu
Diamond Head State Monument
Lē‘ahi
Fort Ruger
Diamond Head Trail
Diamond Head Beach
Koko Head Regional Park
Koko Crater / Koko Head
‘Ihi‘ihilauākea Crater
Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve
Witches Brew
Toilet Bowl
Sandy Beach Park
Hālona Blowhole
Hālona Cove
Makapu‘u Point
Kāohikaipu
Manana Island (Rabbit Island)
Makapu‘u Beach
Sea Life Park
Waimanalo
Waimanalo Beach Park
Waimanalo Bay Beach Park
Bellows Field Beach Park
Pearl Harbor
U.S.S. Arizona Memorial
U.S.S. Missouri
U.S.S. Bowfin Submarine Museum and Park
Keaīwa Heiau
Keaīwa Heiau State Recreation Area
‘Aiea Loop Trail
Leeward O‘ahu
Kapolei
Barbers Point Naval Air Station
Waipahu
Hawai‘i’s Plantation Village
Wai‘anae Coast
Nānākuli
Wai‘anae
Mākaha
Kānē‘ākī Heiau
Mākaha Beach
Mākua Beach
Keawa‘ula (Yokohama Beach)
Ka‘ena Point State Park
The Windward Side—Makapu‘u to Kahuku
Kahuku Point / James Campbell National Wildlife Refuge
Mālaekahana State Recreation Area / Moku‘auia (Goat Island)
Mālaekahana Beach
Kalanai Point
Makahoa Point
Lā‘ie / Polynesian Cultural Center
Punalu‘u Beach Park
Kahana Valley and Bay / Huilua Fishpond
Crouching Lion
Swanzy Beach Park
Ka‘a‘awa
Senator Fong’s Plantation Gardens
Kahalu‘u
Byodo-In / Valley of the Temples Memorial Park
Kāne‘ohe
Kāne‘ohe Bay
Moku-o-Lo‘e (Coconut Island)
Kualoa Regional Park
Apua Pond
Mōli‘i Fishpond
Mokoli‘i (Chinaman’s Hat)
He‘eia State Park
He‘eia Fishpond
Kealohi Point
He‘eia-Kea Harbor
Ho‘omaluhia Botanical Garden
Ulopō Heiau / Kawainui Marsh
Kailua / Kailua Bay
The North Shore
Hale‘iwa
Rainbow Bridge
North Shore Surf & Cultural Museum
Mokulē‘ia Beach
Dillingham Airfield
Mokulē‘ia Beach Park
Waialua Bay
Waimea
Pu‘u-o-mahuka Heiau
Waimea Bay Beach Park
Waimea Falls Park
Pūpūkea Beach Park
Shark’s Cove
Old Quarry
Three Tables
‘Ehukai Beach Park / Banzai Pipeline
Sunset Beach Park
Kawela Bay
Kaihalulu Point
Central O‘ahu
Wahiawā Botanical Garden
Kolekole Pass
O‘ahu
Cultural / Historical Sites and Attractions
Honolulu
The State of Hawai‘i’s capital city of Honolulu (which means “sheltered, or protected bay”) has many cultural and historical attractions, the most prominent of which are described below:
[Insert Map Here of Downtown Honolulu (showing locations listed in Table of Contents above)]
‘Iolani Palace
Location: King and Richards Streets / Phone: 808-522-0832 / www.alike.lcc.hawaii.edu/openstudio/iolani.
Guided tours offered to the public from 9 to 2:15, Tuesday to Saturday; Gallery 9-4.
[Photograph: ‘Iolani Palace]
History of ‘Iolani Palace
The cornerstone for ‘Iolani Palace was laid on December 31, 1879 in midtown Honolulu. Some of the stones used in the foundation of ‘Iolani Palace were brought from Kūki‘i Heiau (in Puna on Hawai‘i Island), which was built by the Hawai‘i Island chief ‘Umi-a-Līloa. ‘Iolani Palace was a project of King Kalākaua, and was built near the site of the earlier royal palace, called Hale Ali‘i. Before Hale Ali‘i was built, there was a heiau (sacred place of worship) on the site.
Hale Ali‘i was originally constructed by Mataio Kekūanaō‘a, a high chief and the Governor of O‘ahu, for his daughter, Princess Victoria Kamāmalu. The house was given to King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) in 1845 when the king moved his court to Honolulu from Lahaina.
Hale Ali‘i was named ‘Iolani in 1863 at the request of King Kamehameha V (Lot Kapuāiwa Kamehameha). The name “‘Iolani” was chosen by King Kamehameha V, who wanted a name chosen to honor his deceased brother, the former king, Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani). ‘Iolani was one of names of Kamehameha IV, and was also a sacred hawk of Hawaiian mythology. ‘Iolani means “Hawk of heaven,” or “Royal hawk.” The flight of the ‘io (Buteo solitarius, Hawaiian hawk) is believed to be a sign of royalty. (See Hawaiian Hawk, Chapter 7.)
[Photograph: ‘Io, Hawaiian hawk]
Hale Ali‘i was demolished in 1876 due to termites. The construction of ‘Iolani Palace began in 1879, and in 1882 ‘Iolani Palace was completed and furnished. Utilizing three different architects, and measuring 140 feet (42.7 m) long and 100 feet (30.5 m) wide, ‘Iolani Palace cost nearly $360,000 to build. The architectural style of the palace was said by newspapers of the day to be “American Florentine” architecture, or “American Composite.”
‘Iolani Palace was the royal palace of the Hawaiian monarchy for King Kalākaua and Queen Kapi‘olani from 1882 to 1891, and then was the royal palace for Queen Lili‘uokalani for the next two years, until the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy in 1893. Many valuable items were taken from ‘Iolani Palace by those involved in the overthrow of the monarchy, and much of the Palace furniture was sold between 1895 and 1903 in public auctions.
After the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy (see Chapter 11, Timeline: 1893), ‘Iolani Palace was used as the capitol building of the Republic of Hawai‘i (1893-1900), and then as the capitol building for the Territory of Hawai‘i (1900-1959), and eventually for the State of Hawai‘i (1960-1969). During this time, ‘Iolani Palace was known as the Executive Building.
The Throne Room was used for meetings of the House of Representatives, and the State Dining Room was used as the Senate Chambers. The Minister of Finance used the Blue Room, where heavy safes were installed, while the Minister of Foreign Affairs used the Gold Room, and the Attorney General used Queen Kapi‘olani’s Bedroom. The Secretary of the Territory used the room now known as Queen Lili‘uokalani’s Prison Chamber, which later housed the Lieutenant Governor of the State of Hawai‘i.
In 1969, the new State Capitol was constructed and the long process of the restoration of ‘Iolani Palace began.
The Interior of ‘Iolani Palace
At least four years before the United States’ White House installed electricity, the original gas lamps in ‘Iolani Palace were replaced with electric lights. King Kalākaua was very interested in new technology, and once met Thomas Edison. Electric lights were installed at ‘Iolani Palace on July 21, 1886. Five lamps in all were installed, including one at the Palace, one at the gate to the Palace on Richards Street, two on King Street, and one at the Government Building.
Within two years Honolulu’s streetlights, which were formerly gasoline lamps, were also replaced with electric lights. ‘Iolani Palace was also ahead of its time in other ways, including flushing toilets and bidets, hot and cold running water, copper-lined tubs and other amenities.
Beautifully crafted native and Polynesian-introduced woods such as koa (Acacia koa), kou (Cordia subcordata), kamani (Calophyllum inophyllum, Alexandrian laurel), and ‘ōhi‘a lehua (Metrosideros species) were used throughout the interior along with other fine hardwoods.
[Photograph: Grand Hall entrance to ‘Iolani Palace showing koa staircase]
Formal functions were held on the main floor of ‘Iolani Palace, and the royal family resided on the second floor. An attic helped keep the building cool, and the basement of the palace housed the Palace kitchen. The basement was also where all the silver, wines, food and other materials were stored in order to supply the lavish social events held at the Palace. A dumbwaiter transported the royal meals up to the first and second floors.
The basement also housed the office of the Chamberlain, who managed the many activities occurring at ‘Iolani Palace on a daily basis. The basement had rooms to house more than forty servants, and also a room that held the kāhili, the feather standards that were symbols of Hawaiian royalty. Many of these kāhili are now on display in the basement of ‘Iolani Palace, along with other precious cultural artifacts. The kitchen is also beautifully restored to authentically represent the era of the monarchy.
Palace to Prison to Capitol
On January 6, 1895, there was a minor (and failed) attempt by a small group of Hawaiians (apparently with no direct participation by Queen Lili‘uokalani), to begin a counterrevolution to restore the queen (see Chapter 11, Timeline: 1895, Jan. 6). Queen Lili‘uokalani denied any involvement, but Martial Law was declared on January 7 and a military commission was appointed to court martial Queen Lili‘uokalani and others. On January 16, 1895 Queen Lili‘uokalani was imprisoned in ‘Iolani Palace. On January 24, 1895 the queen signed a formal abdication and called for the recognition of the Republic of Hawai‘i as the lawful government. Queen Lili‘uokalani later claimed that this abdication was invalid due to coercion.
On February 5, Queen Lili‘uokalani was arraigned before the military commission for treason, a charge later changed to misprision of treason (knowing of the attempted counterrevolution but not disclosing it). On February 27, 1895, Queen Lili‘uokalani was found guilty of misprision of treason and sentenced to a fine of $5,000 and imprisonment with hard labor for five years. This sentence was not carried out, though she remained imprisoned in ‘Iolani Palace for seven months.
Queen Lili‘uokalani was released from ‘Iolani Palace on September 6, 1895, but was then confined to Washington Place until February 6, 1896, and then island-restricted until October 6, 1896. Lili‘uokalani’s freedom was restricted for 21 months in all, from Jan. 16, 1895 until October 6, 1896. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1895, Jan. 6; 1879, Dec. 31.)
The defiling of ‘Iolani Palace after the overthrow of the monarchy was followed by many decades of use the Palace as a capitol building (1893 to 1969), for the Republic, Territory, and State of Hawai‘i, leaving the Palace in disrepair. After extensive renovations, beginning in 1969, ‘Iolani Palace was opened as a museum in 1978.
The non-profit organization Friends of ‘Iolani Palace now runs the museum, offering guided tours of the United States’ only royal palace. Friends of ‘Iolani Palace also continues to tackle the daunting task of retrieving (sometimes from distant collections) the numerous original furnishings and effects that were taken from ‘Iolani Palace after the overthrow of the monarchy.
The Restored ‘Iolani Palace
The various rooms of ‘Iolani Palace each have their own decor and their own history, including the church-likeGrand Hall, which spans the width of the palace. Royal portraits line the walls of the Grand Hall, with ten kings and queens of the monarchy on display. From the Grand Hall guests were escorted into the adjoining reception rooms. A prominent koa wood staircase in the Grand Hall leads to the second floor’s Upper Hall (described below).
The stately Blue Room, which is directly on the left after entering the Palace, was used for informal meetings and small receptions. The room’s blue satin drapes are trimmed with velvet, and on display are matching portraits of Queen Lili‘uokalani and King Kalākaua, both painted by William Cogswell. Renowned portraitist Franz-Xavier Winterhalter created the portrait of King Louis Philippe of France, which is also on display in the Blue Room. The painting was a gift from the French government to King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) in 1848. The Blue Room once held a grand piano that was often played by members of the royal family, many of who were competent musicians.
On January 14, 1893, Queen Lili‘uokalani summoned her Cabinet Ministers to the Blue Room and presented them with a new constitution whose principal aim was to restore the royal prerogatives. This was the initial event that led to the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy.
Adjoining the Blue Room is the State Dining Room, which is adorned with portraits of world leaders from England, France, Germany and Russia. Bohemian crystal and Paris porcelain add to the aura of formality of this room. After the overthrow of the monarchy, the State Dining Room was used as the Senate Chambers by the Territory and then the State of Hawai‘i.
[Photographs: Blue Room; State Dining Room]
Another first floor room is the Throne Room, which contains numerous historic artifacts such as the original thrones of King Kalākaua and Queen Lili‘uokalani. Gold and maroon colors decorate the Throne Room along with symbols of Hawaiian royalty, such as kāhili (royal feather standards), and a pūlo‘ulo‘u, consisting of a gold sphere atop a 7-foot (2.1-m) spiral, ivory tusk from a narwhal whale (Monodon monoceros). In ancient Hawai‘i, the ball on top of a traditional pūlo‘ulo‘u was made of kapa (tapa) barkcloth, and the pūlo‘ulo‘u was used to signal the presence of a chief.
[Photograph: Throne Room]
The Throne Room was used for formal receptions, and is also where King Kalākaua and Queen Kapi‘olani threw elaborate and grand balls. The king was also known to dance the polka and Virginia reel, and sometimes waltzed through the night.
On a more somber note, the Throne Room is where Queen Lili‘uokalani was prosecuted by the Republic of Hawai‘i after the 1895 rebellion led by her supporters who were attempting to restore the deposed queen to power (see Chapter 11, Timeline: 1895, Jan. 6). The Throne Room was later used by the House of Representatives of the new government.
The Second Floor of ‘Iolani Palace
A grand koa wood staircase ascends to the second floor’s Upper Hall, which was used for private dining and sometimes for displaying royal possessions, such as kāhili (royal feather standards) and ahu‘ ula (royal feather capes and cloaks).
Rooms on the second floor include the King’s Suite (King Kalākaua’s bedroom), the King’s Library, the Gold Room, and Queen Kapi‘olani’s Bedroom. Also on the second floor is Queen Lili‘uokalani’s Prison Chamber, where she was imprisoned for eight months after the overthrow of the monarchy.
The King’s Library served as King Kalākaua’s office. On display are some of his original books along with a large table and high-backed Elizabethan-style chairs. A telephone mounted on the wall was one of the first in Honolulu.
[Photograph: King’s Library]
After the overthrow of the monarchy in 1893, the King’s Library as well King Kalākaua’s bedroom was used by Sanford B. Dole, who was the first President of Provisional Government. Dole later became President of the Republic of Hawai‘i (1895 to1898), and then the first Governor of the Territory of Hawai‘i (1898 to 1903). Dole’s successors also used the quarters.
The Gold Room, also called the Music Room, was used for gatherings of the royal family. After the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy, the Minister of Foreign Affairs used the Gold Room.
Queen Kapi‘olani’s Bedroom, which is on the Waikīkī side of the building, is decorated with red upholstery and curtains, and mahogany furniture. After the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy, the Attorney General used the room.
On January 16, 1895, when Queen Lili‘uokalani was imprisoned in ‘Iolani Palace, she was confined to a sparsely furnished second floor room now referred to as Queen Lili‘uokalani’s Prison Chamber. The deposed queen was allowed paper and pencils to write, but was not allowed to read newspapers or books. Now on display in the room (under glass) is the queen’s hand-stitched silk quilt. During her imprisonment, the queen stitched into this quilt the Hawaiian flag as well as the names of people who remained loyal to her during the political crisis.
After Queen Lili‘uokalani was freed from her imprisonment in ‘Iolani Palace (her former home), her room was used by the new government as the office for the Secretary of the Territory. Later the room was used as the office of the Lieutenant Governor of the State of Hawai‘i.
‘Iolani Palace Grounds
The medieval looking ‘Iolani Barracks building was constructed in 1870, opening in 1871. Firing loops are built into the walls of ‘Iolani Barracks and archery parapets are located atop the building. Designed by Theodore Heuck, a German immigrant, the structure was used by the Kingdom’s army, originally known as the Household Troops and comprised of about 60 soldiers. An inner courtyard area was used for roll call. The army was later called the Household Guard, or Royal Guard, and included the Royal Hawaiian Band.
‘Iolani Barracks now houses The Palace Shop (selling books and gifts), and a small theater where visitors are shown a short film about the history of ‘Iolani Palace. ‘Iolani Barracks is also the place to purchase ‘Iolani Palace tour tickets.
‘Iolani Barracks was originally constructed in 1870 at an adjacent site, where the State Capitol now stands. Stone by stone, ‘Iolani Barracks was moved in 1965 to its present location, at 364 South King Street on the ‘Iolani Palace grounds, and completely restored. ‘Iolani Barracks was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1978.
Another structure on the grounds of ‘Iolani Palace is the Coronation Pavilion, also known as Keli‘iponi Hale. The Coronation Pavilion is an octagonal, copper-domed structure with eight tapered columns. The Pavilion was built for the coronation ceremony of King Kalākaua and Queen Kapi‘olani, which took place on February 12, 1883. The coronation was a gallant ceremony during which King Kalākaua placed upon his own head a jeweled crown, and then placed another slightly smaller crown on Queen Kapi‘olani. These crowns are now on display in the basement of ‘Iolani Palace.
Two weeks of festivities included a grand lū‘au, parades, gun salutes, fireworks and formal receptions. The ceremony also included the unveiling of the statue of King Kamehameha I (see below) in front of Ali‘iōlani Hale across the street from the ‘Iolani Palace. The Coronation Pavilion was also used for King Kalākaua’s 50th birthday jubilee, which took place in November of 1886.
[Photographs: ‘Iolani Barracks; Coronation Pavilion]
The Coronation Pavilion is now used for inaugurations of Governors of the State of Hawai‘i, as well as for concerts by the Royal Hawaiian Band. Originally the Coronation Pavilion was closer to the Palace, near the steps on the King Street side and connected by a bridge to the first floor veranda. The Pavilion was later moved to its current location a bit farther from ‘Iolani Palace (near the King-Richards Street corner). In the early 1900s a concrete basement was added, and concrete columns and balustrades replaced what had been delicate woodwork. During World War II the Pavilion was used as a bomb shelter.
On the makai-Diamond Head side of ‘Iolani Palace grounds, a wrought iron fence surrounds a grassy mound, which was once the Royal Tomb of King Kamehameha II (Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho) and Queen Kamāmalu, both of who died of measles in London, England in 1824. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1824). In 1865, with a solemn torchlight procession, their royal remains were moved to Nu‘uanu Valley where the Royal Mausoleum had been completed (see Royal Mausoleum below). The bones of other Hawaiian royalty may still be buried beneath the grassy mound on the Palace grounds.
Between ‘Iolani Barracks and the Coronation Pavilion is a kukui tree (Aleurites moluccana, candlenut tree) planted by Franklin Delano Roosevelt on July 26, 1934.
[Photographs: ‘Iolani Barracks; Coronation Pavilion]
An 8-foot (2.4-m) tall, coral block wall once surrounded the ‘Iolani Palace grounds, with wooden gates allowing entry and exit. The Wilcox Rebellion in 1889 (see Chapter 11, Timeline: 1889, July 30) resulted in the lowering of the wall to 42 inches (107 cm), and then in 1891 an iron fence was installed atop the wall.
The four main Palace gates are designated for specific purposes: the Likelike Gate was used by royalty; theHakaleleponi Gate was used by retainers; the Kīna‘u Gate was where tradesmen entered; and the Kauikeaouli Gate was used for state ceremonies.
[Photograph: ‘Iolani Palace]
Ali‘iōlani Hale
Location: 417 South King Street, Honolulu / Phone: 808-539-4999 / Website: Jhchawaii.org
Open free to general public for self-guided tours; Mon.-Fri., 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.
[Photograph: Ali‘iōlani Hale]
King Kamehameha V (Lot Kapuāiwa Kamehameha) laid the cornerstone for Ali‘iōlani Hale on February 19, 1872, and the building was completed in 1874. Ali‘iōlani Hale has housed Hawai‘i’s Supreme Court since the days of the monarchy. The building has also housed the Legislature. Before Ali‘iōlani Hale could be constructed, the O‘ahu Charity School had to be removed from the site. The school had been established in 1831 to provide education to children born to Hawaiian mothers and foreign fathers. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1831.)
Hawai‘i’s Supreme Court met in private houses in Honolulu until 1852, when the Honolulu Courthouse was built (using coral blocks) on Queen Street near the old Honolulu Fort. A year later a second story was added to the Honolulu Courthouse. At the time, the Honolulu Courthouse was one of the largest buildings in Honolulu, and was also the site of many social events including banquets, musical performances, church services and official ceremonies. Hawai‘i’s Legislature also met in the Honolulu Courthouse.
Following the election of King Kalākaua in 1874 (see Chapter 11, Timeline: 1874, Feb. 12), the Honolulu Courthouse was extensively damaged in a riot by supporters of Queen Emma, who had asserted a claim to the throne but lost the election. Ali‘iōlani Hale became the new seat of the Hawaiian government, and the old Honolulu Courthouse became the main office for Amfac (American Factors Ltd., a “Big Five” company). Though Ali‘iōlani Hale was never used as a royal palace, that was the original purpose of the building.
Ali‘iōlani was one of the names of King Kamehameha V (Lot Kapuāiwa Kamehameha), and is thought to be a contraction of Ali‘i-iō-lani, which means “Chief unto heavens” referring to the heavenly nature of Hawaiian royalty. One interpretation of the building name, Ali‘iōlani Hale, is “House of Heavenly Kings.” King Kamehameha V planned and initiated the construction of the building, which was designed by Australian architect Thomas Rowe and built with concrete blocks. It was the first major Western-style building constructed by the Hawaiian monarchy, and is notable for its distinctive clock tower.
On July 30, 1889, Robert W. Wilcox (who was part Hawaiian) led about 150 armed insurgents in a revolt against King Kalākaua. At 6 a.m. the men marched to Ali‘iōlani Hale and took over the building as well as the grounds of ‘Iolani Palace.
The rebels opposed reform measures instituted in 1887, and wanted the king to proclaim a new constitution. King Kalākaua refused and shots are exchanged between Wilcox’s men and government forces, who placed sharpshooters in the tower of Kawaiaha‘o Church and surrounding buildings. Bombs made with dynamite were thrown into the grounds of ‘Iolani Palace, scattering the rebels. Seven insurgents were killed and 12 more wounded.
From 1874 until 1893, Ali‘iōlani Hale housed the Legislature of the Kingdom of Hawai‘i. Sanford Ballard Dole stood on the steps of Ali‘iōlani Hale in January of 1893 and announced that a Provisional Government had been formed after the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy (see Chapter 11, Timeline: 1893, Jan.). The Provisional Government renamed Ali‘iōlani Hale “The Court House.” The House of Representatives and the House of Nobles met at Ali‘iōlani Hale until 1896, when they moved to ‘Iolani Palace (renamed “The Executive Building”).
In 1911, Ali‘iōlani Hale underwent reconstruction. The building was in disrepair due to termite damage, and was set on fire so only the exterior walls remained. Architects Ripley and Reynolds designed the new floor plan, which still exists today. The new design included a rotunda and double staircase, along with steel beams to reinforce the structure. A new wing was completed in 1944, and a second story was added to the new wing in 1949. The interior of the building was completely refurbished in 1965, and in 1972, Ali‘iōlani Hale was placed on the National Register of Historic Places. A new series of renovations and restoration began in 1978.
Today Ali‘iōlani Hale includes the King Kamehameha V—Judiciary History Center of Hawai‘i, founded in 1989. The Judiciary History Center provides educational exhibits, and includes the Center Theater, which presents two multi-media shows, Law of the Land, and Kānāwai, that discuss how today’s law evolved in the Hawaiian Islands. TheMonarchy Courts Gallery provides information about Hawai‘i’s judicial processes in the 19th century (and earlier), and the 1913 Court Room displays a complete courtroom from that era.
The Temporary Exhibit Room features educational exhibits such as Hawai‘i Under Martial Law: 1941-1944,with artifacts and displays that give the visitor a unique understanding of the topics. In front of Ali‘iōlani Hale is a statue of King Kamehameha I (see below).
Statue of King Kamehameha I
Location: 417 South King Street—in front of Ali‘iōlani Hale.
‘Oni kalalea ke ku a ka lā‘au loa.
A tall tree stands above the others.
Said of a person of outstanding achievements.
(Pukui: 2520-275)
[Photograph: King Kamehameha I with Ali‘iōlani Hale in background]
Now an O‘ahu landmark, the statue of King Kamehameha I was unveiled in 1883 in front of Ali‘iōlani Hale, the judiciary building opposite ‘Iolani Palace. The King Kamehameha I statue was unveiled as part of King Kalākaua’s coronation ceremony at ‘Iolani Palace.
The former king, also known as Kamehameha the Great, remains the most renowned and revered warrior and ruler of the Hawaiian Islands. King Kamehameha was responsible for uniting the Hawaiian Islands under one rule and establishing the Kingdom of Hawai‘i, which lasted until the overthrow of the monarchy in 1893.
A royal proclamation in 1872 began the recognition of what was then known as Commemoration Day but is now known as King Kamehameha Day, which is celebrated every June 11. On this date the King Kamehameha I statue is draped with many different types of lei, some more than 26 feet (8 m) long.
The statue of King Kamehameha I in front of Ali‘iōlani Hale is a replica of the original 9-ton (8-mton) statue cast by American sculptor Thomas Gould in Italy in 1883 (based on an early engraving). That statue was lost in transport to the Hawaiian Islands, but later found in the Falkland Islands soon after the duplicate statue arrived in Honolulu. The original statue is now on Hawai‘i Island where it stands in front of the North Kohala Civic Center in Kapa‘au, near to where the future ruler of the Hawaiian Kingdom was born. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1753.)
The King Kamehameha I statue is about 8½ feet (2.6 m) tall, showing the warrior king holding an ihe (spear), and wearing a mahiole (feather-crested helmet). He is also wearing an ‘ahu ‘ula (royal feather cloak) a malo (loin cloth), and kāma‘a‘ie (braided sandals). The statue is said to represent King Kamehameha I at the age of about 45.
Washington Place—The Governor’s Residence
Location: 20 South Beretania Street / Phone: 808-586-0157
Open to the public on special occasions / www.firstlady.state.hi.us/washingtonplace.htm.
[Photograph: Washington Place]
Washington Place is a two-story home built in the Colonial Greek Revival style by sea captain and merchant John Dominis, the husband of Mary Dominis and the father-in-law of Queen Lili‘uokalani. The home was completed in 1847 after five years of construction.
John Dominis was a wealthy New England trader. In 1846, he sailed for China where he intended to purchase elegant furnishing for Washington Place. Unfortunately he never returned, apparently lost at sea.
The residence was named Washington Place by King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli), who was impressed by the stories he had heard about George Washington from the American ambassador to the Hawaiian Islands, who rented a room in the home from Mrs. Dominis. The widow Dominis was often seen gardening on the grounds.
The son of Mr. and Mrs. Dominis, John Owen Dominis, married Princess Lili‘uokalani in 1862, and they inherited Washington Place. Queen Lili‘uokalani lived in Washington Place for 55 years, including when she was heir to the throne, as well as after she was deposed. Queen Lili‘uokalani was confined to Washington Place after she was released from her imprisonment in ‘Iolani Palace on September 6, 1895. She remained confined to Washington Place until February 6, 1896, and was then island-restricted until October 6, 1896. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1895, Jan. 6.) The queen lived at Washington Place until she died in the home’s downstairs bedroom in 1917.
In 1921, due to the political efforts of Prince Kūhiō, the Territory of Hawai’i purchased the stately Washington Place so it could be used as a governor’s mansion. Twelve different governors of the State of Hawai‘i, and their families, have lived in Washington Place since 1922 (the last was the Cayetano family).
Renovations to Washington Place took place in 1922, 1929, and 1953, and in 1973 the building was placed on the National Register of Historic Places. The historic home still contains many of Queen Lili‘uokalani’s prized possessions, including fine furniture and Ni‘ihau shell lei. Also on display are musical instruments belonging to the queen, including a grand piano made of koa wood. The sidewalk to the left of Washington Place displays a plaque with the words Aloha ‘Oe, the name of a well-loved song written by Queen Lili‘uokalani.
Private fundraising efforts led by the Washington Place Foundation raised more than $1 million to build a new governor’s residence. The 5,000-square-foot (465-sq-m) structure was built on an acre of land directly behind Washington Place, where the service quarters were formerly located.
Washington Place is now a Museum with historical exhibits primarily dedicated to telling the story of Queen Lili‘uokalani. The museum, known as a historic interpretive center, includes displays of the Queen’s personal effects as well as important personal papers and historical documents. Washington Place also continues to be used as a public reception area.
Bust of Queen Emma
Location: Adjacent to Washington Place, in front of St. Andrew’s Priory School for Girls.
Queen Emma (1836-1885) was the great-granddaughter of the brother of King Kamehameha I and queen as wife of King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani), who she married in 1856.
Also given the name Kalanikaumakeamano, Emma Na‘ea Rooke was the daughter of Fanny Kakelaokalani Young and George Na‘ea. She was adopted by her maternal aunt, Grace Kamaikui Young Rooke and Grace’s husband, Dr. Thomas Charles Byde Rooke. Queen Emma and King Kamehameha IV gave birth to Prince Albert, who died in 1862 at age four. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1836 for Biographical Sketch of Queen Emma.)
State Capitol Building
Location: 415 South Beretania Street (at Richards Street / Phone: 808-586-0178
Public tours by appointment. Open Mon.-Fri., 7:45-4:30.
[Photograph: State Capitol]
The State Capitol is supported by tall columns and has an open central court area and volcano-shaped Legislative chambers. The whole complex is encircled by large reflecting pools that are symbolic of the ocean surrounding the Hawaiian Islands. The sloped walls of the Legislative chambers are symbolic of volcanoes of the Hawaiian Islands.
A major renovation of the State Capitol was completed in 1997. The public may walk through the open-air rotunda area with a view into the Legislative chambers.
In front of the State Capitol is a statue of Father Damien (see below), as well as a replica of the Liberty Bell, which was presented to the Hawaiian government by the United States Treasury Department on July 4, 1950. Just across the street is an eternal flame that burns as part of a palm-lined Memorial to the men and women who served in the United States Armed Forces.
Statue of Queen Lili‘uokalani
Location: South Beretania Street side of the State Capitol, facing Washington Place.
‘Onipa‘a.
Stand firm.
Motto of Lili‘uokalani.
(Pukui: 2521-275)
[Photograph: Statue of Queen Lili‘uokalani]
Between ‘Iolani Palace and the State Capitol is a bronze statue of Queen Lili‘uokalani, the last queen of the Hawaiian Islands. Marianna Pineda sculpted the statue in 1982. The statue faces Queen Lili‘uokalani’s former home, Washington Place.
Queen Lili‘uokalani’s reign lasted from January 29, 1891 to January 17, 1893, when the monarchy was overthrown and a Provisional Government was declared (see Chapter 11, Timeline: 1893, Jan. 14). Queen Lili‘uokalani spent the rest of her life working toward the good of the Hawaiian people. She made numerous trips to Washington D.C. to appeal for a settlement of the disputed crown lands and fair treatment for “her people,” the native Hawaiians.
The statue of the queen, who was the last monarch of the Hawaiian Islands, shows her holding the Kumulipo (Hawaiian creation chant) and Aloha ‘Oe, a favorite song she wrote. The statue also holds the constitution that Queen Lili‘uokalani wrote in 1893, which resulted in the events that led to the overthrow of the monarchy.
Statue of Father Damien
Location: In front of the State Capitol Building, facing Beretania Street.
[Photograph: Statue of Father Damien]
Father Damien is renown for ministering to victims of Hansen’s Disease (leprosy) at the Moloka‘i colony. Sculpted by Marisol Escobar of Venezuela in 1969, the statue of Father Damien in front of the State Capitol shows him as he appeared after being ravaged by the disease.
The statue of Father Damien, known as the “martyr of Moloka‘i” stands as a reminder of selflessness and good will toward others. A servant to those in need, Father Damien was beatified by Pope John Paul II on June 4, 1995 in Brussels,Belgium. (For more information about Father Damien, see Damien Museum (below); Moloka‘i section; and Chapter 11, Chapter 11, Timeline: 1865; 1873; 1889; 1969; 1995.)
Bishop Street
Bishop Street is the hub of banking and other major businesses in the Hawaiian Islands. This is particularly significant given that Honolulu is also considered the financial center of the Pacific.
Bishop Street is named after Charles Reed Bishop (1822-1915), a prominent banker and public official, and the husband of Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop (1831-1844), a Hawaiian princess and the granddaughter of King Kamehameha I.
In 1858, Charles Reed Bishop founded the firm Aldrich & Bishop, later called Bank of Bishop & Co. Ltd., and today known as the First Hawaiian Bank. He also founded the Bishop Museum in 1889 in honor of his wife, Princess Pauahi, whose will endowed Kamehameha Schools to educate children of Hawaiian blood. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1887; 1894.)
Today the Bishop Estate, officially renamed Kamehameha Schools, continues to operate Kamehameha Schools, including the 600-acre (243-ha) Kapālama campus in Honolulu as well as smaller campuses on Maui and Hawai‘i Island. The Estate has vast land holdings and investments worth nearly $7 billion, and educates more than 51,000 students annually on three campuses as well as through charter schools, community outreach programs, and in 28 preschools.
Mission Houses Museum—Nā Hale Hō‘ike‘ike O Nā Mikanele
Location: 553 S. King Street, Honolulu (across from Kawaiaha‘o Church / Phone: 808-531-0481
Open 9 to 4, Tues.—Sat. / www.lava.net/ormhm/main.htm
[Photograph: Mission Houses Museum]
Now known as Nā Hale Hō‘ike‘ike O Nā Mikanele (“Exhibition House of the Missionaries”), the Mission Houses Museum includes the home of the first missionaries as well as an early printing press brought by the missionaries to help spread their Christian message in the Hawaiian language.
The Sandwich Islands Mission was established in 1820 by American Protestant missionaries who arrived in the Hawaiian Islands aboard the brig Thaddeus with the First Company of American missionaries (see Chapter 11, Timeline: 1820, Mar. 31). By the 1840s at least 17 mission stations were found throughout the Hawaiian Islands.
The original missionary buildings in Honolulu, known as Missionary Row, were built for the missionaries by order of the King Kamehameha II (Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho). The original Hale Pule (Christian Meeting House) was built in 1821 where Kawaiaha‘o Church now sits, just across the street from the Mission Houses Museum.
The Mission Houses Museum is a Registered National Historic Landmark. The three buildings still standing from the original Sandwich Islands Mission headquarters are: the Frame House (Hale Lā‘au), the Chamberlain House (Hale Kamalani), and the Printing Office (Hale Pa‘i). Across the street is a historic adobe schoolhouse that is now a Hawaiian Immersion School.
Newer buildings on the Mission Houses Museum site include the Museum Shop, which offers books and crafts for sale, as well as the Tea Parlor. The Mission Houses Museum also sponsors educational classes, workshops, and instruction in researching the materials of the Hawaiian Historical Society and the Hawaiian Mission Children’s Society Library.
The Frame House—Hale Lā‘au
Also known as Hale Lā‘au (Lā‘au means “Wood”), the Frame House was built in 1821. The two-story prefabricated structure was brought around Cape Horn by the missionaries. The Frame House served as a residence for different missionary families as well as boarders and visitors. Missionaries that lived in the house included Hiram Bingham, Gerrit Judd, and Elisha Loomis (the printer). In 1841 a coral block structure was added.
The Frame House is the oldest wood frame house in the Hawaiian Islands, and is now restored to reflect its original architecture and decor, including furnishings representing its appearance more than 180 years ago.
Chamberlain House—Hale Kamalani
Constructed in 1831, the Chamberlain House is built of coral blocks and was the home of the Mission’s business agent, Levi Chamberlain (1792-1849), who had arrived in the Hawaiian Islands as a lay missionary in 1823. The Chamberlain House was also was used to store the considerable amount of supplies of the mission. Levi Chamberlain later helped to found O‘ahu’s Punahou School (originally called Kapunahou), which was established in 1841 by Hiram Bingham. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1841.)
The Printing Office—Hale Pa‘i
Also known as Hale Pa‘i (Pa‘i means “To print”), the Printing Office was the home of the Mission Press, and is also known as the birthplace of the written Hawaiian language. The missionary’s Ramage printing press was originally installed in the nearby grass thatched Christian Meeting House (Hale Pule) until the coral stone Printing Office (Hale Pa‘i) was built in 1823.
Utilizing the lead-type press and native Hawaiian assistants (nā kānaka pa‘i) such as John Papa ‘I‘i as language teachers and translators, the Printing Office produced many books, broadsides, hīmeni (hymns), newspapers, rules, primers, Bible translations, and other items published in the Hawaiian language. The Press was the first to print the Bible in the Hawaiian language.
The most prominent of the early missionary printers included Elisha Loomis, Stephen Shepard, Edmund Rogers, Lemuel Fuller, and Edwin Oscar Hall.
[Photograph: Hale Pa‘i (The Printing Office)]
Kawaiaha‘o Church
Location: Corner of South King and Punchbowl Streets / Phone: 808-522-1333
[Photograph: Kawaiaha‘o Church]
The historic and still functioning Kawaiaha‘o Church is O‘ahu’s oldest church and largest church. The original church on the site was built in 1821. Known as the Christian Meeting House, or Hale Pule, (pule means “church”). The structure was framed and thatched by Hawaiians, and then the missionaries installed imported windows, doors, a pulpit, and a bell. The grass-thatched church was built to hold 300 people, and was dedicated in 1821 (see Chapter 11, Timeline: 1821, Sep. 15).
On January 7, 1822 the first printing in the North Pacific region was done in this 54-foot (16-m) by 22-foot (6.7-m) building. This was the beginning of the Mission Press, which eventually printed millions of pages, many in the Hawaiian language. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1822, Jan. 7.)
In 1837, construction began on a large, new church, following plans drawn by missionary Reverend Hiram Bingham. More than 1,000 people worked on the construction of Kawaiaha‘o Church, using blunt axes to cut coral reef from beneath 10 to 20 feet (3 to 6 m) of water.
Approximately 14,000 coral blocks were cut from the reef for the church. Many of the blocks weighed more than 1 ton (.8 mton). Logs for the church were brought from Ko‘olau Loa in northern O‘ahu to Kāne‘ohe Bay by canoe, and then hauled over the mountain.
Built in the New England style with Gothic influences, the structure was originally known as Stone Church, and was dedicated on July 21, 1842 (then named Kawaiaha‘o Church in 1862). The church’s clock tower was a gift of King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli). The clock was built in Boston and continues to keep accurate time.
Kawaiaha‘o Church was later the site of many important historic events, including an 1843 service for the restoration of the monarchy. This took place after King Kamehameha III had been forced into a formal “provisional cession” of the Hawaiian Islands to Britain on February 10, 1843, by Lord George Paulet of Britain, who had arrived on the frigate Carysfort and demanded the cession under the threat of military force. King Kamehameha III acquiesced and the British flag was raised in Honolulu. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1843, Feb. 10.)
On July 31, 1843, the provisional cession of the Hawaiian Islands to Britain was rescinded by Admiral Richard Thomas (1777-1851) of Britain, who had arrived in the Hawaiian Islands on July 26, 1843 on the H.M.S. flagship Dublin. The Islands were restored to Hawaiians and King Kamehameha III, and the British flag was lowered and the Hawaiian flag was raised.
Later that day, King Kamehameha III gave a speech at a Kawaiaha‘o Church service, and is said to have spoken the words which later became Hawai‘i’s official state motto: “Ua mau ke ea o ka ‘āina o ka pono” (“The life of the land is perpetuated [preserved] in righteousness”). The date of July 31 was later proclaimed Restoration Day.
Kawaiaha‘o Church was also the site of the 1854 coronation of King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani) as well as his wedding to Emma in 1856. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1821, Sep.15; 1843, July 31; 1872, June 11.) In 1885 a bigger bell tower was installed at the church, and electricity was installed in 1895. A complete reconstruction of all but the coral took place in 1925 due to extreme termite damage.
Today Kawaiaha‘o Church still reserves pews for descendants of the Hawaiian royalty that once worshipped there. These velvet-lined pews at the rear of the church are marked with kāhili, the traditional feather standards that are symbols of Hawaiian royalty. Portraits of Hawaiian royalty and important figures associated with the church line the walls along the upper balconies of the church. The rear upper balcony is dominated by the church’s spectacular pipe organ.
To the left of the front door of the church, near the original cornerstone, is a centennial memorial plaque honoring Reverend Hiram Bingham (1789-1869), one of the founders and the architect of Kawaiaha‘o Church. Bingham preached his first sermon in the Hawaiian Islands on April 25, 1820. The cornerstone of the church was laid on June 8, 1839.
The 10:30 a.m. Sunday service at Kawaiaha‘o Church is said in Hawaiian as well as English, and for a small offering visitors are welcomed to a breakfast following the service. Across the street from Kawaiaha‘o Church is the Mission Houses Museum (see above), home to the first missionaries to come to the Hawaiian Islands. Located just inside the main entrance gate to Kawaiaha‘o Church is the Tomb of King Lunalilo (see below). (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1821, Sep. 15; 1837; 1843, July 31; 1872, June 11; and Mission Houses, Chapter 12.)
Tomb of King Lunalilo
Location: On the grounds of Kawaiaha‘o Church—South King and Punchbowl Streets.
[Photograph: Tomb of King Lunalilo]
The remains of King Lunalilo (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1835, Jan. 31) are housed in a substantial memorial, known as the Tomb of King Lunalilo, which is just inside the main entrance gate to Kawaiaha‘o Church. Born in 1835, King Lunalilo succeeded King Kamehameha V (Lot Kapuāiwa Kamehameha) on January 8, 1873, and then reigned until he died on February 3, 1874. Many of early missionaries in the Hawaiian Islands are buried in a cemetery behind Kawaiaha‘o Church.
Honolulu Hale—City Hall
Location: South King and Punchbowl Streets.
[Photograph: Honolulu Hale]
Construction on Honolulu Hale began in 1927, and the building opened in 1929. Honolulu Hale is comprised of pillars and arches, decorative balconies, ceiling frescoes, and a tiled roof. The building was modeled after Florence, Italy’sBargello Palace, which was built in the 13th century.
Honolulu Hale was designed by architects Charles William Dickey (a famous architect of the time) along with Hart Wood and others. Inside the front door is a bell from the World War II ship U.S.S. Honolulu, with a commemorative plaque that states, “Launched August 26, 1937. Commissioned June 15, 1938.”
The spacious lobby of Honolulu Hale is also the site of art exhibits and other events. The center of the building is an open-air courtyard where musical performances and other events are held. A grand double stairway at the rear of the courtyard leads a wraparound mezzanine. The structure was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1978.
In front of Honolulu Hale is a small memorial burning an eternal flame in honor of the victims of the attack on the Twin Towers of the World Trade Center on September 11, 2001. The plaque is inscribed with the following words:
“Let this eternal flame unite our country in memory of those who lost their lives on September 11, 2001 and honor the brave men and women who put themselves in Harm’s Way to save others. The love and spirit of our grateful nation and the hearts and prayers of our people will always be with them. Dedicated on November 11, 2001 by the people of the City and County of Honolulu.”
Hawai‘i State Library
Location: 478 South King Street / Phone: 808-586-3500 / Reference Services Phone: 586-3621; 1-800-390-3611.
[Photograph: Hawai‘i State Library]
The central branch of Hawai‘i’s statewide library system (just to the west of Honolulu Hale) is housed in a restored historic building designed by architect Henry D. Whitfield, brother-in-law of philanthropist and renowned American industrialist Andrew Carnegie, whose bust greets visitors entering the library. The building’s style is Classical Revival. The main building is four stories and rectangular in shape, with a six-story tower at the rear.
The original “Reading Room” opened in 1879, and only men were allowed to check out books from the original collection of 5,000 volumes. This was sponsored by the Hawai‘i Workingmen’s Library Association, who were trying to keep rowdy seamen out of trouble.
After the Hawaiian Islands were annexed to the United States, industrialist Andrew Carnegie donated $100,000 toward the construction of a library, which began in 1911 o the corner of King and Punchbowl Streets on the former site of Pohukaina School, which was relocated to Kaka‘ako.
Particularly notable is the library’s entrance, consisting of 20-foot (20.1 m) high “Tuscan” columns atop a six-step riser, and 18-foot (5.5 m) arches.
Two wings were designed by Charles William Dickey to expand the library, and these additions were completed in 1930, creating the open-air center courtyard.
Hawai‘i’s State Library traces its roots back to the days of the monarchy, beginning with the Honolulu Library and Reading Room Association, formed in 1879. Initial collections and financial contributions came from Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop (Princess Pauahi), Queen Emma, Queen Kapi‘olani, and King Kalākaua. The Association donated 20,000 books and other resources to form the Library of Hawai‘i in 1909, which also benefited from grants provided by Hawai‘i’s Legislature and from Andrew Carnegie (who donated $100,000).
Today the Hawai‘i State Library is a wonderful resource for the community and beyond. The first floor includes the Young Adults Section, containing materials suitable for teenagers, and an exemplary children’s section that fills two large rooms. It includes the Mural Room, which is wonderfully decorated with Juliette May Fraser artwork depicting ancient Hawaiian legends.
Also on the first floor is the Information Desk, and the Hawai‘i & Pacific section, with a wide variety of books about the Hawaiian Islands, Australia, New Zealand, and the South Pacific. A lovely palm-edged center courtyard with three large native fan palms (loulu) in the middle provides a great place to relax and read a book.
The second floor of the library is an official Federal Depository Library, containing various federal documents. The second floor also serves as the Hawaiian Islands’ only Patent and Trademark Depository Library, with CD-ROMs that may be used to conduct patent and trademark searches. A Business, Science, & Technology section is also found on the Library’s second floor, along with the Social Science & Philosophy section, the Language, Literature & History section, the Art, Music & Recreation section, and an Audiovisual section.
The basement of the Hawai‘i State Library houses a Serials section with many different newspapers and magazines, as well as microfilm and computerized materials (including indexes), and periodicals in European and Asian languages.
Hawai‘i State Archives—Kekāuluohi Building
Location: ‘Iolani Palace Grounds, behind the Territorial Archives Building (Old Archives Building—Kana‘ina Building) / Phone: 808-586-0329.
[Photograph: Hawai‘i State Archives—Kekāuluohi Building]
Next door to the Hawai‘i State Library, on the ‘Iolani Palace grounds, is the Hawai‘i State Archives. The building preserves a historic collection of vintage photos (some on display) along with a multitude of government documents.
The new Hawai‘i State Archives was constructed in 1953 on the grounds of ‘Iolani Palace behind the Old ArchivesBuilding (Kana‘ina Building), which was built in 1906 (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1906, Aug. 23.) The Hawai‘i State Archives allows public access to important historical documents of Hawai‘i’s past, including historical photographs and documents, private papers, records, manuscripts, maps, books, and items from various collections, including the Captain Cook Memorial Collection.
The Archives also contains approximately 100,000 photographs, 1,800 maps, and 9,000 books, many of which contain past government publications. Many papers associated with the Hawaiian Kingdom (before 1893), the Republic of Hawai‘i (1893-1900), the Territorial Government (1900-1959), and the government of the State of Hawai‘i (1959-present) are found in the Archives.
The records span all aspects of the government, including the Executive Branch, Legislature, and Judiciary. The Governors’ Records span from 1900 to the present and include press releases, speeches, and personal papers. Catalogs and indexes in the Reference Room include the Computerized Library Catalog, which makes it easy to locate information and photos.
In 1959, when officials decide that State of Hawai‘i buildings should have Hawaiian names, the new Hawai‘i State Archives building was renamed Kekāuluohi Building after King Lunalilo’s mother, Kekāuluohi (Miriam ‘Auhea, 1794-1845), who was the mother of King Lunalilo and also kuhina nui (premier) of the Hawaiian Kingdom from 1839 to 1845 during the reign of King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli). (See Hawai‘i State Archives—Kekāuluohi Building in O‘ahusection, Chapter 2.)
Territorial Archives Building (Old Archives Building)—Kana‘ina Building
Location: ‘Iolani Palace Grounds, in front of Hawai‘i State Archives (Kekāuluohi Building).
[Photograph: Old Archives Building]
The Territorial Archives Building (Old Archives Building) opened on August 23, 1906. (Note: Hawai‘i was a Territory from 1900 to 1959.) The building was designed by architect Oliver Green Traphagen in the Renaissance Revival style and constructed at 364 King Street on the grounds of ‘Iolani Palace in downtown Honolulu, becoming the United States’ first building constructed for the sole purpose of preserving public archive materials.
The Archives contents (now in the newer Hawai‘i State Archives) includes historical photographs and documents, private papers, records, manuscripts, photographs, maps, books, and items from various collections, including the Captain Cook Memorial Collection, papers associated with the Hawaiian Kingdom (before 1893), the Republic of Hawai‘i (1893-1900), the Territorial Government (1900-1959), and the government of the State of Hawai‘i (1959-present).
Virtually fireproof, the Old Archives Building is primarily stucco-covered brick, and divided into two main sections with a public reading room and offices on one side and a large vault area on the other side. Additions to the building were constructed in 1929, including another vault area, a basement in the back, and a bay added to the front left side of the building. In 1949, a small addition was made to the rear of the right side wing of the building.
In 1959, when officials decide that State of Hawai‘i buildings should have Hawaiian names.
the Old Archives Building was renamed Kana‘ina Building after Charles Kana‘ina (c.1801-1877), the husband of Kekāuluohi (Miriam ‘Auhea, 1794-1845), and they were the parents of King Lunalilo.
In 1953, the new Hawai‘i State Archives Building (see 1953) was completed, and the old Archives Building housed the State Attorney General’s office, and then later served other functions including housing the State of Hawai‘i Identification Office and the Office of Children and Youth.
In 1987, the Friends of ‘Iolani Palace restored the original interior colors and design of the Old Archives Building, which still retains its domed, stained-glass skylight in the foyer as well as the original terrazzo floor. Friends of ‘IolaniPalace now uses the historical building for its education center and administrative offices. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1906, Aug. 23.)
Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum
The State Museum of Natural & Cultural History
Location: 1525 Bernice Street, Honolulu.
Phone—Visitor Services: 808-848-4160, 847-3511
Website: www.bishop.hawaii.org; bishopmuseum.org
Open Daily, 9 a.m.—5 p.m.
[Photograph: Bishop Museum]
History and Purpose
Charles Reed Bishop founded the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum in 1889 to honor his wife, Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop, a Hawaiian princess and great-granddaughter of King Kamehameha I.
Princess Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop, known as Princess Pauahi, died in 1884, leaving an extensive collection of royal family heirlooms and historic artifacts of the Kamehameha era. Bishop Museum was founded to preserve and showcase the possessions of Princess Pauahi, as well as items from the estate of the late Queen Emma (1836-1885) and from the estate of the late Princess Ruth Ke‘elikōlani (1826-1883).
An expressed goal of Charles Reed Bishop in founding the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum was to provide enjoyment and education for the Hawaiian people. The Hawaiian name of Bishop Museum, Hale-hō‘ike‘ike-o-Kamehameha, means “Exhibition house of Kamehameha.”
The artifacts and other items that make up the substantial collection of Bishop Museum have come from many sources. A significant early contribution came from Hawai‘i’s National Museum, which was originally housed on the second floor of Ali‘iōlani Hale, a judiciary building in downtown Honolulu where Hawai‘i’s Supreme Court meets (seeAli‘iōlani Hale above).
The National Museum had its beginning in 1854 when Hawai‘i’s Legislature appropriated $1000 to procure Hawaiian artifacts. The growth of a museum collection was further encouraged by the desire of King Kamehameha V (Lot Kapuāiwa Kamehameha) that the Hawaiian Islands should participate in the 1867 Exposition Universalle in Paris, France. King Kamehameha V had been impressed by collections he had seen in France in 1850, and he helped secure the collection of many items that were sent to Paris along with artifacts belonging to Queen Emma.
In 1872, the Legislature authorized the Board of Education, and its Chairman of the Board, Charles Reed Bishop, to establish the “National Museum of Archaeology, Literature, Botany, Geology and Natural History of the Hawaiian Islands.” Charles Reed Bishop was the museum’s first supervisor. The National Museum was established in Ali‘iōlani Hale on September 9, 1874, and opened on November 8, 1875. The Museum’s collection included the items mentioned above as well as many artifacts donated by Hawaiian royalty. Other artifacts were purchased from the estate of Kana‘ina (the father of King Lunalilo), and from the collection of Samuel and Mercy Whitney. The Whitneys were missionaries that had acquired many items during their 50 years in the Hawaiian Islands. In addition, many botanical and geological specimens were gathered by scientists.
In 1890, the National Museum’s collection was loaned to Charles Reed Bishop (who had founded Bishop Museum in 1889) with the stipulation that the collection must be returned if requested by the King’s Cabinet. However, in 1893 the Hawaiian monarchy was overthrown, and when the Hawaiian Islands was annexed to the United States in 1898, the ownership of the National Museum collection was formally transferred to the Bishop Museum.
Bishop Museum was built on the site of the Kamehameha School for Boys, which was established in 1887 under the terms of Princess Pauahi’s will to provide educational resources for children in the Hawaiian Islands. The first buildings of Bishop Museum were Polynesian Hall and Hawaiian Hall. The cut and dressed volcanic stones used for the construction were quarried from the site, and the first Bishop Museum buildings were some of the earliest structures to be built of such materials.
The Kamehameha School for Boys moved to a new location in the 1960s, and this new campus is visible by looking upslope from the Museum. When the school moved, the Bishop Museum was able to construct more buildings, and Bishop Hall (which was part of the original school), became part of the museum (though it’s not currently open to the public).
Lawe i ka ma‘alea a kū‘ono‘ono.
Take wisdom and make it deep.
(Pukui: 1957-211)
Bishop Museum Today—An Overview
Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum is now the world’s most prominent museum of Polynesian culture and anthropology. As a non-profit organization, the Bishop Museum is associated with a whole array of scientific and cultural endeavors that share the common goal of investigating, preserving and sharing the rich historical legacy and cultural heritage of Hawaiians and other Pacific cultures.
Bishop Museum displays its monumental collection in exhibits at various locations (see below). The preservation of fragile ancient Hawaiian artifacts is a top priority, and some items are only displayed occasionally.
Research and education efforts sponsored by Bishop Museum continue to produce a variety of programs at many sites throughout the Hawaiian Islands. Staff associated with the Museum also publish important research about the cultural history and natural resources of the Hawaiian Islands, including research that helps in the ongoing efforts to preserve endangered Hawaiian species and the cultural heritage of the native Hawaiian people.
Bishop Museum’s Hawaiian and Pacific Studies Department researches and preserves historical materials and information about the Hawaiian Islands and other Pacific cultures, while the Pacific Biological Survey studies the species of the Pacific Basin. The Pacific Center for Molecular Biodiversity uses DNA analysis techniques to investigate plant origins, speciation, and dating of cultural artifacts, and also conducts scientific research relating to modern agricultural issues.
Other Pacific region initiatives developed at the Bishop Museum include: the Pacific Earth Science Center, which is dedicated to research and education related to Pacific region Earth Sciences such as marine geology and volcanology; and the Center for Hawaiian and Pacific Cultural Studies, which is concerned with the heritage of cultures of the Pacific region.
The Museum Library and Archives contains an extensive collection of historical materials (more than one million items), while the Bishop Museum Press continues to produce quality publications relating to the Hawaiian Islands and the Pacific region. Other facilities sponsored by Bishop Museum include the Hawai‘i Maritime Center in Honolulu; the Amy B. H. Greenwell Ethnobotanical Garden on the island of Hawai‘i; and the Bishop Museum at Kālia, locatedin Waikīkī’s Hilton Hawaiian Village Hotel, with exhibits of ancient artifacts and interactive educational programs (see below).
Overall, the sheer quantity of objects possessed by Bishop Museum is astounding, exceeding 24.7 million items. This world-renown collection is comprised of about 2.4 million cultural artifacts and about 21 million specimens of plants, animals and insects, including 13 million insects, more than 6 million zoology specimens, and more than 400,000 botany specimens.
Visiting the Bishop Museum
The main buildings of the Bishop Museum are Hawaiian Hall and Polynesian Hall, which are both entered through the Vestibule Gallery. Straight ahead from the entrance are stairs leading to the upper floors of Polynesian Hall, where a plaque above the door states, “To the Memory of Bernice Pauahi Bishop, Founder of Kamehameha Schools. A bright light among her people, her usefulness survives her earthly life.”
Vestibule Gallery
Upon entering the Vestibule Gallery, directly to the left is the Kāhili Room (see below). Directly to the right is Prince Kūhiō’s Royal Racing Canoe, beyond which is the entrance to Hawaiian Hall.
Prince Kūhiō commissioned Henry Weeks Jr., a Kona cabinetmaker, to build the 42-foot (12.8-m) racing canoe in 1902. Known as the ‘Ā, the six-man racing canoe was praised for its design as well as the crews that placed it first in many competitions from 1906 to 1910. The Prince’s widow, Princess Elizabeth Kalaniana‘ole, donated the canoe to the Bishop Museum in 1923. Fully restored in 1952, the canoe was instrumental in the founding of O‘ahu’s Lanikai Canoe Club.
Kāhili Room
The Kāhili Room contains a rich display of royal standards, or kāhili, consisting of feather clusters attached to long poles. In ancient Hawai‘i, kāhili were symbols of chiefly rank, and continued to be used throughout the period of the Hawaiian monarchy.
Lele kāhili, holo ka uha‘i, uhi kapa.
Kāhili sway, the door covering is closed, the tapa is drawn up.
The chief sleeps.
(Pukui: 1977-213)
Bishop Museum has the world’s largest collection of kāhili, including at least 75 kāhili kū (tall kāhili) as well as 175 kāhili pa‘alima (hand-held, or waving kāhili). Many of these historic artifacts are on display in the Kāhili Room. Also on display in the Kāhili Room are numerous portraits of Hawaiian monarchs.
Hawaiian Hall
[Photograph: Interior of Hawaiian Hall]Hawaiian Hall is a large rectangular room with an interior space that is open to the three stories high, with many exhibits on display on the first floor as well as on the second and third story balconies on all four sides of the room.
The first floor of Hawaiian Hall contains a full-size hale pili, which is a traditional Hawaiian house thatched with pili grass (Heteropogon contortus, twisted beardgrass). There is also a model of a heiau (traditional Hawaiian sacred place of worship). A stage in the center of the room is where educational Hawaiian shows are performed.
Various exhibits around the perimeter of the first floor include Hawaiian featherwork, calabashes, ancient weapons and an exhibit on traditional hygiene (including a kilo pōhaku, or stone mirror) among other displays.
The second floor of Hawaiian Hall contain exhibits of kapa (tapa) barkcloth, displays on adze production, and numerous items of Hawaiian featherwork, including mahiole (feather crested helmets), ‘ahu ‘ula (feather capes and cloaks), feather lei, and other adornments. Also on display are quilts from the post-contact period.
An exhibit on whaling includes many historic maritime items as well as lei niho palaoa, the prized necklaces made from the teeth of the palaoa (Physeter macrocephalus, sperm whale). Also on the second floor is a portrait of Sanford B. Dole with the caption, “The Grand Old Man of Hawai‘i.” Recognizable by his bushy gray beard, Sanford B. Dole was the first President of the Provisional Government after the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy, then President of the Republic of Hawai‘i from 1895 to 1898, and then the first governor of the Territory of Hawai‘i from 1898 to 1903.
The third floor of Hawaiian Hall presents traditional Hawaiian musical instruments as well as historic artifacts relating to the mixed Hawaiian heritage of immigrants from China, Okinawa, Korea, Japan, the Philippines, Puerto Rico, Portugal, Spain, and Germany.
Also found on the third floor is information about the skeleton of the sperm whale that hangs from the ceiling of Hawaiian Hall. This sperm whale skeleton measures 55 feet, 7 inches long (17 m), and weighs more than 4,300 pounds (1,950 kg). When it was alive, the whale weighed an estimated 50 tons (45 mtons).
The sperm whale skeleton exhibit, when it was completed in 1902, may have been the world’s first full-size whale exhibit. The enormous skeleton of the whale is fully visible from one side, while the other side shows the full body of the whale that has been recreated using papier mâché.
Polynesian Hall
[Photograph: Polynesian Hall]
The second and third floors of Polynesian Hall are dedicated to “Peoples of the Pacific,” with exhibits, artifacts, and information about the many different cultures of Polynesia, Micronesia and Melanesia. Photographs, masks, clothing items, and hundreds of other ancient artifacts provide a glimpse into the rich history and culture of such regions as Fiji, Tonga, Samoa, New Zealand, the Solomon Islands, the Marshall Islands, and Papua New Guinea.
Hall of Hawaiian Natural History
[Photograph: Hall of Hawaiian Natural History]
On the second floor between Polynesian Hall and Hawaiian Hall is the Hall of Hawaiian Natural History, with exhibits explaining the volcanic origins of the Hawaiian Islands. Informative displays explain the geology of volcanoes, including the processes that built the Islands. There are also exhibits and information about the insects, birds, and plants, as well as the evolutionary processes that created the diverse flora and fauna found throughout the Hawaiian Islands.
E kuhikuhi pono i na au iki a me na au nui o ka ‘ike.
Instruct well in the little and the large currents of knowledge.
In teaching, do it well; the small details are as important as the large ones.
(Pukui: 325-40)
Other Museum Areas
The Bishop Museum Planetarium features multi-media shows exploring topics related to astronomy, celestial navigation, and the telescopes atop Mauna Kea. Information on the current night sky may be seen atwww.bishopmuseum.org/bishop/planet.sky.html, or call the Planetarium Recording at 808-848-4136. The Hall of Discovery provides hands-on learning opportunities for children as well as Hawaiian quilting displays and lessons.
The Cooke Rotunda-Explorers Center holds items relating to the ocean voyages of the Polynesians who discovered the Hawaiian Islands. Also featured are interactive displays on science and space. Atherton Hālau and Canoe Hale was built to provide an area for the construction of the Hawai‘iloa, a traditional Polynesian Voyaging Canoe that is now moored in Honolulu Harbor when it isn’t sailing (see Hōkūle‘a and Hawai‘iloa Voyaging Canoes, Chapter 3). The Hālau is often used for hula performances, and for the making of Hawaiian crafts, quilts, and lei.
Castle Hall opened in 1984, and displays special exhibits, often on topics not related to the Hawaiian Islands and Polynesia. Past exhibits have included; animated robots; a 45-foot (13.7-m) long, life-sized cast of the most completeTyrannosaurus rex fossil ever discovered; science exhibits developed in partnership with the National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA); and a genetics and DNA exhibit sponsored by the Pacific Science Center (Oct. 2002—Jan. 2003).
From February to April in 2004, an exhibit about the Titanic disaster will be featured. Developed by the Maryland Science Center in Baltimore, the traveling exhibit includes artifacts from the ship as well as opportunities for interactive science and technology experiences related to the Titanic.
Hawaiian Courtyard
Located between Hawaiian Hall and Pākī Hall is the Hawaiian Courtyard. Developed in 1954, the Courtyard includes many well-labeled native and Polynesian-introduced plants intermingled with historic stone artifacts, such as a shaped image of a shark god that was originally in front of Mo‘okini Heiau at ‘Umiwai on the island of Hawai‘i. Another hidden treasure in the Hawaiian Courtyard is a large papa kōnane, a stone with indentations in it that were used to play the checker-like, traditional Hawaiian game called kōnane.
Sports Hall of Fame
Bishop Museum’s Sports Hall of Fame is in the center hallway of Pākī Hall, which also houses the Museum Library and Archives (see below). Exhibits lining the hallway of the Sports Hall of Fame highlight the careers and lives of many past sports heroes of the Hawaiian Islands, including the legendary Hawaiian swimmer and waterman Duke Kahanamoku, who won six Olympic medals.
Duke Kahanamoku was known as Hawai‘i’s “Ambassador of Aloha.” (See Duke Kahanamoku, Chapter 3.) Another famous surfer in the Sports Hall of Fame is Rell Kapoiloka‘ehukai Sunn (1950-1998), an outstanding waterwoman, pioneer woman surfer, hula dancer, canoe racer, and mentor for many others. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1998.)
Rell Kapoiloka‘ehukai Sunn was the first female lifeguard in the Hawaiian Islands, and like Duke Kahanamoku, she was also a community leader, and a well-respected and loved Hawaiian “ambassador of aloha.”
The Sports Hall of Fame also displays many photographs, medals, and memorabilia of other sports heroes of Hawai‘i’s past, including football players, boxers, golfers and other star athletes. Famous broadcasters and sports promoters of Hawai‘i’s past are also featured.
Bishop Museum Library and Archives
Location: Pākī Hall, directly behind Hawaiian Hall.
Phone: Library: 808-848-4148 / Archives: 808-848-4182
The Bishop Museum Library and Archives contain more than 115,000 historical documents and publications along with an extensive collection of manuscripts (personal papers and other unpublished materials), audio recordings (including oral histories), photographs, artistic works, films, movie images, maps, and other important historical items relating to the Hawaiian Islands and the Pacific. In all, the collection totals more than one million items.
Ka waihona o ka na‘auao.
The repository of learning.
Said in admiration of a learned person.
(Pukui: 1650-178)
The Museum Library and Archives maintains various indexes available for online public access. These include the Mele (Chant & Song) Index and the Genealogy Collection.
The extensive photograph collection of Bishop Museum contains more than one million images, and these too may be accessed by the public for research purposes. This may be done in the Ray Jerome Baker Room, which is named after a generous benefactor.
Hale Kā‘eo & Hawaiian Science Garden
[Photograph: Hale Kā‘eo & Hawaiian Science Garden]
Bishop Museum’s Hale Kā‘eo & Science Garden is designed to simulate the traditional Hawaiian ahupua‘a, a wedge-shaped region of land formed naturally by mountain ridges and river valleys, and extending from the mountaintop to the seashore. Native and Polynesian-introduced plants that had traditional and medicinal uses in ancient Hawai‘i are cultivated in the Science Garden. Markers display the Hawaiian name of each plant along with its scientific and common names.
Plants growing in the Science Garden include the native sedge ‘ahu‘awa (Cyperus javanicus), which was used to strain many medicinal and ceremonial preparations, including a drink made from the Polynesian-introduced ‘awa (Piper methysticum, kava). Also growing in the Garden is the rare, endemic water fern, ‘ihi‘ihi (Marsilea villosa), which looks somewhat like a four-leaf clover, and is unique among ferns in that it evolved to survive in areas where conditions alternate between floods and droughts.
A stand of pili grass (Heteropogon contortus, twisted beardgrass) allows the visitor to see the grass that was traditionally used to thatch houses in ancient Hawai‘i. The indigenous ‘uhaloa (Waltheria indica) is the same species that was used to strain many medicinal preparations in ancient Hawai‘i. Also growing in the Science Garden is makaloa(Cyperus laevigatus), which Hawaiians used to make the finest sleeping mats in all of ancient Polynesia. A small, irrigated lo‘i kalo (taro patch) provides a close-up look at the heart-shaped leaves of the Polynesian-introduced kalo (Colocasia esculenta, taro). The underground tubers of taro are used to make poi, a staple food of ancient Hawai‘i.
Various other native and Polynesian-introduced plants are found in the Hale Kā‘eo & Science Garden, including ma‘o (Gossypium sandvicense, Hawaiian cotton); the indigenous fern kupukupu (Nephrolepis cordifolia); and the endemic kulu‘ī (Nototrichium sandwicense). Bishop Museum staff provide educational talks about the traditional Hawaiian uses of the plants. (See Native and Polynesian-Introduced Plants sections, Chapters 8 and 9, for more information about the plants mentioned above.)
Bishop Museum Press
The Bishop Museum Press was founded in 1892, and today maintains its uninterrupted record of producing quality publications. Known as Hawai‘i’s oldest continuous publisher, Bishop Museum Press prints a wide array of books relating to the cultural and natural history of the Hawaiian Islands and other Pacific cultures.
Scholars associated with the Bishop Museum include prominent geologists, biologists, anthropologists and others who have published hundreds of academic studies relating to the Hawaiian Islands and the Pacific region.
Other Bishop Museum Sites
Also affiliated with Bishop Museum is the Hawai‘i Maritime Center in Honolulu, and docked there, the shipFalls of Clyde as well as the Hawai‘iloa and Hōkūle‘a Voyaging Canoes (when they are not away on voyages or undergoing repairs). Other Bishop Museum sites include the Bishop Museum at Kālia in Waikīkī’s Hilton Hawaiian Village Hotel and the Amy B. H. Greenwell Ethnobotanical Garden on the island of Hawai‘i. These locations are described below.
Hawai‘i Maritime Center
Location: Pier 7, Honolulu Harbor / Phone: 808-535-6373 / Open 8:30-8 daily
The Hawai‘i Maritime Center is located at Pier 7 in Honolulu Harbor in the King Kalākaua Boathouse Museum. The Hawai‘i Maritime Center contains a wealth of information and exhibits on everything from canoe racing and surfing to the whaling era, including a complete skeleton of a koholā (Megaptera novaeangliae, humpback whale). Information is presented on many significant events associated with the maritime history of the Hawaiian Islands.
Docked next to the Boathouse is the 266-foot (81-m) Falls of Clyde, as well as the Hokule‘a Voyaging Canoe andHawai‘iloa Voyaging Canoe, when the sailing vessels are not away on journeys. Educational talks include information about the voyaging canoes and the renaissance of Hawaiian long-distance ocean voyaging (see below).
King Kalākaua Boathouse Museum
[Photograph: Hawai‘i Maritime Center (King Kalākaua Boathouse Museum) also showing Falls of Clyde and voyaging canoe(s).]The King Kalākaua Boathouse Museum is named after the old Kalākaua Boathouse, which stood about two blocks away from the present site one century ago. The first floor of the Museum has exhibits on surfing, windsurfing, and Hawaiian voyaging canoes. Also on display are ancient Hawaiian artifacts, the Makahū‘ena Point Light from Kaua‘i, and an exhibit entitled “Na La‘au Lapa‘au O Ke Kai—Medicines From the Sea.” Books for sale include many titles related to the maritime history of the Hawaiian Islands.
Second floor exhibits include a display on seaplanes, the Transpacific Yacht Race, undersea communication, disasters at sea, Pearl Harbor, Matson Liners, the Whaling era, the old Honolulu Fort, early Hawaiian naval history, Captain Cook, and Honolulu Harbor. There is also an exhibit of scrimshawed panbone, the jawbone of the palaoa(Physeter macrocephalus, sperm whale), and an informational display about the humpback whale skeleton that is suspended from the atrium of the Boathouse.
The skeleton comes from a humpback whale that was discovered dead in a cave in 1986, on Kaho‘olawe’s northwest shore. The whale was subsequently recovered by volunteers, and the whale’s skeleton was reassembled in 1991. A contest among schoolchildren resulted in the name “Leiiwi” (lei of cherished bones) being chosen for the whale. The whale skeleton measures about 38 feet (11.6 m) with a skull that measures nearly 12 feet (3.7 m).
Falls of Clyde
The Falls of Clyde is the world’s last remaining full-rigged, four-masted ship. Constructed in 1878 by Russell & Company of Port Glasgow, Scotland, the wrought iron Falls of Clyde has a length of 266 feet (81 m) on its deck, and a breadth of 40 feet (12 m). The ship also has a mast height of 138 feet (42 m), and a net tonnage of 1,740 tons (1,579 mtons). Named after the waterfalls on the river Clyde, the Falls of Clyde was the first of nine vessels of the Falls Line built by Russell & Company.
Matson Navigation purchased the Falls of Clyde for $25,000 in 1899 after the ship had already completed 20 years of service in ports around the world. A deck house, chart house, and after quarters for paying customers were added to the ship, and then from 1899 to 1907 the Falls of Clyde was used to transport sugar and people between the ports of San Francisco and Hilo on Hawai‘i Island, a trip that took about 17 days. The Falls of Clyde was the first four-masted ship to fly the Hawaiian flag.
In 1907 the Falls of Clyde was sold to the Associated Oil Company, and used to carry petroleum from Gaviota, California to Honolulu. On the return trip the ship carried loads of molasses, a sugarcane derivative, which was used for cattle feed. The Falls of Clyde is the world’s only extant sail-driven oil tanker. Ten tanks built into the ship’s hull carried three quarters of a million gallons.
In 1922 the ship’s masts were removed and she was stripped down and used as a barge. Towed to Ketchikan, Alaska, the ship was ingloriously used by the General Petroleum Company as a fuel depot to supply the local fishing fleet. More than thirty years later the Falls of Clyde was purchased by a private owner and towed to Seattle, Washington.
In 1963, just days away from being sunk to provide a breakwater for a British Columbia logging operation, theFalls of Clyde was rescued with funds raised by a Hawaiian group seeking to save the ship from a watery grave. The Bishop Museum then assisted in returning the ship to the Hawaiian Islands and restoring it. Registered as a National Historic Landmark in 1973, the Falls of Clyde was the largest ship ever employed by the Hawaiian Islands’ burgeoning sugar industry.
Hōkūle‘a and Hawai‘iloa Voyaging Canoes
[Photographs: Hōkūle‘a and Hawai‘iloa Voyaging Canoes]
Docked next to the Hawai‘i Maritime Museum at various times (when not away on voyages or being repaired) are the Hōkūle‘a and Hawai‘iloa Voyaging Canoes. Staff at the Museum provide educational talks about the voyaging canoes, sometimes allowing the public onboard the vessels. Some museum staff members were also actual members of the crews that completed open ocean voyages on the sailing vessels.
The Hōkūle‘a Voyaging Canoe has two 62-foot (18.9-meter) long hulls (kuamo‘o), and was built in the 1970s to demonstrate that migrating Polynesians were able to sail east against the prevailing winds to reach the Hawaiian Islands. The Hōkūle‘a was launched on March 8, 1975, and completed its first voyage, to Tahiti, in 1976. When Nainoa Thompson led the crew that sailed the Hōkūle‘a to Tahiti and back in 1980, he became the first Hawaiian to navigate a voyaging canoe in more than 600 years. Many more Hōkūle‘a voyages have now been completed, totaling well over 100,000 miles (161,000 km).
The Hōkūle‘a recently underwent a complete restoration, which finished in January of 2003 after nearly a year of work. The restoration included replacing the approximately 5 miles (8 km) of ropes and cordage holding the canoe together.
The Hawai‘iloa voyaging canoe is 57 feet (17.4 m) long, and is the first of the voyaging canoes to be built almost entirely out of traditional materials, unlike the Hōkūle‘a voyaging canoe, which was built to be as performance accurate as ancient Hawaiian voyaging canoes, but was built with modern materials.
The Hawai‘iloa voyaging canoe was launched in 1993, then modified and launched again in 1994, making its first voyage in 1995. With no navigational instruments, the crew sailed the boat more than 6,000 miles (9,660 km), from the Hawaiian Islands to Tahiti and the Marquesas, and then back to the Hawaiian Islands.
The crews of the Hōkūle‘a and Hawai‘iloa recovered the art of non-instrument wayfinding and celestial navigation that was used by ancient Polynesian voyagers. The voyagers used many natural clues as aids to navigation, including the positions and movements of the sun, moon, stars and constellations, as well as prevailing winds and seas.
Hōkūle‘a, the star that Westerners call Arcturus, was important to ancient navigators sailing to the Hawaiian Islands from the Marquesas or Tahiti because it helped them determine how far north to sail. They knew that at the latitude of the island of Hawai‘i the star Hōkūle‘a would be directly overhead (a zenith star). At the high point of its nightly arc across the sky, Hōkūle‘a points the way to the Hawaiian Islands. Hōkū means “Star,” and le‘a means “happiness, or joy.”
Many other navigational clues were used by the ancient Polynesian voyagers, and by the crews that have now sailed the Hōkūle‘a and Hawai‘iloa Voyaging Canoes on many long journeys. (See First Polynesians—First Hawaiians,Chapter 3; and Rediscovering the Past: The Hōkūle‘a and Hawai‘iloa Voyaging Canoes, Chapter 3.)
Bishop Museum at Kālia (in Waikīkī)
Location: Kālia Tower—Hilton Hawaiian Village Hotel.
This 8,560-square-foot (795-sq.m) facility contains hundreds of artifacts from the Bishop Museum collection as well as interactive educational activities. On display is kapa (tapa) barkcloth, surfboards, wooden bowls, stone tools, Hawaiian featherwork items, and personal effects of monarchs of the Hawaiian Islands.
Gardens surrounding the Bishop Museum at Kālia display native trees and plants, with markers that have the plants’ Hawaiian and scientific names. Cultural interpreters assist visitors in learning about traditional uses of native plants and Hawaiian crafts. They also share the ancient legends and stories of Polynesian migrations in ancient voyaging canoes and how celestial navigation was used to reach the Hawaiian Islands.
The Kālia area was the childhood home famous Hawaiian waterman and Olympic gold medallist Duke Kahanamoku. An exhibit at the Museum provides information about the famous swimmer, and one of Duke’s surfboards is on display.
The Bishop Museum at Kālia also includes a wonderful display of traditional native Hawaiian musical instruments including a nī‘au kani (mouth harp), hōkiokio (gourd whistle), kūpe‘e niho ‘īlio (dog-tooth anklets), ‘ulī‘ūlī (gourd rattle with seeds), ‘ohe hano ihu (bamboo nose flute), pū‘ili (bamboo rattles), lā‘au ho‘okani pahu (drumming sticks), pū‘ili (bamboo rattle), and other instruments.
The Bishop Museum at Kālia also includes post-contact Hawaiian displays, including beautiful quilts, furniture, old postcards, and a photo display of historic Waikīkī. Also offered through the Bishop Museum at Kālia are Waikīkī walking tours led by a Trail Historian. (See www.waikikihistorictrail.com for schedule.)
[Bishop Museum at Kālia, 808—949-4321. open 9-9 daily, Kālia Tower at Hilton Hawaiian Village, Waikīkī.]
Amy B. H. Greenwell Ethnobotanical Garden (Hawai‘i Island)
Location: 82-6188 Māmalahoa Highway (Hwy. 19), near Captain Cook.
Phone: 808-323-3318, www.bishopmuseum.org/greenwell, open M-F, 8:30-5.
[Photograph: Amy B. H. Greenwell Ethnobotanical Garden]
This 15-acre (6-ha) ethnobotanical garden on the island of Hawai‘i includes examples of coastal habitat as well as lowland dry forest and upland forest habitats as Hawaiians used them in ancient times. The Garden includes an archaeological remnant of an ancient Kona Field System, covering about 5 acres (2 ha).
The Garden’s collection of about 250 different native and Polynesian-introduced plants includes many food and fiber crops such as kalo (Colocasia esculenta, taro), mai‘a (Musa species, banana), ‘ulu (Artocarpus altilis, breadfruit), ‘uala(Ipomoea batatas, sweet potatoes), uhi (Dioscorea alata, yam), kō (Saccharum officinarum, sugarcane), ‘awa (Piper methysticum, kava), ‘ōhi‘a ‘ai (Eugenia malaccense, mountain apple) and wauke (Broussonetia papyrifera, paper mulberry). (See Native andPolynesian-Introduced Plants sections, Chapters 8 and 9, for more information about the plants mentioned above.)
Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop—Princess Pauahi (1831-1884)
[Photograph: Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop]
Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop (Princess Pauahi) was born in Honolulu on December 19, 1831 to her father Abner Pākī (1808-1855) and her mother Konia [Laura Konia] (1808-1857). Konia’s mother was Luahine, and her father was Pauli Ka‘ōleiokū, the son of King Kamehameha I (his first) by Kānekapōlei, making Princess Pauahi a great-grandaughter of King Kamehameha I and also his last direct descendant.
Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop’s namesake was Kalani Pauahi, a granddaughter of King Kamehameha I. Kalani Pauahi was a daughter of Pauli Ka‘oleiokū (Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop’s grandfather) and Keōuawahine. With Mataio Kekūanaō‘a, Kalani Pauahi was also the mother of Princess Ruth Ke‘elikōlani, and the grandmother of William Pitt Kīna‘u (son of William Pitt Leleiōhoku (I) and Princess Ruth Ke‘elikōlani).
When Princess Ruth Ke‘elikōlani died in 1883, her will bequeathed to Princess Pauahi her elaborate mansion, Keōua Hale (on Emma Street in Honolulu) and approximately 353,000 acres (143,000 ha) of Kamehameha lands, totaling nearly nine percent of the land of the Hawaiian Islands!
In 1885, Princess Pauahi also inherited the house known as Haleakalā (near King and Bishop Streets), which was the home of her parents, Abner Pākī and Konia [Laura Konia]. Princess Pauahi also inherited approximately 25,000 acres (10,000 ha) of land from Pākī and Konia [Laura Konia], and Pauahi’s aunt, ‘Akāhi.
[Photographs: Pākī, Konia [Laura Konia]]
Princess Pauahi was said to have once been engaged to the young Lot Kapuāiwa Kamehameha (who became King Kamehameha V), but instead she chose to marry Charles Reed Bishop. They wed on June 4, 1850 at the Royal School(known as Chiefs’ Children’s School until 1846), a school which Princess Pauahi had attended beginning at the age of eight.
Just an hour before King Kamehameha V passed away on December 11, 1872, he offered to name Princess Pauahi as his successor, but she declined. Princess Victoria Kamāmalu (sister of King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani) and King Kamehameha V) had earlier been named the successor to the throne, but she had passed away in 1866. King Kamehameha V was eventually succeeded on the throne by William Charles Lunalilo (King Lunalilo).
Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop and Charles Reed Bishop lived in their Honolulu home known as Haleakalā, which was built in 1847 by Abner Pākī, Princess Pauahi’s father.
In 1875, King Kalākaua gave Princess Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop the Grand Cross of the Order of Kamehameha. When Princess Pauahi died in 1884, her will left 434,000 acres (175,634 ha) of land in perpetual trust to assist in the establishment of two schools in the Kamehameha name, and thus the Kamehameha Schools Bishop Estate was founded.
Ka wahine hele lā o Kaiona, alualu wai li‘ulā o ke kaha pua ‘ōhai.
The woman, Kaiona, who travels in the sunshine pursuing the mirage
of the place where the ‘ōhai blossoms grow.
Kaiona was a goddess of Ka‘ala and the Wai‘anae Mountains. She was a kind person who helped anyone who lost his way in the mountains by sending a bird, an ‘iwa, to guide the lost one out of the forest. In modern times Princess Bernice Pauahi Bishop was compared to Kaiona in songs.
(Pukui: 1643-177)
Under the terms of the endowment of benefactor, Princess Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop, Kamehameha School for Boys opened in Honolulu on October 4, 1887, and then Kamehameha School for Girls opened on December 19, 1894.
Today the Bishop Estate, officially renamed Kamehameha Schools, continues to operate Kamehameha Schools, including the 600-acre (243-ha) Kapālama campus in Honolulu as well as smaller campuses on Maui and Hawai‘i Island. The Estate has vast land holdings and investments worth nearly $7 billion, and educates more than 51,000 students annually on three campuses as well as through charter schools, community outreach programs, and in 28 preschools. (SeeChapter 11, Timeline: 1831, Dec. 19 for a Biographical Sketch of Princess Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop.)
Charles Reed Bishop (1822-1915)
[Photograph: Charles Reed Bishop]
Born in Glen Falls, New York on January 25, 1822, Charles Reed Bishop was orphaned as a child and raised by his grandparents. He attended Glen Falls Academy through the eighth grade, working on his grandparents’ farm and then at various jobs in New York.
At age 24, Bishop sailed around Cape Horn bound for Oregon. However, when his ship stopped in the Hawaiian Islands to take on provisions, Bishop stayed, first posting books for the government and then in 1849 becoming Honolulu’s Collector General of Customs. Bishop later opened a mercantile business with A.W. Aldrich.
In 1858, out of an office near Honolulu’s waterfront, they formed the firm of Aldrich and Bishop, which later became the Bank of Bishop & Co. Ltd. Much of the bank’s initial business involved loans to companies involved in the whaling and sugar industries, and later significant business with “Big Five” companies: Alexander & Baldwin, Castle & Cooke, Amfac, Theo H. Davies, and C. Brewer. In 1969, the Bank of Bishop & Co. Ltd. was renamed First Hawaiian Bank, and remains today as the State of Hawai‘i’s oldest financial institution.
Charles Reed Bishop served on the Board of Education under King Kamehameha V (Lot Kapuāiwa Kamehameha), King Lunalilo, and King Kalākaua, and then belonged to the Privy Council of Queen Lili‘uokalani. With his wife, Princess Pauahi, Charles Reed Bishop traveled to England in 1876. The couple was presented at Queen Victoria’s Court, and was later received by Pope Pius IX in Rome.
Charles Reed Bishop was known for his philanthropy, serving on the boards of various charities and contributing generously to many needy causes. After Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop passed away in 1884, her husband played a large role in carrying out the wishes stated in his wife’s will, which included the establishment of Kamehameha Schools.
Princess Pauahi’s estate was incredibly wealthy in land assets but very limited in available cash, so Charles Reed Bishop contributed much of his own money to help construct the first school buildings at the original Kalihi location on O‘ahu. The first buildings included the Preparatory Department facilities constructed in 1888, as well as Bishop Hall, constructed in 1891. Bishop Hall became part of the Bishop Museum when the Kamehameha School was relocated in the 1960s. In 1897, Bernice Pauahi Bishop Memorial Chapel was built.
To honor his wife, Charles Reed Bishop founded the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum in 1889, constructing Polynesian Hall and Hawaiian Hall on the same site as the school. The museum was meant to complement the Hawaiian education being provided for the students.
Collection materials initially came from three prominent women who passed away in the mid-1880s: Ruth Ke‘elikōlani (granddaughter of King Kamehameha I); Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop (great-granddaughter of King Kamehameha I); and Queen Emma, wife of King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani) and great-granddaughter of the brother of King Kamehameha I. The Bishop Museum collection was greatly increased by the transfer of ownership of the Kingdom of Hawai‘i’s National Museum collection to Bishop Museum (see Bishop Museum—History and Purposeabove).
In 1894, Charles Reed Bishop moved to San Francisco, California, though he maintained contact with officials at Kamehameha Schools to ensure the school continued to carry out its mission of educating children of the Hawaiian Islands. When Charles Reed Bishop passed away in 1915, his ashes were interred next to his wife in the Kamehameha Tomb at the Royal Mausoleum at Nu‘uanu, O‘ahu.
Honolulu’s Bishop Street, named after Charles Reed Bishop, is the business and finance center of the State of Hawai‘i as well as the entire Pacific region. Charles Reed Bishop is remembered for his many years of service to Hawai‘i as a public official, a prominent banker and financier, and a philanthropist. He is also remembered as the husband of the beloved Princess Pauahi.
Historic Waikīkī
[Photograph: Old Waikīkī photo]
In ancient Hawaiian times, Waikīkī encompassed more than 2,000 acres (809 ha) of marshland. The entire area was a vast drainage basin for the Ko‘olau Mountain Range. Early Hawaiians settlers converted the marshland into lo‘i kalo (taro patches), loko i‘a (fishponds) and other agricultural uses. Fed by the waters of the Mānoa and Makiki Valleys, the land of Waikīkī was fertile and productive.
Steeped in history, Waikīkī was also the site of the 1795 landing of Kamehameha the Great’s war canoes during his last military conquest. Having already conquered Hawai‘i Island, Maui, Lāna‘i, and Moloka‘i, Kamehameha landed a huge fleet of war canoes on O‘ahu’s south shore from Waikīkī to Wai‘alae, totaling an estimated 960 canoes, 20 foreign ships, and 16,000 fighters, many trained in modern musketry.
Kamehameha’s warriors advanced over the plains, battling an estimated 9,000 warriors of O‘ahu’s Chief, Kalanikūpule. The fighting moved upland, culminating in the Battle of Nu‘uanu when Kamehameha’s troops drove the enemy up toward Nu‘uanu Pali where some of Kalanikūpule’s warriors escaped over the valley’s ridges and some made it down a trail at the end of the pali (cliff). Others were driven over the edge of the cliffs of Nu‘uanu Pali. (Note: Accounts of this battle vary, and it may be that some warriors jumped rather than surrender.) As many as 10,000 warriors may have died in the battle, making the confrontation the deadliest event ever in the Hawaiian Islands (including the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor). (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1795, April for more details of the Battle of Nu‘uanu.)
Waikīkī in Transition
Waikīkī began to change in the late 1800s as duck ponds replaced many areas that were formerly lo‘i kalo (taro patches) and loko i‘a (fishponds). Land converted into duck ponds included the area that is now the site of the Ala Moana shopping center. By the 1870s, very little taro was being produced in Waikīkī, which was dominated by rice fields planted primarily by Chinese immigrants.
In 1877, King Kalākaua dedicated Kapi‘olani Park to his wife, Queen Kapi‘olani. The spacious park, nearly 200 acres (81 ha) in size, is located at the eastern (Diamond Head) end of Waikīkī. The first public park in the Hawaiian Islands, Kapi‘olani Park was used at the turn of the century for horse racing, polo games, band concerts and other festive activities. (See Kapi‘olani Park below.)
Looking over Waikīkī is the geographical landmark known to science as a volcanic tuff cone, known in ancient Hawai‘i as Lē‘ahi, and with the modern name Diamond Head. Rising to 760 feet (231 m), the natural landmark received its current name when 19th century British sailors mistook the volcanic cone’s calcite crystals for diamonds. (See Diamond Head below.)
Waikīkī—A Resort Destination
On March 11, 1901, the Moana Hotel opened. The 75-room, four-story hotel was known as the “First Lady of Waikīkī,” and at the time it was the tallest building in the Hawaiian Islands. The architect of the building was Oliver Green Traphagen. Fifteen years later, the hotel added 100 more rooms as well as a seaside courtyard.
[Photograph: Moana Hotel]
In 1902, an electric trolley (tram line) was built to connect Waikīkī and downtown Honolulu. This replaced the horse-driven tram cars. The hotel and tram line construction began the process of popularizing Waikīkī as a resort destination, and was also the impetus for building the Ala Wai Canal to drain the wetlands.
The Ala Wai Canal was constructed from 1919 to 1928, with funds provided by the Waikīkī Reclamation Project, to drain the region’s wet marshes and make way for streets, businesses, hotels, and houses. The former ponds were filled with coral rubble, creating some of the most valuable real estate in the Hawaiian Islands.
Waikīkī gradually became a place of quiet palm-lined beaches where the wealthy built their gingerbread-trimmed cottages. It was also home to Hawaiian royalty, and was considered a place of healing, peace, and hospitality. Influential tourists such as Robert Louis Stevenson, who visited Waikīkī in 1889 and 1893, sang its praises.
In 1926, Aloha Tower opened on the waterfront at Honolulu Harbor, becoming the tallest structure in the Hawaiian Islands. The 184-foot (56-m) high tower is topped with a 40-foot (12-m) flagstaff and a 7-ton (6.4-mton) clock. The building was designed by architect Arthur Reynolds.
The Royal Hawaiian Hotel (nicknamed the “Pink Palace”) opened in February of 1927, continuing the restructuring of Waikīkī’s coastline and increasing its reputation as an exotic playground for the rich and famous. The two million dollar hotel, with its elegant chandeliers, high ceilings, pink stucco walls, and pink turrets, was built and owned by the Matson Navigation Company.
[Photograph: Royal Hawaiian Hotel]
Matson also built a $7.5-million premier cruise ship, the Malolo, which held up to 650 passengers and provided luxurious transportation to the fine new hotel. Guests such as Nelson Rockefeller, Henry Ford II, Babe Ruth, and Charlie Chaplin enjoyed the accommodations, which would eventually attract a whole multitude of heirs, heiresses, and Hollywood stars such as Douglas Fairbanks and Mary Pickford.
The Ala Moana shopping center now sits on an area that was marshland in the early 1900s when much of it was 3 feet (.9 m) underwater and covered with duck farms. In 1931, the City and County of Honolulu acted to clean up the area, which had also been the site of a refuse dump.
President Franklin Delano Roosevelt dedicated Moana Park in 1934, and it was renamed Ala Moana in 1947. Eventually sand was brought to the beachfront area, and the two-story Ala Moana shopping center was built on the adjacent 50 acres (20 ha) of land. The Ala Moana shopping center opened in 1959, the same year the Hawaiian Islands were admitted as the 50th state.
The Waikīkī Beachboys
From the 1920s to the 1950s, a group of water sports instructors working on the beaches fronting the Royal Hawaiian and Moana Hotels came to be known as the Waikīkī Beachboys. The first Waikīkī Beach Patrol was organized in the 1930s. Many of the Beachboys had colorful names such as Toots, Chick, Steamboat and Turkey.
One of the most famous of the Beachboys was the legendary surfer and Olympic gold medallist Duke Kahanamoku(see Duke Kahanamoku, Chapter 3). Duke and other local surfers founded Hui Nalu (Club of the Waves) in 1911, and many of the club members eventually became Waikīkī Beachboys. Their clients along Waikīkī’s beachfront were mostly wealthy visitors who wanted to surf or ride an outrigger canoe in the waves. Clients also included Hawaiian royalty as well as the general public.
Many visitors to Waikīkī stayed for lengthy periods of time, and the Beachboys developed friendships with them, and also shared with them their aloha spirit, and insights into Hawaiian culture. There were also many gifted musicians among the Beachboys. Of course, the Waikīkī Beachboys also had many female clients, and rumors of the Beachboys’ amorous adventures abound.
O ka papa he‘e nalu kēia, pahe‘e i ka nalu ha‘i o Makaiwa.
This is the surfboard that will glide on the rolling surf of Makaiwa.
A woman’s boast. Her beautiful body is like the surfboard
on which her mate “glides over the rolling surf.”
(Pukui: 2433-265)
The Hawaiian Islands increasingly became more accessible as a vacation destination for the average United States citizen. Consequently, the length of a typical visitor’s stay in the Islands became shorter, and the nature of tourism began to change. After the attack on Pearl Harbor in 1941, the United States entered World War II and Martial Law was imposed in the Hawaiian Islands. The carefree lifestyle of the Islands changed drastically, and the golden era of the Waikīkī Beachboys ended.
In 1973, the Waikīkī Beachboys Canoe Club was formed to restore the original image of Waikīkī Beachboys, embodying not only surfing and canoe paddling skills, but also a generous and open-hearted aloha spirit.
[Illustration: Outrigger canoe in Waikīkī]
Modern Waikīkī—Beaches, Historic Sites, and other Attractions
Waikīkī is a cosmopolitan melting pot of hotels, parks, gourmet restaurants, fast food outlets, lively dance clubs, countless shopping opportunities, nightlife, and something for just about everyone.
Just ½-mile (.8 km) wide by 1½ miles (2.4 km) long, Waikīkī has more than 25,000 residents, 70,000 visiting tourists, 500 restaurants, more than 1,000 shops, and more than 190 hotels and vacation condominiums, along with hundreds of entertainment venues, all in an area of only about 681 acres (276 ha).
Waikīkī is lined with white sandy beaches, calm water, and great surfing areas for beginners. Surfboards are available for rent, along with other water sports equipment.
The whole length of sand fronting Waikīkī is generally known as Waikīkī Beach, but various individual beaches along this stretch of coastline are named, including Kahanamoku Beach (named after “The Duke”). There are many legendary surf spots offshore, including Rock Piles, Kaisers, Canoes, Queen’s, and Castles. Famous old hotels still grace the beach, including the Moana Hotel (1901) and the Royal Hawaiian Hotel (1927).
The following is an overview of Waikīkī’s beaches along information about historic sites in the area. The overview of Waikīkī moves from west to east, including beaches, historic locations, and other important sites that may all be seen along the relatively short but world famous stretch of coastline.
Ala Wai Canal
[Photograph: Ala Wai Canal]
The Ala Wai Canal is a prominent Waikīkī waterway that runs for 25 blocks, separating Waikīkī from Honolulu. Constructed from 1919 to 1928, the Ala Wai Canal was built to help drain the water from what used to be the wetlands and marshes of Waikīkī (see Historic Waikīkī section above). Waikiki means “Spouting water,” a reminder of how wet the area was before the Ala Wai Canal was constructed.
When Waikīkī’s water was captured and diverted, the land became a world-class resort area. While driving alongside the Ala Wai Canal today one commonly sees walkers and joggers enjoying the waterside path while paddlers ply the waterway in their outrigger canoes.
Kahanamoku Beach and Lagoon
Location: Western end of Waikīkī in front of the Hilton Hawaiian Village Hotel.
Kahanamoku Beach includes a pier and breakwater, and coral running between the two acts as a break to provide a safe swimming area. The pier also provides a water taxi service to catamaran and submarine cruises. A grassy park area fronting Kahanamoku Beach provides ample room for relaxing.
The beach is named after Duke Kahanamoku, the legendary Hawaiian surfer and Olympic champion swimmer who later became a movie star (1922-1933), and then the Sheriff of the City and County of Honolulu for 26 years (1934 to1960). (See Duke Kahanamoku, Chapter 3.)
Fort DeRussy Beach
Location: Fronting Fort DeRussy Military Reservation, Waikīkī.
Fort DeRussy Beach extends for about 1,800 feet (549 m) along the Waikīkī coastline. There are two huts that rent water sports equipment. Bordering the beach are picnic tables, green grass, shady trees and picnic shelters that are all part of the 20 acres (8 ha) of government property known as Fort DeRussy Military Reservation used as a recreational area for United States military personnel and their families.
Founded in 1908, Fort DeRussy Beach was named after Brigadier General Rene E. DeRussy, who served with distinction in the Corps of Engineers in the American-British War of 1812.
U.S. Army Museum of Hawai‘i
Location: Kālia and Saratoga Roads / Phone: 808-438-2821
[Photograph: World War II tanks in front of Museum]
The U.S. Army Museum of Hawai‘i at Fort DeRussy opened on December 7, 1976, the 35th anniversary of the attack on Pearl Harbor, the event that entered the United States into World War II. The museum’s collection of weapons is housed in a concrete-reinforced building known as Battery Randolph, which was built in 1911 as one of six coastal artillery battery defenses constructed on O‘ahu from 1908 to 1915.
The concrete roof and walls of the Fort are 12 feet (3.7 m) thick, except for the wall on the ocean side, which is 22 feet (6.7 m) thick. The structure was almost demolished by the military in 1969, but when the wrecking ball broke they reconsidered, and established the museum.
The Battery once held two 14-inch (36-cm) guns that had a range of about 11 miles (18 km) and fired projectiles weighing 1,560 pounds (708 kg). The guns were designed to recoil down into the building for reloading after each firing, and then were returned into firing position with the assistance of a 55-ton (50-mton) counterweight.
The U.S. Army Museum of Hawai‘i now exhibits weaponry from wars fought by the United States as well as weaponry of ancient Hawai‘i. On display are World War II tanks and other weapons from U.S. wars, as well as traditional Hawaiian weapons such as shark-tooth clubs. Photographs, scale models, dioramas, and other educational displays provide information about the military history of the Hawaiian Islands, from the wars of King Kamehameha I that established the Hawaiian Kingdom, to the pivotal role of the Hawaiian Islands in World War II.
Gray’s Beach
Location: Just to the east (Diamond Head) side of the Halekūlani Hotel.
[Photograph: Gray’s Beach, Halekūlani Hotel]
A boardinghouse called Gray’s-by-the-Sea once stood in front of this beach. The boardinghouse was run by Mrs. LaVancha Gray, the namesake of the beach. Before 1912, the boardinghouse was the J. Gilman residence.
Depending on the tides, this beach may be totally submerged due to a seawall in front of the hotel. The beach is also at the location where an opening in the reef was created for a boat landing.
Gray’s Beach was traditionally used as a place of healing, and bathing in the water was done as a treatment for the sick. The beach’s reef entrance and channel is traditionally known as Kawehewehe (“The removal”), and was a place where Hawaiians that were ill came to bathe for healing purposes. Some patients would wear a lei of limu kala (Sargassum echinocarpum) into the water, and then leave it there in hopes of forgiveness for transgressions. (See Limu Kala, Chapter 8.)
The Waikīkī area in general was considered a place of healing, and royalty in particular came to Waikīkī to convalesce and recuperate. The renowned coastal region was also home to many kāhuna lapa‘au (traditional healers).
Statue of Princess Ka‘iulani
Location: Corner of Kānekapōlei and Kūhiō Streets in Waikīkī.
Stepping away from the coast for a moment is well worth it to see the statue of the beloved Princess Victoria Ka‘iulani. The statue was dedicated on October 16, 1999, the 124th anniversary of her birth. The 7-foot (2.1-m) bronze sculpture depicts the princess holding her hand out to a peacock.
Princess Ka‘iulani had many peacocks (also known by the Hawaiian word pīkake), and was referred to by some as the “Princess of the Peacocks.” The birds roamed the gardens of fragrant, white Arabian jasmine flowers (Jasminum sambac) at Princess Ka‘iulani’s spacious Waikīkī estate known as ‘Āinahau, which was built by her father, Archibald Scott Cleghorn, the Governor of O‘ahu. The blossom of the white Arabian jasmine flower was a favorite of Princess Ka‘iulani. From its association with the young princess, the Arabian jasmine flower later became known by the Hawaiian term pīkake.
Princess Ka‘iulani was proclaimed heir apparent to the Hawaiian Kingdom when Queen Lili‘uokalani ascended to the throne in 1891. The young princess attended boarding school in England, and was a talented artist, musician, horseback rider, and swimmer. She was also active in many charitable causes.
On March 6, 1899, at the age of 23, Princess Ka‘iulani died at ‘Āinahau, where her favored flowers grew and where her peacocks roamed. The princess had become ill after going horseback riding in a rainstorm. Though her death was attributed to a fever, many believe she died of a broken heart, as the last Hawaiian princess, and heiress to a vanished throne. On the night she died the peacocks (pīkake) are said to have made extremely loud vocal displays of their grief.(See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1875 for Biographical Sketch of Princess Ka‘iulani; also see Pīkake in Lei Flowers, Chapter 3.)
Royal Moana Beach / Central Waikīkī Beach
Location: In front of the Royal Moana, Outrigger Waikīkī and Royal Hawaiian hotels.
This sandy beach area includes a beach activity center (operated by the Outrigger) that provides opportunities for surfing and canoe rides. Offshore from this beach are the famous surfing spots known as Canoes and Queen’s. Those interested in Hawaiian history should take a tour of the Moana Hotel, built in 1901, and the Royal Hawaiian Hotel, built in 1927. (See Historic Waikīkī section.)
Opposite the Hyatt Regency Waikīkī Hotel is the Waikīkī Beach Center. The availability of food, canoe rentals, restrooms, and benches make this a favorite place for locals to congregate.
Nā Pōhaku Ola Kapaemāhu Ā Kapuni—The Stones of Life
Location: Eastern side of the Waikīkī Beach Center.
[Photograph: The Stones of Life]
These four large boulders known as Nā Pōhaku Ola Kapaemāhu Ā Kapuni are also known as the Stones of Life, and sometimes are referred to as the Wizard Stones of Kapaemāhu. According to legend, the four large rocks hold the secrets and the healing forces of four powerful Tahitian healers: Kahāloa, Kapuni, Kinohi and Kapaemāhū.
The healers once resided at Ulukou (“Kou-tree grove”) in Waikīkī, where the Moana Hotel is today. The four Tahitian healers are said to have come from Moa‘ulanuiakea on the island of Raiatea, sometime before the 1500s, around the same time that the reign of the beloved O‘ahu chief Kākuhihewa began.
The fame of the powerful Tahitian healers grew as they traveled throughout the Hawaiian Islands administering cures. When it came time for the men to return to their homeland, four huge stones were quarried from the Kaimukī area of Honolulu. The Tahitian healers are said to have transferred their own powers into the boulders before leaving the Hawaiian Islands.
The stones were placed on a paepae (stone platform) and an ahu (altar) in 1997. The largest of the stones weighs about 7.5 tons (6.8 mtons). Also now on display is a small stone from the healers’ homeland. This stone was presented to the Hawaiians by Tahitians from Raiatea for the 1997 ceremonies. They named this stone Ta‘ahu, which means “The Life.”
Statue of Duke Kahanamoku
Location: East (Diamond Head) side of the Waikīkī Beach Center.
[Photograph: Duke Kahanamoku]
He kā‘e‘a‘e‘a pulu ‘olo no ka he‘e nalu.
An expert on the surfboard who does not get wet.
Praise of an outstanding surfer.
(Pukui: 649-73)
Along the Waikīkī waterfront is the 9-foot (2.7-m) statue of Duke Kahanamoku (1890-1968), a famous Hawaiian waterman and Olympic swimming champion.
A full-blooded Hawaiian and a descendant of Hawaiian royalty, Duke Paoa Kahinu Mokoe Hulikohola Kahanamoku was born August 24, 1890. In 1905, Duke Kahanamoku surfed Waikīkī and began the rebirth of Hawaiian surfing. He also introduced surfing to other places around the world, including Australia, Europe, and the United States.In 1911, Duke set an American swimming record in the 100-yard sprint. He later went on to set a world record, and won a total of 6 medals in the 1912, 1920, 1924, and 1932 Olympics. Duke had a career in Hollywood from 1925 to 1933, appearing in about 30 movies.
Yet another of Duke’s accomplishments was serving as Sheriff of Honolulu for 26 years, from 1934 to 1960 (13 consecutive terms). He was also credited with saving many lives through brave ocean rescues, including a daring rescue offshore of Coronal del Mar, California in 1925, where he saved eight people from a capsized launch by rescuing them on his surfboard. Duke Kahanamoku was later designated as Hawai‘i’s official “ambassador of aloha.” (See Duke Kahanamoku, Chapter 3.)
Kūhiō Beach Park
Kūhiō Beach Park is named after Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana‘ole Pi‘ikoi (1871-1922), whose home fronting this beach was torn down in 1936. (See Statue of Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana‘ole below, and Chapter 11, Timeline: 1871, Mar. 26.) At the eastern end of Kūhiō Beach Park is Kapahulu Groin, a storm drain extending out into the water. This is also a favorite spot for body boarders to display their skills.
A breakwater extending from the Kapahulu Groin parallel to the beach for about 1,300 feet (396 m) provides a relatively safe area to watch bodyboarders and surfers who daringly ride the waves toward the wall, often barely avoiding a collision to the amazement of onlookers. Sidewalk pavilions make Kūhiō Beach Park a popular gathering place for locals playing chess and cribbage.
Statue of Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana‘ole
Location: Ocean side of Kalākaua Avenue near where it intersects with ‘Ohua Avenue.
[Photograph: Statue of Prince Kūhiō]
Prince Kūhiō was born on March 26, 1871 to David Kahelepouli Pi‘ikoi and Princess Esther Kinoiki Kekaulike near Hō‘ai Bay at Kukui‘ula (“Red light”[17]) west of Kōloa, Kaua‘i. Prince Kūhiō was the nephew of Queen Kapi‘olani (sister of Princess Esther Kinoiki Kekaulike), who adopted him, and the great grandson of Kaumuali‘i, the paramount ruler of Kaua‘i who ceded the island to King Kamehameha I in 1810 to avoid war.
Prince Kūhiō was born in the Kōloa region of Kaua‘i’s southern coast near Hō‘ai Bay in a grass house at an ancient fishing village called Kukui‘ula (“Red light”[18]). He was the youngest of three boys, all considered ali‘i (royalty) due to their royal descent from Kaua‘i’s paramount ruler (king) Kaumuali‘i. One brother, Edward Keali‘ihonui, died in his teens.
Jonah Kūhiō and his other brother David Kawānanakoa were adopted into the childless royal family of King Kalākaua and Queen Kapi‘olani after the boys’ father, David Kahalepouli Pi‘ikoi, died when Kūhiō was ten.
Kalaniana‘ole, means “The royal chief without measure,”[19] referring to the prince’s noble heredity, which includes the royal lineage of Kūhiō’s mother, Esther Kinoiki Kekaulike, who was appointed governor of Hawai‘i Island by King Kalākaua.
When Kūhiō was 13 years old, King Kalākaua declared Jonah and his brother David princes by royal decree with the intent that they would carry on the Kalākaua dynasty. King Kalākaua and Queen Kapi‘olani held an official coronation on February 12, 1883 at ‘Iolani Palace, and the jeweled royal crowns were carried by Prince Kūhiō and his brother DavidKawānanakoa.
Due to his cherubic and handsome looks, Prince Kūhiō was sometimes referred to as Prince Cupid, a name given to him in his youth by his French teacher. Prince Kūhiō attended the Royal School and Punahou School on O‘ahu, and then attended St. Matthew’s College in California before enrolling in the Royal Agricultural College in Cirencester, England. He then graduated from an English business school.
Prince Kūhiō was a master of the traditional Hawaiian art of lua (ancient Hawaiian form of martial arts). He also competed on school teams in the sports of football and track.
In 1884, Kūhiō was appointed to the Cabinet of the Hawaiian Kingdom by Kalākau to administer the Department of the Interior. With the support of King Kalākaua, Prince Kūhiō studied Japanese culture and government for one year inJapan. The king hoped the Prince would find a royal Japanese bride and form a marital alliance between the Hawaiian Islands and Japan.
Prince Kūhiō was named as presumptive heir to the throne by Queen Lili‘uokalani after she ascended to the throne in 1891, making Kūhiō the last royally-designated heir. After he returned to the Hawaiian Islands just before the Hawaiian monarchy was overthrown in 1893, Prince Kūhiō worked to restore Queen Lili‘uokalani to the throne.
In 1895 at the age of 24, Prince Kūhiō participated in a royalist uprising (a counter-revolution) against the Republicof Hawai‘i, and was arrested by the Provisional Government, charged with treason, and imprisoned for one year.
After his release from prison, Prince Kūhiō married Elizabeth Kahanu Ka‘auwai, a full-blooded Hawaiian chiefess who was the daughter of a Maui chief, and they took a trip to Africa. Disheartened by the events in the Hawaiian Islands, Prince Kūhiō joined the British Army in South Africa in the Boer War.
Prince Kūhiō was next in line to ascend to the throne after Princess Ka‘iulani passed away in 1899, but the restoration of the monarchy became more unlikely with each passing year.
Prince Kūhiō and his wife returned to the Hawaiian Islands in 1901. He helped organize the Republican Party in 1902 and that same year he was elected as the Territory of Hawai‘i’s second, non-voting delegate to the United States Congress (after Robert Wilcox), serving in the position for a total of 20 years (ten, two-year terms) until he died in 1922.
Prince Kūhiō helped to found the Order of Kamehameha in 1903 and the Hawaiian Civic Club of Honolulu in 1918. The Civic Club’s tradition of community involvement continues today.
Due to his political efforts to help Hawaiians and promote self-sufficiency among the native population, Prince Kūhiō was known as Ke Ali‘i Maka‘āinana, which means “Chief of the Commoners,” “Citizen Prince,” or “Prince of the People.”
Throughout his life, Prince Kūhiō worked to preserve the traditions and culture of native Hawaiians. One of Prince Kūhiō’s legacies was his inspired involvement in the passing of the Hawaiian Homestead Commission Act, which was enacted on July 9, 1921 to provide low-cost homestead and farming land to Hawaiians with at least 50% native Hawaiian ancestry based on blood quantum.
A total of 203,500 acres (82,354 ha) was designated as “available lands” for the program, but the sugar companies had lobbied to exclude all areas that were not used for sugar, which included most of the best agricultural land in the Hawaiian Islands. No money was available to develop the second-tier parcels and thus most of the lands were not used.
During the first 70 years after the passage of Hawaiian Homestead Commission Act of 1920, just 3,000 families received lands and many people who were on the original list of applications passed away before receiving land.
Of his political efforts, Prince Kūhiō stated, “The legislation proposed seeks to place the Hawaiian back on the soil, so that the valuable and sturdy traits of that race, peculiarly adapted to the islands, shall be preserved to posterity.”[20]
Prince Kūhiō’s home was called Pualeilani, which means “Flower from the wreath of heaven.” The home was located across Kalākaua Avenue from Kūhiō Beach Park.
Prince Kūhiō passed away due to heart disease on January 7, 1922 at the age of 50. He was given the last state funeral held for a Hawaiian ali‘i (royalty), and was laid to rest at the Royal Mausoleum in O‘ahu’s Nu‘uanu Valley.
Prince Kūhiō Park is located near the Prince Kūhiō’s birthplace on Kaua‘i’s southern shore west of Kōloa. The park features a pond and terraced stone walls, Hō‘ai Heiau, and a statue of the prince that was unveiled on June 17, 1928 with about 10,000 people in attendance.
Prince Kūhiō’s life is celebrated with an annual state holiday each year on Prince Kūhiō Day, the prince’s birthday, March 26. Prince Kūhiō Day is traditionally a day of canoe races and other local events, including a ceremony at PrinceKūhiō Park on Kaua‘i.
Kūhiō Beach Park in Waikīkī is named after Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana‘ole Pi‘ikoi, whose home fronting the beach was torn down in 1936. (See Kūhiō Beach Park; and Statue of Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana‘ole in O‘ahu section, Chapter 2; Prince Kūhiō Park/Hō‘ai Heiau in Kaua‘i section, Chapter 2; and Chapter 11: Timeline: 1871, March 26 forBiographical Sketch of Prince Kūhiō.)
Damien Museum
Location: 130 ‘Ōhua Avenue, Waikīkī / Phone: 808-923-2690
Open 9-3, Mon.-Fri. / Website: www.smcenter.org/staugustine
[Photograph: Damien Museum (artifacts inside; vestment of Father Damien)]
The Damien Museum is a small museum but an important place to visit for anyone interested in Hawaiian history. The museum is located behind St. Augustine’s Church on the corner of Kalākaua Ave. and Ohua Ave. on the Waikīkī waterfront. St. Augustine’s Church is a steep-roofed structure that is hard to miss, and is notable for its many, beautiful works of stained glass.
Housed in a separate building behind the church, the Damien Museum honors Father Damien (Joseph Damien DeVeuster), who was born in Belgium on January 3, 1840. Father Damien became a member of the Missionary Congregation of the Sacred Hearts, and in 1864 he was ordained as a Roman Catholic priest at Honolulu’s Cathedral of Our Lady of Peace. In 1873, Father Damien volunteered to go to Moloka‘i’s Kalaupapa Peninsula to minister to the victims of Hansen’s Disease (leprosy), which is caused by Mycobacterium leprae, a slow-growing bacterium. Father Damien died of leprosy at Kalaupapa 16 years later, on April 15, 1889.
The Damien Museum features video presentations related to Father Damien, as well as photographs, artifacts and some of the legendary priest’s personal effects. Referred to as the “martyr of Moloka‘i,” Father Damien is also immortalized in a statue that faces Beretania St. on O‘ahu, in front of the State Capitol Building.
A selfless servant to those in need, Father Damien was beatified by Pope John Paul II on June 4, 1995 in Brussels, Belgium. (For more information on Father Damien, see Moloka‘i section; Statue of Father Damien in Honolulu section; and Chapter 11, Timeline: 1865; 1873; 1889; 1969; 1995.)
Kapi‘olani Beach Park
Location: Extends from the Kapahulu Groin past Waikīkī Aquarium.
The waters offshore of the midsection of Kapi‘olani Beach Park are a favorite area for bodyboarders. The surf spot offshore is known as Publics.
A grass lawn and coconut palms along Kapi‘olani Beach Park provide a pleasant place to relax. The Queen’s Surf pavilion has showers and restrooms, and a concession called The Beach House sells various food items. Mauka (toward the mountains) and across the Kalākaua Avenue is Kapi‘olani Park (see below).
War Memorial Natatorium
[Photograph: War Memorial Natatorium]
The War Memorial Natatorium is a tide-fed, saltwater pool that serves as a memorial to the 179 men and women of the Hawaiian Islands that died as soldiers in World War I. Built in 1927, the 100-meter-long swimming pool is the largest saltwater pool in the United States.
In the past, the pool was used for training by champion swimmers such as Duke Kahanamoku and Johnny Weissmuller. The War Memorial Natatorium is now listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
Sans Souci Beach
Location: East of War Memorial Natatorium.
Sans Souci Beach provides a calm swimming area to the east of the War Memorial Natatorium and near the New Otani Kaimana Beach Hotel. The name Sans Souci is French for “without care” and was also the name of a small hotel that once stood where the new hotel is now. Famed author Robert Louis Stevenson penned his praises of the area while he stayed at the San Souci Hotel for five weeks in 1893.
The reef-protected swimming area at San Souci Beach makes it a favorite among many locals who swim their daily laps there. The beach is also a popular snorkeling area, and showers are available.
Just to the east of San Souci Beach is the Outrigger Canoe Club Beach, in front of the Outrigger Canoe Club, which was founded in 1908. Offshore is the surf spot now known as Castles, but in ancient times the surf spot was known as Kalehuawehe, which means (“Removed lehua lei”). The name refers to the legend of Pīkoi, who wore a lehua lei while trying to convince a surfing chiefess (the wife of a ruling chief) to give him her board. She refused because the board was kapu (sacred), but Pīkoi gave the chiefess his lei.
Ka nalu ha‘i o Kalehuawehe.
The rolling surf of Kalehuawehe.
Ka-lehua-wehe (Take-off-the-lehua) was Waikīkī’s most famous surf.
It was so named when a legendary hero took off his lei of lehua blossoms and gave it to the wife of the ruling chief, with whom he was surfing.
(Pukui: 1493-161)
It is said that Kalehuawehe surf spot was created by a stream that once ran through the center of Waikīkī and then emptied into the ocean near where the Moana Hotel is today. The stream, known as ‘Āpuakēhau (which means “Basket of dew”), is said to have carved out the seafloor offshore from Waikīkī, creating the legendary surf spot. The construction of the Ala Wai Canal in 1919 meant the end of ‘Āpuakēhau Stream.
Kapi‘olani Park
Location: Eastern (Diamond Head) end of Waikīkī.
[Photograph: Kapi‘olani Park]
Kapi‘olani Park was dedicated in 1877 and named by King Kalākaua to honor his wife, Queen Kapi‘olani. The park was once the site of band concerts, polo games, horse races, and (later) car races. After the Hawaiian Islands were annexed by the United States in 1898, Kapi‘olani Park was used as an encampment by the United States Army.
In modern times, Kapi‘olani Park serves a variety of uses, hosting sporting events and musical concerts, and providing a nice place to rest under a shady banyan tree. With a great view of Diamond Head (Lē‘ahi), Kapi‘olani Park spans over nearly 200 acres (80 ha), and includes large grassy lawns as well as sports fields and tennis courts. Shady areas are provided by tall banyans, palms and ironwood trees.
A stage in the park is known as the Kapi‘olani Bandstand, and is the site of hula performances. The bandstand is also used for concerts by popular bands, and the Royal Hawaiian Band often plays free Sunday afternoon concerts. An outdoor amphitheater in the park is known as the Waikīkī Shell, and hosts rock concerts as well as other musical events, including the Honolulu Symphony.
Honolulu Zoo
Location: 151 Kapahulu Ave / Phone: 808-923-7723
[Photograph: Animals at Honolulu Zoo]
Also in Kapi‘olani Park is the Honolulu Zoo, which covers about 42 acres (17 ha). The zoo is home to about 300 species, with an African Savanna section that has zebras, giraffes, hippos, white rhinos, monkeys, lions, and cheetahs. Other major attractions at the zoo include two elephants, many tropical birds, and a petting zoo.
The fence around the Honolulu Zoo is the site of the Zoo Fence Art Mart, an outdoor art market tradition that goes back decades and is still held several times each week. It is known as a great place to buy some local paintings.
The Kapi‘olani Bandstand, the Waikīkī Shell, and the Honolulu Zoo are all at the western end of Kapi‘olani Park. Near the shoreline at the eastern (Diamond Head) end of the Kapi‘olani Park is the Waikīkī Aquarium (see below).
Waikīkī Aquarium
Location: 2777 Kalākaua Avenue, Waikīkī / Phone: 808-923-9741
Open 9-5 daily;
[Photograph: People looking at aquarium exhibit in Waikīkī Aquarium]
The Waikīkī Aquarium is at the eastern (Diamond Head) end of Kapi‘olani Park, by the ocean. Founded in 1904, it is the oldest aquarium west of the Mississippi River, and is also the United States’ third oldest public aquarium.
Exhibiting more than 2,500 organisms, Waikīkī Aquarium includes more than 420 species of aquatic plants and animals, including black-tip reef sharks, giant clams, translucent jellyfish, colorful reef fish, living coral species, moray eels, a Hawaiian green sea turtle, and Hawaiian monk seals, just to name a few of the species. The aquarium also provides many interactive, educational opportunities for children, including the “touch-me tide pool.” A small theater shows short educational films.
Southeast O‘ahu
Diamond Head State Monument
Diamond Head rises up prominently on the east side of Waikīkī, and a short hike to the summit provides spectacular views. Formed by volcanic activity, Diamond Head is one of O‘ahu’s prominent geologic features known as tuff cones, imminent reminders of O‘ahu’s volcanic past.
The tuff cone and crater of Diamond Head formed long after the major volcanic activity that created O‘ahu. Other prominent O‘ahu tuff cones include Koko Head (Kohelepelepe) and Punchbowl (Pūowaina). [Photograph: Diamond Head]
The Hawaiian name for the highest peak of Diamond Head is Lē‘ahi, a name that is a variation of Lae-‘ahi, said to come from Hi‘iaka, the younger sister of Pele, the legendary goddess of fire and volcanoes. According to legend, it was Hi‘iaka who compared the lae (brow) of the ‘ahi fish to the mountain.
In ancient Hawai‘i, Lē‘ahi was the site of he‘e hōlua (hōlua sledding), which involved using papa hōlua (wooden sleds) to slide down steep hills or specially constructed stone ramps. Also located atop Lē‘ahi was a luakini heiau, a sacred place of worship where human sacrifices were performed.
A Hawaiian proverb states, “Nani Lē‘ahi, he maka no Kahiki,” (“Beautiful Lē‘ahi, object of the eyes from Kahiki,”said to refer to, “Diamond Head, always observed with interest by visitors from foreign lands.”[21]
The site’s common name, Diamond Head, was the result of British sailors in 1825 mistaking calcite crystals found there for diamonds. During World War II, Diamond Head became a military installation.
The construction of Fort Ruger at the edge of the Diamond Head crater began in 1908. A network of tunnels was carved into the mountain, and cannon emplacements were placed atop the crater rim along with observation posts and bunkers. The Fort was reinforced during World War II, though the guns were never fired. Today the Hawai‘i National Guard has a base within Diamond Head crater.
The Diamond Head Trail leading to the summit climbs 560 feet (171 m) over 1½ miles (2.4 m). A tunnel along the trail leads to a 99-step stairway, and then another shorter tunnel and more stairs. At 760 feet (232 m) above sea level, the summit’s panoramic views include Koko Head and Koko Crater on the southeast coast as well as Barbers Point and the Wai‘anae Mountains on the leeward coast. Also visible just beneath Diamond Head is Kapi‘olani Park.
[Diamond Head National Natural Landmark, Montserrat & 18th Avenues, open 6-6 daily.]
Diamond Head Beach
Diamond Head Beach is a popular surfing and windsurfing area. Showers are available, but no restrooms.
[Diamond Head Beach—Directions: Take Wakīkī’s Kalākaua Avenue to Diamond Head Road and park just past the lighthouse. The paved trail to the beach starts past the east side of the parking lot.]
Koko Head Regional Park
Koko Head Regional Park encompasses the whole Koko Head area, including Koko Crater and Koko Head (volcanic tuff cones). Also included in the Regional Park are Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve, Sandy Beach, and the nearby Hālona Blowhole. Each of these sites is described below.
Koko Crater / Koko Head
The geologic tuff cones of Koko Head and Koko Crater are known as geologic tuff cones. Koko Head forms the southwest side of Hanauma Bay.
The 642-foot (196-m) summit of Koko Head includes two craters. Radar facilities are located atop the summit, and there is a road but it is not open to the public. A small botanical garden within Koko Crater is run by the county and features a variety of dryland plants including cacti.
In the summit’s ‘Ihi‘ihilauākea Crater (the bigger of Koko Head’s two summit craters), the unique native ecosystem includes a vernal pool as well as the rare Marsilea villosa fern. ‘Ihi‘ihilauākea means “Wide-leafed ‘ihi‘ihi (an extinct or unknown plant said to have grown at this site).”[22] A preserve in the crater is managed by the Nature Conservancy (808-537-5408), which provides access for volunteers.
[Koko Crater, open 9-4 daily. Directions: Take Kalaniana‘ole Highway (Hwy. 72) to Kealahou Street (at the north side of Sandy Beach); go ½-mile (.8 km); turn left at one-lane road leading to Koko Crater stables; go 1/3 mile (.5 km) to botanical garden.]
Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve
More than one million visitors come to Hanauma Bay each year. The snorkeling is fantastic, with large schools of colorful fish of many different species. Hanauma means “Curved bay.”[23]
Both sides of Hanauma Bay are lined with lava rock ledges. When the waves are big or the ocean is rough, it can wash over these ledges, which are sometimes closed due to the dangerous conditions. The path to the west leads out to Hanauma Bay’s southern point and the chaotic waters of Witches Brew. From this area there is a good view of Koko Crater.
Walking along the lava ledge to the east leads to the spot known as Toilet Bowl, a pool in the lava that is connected to the bay’s waters by an underground tube in the lava. Some adventurous (if foolhardy) people enjoy the sudden change in water level as the water surges in and drains out, but this may be dangerous and is not recommended.
Hanauma Bay is one of the Hawaiian Islands’ most dangerous beaches, perhaps in part because it is one of the most popular beaches. Many people have died at Hanauma Bay, including two people who died near Witch’s Brew in July of 2002. Always check with lifeguards about water conditions. At the mouth of the bay is a potentially dangerous current known as the Moloka‘i Express.
[Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve, 808-396-4229, 7455 Kalaniana‘ole Highway (Hwy. 72), Honolulu, open daily except Tuesdays, 6am-7pm from April to October; 6am-6pm from November to March. Directions: From Waikīkī, take Kalaniana‘ole Highway (Hwy. 72) about 10 miles (16 km) east.]
Sandy Beach Park
The pounding shorebreak at Sandy Beach can be extremely dangerous, and many injuries have occurred there, including broken necks. This same dangerous shorebreak, however, also makes the beach popular among experienced body boarders as well as surfers. Sandy Beach is also a popular sunbathing beach with a wide stretch of golden sand.
Hālona Blowhole
Less than 2 miles (3.2 km) past Hanauma Bay is Hālona Blowhole, where water rushes into an underwater tunnel in the lava rock, sending seawater spouting up through a hole above. With each surge of the ocean waves against the shoreline, the air compressed into the tunnel lets out a roaring sound to accompany the erupting geyser of water. Hālona means “Peering place.”[24]
Below and to the right of the blowhole area is Hālona Cove, seen in the 1950s movie From Here to Eternity. Waves surge over Burt Lancaster and Deborah Kerr (as Sgt. Warden and his commanding officer’s wife) as the embracing lovers have an affair on the secluded beach.
Makapu‘u Point
Makapu‘u Point is located just over 1 mile (1.6 km) north of Sandy Beach (see above). The point reaches an elevation of about 647 feet (197 m) and is accessed parking off Kalaniana‘ole Highway (Hwy. 72) near the service road for the Makapu‘u Lighthouse. The walk in is about a 1 mile (1.6 km). Makapu‘u is O‘ahu’s easternmost point.
Just past the lighthouse access road is a roadside lookout over Makapu‘u Beach. This is a popular hang-gliding site. Offshore is an islet called Kāohikaipu (“hold back the container...so called because the rock blocked sea-swept matter”[25]). Behind Kāohikaipu is the larger Manana Island, also called Rabbit Island because it is home to many rabbits. Manana also provides habitat for native seabirds, including ‘ua‘u kani (Puffinus pacificus chlororhynchus, wedge-tailed shearwaters), which sometimes inhabit the same burrows as the rabbits.
Makapu‘u Beach, located across from Sea Life Park, is a popular bodysurfing beach—surfboards aren’t allowed. The currents and shorebreak at Makapu‘u Beach can be extremely dangerous during the winter months, and it is not a place for beginners. During summer, however, the beach becomes much more hospitable.
Sea Life Park
Sea Life Park is located just north of Makapu‘u Point, and features an 18-foot (5.5-m) deep, 300,000 gallon (1.1 million liter) aquarium full of a whole panoply of marine creatures, including reef fish, sharks, eels, and even sea turtles. A spiral ramp provides optimal viewing from different levels. The park also features dolphin performances, and has separate pools housing harbor seals and California sea lions.
A bird sanctuary area at Sea Life Park provides habitat for such native birds as mōlī (Diomedea immutabilis, Laysan albatross), ‘a (Sula sula rubripes, red-footed boobies), and ‘iwa (Fregata minor palmerstoni, great frigatebirds). A 38-foot (11.6-m) skeleton of a palaoa (Physeter macrocephalus, sperm whale) hangs from the park’s Whaling Museum.
[Sea Life Park, 808-259-7933, 41-202 Kalaniana‘ole Highway (Hwy. 72), Waimānalo, open 9:30-5 daily (Friday until 10 p.m., www.sealifeparkhawaii.com.]
Waimanalo
From Makapu‘u Point to Wailea Point, Waimanalo Bay extends for 5½ miles (9 km), making it O‘ahu’s longest continuous beach. Located along the bay are three beach parks, including: Waimanalo Beach Park, Waimanalo Bay Beach Park, and Bellows Field Beach Park. An offshore coral reef keeps the area somewhat protected from the surf.
At the northern end of Waimanalo Bay is Bellows Field Beach Park, located in front of Bellows Air Force Station. The beach park is only open to civilians during the weekends, from noon on Fridays until Monday at 8 a.m. Camping is also available, and permits are issued through the County Department of Parks and Recreation (808-523-4525).
Toward the middle of the shoreline of Waimanalo Bay is Waimanalo Bay Beach Park, and about 1 mile (1.6 km) south is Waimanalo Beach Park, a nice swimming area with a good view of the deeply furrowed Ko‘olau mountain range. Waimanalo Bay was seen regularly on the television series Magnum PI (it’s where Magnum often took his morning swim).
Pearl Harbor
U.S.S. Arizona Memorial
[Photograph: U.S.S. Arizona Memorial]
One of the Hawaiian Islands’ most visited attractions is Pearl Harbor’s U.S.S. Arizona Memorial, honoring those who died in the Dec. 7, 1941 Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor, an event that entered the United States into World War II.
The attack on Pearl Harbor by 350 Japanese bombers killed 2,335 United States soldiers. The attack also sunk or damaged eight huge American battleships along with three light cruisers, three destroyers, and four smaller ships. In all, 21 United States ships were damaged and 347 planes were destroyed.
1,177 men perished in the fiery sinking of the U.S.S. Arizona, which was at its moorings on Battleship Row and sunk in just nine minutes after being hit by a Japanese bomb. 2,323 United States military personnel died in the Pearl Harbor attack, along with 60 civilians. Another 1,178 people were wounded. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1941, Dec. 7.)
The U.S.S. Arizona Memorial is an open structure that is 184 feet (56 m) long, and positioned directly over the wreck of the U.S.S. Arizona. Nine hundred of the U.S.S. Arizona’s crew remain entombed in the sunken vessel. TheU.S.S. Arizona Memorial Museum includes a theater that provides information about the Pearl Harbor attack.
The architect of the U.S.S. Arizona Memorial was an Austrian named Alfred Preis who fled the Nazis in 1939 and later moved to the Hawaiian Islands. The creation of the Memorial was approved by President Dwight D. Eisenhower in 1958, and on Memorial Day in 1962 it was officially dedicated. Part of the funding for the Memorial came from an Elvis Presley benefit concert at Honolulu’s Bloch Arena. The concert raised about $64,000 toward the $500,000 cost of the shrine.
About 1.5 million visitors a year tour the U.S.S. Arizona Memorial, which was designated as a National Historical Landmark in 1989.
[U.S.S. Arizona Memorial Visitor Center, 808-422-2771; 422-0561; 1 Arizona Memorial Place, Pearl Harbor, Honolulu, www.nps.gov/usar, open 7:30-5 daily.]
U.S.S. Missouri
[Photograph: U.S.S. Missouri]
World War II ended after the United States dropped nuclear bombs on the Japanese cities of Hiroshima (August 6, 1945) and Nagasaki (August 9, 1945). The imminent defeat of Japan led to a celebration of “V-J Day” (Victory in Japan Day) on August 15, 1945. The forces of Japan officially surrendered on September 2, 1945 on the deck of the U.S.S. Missouri battleship, now known as “Mighty Mo.”
Originally launched in 1944, the U.S.S. Missouri was permanently decommissioned on March 31, 1992. Now open for public tours, the 58,000-ton (52,600-mton) ship is docked at Pearl Harbor’s Battleship Row, just a few hundred yards from the U.S.S. Arizona Memorial.
The U.S.S. Missouri had a 50-year career serving in World War II (in the battles of Iwo Jima and Okinawa), Korea, and Operation Desert Storm in the Persian Gulf in 1991. On August 20, 2001, the U.S.S. Missouri welcomed its one-millionth visitor. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1945, Aug. 14.)
[Battleship Missouri Memorial, 808-973-2494 (recording); 808-423-2263, 1 Arizona Memorial Drive, Pearl Harbor, Honolulu,www.ussmissouri.org, open daily 9-5.]
U.S.S. Bowfin Submarine Museum and Park
[Photograph: U.S.S. Bowfin Submarine]
The U.S.S. Bowfin submarine first launched one year after the 1941 attack on Pearl Harbor, and is one of just 15 remaining submarines from the World War II era. The submarine carried a crew of 80, and sank 44 ships in the Pacific Ocean.
A Memorial within the U.S.S. Bowfin Submarine Park honors the 3,500 submariners lost during the war along with 52 U.S. submarines. The Memorial pays tribute to the important role submarines played in defense of the United States.
Visitors may enter the U.S.S. Bowfin Submarine Museum and Park for free and view the Japanese suicide torpedo, called the Kaiten. It is also free to look through the periscopes. There is a fee for the submarine/museum tour, which includes boarding the U.S.S. Bowfin.
[U.S.S. Bowfin Submarine Museum and Park, 11 Arizona Memorial Drive, Pearl Harbor, Honolulu, 808-423-1341, open daily 8-5,www.bowfin.org.]
Keaīwa Heiau
Keaīwa Heiau State Recreation Area encompasses 334 acres (135 ha) above ‘Aiea north of Pearl Harbor. The terraced stone structure of Keaīwa Heiau is 160 feet (49 m) long by 100 feet (30 m) wide.
In ancient times, Keaīwa Heiau was used by kāhuna lapa‘au, respected ancient practitioners who used plants and other native and Polynesian-introduced resources to cure illnesses. Many of the plants used in traditional herbal medicines still grow in the area, and the site is respected by natives for its spiritual and healing energy.
According to Place Names of Hawaii (1974), “the heiau, probably medicinal, is said to have been built in the time of Kākuhihewa. The site was rededicated in 1951, but before that time, people had hauled away stones from the heaiu.”[26] Keaīwa is defined as “The mystery,” and “...said to be the name of an early priest and to refer to his mysterious healing powers.”[27]
‘Aiea Loop Trail is a 4½-mile (7.2-km) hiking trail that begins near the park’s restrooms. The scenic trail has views of the Ko‘olau Mountains and Lē‘ahi (Diamond Head), as well as Pearl Harbor below. Also visible along the trail’s eastern ridge is a C-47 cargo plane that wrecked there 1943.
[Keaīwa Heiau, 808-483-2511, ‘Aiea Heights Drive, open 7-sunset daily.]
Leeward O‘ahu
Leeward (western) O‘ahu extends from the ‘Ewa area at O‘ahu’s southwestern tip along the length of the Wai‘anae Coast up to Ka‘ena Point. The ‘Ewa area includes Kapolei, O‘ahu’s fastest growing town, as well as Barbers Point Naval Air Station, which is now demilitarized and dedicated to civilian uses.
Northeast of ‘Ewa is Waipahu, which was a prominent sugar plantation town until the mill closed in 1995. As one of the Hawaiian Island’s last plantation towns, Waipahu (“Bursting water”[28]) is a fitting place for Hawai‘i’s Plantation Village, a cultural theme park that features re-creations of typical plantation villages during the Hawaiian Islands’ sugarcane area. Separate villages represent eight different ethnic groups that immigrated to the Hawaiian Islands in the early 1900s, including Chinese, Portuguese, Puerto Rican, Japanese, Filipino, Okinawan, and Korean, as well as a Hawaiian hale (house).
[Hawai‘i’s Plantation Village, 808-667-0110, 94-695 Waipahu Street, Waipahu, open 9-4:30 Mon.-Fri.; 10-4:30 Sat.]
Wai‘anae Coast
The Wai‘anae Coast is located on O‘ahu’s extreme western side, which is also the dry, leeward side of the island. Many of O‘ahu’s residents moved to this arid region after fleeing their home villages when King Kamehameha invaded O‘ahu in 1795 (see Chapter 11, Timeline: 1795). Previously, the Wai‘anae Coast had been only sparsely populated.
Today the biggest town along the Wai‘anae Coast is Nānākuli, which houses one of the largest native Hawaiian populations in the Hawaiian Islands. The next largest town is Wai‘anae, with a beach park and protected harbor.
Mākaha, located on O‘ahu’s western shore, is the site of an ancient heiau (sacred place of worship) calledKānē‘ākī Heiau. Originally dedicated to Lono, the god of agriculture and fertility, Kānē‘ākī Heiau later became a luakini heiau, where human sacrifices were performed. It is said that King Kamehameha I used the heiau as a place of worship after he conquered O‘ahu in 1795.
Kānē‘ākī Heiau was restored by the Bishop Museum in 1970 using traditional materials, such as native pili grass(Heteropogon contortus, twisted beardgrass) and logs of ‘ohi‘a lehua (Metrosideros species), to create a drum house, prayer towers and sacred images.
Mākaha Beach is a renowned surfing spot from ancient days. In modern times, Mākaha Beach hosts the annual Buffalo’s Longboard Contest, which is run by the legendary Buffalo Kaulana. Further north is Mākua Beach, known for its friendly dolphins.
From Mākua Beach north is a long stretch of sandy beach called Keawa‘ula, which means “The red harbor,”[29]and is “...said to be named for numerous cuttlefish [mūhe‘e] that color the water.”[30] Keawa‘ula is more commonly known as Yokohama Beach, a name that originated during the plantation era when large numbers of Japanese immigrant laborers fished in the area. They came on the O‘ahu Railroad train, “...and so many of these fishermen came that the bay was called Yokohama Bay.”[31]
Farrington Highway (Hwy. 93) follows the length of the Wai‘anae Coast to Ka‘ena Point State Park, passing many white-sand beaches along the way.
[Wai‘anae Coast, Farrington Highway (Hwy. 93).]
The Windward Side—Makapu‘u to Kahuku
O‘ahu’s windward (eastern) side is nestled between the turquoise ocean and the steep, deeply furrowed mountains of the Ko‘olau Range. The windward coast is the wetter side of O‘ahu, and extends from Kahuku Point in the north to Makapu‘u Point in the south.
Kailua and Kāne‘ohe are the windward side’s two main towns. Tradewinds along this side of the island make it a popular place for sailing and windsurfing. Numerous offshore islets along this coast are preserved as bird sanctuaries. Some of these islets are accessible for recreational uses, while others are utilized for academic research purposes (seeMoku-o-Lo‘e below).
Kahuku Point / James Campbell National Wildlife Refuge
Kahuku Point is the spot where the north shore ends and the windward coast begins. Just south of Kahuku Point is the old sugarcane town of Kahuku, where the historic sugar mill has been converted into a shopping center. Much of the old mill’s machinery is now included in the shopping center’s decor.
Located north of Kahuku is O‘ahu’s largest refuge, the 164-acre (66-ha) James Campbell National Wildlife Refuge encompasses native wetland habitat for endangered wetland birds of the Hawaiian Islands, including the ae‘o (Himantopus mexicanus knudseni, Hawaiian black-necked stilt); ‘alae ke‘oke (Fulica americana alai, Hawaiian coot); koloa maoli (Anas wyvilliana, Hawaiian duck); and ‘alae ‘ula (Gallinula chloropus sandvicensis, Hawaiian moorhen).
Guided tours of the Refuge are given by reservation from August 1 to February 15, but during the rest of the year, when the stilts are breeding and nesting, public access is not allowed .
[James Campbell National Wildlife Refuge, 808-637-6330, 2 miles (3.2 km) north of Kahuku town. Guided public tours: Thurs: 4-5:30; Sat: 3-3:15.]
Mālaekahana State Recreation Area / Moku‘auia (Goat Island)
Just north of Lā‘ie is Mālaekahana State Recreation Area, which extends from Kalanai Point north to Makahoa Point. Mālaekahana Beach is usually safe for swimming and also popular for other water activities such as surfing and windsurfing.
Picnic facilities are available at Kalanai Point, and camping is allowed with a permit. At Makahoa Point, camping is allowed for a fee, and cabin rentals are also available.
Offshore of Mālaekahana State Recreation Area is Moku‘auia, also known as Goat Island, which may be accessed by swimming or snorkeling across the channel, or wading across at low tide. Check with the lifeguards to make sure conditions are safe. Moku‘auia means “Island to One Side.”[32]
[Mālaekahana State Recreation Area, 808-293-1736, Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. ) at Kalanai Point, Friends of Mālaekahana, , open until 6:30.]
Lā‘ie / Polynesian Cultural Center
Mormon missionaries first arrived in the Hawaiian Islands in 1850, establishing the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints in Lā‘ie, O‘ahu, and soon winning over large numbers of Hawaiians to their faith. In 1865 the Mormons purchased 6,000 acres (2,428 ha) of land in the Lā‘ie region.
In 1919, the Mormons in Lā‘ie used volcanic rocks and crushed coral to build a smaller version of the Mormon temple in Salt Lake City, Utah. Constructed at the base of the Ko‘olau Mountains, the church was dedicated in 1920, becoming the first Mormon temple built outside of the continental United States.
In 1955, the Mormons established the Church College of Hawai‘i in Lā‘ie. By 1971, Church College had about 1,300 students, many of whom came from various Pacific Islands. Then in 1974 the school became a branch campus of Provo, Utah’s Brigham Young University, a 4-year college with an enrollment of about 2,000 undergraduates. The Mormon temple is considered the “cornerstone” of the college.
Polynesian shows put on by the college in the 1950s led to the college’s construction of the Polynesian Cultural Center, which opened on October 12, 1963 in Lā‘ie. Founded by the Mormon Church, the Polynesian Cultural Center isrun by the college and staffed by students. Over the years the Center has expanded, including a major expansion in 1975, making the site a major O‘ahu attraction.
Today the Polynesian Cultural Center encompasses 42 acres (17 ha), including seven theme villages arranged around lagoons. The villages represent various cultures of Polynesia, including the Marquesas, Samoa, Fiji, New Zealand, Tahiti, Tonga, and the Hawaiian Islands. Each theme village has its own unique music, dances, and crafts.
Craft demonstrations and other activities are ongoing, including coconut cracking, tree climbing, and fire starting as well as participatory activities such as lei making and rope making. Also regularly scheduled at the Polynesian Cultural Center are shows and films including an IMAX theater that provides quality viewing. The park also features a replica of a typical mission house of the early 1800s. An event called the “Pageant of the Long Canoes” takes place aboard canoe stages on the lagoons.
A daily highlight at the Polynesian Cultural Center is the 90-minute post-dinner show, which includes erupting volcanoes and other special effects. About 900,000 people visit the Polynesian Cultural Center each year, making it O‘ahu’s second most visited attraction after the U.S.S. Arizona Memorial.
[Polynesian Cultural Center, 808-293-3333; 800-367-7060; 808-293-3005, 55-370 Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. 83), Lā‘ie, www.polynesia.com; 12:30-9, Mon.-Sat. Pageant: 2:30; Polynesian Show: 7:30-9.]
Punalu‘u Beach Park
Punalu‘u Beach is protected by an offshore reef providing a nice swimming area when the surf is not too big. Be cautious, however, as there may be strong currents, particularly offshore from the mouth of WAIONO Stream. Punalu‘u means “Coral dived for”[33]
[Punalu‘u Beach Park, just north of Kahana Bay.]
Kahana Valley and Bay / Huilua Fishpond
Kahana Valley is about 2 miles (3.2 km) wide and 4 miles (6.4 km) long. The valley is owned by the State of Hawai‘i, which bought it from the Robinson family in 1965. Kahana Valley is an intact Hawaiian ahupua‘a, a traditional Hawaiian land division that follows the natural watershed and extends from the mountains to the sea. Kahana means“Cutting.”[34]
In ancient days, Kahana Valley was extensively planted with kalo (Colocasia esculenta, taro), and in recent years numerous important archeological sites have been located throughout the valley. Kahana Valley was planted in sugarcane in the early 1900s and the upper valley was used for military training during World War II. The lower valley is now home to about 30 Hawaiian families.
Huilua Fishpond is located on Kahana Bay and fed by freshwater springs. The fishpond is said to have been built by the legendary ancient race of people known as menehune (see Menehune section, Chapter 3). According to Hawaiian legend, the fishpond “...was connected by an underground passage dug by a shark to a pond at Kualoa Point, as fish sometimes appear and disappear and are believed to escape at the Kualoa pond.”[35] Huilua means “Twice joined.”[36]
[Kahana State Park, 808-237-7766, Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. 83) at Kahana Bay.]
Crouching Lion
According to ancient Hawaiian legend, this rock was a Tahitian demigod named Kupua, who was a relative of the volcano goddess Pele. Kupua was said to have been caught in a jealous fight between Pele and her sister Hi‘iaka. The modern name comes from the rock’s resemblance to a crouching lion.
[Crouching Lion, just north of Ka‘a‘wa, north of Mile Marker 27.]
Ka‘a‘awa
The tiny town of Ka‘a‘awa is located just south of Crouching Lion. Fronted by a stone wall is Swanzy Beach Park on 1.5 acres (.6 ha) land donated by Mrs. F. M. (Julie Judd) Swanzy in 1921.
Senator Fong’s Plantation Gardens
The gardens encompass 725 acres (293 ha), and may be viewed by a narrated 45-minute long tram ride through five separate valleys. These well-maintained gardens include 100 varieties of nuts and fruits. The gardens are owned by former United States Senator Hiram Fong, who served that office until his retirement in 1977.
[Senator Fong’s Plantation Gardens, 808-239-6775, 47-285 Pūlama Road, open 10-4 daily. Directions: 1 mile (1.6 km) off Kahekili Highway (Hwy. 83).
Kahalu‘u “diving place”****[37]****
Byodo-In / Valley of the Temples Memorial Park
Byodo-In, the “Temple of Equality,” is a replica of a 900-year-old temple in Uji, Japan. Dedicated in 1968 and symbolic of the mythical phoenix, the temple was built to commemorate the 100th anniversary of Japanese immigration to the Hawaiian Islands.
Nestled beneath the Ko‘olau Range, the vermilion temple houses a 9-foot (2.7-m) tall Buddha lacquered with gold and sitting on a lotus. The site also features a 3-ton (2.7-mton) brass bell that is said to bring peace and good luck to those who ring it. The park’s landscaping includes meditative gardens and a pond with golden koi (carp). Bridges cross over the water, and peacocks roam the grounds. The park also has a gift shop.
[Byodo-In / Valley of the Temples Memorial Park, 808-239-8811, 47-200 Kahekili Highway (Hwy. 83). Directions: Located off Kahekili Highway (Hwy. 83), 1½ miles (2.4 km) north of Ha‘ikū Road.]
Kāne‘ohe
Kāne‘ohe is O‘ahu’s fourth largest city, and Kāne‘ohe Bay is the largest bay in the Hawaiian Islands, stretching from Kualoa Point 7 miles (11 km) south down to Mōkapu Peninsula. Kāne‘ohe means “Bamboo husband,”[38] a name said to originate when “...a woman compared her husband’s cruelty to the cutting edge of a bamboo knife.”[39]
Offshore of Kane‘ohe Bay is Moku-o-Lo‘e, or Coconut Island, perhaps best known for being shown in the opening of the television series Gilligan’s Island.
In ancient times, Moku-o-Lo‘e was often visited by ali‘i (royalty), including Princess Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop(see Chapter 11, Timeline: 1831: Dec. 9), who planted many niu (Cocos nucifera, coconut palms). This led to the island’s common name, Coconut Island. Today Coconut Island is home to the University of Hawai‘i’s Institute of Marine Biology.
Kualoa Regional Park encompasses 153 acres (62 ha) on Kualoa Point. The beach is quite scenic as it is set beneath the cliff called Palikū (“Vertical cliff”[40]). The 3-acre (1.2-ha) Apua Pond on Kualoa Point provides wetland habitat for endangered species such as the ae‘o (Himantopus mexicanus knudseni, Hawaiian black-necked stilt). On the southwest side of Kualoa Point is Mōli‘i Fishpond.
Offshore from Kualoa in Kāne‘ohe Bay is Mokoli‘i, also called Chinaman’s Hat. Mokoli‘i means “Little mo‘o,”[41] (“Little lizard”). According to Hawaiian legend, “...the lizard Moko-li‘i was destroyed by the goddess Hi‘iaka; its tail became the islet, its body the flat area near the old sugar mill.”[42]
Another Hawaiian legend of Mokoli‘i was stated in an account written by Abraham Fornander (see Appendix 2): “a hero, Ka‘ulu, grabbed the teeth of Moko-li‘i, an evil supernatural who preyed on passers-by, and flew into the sky with him; Moko-li‘i fell down and broke into pieces.”[43] The site’s Hawaiian name Papāle Pākē (Hawaiian for “China Hat”) only came into use after many Chinese arrived in the Hawaiian Islands to work on sugar plantations.
Three of the five remaining ancient loko ‘ia (fishponds) on O‘ahu are found on Kāne‘ohe Bay. The two other fishponds are located in Kahana Bay and near Pearl Harbor. The largest of Kāne‘ohe Bay’s fishponds is at He‘eia State Park, where scenes from Karate Kid 2 were filmed. The 88-acre (36-ha) He‘eia Fishpond is enclosed by a 5,000-foot (1,524-m) wall.
Set atop Kealohi Point, He‘eia State Park provides great views of the He‘eia Fishpond as well as He‘eia-Kea Harbor. According to legend, “...during a battle with people from Leeward O‘ahu, a tidal wave is said to have he‘e ‘ia (washed) the natives out to sea and back, after which they were victorious, thus fulfilling a prophecy. In ancient times, souls were judged here and divided into two groups: the white, who went to He‘eia-kea, and the black, who went to He‘eia-uli.”[44]
[He‘eia State Park, 808-247-3156, Kealohi Point, Kāne‘ohe Bay, open 7:30-6:30 daily.]
Ho‘omaluhia Botanical Garden
Ho‘omaluhia is O‘ahu’s largest botanical garden, encompassing more than 400 acres (162 ha) above Kāne‘ohe. The park’s many rare and endangered tropical plants are grouped by area of origin. A 32-acre (13-ha) reservoir is accessible by the park’s hiking trails.
A visitor center at Ho‘omaluhia Botanical Garden includes exhibits about native plants and animals of the Hawaiian Islands as well as the park’s history—it was built by the United States Army Corp of Engineers to protect the region below against floods. Ho‘omaluhia means “To cause or give peace, protect; to arbitrate between warring parties.”[45]
[Ho‘omaluhia Botanical Garden, 808-233-7323, 45-680 Luluku Road, Kāne‘ohe. Directions: Take Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. 83) to Luluku Road 2¼ miles (3.6 km) north of Pali Highway intersection. Take Luluku Road 1½ miles (2.4 km) to the park entrance, open 9-4 daily; guided hikes Sat. at 10, Sun. at 1.]
Ulupō Heiau / Kawainui Marsh
The stones of Ulopō Heiau extend for a length of about 180 feet (55 m) and are up to 30 feet (9 m) high. Ulopō, which means “Night Inspiration,”[46] is thought to have been a luakini heiau, where human sacrifices were performed.
Visible from the trail near the top of Ulopō Heiau is the Kawainui Marsh. A fishpond in ancient times, Kawainui was planted with rice during the 1900s. Today it is once again a wetland area providing valuable native habitat for endangered waterbirds of the Hawaiian Islands, including ae‘o (Himantopus mexicanus knudseni, Hawaiian black-necked stilt); ‘alae ke‘oke (Fulica americana alai, Hawaiian coot); koloa maoli (Anas wyvilliana, Hawaiian duck); and ‘alae ‘ula (Gallinula chloropus sandvicensis, Hawaiian moorhen).
[Ulupō Heiau, 1 mile (1.6 km) south of Kailua Road. Directions: From Honolulu, drive up Pali Highway to Uloa Street (the first left after Highway 72 junction); then turn right on Manu Aloha Street, then right on Manuoo Street. Ulupō Heiau is behind the YMCA.]
Kailua / Kailua Bay
In ancient times, Kailua was home to ali‘i (royalty) and chiefs, and several heiau (sacred places of worship) were located in this region. Today Kailua is a small town of about 36,000, though it is still the largest town on O‘ahu’s windward side. Kailua is lined with great beaches, including Kailua Beach Park at the southeast side of Kailua Bay.
O‘ahu’s main windsurfing spot, Kailua Bay is also popular among various other water sports enthusiasts as well as sunbathers and beach walkers. Kailua means “Two seas”[47]
The North Shore
Hale‘iwa
Hale‘iwa is known as the “gateway” to O‘ahu’s north shore. The main street through Hale‘iwa’s is Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. 83). The arched Rainbow Bridge spans over the Anahulu River, which passes alongside the boat harbor that is bordered on each side by beach parks.
The North Shore Surf & Cultural Museum is located in the North Shore Marketplace, and exhibits vintage surfboards as well as photographs and videos about surfing.
Three beach parks in this area include Kaiaka Bay Beach Park located on Kaiaka Bay, just west of Hale‘iwa is a nice picnic area but not so good for swimming. Hale‘iwa Ali‘i Beach Park is a popular surfing area and the site of numerous surfing contests. Encompassing 20 acres (8 ha) of Waialua Bay. Lifeguards are stationed at Hale‘iwa Beach Park.
On the north side of Waialua Bay is Hale‘iwa Beach Park, generally a good swimming area due to the protection provided by a breakwater. The county park has volleyball, basketball, and baseball facilities as well as a nice view of Ka‘ena Point.
[North Shore Surf & Cultural Museum, 808-637-8888, 66-250 Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. 83), open 11-6 daily (hours vary).]
Mokulē‘ia Beach
Mokulē‘ia Beach spans about 6 miles (10 km) from Kaiaka Bay to Ka‘ena Point. Kaiaka means “Shadowed sea,”[48] and Ka‘ena means “The heat.”[49]
Also located in this area is Dillingham Airfield, commonly used by skydivers and glider enthusiasts. Across from Dillingham Airfield is Mokulē‘ia Beach Park, with a large grassy area as well as picnic facilities. This is a popular windsurfing area.
[Mokulē‘ia, Farrington Highway (Hwy. 930); Dillingham Airfield, 68-760 Farrington Highway (Hwy. 930), Mokulē‘ia.]
Waialua
Just south of Hale‘iwa is the former sugar plantation town of Waialua. The Waialua Sugar Mill closed its doors in 1996, becoming the last of O‘ahu’s sugar mills to shut down operations. The old Waialua Sugar Mill building now serves the region’s burgeoning coffee industry.
Waimea
In ancient times the Waimea region was heavily populated, and Waimea Valley was planted with kalo (Colocasia esculenta, taro) as well as other Polynesian-introduced and native food crops.
At an elevation of about 300 feet (91 m) above Waimea town is Pu‘u-o-mahuka (“Hill of escape”[50]), O‘ahu’s largest heiau. Pu‘u-o-mahuka’s terraced stone walls overlook Waimea Valley and Waimea Bay as well as the coastline stretching to Ka‘ena Point in the distance.
Pu‘u-o-mahuka was a luakini heiau, where human sacrifices were performed. The terraced, stacked stone walls of Pu‘u-o-mahuka are now just a couple of feet high, and form three adjoining enclosures that span a total of more than 550 feet (168 m).
According to Place Names of Hawaii (1974), the heiau is “...credited to Menehune, and a place where chiefesses gave birth. It was probably at this heiau that three of Vancouver’s crewmen were offered in sacrifice in 1794. The images here are said to have been destroyed by order of Kamehameha II (Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho) in 1819.”[51] Pu‘u-o-mahuka Heiau is now designated as a National Historic Landmark.
Waimea Bay Beach Park on beautiful Waimea Bay is one of the north shore’s most popular beaches, and famous for its giant winter waves. Swimming and snorkeling is good during the summer months, but for much of the year the waters of Waimea Bay are for the experienced only. (See Eddie Aikau section, Chapter 3).
Located across from Waimea Bay Beach Park is Waimea Falls Park, a cultural theme park and botanical garden that includes about 6,000 species of plants, many of them rare and endangered, and arranged by theme along a trail leading to a waterfall up Waimea Valley. Also located in the park are ancient Hawaiian archaeological sites as well as modern replicas of traditional thatched structures. Hula, cliff diving, and Hawaiian games are featured at the park.
Pūpūkea Beach Park is a lava rock and white sand beach located along Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. 83). Pūpūkea means “White shell.”[52] The waters offshore of Pūpūkea Beach Park are designated as a Marine Life Conservation District.
Shark’s Cove is on the north side of Pūpūkea Beach Park while the middle area is known as Old Quarry, where jagged rocks and tidepools are exposed at low tide. Rock ledges rise above the sea’s surface at Three Tables, on the south side of the park. Three Tables is a great snorkeling and diving spot when the water is calm during summer months. Restroom facilities are located in front of Old Quarry.
[Pu‘u-o-mahuka Heiau—Directions: Turn mauka (toward the mountains) off Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. 83) in Waimea at Pūpūkea Rd. (Foodland market is on the corner); go up about ½-mile (.8 km); a sign marks the turnoff to the heiau; drive another ¾ mile (1.2 km) to the heiau.]
[Pūpūkea Beach Park, Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. 83).]
[Waimea Falls Park, 808-638-8511, 59-864 Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. 83), open 10-5:30 daily.]
‘Ehukai Beach Park / Banzai Pipeline
‘Ehukai Beach is best known as the site of the Banzai Pipeline surf break, located at the southern end of the park. Pipeline’s hollow-breaking waves are world renown for their large size and tubular shape. Some of the best surfers in the world come to Pipeline each year to compete. ‘Ehukai means “Sea spray.”[53]
[‘Ehukai Beach Park, Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. 83); enter across from Sunset Beach Elementary School.]
Sunset Beach Park
Sunset Beach is a legendary big-wave surfing spot, and also a nice white-sand beach for sunbathing (though the sand may get a bit steep during the winter months). The point at the northern end of Sunset Beach is known as Backyards, and is a popular windsurfing spot.
Lifeguards are stationed at Sunset Beach, and restrooms and showers are available. Nearshore currents along the beach may be dangerous to casual swimmers, so always check with the lifeguards before venturing into the water, especially during the winter months when the surf is biggest.
[Sunset Beach Park, Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. 83).]
Kawela Bay
Kawela means “The heat.”[54]
[Kawela Bay, off Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. 83).]
Kaihalulu Point
Kaihalulu means “Roaring sea.”[55]
Central O‘ahu
Wahiawā Botanical Garden
Wahiawā Botanical Garden is a city park encompassing 27 acres (11 ha), with hiking trails and at least 60 varieties of stately old trees. The park also has a notable fern collection.
The park had its origins in the 1920s when the Hawai‘i Sugar Planters’ Association used the site for forestry experiments. Wahiawā means “Place of noise.”[56]
[Wahiawā Botanical Garden, 808-621-7321, 1396 California Avenue, Wahiawā, 1 mile (1.6 m) east of Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. 80), open 9-4 daily.]
Kolekole Pass
Kolekole Pass reaches an elevation of 1,724 feet (525 m) and is located above Schofield Barracks. Japanese fighter planes flew through Kolekole Pass on December 7, 1941 to attack Pearl Harbor, an event that entered the United States into World War II. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1941, Dec. 7.)
[Kolekole Pass, Central O‘ahu. Directions: Enter Foote Gate just south of Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. 99) on Kunia Road (Hwy. 750). Take first left (Road A), then the first right (Lyman Road).]
Kaua‘i
The Garden Isle
Part I: Overview, and Cultural / Historical Sites and Attractions
Overview of Kaua‘i
Land Area: 552.3 square miles (1,430.5 sq. km).
Size Comparison: 4th largest Hawaiian Island.
Island Emblem: Mokihana—Fruit of Mokihana (Pelea anisata).
Highest Elevation: 5,243 feet (1,598 m), at the summit of Mt. Kawaikini.
Official Nickname: The Garden Isle.
Island Color: Purple
KAUA‘I MINI-DIRECTORY
Kaua‘i Chamber of Commerce, 808-245-7363, www.kauaichamber.org.
Kaua‘i Visitors Bureau, 808-245-3971, www.kauaivisitorsbureau.com; [email protected].
Kaua‘i Visitor Information, 800-262-1400.
County of Kaua‘i Office of Tourism, www.Kauai-hawaii.com.
State Camping Permits, 808-274-3444, www.state.hi.us/dlnr/dsp/dsp.html.
County Camping Permits, 808-241-6660, www.kauaigov.org/parks.htm.
[Illustration: Map—Kaua‘i]
Kaua‘i is the oldest of the eight main Hawaiian Islands, having formed about five million years ago. The age of the island accounts for its many stunning features, from the deeply carved valleys of Waimea Canyon to the steep cliffs and spires of the Nāpali Coast.
Kaua‘i is about 33 miles (53 km) long and 25 miles (40 km) wide, with about 90 miles (145 km) of coastline, including the most beach per mile of coastline of any of the eight main Hawaiian Islands. Kaua‘i is known for its scenic, rugged mountains as well as its pristine, white-sand beaches.
Kaua‘i is also known for resisting the rule of King Kamehameha I long after he conquered the other Hawaiian Islands. In 1810, Kaua‘i’s paramount ruler, King Kaumuali‘i, ceded the island of Kaua‘i to King Kamehameha to avoid impending war against Kamehameha’s powerful army.
King Kamehameha had twice earlier attempted to invade Kaua‘i, but was not successful (see Chapter 11, Timeline: 1796, April; 1804.) An ancient proverb tells of Kaua‘i’s warriors: “O Kaua‘i nui moku lehua, ‘āina nui makekau,”(“Great Kaua‘i, isle of warriors and land of men ever on the defense”).[57]
Today Kaua‘i has a resident population of about 58,000 people. The island’s major industry is tourism, but agricultural enterprises also bring significant income. Kaua‘i’s main agricultural products are sugarcane, coffee, papaya, pineapple, guava, and tropical flowers.
The 5,148-foot (1,569-m) summit of Kaua‘i’s Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale is one of the rainiest spots in the world. The single rainiest year on record was in 1982 when 681 inches (1,730 cm) of rain were recorded at the mountain’s peak.
Wai‘ale‘ale’s average annual rainfall is 451 inches (1,146 cm), the highest in the world. This annual average rainfall exceeds even India’s Cherrapunji Village, which received 905 inches (2,299 cm) of rainfall in 1861, but has an average annual rainfall of just 428 inches (1,087 cm).
Scientists think Wai‘ale‘ale’s actual rainfall may be even more than 451 inches (1,146 cm), because researchers have seen the high winds at the summit blow the rain nearly horizontally over the gauges. Automated gauges atop Wai‘ale‘ale now relay weather information via satellite.
Annual Kaua‘i Events include:
Ø Waimea Town Celebration (February, 335-2824)
Ø Kaua‘i Marathon (March, 826-6244)
Ø Prince Kūhiō Celebration of the Arts (March, 742-3770)
Ø Banana Poka Festival (May)
Ø Kaua‘i Hula Exhibition (June, 335-6466)
Ø Kōloa Plantation Days Celebration (July, www.koloaplantationdays.com)
Ø Kaua‘i Polynesian Festival (August, http://kauaipolynesianfestival.50megs.com)
Ø Kaua‘i Mokihana Festival (September, www.kauai.net/mokihana)
Ø Eōe Emmalani I Alaka‘i Festival (October, 335-9975)
Ø PGA Grand Slam of Golf (December, www.pga.com)
Kaua‘i
Cultural / Historical Sites and Attractions
Līhu‘e
Kaua‘i Museum
Kaua‘i Historical Society
Grove Farm Homestead Plantation Museum
Nāwiliwili Bay and Harbor / Kalapakī Bay
Nāwiliwili Park
Kalapakī Beach
Ninini Point Lighthouse
Ahukini Recreation Pier State Park
Alekoko (Menehune) Fishpond
Kilohana
Southern Kaua‘i
Knudsen Gap / Tree Tunnel
Mt. Kāhili
Hā‘upu Ridge (Hoary Head)
Kōloa
Kōloa Heritage Trail
Po‘ipū
Po‘ipū Beach
Po‘ipū Beach Park
Nukumoi Point
Brennecke’s Beach
Wai‘ōhi Beach (Po‘ipū Beach)
Moir Gardens
Prince Kūhiō Park / Hō‘ai Heiau
Prince Kūhiō Monument
Spouting Horn
National Tropical Botanical Garden—McBryde Garden / Allerton Garden
National Tropical Botanical Garden Visitor Center
Shipwreck Beach (Keoniloa Bay)
Makawehi Point
Māhā‘ulepū Beach and Coastline
Kawailoa Bay
Lāwa‘i
The 88 Places of Kobo Daishi
Kalāheo
Kukuiolono Park
Hanapēpē / Port Allen
Kaua‘i Coffee Museum and Visitor Center
Hanapēpē Valley Overlook
Salt Ponds
Eastern Kaua‘i
Lydgate Beach Park
Kamalani Playground
Nukoli‘i Beach
Wailua
Important Cultural Sites of Wailuanuiaho‘ano
Hauloa Heiau
Hikina-a-ka-lā
Na Ki‘i Pōhaku
Alakukui Point
Kukui Heiau
Māla‘e Heiau
Holoholokū Heiau
Bellstone
Poli‘ahu Heiau
Wailua River / Wailua Falls
Fern Grotto
Smith’s Tropical Paradise
‘Ōpaeka‘a Falls
Kamūkila Hawaiian Village
Keāhua Arboretum
Nounou Ridge (Sleeping Giant)
Kapa‘a
Kapa‘a Beach Park
Keālia Beach
Anahola
Hōkū‘alele
Kalalea (Kong Mountain)
Larsen’s Beach
Northern Kaua‘i
Na ‘Āina Kai Botanical Garden
Guava Kai Plantation
Kīlauea Town
Christ Memorial Episcopal Church
Kīlauea Point Lighthouse
Kīlauea Point National Wildlife Refuge
Mōkōlea Point
Crater Hill
Moku‘ae‘ae Islet
Albatross Tagging Project
Native Bird Species seen at Kīlauea Point National Wildlife Refuge
Kauapea Beach (Secret Beach)
Kalihiwai Bay
Kalihiwai Beach
‘Anini
Princeville Airport
Princeville
Princeville Resort
Queen’s Bath
Hanalei Valley
Hanalei Valley Lookout
Hanalei Bridge
Hanalei Town
Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church
Wai‘oli Mission Hall
Wai‘oli Church Belfry
Wai‘oli Mission House
Hanalei Poi Company
Hanalei Pier
Hanalei Bay
Black Pot Beach Park
Lumaha‘i
Wainiha
Wainiha Powerhouse Road
Hā‘ena
Mākua (Tunnels) Beach
National Tropical Botanical Garden—Limahuli
North Shore Caves
Manini-holo
Waikapala‘e (Blue Room)
Wai-a-kanaloa Cave
Kē‘ē Beach / Hā‘ena State Park
Hula Heiau
Ka-ulu-Paoa
Ka-ulu-o-Laka
Kilioe
Northwest Kaua‘i—The Nāpali Coast
Ahupua‘a in the Moku of Nāpali
Hanakāpī‘ai Beach
The Nāpali Coast
The Story of Ko‘olau, Pi‘ilani, and Kaleimanu in Kalalau Valley
Southwestern Kaua‘i
Waimea Town / Waimea Bay
Captain James Cook Monument
Hofgaard Park
Lucy Wright Beach Park
First Hawaiian Bank
Waimea Theatre
Waimea Christian and Hawaiian Foreign Church
Menehune Ditch (Kīkī-a-Ola)
Fort Elizabeth
Barking Sands Airfield & Pacific Missile Range
Barking Sands Beach
Major’s Bay
Polihale State Park
Queen’s Pond
Waimea Canyon / Kōke‘e State Park
Pu‘u-ka-Pele Lookout
Pu‘u-hinahina Lookout
Alaka‘i Swamp
Kōke‘e Natural History Museum
Kalalau Lookout
Pu‘u-o-Kila Lookout
Pihea Trail
Kilohana Overlook
Awa‘awapuhi Trail
Nu‘alolo Trail
Lolo Vista Point
Kaua‘i
Cultural / Historical Sites and Attractions
Līhu‘e
Līhu‘e is Kaua‘i’s county seat, and home to various county offices as well as the island’s main airport. Līhu‘e is also Kaua‘i’s commercial center, and home to the island’s main harbor at Nāwiliwili Bay.
Līhu‘e’s rise as a population center began in 1837 when Kaua‘i’s Governor Kaikio‘ewa moved his capital from Waimea to Līhu‘e to begin planting sugarcane. In 1849, the Līhu‘e Plantation was established, and milling began in 1851. Nāwiliwili Harbor opened in 1930, and the Līhu‘e Airport opened in 1950. Līhu‘e means “Cold chill.”[58]
Līhu‘e’s main thoroughfare is Rice Street, the location of the War Memorial & Convention Center, the Līhu‘e Shopping Center, and the Kaua‘i Museum. Kaua‘i Community College is located just off Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50)near Puhi.
The Kaua‘i Museum is located on Rice Street in the impressive former town library building, which is notable for its stately Greco-Roman (Greek Revival) facade. The museum displays many ancient Hawaiian (and Kauaian) artifacts with information about Hawaiian history and culture. Photographs show Kaua‘i’s post-contact period including the eras of rice and sugarcane. A gift shop sells books and a variety of other items.
Just next door is the Kaua‘i Historical Society, another repository of cultural and historical information. Membership in the Historical Society is open to the public, allowing access to manuscripts and photos.
Heading east on Rice Street leads to two sizeable shopping complexes, Harbor Mall and Anchor Cove, as well asKalapakī Beach (see below).
[Līhu‘e, Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56) and Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50).]
[Kaua‘i Museum, 4428 Rice Street, Līhu‘e, 808-245-6931, 9-4 M-F, 10-4 Sat., www.kauaimuseum.org.]
[Kaua‘i Historical Society, 808-245-3373, 4396 Rice Street, Suite 101, Līhu‘e, appointment required. Mailing address: P.O. Box1778, Līhu‘e, HI, 96766, www.kauaihistoricalsociety.org.]
Grove Farm Homestead Plantation Museum
Grove Farm is located just south of Līhu‘e and just north of Nāwiliwili Harbor. Grove Farm’s 80-acre (32-ha) living museum includes the original relatively sparse 1864 cottage of George Norton Wilcox, and the two-story main house that George provided for his brother Sam and his family. The main house was later home to George’s niece, Mabel Wilcox, who established the museum at Grove Farm in the 1970s. The home features floors made from the native ‘ōhi‘a lehua (Metrosideros species) as well as a staircase fashioned from koa (Acacia koa).
George Norton Wilcox was the second son of pioneering Wai‘oli missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox who served at Wai‘oli on Kaua‘i’s north shore from 1846 to 1869 (see Hanalei below). The original Grove Farm home was built in 1864, was later the home of Mabel Wilcox, the niece of George Norton Wilcox.
Notable features at Grove Farm include the plantation home estate’s period furniture and Hawaiian quilts. The tour includes the plantation cottage as well as a guest house, workers quarters, tropical gardens as well as orchards and pasture land. Tours are given by reservation only.
[Grove Farm Homestead, 808-245-3202, Nāwiliwili Road, Līhu‘e, tours M,W,Th 10 and 1, by reservation. Directions: Look for a small sign marking the entrance on the north (Līhu‘e) side of Nāwiliwili Road (Hwy. 58) about 1¼ miles (2 km) from Nāwiliwili Harbor.]
Nāwiliwili Bay and Harbor / Kalapakī Bay
Nāwiliwili Bay at the south end of Līhu‘e is Kaua‘i’s major deep-water port and commercial harbor. A long breakwater protects the port, which is used by fishing boats, whale-watching boats, cruise ships, container ships, and United States Navy vessels. On New Year’s Eve in 1941, a Japanese submersible shelled the area. Nāwiliwili Park is located on the north side of Nāwiliwili Bay.
Kalapakī Beach is located adjacent to Nāwiliwili Harbor, and in front of the Kaua‘i Lagoons Resort, which boasts of having the largest swimming pool in the Hawaiian Islands. Kalapakī’s gentle surf and a sandy bottom make it a popular swimming beach.
[Nāwiliwili Harbor, Wa‘apā Road, Līhu‘e.]
Ninini Point Lighthouse
Ninini Point Lighthouse was constructed in 1932 at the north end of Nāwiliwili Bay. The lighthouse is 86 feet (26 m) tall, and rises to 118 feet (36 m) above sea level. Next to the lighthouse is the remaining stone foundation of the lightkeeper’s guest quarters. The visibility of the lighthouse beacon extends for 17 miles (27 km). Ninini means“Pour.”[59]
Exiting from the lighthouse area by the right fork in the road (just after the parking area) leads to Ahukini Recreation Pier State Park, located at the south end of Hanamā‘ulu Bay. The breakwater and pier were constructed in the 1920s by sugar plantation owners, and were used until 1945 when a breakwater was constructed at Nāwiliwili, which then became Kaua‘i’s primary port.
The pier at Ahukini was taken down in 1978, and all that remains are cement pillars and the old framework, and a wooden walkway is now used by local fishermen. Hanamā‘ulu Bay Beach Park, located at the head of Hanamā‘ulu Bay, is a deep bay partially protected by a boulder breakwater.
[Ninini Point Lighthouse, north end of Nāwiliwili Bay. Directions: Take turnoff from Kapule Highway (Hwy. 51) between Rice Street and Ahukini Road (Hwy. 570), which leads to Līhu‘e Airport. The turnoff, about ½-mile (.8 km) south of Ahukini Road, goes around the golf course and then turns to dirt after about 2 miles (3.2 km), ending at the Ninini Point Lighthouse.]
Alekoko (Menehune) Fishpond / Hulē‘ia National Wildlife Refuge
The Alekoko Fishpond, commonly called Menehune Fishpond, is located just above Nāwiliwili Harbor on a bend in the Hulē‘ia Stream. Constructed of earth and faced with stone, the 900-foot (274-m) levee was built for the purpose of trapping and raising fish.
The walls of Alekoko Fishpond are about 4 feet (1.2 m) thick and 5 feet (1.5 m) high. In the 1800s, two of the three gaps in the levee were filled in by rice farmers.
Building the massive Alekoko Fishpond was a remarkable engineering feat that is attributed to the legendary ancient race of people known as menehune (see Menehune section, Chapter 3). The huge aquaculture facility is said to have been built in a single moonlit night by a 25-mile (40-km) long, double row of menehune who passed rocks to each other all the way from the source of the stones, the Makaweli Quarry in Waimea. Makaweli means “Fearful features.”[60]
Hulē‘ia National Wildlife Refuge encompasses 238 acres (96 ha) and was established in 1973. The Refuge, which is not open to the public, provides habitat for numerous endangered Hawaiian waterbirds, including stilts, coots, and ducks. The valley was the site of scenes in Raiders of the Lost Ark, including an opening scene escape by Indiana Jones. A small lookout can be reached by going ½-mile (.8 km) up Hulemalū Road.
[Alekoko (Menehune Fishpond). Directions: Take Nāwiliwili Road (Hwy. 58) or Kapule Highway (Hwy. 51) to Wa‘apā Road (which becomes Hulemalū Road) to the Overlook.]
Kilohana
Located just west of Līhu‘e, on the mauka (mountain) side of Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50), Kilohana Plantation Estates’ 16,000-square-foot (1,486-sq.-m) Tudor mansion was built in 1935 in the English country house tradition.
The home was designed by renowned architect Mark Potter for Gaylord Parke Wilcox and his wife Ethel. Gaylord and Ethel Wilcox moved to Kaua‘i from Honolulu in 1936 when Gaylord took over the management of Grove Farm Plantation (see above).
Considered Kaua‘i’s first “mansion,” Kilohana was the most expensive home on the island at the time it was built. Gaylord and Ethel Wilcox had the new house constructed after tearing down the previous home on the site. The old home was owned by Albert Spencer Wilcox and his wife Emma Napoleon Mahelona, who lived there from 1896 to 1935. Albert had purchased the land from the Līhu‘e Plantation when he worked as their manager.
After construction was finished, the Wilcox’s furnished the home with a large order from the high-class Gump’s store of San Francisco, and many of these furnishings remain in the home. The self-sufficient Kilohana estate included a cattle ranch and a dairy herd as well as a milking shed, piggery, poultry house, carriage house, and horse stables. The estate also grew vegetables, taro, coffee, and various flowers.
Kilohana became a commercial venture in 1985 with the opening of Gaylord’s Restaurant, a garden courtyard restaurant. Various shops on the site sell local arts and crafts and specialty items. On display at the 35-acre (14-ha) site are rare Hawaiian artifacts as well as historic cottages, flower gardens, and agricultural exhibits.
Carriage rides pulled by Clydesdales allow tours of the estate’s grounds, including the gardens, livestock, and buildings that once housed workers for the plantation. There is also a Sugarcane History Tour carriage ride, and a weekly lū‘au (traditional Hawaiian feast).
[Kilohana Plantation Estates, 808-245-5608, 3-2087 Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50), Līhu‘e; located between Kukui Grove Shopping Center and Kaua‘i Community College, 1.5 miles (2.4 km) west of Līhu‘e on mauka side (mountain) side of Kaumuali‘i Highway. Open 9:30-9:30, Mon-Sat.; 9:30-5, Sun. Clydesdales horse-drawn carriage tour: 11-6:00, Mon.-Sat: 11-5 Sun. Sugarcane history tour: 246-9529; Historic high tea: Mon. and Sat. at 2 p.m. by reservation; Lū‘au: Tues, Thurs, 5 p.m.; [email protected].]
Southern Kaua‘i
Knudsen Gap / Tree Tunnel
Going south from Līhu‘e between Mile Markers 6 and 8, Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50) travels through Knudsen Gap, between Mt. Kāhili and Hā‘upu Ridge (also called Hoary Head). The 3,089-foot (942-m) peak of Mt. Kāhili is the end of a ridge that extends all the way from the center of Kaua‘i. The Knudsen Gap gets its name from Norwegian immigrant Valdemar Knudsen, a sugar planter who owned property in the area.
A turnoff on Maluhia Road (Hwy. 520) leads south to Kōloa town. Just off of Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50) on Maluhia Road is the mile long Tree Tunnel, a double row of eucalyptus trees that were planted in 1911 as part of a community effort led by Alexander McBryde. The trees were donated by Walter Duncan McBryde in the early 1900s, and planted by local residents.
Kōloa
Kōloa was once Kaua‘i’s main port of entry and a favorite stop for Yankee whalers as well as interisland steamers. Kōloa was also the site of the first successful commercial sugar mill in the Hawaiian Islands, the Kōloa Plantation, which was established in 1835 by Ladd & Company.
The land for the sugar plantation had originally been leased from King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli). Kōloa soon became a thriving plantation town and Kōloa Plantation survived under various owners until McBryde Sugar Company shut the plantation down in 1996.
The remnants of the smokestack of Kōloa Plantation’s mill may be seen just off the main road near the center of town. Also at the site is a sculpture memorializing the different ethnicities that worked on the region’s plantations. After World War II, Kōloa’s population and business climate declined.
Today Kōloa’s refurbished old buildings house a variety of shops and restaurants. Often called Old Kōloa Town, the row of shops, eateries, and other buildings includes numerous historic structures, such as the 1910 Jodo MissionBuilding. Historical plaques in the front of the buildings describe old Kōloa.
Every July, Kōloa’s residents celebrate Kōloa Plantation Days, which include a parade as well as a town fair. TheKōloa Heritage Trail is a 7½-mile (12 km) route with bronze pedestals describing the historical and cultural significance of 13 sites in Kōloa and Po‘ipū.
[Kōloa, Maluhia Road (Hwy. 520).]
Po‘ipū
Po‘ipū is located to the south of Kōloa on Kaua‘i’s “sunny south side.” Known for its white-sand beaches, clear blue waters, and sheltered coves, Po‘ipū is one of Kaua‘i’s main resort destinations. There is no central “downtown Po‘ipū,” but the area is home to the Sheraton Kaua‘i Resort as well as Kiahuna Plantation, and a shopping center.
The area commonly known as Po‘ipū Beach spans from Po‘ipū Beach Park (off Po‘ipū Road at the end of Ho‘owili Road) west to the Sheraton Kaua‘i Resort, and encompasses three crescent-shaped beaches separated by rocky points.
The Po‘ipū area contains several popular surfing and bodysurfing spots as well as great swimming and snorkeling locations, including one of the island’s best beaches for children. A lifeguard station and a nice swimming beach make Po‘ipū Beach Park one of the most popular south shore destinations for local kids and families.
Po‘ipū Beach has also been a favorite site for Kaua‘i’s ‘ilio-holo-i-ka-uaua (Monachus schauinslandi, Hawaiian monk seals) to give birth, and more than once in recent years an area of the beach was closed off to protect the monk seal mothers and babies. Information about recent birthing activity may be checked through the Kaua‘i Monk Seal Watch Program at the internet site: www.kauaimonkseal.com. (See Hawaiian Monk Seals, Chapter 6.)
The western side of Po‘ipū Beach Park includes a spit of sand that ends at the rocky islet of Nukumoi Point. The spit of sand leading to the point was created by sand washed up by waves coming around either side. This type of sand formation is known as a tombolo, and one of just three on Kaua‘i (the other two are at Kīpū Kai and Kīlauea’s Crater Hill.)
On the west side of Po‘ipū is the tombolo is a well-protected beach that is great for kids. Snorkeling is better on the east side of the tombolo, where the coral reef provides habitat for various colorful reef fish.
Tide pools near Nukumoi Point may be explored at low tide. This is a wonderful snorkeling area, with lots of angelfishes, (Pomacanthidae), Moorish idols (Zanclus cornutus), damselfishes (Pomacentridae), tangs (Acanthuridae), and butterflyfishes (Chaetodontidae).
Across the street is Nukumoi Beach & Surf Company, which rents snorkeling gear as well as body boards and surfboards. Just east of Po‘ipū Beach Park is Brennecke’s Beach (off Ho‘onē Road), a favorite spot of experienced bodyboarders.
About 150 yards (137 m) west of Po‘ipū Beach Park, past a rocky point, is Wai‘ōhi Beach (also called Po‘ipū Beach), a popular surfing and swimming beach.
[Po‘ipū—Directions: From Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50), take Maluhia Road (Hwy. 520) or Kōloa Road (Hwy. 530) to Po‘ipū Road (Maluhia Road first doglegs to the right on Kōloa Road). To get to Po‘ipū Beach Park, take Po‘ipū Road to Ho‘owili Road and go south about 1/10 mile (160 m).]
Moir Gardens
Moir Gardens encompass 35 acres (14 ha) across Po‘ipū Road (Hwy. 520) from the Po‘ipū Village Shopping Center. Moir Gardens originated in 1938 as the personal gardens of Hector Moir (a sugar plantation manager) and his wife.
The expansive gardens, including many exotic cacti and succulents, have grown larger over the years, and are now surrounded by the Kiahuna Plantation Resort and Plantation Gardens Restaurant, located in the former Moir residence, the plantation manor house, built in the early 1930s and now refurbished with cherry wood floors and trimmed with native koa(Acacia koa).
The home was the plantation manor house for the Kōloa Plantation, and Hector Moir became manager of the Kōloa Sugar Company in 1933. Hector’s wife was Alexandra “Sandie” Knudsen, and her father gave the newlyweds the house as a wedding gift. The Moir’s hosted many social events in the home, which became a center of plantation society.
[Plantation Garden Restaurant, 808-742-2216, 2253 Po‘ipū Road, Kōloa.]
Prince Kūhiō Park / Hō‘ai Heiau
Prince Kūhiō Park is a 3-acre (1.2-ha) park located on Lāwa‘i Road. The park features a pond, terraced stone walls, and Hō‘ai Heiau. The Prince Kūhiō Monument in the park pays tribute to Hawai‘i’s second delegate to congress, Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana‘ole Pi‘ikoi.
Prince Kūhiō was born on March 26, 1871 to David Kahelepouli Pi‘ikoi and Princess Esther Kinoiki Kekaulike near Hō‘ai Bay at Kukui‘ula (“Red light”[61]) west of Kōloa, Kaua‘i. Prince Kūhiō was the nephew of Queen Kapi‘olani (sister of Princess Esther Kinoiki Kekaulike), who adopted him, and the great grandson of Kaumuali‘i, the paramount ruler of Kaua‘i who ceded the island to King Kamehameha I in 1810 to avoid war.
Prince Kūhiō was born in the Kōloa region of Kaua‘i’s southern coast near Hō‘ai Bay in a grass house at an ancient fishing village called Kukui‘ula (“Red light”[62]). He was the youngest of three boys, all considered ali‘i (royalty) due to their royal descent from Kaua‘i’s paramount ruler (king) Kaumuali‘i. One brother, Edward Keali‘ihonui, died in his teens.
Jonah Kūhiō and his other brother David Kawānanakoa were adopted into the childless royal family of King Kalākaua and Queen Kapi‘olani after the boys’ father, David Kahalepouli Pi‘ikoi, died when Kūhiō was ten.
Kalaniana‘ole, means “The royal chief without measure,”[63] referring to the prince’s noble heredity, which includes the royal lineage of Kūhiō’s mother, Esther Kinoiki Kekaulike, who was appointed governor of Hawai‘i Island by King Kalākaua.
When Kūhiō was 13 years old, King Kalākaua declared Jonah and his brother David princes by royal decree with the intent that they would carry on the Kalākaua dynasty. King Kalākaua and Queen Kapi‘olani held an official coronation on February 12, 1883 at ‘Iolani Palace, and the jeweled royal crowns were carried by Prince Kūhiō and his brother DavidKawānanakoa.
Due to his cherubic and handsome looks, Prince Kūhiō was sometimes referred to as Prince Cupid, a name given to him in his youth by his French teacher. Prince Kūhiō attended the Royal School and Punahou School on O‘ahu, and then attended St. Matthew’s College in California before enrolling in the Royal Agricultural College in Cirencester, England. He then graduated from an English business school.
Prince Kūhiō was a master of the traditional Hawaiian art of lua (ancient Hawaiian form of martial arts). He also competed on school teams in the sports of football and track.
In 1884, Kūhiō was appointed to the Cabinet of the Hawaiian Kingdom by Kalākau to administer the Department of the Interior. With the support of King Kalākaua, Prince Kūhiō studied Japanese culture and government for one year inJapan. The king hoped the Prince would find a royal Japanese bride and form a marital alliance between the Hawaiian Islands and Japan.
Prince Kūhiō was named as presumptive heir to the throne by Queen Lili‘uokalani after she ascended to the throne in 1891, making Kūhiō the last royally-designated heir. After he returned to the Hawaiian Islands just before the Hawaiian monarchy was overthrown in 1893, Prince Kūhiō worked to restore Queen Lili‘uokalani to the throne.
In 1895 at the age of 24, Prince Kūhiō participated in a royalist uprising (a counter-revolution) against the Republicof Hawai‘i, and was arrested by the Provisional Government, charged with treason, and imprisoned for one year.
After his release from prison, Prince Kūhiō married Elizabeth Kahanu Ka‘auwai, a full-blooded Hawaiian chiefess who was the daughter of a Maui chief, and they took a trip to Africa. Disheartened by the events in the Hawaiian Islands, Prince Kūhiō joined the British Army in South Africa in the Boer War.
Prince Kūhiō was next in line to ascend to the throne after Princess Ka‘iulani passed away in 1899, but the restoration of the monarchy became more unlikely with each passing year.
Prince Kūhiō and his wife returned to the Hawaiian Islands in 1901. He helped organize the Republican Party in 1902 and that same year he was elected as the Territory of Hawai‘i’s second, non-voting delegate to the United States Congress (after Robert Wilcox), serving in the position for a total of 20 years (ten, two-year terms) until he died in 1922.
Prince Kūhiō helped to found the Order of Kamehameha in 1903 and the Hawaiian Civic Club of Honolulu in 1918. The Civic Club’s tradition of community involvement continues today.
Due to his political efforts to help Hawaiians and promote self-sufficiency among the native population, Prince Kūhiō was known as Ke Ali‘i Maka‘āinana, which means “Chief of the Commoners,” “Citizen Prince,” or “Prince of the People.”
Throughout his life, Prince Kūhiō worked to preserve the traditions and culture of native Hawaiians. One of Prince Kūhiō’s legacies was his inspired involvement in the passing of the Hawaiian Homestead Commission Act, which was enacted on July 9, 1921 to provide low-cost homestead and farming land to Hawaiians with at least 50% native Hawaiian ancestry based on blood quantum.
A total of 203,500 acres (82,354 ha) was designated as “available lands” for the program, but the sugar companies had lobbied to exclude all areas that were not used for sugar, which included most of the best agricultural land in the Hawaiian Islands. No money was available to develop the second-tier parcels and thus most of the lands were not used.
During the first 70 years after the passage of Hawaiian Homestead Commission Act of 1920, just 3,000 families received lands and many people who were on the original list of applications passed away before receiving land.
Of his political efforts, Prince Kūhiō stated, “The legislation proposed seeks to place the Hawaiian back on the soil, so that the valuable and sturdy traits of that race, peculiarly adapted to the islands, shall be preserved to posterity.”[64]
Prince Kūhiō’s home was called Pualeilani, which means “Flower from the wreath of heaven.” The home was located across Kalākaua Avenue from Kūhiō Beach Park.
Prince Kūhiō passed away due to heart disease on January 7, 1922 at the age of 50. He was given the last state funeral held for a Hawaiian ali‘i (royalty), and was laid to rest at the Royal Mausoleum in O‘ahu’s Nu‘uanu Valley.
Prince Kūhiō Park is located near the Prince Kūhiō’s birthplace on Kaua‘i’s southern shore west of Kōloa. The park features a pond and terraced stone walls, Hō‘ai Heiau, and a statue of the prince that was unveiled on June 17, 1928 with about 10,000 people in attendance.
Prince Kūhiō’s life is celebrated with an annual state holiday each year on Prince Kūhiō Day, the prince’s birthday, March 26. Prince Kūhiō Day is traditionally a day of canoe races and other local events, including a ceremony at PrinceKūhiō Park on Kaua‘i.
Kūhiō Beach Park in Waikīkī is named after Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana‘ole Pi‘ikoi, whose home fronting the beach was torn down in 1936. (See Kūhiō Beach Park; and Statue of Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana‘ole in O‘ahu section, Chapter 2; Prince Kūhiō Park/Hō‘ai Heiau in Kaua‘i section, Chapter 2; and Chapter 11: Timeline: 1871, March 26 forBiographical Sketch of Prince Kūhiō.)
[Prince Kūhiō Park / Hō‘ai Heiau, Lāwa‘i Road, ½-mile (.8 km) from Po‘ipū Road (Hwy. 520). Directions: As you near the coast on Po‘ipū Road (Hwy. 520), past Mile Marker 4, the road forks. The left fork leads to Po‘ipū. The right fork, Lāwa‘i Road, leads to Prince Kūhiō Park and Spouting Horn.]
Spouting Horn
The natural rock formation known as the Spouting Horn blowhole is located on Lāwa‘i Road on Kaua‘i’s south side, to the west of Prince Kūhiō Park. Waves smashing into a lava shelf on the shoreline are funneled up through an ancient lava tube, resulting in a geyser effect similar to Old Faithful.
Spouting Horn’s water shoots up to 50 feet (15 m) high, producing a loud noise as the water is compressed into the hole in the rock and then released. Legend has it that the groaning noise comes from a mo‘o (lizard) named Lehu who is trapped within the rock and moans for the loss of his sisters on Ni‘ihau.
[Spouting Horn, Lāwa‘i Beach Road, west of Pō‘ipu.]
National Tropical Botanical Garden—McBryde Garden / Allerton Garden
Chartered by the United States government in 1964, the National Tropical Botanical Garden at Lāwa‘i includes an Herbarium with some 27,000 tropical flora specimens. The preserve encompasses 186 acres (75 ha), with another 100 acres (40 ha) near the coast. This coastal area is now known as Allerton Garden, and was originally owned by Queen Emma in the 1870s.
Queen Emma visited the estate in 1870-1871 with an entourage of about 100 retainers and servants. They stayed at the Queen’s 4,200-acre (1,700-ha) Lāwa‘i estate, which had been deeded to her by her aunt, Hikoni. The estate encompassed the entire ahupua‘a (natural watershed land division) of Lāwa‘i.
During Queen Emma’s 1870 visit to Kaua‘i, she journeyed up to the highlands forests of Kōke‘e and the Alaka‘i Swamp with her sizable retinue including hula dancers and musicians, venturing as far as the Kilohana Lookout. (SeeKōke‘e State Park section.)
In honor of her journey, the Queen renamed her Lāwa‘i estate Mauna Kilohana. Queen Emma’s large frame house had a thatched roof, and was situated on a hill on the Kōloa side of the valley overlooking Lāwa‘i Bay. The estate also included several outbuildings, and stone walls enclosed the entire area.
During Queen Emma’s visit, George Norton Wilcox (son of Wai‘oli missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox) and William O. Smith (son of Dr. James Smith, also a missionary) rode on horseback with Queen Emma to an area upland of her estate where they surveyed a water source. Wilcox and Smith consulted with Queen Emma to plan an irrigation ditch to provide water to the her Lāwa‘i estate.[65] Two men were hired to construct the ditch about 1 foot (30 cm) deep and wide, and about 2 miles (3.2 km) long.
The ditch to Mauna Kilohana began functioning on March 11, 1871. Once water was available, Queen Emma personally assisted in the planting of numerous Polynesian-introduced species, including kalo (Colocasia esculenta, taro), kī(Cordyline fruticosa, ti), kō (Saccharum officinarum, sugarcane), and pia (Tacca leontopetaloides, Polynesian arrowroot). Also cultivated on the property were native species such as hala (Pandanus tectorius, screwpine), ‘ōhi‘a lehua (Metrosiderosspecies), and hau (Talipariti tiliaceum). Many non-native species were also planted, including rose apple, bamboo, mango, and bougainvillea.
On April 25, 1871, Queen Emma boarded the steamer Pauahi for O‘ahu. The Lāwa‘i estate, Mauna Kilohana, was later leased by Queen Emma to Duncan McBryde, a Scot, who was also the district court judge.
Queen Emma died in 1885, and the following year the ahupua‘a of Lāwa‘i was sold to Elizabeth McBryde for $5,000. The land was used for the production of sugarcane, and Alexander McBryde (the son of Duncan and Elizabeth McBryde) lowered cut-up portions of the Mauna Kilohana house, originally built in 1869, down the pali (cliff) into Lāwa‘i Valley (Lāwai‘i Kai) where it became known as Queen Emma’s Cottage.
In 1937, Robert Allerton paid $50,000 for the 125-acre (51-acre) McBryde estate on Lāwa‘i Bay. Allerton was a Chicago industrialist as well as a philanthropist and arts patron. On Lāwa‘i Bay, Robert Allerton built a new house designed by architect John Gregg and furnished with antiques and expensive art. Allerton, 64 at the time, also expanded the estate’s gardens.
Allerton and Gregg moved to Kaua‘i permanently in 1938 and began the detailed planning and designing of the property’s landscape, including planting many tropical, exotic and rare plants and trees. The 100-acre (40-ha) Allerton Garden includes sculptures, fountains, and pools as well as prodigious landscaping and many notable plant specimens. The National Tropical Botanical Garden acquired the site in 1971.
Just across from Spouting Horn is the National Tropical Botanical Garden Visitor Center, housed in an old plantation-style cottage from the 1920s. The Visitor Center sells gifts, and also provides information about the NTBG’s scientific research efforts as well as their conservation programs aimed at preserving native species of the Hawaiian Islands.
The 252-acre (102-ha) McBryde Garden includes perhaps the largest collection of federally listed endangered plant species found anywhere. Research is ongoing, and the Garden’s expert botanists and researchers have developed propagation techniques that are helping to preserve these many unique plants.
The herbarium at the site includes more than 27,000 dried plant specimens, while the research library houses about 8,000 volumes and serials.
Tours depart from the Visitor Center to both the Allerton Garden and the McBryde Garden. A bus brings visitors along an old railroad grade to the Lāwa‘i Bay and the Gardens. Tours of Allerton Garden include a walk through the estate, while tours of the McBryde Garden include bus rides between different areas of the property.
[National Tropical Botanical Garden, 808-332-7361, 3530 Pāpālina Road, Kalāheo, open daily 8-5; Visitor Center, 808-742-2623, Lāwa‘i Beach Road, Po‘ipū. Allerton Garden Tour, Tues.-Sat. (4 times per day), 2½ hour tour. McBryde Garden Tour, Mondays only (2 tours), www.ntbg.org. Directions: Take Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50) to Kōloa Road (Hwy. 530), near Mile Marker 11, to Po‘ipū Road, go right, and then take right fork, Lāwa‘i Road. Garden entrance is located across from Spouting Horn.]
Shipwreck Beach (Keoniloa Bay)
Located in front of the Hyatt Regency Kaua‘i, is a nice stretch of sand called Shipwreck Beach, named after a wrecked vessel that once adorned the site. The shorebreak sometimes attracts experienced surfers and body boarders, but create dangerous conditions for the inexperienced swimmer.
Makawehi Point, on the left (east) end of the beach, is frequented by fishermen as well as kids jumping from the cliff. Anne Heche and Harrison Ford jumped from these rocks in 6 Days/7 Nights. The lithified cliffs in this area were formed from sand dunes during the last ice age, and are a great place for hiking and exploring.
[Shipwreck Beach—Directions: Take public access road between Po‘ipū Bay Resort Golf Course and the Hyatt.
“separated from the rest of Po‘ipū by a “rocky coastline etched with nature trails”
2-mile , popular hike”
Māhā‘ulepū Beach and Coastline
Māhā‘ulepū Beach, located a couple of miles past Shipwreck Beach, is isolated and untouched by development. Beyond the sea cliffs are beautiful, white-sand beaches, including sheltered coves and tide pools. Onshore are lithified sand dunes created about 11,000 years ago by rising sea levels that turned the sand into solid limestone. Later erosion by wind and rain created the many strange formations that may be seen there today. This land was inhabited by Hawaiians in ancient times.
Walking east along the beach for about ten minutes leads to Kawailoa Bay, which is also surrounded by sea cliffs and sand dunes. About 1/3 mile (.5 km) west, just past a stream, is a short trail that leads to a cinder cone with a cave in the center.
[Māhā‘ulepū Beach and Coastline—Directions: Take Po‘ipū Road (Hwy. 520) past Hyatt Regency onto the dirt road and go 1.8 miles (2.9 km), turn right at stop sign and go past gatehouse to parking area at end of road. Follow the trail on the right to the beach. Open 7:30 to 6 during winter months, and 7:30 to 7 during summer months.]
88 Places of Kobo Daishi
This Buddhist holy place near Lāwa‘i includes 88 miniature shrines, each made of cement and named for a Buddhist saint. Sacred sands buried beneath the shrines came from the original 88 Holy Places, which was built by the revered Shingon leader Kobo Daishi, about 1,000 years ago. According to Shingon tradition, worshiping at the site will release one from the 88 human sins symbolized by the shrines.
[88 Places of Kobo Daishi—Directions: A trail to the shrine begins near utility pole #344 about 200 yards (183 m) west of Wawae Road on Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50), or go just a short distance on Wawae Road makai (toward the ocean) from Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50).
Kalāheo
Kalāheo and east to Lāwa‘i is cattle country. Local farmers in this area also raise poultry and grow coffee. In 1860, Duncan McBryde leased the land and started a cattle ranch. He also married Elizabeth Moxley, and one of their six children was Walter McBryde who started sugarcane operations on the land. The McBryde Sugar Company was incorporated in 1899.
The Kalāheo lands were later made available at low rates to homesteaders as part of an agreement with Hawai‘i’s Territorial Government. Many descendants of the region’s original sugarcane workers still live throughout the area, including a significant Portuguese population. The town’s commercial center consists of a few businesses and a post office at the intersection of Hwy. 50 and Pāpālina Road.
Kukuiolono Park
Atop a hill south of Kalāheo is Walter McBryde’s former estate, now known as Kukuiolono Park, including a 9-hole golf course as well as a Japanese garden and other gardens. Also at the site are a variety of culturally significant stones that were gathered from around Kaua‘i.
The stones at Kukuiolono include Pōhakuloa, said to symbolize a fish god, and the bowl-shaped stone called Pōhaku Awa, the fish stone said to have been used to hold fish being transferred to upland ponds from Nōmilu Pond near the ocean.
Walter McBryde is buried near the 8th tee, near his prized Japanese garden. Kukuiolono (“Lono’s light”[66]) is said have once been the sight of where signal fires (torches) were lit to help guide ocean travelers back to shore in their canoes.
[Kukuiolono Park—Directions: From Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50), just east of Highway 540, take Papālina Road (at the stop light) ¾ mile (1.2 km) to Pu‘u Road and then turn right through the stone archway.]
Hanapēpē / Port Allen
Hanapēpē, located just past ‘Ele‘ele, a, is touted as the “Biggest Little Town on Kaua‘i.” A fork in the road off of Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50) leads directly to Hanapēpē’s main street, Hanapēpē Road, which was featured in The Thornbirds, a television miniseries. Today Hanapēpē is primarily a farming town and grows much of Kaua‘i’s produce.
Port Allen is western Kaua‘i’s main port, located just east of Hanapēpē. Port Allen is a popular departure point for boats tours, and is also the headquarters of McBryde Company, which formerly ran a sugar plantation there, and now grows coffee on about 3,400 acres (1,376 ha), making it the largest coffee plantation in the Hawaiian Islands.
Not far from the coffee production facility is the Kaua‘i Coffee Museum and Visitor Center, located in the former sugar camp called Numila, west of Kalāheo. The Visitor Center is located in two restored camp houses (plantation worker houses). One of the houses serves as a gift shop while the other exhibits items from Hawai‘i’s sugar era, including old coffee roasters and grinders. Free coffee samples are provided along with information about coffee processing. Outside you can view the coffee trees.
[Kaua‘i Coffee Museum and Visitor Center, 808-335-0831.]
Hanapēpē Valley Overlook
This overlook of Hanapēpē Valley is located at Mile Marker 14 and provides a great view of the expansive valley with its red-edged cliffs. The lands makai (toward the ocean) were the site of an 1824 battle that took place when George P. (Prince) Kaumuali‘i, also known as Humehume, the son of Kaua‘i’s former paramount ruler King Kaumuali‘i, led a revolt on Kaua‘i seeking independence from King Kamehameha II (Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho).
Kuhina nui (premier) Ka‘ahumanu, the former queen as wife of King Kamehameha I, helped to stop the rebellion with the assistance of Kalanimoku. Humehume was defeated in the battle and was taken prisoner along with his wife Betty, the daughter of Isaac Davis (‘Aikake). Humehume remained imprisoned on O‘ahu until his death of influenza on May 3, 1826. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1824.)
[Hanapēpē Valley Overlook, Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50), Mile Marker 14.]
Salt Ponds
Salt Ponds is a traditional Hawaiian salt-gathering area located on the western edge of Hanapēpē. Shallow, mud-lined beds (salt pans) are used to allow the sun to evaporate seawater, leaving behind crystals of pa‘akai (salt), which is tinted red by Kaua‘i’s iron-rich earth. This site is the last of the natural salt ponds still in use in the Hawaiian Islands.
Just past the salt ponds is Salt Pond Beach Park, with picnic and camping facilities as well as a lifeguard station. A reef partially protects the sandy beach, and a shallow cove area provides safe swimming. A nice park area also make Salt Ponds a popular spot for picnics..
[Salt Pond Beach Park, Hanapēpē. Directions: On Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50) near the 17 Mile Marker, take Lele Road (Hwy. 543) about ½-mile (.8-km) south, then go right on Lokokai.]
Eastern Kaua‘i
Lydgate Beach Park
Lydgate is one of Kaua‘i’s best beach parks for kids. Lifeguards are on duty during regular hours, and two stone-walled ocean pools provide safe areas for swimming. Be cautious, however, as the currents may be dangerous in the deeper offshore waters, particularly north of Lydgate Beach.
Also at Lydgate Beach Park is Kamalani Playground, an elaborate, community-built playground area that is a testament to the volunteer efforts of hundreds of Kauaians. Lydgate Beach also has picnic facilities, including pavilions and restrooms.
Lydgate Beach Park is named after the Reverend John M. Lydgate, a Protestant minister who founded the Līhu‘e English Union Church, and later was one of the founders of the Kaua‘i Historical Society (see above). An ancient heiau is also located on the site (see Wailua section below).
[Lydgate Beach Park, Leho Drive (at Mile Marker 5) north of Līhu‘e in Wailua, just south of the Wailua River (near Holiday Inn), off Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56), open dawn to dusk.]
Nukoli‘i Beach
Nukoli‘i Beach spans about 2 miles (3.2 km) in all, from Lydgate Beach along the length of the region fronted by the Wailua Golf Course. Though Nukoli‘i is not the best swimming beach, it is almost always uncrowded.
The southern part of Nukoli‘i Beach can be reached by taking the Radisson Resort entrance. The beach can also be accessed by the dirt road between the Radisson’s entrance and the golf course (near Mile Marker 4).
[Nukoli‘i Beach, fronting Wailua Golf Course, Wailua, Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56).
Wailua
In ancient times, Wailua was a political and religious center of Kaua‘i, with numerous heiau (sacred places of worship) as well as other culturally important sites. It was also home to many important ali‘i (royalty and chiefs). Wailua means “Two waters.”[67]
The coastal area of the ahupua‘a was known as Wailua Kai, and was home to many of Kaua‘i’s ruling chiefs as well as kāhuna (high priests). The region offered fertile agricultural lands, access to marine resources, and a good canoe landing. It was also a good place for he‘e nalu (surfing waves).
The region extending from the ocean at Wailua Bay, up to the mountain ridges above Nounou and Kālepa, was known in ancient times as Wailuanuiho‘ano (“Great sacred Wailua of the chief Ho‘ano”),[68] referring to the 14th century chief named Wailuanuiaho‘ano.
A trail along the course of the Wailua River led up through the length of the valley to six different heiau that were aligned from the shoreline to the top of the island. The chiefs traveled up through the groves of koa (Acacia koa), sandalwood (Santalum species), and ‘ōhi‘a lehua (Metrosideros species) to finally reach the small plateau atop 5,148-foot (1,569-m) summit of Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale.
The name Wai‘ale‘ale means “Rippling water or overflowing water”[69] referring to a pond on the summit plateau. Also on the summit is a heiau (sacred place of worship) and altar dedicated to the god Kāne, considered the spirit of the water and the lord of the forests. The summit heiau is named Ka‘awakō (“The kava drawn along”[70]). It is said that Kāne remains there beneath Wai‘ale‘ale’s clouds.
Cultural Sites
of
Wailuanuiaho‘ano
The region from the ocean at Wailua Bay up to the ridges of Nounou and Kālepa was known in ancient times as Wailuanuiho‘ano (“Great sacred Wailua of the chief Ho‘ano”),[71] referring to the 14th century chief named Wailuanuiaho‘ano.
Site Location Comments
Hauloa South bank of Wailua rivermouth Likely included a pu‘uhonua (place of
refuge)
Hikina-a-ka-lā Part of Hauloa (religious center) 395 feet (120 m) long;
56 to 80 feet (17 to 24 m) wide
Kukui Heiau North bank of Wailua rivermouth Across rivermouth from Hauloa
Na Ki‘i Pōhaku (Petroglyphs) South bank of Wailua rivermouth Sometimes covered with sand
Canoe Landing Near Wailua river mouth
Loko i‘a (Fishponds) Near Wailua river mouth
Māla‘e Heiau West side of Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56) 273 by 324 feet (83 by 99 m);
walls up to 10 feet (3 m) high,
Holoholokū Heiau South side of Kuamo‘o Road (Hwy. 580)
Bellstone South side of Kuamo‘o Road (Hwy. 580) Signaled royal birth
Poli‘ahu Heiau South side of Kuamo‘o Road (Hwy. 580) Included several structures*
* Structures within Poli‘ahu included an ‘anu‘u (oracle tower), lele (altar), hale pahu (temple drum house), and hale umu (where temple fires were kept, and offerings prepared)).
Hauloa Heiau
Hauloa (“Dew of life”[72]) is a large heiau (sacred place of worship) located at the mouth of the Wailua River, and is thought to have included a pu‘uhonua (place of refuge). The religious center at Hauloa was Hikina-a-ka-lā (“Rising of the sun”[73]), located at the point where the sunlight first touches the island of Kaua‘i’s eastern shore each morning.
Hikina-a-ka-lā was built an estimated 1,200 years ago and oriented to Hōkūpa‘a (“Immovable star”[74]), the Polynesians’ name for the North Star. Hikina-a-ka-lā was a stone enclosure about 395 feet (120 m) long, and from 56 to 80 feet (17 to 24 m) wide.
Though little of the original structure remains today, the walls of Hikina-a-ka-lā were once 11 feet (3.3 m) wide and 6 feet (1.8 m) high, and said to be watched over by Ka pae ki‘i o Wailua.[75] It remains largely unknown what events and rituals took place at Hikina-a-ka-lā, though the heiau’s size and location leave little doubt that the site was very important in ancient Hawai‘i.
In the 1800s, the sacred area of Hauloa was abandoned as far as religious uses, and coconut palms and sweet potatoes were planted. In the 1900s the heiau’s rocks were taken away and used for road beds, leaving only the loose outline of the foundations stones that may be seen there today. Formerly at the site were many great slabs of stone set on end in a double row.
In 1962, Hikina-a-ka-lā and other Wailua heiau were designated National Historic Landmarks. A bronze plaque commemorates the heiau as “Hauola, City of Refuge.” Located next to the plaque is an adze grinding stone as well as two flat, stone salt pans. Toward the beach are some petroglyphs known as Na Ki‘i Pōhaku, which are often covered by shifting sands.
Across Wailua Bay, on Alakukui Point, are the grass-covered remains of the foundation stones of Kukui Heiau.
[Hauola Heiau, end of Lydgate Beach parking lot near Wailua rivermouth.]
Māla‘e Heiau
Māla‘e Heiau is located near the mouth of the Wailua River, about 45 feet (12 m) from Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56), on the mauka (mountain) side of the road. Thought to be one of Kaua‘i’s oldest heiau and also the largest, Māla‘e Heiau encompasses about 2 acres (.8 ha).
The stone structure measures 273 by 324 feet (83 by 99 m), with walls up to 10 feet (3 m) high and 8 to 13 feet (2.4 to 4 m) thick. A 6-foot by 2-foot (1.8-m by .6-m) stone ledge lined the inside of the wall, providing a place for people to sit and watch the proceedings.
According to legend, Māla‘e Heiau was built by menehune about 1,500 years ago. The heiau is said to be an example of the menehune trait of forming a single line of people many miles long to pass rocks from one person to the next. (See Menehune section, Chapter 3.)
Māla‘e Heiau was converted into a cattle pen by Deborah Kapule (the last queen of Kaua‘i as the wife of King Kamuali‘i) after she converted to Christianity. In the late 1800s and early 1900s, the rocks of Māla‘e Heiau were used by the sugar plantations for construction projects. This was the impetus for the founding of the Kaua‘i Historical Society by Reverend John M. Lydgate and others. More recently, the heiau has been cleared of overgrown brush by volunteers working to restore the site.
[Māla‘e Heiau, located on the west side of Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56), near the south bank of Wailua River.]
Holoholokū Heiau
Holoholokū Heiau is located on the south side of Kuamo‘o Road (Hwy. 580), just off the main highway. Said to be one of Kaua‘i’s oldest heiau, Holoholokū is relatively small, measuring about 20 feet by 40 feet (6 m by 12 m). Holoholokū Heiau was a luakini, where human sacrifices were performed.
A birthstone on the western side of the site is where ancient ali‘i (Hawaiian royalty) gave birth. A plaque on the stone reads “Pohaku Hoohanau Birthstone.” Another rock on the site has a plaque that reads “Pohaku Piko,” and this pōhaku (stone) was where the baby’s umbilical cord (piko) was left to ensure the child’s health.
A stairway near the heiau climbs to the top of a small hill overlooking the Wailua river. On this mound are dozens of Japanese gravesites, some marked with lava-rock gravestones.
[Holoholokū Heiau, alongside Kuamo‘o Rd. (Hwy. 580), about ¼ mile (.4 km) from Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56) on the left (south) side of the road.]
Bellstone
The Bellstone is located farther up Kuamo‘o Road (Hwy. 580), also on the south side of the road. Just after Mile Marker 1 and just before Poli‘ahu Heiau, a dirt road on the left leads about 200 yards (183 m) to the site. One of the two boulders at the edge of the hill is the bellstone (it’s uncertain which one).
In ancient days, the ringing of the Bellstone could be heard through the valley, and signaled that a royal birth had occurred. This bellstone may have also been used to send signals to heiau sites at lower elevations to warn them of approaching dangers (e.g., invading warriors in canoes).
Poli‘ahu Heiau
Poli‘ahu Heiau is located on the south side of Kuamo‘o Road (Hwy. 580). Considered the sister heiau to Māla‘e, Poli‘ahu Heiau is 242 feet (74 m) long by 165 feet (50 m) wide, and the site of ancient religious ceremonies led by a kahuna (high priest).
Structures within Poli‘ahu were dismantled after the overthrow of the kapu in 1819 (see Chapter 11, Timeline: 1819, May 20), including an ‘anu‘u (a three-story wooden oracle tower), lele (altar, or raised platform), hale pahu (temple drum house), and a hale umu, described as an “...oven house where the temple fires were kept and offerings were prepared.”[76]
Visible from Poli‘ahu is Māla‘e Heiau, and it is likely that communication took place between the two locations in ancient times. Above Poli‘ahu is Kālepa Ridge’s last peak, called Mauna-kapu (“Sacred mountain”[77]).
[Poli‘ahu Heiau, Kuamo‘o Road (Hwy. 580), on south side of the road just before ‘Ōpaeka‘a Falls Viewpoint, Wailua.]
Wailua River / Wailua Falls
Located on Kaua‘i’s east side, the Wailua River is widely cited in tour books as the Hawaiian Islands’ only navigable river, but this is technically incorrect since boaters and kayakers also frequently explore many of the smaller rivers in the Hawaiian Islands.
Wailua River State Park is Kaua‘i’s most visited State Park, with more than 1 million people visiting each year. Large, flat-bottom boats are used to bring visitors upriver to the lush, natural cathedral known as the Fern Grotto is a fern-laced natural amphitheater cave accessible only by boat.
Tour boats (see below) depart from the Wailua marina on the south bank of the Wailua River near Kūhiō Highway(Hwy. 56). Another way to see the Fern Grotto is to rent a kayak from one of the nearby outfitters, and paddle upriver to the site.
Smith’s Tropical Paradise is located west of Wailua Marina on the southern side of Wailua River. Encompassing about 30 acres (12 ha), Smith’s Tropical Paradise includes gardens and lagoons complete with exotic birds (e.g., peacocks). There are also several recreated ethnic villages, including Japanese, Filipino, and of course, Polynesian. Smith’s also puts on a musical show each night in the lagoon theater, as well as a lū‘au (traditional Hawaiian feast) three times per week.
Wailua Falls is located on the south fork of the Wailua River, 3½ miles (5.6 km) up Mā‘alo Road from Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56). The turnoff from Kūhiō Highway onto Mā‘alo Road is located between Līhu‘e and Hanamā‘ulu. From the top to the bottom of this waterfall is about 80 feet (24 m). The water usually cascades over in two separate falls, but if it’s been raining a single torrent gushes over the cliff. About 1/3 mile (.5 km) before the end of Mā‘alo Road is the beginning of the unimproved and potentially treacherous trail to the bottom of the waterfall.
[Wailua Falls, End of Mā‘alo Road (Hwy. 583), 3¾ miles (6 km) west of Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56). Directions: From Līhu‘e take Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56) north to Mā‘alo Road, and turn left.
[Wailua River, Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56), 7 miles (11.3 km) north of Līhu‘e.]
[Smith’s Motor Boat Service, [808-821-6892.]
[Wai‘ale‘ale Boat Tours, 808-822-4908; Tours leave every half hour, 9-3 except noon, no reservations required.]
‘Ōpaeka‘a Falls
Located just up Kuamo‘o Road (Hwy. 580) from Poli‘ahu Heiau is ‘Ōpaeka‘a Falls Viewpoint. ‘Ōpaeka‘a Falls is fed by the ‘Ōpaeka‘a Stream, a tributary of the Wailua River. ‘Ōpaeka‘a means “Rolling shrimp,”[78] and refers to the swarms of shrimp that once filled the pools at the base of the waterfalls.
Just across Kuamo‘o Road (Hwy. 580) from ‘Ōpaeka‘a Falls Viewpoint is an overlook in the other direction, providing a great view of the Wailua River, and Kamūkila Hawaiian Village, a reconstructed Polynesian village located on the northern bank of the river. Kamūkila offers tours as well as Hawaiian craft demonstrations.
[‘Ōpaeka‘a Falls Viewpoint, Kuamo‘o Road (Hwy. 580).]
[Kamūkila Hawaiian Village, 823-0559, located off Kuamo‘o Road (Hwy. 580), 8:30-4:30, Mon.-Sat.]
Keāhua Arboretum
At the top of Kuamo‘o Road (Hwy. 580), at a stream crossing 6¾ miles (11 km) from Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56), is Keāhua Arboretum. A short trail leads to a picnic area with a view of a steep ridge. The 5,243-foot (1,598-m) summit of Mt. Kawaikini is visible on the south end of the ridge. About 1 mile (1.6 km) north of Kawaikini is the 5,148-foot (1,569-m) peak of Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale.
[Keāhua Arboretum, Kuamo‘o Road (Hwy. 580), 6¾ miles (11 km) from Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56).]
Nounou Ridge (Sleeping Giant)
Nounou Ridge runs north from ‘Ōpaeka‘a Falls and climbs to an elevation of 1,241 feet (378 m). The ridge slopes to the east toward the ocean, providing a physical reminder of the former slope of the ancient Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale before erosion carved away at the massive volcano.
From Kapa‘a and Wailua, the view to the west is dominated by a mountain ridgeline likened to the shape of a giant reclining figure known as Sleeping Giant. The head is toward the middle of the ridge (south) and the feet to the right (north).
It is said that the menehune tried to awaken the giant by throwing stones, but so many stones landed in the giant’s mouth that it gave him an incurable case of indigestion. This caused the giant to remain there sleeping ever since.
Kapa‘a
Kapa‘a is an old plantation town, and the last major town before heading north toward Kīlauea.
Keālia Beach
Keālia Beach is located north of Kapa‘a alongside Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56). This area was once the site of a steamer landing and train depot that provided service to the nearby sugar mill.
Though Keālia is a popular surfing and sunbathing beach, the offshore currents may be extremely dangerous. A lifeguard tower at Keālia Beach provides some measure of safety, but if waves are large, only the experienced should venture into the water.
[Keālia Beach, Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56), just north or Kapa‘a, past Mile Marker 10.]
Anahola
Anahola is located north of Kapa‘a, near Mile Marker 13 on Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56). At the bottom of a hill is the town’s only commercial establishments, including: a convenience story; hamburger stand (Ono Burgers); and a post office. Anahola is also the site of Hawaiian homes.
Anahola is located beneath the eastern end of Anahola Ridge beneath the Kalalea Mountains. The summit of the peak on the left is called Hōkū‘alele (“Shooting star”) and is the site of an ancient three-terraced heaiu (sacred place of worship).
The next peak over is Kalalea (“Prominent”[79]), commonly called Kong Mountain, or King Kong’s Profile. The ancient Hawaiians likened the shape of this peak to the a shark fin. To the right (north) of Kalalea, a small hole through the mountain can be seen from Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56).
Larsen’s Beach
Larsen’s Beach was formerly the site of the beach house of L. David Larsen, who managed the Kīlauea Sugar Plantation. A rocky area on the right (southeast) side of Larsen’s Beach provides good snorkeling when the waves outside the reef aren’t too large.
Pākalā Point is on the left (northwest) side of the beach where lava rocks jut out into the water. Pākalā Channel (visible as you approach from above), has a strong current that pulls out to sea. Beware of swimming near this area. Beyond Pākalā Point are two sandy beaches extending toward Kepuhi Point.
[Larsen’s Beach—Directions: From Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56), take Ko‘olau Road between Mile Markers 16 and 17 for 2.3 miles (3.7 km)—or the other Ko‘olau Road entrance at Mile Marker 20 for 1.2 miles (1.9 km)—to the unpaved access road to Larsen’s. Look for the Beach Access sign. The dirt road goes for about 9/10 mile (1.4 km), and then a trail leads down to the beach.]
Moloa‘a Beach
Moloa‘a Stream drains into the center of the bay’s long crescent of sand, which is fronted by 200-foot (61-m) bluffs. Numerous drownings and near drownings have occurred at Moloa‘a Beach, so use extreme caution if swimming in this area.
[Moloa‘a Beach—Directions: Take Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56) to Ko‘olau Road between Mile Markers 16 and 17. Take Ko‘olau Road 1.2 miles (1.9 km), then continue on to the right on Moloa‘a Road to the end. A sign points left to the beach access.]
Northern Kaua‘i
Na ‘Āina Kai Botanical Garden
Na ‘Āina Kai includes 12 acres (5 ha) of gardens along with 110 acres (44.5 ha) of tropical hardwood trees and 45 acres (18 ha) of exotic fruit trees. Twelve well-maintained theme gardens grace the grounds, with various attractive features, including gazebos, koi-filled ponds, and topiary.
Na ‘Āina Kai also has a Japanese tea house, a cactus garden, a carnivorous plant house, and more than 65 bronze statues of people and animals designed in Americana style. A well-groomed hedge maze consists of 2,400 mock orange plants. The Garden’s 56,000 tropical hardwood trees are primarily teak, but also zebra wood, Indian rosewood, and three types of mahogany.
[Na ‘Āina Kai Botanical Gardens, 828-0525, www.naainakai.com.]
Kāhili Beach (Rock Quarry)
Kāhili Beach is commonly known as Rock Quarry due to the past use of the area. Located on Kīlauea Bay, Kāhili is a great swimming beach relatively well-protected at its northwestern side near the mouth of the Kīlauea Stream. The beach is also frequented by surfers.
[Kāhili Beach (Rock Quarry). Directions: Turn north from Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56) onto Wailapa Road between Mile Markers 21 and 22. About ½-mile (.8 km) down Wailapa Road is a dirt road on the left leading about ½-mile (.8 km) down to the beach.]
Guava Kai Plantation
With about 480 acres (194 ha) of guava in cultivation, Guava Kai Plantation claims the title “guava capital of the world.” Guava Kai is located just mauka (mountain side) of Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56), across from Kīlauea town. Turn mauka (toward the mountains) on Kuawa Road, at the large guava wearing sunglasses that announces the way to Guava Kai. (This fancy sign is not always on display, but there is also a permanent sign at the intersection of Kuawa Road and the highway.)
Guava Kai’s Visitor Center sells jellies, juices, and other products made from the sweet, pink fruit. Information is also provided about the growing and processing of guava. Agronomical engineering at Guava Kai has the goal of producing a better guava, and cultivates a hybrid guava species that attains a size about twice as large as the guavas growing wild around Kaua‘i. Ninety percent of the guava trees at Guava Kai are of the Beaumont variety. The other ten percent include Gushiken, Red Indian, and Ruby Supreme varieties.
As the largest guava plantation in the United States, Guava Kai harvests about 10 million pounds (4.5 million kg) of guavas each year, producing about half of the Hawaiian Islands’ crop and also exporting the products to the United States Mainland as well as Canada.
Guava Kai’s guava processing plant may be seen operating during the harvest season from August to December. The plantation also has a hiking path that leads to tropical trees with identifying labels.
[Guava Kai Plantation, 808-828-6121, open 9-5 daily. Directions: From Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56), about 34 miles (55 km) north of Līhu‘e, turn mauka (toward the mountains) on Kuawa Road near Kīlauea, just north of Mile Marker 23 and about ¼ mile (.4 km) south of Kolo Road (the entrance road to Kīlauea town).]
Kīlauea Town
Kīlauea began as a sugarcane plantation town housing the workers of the Kīlauea Sugar Company, which was established in 1880 by British and American partners, who imported many plantation laborers from China. In 1881,Princess Lili‘uokalani (Hawai‘i’s future Queen) came to Kīlauea to dedicate the new railroad, which included 24 railroad cars, a railroad engine, and three miles of track.
Kīlauea is entered from Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56) by turning makai (toward the ocean) on Kolo Road, just past Mile Marker 23 (look for the Shell gas station). Just past the gas station on Kolo Road is the historic Christ Memorial Episcopal Church, built in 1941 with walls of cut lava stones and stained glass windows imported from England. A Hawaiian Congregational Church was once located on this site, and the adjacent cemetery has gravestones dating to the 1800s.
Across from the historic church is the beginning of Kīlauea Road. Less than 1 mile (1.6 km) down Kīlauea Road is a small group of stores surrounded by a nice courtyard area that provides a nice place to eat and relax. The stores include: the Kong Lung Center (a boutique); Island Soap and Candle Works; Kīlauea Bakery and Pau Hana Pizza; the Lighthouse Bistro restaurant; and some other small shops. Proceeding farther down Kīlauea road leads to the Kīlauea Point National Wildlife Refuge (see below).
[Kīlauea Town, 25 miles (40 km) north of Līhu‘e on Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56).]
Kīlauea Point Lighthouse
Perched atop a peninsula jutting out from Kaua‘i’s northern coastline is the Kīlauea Point Lighthouse, a historic landmark originally built to provide a guide for ships arriving from the Orient. Panoramic views of the Pacific Ocean make the peninsula bluff a great place to see a variety of native birds, including several endangered species. (See Native Birds of the Hawaiian Islands, Chapter 7 for more information about the birds listed below.)
Native Bird Species seen at Kīlauea Point National Wildlife Refuge
Hawaiian Name Common Name Scientific Name
‘A Red-Footed Booby Sula sula rubripes
‘Iwa Great Frigatebird Fregata minor palmerstoni
Koa‘e ‘Ula Red-Tailed Tropicbird Phaethon rubricauda rothschildi
Koa‘e Kea White-Tailed Tropicbirds Phaethon lepturus dorotheae
Kōlea Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva
Mōlī Laysan Albatross Diomedea immutabilis
Nēnē Hawaiian Goose Branta sandvicensis
‘Ua‘u Kani Wedge-Tailed Shearwater Puffinus pacificus chlororhynchus
The Lighthouse bluff is also the northernmost point in the main Hawaiian Islands, and provides great views of the north shore coastline extending to Princeville and beyond, as well as the nearer coastal area of Kauapea Beach (commonly called Secret Beach), where dolphins often congregate in the morning (see below).
Kīlauea Point Lighthouse stands 52 feet (15.8 m) high, atop a cliff that is more than 200 feet (61 m) above the ocean. The point on which the Lighthouse sits was acquired by the United States government in 1909. The Lighthouse was officially dedicated on May 1, 1913 and for the next 62 years served as a navigational aid for ships.
The Fresnel lens installed in the Kīlauea Point Lighthouse was made in France and cost $12,000. The 4-ton (3.6-mton) lens of the Lighthouse is the world’s largest clamshell lens (though it is no longer in service). The lens was turned by a weighted cable and pulley system that required rewinding ever 3½ hours. After being rewound, the weighted cables would again slowly descend as the lens flashed every 10 seconds. Light was produced using an oil-vapor lamp.
Kīlauea Point Lighthouse was credited with saving the crew of the Fokker C-2-3 Wright I trimotor plane Bird of Paradise, which completed the first non-stop flight to the Hawaiian Islands from the United States on June 28-29, 1927. The Bird of Paradise crew included Albert Hegenberger and Lester Maitland, two lieutenants in the United States Army. Low on fuel and slightly off course, Hegenberger and Maitland saw the double flash of the lighthouse beacon and turned back. They landed in Honolulu to complete the first trans-Pacific flight to the Hawaiian Islands from the western coast of the United States.
In 1930, an electric lamp replaced Kīlauea’s Lighthouse’s oil-vapor lamp, and a 200-watt radio beacon was also added. The new light generated ½-million candlepower, which was double the illumination that had been generated by the oil-vapor lamp. The light and the radio beacon were turned off during World War II, and a secret radar site was built on Crater Hill above the Lighthouse (the bunkers are still visible).
By 1958, Kīlauea Point Lighthouse was generating up to 2.5-million candlepower. The installation of an electric drive ended the need for manual rewinding. The Lighthouse was decommissioned in 1976 when an automated electronic beacon was placed in the tower.
Kīlauea Point Lighthouse is part of the 203-acre (82-ha) Kīlauea Point National Wildlife Refuge, which was established after the United States Coast Guard left in 1985. In 1988, the Refuge was expanded to include Mōkōlea Pointand Crater Hill.
Refuge staff offer hikes up to Crater Hill, which is reached by following a trail up from the Lighthouse along the seacliffs. During the 1 mile (1.6 km), two hour hike to Crater Hill, guides provide information about native plant and bird life as well as local geology. The guided hikes are given Monday through Thursday at 1 p.m.
The Refuge’s extensive habitat restoration efforts and fenced perimeter allow many native plant and bird species to thrive that would otherwise be at extreme risk due to local dogs, cats, pigs, and other non-native species.
Native species propagated on the Refuge include naupaka kahakai (Scaevola sericea, beach naupaka), ‘ilima (Sida fallax), hala (Pandanus tectorius, screwpine), ‘akoko (Chamaesyce species, spurge), ahea‘hea (Chenopodium oahuense), and ālula (Brighamia species).
Kīlauea Point Lighthouse was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1979. In 1992, the waters offshore of the Wildlife Refuge were designated a National Marine Sanctuary with the intent of helping the endangered koholā (Megaptera novaeangliae, humpback whale), which visit Hawaiian waters each winter to mate and give birth.
Also seen in the waters offshore of the Lighthouse bluff are nai‘a (Stenella longisrostris, spinner dolphins), leapingfrom the water with acrobatic flips and spins. The dolphins often swim close to shore, particularly in the early mornings of spring and summer. Other marine life seen offshore of Kīlauea Point includes ‘ilio-holo-i-ka-uaua (Monachus schauinslandi, Hawaiian monk seals); honu (Chelonia mydas, green sea turtles), and nai‘a (Tursiops truncatus, bottlenose dolphins).
The Kīlauea Point National Wildlife Refuge now receives more than 200,000 visitors per year. The Visitor Center at the Refuge includes a gift and book shop as well as interpretive displays about native wildlife.
Just offshore of Kīlauea Point is a small, rocky islet called Moku‘ae‘ae, which means “Fine (small) island.”[80] Moku means “Island” or “Islet,” and ‘ae‘ae means “rise of the tide; froth of the sea.”[81] A meaning sometimes given for Moku‘ae‘ae is “Fragment frothing in the rising tide.”
Albatross Tagging Project
In 1999, ornithologists working in conjunction with Kīlauea Point National Wildlife Refuge and the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service attached transmitters to mōlī (Diomedea immutabilis, Laysan albatross) nesting near Kīlauea Lighthouse. When the birds left Kaua‘i to find food for their young, the transmitters sent signals to a satellite that relayed the birds’ latitude and longitude data back to Earth.
Results from a previous study based on Tern Island found that one albatross flew 24,843 miles (40,000 km) in just 90 days. The bird traveled all the way across the North Pacific and back, a distance equal to flying all the way around the world. Another bird made repeated trips east to the San Francisco Bay area and then back to the Hawaiian Islands to feed its young.
Continuing research will reveal more about the large, graceful albatross birds, including their unique courtship habits and their amazing journeys in search of food. Updates on the tagged birds may be seen on the internet site: www.wfu.edu/albatross. More information is provided in the Refuge’s Visitor Center, which also features displays and dioramas about native species and geology.
[Kīlauea Point National Wildlife Refuge, [808-828-1413 ], Kīlauea Road, Kīlauea, 808-828-0168, www.kilauea-point.com, 10-4, daily; Guided hike to Crater Hill, Mon.-Thurs, 10 a.m. by reservation. Directions: take Kolo Road to Kīlauea Road, to the end at Kīlauea Point, www.fws.gov
BEGIN QUESTIONS
The book
Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition (Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974, Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini) says that the offshore islet, Moku-‘ae‘ae is ”3 acres, 104 foot elevation”
— is this correct, do you have any other info about Moku-‘ae‘ae?
Is there a Hawaiian name for Crater Hill?
What is the elevation of Crater Hill?
Do have any information about the radio beacon being turned off during World War II and a secret radar site built on Crater Hill above the Lighthouse (e.g., bunkers still visible)?
What year was the electric drive installed, ending the need for manual rewinding?
What is the species name for the ‘āheahea propagated on the Refuge?
or is it ahea‘hea (Chenopodium oahuense)
Kīlauea Lighthouse Fact Sheet
Lighthouse Height: 52 feet (15.8 m).
Size of Kīlauea Point National Wildlife Refuge: 203 acres (82 ha).
Height of Peninsula Bluff: More than 200 feet (61 m) above the ocean.
Weight of Lens: 4-ton (3.6-mton)—World’s Largest Clamshell Lens (no longer in service).
Cost of Fresnel Lens: $12,000 (built in France).
Original Light Source: Oil-Vapor Lamp.
Kīlauea Point Timeline
1909—Peninsula bluff is acquired by United States government.
1913—Kīlauea Point Lighthouse is officially dedicated on May 1.
1930—Oil-vapor lamp is replaced by electric lamp (½-million candlepower).
1930—200-watt radio beacon is installed.
1958—Illumination up to 2½ million candlepower.
1976—Lighthouse decommissioned, automated electronic beacon installed.
1985—United States Coast Guard leaves; Kīlauea National Wildlife Refuge established
1988—Refuge is expanded to include Mōkōlea Point and Crater Hill.
1979—Kīlauea Point Lighthouse is added to the National Register of Historic Places.
1992—Waters offshore of the Refuge are designated a National Marine Sanctuary to help in the preservation of the endangered koholā (Megaptera novaeangliae, humpback whale).
Kauapea Beach (Secret Beach)
To get to Kauapea (Secret Beach), from Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56) take Kalihiwai Road just west of Kīlauea at Mile Marker 24. The pavement quickly turns to dirt, and at the end of this dirt road is a trail that provides access down to the beach. The trail may be a bit slippery at a few points if it has been raining, but generally is a very gradual easy walk about ¼ mile (.4 km). The beach itself is long and wide, with fine golden sand interspersed with lava rocks.
[Kauapea Beach (Secret Beach)—Directions: From Kūhiō Highway (Hwy. 56), turn north on the first (eastern) Kalihiwai Road, just before Mile Marker 24, and then turn right on the first dirt road, which leads down to the parking area at the head of the trail down to the beach.]
Kalihiwai Bay / Kalihiwai Beach
Kalihiwai Beach is a nice crescent of sand along Kalihiwai Bay. At the eastern end of the beach is the mouth of the Kalihiwai River. Kalihiwai Falls is visible from the main highway just north of Mile Marker 25 while crossing over Kalihiwai Bridge.
‘Anini Beach
Just west of the first Kalihiwai Road is the second intersection of Kūhiō Highway and Kalihiwai Road. This second Kalihiwai Road has a fork in it: left leads to ‘Anini Beach (see below); right leads to the west side of Kalihiwai Bay, where the road once connected through before the bridge along this route was destroyed by a tsunami. (See Tsunamis, Chapter 4.) In the Kalihiwai Stream you can still see the remnants of the old bridge.
‘Anini Beach is about 2 miles (3.2 km) long, and mostly protected along its whole length by a fringing reef. Several surfing spots are located along the reef, and the protected waters of ‘Anini are popular among windsurfers, particularly beginners and those taking lessons. Also along ‘Anini Beach are county campgrounds. An estate in this area was used in the movie Honeymoon in Vegas starring Sarah Jessica Parker and James Caan.
Princeville
A few miles west of Kīlauea is the resort area of Princeville. Just before the entrance to Princeville is the Princeville Airport, which is now used primarily as a departure point for helicopter tours. The airport was also used for scenes in the 2002 movie Dragonfly starring Kevin Costner. Located upstairs in the airport building is the Landing Pad(formerly called Amelias), a local bar that often features bands and other events.
Just west of the airport is the Prince Golf Course clubhouse and Princeville Health Club and Spa. The luxurious health club weight room has floor to ceiling windows looking out over the golf course with the Pacific Ocean in the distance.
About 1 mile farther is the entrance to the resort community of Princeville, easily identified by the large fountain, statue, and pools with small waterfalls. At night these water features are lit up, providing quite a regal entrance.
The name “Princeville” was the result of an 1860 visit to Hanalei by Queen Emma and King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani) with their young son, Prince Albert. The boy’s full name was Albert Edward Kauikeaouli Leiopapa o Kamehameha, Ka Haku o Hawai‘i (The Prince of Hawai‘i).
The royal party came to Hanalei as the guests of Robert Crichton Wyllie, the Minister of Foreign Affairs for the Hawaiian Kingdom. Wyllie was also an agricultural entrepreneur and landowner in Hanalei. The King, Queen, and Prince stayed at Wyllie’s plantation manager’s house, called Kikiula (later called the Princeville Plantation House and then the Princeville Ranch House), which was situated on a plateau above the east side of the Hanalei River.
In the summer of 1860, to honor the young Prince Albert, Wyllie changed the name of his estate to the Princeville Plantation and made the young Prince the intended heir to the Hanalei estate. Wyllie planned on petitioning the government of the Kingdom for his estate to be officially designated “Barony de Princeville.” Tragically, however, Prince Albert passed away in 1862 at the tender age of four, and then King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani) passed away in 1863 at the age of 29.
Robert Crichton Wyllie passed away on October 19, 1865 at his Rosebank estate on O‘ahu, and was buried at Honolulu’s Royal Mausoleum. Wyllie’s Princeville Plantation continued on under various owners, eventually becoming Princeville Ranch, primarily involved in raising cattle.
Princeville Resort had its beginnings in July of 1968 when Harry Trueblood of Eagle County Development Corporation, a Denver-based subsidiary of Consolidated Oil and Gas Company, bought all but about 50 acres (20 ha) of the Princeville Ranch from a subsidiary of American Factors Ltd. (Amfac). (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1849.)
In the 1970s the development of Princeville as a major resort area began. In 1971, Princeville’s Makai Golf Course opened, including three nine-hole courses called Lakes, Woods, and Ocean.
In 1982, the Princeville Hotel Corporation was formed with the intent of constructing a major luxury hotel at Pu‘u-pōā on the shoreline of the east side of Hanalei Bay. In September of 1985, the Sheraton Princeville Hotel opened, with 300 rooms available for visitors. The development of the Prince Golf Course along the shoreline above the eastern side of Princeville began in 1986.
In 1987, the Qintex Group of Queensland, Australia purchased the “resort” and then from 1989 to 1991 an extensive refurbishment of the hotel took place. Renamed as the Sheraton Mirage Princeville, the hotel was upgraded to a 5-star standard. Also in 1989, construction of the 60,000-square-foot (5,575-sq.-m) Prince Clubhouse began adjacent to the Prince Golf Course.
Today the majority shareholder in the Princeville Corporation is the Japanese company Suntory, Ltd., which acquired a major controlling share in the corporation in June of 1990. Two other Japanese companies, Nippon Shinpan & Co. Ltd. and Mitsui & Co. Ltd., are equal shareholders as minority partners. The resort’s name officially became Princeville Resort and the hotel reopened on May 15, 1991 as the Princeville Hotel.
After Hurricane ‘Iniki[82] severely damaged the Princeville Hotel on September 11, 1992, the hotel was closed, and $30 million in repairs were required. The hotel’s 250-person staff finally returned to work on October 15, 1993, and in May of 1995 the hotel was designated “Hotel of the Year” by ITT Sheraton.[83]
Today Princeville is an 11,000-acre (4,452-ha) resort destination and Kaua‘i’s largest planned community, stretching from the upper eastern slopes of Hanalei Valley (on the west) to ‘Anini Beach and Kalihiwai Valley (on the east). The 252-room Princeville Hotel sits on 23 acres (9 ha) atop Pu‘u-pōā Ridge and terraced into the oceanfront hillside.
Princeville’s two expansive golf courses are rated among the top in the nation, and the luxurious Princeville Health Club and Spa offers a spectacular setting, with ocean views and a wide array of opportunities for exercise and rejuvenation. Princeville also includes 16 time-share condominium complexes, and several more are planned. Also found throughout Princeville are hundreds of private homes.
Fort Alexander, RW
During Schäffer’s brief adventure in the Hawaiian Islands, he also oversaw the construction of two forts in Hanalei:Fort Alexander and Fort Barclay. Fort Alexander stood above the mouth of the Hanalei River, and the outline of the foundation (now covered by a grass lawn) may now seen just adjacent to the Princeville Sheraton. A small pavilion includes displays with information about the old Russian fort.
Queen’s Bath
Queen’s Bath is a large pool formed by a depression worn into a lava shelf along the shoreline beneath the cliffs of Princeville. Use extreme caution in this area, however, because the shoreline around Queen’s Bath is directly exposed to the Pacific Ocean’s waves, and may create extremely dangerous conditions when winter swells arrive on Kaua‘i’s north shore.
The pool known as Queen’s Bath is directly connected to the ocean, and dangerous conditions occur much of the winter and occasionally during the summer months. Numerous drownings and injuries have occurred at Queen’s Bath, so use extreme caution and do not go in the water when the waves are breaking. Remember, the larger waves often come in sets that may arrive only once every ten or twenty minutes, or longer.
[Queen’s Bath, Directions: From Princeville’s main road, Ka Haku Road, turn makai (toward the ocean) on Punahele Road, and follow it to Kapi‘olani Loop where there is a small parking area near the trailhead. At the bottom of the trail, go about 260 yards (238 m) to the left.]
Hanalei Valley
Hanalei is a quiet little seaside town on Kaua‘i’s north shore. Known for its fine beaches as well as its scenic lo‘i kalo (taro patches), Hanalei is surrounded by steep green mountains on one side and the warm, blue waters of Hanalei Bay on the other side.
Archaeological studies show that the early Polynesian settlers of the Hawaiian Islands were growing taro (Colocasia esculenta, taro) in Hanalei Valley at least 800 years ago. This tradition continues today as more than 60% of the taro grown in the Hawaiian Islands is grown in the Hanalei region, and most of it is milled into poi, still a staple of the Hawaiian diet.
The Hanalei Valley Lookout is located alongside Kūhiō Highway (Route 56) just west of the Princeville Shopping Center. The Lookout provides amazing views of Hanalei Valley and the patchwork of lo‘i kalo (taro patches) on the Hanalei Valley floor.
Flowing into Hanalei Bay are the rivers and streams of four major valleys, more properly known as ahupua‘a, the traditional Hawaiian land divisions extending from the mountains to the sea including the offshore coral reefs. The four ahupua‘a bordering Hanalei Bay are, from east to west: Hanalei, Wai‘oli, Waipā, and Waikoko.
From the Hanalei Valley Lookout, Kūhiō Highway changes from Route 56 to Route 560, and descends a long hill into Hanalei Valley. At the bottom of the hill, the road crosses over the Hanalei Bridge, a historic one-lane truss-bridge built in 1912, and now considered the “gateway to Hanalei.”
Hanalei Bridge is the Hawaiian Islands’ oldest American-made, steel, through-truss bridge, and the first of seven bridges North Shore bridges accommodating just one direction of traffic. The Hanalei Bridge is a single span, steel bridge spanning 113 feet (33.5 meters) over the Hanalei River. Hanalei Bridge was placed on the State and National Registers of Historic Places in 1978.
Just past Hanalei Bridge is ‘Ōhiki Road, which leads along the Hanalei River to the historic Haraguchi Rice Mill, built in 1930 and now completely restored. The rice industry thrived in the Hawaiian Islands, and particularly in the Hanalei Valley, from the late 1800s to about 1930. By 1960 the Haraguchi Rice Mill was last operating mill, and today it is the only remaining rice mill in the Hawaiian Islands. Tours are given for educational groups by reservation (808-823-9287). A small parking area about ¾ mile (1.2 km) down ‘Ōhiki Road is near the trailhead leading on a nice hike up to a promontory overlooking Hanalei Valley and Hanalei Bay.
After crossing over Hanalei Bridge, Kūhiō Highway (Route 560) meanders along the course of the Hanalei River alongside the taro fields until reaching the town of Hanalei.
[Ho‘opulapula Haraguchi Rice Mill, 808-823-9287, 4708; ‘Ohiki Road, on Hanalei Valley National Wildlife Refuge.]
Hanalei Town
In the center of Hanalei Town is the old Ching Young Store building (1905), and several other structures from the rice era, including the Say Dock House (1895), and a former Japanese Shingon Buddhist Temple (1934). Just east of Aku Road is a former Hongwanji Japanese Buddhist Temple originally built in Līhu‘e in 1901 and then moved to Hanalei in 1985.
Many historic Hanalei structures from the late 1800s and early 1900s are related to the region’s prosperous rice industry during that period. The rice farmers were primarily from China, until the Hawaiian Islands were annexed to the United States in 1898, and then the majority of rice farmers in Hanalei were immigrants from Japan. This was followed by the integration of numerous other ethnicities, including an influx of Filipino rice farmers in the Hanalei area in the 1930s.
Also still standing in Hanalei Town is the Old Hanalei School, originally built in 1926 near the current Hanalei School (which is just down the road), and later moved to the center of town where it now houses shops and a restaurant.
On the western end of Hanalei Town is St. Williams Catholic Church, built in 1955. The bell hanging in front of St. Williams is from Hanalei’s first Catholic Church, which was built near the Hanalei rivermouth in 1864.
Across the street from St. Williams, in the old Kaua‘i Electric Building, is the relatively new Hanalei Poi Company, which mills the taro of the Hanalei region into poi that is sold throughout the Hawaiian Islands as well as in many United States Mainland markets.
Just to the west of the Hanalei Poi Company is the Lily Pond dug there by Chock Chin, a prominent Hanalei rice farmer and store owner. Just behind and to the west of the Lily Pond is the building now known as the Lily Pond House, built in 1933 near the shore of Hanalei Bay and later moved on coconut tree rollers to its current site.
Just to the west of these buildings is Wai‘oli Park, known by locals as the Hanalei soccer fields. On the far side of the park is Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church, built in 1912 by Sam, George, and Albert Wilcox in honor of their parents, the pioneer Wai‘oli missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox. The American Gothic style church is notable for its beautiful stained glass windows.
Adjacent to Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church is Kaua‘i’s oldest surviving church building, Wai‘oli Mission Hall (the old Wai‘oli Church) and Wai‘oli Church Belfry, both built in 1841. The Belfry is the only surviving example of this type of structure in the Hawaiian Islands. The original bell, brought from Boston in 1843, is now in Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church belltower.
Across the lawn and tucked back behind the trees, is the Wai‘oli Mission House, which was originally built from 1834 to 1837 by William Patterson Alexander, the north shore’s first missionary, along with hired carpenters. One of Kaua‘i’s first Western style frame houses, the Wai‘oli Mission House later became the residence of missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox, who served the Hanalei area from 1846 to 1869. Their descendants have left a legacy on Kaua‘i, from Grove Farm Plantation to Wilcox Hospital. In Hanalei town is Hanalei Poi Company, a poi mill co-owned by Wilcox descendant Hobey Beck and Bino Fitzgerald, who both continue to farm taro in the Hanalei region.
The Wai‘oli Mission House was completely restored in 1921 along with Wai‘oli Mission Hall. A short distancefarther down the main road are two more historic bridges crossing over the streams flowing from the valleys of Waipā and Waikoko into Hanalei Bay. At Waipā, an ancient loko i‘a (fishpond) is being restored.
Kūhiō Highway (Route 560) then curves closer to the white, sandy shoreline of Hanalei Bay as it passes the coastal regions of Wai‘oli, Waipā, and Waikoko valleys that border the long, curved shoreline of Hanalei Bay. At the western side of the bay the road climbs a hill and winds around a bend before descending into the valley of Lumaha‘i, which has its own spectacular beaches.
[Wai‘oli Mission House, 808-245-3202, free guided tours, 9-3, Tues., Thurs., Sat.]
[Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church, 808-826-6253; service Sun. at 10 a.m.]
Hanalei Bay
One block makai (toward the ocean) from Hanalei town is Weke Road, which leads to various beaches. Accessed from Weke Road are the beaches and surfing spots commonly known as Grandpas, Pine Trees, The Cape, Pavilions, and finally Kiddies, which is adjacent to Hanalei Pier.
Hanalei Pier was originally built in 1892, and then rebuilt in 1911 when the rice industry was thriving and a longer, more substantial pier was needed. The rebuilt Hanalei Pier was completed in 1912 using the relatively new technique of reinforced concrete. The firm of Conney and Morris provided the architectural design for Hanalei’s new reinforced concrete pier.
When the interisland steamer arrived, it docked in the bay’s deeper waters while cargo was rowed to and from the pier. The pier had a wooden deck, and at the foot of the pier was a freight storage warehouse connected to the pier by narrow gauge tracks. Remnants of the tracks may still be seen near the pier.
In 1921, Hanalei Pier’s wooden deck was replaced with reinforced concrete and the pier was extended. Nāwiliwili Bay became the preferred loading and unloading point for freight after a breakwater was built there in the early 1930s. Hanalei Pier was listed on the National and State Register of Historic Places in 1979. Damage caused by Hurricane ‘Iniki on September 11, 1992, Hurricane ‘Iniki[84] required a major reconstruction of the pier.
Many motion pictures have utilized Hanalei Pier in movie scenes. During the 1960 filming of Wackiest Ship in the Army (starring Jack Lemmon and Ricky Nelson), the filming barge at Hanalei came loose twice, causing damage to Hanalei Pier. Scenes from Bird of Paradise were filmed on Hanalei Bay in 1950. The popular movie South Pacific was filmed in 1957 near the Hanalei rivermouth and at other north shore sites. Other major movie productions with scenes filmed at Hanalei Pier include Miss Sadie Thompson (1953); Beachhead (1953); and Pagan Love Song (1950).
The grass area between Hanalei Pier and the Hanalei rivermouth is known as Black Pot Beach Park. The park is named after the big black iron pot that was once used to cook fish caught during hukilau, when seine nets were used to trap groups of fish (huki means “to pull”; lau means “seine”). The catch was then shared among the members of the community.
Lumaha‘i
Just past Hanalei is Lumaha‘i Valley, including the deep sands of Lumaha‘i Beach. The first entrance to Lumaha‘i Beach is just past Mile Marker 4, where a shoulder on the side of the road provides a place to park. A trail leads down to the east end of the beach, which is often referred to by locals as “Tourist Lumaha‘i.”
Farther down the road are some nice lookouts that provide great views over the north shore coastline. The road then descends a long hill, and at the bottom of the hill, about ¾-mile (1.2 km) past Mile Marker 5, is a turnoff to a parking area at the west end of Lumaha‘i Beach. From this location there are great views mauka (toward the mountains) up into the Lumaha‘i Valley.
The west end of Lumaha‘i Beach is remarkably wide, especially at low tide. Look for patches of greenish sand along the shoreline from olivine mineral deposits washed up on the beach. At the far left (west) side of Lumaha‘i Beach is the rivermouth of the Lumaha‘i Stream, with a lava outcropping jutting out on the far side of the river.
Swimming at Lumaha‘i Beach may be extremely dangerous during most of the winter and also sometimes during the summer months. Slamming shorebreak waves and strong nearshore currents combine to create the dangerous conditions. When the ocean is relatively calm, however, Lumaha‘i Beach is nice for swimming, particularly at the eastern end.
One would be remiss not to mention that Lumaha‘i was the location where Mitzi Gaynor sang Wash That Man Right Out of my Hair in the 1957 movie South Pacific.
Wainiha
Wainiha Valley is the site of ancient lo‘i kalo (taro patches), heiau (sacred places of worship), and numerous other culturally important sites.
A census in 1820 (Kaua‘i’s first census) stated that 65 people in Kaua‘i’s upper Wainiha Valley claimed their nationality to be menehune. Menehune are also known as a legendary race of ancient people of physically small size. [*However, no human skeletal remains of a physically small people have ever been found on Kaua‘i or on the other Hawaiian Islands. Of course this doesn’t mean that menehune never existed, and one never knows if, when night falls, menehune might mysteriously appear to ply their trades*] (see Menehune section, Chapter 3).
A small store at Wainiha offers a last chance to get some supplies for the trip to the end of the road. Heading mauka (toward the mountains) from Wainiha on Wainiha Powerhouse Road (just before Mile Marker 7) leads up into the steep-walled Wainiha Valley. This area has no tourist attractions, just private homes tucked into the hillsides and along the river. Also up Wainiha Powerhouse Road is the Wainiha hydroelectric power plant, which was built by the McBryde Sugar Company in 1906 and remains in service today.
Hā‘ena
Hā‘ena (“Red hot”[85]), is located just west of Wainiha. Many of the homes in this area are built high off the ground (on “stilts”) with the intent of protecting them from tsunamis and floods. The 1957 tsunami destroyed or severely damaged more than 75 homes along Kaua‘i’s north shore, including 25 of the 29 homes in Hā‘ena.
Located in Hā‘ena today are many small cottages along the beach as well as numerous larger estate homes. Hā‘ena is also the site of a YMCA camp as well as the Hanalei Colony Resort and an adjacent restaurant.
[Hā‘ena, Kūhiō Highway (Route 560), past Wainiha to Kē‘ē.]
Mākua (Tunnels) Beach
The premier snorkeling and shore diving location on Kaua‘i’s north shore is Mākua, commonly known as Tunnels Beach due to the many underwater tunnels and caves in the reef or to the hollow shape of the waves at the popular surfing spot outside the reef. Mākua means “Parents.”[86]
[Mākua, Kūhiō Highway (Route 560) between the Mile Markers 8 and 9. Due to the lack of available parking, Mākua (Tunnels) is best accessed by parking at Hā‘ena Beach Park and then walking back along the beach. Two unmarked dirt roads may have closer parking space. One is ½-mile (. 8 km) west of Mile Marker 8, and another is about ¼-mile (.4 km) further west.]
National Tropical Botanical Garden—Limahuli
Limahuli was established as a National Tropical Botanical Garden in 1976 by Mrs. Juliet Rice Wichman. The Limahuli Reserve was established in 1974 by Charles “Chipper” Wichman, who also added his own donation, another 985 acres (399 ha) of adjoining land. A 17-acre (6.9 ha) lower portion of the valley was opened to the public in 1995.
The ancient taro terraces of Limahuli hearken to old Hawai‘i. The trail through the botanical garden is about 2/3-mile (.3 ha), passing many native and Polynesian-introduced plant species, and climbing about 200 feet (61 m) to an overlook with views of the north shore coastline and the Pacific Ocean. The American Horticultural Society recognized Limahuli’s excellent design as well as its research, conservation, and education efforts in 1997, naming Limahuli the United States’ best natural botanical garden.
[National Tropical Botanical Garden, 808-826-1053 (tours/gift shop), 332-7631 (information), 5-829 Kūhiō Highway (Route 560), near Mile Marker #9 just before the end of the road. Open Tues.-Fri. and Sun. from 9:30-4. Guided tours are given from 10 to 2 by reservation; www.ntbg.org.]
North Shore Caves
Located near the western end of Kūhiō Highway (Route 560) near Kē‘ē Beach are three caves, including one dry cave and two wet caves. The caves at Kē‘ē were formed many thousands of years ago when the sea level was higher. The wet caves are associated with the Hawaiian volcano goddess Pele, who is said to have created these caves.
The dry cave is called Manini-holo (“Traveling manini fish”[87]), and is located across from Hā‘ena Beach Park. Manini-holo Dry Cave has a relatively wide opening facing the road, and water drips down from the cave’s ceiling onto the dirt floor.
The wet caves are called Waikapala‘e (“Waters [of] the lace fern”[88]), and Wai-a-kanaloa (“Water [used, made] by Kanaloa”[89]). Waikapala‘e is commonly known as the “Blue Room” due to the light shining into a chamber on the back right of the cave, which sometimes may only be accessed by swimming beneath the rock cave wall and then emerging into the interior cave. Other times the water level is lower, and it is possible to swim directly into the opening leading to the hidden interior cave. People have died in this cave, so use extreme caution. A bit farther down Kūhiō Highway (Route 560) and just to the side of the road is Wai-a-kanaloa.
[Kē‘ē Caves, western end of Kūhiō Highway (Route 560).]
Hā‘ena State Beach Park
Kē‘ē Beach
Kē‘ē Beach and the nearby Hā‘ean State Beach Park are located at the western end of Kūhiō Highway (Route 560)on Kaua‘i’s north shore. Kē‘ē is known for its crystalline clear blue waters as well as its prime location beneath majestic cliffs at the edge of the Nāpali Coast.
A reef surrounding Kē‘ē Beach provides a great protected swimming area unless the waves beyond the reef are too large, in which case currents near the reef may be extremely dangerous. When the ocean is relatively calm (most of the summer and sometimes during winter), the area just outside of Kē‘ē’s fringing reef provides excellent snorkeling opportunities.
According to Hawaiian legend, the body of the Kaua‘i chief Lohi‘au was placed in a cave on a cliff near the beach. This occurred after Lohi‘au died of his love for the volcano goddess Pele. Hi‘iaka (Pele’s sister) and her friend Wahine‘oma‘o (“Green woman”[90]) ascended the cliff and used prayers and herbs to bring Lohi‘au back to life, causing three rainbows to appear in the sky.
The end of the road at Kē‘ē is also the site of the trailhead of the Kalalau Trail, which leads to the spectacular cliffs and spires of the Nāpali Coast. The trail begins mauka (on the mountain side) of Kūhiō Highway (Route 560) where it ends about 8 miles (9 km) past Hanalei. The Kalalau Trail leads over a rugged 11 miles (18 km), climbing and descending along the weather-worn coastline to the remote Kalalau Valley. (See Nāpali Coast below.)
Just before the end of the road is a nice stream with a swimming hole appropriately known as pool the Cold Pond. This is a nice place to cool off on hot days, and rinse off the saltwater from the beach.
[Kē‘ē Beach, west end of Kūhiō Highway (Route 560), dirt road on right leads to parking spots (the few spots at the end of the road are usually full).]
Hula Heiau
Located at the base of the cliffs just above the shoreline of Kē‘ē Beach is an important Hawaiian cultural area still revered for its place in Hawaiian history as well as its continuing mana (spiritual power). In pre-contact times, hula dancers and chanters came here from throughout the Hawaiian Islands, and perhaps from throughout Polynesia, to receive intense training from a kumu hula (hula teacher) in the arts of hula and mele (chanting). (See Hula and Mele section, Chapter 3.)
One of the two heiau (ancient sacred places) at Kē‘ē is known as Ka-ulu-Paoa (“The inspiration [of] Paoa”[91]), referring to a legend regarding the Kaua‘i chief Lohi‘au and his friend Paoa, who trained in the sacred art of hula at the site beneath the lava cliffs. The stones showing the outline of the foundation still remain at Ka-ulu-Paoa, which is located about 150 feet (61 ha) past where the beach’s sand ends and the boulders begin.
A hālau (a structure where hula was performed) was formerly located about 150 yards (137 m) up a stone path on the uppermost of the stone terraces above the shoreline of Kē‘ē, and beneath the mountain peak called Makana (“Gift”[92]). This peak is often referred to as Bali Hai due to its depiction as a mystical distant island in the 1957 movieSouth Pacific. Makana Mountain is a north shore landmark that can be seen from as far away as Kīlauea.
Nearby to Ka-ulu-Paoa is another heiau, known as Ka-ulu-o-Laka (“The inspiration of Laka”[93]). A flat area and the remnants of a stone wall are all that remain of this important heiau dedicated to the hula goddess Laka, who was said to have begun her hula at this location. According to legend, this is also where the volcano goddess Pele first fell in love with the Kaua‘i chief Lohi‘au.
A large rock located along the Kē‘ē shoreline at the base of the trail is known as Kilioe. The deeply-grooved basalt boulder is considered a pōhaku piko, where a baby’s piko (umbilical cord) is placed to help ensure a long and healthy life for the child. A large stone near Ka-ulu-o-Laka “...was named Kilioe for a mo-o goddess; umbilical cords of infants were deposited here.”[94] These sites are extremely sacred to the Hawaiian people, and should not be disturbed.
Northwest Kaua‘i—The Nāpali Coast
Ahupua‘a in the Moku of Nāpali
Hanakāpī‘ai Beach
The Nāpali Coast
Ahupua‘a in the Moku of Nāpali
The moku (chiefdom, or district) of Nāpali includes seven ahupua‘a, natural watershed land divisions extending from the ocean to the sea including the offshore coral reefs. These seven ahupua‘a of Nāpali (“The cliffs”[95]) include (in order from northwest to southwest): Hanakāpī‘ai (“Bay sprinkling food”[96]); Hanakoa (“Bay [of] koa trees or of warriors”[97]); Pōhaku‘au (“Swimming rock”[98]); Kalalau (“The straying”[99]); Honopū (“Conch bay”[100]); Awa‘awapuhi (“Ginger valley”[101]); and Nu‘alolo (“Brains heaped up”[102]).
Hanakāpī‘ai Beach
The trail to Hanakāpī‘ai is one of Kaua‘i’s most popular day hikes, taking about 1½ hours at a leisurely pace, including stops to enjoy the beautiful Nāpali scenery. After passing Hanakāpī‘ai Beach, the trail winds along the hillsides and doesn’t dip down to the ocean again until reaching Kalalau Valley (see below).
Hanakāpī‘ai is a sandy, welcoming beach during the summer months, but during winter the sand is pulled out to sea leaving only rocks behind. Hanakāpī‘ai is also Kaua‘i’s most dangerous beach. More people have drowned at Hanakāpī‘ai than any other Kaua‘i beach, even though many other beaches on the island have a lot more visitors than Hanakāpī‘ai. Between 1970 and 2001, 28 drownings occurred at Hanakāpī‘ai, and most of the victims were never recovered.
The Nāpali Coast
Situated on Kaua‘i’s western side, the Nāpali Coast is one of Earth’s natural wonders. Eroded volcanic pinnacles stand sentinel over deep, ancient valleys. Coastal cliffs rise up steeply for thousands of feet into pointed spires. Castle-like turrets and razor-sharp ridges are lined with streaming waterfalls. The Nāpali Coast spans for about 15 miles of rugged coastline between the beaches of Kē‘ē on the northwest of Kaua‘i and Polihale on the southwest.
[Illustration: Ahupua‘a of Nāpali]
The moku (chiefdom, or district) of Nāpali includes seven ahupua‘a, the traditional Hawaiian land divisions that follow the natural watersheds and extend from the ocean to the sea including the offshore coral reefs.
The seven ahupua‘a of Nāpali include (in order from northwest to southwest): Hanakāpī‘ai; Hanakoa; Pōhaku‘au; Kalalau; Honopū; Awa‘awapuhi; and Nu‘alolo. These seven major valleys of Nāpali become progressively drier as they extend from Kē‘ē to Polihale. The remote Nāpali valley of Kalalau is accessible only by boat or by the 11-mile trail that begins at the western end of Kūhiō Highway (Route 560) on Kaua‘i’s northern shore.
Geologists long believed that large collapses of the coast created the Nāpali’s spectacular features, but recent geological research has determined that the steep cliffs and cathedral valleys of the Nāpali were formed primarily by wave action and stream runoff, both of which cause erosion.[103]
[Photograph: Nāpali Coast]
The Story of Ko‘olau, Pi‘ilani, and Kaleimanu in Kalalau Valley
One of Hawai‘i’s most tragic and most touching love stories is the story of Ko‘olau, his wife Pi‘ilani, and their young child, Kaleimanu. Kaluaiko‘olau (Ko‘olau) was born in Kekaha, Kaua‘i in 1862, and his childhood sweetheart, Pi‘ilani, was born in Kekaha in 1864. Ko‘olau and Pi‘ilani were married and had one son, named Kaleimanu.
In 1892, Ko‘olau contracted Hansen’s disease (leprosy), a disease that had no treatment or cure. Ko‘olau was told he must go to Kalaupapa, the isolated leper colony on the island of Moloka‘i, and his beloved wife and child would not be allowed to accompany him.
Ko‘olau and Pi‘ilani vowed to each other that they would never be separated. They left their Kekaha home for the remote valley of Kalalau on Kaua‘i’s western coast. With their young child, Ko‘olau and Pi‘ilani rode horses from their home in Kekaha to the top of Waimea Canyon, and then to the ridgetop above the Nāpali Coastline. Descending on foot down the precipitous trail into Kalalau Valley, they joined other leprosy victims who had also sought refuge from authorities.
In 1893, all the people in Kalalau with leprosy were rounded up and sent to Kalaupapa, but Ko‘olau refused to go. Ko‘olau let it be known that anyone seeking to force him to go to Kalaupapa would be doing so at the peril of their life. Deputy Sheriff Louis Stoltz of Waimea pursued Ko‘olau in Kalalau Valley, intending to capture him dead or alive. Ko‘olau was a well respected paniolo (cowboy) in the Waimea region, and was known as an expert marksman. Stoltz, with his gun cocked, approached Ko‘olau and his family, and was shot and killed by Ko‘olau.
The news of Stoltz’s death quickly reached Kaua‘i’s acting sheriff, George Norton Wilcox, who then sent the armed forces of Hawai‘i’s Provisional Government to capture or kill the rebellious Ko‘olau. When the soldiers arrived, Ko‘olau and Pi‘ilani and their son retreated to a well-protected cave, known as Waimakemake, beneath an overhanging cliff. By this time, Kaleimanu had also begun to show signs of leprosy.
As the first soldier approached Waimakemake, he was shot dead by Ko‘olau. The next day another soldier pursuing Ko‘olau was also shot dead. The soldiers then left the area to get reinforcements and better weapons, finally allowing Ko‘olau and his family to move to a higher location in the valley. They had endured four days without food and water.
The Provisional Government soldiers soon returned to Kalalau and proceeded to fire powerful artillery guns at Waimakemake, blasting the location for several days until they believed their intended targets had been killed. The soldiers then left Kalalau without discovering that Ko‘olau, Pi‘ilani and Kaleimanu were still alive and living in the highlands of Kalalau.
For the next two years, Ko‘olau, Pi‘ilani, and Kaleimanu lived in the highlands of Kalalau. Then the young Kaleimanu passed away due to the leprosy. The distraught parents continued their remote existence in Kalalau for another year before Ko‘olau also fell prey to the terrible ravages of the disease. The grieving Pi‘ilani used a small knife to dig a hole in the earth and bury her beloved husband along with his rifle. More than three years had passed since they first went into hiding at Kalalau. During this whole time they had not talked to anyone, except two brief encounters with Kalalau residents just a short time before Ko‘olau died.
After the death of her husband, Pi‘ilani remained living in isolation in Kalalau Valley for about two more months. Then she climbed to the to the top of the Nāpali ridge and walked back to her home in Kekaha, where she was reunited with her family and friends who she had left behind more than three years earlier.
After her return to Kekaha, government authorities questioned Pi‘ilani and decided not to prosecute her for being with Ko‘olau when he shot Deputy Sheriff Stoltz and the soldiers. Pi‘ilani lived out her days in Kekaha, passing away in 1914.[104] She wrote the story of these events in the Hawaiian language, and a translation by Frances N. Frazier, titledThe True Story of Kaluaikoolau as Told by his Wife, Piilani, was published by the Kaua‘i Historical Society in 2001.
[Photographs: Ko‘olau, Pi‘ilani and Kaleimanu; Kalalau]
Southwestern Kaua‘i
Waimea Town / Waimea Bay
When Captain James Cook reached the Hawaiian Islands in 1778, he sailed the Resolution and Discovery into Kaua‘i’s Waimea Bay. This was the first place Captain Cook stepped onto land in the Hawaiian Islands, officially establishing Western contact with the Hawaiian Islands. (See Captain Cook section, Chapter 3.)
Today Captain Cook is memorialized by the Captain James Cook Monument, a statue alongside the main road in Waimea’s Hofgaard Park, Waimea’s town square. The statue of Captain Cook in Waimea is a replica of the original statue that was crafted by Sir John Tweed in Whitby, England (Cook’s hometown).
The landing of Captain Cook at Waimea is also memorialized by a plaque at Lucy Wright Beach Park on the western bank of the mouth of the Waimea River, where Cook first came ashore. Lucy Wright Beach Park is named after Waimea schoolteacher Lucy Wright, a native Hawaiian and prominent local community member who taught in Waimea for 35 years. She passed away in 1931.
Shade trees at Lucy Wright Beach Park make it a nice picnic spot, but the waters may be somewhat muddied by the Waimea River. Camping and picnic facilities are available.
Waimea town’s numerous small wooden buildings and false front buildings give it an Old West feel. The First Hawaiian Bank, built in 1929 in the Neoclassical style, is located near the town square alongside Kaumuali‘i Highway(Hwy. 50). The restored 1938 Waimea Theatre, built in the Art Deco style, recently began to show movies again.
On Mākeke Road in Waimea is the old Waimea Christian Hawaiian and Foreign Church, notable for its fine stonework. The church was originally constructed in 1846 using limestone blocks quarried nearby, as well as logs from the nearby mountains.
On the western side of Waimea alongside Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50) is the old sugar mill of the Waimea Sugar Company, which was established in 1884.
[Waimea Beach Park, 1 block south of Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50); look for sign just west of the bridge over the Waimea River).]
Menehune Ditch (Kīkī-a-Ola)
The Menehune Ditch is located about 1¼ miles (18 km) up Menehune Road from Waimea. This remarkable feat of engineering and stonework was built to bring water from the upper Waimea River to the lo‘i kalo (taro patches) in the valley.
As the name implies, Menehune Ditch is said to have been built by the legendary ancient race of people known as menehune (See Menehune section, Chapter 3.) The Hawaiian name for the Menehune Ditch is Kīkī-a-Ola, which translates to “Container [acquired] by Ola. (Chief Ola ordered the Menehune to build a watercourse here; each brought a stone, and the ditch was finished in a single night.”[105])
The aqueduct originally spanned several miles and had walls that were an estimated 24 feet (7.3 m) high, with a footpath along the top of the wall. The small remaining section of Menehune Ditch is about 50 feet (15 m) long by 2 feet (.6 m) wide.
The stones of the Menehune Ditch are flanged and fitted so that the smooth, flattened surfaces fit closely together. This type of cut and dressed stonework is not found anywhere else in the Hawaiian Islands. The origins and methods used in the construction of the Menehune Ditch remain a mystery.
Some researchers theorize that the Menehune Ditch was built by the early Marquesan settlers, who arrived in theHawaiian Islands about A.D. 200 to 800,[106] and are thus considered the first “native Hawaiians.” It is possible that these first settlers of the Hawaiian Islands were responsible for the unique method of stonework used on the Menehune Ditch. This type of craftsmanship is not seen in the projects of later Tahitian settlers, who began arriving in the Hawaiian Islands around A.D. 1.000. (See Chapter 11, Timeline of Hawaiian History, Chapter 11).
The destruction of Menehune Ditch was caused by the creation of Menehune Road as well as the use of the ditch’s rocks for building projects, including Waimea’s Protestant church.
[Menehune Ditch, Menehune Road, about 1¼ mile (2 km) from Waimea (near the suspension footbridge), Waimea Valley.]
Fort Elizabeth
The remains of Fort Elizabeth are located on the east bank of the Wailua rivermouth just east of Waimea town. Fort Elizabeth was built in the design of a six-pointed star, and was once a formidable stone-walled structure. Today a significant amount of the fort remains, giving a glimpse into a short but significant period of Kaua‘i’s history.
Fort Elizabeth at the Waimea rivermouth was named in honor of the consort of the Russian Emperor, Empress Elizabeth (1779-1826). The walls of the Fort Elizabeth were once up to 20 feet (6 m) high and up to 17 feet (5 m) wide at the base. The fort was built entirely by hand, and included about 1,200 feet (366 m) of walls.
The story began after the Russian ship Behring became stranded on the shores of Kaua‘i’s Waimea Bay on January 31, 1815. The ship’s cargo of sealskins was confiscated by Kaua‘i’s ruler, Kaumuali‘i, who had already ceded Kaua‘i to King Kamehameha I in 1810 to avoid war. The confiscation of the ship’s cargo caused the Russian-American Company (the owner of the ship and its cargo) to send Georg Anton Schäffer to the Hawaiian Islands to retrieve the cargo or seek appropriate payment.[107]
On May 21, 1816, Kaumuali‘i signed a document with Schäffer that put Kaua‘i under the protection of the Russian Empire, though neither Schäffer nor Kaumuali‘i had the authority for such an agreement. On July 1, 1816, Schäffer and Kaumuali‘i entered into a secret agreement to use Schäffer’s (purported) Russian authority to reclaim Kaua‘i from King Kamehameha I, and also to launch expeditions against the other islands that Kaumuali‘i felt he had a hereditary right to rule.
In return, Schäffer was to receive land in those islands, including half of O‘ahu as well as rights to all of the valuable sandalwood (Santalum species; Hawaiian name: ‘iliahi) growing on O‘ahu. While Schäffer was to supply ships, ammunition, and men, Kaumuali‘i would supply 500 men as well as food and provisions for the forces.
On September 21, 1816, Kaumuali‘i gave Schäffer Hanalei Valley in exchange for the ship Lydia. A significant portion of the fort at Waimea was completed by November of 1816, including the walls facing Waimea River and the ocean.[108] The Russian flag was raised over Fort Elizabeth,[109] and the fort’s guns were positioned to protect the anchorage’s trading vessels. Thirty-eight cannons stood pointed at Waimea Bay.
Things changed quickly for Schäffer after Russia’s Lieutenant Otto von Kotzebue arrived in the Hawaiian Islands on November 21, 1816, aboard the Russian Navy brig Rurik. Kotzebue repudiated the activities of Schäffer, and informed King Kamehameha I that Schäffer did not have the support of the Russian Emperor.
In May of 1817, Kaumuali‘i was informed that Russia and America were at war, though this was not true, and was instead part of a plot by Americans in the Hawaiian Islands who wanted to make Kaumuali‘i fearful of his association with Schäffer (because an association with Russia would put Kaumuali‘i in a precarious position as an enemy of America). The plan against Schäffer worked perfectly, and Kaumuali‘i promptly renounced his previous agreement with Schäffer, whowas then run out of Waimea by about 1,000 men.
Today the remains of Fort Elizabeth include lava rock walls up to 10 feet (3 m) tall as well as informational displays. Fort Elizabeth was also the site of an 1824 battle when a rebellion against the rule of King Kamehameha II(Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho) was thwarted. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1824.)
[Fort Elizabeth, Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50), on the east side of the Waimea rivermouth, just east of Waimea town.]
Barking Sands Airfield & Pacific Missile Range Facility
The Pacific Missile Range Facility is a United States Navy test facility where advanced weapons testing takes place. Located on Kaua‘i‘s west side along the Mānā shoreline, the military site encompasses nearly 2,000 acres (809 ha), and is home to Star Wars missile tests as well as extensive submarine exercises.
Barking Sands Beach borders part of the facility’s coastline area. The beach’s name is due to the thin silica coating on the beach’s sand grains, which are known to sometimes make a sound resembling barking dogs. This area was once an army base and a beach near the former officer’s quarters is now known as Major’s Bay, a popular surfing spot. The island of Ni‘ihau can be seen across the Kaulakahi Channel. Access to the beach is through the gate, just past Mile Marker 32.
[Barking Sands Airfield & Pacific Missile Range Facility, Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50). Access information: 808-335-4229.]
Polihale State Park
Located near the western end of Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50), Polihale State Park encompasses 140 acres (57 ha) on Kaua‘i’s southwest shoreline. The expansive beach is up to 100 yards (91 m) wide with sand dunes up to 100 feet (30 m) high (see directions below). Polihale means “House bosom.”[110]
To get to the swimming area at Polihale known as Queen’s Pond, turn left at the monkeypod tree (see directions below), and go about ¼ mile (.4 km), and then go up the hill on the right. From there it is just a few minutes walk north to Queen’s Pond, a semicircle of coral reef that forms a swimming area usually protected from the surf and currents. If the ocean waves are big, however, a strong and potentially dangerous current pulls toward the southern end.
Polihale’s sand dunes extend far up onto the shoreline, providing great spots for camping or just enjoying the day. An ancient heiau (sacred place of worship), now overgrown with brush, is located near where the beach ends and the Nāpali Coast begins. The cliffs in this area are known as Hā‘ele‘ele (“Blackish”[111]). According to legend, the cliffs were considered a jumping off point for ‘uhane (spirits) as they left this world.
The vast, wide stretch of sand at Polihale extends all the way back to the town of Kekaha. The 60-foot (18-m) high coastal dunes of Barking Sands (see above) are located at the south end of Polihale. On the north end of Polihale cliffs block the way toward the Nāpali Coast, which is accessible only by boat or by the Kalalau Trail, which begins on the other side of the island at the end of Kūhiō Highway (Route 560) on Kaua‘i’s north shore.
[Polihale State Park, western end of Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50). Directions: go left on the dirt road about ¾ mile (1.2 km) past the Barking Sands military base; drive about 3-1/3 miles (5.4 km) down the dirt road to the large monkeypod tree. Going straight at the tree leads to park facilities, including a pavilion, restrooms, and camping areas. Turning left at the tree leads to Queen’s Pond.]
Waimea Canyon / Kōke‘e State Park
Mark Twain called Waimea Canyon the “Grand Canyon of the Pacific,” and it lives up to the comparison. About 10 miles (16 km) long and more than 3,500 feet (1,067 m) deep, Waimea Canyon is up to 2 miles (3.2 km) wide with red canyon walls that shimmer in the changing light. Amidst the buttes and gorges at the bottom of the canyon is the Waimea River and its tributaries carving a course toward the ocean.
Waimea Canyon Drive (Hwy. 550) begins near the town of Waimea and follows the western ridgeline of Waimea Canyon north to Kōke‘e State Park.
Waimea Canyon Lookout is located just north of Mile Marker 10 at an elevation of about 3,400 feet (1,036 m). Visible from this spot is Koai‘e Canyon, which runs to the east off Waimea Canyon. Also along the route are spectacular views into Waimea Canyon at Pu‘u-ka-Pele Lookout and Pu‘u-hinahina Lookout. At the top of the road is Kōke‘e State Park and the Alaka‘i Swamp.
Kōke‘e State Park and Waimea Canyon may also be reached from Kekaha by taking Kōke‘e Road (Hwy. 552), which joins Waimea Canyon Drive (Hwy. 550) about 7 miles (11 km) up from Kaumuali‘i Highway (Hwy. 50). Along Kōke‘e Road are great views of the island of Ni‘ihau as well as Kaua‘i’s Mānā Plain.
The Alaka‘i Swamp is located at an elevation of about 4,000 feet (1,220 m) in an ancient crater that is now a soggy marsh where the acidic soil produces a variety of strange, stunted vegetation, such as mature ‘ōhi‘a lehua (Metrosiderosspecies) that are less than 2 feet (61 cm) tall. In normal soil these trees would be about 40 feet (12 m) tall.
The Alaka‘i is the world’s highest elevation swamp, and supports a rich wonderland of rare and often strange-looking native species, some endemic (unique) to the Alaka‘i Swamp. The Alaka‘i totals about 20 square miles (52 sq. km) in size.
Kōke‘e State Park has about 45 miles (72 km) of hiking trails. Also in the park is the Kōke‘e Natural History Museum, which provides numerous exhibits on the region’s native flora and fauna as well as a great display on hurricanes. The Museum also has a gift shop that sells books and maps.
After passing the Kōke‘e Lodge and Natural History Museum, Waimea Canyon Drive (Hwy. 550) climbs up through native forest, past the round dome of the Kōke‘e Air Force Station to the Kalalau Lookout (at Mile Marker 18).
Perched atop Kōke‘e’s coastal cliffs, the Kalalau Lookout provides stunning views of Kaua‘i’s hidden treasure, the western shore’s fabled Nāpali Coast, where steep green ramparts laced with waterfalls rise up from the ocean into steep spires and castle-like turrets standing watch over the remote Nāpali valley of Kalalau. Kalalau Valley is accessible only by boat or by the 11-mile (18-km) trail that begins at the western end of Kūhiō Highway (Route 560) on Kaua‘i’s northern shore.
About 1 mile (1.6 km) past the Kalalau Lookout is Pu‘u-o-Kila Lookout, at an elevation of 4,176 feet (1,273 m) above sea level. Pu‘u-o-Kila (“Kila’s Hill”[112]) provides stunning views of Kalalau Valley and the Nāpali Coast. Place Names of Hawaii (1974) states that, “Kila, the favorite son of Moikeha, a ruling chief of O‘ahu and direct descendant of Wākea, the first man, is the hero of many legends, most of which recount a journey to Kahiki; in some versions he was a chief of Kaua‘i.”[113]
Pu‘u o Kila Lookout is also the beginning of the Pihea Trail, which follows the valley rim for about 1 mile (1.6 km) and then heads into the Alaka‘i Swamp. The beginning of the trail follows the scar of a 1954 attempt by Hawai‘i’s Territorial Government (using prison labor) to build a road along the valley rim and then down to Hā‘ena on Kaua‘i’s north shore.
Two popular festivals take place each year at Kōke‘e. The Banana Poka Festival takes place each May and is dedicated to raising awareness about aggressive, non-native species that threaten the native ecosystems in the Hawaiian Islands. One of these invasive species is the Banana Poka vine (Passiflora mollissima), which produces edible fruits that are eaten by wild pigs. The pigs then spread the seeds of the non-native vine, which now blankets large areas of native forest and strangles native trees.
Another popular annual event at Kōke‘e is the Eō E Emmalani I Alaka‘i Festival, which takes place each October and includes a hula program commemorating Queen Emma’s 1870 journey up to the highlands forests of the Alaka‘i Swamp and Kōke‘e. Accompanying Queen Emma was her sizable retinue including hula dancers and musicians. Guided by an elderly Hawaiian named Kaluahi, the group stopped at the edge of a valley known as Kauaikananā, (“The rain defied.”[114])
The group rested while music and hula dancing entertained the Queen, who also recited chants.[115] At this point the horses had to be left behind and the group descended on foot into the valley toward the Alaka‘i. The first night was spent at Waineki (“Bulrush water”[116]) in the Aiponui forest, where a platform made from branches of ‘ōhi‘a lehua(Metrosideros species) was built for the Queen.[117]
The royal party, including Queen Emma’s retinue of hula dancers and musicians, eventually reached the end of the trail where the Kilohana Overlook provided spectacular views of Wainiha Valley and Kaua‘i’s north shore. Kilohana means “Lookout Point.”[118]. In honor of the mountain journey the queen’s Lāwa‘i estate was renamed Mauna Kilohana.(See National Tropical Botanical Garden above).
After Queen Emma returned from her mountain journey, a large lū‘au (Hawaiian feast) was held for her in Waimea. The lū‘au took place on January 29, 1871 at the Kapuniai residence of Kaikio‘ewa, the former Governor of Kaua‘i.[119] This house was built in 1830 above the old Waimea dispensary, and today serves as the home of the pastor of the Waimea United Church of Christ.
[Kōke‘e State Park / Alaka‘i Swamp, 808-335-9975, Waimea Canyon Drive (Highway 550), open 10-4 daily.]
[Kōke‘e Natural History Museum, 808-335-9975, Kōke‘e State Park, Waimea Canyon Drive (Hwy. 550) from Kekaha, open 10-4 daily, www.aloha.net/c.kokee/]
Awa‘awapuhi Trail
One of the most awesome views on Kaua‘i is seen from atop the narrow ridge at the end of Kōke‘e’s Awa‘awapuhi Trail. At the end of the trail is a narrow ridge just a couple of feet wide that provides dizzying views on both sides where the cliffs drop straight down for thousands of feet.
On the right side is Awa‘awapuhi Valley, and on the left side is Nu‘alolo Valley. Both of these verdant valleys wind their way down to the cobalt blue Pacific Ocean.
Nu‘alolo Trail
Nu‘alolo Trail winds its way through native forest and along the canyon edge overlooking the Nāpali Coast. The trailhead begins off Kōke‘e Road just before the turnoff to the Park headquarters.
The first ¼-mile (.4 km) of the Nu‘alolo trail is relatively steep, and enters into the Ku‘ia National Area Reserve. The trail then begins a steady descent, entering a wetter forest area and traveling along a ridge. This part of the trail is known as Nu‘alolo Bench Trail.
Around the 3-mile (4.8-km) mark, the trail intersects with Nu‘alolo Cliff Trail, which connects with Awa‘awapuhi Trail (see above). Following further along the Nu‘alolo Trail leads to Lolo Vista Point, which provides great views of Nu‘alolo Valley.
Part II: Kaua‘i History
Mythology and Pre-Contact History of Kaua‘i
Wākea and Hāloa
The Menehune
Menehune Ditch—Kīkī-a-Ola
The Old Way of Life
Taro—The Hawaiian Staff of Life
Poi
Hula Heiau—Sacred Hula Training Site of Ancient Hawai‘i
The Origins of Hula
Traditions of Hula
Sacred Heiau of Wailua
‘Oahi—The Fire Throwing Ceremony
‘Alekoko (Menehune) Fishpond
Inter and Intra Island Struggles
King Kaumuali‘i and the Invasion Attempts of King Kamehameha I
Kekaiha‘akūlou—Queen Deborah Kapule
Humehume—Leader of Kaua‘i’s Last Rebellion
Prince Jonah Kūhiō—Kaua‘i’s Native Son
Queen Emma’s Journey to the Alaka‘i
Western Contact—Explorers, Russians, and Whalers
The Arrival of Captain Cook—First Landfall at Waimea
Ships Visiting Kaua‘i in the 1700’s
Russian Forts on Kaua‘i
The Whaling Era
Missionaries and Churches
Kaua‘i’s Missionaries
Gulick-Rowell House
The Wai‘oli Mission Station
The Wilcox Legacy
Sugar
Early Days
Kōloa
Immigration
Plantations and Mills
Līhue Sugar Plantation
Kīlauea Sugar Company
Grove Farm Sugar Plantation
McBryde Sugar Plantation
Kilohana
The Rice Era
Rice Farming
Kaua‘i’s First Cattle Ranch
Movies on Kaua‘i—Frank Sinatra, Elvis Presley, and John Wayne
The Story of Princeville
Kaua‘i History
Mythology / Pre-Contact History
Wākea and Hāloa
Polynesian legends describe how kalo (taro) existed even before the first humans. An ancient chant recounts how Wākea, the god of the sky, had to bury his first son because the child was born as a shapeless mass. The next day a taro plant grew up from the location and Wākea named the plant-child Hāloa-naka (“Long, trembling stem”).
Wākea’s second son was a boy that Wākea named Hāloa-naka-lau-kapalili (“Long-stalk-quaking-trembling-leaf stem”). Hāloa was considered to be the first human, thus the taro plant was considered the oldest ancestor of all humans.
The Menehune
The legend of the Menehune describes an ancient race of Kauaians who were very small, but very skilled, and with a supernatural strength. The Menehune were said to have built many structures, including roads, dams, ‘auwai (irrigation canals), and heiau (sacred places of worship)—and everything they built was constructed in a single night.
Each Menehune was a master of a certain craft and had one special function they accomplished with great precision and expertise. The Menehune would set out at dark to build something, and if they failed to complete the project in one night it would be abandoned.
There remains some mystery surrounding the exact origin of the stories about Menehune. Some speculate the word Menehune comes from the word “manahune,” or “common people” (common laborers), referring to the early Marquesan[120] settlers of Hawai‘i who were later dominated by Tahitian settlers, and made to perform the hardest work, including stonework.
The term “Menehune” may have been a reference not to the Marquesan settlers’ small size but instead to their lower status in the social system, leading to a myth about a small race of people. This is just one possible explanation of the still very mysterious story of the Menehune.
Menehune Ditch—Kīkī-a-Ola
The Menehune Ditch, located just above Waimea town, is a remarkable feat of engineering and stonework built to bring water from the upper Waimea River to the lo‘i kalo (taro patches) in the valley.
As the name implies, Menehune Ditch is said to have been built by the legendary ancient race of people known as Menehune. The Hawaiian name for the Menehune Ditch is Kīkī-a-Ola, which translates to “Container [Acquired] by Ola,”[121] referring to the chief who ordered the building of the watercourse (the “channel”), which was said to have been constructed in a single night.
Just a small section of Menehune Ditch remains today, measuring about 50 feet long by two feet wide. The aqueduct originally spanned several miles and had walls that were an estimated 24 feet high, with a footpath along the top.[122]
The stones of the Menehune Ditch, some of which are 3 feet wide, 5 feet long, and 3 feet deep, are flanged and fitted so that the smooth, flattened surfaces fit closely together, some with a peg in one stone that fits into a whole in another stone. This type of cut and dressed stonework is not found anywhere else in the Hawaiian Islands. The origins and methods used in the construction of the Menehune Ditch remain a mystery.
Some researchers theorize that the Menehune Ditch was built by the first native Hawaiians, the early Marquesan settlers who arrived in Hawai‘i about A.D. 200 to 800.[123] These first settlers of the Hawaiian Islands may have been responsible for the unique method of stonework used on the Menehune Ditch, since this type of craftsmanship is not seen in the projects of later Tahitian settlers, who began arriving in the Hawaiian Islands around A.D. 1200.
The Old Way of Life
Taro—The Hawaiian Staff of Life
Hawaiians grew taro for centuries before Western contact was established by Captain Cook in 1778. Taro is an ancient crop, mentioned in Chinese sources dating to 100 B.C. It was eaten in ancient Egypt and later in many other places around the globe, including Africa, Indonesia, and Central America. It was only in the Hawaiian Islands, however, that taro cultivation reached intensive levels, with as many as 300 varieties grown from only about twelve original varieties brought to Hawai‘i by the early Polynesian settlers on their voyaging canoes.
The taro plant may reach heights of more than three feet, with large heart-shaped lū‘au (leaves) that arise in a cluster from an underground corm that is similar to a large potato. In ancient times, most taro varieties were grown for poi production, and were distinguished from one another by variations petioles (leaf stems) and the corms. Taro corms may be bluish lavender, purple, red, white, or yellow.
Taro was a staple food of the Polynesians, and all parts of the taro plant are edible when cooked, including the lū‘au. A pudding-like mix known as kūlolo was made by sweetening grated taro corm with kō (sugarcane) and mixing it with the grated flesh and water of niu (coconut). This mixture was wrapped in leaves of kī (ti), and baked in an imu (underground earthen oven).
Taro also had numerous other important uses to the ancient Hawaiians, including as a bait for ‘ōpelu fish (mackerel scad), an adhesive to hold pieces of kapa (tapa) barkcloth together, a dye used to color kapa barkcloth, and numerous medicinal uses.
One medicinal formulation including taro was used as a purgative, and was prepared by mixing the corm of taro with the sap of nuts of kukui (candlenut). The sap of the taro leaf stem was applied to cuts in order to help stop the bleeding and begin the healing process.
Offshoots of a mature taro plant are known as ‘ohā, and grow in a circle around the parent plant. The ‘ohā eventually grow into mature taro plants producing their own circle of ‘ohā. In this way a single taro plant may eventually produce enough offshoots to fill a whole lo‘i kalo (taro patch). The ever-widening circle of ‘ohā is called the ‘ohana, and serves as a model for the extended Hawaiian family, also known as ‘ohana.
Taro was one of the most important crops of ancient Hawai‘i. Using well-engineered canals called ‘auwai, water was diverted from rivers into lo‘i kalo, the large ponds where taro was grown. The water was then channeled back into the stream. This irrigation process continues today, and some of the original ‘auwai are still in use.
Poi
In ancient Hawai‘i, the poi making process involved using a sharpened shell of an ‘opihi (limpet) or another shell or a stone to peel the cooked taro corm. The corm was then broken up and mashed with a stone poi pounder as small amounts of water were added to prevent sticking.
Calabashes to hold poi were made from ipu (bottle gourds), while bowls to hold poi were made from particular types of wood, including the native kou tree as well as the Polynesian-introduced milo and kamani trees. These species were preferred for calabashes because their wood, unlike koa, does not have tannic acid that spoils the poi’s flavor. During journeys, poi was stored in lau hala (leaves of the hala tree), and these food bundles were known as holo ‘ai.
The most common poi pounder used in ancient times was the pōhaku ku‘i ‘ai, which had a flared base and a narrow neck with a knob on top to keep the hand from slipping. Another style of poi pounder, which was used on Kaua‘i, was the pōhaku ku‘i ‘ai puka, often referred to as a ring pounder because of the hole through the center of the handle that forms an arch that is gripped with the thumbs of both hands.
Poi was pounded on papa ku‘i ‘ai (poi boards), which were usually made from the trunk of the ‘ulu (breadfruit tree).
Hula Heiau—Sacred Hula Training Site of Ancient Hawai‘i
In pre-contact times, hula dancers and chanters came to Kaua‘i’s north shore from throughout the Hawaiian Islands, and perhaps from throughout Polynesia, to receive intense training from a kumu hula (hula master) in the sacred arts of Hawaiian hula and mele (chanting).
According to legend, the first hula occurred when Pele, the goddess of fire and volcanoes, wanted her sisters to entertain her with song and dance. Only Pele’s youngest sister, Hi‘iaka, would comply, and she performed gracefully and powerfully for Pele to the amazement of all. Today hula is a beautiful art form and culturally significant practice that embraces and perpetuates Hawaiian history, legends, and culture.
Two heiau (sacred areas) are located at the base of the cliffs just above the shoreline of Kē‘ē Beach on Kaua‘i’s north shore. One of the heiau at Kē‘ē is known as Ka-ulu-Paoa (“The inspiration [of] Paoa”[124]), referring to a legend regarding the Kaua‘i chief Lohi‘au and his friend Paoa, who trained in the art of hula at the site beneath the lava cliffs.
Nearby to Ka-ulu-Paoa is another heiau, known as Ka-ulu-o-Laka (“The inspiration of Laka”[125]). A flat area and the remnants of a stone wall are all that remain of this important heiau dedicated to the hula goddess Laka, who is said to have begun her hula at this location. This is also said to be where the volcano goddess Pele first fell in love with the handsome Lohi‘au.
Towering above the two heiau is the mountain peak called Makana (“Gift”[126]), a north shore landmark. A large rock located along the Kē‘ē shoreline at the base of the trail is known as Kilioe. The deeply-grooved basalt boulder is considered a pōhaku piko, where a baby’s piko (umbilical cord) is placed to help ensure a long and healthy life for the child. The hula heiau site at Kē‘ē is an important cultural area still revered for its place in Hawaiian history as well as its continuing mana (spiritual power).
Just beneath the peak of Makana and the sacred hula heiau is Kē‘ē Beach, one of the north shore’s most scenic beaches. Known for its crystalline clear blue waters as well as its prime location, Kē‘ē is the gateway to the majestic cliffs of the Nāpali Coast.
According to Hawaiian legend, the body of the Kaua‘i chief Lohi‘au was placed in a cave on a cliff near the beach after Lohi‘au died of his love for the volcano goddess Pele. Hi‘iaka (Pele’s sister) and her friend Wahine‘oma‘o (“Green woman”[127]) ascended the cliff and used prayers and herbs to bring Lohi‘au back to life, causing three rainbows to appear in the sky.
A fringing reef surrounding Kē‘ē Beach provides a great protected swimming area unless the waves beyond the reef are too large. Nearby is the trailhead leading to the spectacular cliffs and spires of the Nāpali Coast. The Kalalau Trail leads over a rugged eleven miles, climbing and descending along the weather-worn coastline to the remote Kalalau Valley.
The Origins of Hula
Hula and mele chants are the ancient way that Hawaiians tell their stories, pay reverence to nature, and unite mind, body and spirit with all of creation. The essence of hula is to go inward, to touch one’s center. Dancers are especially aware of their feet touching the earth, and of the earth itself, which is felt to be the source of the power of the dance. Hula and mele are also a celebration of the beauty of the heart of the Hawaiian people, their love and aloha.
The two main forms of hula are ‘auana and kahiko. ‘Auana is the more modern style of hula, which is characterized by undulating movements and is usually accompanied by a Hawaiian band. Kahiko, which means ancient, is the older and more traditional form of hula.
In kahiko, an invocation precedes each dance, and the women often wear knee-length skirts made from flat green leaves of kī (ti). They may also wear a necklace made from the polished nuts of the kukui tree, or lei ‘ā‘ī (draping vines or flowers). Bracelets of ferns around their wrists and ankles are known as kūpe‘e. The lei po‘o encircles the dancer’s head, which is traditionally graced with long, dark flowing hair.
Hula and mele help Hawaiians remember their origins and give thanks for all of the many natural wonders that enrich their world, including the birds, fish, flowers, trees, mountains, streams, ocean, wind and sky. Chants are enhanced by hula, and both are integral parts of Hawaiian spirituality that carry on the ancient legends and history of the Hawaiian people and help Hawaiians retain a connection to their past.
Hula brings forth the meanings of the chants, similar to how the form of poetry may give life to a poem. Performed by those trained in the art, hula and mele are infused with all the power and history of the Hawaiian people, telling tales of migrations, genealogies, myths, customs and traditions. There are stories of longing for loved ones and stories of grief over deaths, stories of heroic explorations and stories of love. The Hawaiian culture is sustained by this oral tradition captured in the lyrics of the chants.
Traditions of Hula
Traditional instruments that accompany hula include the pahu hula, a drum made from the trunk of a coconut or breadfruit tree, with a drumhead made of sharkskin. Drumming sticks to keep beat are called lā‘au ho‘okani pahu. Also used are pū‘ili (split bamboo rattles) and ‘ulī‘ulī, gourd rattles that contain seeds and are adorned at the top with colorful feathers.
Dancers gather the lacy pala‘ā fern and most frequently the palapalai fern, and since post-contact times the hardier laua‘e fern. The forest plants used in hula are symbolic—the palapalai fern is a representation of the hula goddess Laka; pala‘ā is an incarnation of Pele’s sister, Hi‘iaka; and blossoms of ‘a‘ali‘i symbolizes strength.
Hula students learn about the ‘āina, and how to respect and care for the ferns and flowers. Plants are conserved for future generations, and never taken by the roots. The dancers give thanks to the source of the plants, the fragrant maile and leaves of kī (ti) and woodland ferns, and ask permission for their use, paying reverence to Laka, the goddess of the forest and hula, as well as other ancient (kahiko) Hawaiian gods. Today many hālau also thank the god of Christianity.
I le‘a ka hula i ka ho‘opa‘a.
The hula is pleasing because of the drummer.
The lesser details that one pays little attention to are just as important as the major ones.
Although the attention is given to the dancer, the drummer and chanter play an
important role in the dance.
‘Ōlelo No‘eau[128]
Sacred Heiau of Wailua
Wailua, on Kaua‘i’s east side, was a political and religious center of Kaua‘i in ancient times. It was also home to Hawaiian royalty and chiefs, and the site of numerous heiau (sacred places of worship).
An ancient trail along the course of the Wailua River led to six different heiau aligned from the shoreline to the top of the island at Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale. The chiefs traveled up through the groves of native koa, sandalwood, and ‘ōhi‘a lehua trees to finally reach the small plateau atop Wai‘ale‘ale’s summit where a heiau named Ka‘awakō (“The kava drawn along”[129]) was dedicated to the Hawaiian god Kāne, the spirit of the water and the lord of the forests. It is said that Kāne remains there today beneath the clouds of Wai‘ale‘ale.
Hauloa (“Dew of life”[130]) is a large heiau located at the mouth of the Wailua River, and is thought to have included a pu‘uhonua, or place of refuge. The religious center at Hauloa was Hikina-a-ka-lā (“Rising of the sun”[131]), located where the sunrise first touches the island on Kaua‘i’s eastern shore each morning. The altar at Hauloa is said to be the site of the first human sacrifice on Kaua‘i.[132]
Hikina-a-ka-lā was a stone enclosure about 395 feet long and 63 feet wide. Built an estimated 1,200 years ago, Hikina-a-ka-lā was oriented to Hōkūpa‘a (“Immovable star”[133]), the Polynesians’ name for the North Star. Māla‘e Heiau is located near Hauloa at the mouth of the Wailua River, and is one of Kaua‘i’s oldest heiau and also the largest, encompassing about two acres, with a stone structure measuring 273 by 324 feet. The walls of the heiau were constructed up to ten feet high and thirteen feet thick at the base tapering to eight feet wide at the top.
According to legend, Māla‘e Heiau was built about 1,500 years ago by the ancient race of people known as Menehune, and is said to be an example of the Menehune trait of forming a single line of people many miles long to pass rocks from one person to the next. A ledge lined the heiau’s inner wall, providing a place to sit and watch the events occurring within the heiau.
Deborah Kapule, Kaua‘i’s last queen as the wife of King Kaumuali‘i used Māla‘e Heiau as a cattle pen after she converted to Christianity. In the late 1800’s and early 1900’s, the rocks of Māla‘e Heiau were taken by the sugar companies for use in construction projects. More recently, volunteers have worked to restore the ancient sacred site.
Holoholokū Heiau, named after a kahuna,[134] is located on the north side of the Wailua River, was a luakini where human sacrifices were performed. Holoholokū Heiau is one of Kaua‘i’s oldest heiau, and is relatively small, measuring about 20 by 40 feet. The pōhaku hānau (birthstones) on the western side of the site is where high chiefs were born, including Kaua‘i’s King Kaumuali‘i. A nearby pōhaku (stone) was where the baby’s piko (umbilical cord) was left to ensure the child’s health.
Poli‘ahu Heiau is located on the south side of Kuamo‘o Road just up from Holoholokū Heiau, and beneath Kālepa Ridge and the peak of Mauna-kapu (“Sacred mountain”[135]). Considered the sister heiau to Māla‘e Heiau, Poli‘ahu is 242 feet long by 165 feet wide, and the site of ancient religious ceremonies led by a kahuna (high priest).
The overthrow of the kapu, or traditional Hawaiian religious system, in 1819 led to the dismantling of Poli‘ahu’s religious structures, which included a three-story ‘anu‘u (wooden oracle tower) as well as a lele (raised altar platform), hale pahu (temple drum house), and a hale umu, where temple fires were maintained and offerings were prepared. In ancient days, the ringing of the nearby pōhaku kani (bellstone) could be heard throughout the valley, signaling that a royal birth had occurred.
The bellstone may also have been used to warn of approaching danger, such as invading warriors in canoes. Poli‘ahu’s expansive view of the eastern Kaua‘i’s shoreline includes Māla‘e Heiau, and it is likely that communication took place between the two locations in ancient times.
‘Ōahi—The Fire Throwing Ceremony
On Kaua‘i’s north shore, Hawaiian royalty marked special occasions with the ‘ōahi (fire throwing) ceremony, which involved throwing burning logs of native hau and pāpala trees into the seaward winds blowing off the shoreline cliffs of Makana, Mākua and Kāmaile. Carried by the strong winds, the firebrands soared out over the water and showered sparks into the sea to the delight of crowds that arrived in canoes from as far away as Ni‘ihau. People in canoes beneath the cliffs attempted to catch the burning embers and sometimes tattooed themselves with the fiery logs to commemorate the event.
The fire-throwing ceremony began in ancient days and was also done during the post-contact period. After visiting Hanalei in 1860, Theo Davies described watching “...several natives climb to the summit of a stupendous and almost perpendicular peak and taking light dry stakes about six feet long, ignite them at both ends, and throw them far out and the wind carries them backwards and forwards until they reach the sea.”[136]
‘Alekoko (Menehune) Fishpond
The ‘Alekoko Fishpond, commonly called Menehune Fishpond, is located along a bend in the Hulē‘ia Stream just above Nāwiliwili Harbor. Constructed of earth and faced with stone, the 900-foot levee was built for the purpose of trapping and raising fish.
Building the massive ‘Alekoko Fishpond was a remarkable engineering feat that is attributed to the legendary ancient race of Menehune. The huge aquaculture facility is said to have been built in a single moonlit night by a 25-mile-long, double row of Menehune who passed rocks to each other all the way from the Makaweli Quarry in Waimea.
According to legend, the chief ‘Alekoko requested that two ponds be constructed—one for him and one for his sister Hāhālua. The Menehune agreed to build the ponds but told ‘Alekoko that no one must look while the work was being completed. When ‘Alekoko could not resist the urge to look out during the night, the Menehune immediately stopped their work and washed their bloody hands in the river, giving the fishpond the name ‘Alekoko, which means“Bloody ripples.”[137]
The walls of ‘Alekoko Fishpond are about four feet thick and five feet high. In the 1800’s, two of the three gaps in the levee were filled in by rice farmers. Makaweli means “Fearful features.”[138]
Inter and Intra Island Struggles
King Kaumuali‘i
Born: c.1780.
Died: 1824.
Parents: Kā‘eokūlani [Kā‘eo] (father) and Kamakahelei (mother).
Grandparents: Kekaulikenuiahumanu [Kekaulike] and Holau (parents of Kā‘eokūlani [Kā‘eo]).
Sons: Prince George Kaumuali‘i (also known as Humehume); Keali‘iahonui.
Grandchildren: Queen Kapi‘olani; Virginia Kapo‘oloku Po‘omaikelani; and Esther Kinoiki Kekaulike (children of Kūhiō and Kinoiki).
Great grandchildren: Edward Keali‘ihonui, David Kawānanakoa; and Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana‘ole (children of David Kahalepouli Pi‘ikoi and Kinoiki Kekaulike).
Wife: Queen Deborah Kapule (Kekaiha‘akūlou).
King Kaumuali‘i and the Invasion Attempts of King Kamehameha I
King Kaumuali‘i was Kaua‘i’s last native ruler. Born in 1780 at the sacred royal Birthstone at Holoholokū Heiau in Wailua, Kaumuali‘i was the son of Kā‘eokūlani [Kā‘eo] and Kamakahelei.[139] Kā‘eokūlani first became king of Maui and in the late 1870’s also became the ruler of Kaua‘i, replacing Keawe.
Kaumuali‘i’s mother, Kamakahelei, was Kaua‘i’s ruling chiefess and a descendant of O‘ahu ali‘i (high chiefs). She was also said to possess the feared prayer known as Aneekapuahi, and her marriage to Kā‘eokūlani led to his unquestioned rule over Kaua‘i.[140]
When English Captain George Vancouver visited Waimea, Kaua‘i in 1792, he met the young Kaumuali‘i, who was twelve years old at the time. Arriving at Waimea Bay on March 9, 1792, Vancouver was impressed by Kaumuali‘i’s friendliness and intelligence. Kaumuali‘i was referred to as King George, after the English sovereign.[141] In the spring of 1793, the young prince Kaumuali‘i again met Vancouver.
Kā‘eokūlani [Kā‘eo] left Kaua‘i 1791, leaving as regent a chief named Inamo‘o. In 1794, Kaumuali‘i’s father, Kā‘eokūlani, died in a battle against the forces of Kalanikūpule on O‘ahu. Soon Inamo‘o also died, and Kaumuali‘i became the paramount ruler of Kaua‘i. The warriors of Kaumuali‘i fought against the warriors of the chief Keawe, the half-brother of Kaumuali‘i[142] and the grandson of the powerful O‘ahu chief, Peleiōhōlani.[143]
In February of 1796, when William Robert Broughton arrived at Waimea, Kaua‘i on the Providence, Keawe and Kaumuali‘i were still fighting to control Kaua‘i. Keawe had apparently gained control in the Waimea region, and he boarded the Providence, but hurried to shore when he saw the approaching fleet of Kaumuali‘i, who then spent the night aboard the ship.
King Kamehameha I launched his first invasion attempt on Kaua‘i in April of 1796, having already conquered the other Hawaiian Islands, and having fought his last major battle at Nu‘uanu on O‘ahu in 1795. Kaua‘i’s opposing factions were extremely vulnerable as they had been weakened by fighting each other. Keawe stated that he intended to join Kamehameha’s forces if attacked. The invasion fleet of King Kamehameha I left O‘ahu at midnight with an estimated 800 or more canoes and more than 8,000 soldiers.
About one-fourth of the way across the ocean channel between O‘ahu and Kaua‘i, a storm thwarted Kamehameha’s warriors when many of their canoes were swamped in the rough seas and stormy winds, and then were forced to turn back. Some of the advance troops made it to Kaua‘i and were killed when they reached shore. Kaua‘i remained unconquered.
By July of 1796, Keawe finally emerged victorious on Kaua‘i after two years of brutal fighting. Kaumuali‘i was taken captive and then allowed to roam freely on his own lands in Wailua. About one year later Keawe was killed by one of his own men, Ki‘ikīkī, the konohiki (headman) of the ahupua‘a of Wainiha, who had conspired with another man, Kāne‘ekau, to take control of Keawe’s supply of weaponry. After Keawe’s death, Kaumuali‘i seized Ki‘ikīkī’s weapons and became mō‘ī ‘ai moku (paramount ruler, or king) of Kaua‘i.
In 1804, King Kamehameha I moved his capital from Lahaina, Maui to Honolulu on O‘ahu, and continued planning an attack on Kaua‘i. Kamehameha’s forces for this second invasion attempt included about 7,000 Hawaiians along with about 50 foreigners (Europeans). Kamehameha’s troops were armed with muskets as well as eight cannons, 40 swivel guns, and other Western weaponry. Kamehameha’s massive fleet of double-hulled canoes was accompanied by 21 armed schooners.[144]
Kamehameha’s plans were thwarted again when an epidemic of ma‘i ‘ōku‘u (thought to be cholera) swept through the population, killing thousands of native Hawaiians. The sickness also infected Kamehameha, and many of his warriors died from the disease, including the prominent chief, Ke‘eaumoku Pāpa‘iaheahe. The sickness delayed for a second time Kamehameha’s goal of conquering Kaua‘i.
In a renewed effort for a large-scale attack on Kaua‘i, Kamehameha began assembling a formidable armada of sailing ships in Waikīkī, using foreigners to construct the vessels. The invasion never took place, however, because Kaua‘i’s King Kaumuali‘i ceded Kaua‘i to King Kamehameha in 1810 to avoid war. This allowed King Kamehameha I to declare a united Hawaiian Kingdom.
“Let us go and drink the water of Wailua, bathe in the water of Nāmolokama, eat the mullet that swim in Kawaimakua at Hā‘ena, wreathe ourselves with the moss of Polihale, then return to O‘ahu and dwell there.”
King Kamehameha I, inspiring his warriors
before launching an attack on Kaua‘i[145]
After King Kamehameha I died in 1819, Kaumuali‘i pledged his allegiance to King Kamehameha II (Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho), who apparently remained distrustful of Kaua‘i’s vassal ruler. In 1821, King Kamehameha II anchored his royal ship Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i (Pride of Hawai‘i) in Waimea Bay, and invited Kaumuali‘i aboard. After boarding the ship, Kaumuali‘i was taken prisoner and the ship sailed for O‘ahu.
On O‘ahu, the powerful Ka‘ahumanu, kuhina nui (premier) and former queen, married Kaumuali‘i to ensure the monarchy’s control over Kaua‘i. Kaumuali‘i passed away on O‘ahu in 1824.
Kekaiha‘akūlou—Queen Deborah Kapule
Around 1817, Kaua‘i’s King Kaumuali‘i married the beautiful chiefess Kekaiha‘akūlou, the daughter of the chiefess Haea and the high chief Hā‘upu. Kekaiha‘akūlou later became known as Queen Deborah Kapule,
In 1821, after King Kamehameha II took King Kaumuali‘i to O‘ahu and held him as a prisoner, Ka‘ahumanu married Kaumuali‘i to formally sever his ties to the former queen and any of his claims of leadership on Kaua‘i. Furthering her efforts to eliminate potential threats to her power, Ka‘ahumanu also married Keali‘iahonui, the son of Kaumuali‘i by another wife.
Despite the removal of her husband from power by King Kamehameha II, Deborah Kapule was loyal to the Hawaiian monarchy. When the forces of Kaumuali‘i’s son, Humehume, attacked the Waimea fort in 1824, Deborah Kapule arrived with her sword drawn to help fight against the rebels.
In 1824, Deborah Kapule married Kaumuali‘i’s half-brother, Simeon Kaiu, who was a devout Christian. Deborah officially became a member of the Christian church in 1825, and was one of the first Kaua‘i natives to learn how to read and write. She also supported a school of 50 students with two teachers.
In 1835, Deborah Kapule moved to Wailua with Simeon Kaiu and 16 other church members to found a new church on the current site of the Coco Palms Hotel. Unfortunately, Simeon Kaiu died soon after the move. About one year later Governor Kaikio‘ewa became jealous of the Deborah Kapule’s popularity and ordered her arrested and sent to Honolulu. An appeal to King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) by Reverend William Richards brought Deborah Kapule back to Kaua‘i in 1838. She was later excommunicated from the church due to an affair with Oliver Chapin, a married man, though she was reinstated in the church in the 1840’s.
Oliver Chapin and Deborah Kapule lived together in their house at Wailua until the end of the 1840’s. Deborah Kapule’s residence became well known among travelers as a nice place to rest. Fishponds were located nearby, and ferry service was provided across the Wailua River. Close by was Māla‘e Heiau, which Deborah Kapule had converted into a cattle pen.
In the 1850’s, Deborah Kapule was personally involved in the construction of the Waimea stone church, providing oxen to haul the large stones and then riding on horseback alongside the procession of rocks. Deborah Kapule, Kaua‘i’s last queen, passed away on August 26, 1853.[146]
Humehume—Leader of Kaua‘i’s Last Rebellion
Prince George Kaumuali‘i, also known as Humehume, was born about 1797 to King Kaumuali‘i and a commoner wife. As a child, Humehume was sent to the United States for an education, but the money given to the boy’s guardian to pay for his education was either squandered or lost. Humehume eventually enlisted in the U.S. Navy and was wounded during the War of 1812. Humehume later worked in the Boston Navy Yard and then studied at the Foreign Mission School in Cornwall, Connecticut.
On May 3, 1820, Humehume returned to Kaua‘i and was reunited with his father after many years apart. Humehume arrived on Kaua‘i aboard the Thaddeus, the same ship that brought the First Company of American missionaries to the Hawaiian Islands. Joyous at his son’s return, King Kaumuali‘i placed Humehume second in command and rewarded the captain of the Thaddeus with a valuable cargo of ‘iliahi (sandalwood), which could be sold for a high price in China.
In 1824, after King Kaumuali‘i passed away on O‘ahu, Humehume challenged the rule of King Kamehameha II(Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho) with a surprise attack on the fort at Waimea, Kaua‘i. The fort was successfully defended, and Humehume’s troops retreated to nearby Wahiawa and Hanapēpē. King Kamehameha II was away in England at the time of the attack, leaving kuhina nui (premier) Ka‘ahumanu in charge of the Hawaiian monarchy.
In response to Humehume’s rebellion, the well-armed troops of Ka‘ahumanu’s principal counselor, Kalanimoku, marched on Hanapēpē and the Wahiawa plains. Kalanimoku (1768-1827) was also known as Billy Pitt, Kalanimoku was the right hand man, treasurer and principal counselor (kālaimoku) to King Kamehameha I and to later to kuhina nui (premier) Ka‘ahumanu. Kalanimoku was present at the death of Captain Cook, and took the nickname of “Billy Pitt” after William Pitt, the English Prime Minister; guardian of young Liholiho (the future King Kamehameha II).
Commanding the warriors putting down the rebellion on Kaua‘i was Maui’s Governor Hoapili. These warriors included about 350 Maui soldiers and up to 1,000 from O‘ahu. On August 18, 1824 the warriors marched from Waimea toward Hanapēpē about two miles up the east side of Hanapēpē Valley.
Kalanimoku’s warriors easily defeated Humehume’s meager and ill-prepared forces, who were armed only with spears and relatively few muskets. An estimated 50 to 130 of Humehume’s group were killed, including women and children. It was said that many of the dead were left on the battlefield to be eaten by pigs, and thus the event is known as ‘Aipua‘a (“Pig eater”[147]).
Kalanimoku further avenged Humehume’s rebellious attack on the fort by searching out and slaughtering or deporting anyone remotely connected to the failed rebellion, including many Kaua‘i chiefs. Humehume, who had fled on horseback into the mountains with his wife and child, was captured about two weeks after his initial attack on the fort.
Ka‘ahumanu arrived on Kaua‘i on August 27, and soon replaced virtually all of Kaua‘i’s chiefs with chiefs from O‘ahu and Maui who were loyal to her and to King Kamehameha II.[148] Kaikio‘ewa, a cousin of King Kamehameha I, was appointed governor of Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau, replacing Governor Kanoa.
Even loyal Kaua‘i chiefs were taken from their positions of power, and were replaced by O‘ahu and Maui chiefs, most of whom were relatives of King Kamehameha I. Humehume remained imprisoned on O‘ahu until his death of influenza on May 3, 1826.
Prince Jonah Kūhiō—Kaua‘i’s Native Son
Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana‘ole Pi‘ikoi
Born: March 26, 1871.
Died: January 7, 1922, at age of 50.
Parents: David Kahalepouli Pi‘ikoi and Princess Esther Kinoiki Kekaulike (sister of Queen Kapi‘olani).
Brothers: David Kawānanakoa and Edward Keali‘ihonui.
Wife: Elizabeth Kahanu Ka‘auwai.
Grandparents: Kūhiō and Kinoiki (parents of Esther Kinoiki Kekaulike).
Great grandparents: King Kaumuali‘i and Kekelaokalani (parents of Kinoiki).
Prince Kūhiō was born on March 26, 1871 to David Kahelepouli Pi‘ikoi and Princess Esther Kinoiki Kekaulike near Hō‘ai Bay at Kukui‘ula (“Red light”[149]) west of Kōloa, Kaua‘i. Prince Kūhiō was the nephew of Queen Kapi‘olani (sister of Princess Esther Kinoiki Kekaulike), who adopted him, and the great grandson of Kaumuali‘i, the paramount ruler of Kaua‘i who ceded the island to King Kamehameha I in 1810 to avoid war.
Prince Kūhiō was born in the Kōloa region of Kaua‘i’s southern coast near Hō‘ai Bay in a grass house at an ancient fishing village called Kukui‘ula (“Red light”[150]). He was the youngest of three boys, all considered ali‘i (royalty) due to their royal descent from Kaua‘i’s paramount ruler (king) Kaumuali‘i. One brother, Edward Keali‘ihonui, died in his teens.
Jonah Kūhiō and his other brother David Kawānanakoa were adopted into the childless royal family of King Kalākaua and Queen Kapi‘olani after the boys’ father, David Kahalepouli Pi‘ikoi, died when Kūhiō was ten.
Kalaniana‘ole, means “The royal chief without measure,”[151] referring to the prince’s noble heredity, which includes the royal lineage of Kūhiō’s mother, Esther Kinoiki Kekaulike, who was appointed governor of Hawai‘i Island by King Kalākaua.
When Kūhiō was 13 years old, King Kalākaua declared Jonah and his brother David princes by royal decree with the intent that they would carry on the Kalākaua dynasty. King Kalākaua and Queen Kapi‘olani held an official coronation on February 12, 1883 at ‘Iolani Palace, and the jeweled royal crowns were carried by Prince Kūhiō and his brother DavidKawānanakoa.
Due to his cherubic and handsome looks, Prince Kūhiō was sometimes referred to as Prince Cupid, a name given to him in his youth by his French teacher. Prince Kūhiō attended the Royal School and Punahou School on O‘ahu, and then attended St. Matthew’s College in California before enrolling in the Royal Agricultural College in Cirencester, England. He then graduated from an English business school.
Prince Kūhiō was a master of the traditional Hawaiian art of lua (ancient Hawaiian form of martial arts). He also competed on school teams in the sports of football and track.
In 1884, Kūhiō was appointed to the Cabinet of the Hawaiian Kingdom by Kalākau to administer the Department of the Interior. With the support of King Kalākaua, Prince Kūhiō studied Japanese culture and government for one year inJapan. The king hoped the Prince would find a royal Japanese bride and form a marital alliance between the Hawaiian Islands and Japan.
Prince Kūhiō was named as presumptive heir to the throne by Queen Lili‘uokalani after she ascended to the throne in 1891, making Kūhiō the last royally-designated heir. After he returned to the Hawaiian Islands just before the Hawaiian monarchy was overthrown in 1893, Prince Kūhiō worked to restore Queen Lili‘uokalani to the throne.
In 1895 at the age of 24, Prince Kūhiō participated in a royalist uprising (a counter-revolution) against the Republicof Hawai‘i, and was arrested by the Provisional Government, charged with treason, and imprisoned for one year.
After his release from prison, Prince Kūhiō married Elizabeth Kahanu Ka‘auwai, a full-blooded Hawaiian chiefess who was the daughter of a Maui chief, and they took a trip to Africa. Disheartened by the events in the Hawaiian Islands, Prince Kūhiō joined the British Army in South Africa in the Boer War.
Prince Kūhiō was next in line to ascend to the throne after Princess Ka‘iulani passed away in 1899, but the restoration of the monarchy became more unlikely with each passing year.
Prince Kūhiō and his wife returned to the Hawaiian Islands in 1901. He helped organize the Republican Party in 1902 and that same year he was elected as the Territory of Hawai‘i’s second, non-voting delegate to the United States Congress (after Robert Wilcox), serving in the position for a total of 20 years (ten, two-year terms) until he died in 1922.
Prince Kūhiō helped to found the Order of Kamehameha in 1903 and the Hawaiian Civic Club of Honolulu in 1918. The Civic Club’s tradition of community involvement continues today.
Due to his political efforts to help Hawaiians and promote self-sufficiency among the native population, Prince Kūhiō was known as Ke Ali‘i Maka‘āinana, which means “Chief of the Commoners,” “Citizen Prince,” or “Prince of the People.”
Throughout his life, Prince Kūhiō worked to preserve the traditions and culture of native Hawaiians. One of Prince Kūhiō’s legacies was his inspired involvement in the passing of the Hawaiian Homestead Commission Act, which was enacted on July 9, 1921 to provide low-cost homestead and farming land to Hawaiians with at least 50% native Hawaiian ancestry based on blood quantum.
A total of 203,500 acres (82,354 ha) was designated as “available lands” for the program, but the sugar companies had lobbied to exclude all areas that were not used for sugar, which included most of the best agricultural land in the Hawaiian Islands. No money was available to develop the second-tier parcels and thus most of the lands were not used.
During the first 70 years after the passage of Hawaiian Homestead Commission Act of 1920, just 3,000 families received lands and many people who were on the original list of applications passed away before receiving land.
Of his political efforts, Prince Kūhiō stated, “The legislation proposed seeks to place the Hawaiian back on the soil, so that the valuable and sturdy traits of that race, peculiarly adapted to the islands, shall be preserved to posterity.”[152]
Prince Kūhiō’s home was called Pualeilani, which means “Flower from the wreath of heaven.” The home was located across Kalākaua Avenue from Kūhiō Beach Park.
Prince Kūhiō passed away due to heart disease on January 7, 1922 at the age of 50. He was given the last state funeral held for a Hawaiian ali‘i (royalty), and was laid to rest at the Royal Mausoleum in O‘ahu’s Nu‘uanu Valley.
Prince Kūhiō Park is located near the Prince Kūhiō’s birthplace on Kaua‘i’s southern shore west of Kōloa. The park features a pond and terraced stone walls, Hō‘ai Heiau, and a statue of the prince that was unveiled on June 17, 1928 with about 10,000 people in attendance.
Prince Kūhiō’s life is celebrated with an annual state holiday each year on Prince Kūhiō Day, the prince’s birthday, March 26. Prince Kūhiō Day is traditionally a day of canoe races and other local events, including a ceremony at PrinceKūhiō Park on Kaua‘i.
Kūhiō Beach Park in Waikīkī is named after Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana‘ole Pi‘ikoi, whose home fronting the beach was torn down in 1936. (See Kūhiō Beach Park; and Statue of Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana‘ole in O‘ahu section, Chapter 2; Prince Kūhiō Park/Hō‘ai Heiau in Kaua‘i section, Chapter 2; and Chapter 11: Timeline: 1871, March 26 forBiographical Sketch of Prince Kūhiō.)
Queen Emma
Born: 1836.
Died: April 25, 1885.
Parents: George Na‘ea and Fanny Kekelaokalani Young.
Husband: Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani (King Kamehameha IV).
Grandparents: John Young (‘Olohana) and Ka‘o‘ana‘eha (parents of Fanny Kekelaokalani Young).
Great grandparents: Keli‘imaika‘i (brother of King Kamehameha I) and Kaliko‘okalani (parents of Ka‘o‘ana‘eha).
Great great grandparents: Keōuakupuapāikalaninui [Keōuanui] and Keku‘iapoiwa II (parents of Keli‘imaika‘i).
Queen Emma’s Journey to the Alaka‘i
Emma Na‘ea, the future Queen Emma, was given the name Kalanikaumakeamano at birth. She was adopted by Dr. Thomas Charles Byde Rooke, and his wife, Grace Kamaikui Young Rooke, Emma’s maternal aunt. Dr. Rooke belonged to the Church of England.
Emma was the great-granddaughter of the brother of King Kamehameha I. In 1856, Emma became Hawai‘i’s queen as the wife of King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani). The royal newlyweds visited Kaua‘i in 1856 as part of a “Royal Progress” through the Hawaiian Islands. On May 20, 1858, they gave birth to Prince Albert Edward Kauikeaouli Leiopapa o Kamehameha, a godchild of England’s Queen Victoria.
King Kamehameha IV and Queen Emma returned to Kaua‘i in 1860, this time with two-year-old Prince Albert.[153] Tragically, Prince Albert passed away in 1862 at the tender age of four. His father, King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani), passed away in 1863 at the age of 29.
Queen Emma returned to Kaua‘i in 1870 and journeyed up to the highland forests of the Alaka‘i Swamp and Kōke‘e. Accompanying the queen was her sizable retinue including hula dancers and musicians, all guided by an elderly Hawaiian named Kaluahi.
The group rested while music and hula dancing entertained Queen Emma, who also recited chants.[154] The horses were then left behind as the group descended on foot into the valley toward the Alaka‘i. The first night was spent at Waineki (“Bulrush water”[155]) in the Aiponui forest where a platform for Queen Emma was made using branches of ‘ōhi‘a lehua.[156]
The royal party eventually reached the end of the trail where the overlook called Kilohana (“Lookout point”[157]) provided spectacular views of Wainiha Valley and Kaua‘i’s north shore. In honor of the mountain journey the queen’s Lāwa‘i estate was renamed Mauna Kilohana.
After Queen Emma returned from her mountain journey, she was the guest of honor at a large lū‘au (Hawaiian feast) in Waimea. The lū‘au took place on January 29, 1871 at the Kapuniai residence of Kaikio‘ewa, the former governor of Kaua‘i.[158] The house was built in 1830 above the old Waimea dispensary, and today serves as the home of the pastor of the Waimea United Church of Christ.
During the queen’s 1870 visit to Kaua‘i, she stayed at her 4,200-acre Lāwa‘i estate, which had been deeded to her by her aunt, Hikoni. Mauna Kilohana encompassed the entire ahupua‘a (natural watershed land division) of Lāwa‘i. Queen Emma’s large frame house at Mauna Kilohana was built in 1869. The thatched roof home was situated on a hill on the Kōloa side of the valley overlooking Lāwa‘i Bay.
Accompanied by George Norton Wilcox and William O. Smith, Queen Emma rode on horseback to an area upland of her estate to plan an irrigation ditch. George Norton Wilcox was the son of Wai‘oli missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox, and William O. Smith was the son of missionary doctor Dr. James Smith. At Mauna Kilohana, they surveyed a water source and planned the ditch to the queen’s estate.
Two men were hired to construct the two-mile-long ditch, which began functioning on March 11, 1871. Queen Emma then personally assisted in the planting of numerous native and Polynesian-introduced species such as kalo (taro), kī (ti), kō (sugarcane), pia (Polynesian arrowroot), hala, ‘ōhi‘a lehua, and hau along with many non-native other species, including rose apple, bamboo, mango, and bougainvillea.
After King Lunalilo passed away on February 3, 1874, Queen Emma put forth her claim to the throne of the Hawaiian kingdom, but David La‘amea Kalākaua was elected king. When the results were announced the Honolulu courthouse was attacked and ransacked and legislators were beaten. One delegate was thrown out of a window. The violence left many injured and one dead, and armed marines from American and British warships restored order.
The Lāwa‘i estate, Mauna Kilohana, was later leased by Queen Emma to Duncan McBryde, a Scot, who was also the district court judge.
Western Contact—Explorers, Russians, and Whalers
The Arrival of Captain Cook—First Landfall at Waimea
British explorer Captain James Cook first sighted the Hawaiian Islands in the dawn hours of January 18, 1778. Cook’s two ships, the HMS Resolution and the HMS Discovery, were kept at bay by the weather until the next day when they approached Kaua‘i’s southeast coast.
On the afternoon of January 19, native Hawaiians in canoes paddled out to meet Cook’s ships, and so began Hawai‘i’s contact with Westerners. This first encounter with the Hawaiians took place in the waters near Kīpū Kai. The Hawaiians traded fish and sweet potatoes for pieces of iron and brass that were lowered down from Cook’s ships to the Hawaiians’ canoes.
Cook then sailed along Kaua‘i’s southeastern coast searching for a suitable anchorage. His two ships remained offshore, but a few Hawaiians were allowed to come on board on the morning of January 20, before Cook continued on in search of a safe harbor.
On the afternoon of January 20, 1778, Cook anchored his ships near the mouth of the Waimea River on Kaua‘i’s southwestern shore. On January 20 at Waimea Bay, Cook went ashore with 12 armed marines. As they stepped ashore for the first time, Cook and his men were greeted by hundreds of Hawaiians who offered gifts of pua‘a (pigs), and mai‘a (bananas) and kapa (tapa) barkcloth.
Cook went ashore at Waimea three times the next day, walking inland to view Hawaiian hale (houses), heiau (sacred places of worship), and agricultural sites. At the time, Waimea was a thriving village with many thatched homes as well as lo‘i kalo (taro patches) and various other food crops such as niu (coconuts) and ‘ulu (breadfruit).
Cook’s crew traded iron and other items to the natives in return for food products including moa (chickens) as well as corms of kalo (taro). Cook’s men estimated Kaua‘i’s population to be about 30,000, with a total of about 300,000 people living throughout the Hawaiian Islands. Cook named the archipelago the Sandwich Islands in honor of his patron, the First Lord of the Admiralty, the Earl of Sandwich.
After leaving Kaua‘i, Cook sailed north in search of the “Northwest Passage,” an elusive (because it was non-existent) route from the Pacific Ocean to the Atlantic Ocean. On January 17, 1779, Cook returned to the Hawaiian Islands, sailing into Kealakekua Bay on the island of Hawai‘i. Less than one month later, on February 14, 1779, Cook and several of his men were killed in an encounter with the natives on the shoreline of Kealakekua Bay.
Ships Visiting Kaua‘i in the 1700’s
After Captain Cook established Western contact with the Hawaiian Islands in 1778, the next foreign ships to come to Kaua‘i were the Queen Charlotte under the command of Captain George Dixon, and the King George under the command of Nathaniel Portlock.
Both the Queen Charlotte and the King George were sponsored by the King George Sound Company, which had gained exclusive trading rights on America’s Northwest Coast in an attempt to avoid conflict with the East India Company and the South Sea Company. The two ships were on their way from America’s Northwest Coast to China when they arrived at Waimea Bay in 1786. George Dixon had been an armorer on the Discovery under Captain Cook, and Nathaniel Portlock had also sailed with Cook.
In 1779, the Grace arrived under the command of Captain William Douglas, who left two of his crew on Kaua‘i to search for sandalwood and left one deserting crew member behind on Ni‘ihau. In 1791, Captain John Kendrick on theLady Washington left three men on Ni‘ihau, instructing them to travel to Kaua‘i and search for sandalwood and pearls. Other men from Western ships also remained on Kaua‘i, and some of these Westerners became part of the entourage of Island chiefs.[159]
Captain George Vancouver arrived at Waimea Bay on March 9, 1792 in command of the Chatham and theDiscovery (not the same ship that Cook sailed). Vancouver had served under Captain Cook on Cook’s second Pacific voyage, and was Cook’s midshipman on his third voyage when Cook first found the Hawaiian Islands.
Vancouver returned in 1793 and 1794, bringing sheep, cattle, goats, and geese to the Hawaiian Islands along with a variety of seeds and plants. When William Robert Broughton arrived at Waimea Bay on the Providence in 1796, the future King Kaumuali‘i stayed on board overnight.
Russian Forts on Kaua‘i
In 1806, Kaua‘i’s King Kaumuali‘i offered to supply food to the Russians in exchange for pelts. The Aleutian Islands and Alaska provided the Russians with a profitable commerce during the second half of the eighteenth century, and the Hawaiian Islands provided a convenient stopping point for ships going to or from China, where the furs were sold.
The first ships of the Russian-American Company to come to Kaua‘i were the Nadezhda and Neva arriving in 1804. In 1815 the 210-ton, three-masted Russian ship Behring arrived under the command of Captain James Bennett. TheBehring was carrying sealskins (otter pelts) bound for the Russian-American Company’s headquarters at Sitka, Alaska, the capital of Russian-America.
After the Behring anchored at Waimea Bay and the captain went ashore, an unexpected southwest wind rapidly intensified and pushed the Behring broadside onto the shore. An estimated 2,000 Kauaians attempted unsuccessfully to save the vessel. King Kaumuali‘i had the valuable pelts on board the ship taken to his home near Makaweli.
The loss of the ship’s cargo caused the Russian-American Company to send Georg Anton Schäffer to Hawai‘i to retrieve the cargo or seek appropriate payment. After falling into disfavor on Hawai‘i and O‘ahu, Schäffer sailed to Kaua‘i. King Kaumuali‘i had ceded Kaua‘i to King Kamehameha I in 1810 to avoid war. As Kaua‘i’s vassal ruler, Kaumuali‘i conspired with Schäffer to reclaim the island from King Kamehameha. Kaumuali‘i also wanted to launch expeditions against other Hawaiian Islands that he felt he had a hereditary right to rule, including O‘ahu, Moloka‘i, Lāna‘i, and Maui.
Kaumuali‘i signed an agreement with Schäffer that put Kaua‘i under the protection of the Russian Empire, and promised Schäffer land in the islands that were to be conquered, including half of O‘ahu. Schäffer would also get rights to all of the valuable sandalwood growing on O‘ahu.
Ships, ammunition, and men would be supplied by Schäffer, and Kaumuali‘i would supply 500 men as well as food and provisions for the forces. Kaumuali‘i also gave Schäffer Hanalei Valley in exchange for the ship Lydia. Schäffer began construction of a fort at the mouth of the Waimea River, and named it Fort Elizabeth, in honor of Empress Elizabeth (1779-1826), the consort of the Russian Emperor.[160]
A significant portion of Fort Elizabeth was completed by November of 1816, including the walls facing Waimea River and the ocean.[161] A Russian flag was raised over the fort and 38 cannons stood pointed at Waimea Bay to protect trading vessels arriving at the important anchorage. Fort Elizabeth stood up to 20 feet high and up to 17 feet wide at the base, with a total wall length of more than 1,200 feet.
Things changed quickly for Schäffer when Russian Lieutenant Otto von Kotzebue arrived in Hawai‘i on November 21, 1816, aboard the Russian Navy brig Rurik. Kotzebue repudiated the activities of Schäffer and informed King Kamehameha I that Schäffer did not have the support of the Russian Emperor.
In May of 1817, Kaumuali‘i was misled to believe that Russia and America were at war. This was part of a plot by Americans in Hawai‘i who wanted to make Kaumuali‘i fearful of his association with Schäffer, which could put Kaumuali‘i in a precarious position as an enemy of America. The plan against Schäffer worked perfectly, and Kaumuali‘i promptly renounced his previous agreement with Schäffer, who was then run out of Waimea.
Schäffer soon left for O‘ahu on the Kodiak, which was leaking badly. The ship took about five days to reach Honolulu, barely making the voyage as the crew continuously pumped out water. After reaching O‘ahu, Schäffer was told not to come ashore unless he wanted to be taken prisoner. Fortunately for Schäffer, Captain Isaiah Lewis on the American vessel Panther happened to sail into port. Lewis had been treated medically by Schäffer just one year earlier, and provided Schäffer safe passage from Hawai‘i.
Schäffer later emigrated to Brazil where he purchased a title for himself, assuming the title of Count von Frankenthal. The remains of Fort Elizabeth at the mouth of the Waimea river include sections of the lava rock walls up to ten feet tall as well as informational displays.
The Whaling Era
The Nantucket whaling ship Maro came to the Hawaiian Islands in 1820 under the command of Joseph Allen, who later discovered rich whaling waters off Japan. Soon hundreds of whaling ships were headed for the area to exploit the bountiful sperm whale (Physeter macrocephalus) resource, and the Hawaiian Islands became a major staging area, centrally located between the American west coast and Japan.
The first whaling ship to visit Kōloa arrived in 1826, and Kōloa increasingly became a major port for Yankee whalers as well as interisland steamers. In the 1830’s, up to 60 whaling ships visited Kōloa each year, making it the third busiest port in the Islands after Honolulu and Lahaina. Some products that were not available at other ports were available in Kōloa, sometimes at lower prices.
Whaling in the Pacific Ocean continued strongly for the next few decades, with more than 500 whaling ships visiting Hawaiian ports in 1859. That same year, oil was discovered in Pennsylvania and soon became a new source of lubricants for industry. This was the beginning of the end of the whaling era.
Missionaries and Churches
Kaua‘i’s Missionaries
The First Company of American missionaries sailed from Boston on August 23, 1819 on the 85-foot brigThaddeus, under the command of Andrew Blanchard. The Thaddeus arrived at Kailua-Kona on the island of Hawai‘i on March 31, 1820, and the missionaries began their congregational mission work in the Hawaiian Islands, then known as the Sandwich Islands.
On board the Thaddeus were missionaries Samuel and Nancy Ruggles as well as Samuel Whitney and his wifeMercy Partridge Whitney. Samuel Ruggles and Samuel Whitney continued on to Kaua‘i aboard the Thaddeus to reunite Humehume (Prince George Kaumuali‘i) with his father, King Kaumuali‘i. The Thaddeus arrived on Kaua‘i on May 3, 1820. Kaumuali‘i was exultant at the return of his son, and rewarded the missionaries by giving them land a residence.
The Ruggles and the Whitneys soon moved to Waimea and founded Kaua‘i’s first mission station. Samuel and Mercy Whitney remained on Kaua‘i for many years. By April of 1821 they had built a large, Western-style wooden house near the Waimea River, where they ran a school and held church services. Samuel frequently traveled around the island preaching and helping to establish other mission stations.
Dr. Thomas Holman was Kaua‘i’s first medical doctor, spending four months on Kaua‘i in 1821 with his wife Lucia, the brother of missionary Samuel Ruggles. Lucia Holman delivered babies for both the Ruggles and the Whitneys. Dr. Holman was later excommunicated from the church due to grievances brought against him by Reverend Hiram Bingham. The Holmans left the Hawaiian Islands on October 10, 1821, sailing back to Boston.
At the end of 1822, the Ruggles started a school in Hanapēpē. About six months later they left for Hilo and soon returned to the United States. Samuel Whitney produced Kaua‘i’s first refined sugar at a small mill he staffed with local Chinese immigrants. The Whitneys also saw to the construction of a large thatched church on the Waimea River’s western bank.
Hiram Bingham visited Kaua‘i in 1824, drawing sketches of the region and writing a memorable account of the attempt to save the royal yacht Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i after it became shipwrecked in Hanalei Bay. In 1829, Reverend Peter Gulick came to Kaua‘i to assist Samuel Whitney at Waimea. Gulick also traveled to Hanalei where he preached to about 1,200 native Hawaiians. William Patterson Alexander arrived on Kaua‘i in 1834 and established a mission station at Wai‘oli to serve the Hanalei region.
Kaua‘i’s first physician was Dr. Thomas Lafon (1801-1876), who earned his medical degree from Transylvania University in 1827 and was ordained at Marion College, Missouri in 1835. Lafon and his wife, Sophia Louisa Lafon, arrived in the Hawaiian Islands with the Eighth Company of American missionaries in 1837 and were initially assigned to the Kōloa mission, where Thomas served as a minister and teacher. When Dr. Lafon first landed at Kōloa, his medicinal supplies were accidentally dropped into the water, and Reverend Peter Gulick had the supplies unpacked and dried.
In 1839, Lafon was assigned to minister to the large, thatched church built in Līhu‘e by Governor Kakio‘ewa at the current site of the Līhu‘e Post Office and Bank of Hawai‘i. The church had 52 members. In 1841, Lafon resigned from the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions in protest over their continued acceptance of money from slaveholders. Lafon also served as the doctor for the Ladd & Company sugar plantation, which employed about 100 Hawaiians.
Medical missionary Dr. James Smith was stationed at Kōloa but served the whole island, being the only doctor on Kaua‘i for much of the 1840’s and 1850’s. Dr. Smith was known for his tireless efforts to come to the aid of those in need. (See Princeville section.) When a smallpox epidemic was killing thousands of people on the other Hawaiian Islands, Dr. Smith vaccinated virtually every person on Kaua‘i.
Reverend George B. Rowell arrived at the Wai‘oli mission station in 1843 with his wife Malvina Rowell after arriving in Honolulu in 1842 on the Sarah Abigail with the Tenth Company of American missionaries. George Rowell was born in New Hampshire, and had previously graduated from Amherst College and Andover Theological Seminary. Rowell became the minister at Wai‘oli, taking over the duties of Reverend William Patterson Alexander. Rowell was then reassigned to Waimea and moved in to the former home of Reverend Peter Gulick.
Rowell was expelled from the church by the American Board of Commissions for Foreign Missions, but soon opened a new Protestant church in Waimea called the Independent, or Makai Church. Rowell, who spoke fluent Hawaiian, served for 41 years on Kaua‘i, passing away on June 15, 1884.
When Abner and Lucy Wilcox along with their four sons sailed into Hanalei Bay in 1846 to work at the Wai‘oli mission station, the Rowells were transferred to the Waimea mission station. The Wilcoxes then served at Wai‘oli for the next 23 years, giving birth to four more boys. Edward Johnson served as minister at Wai‘oli after being ordained a preacher in 1848, and his wife Lois Johnson was also a teacher at Wai‘oli. The Johnson home was later moved and became the Hanalei Hotel.[162]
Gulick-Rowell House
Reverend Peter J. Gulick arrived in Hawai‘i with his wife and infant son in 1828. Though native Hawaiians had built Gulick a thatched home, he desired a drier structure, and so he began construction of a new house in Waimea in 1828, using quarried limestone, which was brought to the site by a team of oxen that had been caught in the mountains and harnessed for use as draft animals. Gulick paid his workers with bibles, textbooks, and goats.
Reverend Gulick was transferred to Kōloa in 1835, and his Waimea home was completed by Reverend George Rowell in 1846 after Rowell was transferred from the Wai‘oli mission in Hanalei to the Waimea mission.
Rowell increased the size of the home’s second story, extending it to cover the whole house. George and Malvina Rowell’s youngest daughter, Adelaide, was born in the house in 1853. Rowell constructed a barn nearby to the home, and his wife used the structure to teach classes to Hawaiian women. George Rowell was buried on the property after he passed away on June 1, 1884.
Today the Gulick-Rowell home remains standing, and is Hawai‘i’s oldest continuously occupied house. It is also a classic example of the New England style architecture that missionaries introduced to the Hawaiian Islands. The Gulick-Rowell home is a private residence, and tours are not available.
Original features in the home today include the large brick fireplace and the wood rafters and beams that are made from the now rare kauwila wood.
The Wai‘oli Mission Station
On July 15, 1834, Reverend William Patterson Alexander and his wife Mary Ann, along with their young son William DeWitt, arrived at Waimea Bay on Kaua‘i’s southwest shore. Five weeks later the Alexanders sailed to Kaua‘i’s north shore in Governor Kaikio‘ewa’s double-hulled canoe. Leaving at night, they sailed along the Nāpali coast and arrived the next morning at the mouth of Wai‘oli Stream in Hanalei Bay.
The Alexanders were the first “outsiders” to settle on Kaua‘i’s north shore, establishing a mission station at Waioli. Native Hawaiians at Wai‘oli had built a grass-thatched dwelling in anticipation of the arrival of the missionaries, and it became the Alexanders’ family’s home.
Kaua‘i’s Governor Kaikio‘ewa donated land at Wai‘oli for a school and church, and in April of 1835 Reverend Alexander oversaw the construction of a new pole-and-thatch meetinghouse to replace an earlier native-built structure that burned down just a few months before the Alexanders arrived. The new church meetinghouse was an open-sided building measuring about 90 feet by 40 feet and thatched with lau hala (leaves of the native hala tree).[163] Missionary Samuel Whitney of the Waimea mission station attended the dedication.[164]
In April of 1837, a Western-style, two-story, four-room mission house was completed at Wai‘oli was finished using native ‘ōhi‘a lehua timber from the nearby mountains. In 1841, the new Wai‘oli Church was completed, also built in the Western style, and timber-framed using logs of ‘ōhi‘a lehua. Coral from the ocean nearby provided lime for the masonry, and the church was plastered on the inside and outside.[165] The building’s hipped, split-pitch roof (thatched with lau hala), and four-sided lānai made the structure a blend of Hawaiian traditions and American architecture.[166]
In the tradition of English and colonial American missionary churches, a separate church belfry was also built, and a church bell arrived from Boston in 1843. Also arriving in 1843 were Reverend George B. Rowell and his wife Malvina. George Rowell took over ministerial duties from Reverend Alexander, serving at Wai‘oli until 1846 when Abner and Lucy Wilcox and their four young sons arrived to teach at the mission station. The Wilcoxes moved into the Wai‘oli mission house and the Rowells were transferred to Waimea, Kaua‘i.
For the next 23 years, Abner and Lucy Wilcox and their growing family lived in the Wai‘oli mission house. Abner Wilcox taught at the Wai‘oli Select School for Hawaiian boys, which sought the brightest and most promising students of the various schools on Ni‘ihau and Kaua‘i. The finest of these students were sent to Maui’s Lahainaluna Seminary, which had been established in 1831 as Hawai‘i’s first English school.
The spired green Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church, located just mauka (on the mountain side) of the main road in Hanalei, was built in 1912 by Sam, George, and Albert Wilcox in honor of their parents, Abner and Lucy Wilcox. Designed in the American Gothic style, the 1912 church is notable for its beautiful stained glass windows as well as its bell tower, which now holds the bell that was in the old Wai‘oli Belfry, which still stands just behind the church, along with the old Wai‘oli Church. Behind the trees is the original Wai‘oli Mission House, completed in 1837.
In 1921, an extensive restoration of the Wai‘oli Mission House and the old Wai‘oli Church was undertaken by Elsie and Mabel Wilcox and Lucy Etta Wilcox Sloggett, the grandchildren of Wai‘oli missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox. Prominent Honolulu architect Hart Wood[167] was chosen to oversee the restoration project. Wood’s plan encompassed the whole of the 20-acre site, including draining and leveling the adjacent area to create Wai‘oli Park.
In 1973, the 1837 mission house and 1841 Wai‘oli Church were placed on the National Register of Historic Places along with the 1912 Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church. When Hurricane ‘Iniki[168] struck Kaua‘i on September 11, 1992 it caused extensive structural damage to Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church, lifting the church off its foundations and damaging the church’s precious stained glass windows. After an extensive restoration, dedication ceremonies took place in April of 1994.
The Congregational hymns that are still sung by the Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church Choir in the Hawaiian language were originally translated by the early missionaries.
The Wilcox Legacy
The descendants of pioneering Wai‘oli missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox were significant in the history of Kaua‘i. Following is a summary of some of their major accomplishments.
Albert Spencer Wilcox (1844-1819), the fourth son of Wai‘oli missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox, was a member of the House of Representatives of the Hawaiian Kingdom from 1891 to 1892, and settled a stock ranch at Kilohana in Līhu‘e in 1898. Albert also helped to found the Samuel Mahelona Hospital in Kapa‘a in memory of his stepson, and helped establish the Kauikeōlani Children’s Hospital in Honolulu.
George Norton Wilcox (1839-1933), the second son of Wai‘oli missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox, developed Grove Farm into a major Kaua‘i sugarcane plantation. George was a member of every Hawaiian legislative body from 1888 until 1898, and was prime minister of the cabinet of King Kalākaua in 1892.
Samuel Whitney Wilcox (1847-1929), the fifth son of Wai‘oli missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox, became Sheriff of Kaua‘i in 1872, and served in that capacity for 25 years. He was also a member of the House of Representatives in 1901-1902 and a Senator from 1903 to 1907. Samuel had six children with Emma Washburn Lyman. In 1912, Sam, George, and Albert Wilcox built Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church in honor of their father.
Mabel Isabel Wilcox (1882-1976), the sixth child of Samuel and Emma Wilcox, was selected by the Territorial Board of Health as Kaua‘i’s first public health nurse in 1913 and helped establish the Samuel Mahelona Hospital in 1917. That same year, Mabel volunteered for duty in World War I and served for 18 months in Belgium and France. Mabel and her sister Elsie helped to found Kaua‘i’s Wilcox Hospital with funding provided by the trust of their uncle, George Norton Wilcox.
Elsie Hart Wilcox (1879-1954), the daughter of Samuel and Emma Wilcox, was Chairman of the Kaua‘i Board of Child Welfare and Commissioner of Education for twelve years. She resigned to take a post as the first woman Senator in the Territorial Legislature and served in that capacity for eight years.
Sugar
Early Days
Kōloa
Hawai‘i’s commercial sugar industry began on Kaua‘i’s south side in Kōloa in 1835 when partners William Ladd, William Hooper, and Peter Brinsmade organized as Ladd & Co. They began the sugarcane plantation on land originally leased from King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) for $300/year.
William Hooper was the manager of Kōloa Plantation, and the initial planting consisted of 25 acres of sugarcane and coffee. The Kōloa Plantation used techniques first developed in China to grind and process their sugarcane. The plantation also invented new methods of grinding, harvesting, and milling sugarcane, serving as the model for sugar plantations throughout the Hawaiian Islands.
Hawaiians inhabited the Kōloa region long before Western contact in 1778, but the town grew rapidly after the sugarcane plantation began operations. A Congregational mission was also established in 1835. Kōloa soon became a thriving plantation town as well as one of Kaua‘i’s main commercial centers, including a bustling port.
After World War II, Kōloa’s population and business climate declined. Kōloa Plantation survived under various owners until McBryde Sugar Company shut the plantation down in 1996. Still visible at the entrance to Kōloa town are the remnants of the 1841 chimney of the third Kōloa Mill
Immigration
When Hawai‘i’s legislature passed the Masters and Servants Act in 1850, it established a contract labor system that began the mass importation of laborers to work on the sugar plantations. The following decades saw increasing numbers of immigrant laborers arriving in the Hawaiian Islands from China, Japan, Portugal, the Philippines, Puerto Rico, Korea, Germany, Norway, and other countries.
Plantation owners eventually became extremely powerful, and living conditions on many plantations became exceedingly harsh for many workers. Strikes and protests began in the early 1900’s as labor unrest grew.
A tragic event of Hawai‘i’s history occurred in 1926 when 16 Filipino sugar plantation workers and four police officers in Hanapēpē were killed during a brutal suppression of the strike.
Plantations and Mills
Līhu‘e Sugar Plantation
Līhu‘e Plantation was established in 1849 eventually becoming Kaua‘i’s costliest and most modern sugarcane enterprise. In 1853, the plantation’s sugar mill became the first steam-operated sugar mill in the Hawaiian Islands. A ten-mile long ditch completed in 1856 under the direction of William Harrison Rice was a pioneering irrigation project.
Kīlauea Sugar Plantation
The Kīlauea Sugar Plantation began growing sugarcane in 1877 and produced its first crystallized sugar in 1880, the same year the company was incorporated. About 3,000 acres were irrigated by a system of ditches and reservoirs. C. Brewer & Co. purchased the plantation in 1910. Sugarcane operations shut down in 1969, and the Kīlauea Sugar Plantation closed in 1971.
Grove Farm Sugar Plantation
Grove Farm was built into a major sugarcane plantation by George Norton Wilcox, the second son of Wai‘oli missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox who served on Kaua‘i’s north shore from 1846 to 1869.
George Norton Wilcox grew up at Wai‘oli and then studied at Yale College’s Sheffield Scientific School where he earned an engineering degree. In 1870, George purchased Grove Farm from Judge Herman Widemann. In 1881, Widemann added another 10,500 acres to Grove Farm by purchasing land from Princess Ruth Ke‘elikōlani. George used his engineering skills to direct the construction of extensive irrigation ditches that made Grove Farm one of the most productive plantations in the Hawaiian Islands at the time.
The original home of George Norton Wilcox at Grove Farm, just south of Līhu‘e and north of Nāwiliwili Harbor, was built in 1864, and was a relatively sparse cottage. A two-story main house was later built by George for the family of his brother Samuel. It was later home to Mabel Wilcox, the niece of George, who established the museum at Grove Farm in the 1970’s.
In 1948, Gaylord Wilcox, the heir of Grove Farm, bought Kōloa Plantation, increasing Grove Farm’s landholdings to more than 22,000 acres. The Grove Farm Corporation shut down its sugarcane operations in 1974, and McBryde Sugar Company bought most of Grove Farm’s land along with the Kōloa Mill and Factory.
Today the restored plantation home estate at Grove Farm features period furniture, Hawaiian quilts, a koa staircase, and floors made from wood of the native ‘ōhi‘a lehua tree.
McBryde Sugar Plantation
The McBryde Estate was founded in 1829 by Walter Duncan McBryde and W. A. Kinney. In 1899, Benjamin Franklin Dillingham merged the McBryde Estate (which then included the Wahiawa Ranch and Kōloa Agricultural Company), with the ‘Ele‘ele Plantation, forming the McBryde Sugar Plantation.
Coal-burning steam pumps became increasingly expensive for the McBryde company, leading to their construction of two power plants. The first was the Wainiha hydroelectric power plant, built in 1906, becoming the first significant hydroelectric plant in the Hawaiian Islands, and still Hawai‘i’s best producing hydroelectric plant.
In the first decade of the 1900’s McBryde built dozens of reservoirs, including the Alexander Dam, one of the world’s tallest hydraulic fill earth dams with a capacity of more than 800 million gallons. Measuring 640 feet thick at the base and 120 feet high, and 620 feet long at its crest, Alexander Dam cost $2.2 million to build and became the second highest earthen dam in the Hawaiian Islands.
As the dam neared construction on March 26, 1930, torrential rains broke the dam and caused a mudslide that killed six people. The structure was eventually rebuilt, finally opening in December of 1932.
In 1974, the McBryde Company purchased Grove Farm’s Kōloa Mill and Factory along with most of Grove Farm’s sugarcane land. In 1996 the last sugarcane was processed, and coffee trees now cover much of the land. The parent company of both Kaua‘i Coffee Company and McBryde Sugar Plantation is Alexander and Baldwin, Inc. e Alexander Dam in Kalaheo was the site of the McBryde Plantation’s second hydroelectric plant, which was built in 1928.
Kilohana
Located just west of Līhu‘e, the 16,000-square-foot Tudor mansion at Kilohana Plantation Estates was built in 1935 in the English country house tradition. Kilohana was built on the site of a home owned by Albert Spencer Wilcox and Emma Napoleon Mahelona, who lived there from 1896 to 1935. Albert, the son of Wai‘oli missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox, had purchased the land from the Līhu‘e Plantation when he worked as their manager.
Albert’s nephew, Gaylord Parke Wilcox, and his wife Ethel, moved to Kaua‘i from Honolulu in 1936 when Gaylord took over the management of Grove Farm Plantation. The old home at Kilohana was torn down, and a new home was designed in the English country house style by renowned architect Mark Potter. Considered Kaua‘i’s first “mansion,” it was the most expensive home on the island at the time it was built.
After construction of Kilohana was finished, the Wilcox’s furnished the home with a large order from the high-class Gump’s store of San Francisco. Many of the furnishings may still be seen in the home.
The self-sufficient Kilohana Estate included a cattle ranch and a dairy herd as well as a milking shed, piggery, poultry house, carriage house, and horse stables. Taro and other vegetables were grown at the estate along with coffee and various flowers.
Kilohana became a commercial venture in 1985 with the opening of Gaylord’s Restaurant in a garden courtyard area. Various shops on the site sell local arts and crafts and specialty items. On display at the 35-acre estate are rare Hawaiian artifacts as well as historic cottages, flower gardens, and agricultural exhibits.
Carriage rides pulled by Clydesdale horses allow tours of the estate’s grounds, including gardens, livestock, and buildings that once housed workers for the plantation. A Sugarcane History Tour carriage ride is offered as well as a weekly lū‘au (traditional Hawaiian feast).[169]
The Rice Era
By the end of the 1800’s and well into the 1900’s, rice was a primary agricultural crop in Hawai‘i, second only to sugarcane. Ninety percent of rice produced in the Hawaiian Islands came from Kaua‘i and O‘ahu, and the single largest rice-producing region in the Hawaiian Islands was Hanalei on Kaua‘i’s north shore. Hanapēpē on the southwest shore, was also a major rice growing area.
The rise of rice as an agricultural product on Kaua‘i and throughout the Hawaiian Islands was due to several causes, including the abandonment of many traditional taro farming areas after the tragic decline in the native Hawaiian population due to foreign diseases. These former taro lands had good irrigation and were perfect for growing rice. Changes in land laws also led to increased foreign ownership of land, which then became available for foreign-run agricultural pursuits.
Another factor in the rise of rice farming was that many Chinese workers had come to Hawai‘i to work on the sugar plantations and then were free to start their own enterprises after they finished their work contracts, which often lasted for three years. The strong demand for rice among the many Asians that came to Hawai‘i made rice farming a profitable business.
Chinese rice farmers dominated Hawai‘i’s rice industry during its early years, but the annexation of Hawai‘i to the United States in 1898 meant that people from China could no longer travel freely to and from Hawai‘i. Agreements with the Japanese government led to the immigration of large numbers of Japanese, who became the predominant rice farmers in the Hawaiian Islands in the early 1900’s. This was followed by the integration of numerous other ethnicities, including an influx of Filipino rice farmers in the 1930’s.
California rice producers began to dominate the rice industry in the 1920’s, causing Hawai‘i’s rice exports to steadily decline and eventually leading to the end of the rice industry in the Hawaiian Islands.
Rice Farming
A crop of rice, from planting to harvest, takes about four months to grow. Hawai‘i’s rice farmers were busy year round, however, completing the many tasks involved in rice farming, including field preparation and ditch clearing as well as milling and equipment repair. The farmers also grew other food products to eat.
The climate of some rice-growing areas, such as Hanalei, allowed just one rice crop per year, and it was usually planted in May. Drier areas on Kaua‘i, such as Hanapēpē, could produce two crops per year.[170] In the early years, oxen and water buffalo were used to plow the fields.
Seed was soaked in a stream for two days, germinated on a threshing floor for up to three days, and then planted in seed beds immersed in about two inches of water. After about three weeks the seedlings were tied into bundles and then transplanted into the rice paddies.
During harvest the stalks were cut with a serrated sickle and allowed to dry before being bundled and brought to the threshing floor. Threshing took up to five days, and was done by horses attached to ropes tied to a pole at the center of the threshing floor. The horses walked in circles, trampling the grain to separate the seed from the stalks, which were then raked away as each successive layer was threshed. Tractors eventually replaced horses.[171]
Winnowing separated the chaff and dust from the grain. The rice was raked into rows aligned with the wind, repeatedly sieved, sifted, dried by spreading and raking, and then placed in 100 pound sacks that were sewn closed and stored in a granary.
Rice milling was done to clean and shell the threshed rice, removing the hulls and bran. The mills’ wheels were usually powered by water, thus the rice mills were usually located near a river or other water source.[172] After the rice was husked and polished, it was graded and then bagged for shipment to market.
Kaua‘i’s First Cattle Ranch
On August 27, 1831, Englishman Richard Charlton, the British Consul for Hawai‘i,[173] secured a 20-year lease from Kaua‘i’s Governor Kaikio‘ewa for a portion of Hanalei from the eastern side of Hanalei Valley to Kalihiwai. With longhorn cattle brought from “Norte California,”[174] Charlton started one of the first cattle ranches in the Hawaiian Islands, and the first cattle ranch on Kaua‘i. By 1840, Charlton had about 100 head of cattle.
Charlton’s fee for use of the land was “560 boards,”[175] of lumber to be cut by Charlton and used by King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) to build a house. Though apparently the fee was never paid, Charlton retained use of the land until the lease was purchased by Captain Jules Dudoit in 1845.
Dudoit was the first French Consul to Hawai‘i, serving from 1837 to 1848 when he moved to Hanalei with his family of five children: Maude, Adele, Blanche, Charles, and Jules. From 1848 until the early 1950’s, the Dudoits lived in the Kellett House on the bluff of Lanihuli overlooking Hanalei Bay. Dudoit exported butter and packed salt beef for whaling ships, and also shipped beef to Honolulu. Behind the Kellett home was an area where cattle were slaughtered. In 1917, Elsie Wilcox wrote: “The slaughter-pens were in the little valley back of the Lanihuli home, directly back of where Mr. Birkmyer’s house now stands.”[176]
In February of 1850, when Albert Lyman of Connecticut sailed the trading schooner Samuel Roberts into Hanalei Bay, he visited several Hanalei families and noted that fine milk was available from the Dudoit/Dudaver estate: “We every day procure a bucket of the most delicious rich and new milk from the estate of Mr. Dudaver/Dudoit, on which he has about 1800 head of fine cattle. Milk is a most acceptable article on board, and a rare treat for us all.”[177]
Movies on Kaua‘i—Frank Sinatra, Elvis Presley and John Wayne
Frank Sinatra first came to Kaua‘i in the early 1950’s when he performed at the Kaua‘i County Fair. In April of 1964, Sinatra returned to Kaua‘i, directing and starring in None But the Brave, the story of a group of United States Marines who crash land on a Pacific island controlled by the Japanese during World War II.
The main set of None But the Brave was located at Pila‘a Beach on Kaua‘i’s northeastern shore, and Sinatra stayed at the Coco Palms Hotel in Wailua. One Sunday afternoon while Sinatra was swimming at Wailua Beach he saw Ruth Koch, wife of movie producer Howard Koch, in trouble in the strong ocean currents. Sinatra swam out to help her but instead found himself quickly pulled out to sea while Koch made it safely to shore.
After about 20 minutes in the water, Sinatra was rescued, apparently just in the nick of time as he was starting to turn blue and was on the verge of drowning. An ambulance was called. Fortunately, Sinatra was able to recuperate, only missing one day of work before returning to the set.
On April 12, 1961, Elvis Presley began filming Blue Hawaii, his first movie on Kaua‘i and also his most commercially successful movie. In the film, Elvis plays Chad Gates, who avoids working in his family’s pineapple business by working for a travel agency. Much of the film was shot on the grounds of the Coco Palms Hotel with other filming done at Wailua Beach, Lydgate Park, Kealia Beach, and Anahola Bay.
Notable Elvis songs in the movie included Blue Hawaii, Rock-a-Hula Blues, and Can’t Help Falling in Love. Elvis also sang the renowned Hawaiian song Aloha ‘Oe, which was written by Queen Lili‘uokalani. The Hawaiian Wedding Song was sung by Elvis in the famous wedding scene atop a canoe in the Coco Palms lagoon.
Elvis returned to Kaua‘i in 1964 to film Paradise Hawaiian Style, playing ex-airline pilot Rick Richards who runs a helicopter sightseeing business and finds romance at different Island locations. Co-stars in the film were Suzanna Leigh and James Shigeta, and songs by Elvis included Bill Bailey, Won’t You Please Come Home, Sand Castles, and A Dog’s Life.
Paradise Hawaiian Style was released in 1966, and in 1967, Elvis and Priscilla Presley were married in Las Vegas. The couple then came to Hawai‘i, where Elvis re-enacted the famous Blue Hawaii wedding scene at Coco Palms, and renewed his vows to Priscilla.
John Wayne was Hollywood’s most popular star when he arrived on Kaua‘i in 1962 to film Donovan’s Reef. In the movie, John Wayne plays “Guns” Donovan, a former United States Marine who opens a tropical bar in the South Pacific.
The main filming set for Donovan’s Reef was Hanama‘ulu Beach and nearby Ahukini Pier on Kaua‘i’s eastern coastline. Various other Kaua‘i sites were also utilized for filming, including Waimea Canyon, the Wailua River, and the Allerton Estate at Lāwa‘i.[178]
The Story of Princeville
The Princeville Plantation was begun by Scotsman Robert Crichton Wyllie in 1853. Wyllie paid $1,300 for the Government (Crown) lands leased to the Rhodes & Co. Coffee Plantation in Hanalei Valley, and later added to his Hanalei land holdings by purchasing a great deal of adjacent land to the east above Hanalei Valley.
Wyllie was born in Ayrshire, Scotland, and had previously been a surgeon aboard British ships. He then became wealthy as a merchant in London, Mexico, and South America. When Queen Emma and King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani) visited Hanalei in 1860 with their son, Prince Albert, they were the guests of Robert Crichton Wyllie, the Minister of Foreign Affairs for the Hawaiian Kingdom. The royal party stayed at Kikiula, the home of Wyllie’s plantation manager, Gottfried Frederick Wundenberg. In the summer of 1860, to honor the young Prince Albert, Wyllie changed the name of his Hanalei estate to the Princeville Plantation, and made the young Prince the intended heir to the estate. Tragically, Prince Albert passed away in 1862 at the age of four. His father, King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani), passed away in 1863 at the age of 29.
Wyllie began construction of the Hanalei Sugar Mill in 1861 on the east bank of the Hanalei River. With a brick smokestack rising to 110 feet and $40,000 worth of machinery from Glasgow, Scotland, the 1000-ton capacity mill was the most modern and productive mill in the Hawaiian Islands. The mill’s rollers were able to express 600 gallons of cane juice in 20 minutes.
The Princeville Plantation’s first crop of sugar was harvested in 1863, and by the early 1870’s the mill was processing a crop averaging about 400 tons annually.[179] Scows (flat-bottom boats) were used to bring sugarcane down the Hanalei River to the mill, and then a conveyor belt carried the cane in to be processed. The Hanalei Sugar Mill became the center of a small but busy factory village that included a post office, storage buildings, camphouses, and a butcher shop.
Wyllie passed away in 1865 at his Rosebank estate on O‘ahu, and was buried at Honolulu’s Royal Mausoleum. Wyllie’s principal heir was his nephew, Robert Crichton Cockrane, who had come to Kaua‘i from Waltham, Illinois to learn the sugarcane business from John Low, the manager of the Princeville Plantation at the time.
In early 1866, Cockrane was in Hanalei preparing to welcome his bride-to-be. Just eight days before the marriage was to take place, Cockrane was at the home of Princeville Plantation manager John Low, where several men had gathered to listen to a musical performance.
Cockrane left the group for a time, and when Low went to look for him he discovered him in the outside privy, where he had cut his own throat with a razor. He was bleeding profusely from the large wound, and fell forward into Low’s arms. Cockrane’s wound was sewed up, and for the next several days he slipped in and out of consciousness, sometimes acting rational but other times becoming delirious. Cockrane wrote and tremulously signed a bloodstained will that gave Princeville Plantation to his fiance and his mother.[180]
Elsie Wilcox wrote: “Dr. Smith, the nearest physician, was summoned from Koloa, and made a record-breaking ride with relays of horses, covering the forty-five miles in three hours. Doctors were also sent down from Honolulu, but their skill was of no avail. The young fellow died.”[181] Cockrane was buried in the Wai‘oli Church cemetery in an unmarked grave.
The financial difficulties of the Princeville Plantation were said to have been a major cause of Cockrane’s suicide. The Princeville sugar plantation continued to struggle financially due to labor shortages, costs associated with irrigation and milling equipment, fires, droughts, vandalism, and damage caused by an agricultural pest called the cane borer.
By 1880, Princeville Plantation’s sugarcane enterprise employed about 200 laborers and had 900 breeding stock, 400 head working stock, and 150 steers ready to be broken in. About 100 acres of sugarcane were cultivated on the upper slopes and about 200 acres grew in Hanalei Valley. Sugar in Hanalei remained unprofitable, however, and the Hanalei Sugar Mill was shut down by C. Brewer & Company in 1894. By May of 1899, Albert Spencer Wilcox had secured complete ownership of the Princeville estate, and he converted much of the land from sugar production to a cattle ranch.
The Princeville Ranch House, which was located on a plateau on the east side of Hanalei Valley, had been home to various families since the 1840’s. Though it was modernized at the turn of the century, the Princeville Ranch House eventually fell into disrepair and was abandoned. The house was torn down in the fall of 1918. In 1919, the Hanalei Sugar Mill was demolished, and the bricks from the 110-foot chimney were sold to the Kīlauea Sugar Company.
Part III
Hanalei History
Table of Contents
Part 1: First Settlement to Western Contact Ancient Times—1778
Part 2: Western Contact to the Great Māhele 1778—1850
Part 3: Royal Visits and the Story of Princeville 1850—1900
Part 4: The Rice Era and the Beach Houses of Hanalei 1900—1950
Part: Hanalei Today—Art and Nature 1950—2006
Hanalei History
(Partially Expanded)
Table of Contents
Introduction
Part 1: First Settlement to Western Contact (Ancient Times—1778)
In the Beginning
Life Takes Hold—Colonization and Evolution
The Polynesians Arrive
The Development of a Unique Hawaiian Culture
The Moku (Chiefdom) of Halele‘a
The Mountains of Hanalei
Four Ahupua‘a of Hanalei Bay
Hanalei in Ancient Times
Hanalei Bay—Pu‘upōā and Makahoa
Part 2: Western Contact to the Great Māhele (1778—1850)
Kamehameha and the Treacherous Kaua‘i Channel
Missionaries Come to Hanalei
Russian Forts in Hanalei
The Sinking of Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i—Cleopatra’s Barge
The Kaua‘i Rebellion
Captain Kellett—Hanalei’s Pilot of the Port
Charles Titcomb—Silk, Coffee, Sugar, and “Emmasville”
Kaua‘i’s First Cattle Ranch
The Great Māhele
Part 3: Royal Visits and the Story of Princeville (1850—1900)
Princess Ruth Visits Hanalei
Princeville Plantation—Rhodes, Wundenberg, Wyllie, and Kikiula
Hanalei’s First Catholic Chapel
The Stranded Crew of the U.S.S. Saginaw (1870)
King Kalākaua Visits Hanalei
Princess Lili‘uokalani Visits Hanalei
The Deverill House—Hanalei Hotel
Part 4: The Rice Era and the Beach Houses of Hanalei (1900—1950)
Roads and Bridges
Wai‘oli Mission in the 20th Century
The Hanalei River
The Rice Era
Weke Road and Beach Houses of Hanalei
Part 5: Hanalei Today—Art and Nature (1950—2006)
Hollywood Comes to Hanalei
Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge
Hurricanes and Tsunamis
Hanalei Today
Birds of Hanalei
Timeline of the History of Hanalei
Appendix I—Polynesian-Introduced Species
Complete List of Sources
Hanalei History
(Fully Expanded)
Table of Contents
Introduction
Author’s Note
A Drive Through 1,000 Years of History
Part 1: First Settlement to Western Contact (Ancient Times—1778)
In the Beginning
Life Takes Hold—Colonization and Evolution
The Polynesians Arrive
The Development of a Unique Hawaiian Culture
Taro—The Staff of Life
Sidebar: Map—Moku of Kaua‘i
The Moku (Chiefdom) of Halele‘a
Sidebar: Map—Ahupua‘a in the Moku (Chiefdom) of Halele‘a
The Mountains of Hanalei
Sidebar: The Menehune
Four Ahupua‘a of Hanalei Bay
Hanalei in Ancient Times
‘Auwai (Irrigation Ditches)—Kuna Ditch and China Ditch
Po‘okū Heiau
Hanalei Bay—Pu‘upōā and Makahoa
Part 2: Western Contact to the Great Māhele (1778—1850)
Kamehameha and the Treacherous Kaua‘i Channel
Missionaries Come to Hanalei
The Alexanders Establish a Mission at Wai‘oli
Sidebar: The Wai‘oli Lease
Abner and Lucy Wilcox
Russian Forts in Hanalei
The Sinking of Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i—Cleopatra’s Barge
The Kaua‘i Rebellion
Captain Kellett—Hanalei’s Pilot of the Port
Charles Titcomb—Silk, Coffee, Sugar, and “Emmasville”
Kaua‘i’s First Cattle Ranch
The Great Māhele
Part 3: Royal Visits and the Story of Princeville (1850—1900)
Princess Ruth Visits Hanalei
Princeville Plantation—Rhodes, Wundenberg, Wyllie, and Kikiula
The Hanalei Sugar Mill
Sidebar: Wyllie’s Broadside Distributed to Natives of Hanalei
Princeville Plantation House—Walter Foss Sanborn
Hanalei’s First Catholic Chapel
Roman Catholic Chapel, Belfry, and Rectory
The Stranded Crew of the U.S.S. Saginaw (1870)
King Kalākaua Visits Hanalei
Princess Lili‘uokalani Visits Hanalei
The Deverill House—Hanalei Hotel
Part 4: The Rice Era and the Beach Houses of Hanalei (1900—1950)
Roads and Bridges
Hanalei Bridge
Wai‘oli Bridge
Waipā Bridge
Waikoko Bridge
Wai‘oli Mission in the 20th Century
Wai‘oli Mission House
Wai‘oli Mission Hall
Wai‘oli Church Belfry
Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church
Wai‘oli Church Parsonage
Hanalei Today—Restoring Wai‘oli Mission
The Hanalei River
Ka‘āpoko Tunnel
Hanalei Tunnel
The Rice Era
Growing and Milling Rice
Hanalei Pier
The Haraguchis—A Tradition of Farming
Map: Hanalei in the Rice Era
Hanalei in the Early 1900s—A Journey through Old Hanalei
Ah Hoy Store (later called Ching Ma Leong)
Haraguchi Rice Mill (on site of old Man Sing Rice Mill)
The Haraguchis—A Tradition of Farming
Man Sung Wai Rice Mill
Chinese Temple
Yee Hing Society Community Home—Chinese Language School
Japanese Hongwanji
Hanalei Chinese Cemetery—Ah Goong San (Grandfathers’ Mountain)
Chong Hing Store
Hamamura Store
Pā‘ele—Shing Kon Sung Rice Plantation (formerly Soy Sung Wai)
now site of Hanalei Gardens Farm and Bison Ranch
Trader Building
Mrs. Shiraishi’s Barber Shop
I. Nakatsuka General Store
Hanalei Museum and Snack Shop
The Ching Youngs
Ching Young Store / Ching Young Rice Mill
Kodama Barber Shop
Chinese Christian (Congregational) Church
Parsonage
Say Dock House
See Tai Wai Rice Mill
T. S. See Wo Store (now site of Church of Latter Day Saints)
Katayama Store
Takenaka Auto Repair [Takahashi’s Garage and Repair Shop]
Nagaoaka Restaurant and Bakery
Gas Station
Hanalei Shingon—Japanese Shingon Temple
Japanese Language School (now site of St. Williams Catholic Church)
Chock Chin
Chock Chin Residence
Chock Chin Store (later called C. Akeoni Store, Lau Store, Hanalei Store)
The Lily Pond
Tasaka Residence & Saimin
[Sidebar:] Kenichi Tasaka
Lily Pond House
The Hanalei Post Office
Old Hanalei Post Office Boxes
District Courthouse
Jail
Hanalei School
Old Hanalei School Building
Nakatsuji Rice Mill (formerly Hop Chong Wai Rice Mill)
Hiramoto Rice Mill (formerly Hee Fat Rice Mill)
Chock Chin Rice Mill
Weke Road and Beach Houses of Hanalei
Black Pot Beach Park and the Hukilau/ Lumaha‘i Hula
Kauikeōlani—Albert Spencer Wilcox Beach House
Kanoa Pond
Kamo‘omaika‘i Fishpond
Old Hanalei Pavilion
Sanborn Beach House
Reed House
Sanborn Poi Mill
Fayé Beach House
Princeville Ranch Manager’s House
The Bounty House
Mahamoku—Mabel and Charles Wilcox House
Part 5: Hanalei Today—Art and Nature (1950—2006)
Hollywood Comes to Hanalei
Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge
Hurricanes and Tsunamis
Hanalei Today
Princeville
Haraguchi Rice Mill
Hanalei River and Bay
Canoes and Sailboats in Hanalei Bay
The Hanalei River Hui
[Sidebar:] Kauahoa—The Handsome Hero of Hanalei
The Waipā Foundation
[Sidebar:] David Sproat
Shipwrecks—Uncovering the Past
The Return of Taro
Connections to Ancient Times
Hanalei Bridge
The Boating Controversy
Surfing
A Pod of Whales in Hanalei Bay
[Sidebars:]
Puff the Magic Dragon
The Tahiti Nui
Birds of Hanalei
Native Waterbirds
Ae‘o—Hawaiian Black-Necked Stilt
‘Alae Ke‘oke—Hawaiian Coot
Koloa Maoli—Hawaiian Duck
‘Alae ‘Ula—Hawaiian Moorhen
‘Auku‘u—Black-Crowned Night-Heron
Open Country Birds
Nēnē—Hawaiian Goose
Migratory Species—Seasonal Residents and Occasional Visitors
Kōlea—Pacific Golden Plover
Mōlī—Laysan Albatross
Koloa Mohā—Northern Shoveler
Koloa Māpu—Northern Pintail
Hunakai—Sanderling
Green-Winged Teal
Blue-Winged Teal
Bufflehead
Baikal Teal
White-Faced Ibis
Seabirds
‘Iwa—Great Frigatebird
‘A‘o—Newell’s (Townsend’s) Shearwater
‘Ua‘u Kani—Wedge-Tailed Shearwater
[Sidebar:] Rescuing Shearwaters
Koa‘e Kea—White-Tailed Tropicbird
Koa‘e ‘Ula—Red-Tailed Tropicbird
Native Waterbirds
Ae‘o—Hawaiian Black-Necked Stilt
‘Alae Ke‘oke—Hawaiian Coot
Koloa Maoli—Hawaiian Duck
‘Alae ‘Ula—Hawaiian Moorhen
‘Auku‘u—Black-Crowned Night-Heron
Timeline of the History of Hanalei
Sidebar: King Kaumuali‘i (c.1780-1824)
Appendix I—Polynesian-Introduced Species
Complete List of Sources
Note: All Hawaiian words in this text include proper diacritical marks, including the ‘okina (hamzah, or glottal stop) and kahakō (macron), except when the word is cited directly as part of a title or in a direct quote, in which case the words are spelled as originally published.
See Appendix 1: Note On Sources for more information about diacritical marks; objectivity; Hawaiian word spellings and meanings; scientific, cultural, and historic information; new research and discoveries; verifying dates and details of historic events; and Hawaiian sovereignty and other native issues.
INTRODUCTION
Perhaps no place on this planet is so blessed by nature as Hanalei—set on a fertile coastal plain, tucked beneath emerald green mountains and surrounded by golden-sand beaches. The lofty peaks are lined with shimmering waterfalls and the landscape is lush and green. Frequent rainshowers energize the streams and rivers and create rainbows that arch across the sky.
The story of Hanalei is a story of a place and a people. Today the native and immigrant descendants of Hanalei’s early residents are interwoven throughout Kaua‘i’s north shore population, living in Hanalei town and neighboring towns, up in the hills or deep in the north shore valleys where they carry on the history and culture of their ancestors.
The word “Hanalei” has been translated as “Crescent bay,”[182] “Lei valley,” and “Wreath making,”[183] referring either to the rainbows that color the sky like a lei of flowers or the mountains that encircle Hanalei like a wreath.[184]
“Hanalei” is the name of the valley that winds its way for many miles up into the high mountains, the town as well as the name of the small town that sits just inland from the shoreline of Hanalei Bay. “Hanalei” also refers to the whole coastal plain bordering the bay, and in the broadest sense includes all the lands from Princeville in the east to Waikoko in the west.
The protected waters of Hanalei Bay are ideal for swimming, surfing, or just walking along the shoreline. A hiking trail leads up a ridge overlooking the town and the surrounding valleys as well as Hanalei Bay, one of the state’s largest bays.
The Hanalei River flows down from the rainy heights of Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale at the center of Kaua‘i. From the high mountains the river carves a long course through the upper reaches of Hanalei Valley before meandering along the coastal plain and emptying into the sea at Hanalei Bay, which glistens like a jewel on Kaua‘i’s northern coast. If you are standing in the hills above Hanalei or floating out on the bay’s clear blue waters and gazing at the majestic mountains all around, Hanalei can seem almost timeless, an enchanted place, ancient and beautiful from the mountains to the sea.
In many ways, Hanalei’s history mirrors that of Hawai‘i as a whole—from first Polynesian settlement to Western contact, and through the eras of whaling, sandalwood, missionaries, rice, sugarcane, and the aftermath of the attack on Pearl Harbor—yet the remote north shore of Kaua‘i was often among the last areas to feel the effects of Western influences and changing world events.
Kaua‘i is set apart from the other Hawaiian Islands by a large ocean channel whose waters thwarted even Kamehameha the Great as his invading armies were forced to turn back in the treacherous seas. Kaua‘i shares a history with the rest of the Hawaiian Islands, but also has its own distinct history shaped by its relative isolation. Hanalei plays a large part in that history, with its own unique stories that have helped to shape the district you see today.
Hanalei Valley was well-populated in ancient times, supporting a thriving native population and producing bounteous supplies of food from the land and sea. Large and well-irrigated lo‘i kalo (taro patches) grew in Hanalei and neighboring valleys, and Hanalei Bay was teeming with fish that were caught by hook and line as well as with nets and spears.
Hanalei’s earliest residents grew large amounts of kalo (taro), mai‘a (bananas), ‘ulu (breadfruit), ‘uala (sweet potatoes), pi‘a (yams), niu (coconuts), and other food plants that the first Polynesian settlers brought to the Islands on the their voyaging canoes.
British explorer Captain James Cook established Western contact with the Hawaiian Islands in 1778, and soon ships from around the world began arriving on Hawai‘i’s shores. Many foreigners took up residence in the Islands, and during the first half of the 1800s Hanalei was the site of various agricultural endeavors that produced significant harvests of mulberry leaves (to feed silkworms), coffee, tobacco, cotton, rice, sugarcane, citrus fruits, peaches, pineapples, bananas, dates, tamarinds, guavas, potatoes, plantains, yams, cabbage, lettuce, and other agricultural products.
American Joseph Gardner raised sheep and other animals in Hanalei in the 1840s, and in 1848 he ran a mill and loom with several spinning-wheels manufacturing woolen and cotton cloth. The construction of the Hanalei Sugar Mill was completed on the banks of the Hanalei River in 1862, and by the late 1800s there were formidable attempts to grow and mill sugarcane in Hanalei Valley and on the Princeville plateau.
By the 1870s, the rice era was well underway and the well-irrigated valley lands formerly used for taro were instead being used to grow rice. Cattle ranching became another major land use in the Hanalei region beginning in the late 1800s and continuing into the next century.
Hanalei was visited by many members of Hawaiian royalty in the 1800s. King Kamehameha II (Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho) took a 42-day tour of Kaua‘i in 1821. King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) visited Hanalei in 1852 with a large entourage. King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani) visited Hanalei in 1856 with Queen Emma and they came again in 1860, this time with their young son, the Crown Prince Albert, whose visit inspired Hanalei plantation owner R. C. Wyllie to name his growing estate “Princeville.”
Princess Ruth came to Hanalei in 1867 with her two white poodles and picnicked on the Hanalei River. When King Kalākaua came into Hanalei Bay on the Kīlauea in 1874 he was greeted by a “21-gun salute” fired from improvised cannons made from hollowed trunks of native ‘ōhi‘a lehua trees. Princess Lili‘uokalani sailed into Hanalei Bay in 1881 and then traveled to Kīlauea where she drove the ceremonial first spike at the Kīlauea Sugar Plantation. She returned to Hanalei as Queen Lili‘uokalani in 1891.
In the early 1900s, nearly every square inch of Hanalei’s coastal plain was covered with rice. The first rice farmers were Chinese, followed by Japanese, Filipinos, Portuguese, and other ethnic groups, many of whom were former sugarcane workers who had finished their contracts with the plantations.
The rice farmers also built homes, schools, stores, rice mills, churches, and temples, and raised their families in Hanalei. Many descendants of Hanalei’s rice era farmers still live in the region today.
World War II brought changes in the Hanalei region as it did throughout all the Hawaiian Islands. Many influential Japanese and Japanese-Americans in the Islands were detained and sent to internment camps, and the Hanalei Shingon was shut down. Despite the way they were treated, many Japanese residents of Hawai‘i wished to show their loyalty and volunteered to join the war effort, forming the 100th Infantry Battalion and the 442nd Infantry Regimental Combat Team, which became the most decorated units in U.S. history.
Recent decades have seen a resurgence in traditional Hawaiian practices in Hanalei and throughout the Islands, including the revival of Hawaiian canoe culture and hula, the restoration of ancient agricultural systems, and academic programs that emphasize the study of Hawaiian language and culture. These efforts have been energized and enlivened by Hawaiian musicians, dancers, writers, and political activists who have inspired renewed efforts toward resolution of Hawaiian sovereignty issues and other issues of particular concern to native Hawaiians.
Since the 1950s Hanalei has been the scene of many a Hollywood film, and more recently has become a favorite retreat of the rich and famous. Hanalei’s beautiful beaches attract many visitors and also provide surfers with some of the world’s best surfing waves, which are ridden by renowned locals such as famed Hawaiian waterman Titus Kinimaka as well as multiple world champion Andy Irons and his equally amazing brother Bruce.
Hanalei is also home to many ordinary people who love it for its natural beauty and its long and varied history. Much of that history is evident as you drive through the district, but there is also much that has vanished or lives on only in the memories of the elder generation who grew up in Hanalei.
This book is about the place itself—the mountains, valleys, beaches, and bay—as well as the changes that humans have made on this ancient landscape: the fields, farms, churches, ranches, homesteads, bridges, and piers.
This book is also about the people of Hanalei, including the stories and traditions of the earliest residents, the cultural contributions of those who came later, and the enduring aloha of Hanalei’s residents today.
[Photograph: Hanalei scene, raining]
[Photo caption:]
Ka ua loko o Hanalei
The soaking rain of Hanalei
[Photograph: View of Hanalei from ocean showing rivermouth and mountains/waterfalls in background]
“At the time of my visit it was the rainy season. More than a score of cascades were leaping down the perpendicular steeps of those mountains, whose rugged summits, clad with a dense foliage, pierced the clouds at a height of four thousand feet. The valley itself was covered with plantations and pasturelands, dotted with groves of tropical trees. In the distance stood the Mission church and the other buildings comprising the station. Here and there the grass huts of the natives were sprinkled over the open tracts, or half concealed among the foliage. Beyond all, and forming the mouth of the valley, was the peaceful little harbor revealing its fair sandy beach, with the white foam of the surf defining its limits. The final touch to the picture was the beautiful river that meandered through the valley, kissing the wild flowers that clustered on its banks, or bearing a solitary canoe on its bosom, now losing itself among the dense foliage, and now bursting on the vision like a rich vein of silver stealing its way through the perpetual verdure.”
Bates, 1854[185]
Author’s Note
While attempting to write a general history of the Hanalei region, I confronted the problem of telling a story of a place’s past when it was glaringly noticeable that most of the available written history involved not natives but immigrants—and so I was left with many questions, particularly about the original Hawaiian people that lived in Hanalei before Western contact, and their stories.
The more I researched, the more I realized that an underlying story exists, one that is difficult to tell, the untold history of a vanishing culture dispossessed of their traditions, the transformation of the native landscape, and the decimation of the indigenous people.
What was it like more than a century ago as wave after wave of diseases killed many thousands of Hawaiians throughout the Islands? How did the natives cope as their communities were devastated by epidemics that emptied whole villages?
From 1835 to 1860, the population of the Hanalei district decreased by half even as the non-native population increased steadily with the arrival of new immigrants.[186] This mirrored the overall decline of the native population throughout the Hawaiian Islands with—less than 40,000 native Hawaiians remained by 1890, down from a native population at the time of Western contact estimated to be more than a quarter million people, and possibly more than twice that number.[187]
All but lost to history, the stories of the many native Hawaiians who perished in the wake of Western contact are not told here. Where I could, I have provided the basic historical facts such as statistics of population decline, dates of epidemics, and names of foreign-introduced diseases, yet the details remain a mystery. Each new epidemic, each new wave of foreign influences, furthered the inexorable unraveling of an ancient cultural fabric, the rich and complex culture of a self-sufficient people living on the planet’s most isolated archipelago for more than 1,000 years before Western contact.
To address these difficult questions—the subtleties of political events, issues of land ownership, and the complex human issues involving an indigenous culture and native landscape irretrievably changed—would require many more pages, and would need to range over all the Hawaiian Islands. This book is just the story of one area of one island, yet I have tried to write it with an awareness of, and sensitivity to, these complicated issues.
I have lived in Hanalei for many years, yet I am not native-born nor have I any native Hawaiian ancestry. I am myself a foreign voice and cannot speak for those of native descent, some of whom may read this book and mourn for the loss of so many of their people, and for the changed and still changing nature of their land and culture.
[Photograph: Hanalei Valley Lookout]
[Photo Caption:]
“As a scene of beauty, it is almost peerless.”
Theophilus H. Davies, 1862[188]
[Illustration: Overview map of Hanalei (numbered for driving tour)]
A Drive Through 1,000 Years of History
When you approach Hanalei by car, pause first at the Hanalei Valley Lookout [#], located just above the eastern edge of Hanalei Valley alongside Route 560 (Kūhiō Highway) near the Princeville Shopping Center.[189] The scenic overlook provides expansive views of Hanalei’s coastal plain, including the taro patches of the 917-acre Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge [#]. Interpretive signs at the Lookout provide information about the region’s endangered waterbirds.
The Hanalei Lookout is visited by about one-half million people each year. A new Lookout is being planned for a six-acre site about ½-mile up above the former location. The new facility will include a visitor center and bookstore, and will be owned and operated by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service.
Hanalei’s coastal plain spans across the lower regions of four separate ahupua‘a (watersheds)—Hanalei [#],Wai‘oli [#], Waipā [#], and Waikoko [#]—all of which flow into Hanalei Bay. The massive mountains rising up from the coastal plain are, from east to west, Hīhīmanu [#], Nāmolokama [#], and Māmalahoa [#].
Above the Lookout are the 9,000 immaculate acres of Princeville [#], Kaua‘i’s most famous resort, located on the coastal plateau known in ancient times as Pu‘u Pehu above the eastern side of Hanalei Valley. The Princeville Hotel [#] is terraced into the oceanfront hillside of Pu‘upōā Ridge overlooking Hanalei Bay. Princeville’s two golf courses—thePrince Course [#] and the Makai Course [#]—are consistently ranked among the best in the nation, and on the hilltop above it all is the Princeville Health Club and Spa [#].
Along the eastern edge of Hanalei Valley once stood three of the Hanalei’s most historic post-contact homes:Kikiula [#], a two-room stone plantation home built in 1845 and later known as the Princeville Plantation House; theKellett House [#], once home to Captain Kellett, Hanalei’s “Pilot of the Port,” and the Birkmyre Estate [#], used as the French planter’s home in the 1957 movie South Pacific.
The Hanalei Plantation Hotel [#] was built on the former site of the Birkmyre home, and it later became a Club Med before eventually being torn down. For a few years in the mid-1970s a riverboat shuttle provided transportation across the Hanalei River from the resort to Black Pot Beach Park.
Traveling west from the Hanalei Valley Lookout, you will go down the hill on Route 560 into Hanalei Valley and across the Hanalei River [#]. As you drive from Princeville into Hanalei Valley you will descend from the region’s ultramodern present into Hanalei’s long and colorful history. Ships lie sunken at the bottom of Hanalei Bay [#], and many more carried royalty or invading forces across the large and unpredictable Ka‘ie‘iewaho Channel from O’ahu.
At the bottom of the hill is the historic Hanalei Bridge [#] built in 1912 to replace an earlier bridge that had been built in 1892. Before that travelers were carried across the river on a ferry pulled on a cable. The wagon road leading down to Hanalei Bridge was so steep that extra horses were required to help carriages up the hill or slow their descent.
Crossing the river in ancient times, according to legend, required the presentation of a gift to the rivermouth’s lizard dragon, Kamo‘o-o-kaumuliwai. When Hi‘iaka, the younger sister of the volcano goddess Pele, became angered that a torrent of water was blocking her path, she turned the lizard dragon to stone.
Beyond Hanalei Bridge the road is lined with fields of taro reaching across the landscape to the base of the mountains and up into Hanalei Valley. Archaeological studies have dated agricultural activity in the river valley to at least A.D. 1200, though it probably began much earlier.[190] In ancient times, native Hawaiians built their thatched homes along the Hanalei River, on the hillsides above the valley’s taro patches, and all along the Hanalei Bay shoreline.
In 1778, British explorer Captain James Cook established Western contact with the Hawaiian Islands. Before long, Kaua‘i’s north shore and the Hanalei region felt the wide-ranging influences of the post-contact era, including sandalwood traders, whalers, and missionaries. The first permanent mission station in the area was established at Wai‘oli in 1834.
In 1840, the lands just past Hanalei Bridge were the site of mulberry orchards that supplied food for a silkworm enterprise producing fine silk sold in Mazatlan and Mexico City. In 1842 in Hanalei Valley, the first commercial coffee plantation in the Hawaiian Islands was established. Just downriver, the Hanalei Sugar Mill [#] was completed in 1862 with $40,000 worth of machinery from Scotland, and the mill’s 110-foot smokestack stood until 1919.
[Photograph: Hanalei Sugar Mill]
From the late 1800s into the early 1900s, virtually all of Hanalei was a checkerboard of rice paddies, and numerous rice mills and stores operated throughout the region. Still standing just upriver from the Hanalei Bridge is the restoredHaraguchi Rice Mill [#], originally built in 1930 and now Hawai‘i’s only surviving rice mill from the historic rice-farming era. Nearby is the Hanalei Chinese Cemetery [#], also known as Ah Goong San (Grandfathers’ Mountain).
The drive from Hanalei Bridge to Hanalei town is a winding stretch of road that meanders between fields of taro and the Hanalei River. Across the river a herd of bison roams on the marshy grasslands that were known in ancient times as Pā‘ele [#], now the site of the Hanalei Garden Farms and Bison Ranch.
Hanalei is located at 22.2 degrees north latitude and 159.5 degrees west longitude, about 126 miles from Honoluluand 5,151 miles (8,290 km) from Washington D.C. [191]
As Route 560 enters Hanalei town, makai (seaward) of the road is the Hanalei Liquor Store [#], founded and still run by descendants of early rice farmers. Nearby and across the street is a former Hongwanji Japanese Buddhist Temple [#] that was built in Līhu‘e in 1901 and then moved in 1985 to Hanalei where it now serves as a Bed and Breakfast Inn. Further west is another local landmark, the Tahiti Nui [#] renowned for its classic, local-style musical performers and authentic Hawaiian hula.
In the center of town is the Old Hanalei School Building [#], built in 1926 and then moved from its original site, which was about ½-mile to the west, where the new Hanalei School [#] is now located. Also in the center of Hanalei town is the old Ching Young Store Building [#], constructed in 1905 and now housing several shops alongside the newerChing Young Village Shopping Center [#].
Across the street is the Hanalei Center [#] (Wailele Building), housing various businesses and restaurants, and theSay Dock House [#], built in 1895 and now one of the oldest rice farmer homes still standing in the Hawaiian Islands. The Say Dock House is a private residence—please do not go on the property.
Further west is the Hanalei Poi Company[#], which processes local taro into poi, and the Lily Pond [#], dug in the early 1900s by Chinese rice farmer Chock Chin, who also ran a store and rice mill. To the west of the Lily Pond is the Lily Pond House [#], built in 1933 near the shoreline of Hanalei Bay and later moved on coconut tree rollers to its current site. Next door is another rice era home that also served as a Saimin and Pool Hall (now a private residence).
St. Williams Catholic Church [#] was built in 1955 at the corner of Mālolo Road and Route 560 on the former site of a Japanese Language School [#] that began operating around 1903. The Hanalei Shingon [#], a Japanese Shingon Temple, was built on the site in 1934 to host various local events, including weddings and the Obon dori celebration held each July. The school was closed due to the internment of Japanese teachers and ministers after the attack on Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1942, which entered the United States into World War II.
Hanalei’s Wai‘oli Park [#] is now the site of many local soccer games, craft fairs, and the Hanalei Taro Festival. At the west end of the park is Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church [#], built in 1912. Just behind the church is Kaua‘i’s oldest surviving church building, the original Wai‘oli Church, which was built in 1841 and is now known as Wai‘oli Mission Hall [#].
Next to the old church is the Wai‘oli Belfry [#], the only surviving example of this type of bell tower structure in the Hawaiian Islands. Tucked back behind the trees is the Wai‘oli Mission House [#], built from 1834 to 1837, and completely restored in 1921.
Hanalei Pier [#] is located at the eastern end of Weke Road near the Hanalei rivermouth. Originally built in 1892 to serve the region’s thriving rice industry, the pier was rebuilt in 1912 and again after Hurricane ‘Iniki damaged the structure in 1992. Today the pier is a popular place to fish, swim, and enjoy views of the bay’s sparkling blue waters and the towering mountains rising up behind Hanalei town.
On the east side of Hanalei Pier is Black Pot Beach Park [#], named after a big iron pot that was used to cook fish caught during a hukilau, a traditional fishing practice in which everyone cooperates to spot, net, and gather fish.
On the western side of the Hanalei River near the rivermouth once stood a Roman Catholic Chapel [#] established in 1864. A Rectory [#] was built next to the chapel to provide housing for the priest, and around 1900, a tall and slender, wooden Church Belfry [#] was built on the site. The original church bell now hangs in front of St. Williams Church in Hanalei town.
Still standing along Weke Road (beginning on the western end and going east) are several historic structures including Kauikeōlani [#], built in 1896 as the home of Albert Spencer Wilcox and his wife Emma Kauikeōlani Napoleon Mahelona. Nearby is historic Kanoa Pond [#].
On the shore of Hanalei Bay is the Hanalei Pavilion [#], built to replace the Old Hanalei Pavilion destroyed in the 1957 tsunami. The Sanborn Beach House [#] was built in 1910, becoming the first Western-style “beach house” on the bay. The whole home was moved ten feet by the 1957 tsunami and then reposted in its new location. The Fayé Beach House [#] was built in 1915 by Norwegian Hans Peter Fayé, a Kaua‘i sugar plantation developer.
The spacious, wood-framed home called Mahamoku [#] was constructed on the shoreline of Hanalei Bay in 1914 under the direction of Mabel and Charles Wilcox, descendants of early Hanalei missionary descendants Abner and Lucy Wilcox. Mahamoku (“Island of peace”) is notable for its steep roof and cantilevered loft balconies.
Just west of Hanalei town is Wai‘oli Bridge [#] and a bit further is Waipā Bridge [#]. The two concrete, cast-in-place structures were built in 1912 after heavily-loaded, horse-drawn wagons carrying crushed rock for road construction collapsed the previous wooden bridges. An additional span was added to the Waipā Bridge after the 1946 tsunami altered the course of the Waipā Stream. Just past Waipā Bridge is Kumu Road, which leads to the Japanese Cemetery [#].
The ahupua‘a (watershed) of Waipā [#] is being restored by a native-based community group utilizing the valley as a “living classroom” that includes taro patches and an ancient loko i‘a (fishpond). Finally the road crosses Waikoko Bridge [#], which collapsed in the 1946 tsunami. Rocks stacked atop the fallen structure made it functional again, and the hastily repaired bridge remains in use today.
Route 560 then follows the sandy shoreline of Hanalei Bay before climbing a hill and then winding around a bend towards the beaches and valley of Lumaha‘i Valley and out of our story. Within this book are many historic Hanalei sites not mentioned in this brief overview.
HANALEI: A HISTORY
Part 1
First Settlement to Western Contact (Ancient Times—1778)
In the Beginning
About five million years ago, a massive volcano came steaming up from the sea to form the island of Kaua‘i. The volcano was created by a stationary plume of erupting lava known as the Hawaiian “hot spot.” From deep in the Earth, the magma rose toward the surface until it burned through the Earth’s crust and lava exploded onto the seafloor where it grew into a volcanic undersea mountain known as a seamount. Eventually the seamount grew so tall it rose above the surface and became an island. (Note: Recent research has shown that the hotspot may be slowly moving.)
Even as the island of Kaua‘i continued to grow, it was being rafted northwest at about 3½ inches per year on the Pacific Plate, a massive piece of the Earth’s crust known geologically as a tectonic plate. Kaua‘i grew to more than 8,000 feet above sea level as it moved farther away from the magmatic hot spot, and Kaua‘i’s volcanoes became dormant and then extinct.
To the southeast the lava plume continued to burn through the Earth’s crust, first creating O‘ahu and then the rest of the Hawaiian Islands. As each volcanic island was created, one after another the islands moved northwest and away from the erupting lava plume. As each island moved northwest it made way for the next volcano to emerge.
In the five million years that have passed since the formation of Kaua‘i, the island has moved about 400 miles northwest away from the site of the actively erupting lava. Today the lava plume of the Hawaiian magmatic hot spot sits beneath the southeast edge of Hawai‘i Island (the Big Island), where the eruptions continue today.
About 18 miles off the southeast coast of the Hawai‘i Island, a new volcano has already begun rising up from the seafloor. This newest undersea volcano is called Lō‘ihi Seamount, and will eventually become the next Hawaiian Island.
The whole string of volcanoes produced by the hot spot is known as the Hawaiian-Emperor Chain, and spans over the Pacific seafloor for more than 3,100 miles. This island-building process of the Hawaiian-Emperor Chain been continuing for at least the last 75 to 80 million years and has created at least 107 volcanoes in all, including all of the Hawaiian Islands as well as the Emperor Chain stretching off to the northwest.
Most of the volcanoes of the Hawaiian-Emperor Chain are now completely underwater, with the exception of the eight main Hawaiian Islands at the very southeast end of the chain as well as some small islets and atolls of the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands that barely rise above sea level. The rest of the volcanoes of the Hawaiian-Emperor Chain have eroded away and are now submerged deep beneath the ocean’s surface. All of the volcanoes are extinct except for Haleakalā on Maui and four volcanoes on Hawai‘i Island: Kīlauea, Mauna Loa, Mauna Kea, and Hualālai.
Kīlauea and Mauna Loa Volcanoes are considered active, while Mauna Kea, Hualālai and Haleakalā are considered dormant but not extinct.
[Illustration: Hawaiian-Emperor Chain]
Life Takes Hold—Colonization and Evolution
By the time humans arrived on Kaua‘i, the island’s volcanic summits had eroded down from about 8,000 feet above sea level to about 5,000 feet. The island’s harsh volcanic landscape was overlaid with soil and became lush and tropical. A diversity of island habitats supported thousands of native species, from stout koa trees and tiny forest birds in the mountains to native koloa (ducks) and ae‘o (stilts) in the wet lowland areas.
[Photograph: Pueo]
As coral reefs gradually built up around the island this created new areas of ocean habitat that allowed a multitude of fish and other marine species to establish populations and eventually evolve into unique Hawaiian species, including adistinct Hawaiian species of nai‘a (dolphin), ‘ilio-holo-i-ka-uaua (monk seal), and honu (sea turtle).
Relatively few species made it across the Pacific Ocean and became established in the Hawaiian Islands, a tiny archipelago in the middle of a vast ocean and more than 2,400 miles from the nearest continental land mass. Some species did make it to the Islands, by “wind, wing, or wave,” and then spread out into a variety of different habitats and utilized many different food sources.
Gradually, over many millions of years, a great diversity of unique Hawaiian species evolved. For example, a single species of finch bird evolved into more than 50 endemic species and subspecies of Hawaiian forest birds including the honeycreepers and honeyeaters with their fascinating array of beak shapes, each adapted to a different food source, including insects, seeds, and fruit. Endemic Hawaiian species are unique to the Hawaiian Islands, and found naturally nowhere else.
The great variety of living things that eventually populated Kaua‘i’s diverse landscapes continued to evolve as the landscape also continued to change, with erosion carving out deep valleys from the island’s summit to the sea. The canyon of Hanalei Valley was about 2,000 feet deep when lava from the volcanic eruptions known as the Kōloa lava flows filled it to the brim, creating the broad and relatively flat plateau lands on the peninsula now known as Princeville.
The Kōloa lava flows also relocated the Hanalei River to the west where the new streambed began eroding the basalt lava from earlier Nāpali flows, which were thinner and less resistant to erosion than the Kōloa flows. The relocated watercourse of the Hanalei River carved nearly 1,000 feet deep into the Nāpali flows to create the modern Hanalei Valley. Today the eastern ridge of Hanalei Valley is a basalt mold of the ancient canyon.[192]
The coastal area that is now the site of Hanalei town was once underwater as part of a shallow marine bay. About 4,000 years ago steadily decreasing sea levels revealed the Hanalei coastal plain.
Evidence for decreasing sea levels during the Holocene epoch include elevated marine deposits. In a study entitledHolocene History of Sediment Deposition and Stratigraphy on the Hanalei Coastal Plain, Kauai, Hawaii, the authors write, “Fourteen radiocarbon dates from the regressive boundary in 67 gouge auger cores show a seaward progradation of the shoreline from 4800-4580 cal. year. B.P. to at least 2160-1940 cal. yr. B.P. and probably later,” adding that “the regression on the Hanalei coastal plain is best explained by sea-level fall from a middle-to late-Holocene relative [sea level] highstand predicted by geophysical models of whole Earth lithospheric deformation related to deglaciation.”[Holocene History of Sediment Deposition and Stratigraphy on the Hanalei Coastal Plain, Kauai, Hawaii (Abstract). Internet site: http://www.soest.hawaii.edu/GG/STUDENTS/calhoun/abstract.html, 3/26/2003.]
During the last four millennia, Hawai‘i’s tropical rains have caused constant erosion and intermittent landslides washing the volcanic earth down from the surrounding mountains and depositing the rich soils on the valley bottoms and over the broad, open plain along Hanalei Bay.
Researchers estimate that the Hanalei River has deposited an estimated 7,520,000 cubic meters of sediment on the coastal plain since it emerged from the sea hundreds of centuries ago. [Calhoun, R. Scott, and Fletcher, Charles H.Measured and predicted sediment yield from a subtropical, heavy rainfall, steep-sided river basin: Hanalei, Kauai,Hawaiian Islands. Geomorphology 30 (1999) 213-226.]
Hanalei Valley’s coastal region gradually became an alluvial plain—meaning that the soils were deposited there by moving water.
The Polynesians Arrive
Hanalei’s human history reaches back nearly 2,000 years to when the first Polynesian settlers arrived on Hawai‘i’s shores in their double-hulled voyaging canoes.[193] Sailing over the enormous Pacific Ocean, the Polynesians were guided by the sun, stars, winds, flight patterns of birds, and other clues of nature. The ancient Polynesians were master navigators who inhabited hundreds of Pacific islands over a span of thousands of years before finally discovering the Hawaiian Islands.[194]
The first human arrivals in the Islands likely occurred around A.D. 300, however the exact date of the first inhabitation remains uncertain and may be much earlier.[195] These first Polynesian settlers discovered the remote island group despite the fact that the Hawaiian Islands add up to less than 6,500 square miles of land in an ocean that covers more than 70 million square miles, nearly one-third of the Earth’s surface.
After the Polynesians settled in the Hawaiian Islands, they continued to sail back and forth between Hawai‘i and the islands of southern Polynesia until around A.D. 1250 when contact with southern Polynesia ceased or significantly decreased, and the Hawaiians no longer pursued long distance, open-ocean voyages. A unique Hawaiian culture continued to develop during this extended period of isolation that lasted until British Captain James Cook arrived in the Hawaiian Islands in 1778 and established Western contact.
By the time of Cook’s arrival, the Hawaiians possessed a rich and diverse culture unlike any other on Earth. The natives utilized many unique natural resources found only in the Islands, from the colorful feathers of forest birds to the durable hardwoods of native trees.
Since ancient times, Hanalei has been a prime agricultural region, with fertile soils on the coastal plain and in the surrounding river valleys—and plenty of water. As an important center of food production, Hanalei was likely a bountiful “bread basket” for the entire island of Kaua‘i.[196]
The Development of a Unique Hawaiian Culture
The ancient Hawaiians were a self-sufficient and productive people with all the components of a highly developed culture. They farmed the land and fished the sea, utilizing hundreds of native species for food, shelter, and tools as well as for medicinal, spiritual, and ceremonial uses.
The early Polynesians settlers of the Hawaiian Islands brought with them on their voyaging canoes several animal species and more than two dozen species of plants, and all of these Polynesian-introduced species had important uses in Hawaiian culture (see Appendix I). Animal species brought to the Hawaiian Islands by the Polynesians included ‘īlio (dogs), moa (chickens), and pua‘a (pigs) that were often cooked in an imu (underground earthen oven) as an important part of the lū‘au (traditional Hawaiian feast).
One particularly useful plant the Polynesians brought to the Hawaiian Islands was wauke (paper mulberry tree),which provided fibers for making kapa (tapa) barkcloth. Kapa was used to make various clothing items that were colored and scented with dyes and fragrances derived from native and Polynesian-introduced plants.
Polynesians produced the finest kapa barkcloth known in ancient times, and the finest Polynesian barkcloth was produced by the Hawaiians, in part because they used a unique fermentation process and a second beating of the kapa that made the cloth smooth and free of defects. Decorations on the Hawaiian kapa included intricate geometric designs found nowhere else in Polynesia.
[Illustration/Photo: Kapa barkcloth]
The Polynesian settlers also brought ipu (bottle gourds), which were used to make containers and musical instruments that accompanied hula. The oily nuts of the Polynesian-introduced kukui (candlenut tree) provided a source of light and were also strung into garlands called lei. The wood of kukui was carved into many useful items such as the small canoes that were used in nearshore waters.
One of the most important plants the early Polynesian settlers brought with them was kalo (taro). They ate the plant’s heart-shaped lū‘au (leaves) and mashed the underground corm into poi, a staple food of Hawaiians from ancient times and still today. Taro was cultivated in the river valleys, on terraced hillsides, and all along Hanalei’s coastal plains in large, irrigated ponds called lo‘i kalo (taro patches).
Various birds were hunted for food, including ‘a‘o (Newell’s shearwaters), ‘ua‘u (petrels), and ‘ua‘u kani (wedge-tailed shearwaters). Also captured and eaten were large flightless geese such as the moa nalo, a now-extinct bird notable for its tortoise-like jaws.
Some bird species, such as the prized ‘ō‘ō and mamo, were valued for their colorful feathers that were woven into ‘ahu ‘ula (royal capes and cloaks) and mahiole (feather-crested helmets). Feathers from both the koa‘e ‘ula (red-tailed tropicbird) and koa‘e kea (white-tailed tropicbird) were utilized to make royal feather standards called kāhili, symbols of chiefly rank consisting of feather clusters attached to long poles.
[Illustration: Kāhili]
Ancient Hawaiians used no written language aside from the ki‘i pōhaku (petroglyphs) they etched into stones. Remnants of Hanalei’s earliest human history include ancient heiau (sacred places of worship), loko ‘ia (fishponds), and ‘auwai (agricultural irrigation ditches).
Other archeological artifacts from ancient times include pōhaku ku‘i ‘ai (stone poi pounders), as well as ko‘i (stone adzes) used for wood carving. Also preserved in various forms are the ancient stories and legends, and the sacred chants that have been passed down through the generations.
After Western contact, a written Hawaiian language was developed by the Protestant missionaries, and many interviews were conducted with Hawaiian elders. Even as the native population was being severely reduced by foreign diseases, information about many aspects of ancient Hawaiian culture was being recorded and preserved for posterity.
A written Hawaiian language did not exist when Captain Cook and his crew first arrived in Hawai‘i in 1778. Soon after Western contact a written language was configured and then gradually refined, and numerous historical accounts began to be written in the Hawaiian language.
Particularly notable was the voluminous amount of research done by students of Maui’s Lahainaluna Seminary, which was founded in 1831 by American Protestant missionaries as a seminary of advanced education for young Hawaiian men.
Lahainaluna’s history teacher, Reverend Sheldon Dibble (1809-1845), had his students collect oral histories from their own elders and other native Hawaiians, resulting in the gathering of a great deal of information about Hawai‘i’s pre-contact past.
In 1838, Dibble published Ka Moolele Hawaii, a history of the Hawaiian Islands written in the Hawaiian language, which was translated into English a few years later and then published in the Hawaiian Spectator newspaper. In 1839, Dibble published A History and General Views of the Sandwich Islands Mission (New York: Taylor & Dodd), and then in 1843, History of the Sandwich Islands (Lahaina, Maui: Press of the Mission Seminary).
Dibble’s historical reports were developed with the assistance of two prolific Lahainaluna students, David Malo (c.1793-1853) and Samuel Mānaiakalani Kamakau (1815-1876), who collected and documented many legends, genealogies and chants as well as specific details of historical events of pre-contact Hawai‘i.
Malo’s and Kamakau’s extensive writings were originally published in Hawaiian language newspapers in the 1860s and 1870s. Malo’s writings were dated around 1840, but were not published in English until Nathaniel Emerson’stranslation entitled Hawaiian Antiquities (Ka Moolele Hawaii), published by the Hawaiian Gazette Company in 1903.
Kamakau wrote historical articles for Hawaiian language newspapers Ke Au ‘Oko‘a and Ka Nupepa Kū‘oko‘a, producing more than 200 articles between 1866 and 1871. Samuel Mānaiakalani Kamakau was also a founding member of the Royal Hawaiian Historical Society in 1841, and served in the Legislature from 1851 until his death in 1876.
Kamakau’s Ruling Chiefs of Hawai‘i (Honolulu: Kamehameha Schools Press, 1961) was translated by Mary Kawena Pūku‘i (1895-1986) and published by Kamehameha Schools Press in 1961.
A second volume of Kamakau’s writings, entitled Ka Po‘e Kahiko: The People of Old (Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1964) was translated by Pūku‘i and published by Bishop Museum Press in 1964, 88 years after Kamakau passed away. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1815.)
Another prominent native historian was John Papa ‘I‘i (c.1800-1870), who was a language advisor to missionary Hiram Bingham (1789-1869) and wrote articles for the newspaper Ka Nupepa Kū‘oko‘a from 1866 to 1870.
John Papa ‘I‘i was appointed to the House of Nobles and Privy Council under King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli), helped draft the Hawai‘i Constitution of 1852, and was a justice on Hawai‘i’s Supreme Court from 1852 to 1864.
Mary Kawena Pūku‘i’s translation of ‘I‘i’s writings is entitled Fragments of Hawaiian History, edited by Dorothy Barrère and published by Bishop Museum Press in 1959.
Also written in the mid-1800s were at least six Hawaiian-language books authored by Zephyrin Kepelino (c.1830-1876), a descendant of the famous Tahitian high priest (kahuna) named Pā‘ao. According to tradition, sometime before the year A.D. 1200, Pā‘ao founded a high priest line, known as kahuna nui.
Pā‘ao returned to Tahiti and brought back a chief named Pili, who ruled Hawai‘i Island and began a 700-year dynasty, siring the royal line leading to King Kamehameha I. Kepelino’s most notable work was Kepelino’s Traditions of Hawaii, published by Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum in 1932, and translated by Martha W. Beckwith (1871-1959).
Names of native Hawaiians living in the Hanalei region in the 1800s may be found on various written forms, such as the Māhele records and other old documents.
From January 27, 1848 to March 7, 1848, King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) instituted a new system of private property ownership known as the Great Māhele (“Māhele” means division), dividing most of Hawai‘i’s land between King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) and his chiefs, with smaller plots offered to maka‘āinana (commoners). Two years later, in 1850, foreigners were allowed to purchase land, and soon held virtually all privately owned land. (See Timeline: 1848.)
Historical sources reveal the specific boundaries of ancient living and farming areas as well as the locations of important cultural sites.
Some names listed in the Land Commission Awards for Hanalei included: Kalawakea, Keala Iki, Keka Uaniu, Kahio-Keahi, Kahue, Hanaimoa, Ikuwa, Ielemia, Kalalaweikeau, and Kalakala.[197]
An 1893 map[198] showed the following Hawaiian names on lands near the Hanalei Bay shoreline: Koenepuu, Kiolea, Nunu, Kuheleloa, Timoheo, Papa, Makole, S. Kawainui, Kealaiki, and Kahui. Near the current Hanalei town area were Hanaino, Kahanuala, Kahilina, Kamaiwa, Kamakaulii, Kamohaiwa, Kaunahi, Kuaua, Mahuahua, Makole, Naiwi, and Wahineiki.
Some Hawaiian names of people in the Hanalei region listed in the 1914 Polk-Husted Directory of Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii include: Ho, Hookano, Kaakau, Kahai, Kaheleiki, Kaiawe, Kalani, Kamoa, Kaneole, Kauhaahaa, Kaui, Kaumealani, Kelau, Keolewa, Kuapuhi, Mahanaumaikai, Mahilahila, Maka, Maluna, Pa, Pauole, Puulei, and others.[199]
Taro—The Staff of Life
The river valleys of northern Kaua‘i were productive taro growing regions in ancient times just as they are today. Prehistoric agricultural activity in Hanalei Valley included irrigated pondfield technology (taro patches), consisting of large ponds, usually square or rectangular in shape, separated by earthen banks and irrigated by earthen and stone irrigation ditches known as ‘auwai. Today the floodplain of the Hanalei Valley floor is again covered with taro patches, and some ancient ‘auwai are still used to irrigate the fields.
Subsurface excavations have shown that taro was cultivated not only in the river valleys but also on agricultural terraces built into the hillsides above the valley floor.[200] Some of these ancient taro sites were irrigated by natural springs flowing out from the mountainsides, and dryland taro was also cultivated.
The ancient Polynesians considered taro their direct ancestor and their “Staff of Life.” Legends say a taro plant grew up from the burial place of the first son of Wākea, god of the sky, who named the plant-child Hāloa-naka (“Long, trembling stem”). Wākea’s second son was a boy he named Hāloa-naka-lau-kapalili (“Long-stalk-quaking-trembling-leaf stem”), the ancestor of all Hawaiians.
Offshoots of a mature taro plant are known as ‘ohā, and grow in a circle around the parent plant. The ‘ohā eventually grow into mature taro plants, which in turn produce their own circle of ‘ohā. In this way, a single taro plant may eventually produce enough offshoots to fill a taro patch. The ever-widening circle of taro plants serves as a model for the extended Hawaiian family, or ‘ohana.
Taro was the most important staple food of the ancient Hawaiians, and was also used to produce a dye for kapa barkcloth, an adhesive to hold pieces of kapa barkcloth together, and a bait for ‘ōpelu fish (mackerel scad). A medicinal formulation used as a purgative was prepared by mixing the corm of taro with the sap of nuts of kukui (candlenut tree), and the sap of the taro leaf stem was applied to cuts in order to help stop bleeding and begin the healing process.
E ‘ao lū‘au a kualima.
Offer young taro leaves to the gods five times.
Advice to one who has erred and wishes to rectify his mistake. Young taro leaves often were substituted for pigs when making an offering to the gods. To
remove sickness of mind or body, one made five separate offerings
of young taro leaves.[201]
A pudding-like dessert known as kūlolo was made by sweetening the grated flesh and water of niu (coconut) with kō (sugarcane), blending it with the grated corm of taro, wrapping the mixture in leaves of kī (ti), and baking it in an imu (underground earthen oven).
[Photograph: Hanalei (e.g., broad view of valley, bay).]
“Here nature has wrought with bold hands and on a large scale, gouging profound valleys out of massive mountains, scoring them deep with gorges and buttressing them thick with ridges, and then throwing over them a veil of tropic verdure that half reveals and half conceals and wonderfully softens, the bold hard features of the geologic. Nature has contributed the magnificent semi-circular bay with its fine beach and swimming, a succession of splendid cliffs and broad level fertile valley, bounded by mountain walls down whose sides leap numberless thread-like waterfalls which now and again lose themselves in the foliage.”
J. M. Lydgate[202]
[Map showing divisions of Kaua‘i’s moku, each moku labeled as follows:
Moku of Kaua‘i
Halele‘a; Nāpali; West Kona; East Kona; Puna; and Ko‘olau.[203]
[Photograph: Halele‘a]
[Photo Caption:]
“Halele‘a is cooled by the Kaiāulu, the pleasant and gentle trade wind. Sometimes the Hao-Ko‘olau-o-Halele‘a, ‘Ko‘olau trade winds coming with force,’ blows, an unfriendly reminder of the power of nature.”
Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories[204]
The Moku (Chiefdom) of Halele‘a
In ancient times, each Hawaiian Island was divided into numerous moku, or chiefdoms. Each chiefdom was under the control of an ali‘i ‘ai moku (high chief). Most of Kaua‘i’s north shore, including Hanalei, fell within the moku known as Halele‘a, which means “Joyful house,”[205] or “House of happiness.”[206]
At sea level, Halele‘a is bordered on the east by the moku of Ko‘olau, and on the west by the moku of Nāpali. In the higher mountain regions, the Makaleha mountain range forms a natural border between Halele‘a and the moku of Puna.
Each moku (chiefdom) is divided into many ahupua‘a, the natural watershed land divisions that extend from the mountains to the sea, including the offshore coral reefs. Within the moku of Halele‘a are nine ahupua‘a. In order from east to west, the nine ahupua‘a of Halele‘a are: Kalihiwai, Kalihikai, Hanalei, Wai‘oli, Waipā, Waikoko, Lumaha‘i, Wainiha, and Hā‘ena.
Hawaiians maintained a system of communal subsistence based on the natural boundaries of the ahupua‘a, which contained all of the resources necessary for survival. It was a tradition that “the farmer gave to the fisherman, the fisherman to the farmer,” as conveyed in the saying, “O kau aku, o ka ia la mai, pelā ka nohona o ka ‘ohana,” “From you and from him—so lived the family.”[207]
Each of the nine ahupua‘a of Halele‘a were traditionally under the control of a konohiki, the headman of the land division under the chief. Hanalei is one of Halele‘a’s largest ahupua‘a, encompassing Hanalei River’s vast watershed that extends from the highest reaches of Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale to the ocean at Hanalei Bay.
Ancient Hawaiians lived within a fairly rigid caste structure, including ali‘i (royalty), kāhuna (priests and experts in a given profession), maka‘āinana (commoners, who were mostly farmers), and the kauā (or kauwā) class, who were the lowest outcast members. A system of kānāwai (laws) determined if something was kapu (sacred or forbidden), and commoners fell prostrate to the ground in the presence of chiefs, who possessed mana (divine power).
[Sidebar: Map—Ahupua‘a of Halele‘a]
[Photo Caption:]
Ahupua‘a in the Moku (Chiefdom) of Halele‘a
(Note: A moku is chiefdom or district.)[208]
[Names labeling map as follows:]
Kalihiwai—“The Stream Edge”[209]
Kalihikai—“The Ocean Edge,”[210] or “The Sea Beach”[211]
Hanalei—“Crescent Bay,”[212] or “Lei Valley”[213]
Wai‘oli—“Joyful Water”[214] of “Singing Water”[215]
Waipa—“Touched Water”[216] or “Walled Off Water”[217]
Waikoko—“Blood Water”[218] or “Rainbow Tinted Mist”[219]
Lumaha‘i—No translation; possibly medicinal plant or string figure technique[220]
Wainiha—“Unfriendly Water”****[221]**** or Hostile waters”[222]
Hā‘ena—“Red Hot”[223]
[End Sidebar]
Many of the early Polynesian settlers of the Hanalei region built their homes near the shore, where the climate was warmer and drier than inland at the base of the mountains or up in the valleys. They traveled from the shoreline into the valleys during the day to farm taro, and then returned at night to their settlements near the sea.
Groups of thatched homes formed small villages, mostly near the water but also inland, scattered throughout the valleys and on the hillsides, particularly above the taro patches. Homes were thatched with pili (twisted beardgrass), fronds of niu (coconut palm), or lau hala (leaves of hala).
[Photograph: Hanalei (e.g., broad view of valley, bay).]
“[Hanalei] was a region of many rivers and heavy rainfall, its great dark mountains crowding close to the sea. Both rivers and ocean furnished good fishing. Most of the numerous thatched houses were clustered makai, near the sea in the curve of the great bay, where less rain fell and yet where there was a luxuriant growth of bananas, breadfruit, sugar cane, sweet potatoes, yams, squashes and pia, or arrowroot.”
Koamalu[224]
[Photograph: Halele‘a (wide-angle photo, showing taro fields)]
[Photo Caption:]
The Halele‘a district is known for its abundant rainfall and warm climate, and has historically supported a sizeable substantial human population. For many centuries before Western contact, the fertile river valleys of the Hanalei region produced large quantities of taro just as the mountains and sea supplied a whole variety of other foods and useful products.
The Mountains of Hanalei
The coastal plain of Hanalei includes sections of four separate ahupua‘a—Hanalei, Wai‘oli, Waipā, and Waikoko—all bordering Hanalei Bay. Towering up behind these river valleys are three monumental mountains: Hīhīmanu forming the west side of Hanalei Valley; Nāmolokama rising up behind Wai‘oli Valley; and Māmalahoa rising up to the west side of Wai‘oli. In the lower western reaches of Māmalahoa are the ahupua‘a of Waipā and Waikoko. These mountains are often lined with dozens of waterfalls that encircle Hanalei Bay and the whole coastal plain.
At the very top of the ahupua‘a of Hanalei Valley is the 5,148-foot peak of Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale, more than ten miles from the sea and not visible from the shores of Hanalei Bay. Wai‘ale‘ale, means “Rippling water,” and is said to refer to the lake that sits atop the plateau at the volcano’s summit where the Hanalei River begins.
Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale is located at the center of the island of Kaua‘i, and is said to be “the wettest spot on earth.” Average annual rainfall on Wai‘ale‘ale is more than 450 inches, the highest in the world.
Wai‘ale‘ale’s actual rainfall may be even more than 451 inches because high winds at the summit are known to blow the rain horizontally over automated rain gauges that relay weather information via satellite. The single rainiest year on record at Wai‘ale‘ale’s summit was in 1982, when 681 inches were recorded. India’s Cherrapunji Village received 905 inches of rainfall in 1861, but only has an average annual rainfall of about 428 inches.
On the Western side of Hanalei Valley are the twin peaks of Hīhīmanu, which rise to 2,487 feet and forming the border between Hanalei and Wai‘oli.[225] Hīhīmanu translates as “Beautiful,”[226] “Manta ray,”[227] or “Great ray fish.”[228] Rays are large, graceful marine creature sometimes seen in Hanalei Bay and the surrounding ocean waters, and the two peaks of Hīhīmanu are said to resemble the appearance of a ray’s fin tips poking above the water when it glides along near the ocean’s surface.
According to legend, a “Ka-ua-hā‘ao, ‘gentle rain,’ fell over Hīhīmanu, so called because its showers follow one another like members of a chief’s retinue that came in procession in sections or divisions.”[229] Anyone who has seen the tradewind showers marching across the north shore mountainsides can relate to this description.
[Photograph: Hanalei mountains, showing Māmalahoa, Nāmalokama, and Hīhīmanu.]
“Fall after fall of shining water hastens down green, abrupt slopes and across brief shore lands to the sea held within the broad curving arms of Hanalei bay. To the south of this green valley of Waioli stand its three peaks, Namolokama at the center, flanked on the west by Mamalahoa, on the east by Hihimanu. Eastward still further, wandering in wide bends to the sea, lies the more open valley of Hanalei, largest river of all the islands and drawing its source direct from Waialeale’s summit lake. Halalea, Place of Rainbows, the district was anciently called.”
Ethel Damon[230]
Nāmolokama is the massive mountain rising up at the back of Wai‘oli Valley. Nāmolokama means “The interweaving bound fast,”[231] perhaps referring to the intermingling waterfalls that pour from the mountain’s summit. Nāmolokama is also interpreted to mean “Long, rock clefts.”[232] From Hanalei town, Nāmolokama’s peak is often seen only through wisps of distant fog as frequent north shore rains send torrents of water plunging from the mountain’s regal summit.
According to tradition, the first rainbow came to the Hawaiian Islands when the god Kāne threw a piece of kapa (tapa) barkcloth into a pool below Nāmolokama’s precipitous waterfall. This happened after Ānuenue, the goddess of rainbows (ānuenue means “rainbow”), hid on Kaua‘i while calling to the god Kāne through her dreams.
When Kāne arrived at the Wai‘oli rivermouth he met several women falsely claiming to be Ānuenue, and each woman gave him a piece of colored kapa cloth. Finally Kāne reached the pool at the base of the waterfall where he threw all the kapa pieces into the water. There the kapa pieces joined together to form the first rainbow, and it was then that Ānuenue rose up from the water.[233]
Located nearer to the shoreline of Hanalei Bay is a mountain ridge called Makaihuwa‘a (“Eyes for the canoe prow”[234]). Makaihuwa‘a is said to be the site of the first “lighthouse” in the Hawaiian Islands because a platform was built half way up the mountain by Menehune so they could place large torches there to guide the fishermen back into Hanalei Bay at night.[235]
Māmalahoa rises up from the floor of Wai‘oli Valley to a height of 3,745 feet (1,141 m). Some say the mountain’s name comes from Kānāwai Māmalahoe, or “Law of the Splintered Paddle.”[236] The law was declared in 1797 by King Kamehameha I to protect weak and innocent people from injustices imposed by those who were stronger and more powerful. The Law of the Splintered Paddle is considered the first law meant to protect maka‘āinana (commoners).
The declaration stemmed from an event that had occurred years earlier when Kamehameha had attacked a man without provocation, and the man hit him back and fled. When he was later brought before Kamehameha to be punished, the man was instead pardoned by the monarch, who gave him land and set him free.
It is perhaps more likely, however, that the name of the Hanalei mountain called Māmalahoa predates Kamehameha’s encounter with the fisherman, and instead refers to the god Kāne’s wife, also named Māmalahoa.
Frederick B. Wichman notes that “the name Māmalahoa is far older by centuries than Kamehameha’s experience,” and “the attempt to equate this name with the conqueror, it seems to me, is an attempt to foist a victorious conquest upon a beaten people.” [Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu:University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998.]
In ancient chants the name Māmalahoa refers to a strong ‘awa (kava) drink used for medicinal purposes.
The eastern edge of Māmalahoa is a sheer cliff that drops straight down for more than 1,000 feet (305 m) and forms the boundary between the valleys of Hanalei and Wai‘oli. The two watersheds join on the broad plateau above Māmalahoa.[237]
The southernmost tip of Māmalahoa forms the back of the valley of Wai‘oli, about five miles from Hanalei Bay.Above the western side of Hanalei Bay is the peak called Pu‘ukamanu (“The bird hill”), traditionally used as a vantage point to spot fish in Hanalei Bay.
[Photograph: Wai‘oli]
[Photo Caption:]
“The scenery in this vicinity [Wai‘oli] is romantically tropical. The soil is fertile, and produces taro, sugar cane, coffee, and indigo, with fruits and vegetables in great variety. This stream, rushing down a rocky chasm, assumes every fantastic shape possible...a picture more exquisite than any we have seen on the islands.”
Whitney, 1875[238]
[Sidebar:]
The Menehune
Hanalei’s history includes an ancient race of Kauaians who were reputed to be very small but very skilled and had supernatural strength. The Menehune were said to have numbered about a half million, and they built ‘auwai (irrigation canals), heiau (sacred places of worship), roads, and dams—and they did it all at night.
Menehune grew many different foods and fished the sea. Each was a master of a certain craft and had one special function they accomplished with great precision and expertise. The Menehune would set out at dark to build something completely in one night, and if they failed to complete the project it would be abandoned.
There remains some mystery surrounding the exact origin of the stories about Menehune. Early Westerners seeking information about various structures on Kaua‘i may have been told that “Menehune” were responsible, referring to an old meaning of the word “manahune,” which is “common people” (common laborers), likely referring to the early Marquesan settlers of Hawai‘i.
The first humans to reach Hawai‘i most likely came from the Marquesas Islands, about 2,500 miles to the southeast of Hawai‘i. The Marquesas are part of the South Pacific island group known as French Polynesia, an archipelago that includes 130 islands divided into five groups: the Gambier Islands, the Australs, the Tuamotus, the Society Islands, and the Marquesas.[239]
The Marquesans may have been dominated by the later Tahitian settlers and made to perform the hardest work, including stonework. In other words, the term “Menehune” may have been a reference not to the Marquesan settlers’ small size but instead to their lower status in the social system after the arrival of the Tahitians. This may have led to a myth about a small race of people, and the myth may have been compounded over the years. This is one possible explanation of the mysterious story of the Menehune.
[End Sidebar]
Four Ahupua‘a of Hanalei Bay
The upper portion of the ahupua‘a of Hanalei is deep but relatively narrow. The extremely mountainous terrain includes a massive gorge through which the Hanalei River descends as it makes its way down from the summit of Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale to Hanalei Bay.
At lower elevations, the Hanalei River winds its way through a broad valley and flows across the Hanalei coastal plain for the last four miles of its length, then empties into the ocean on the east side of Hanalei Bay.[240]
Ka ua Noelehua o Wai‘ale‘ale
The Misty-lehua rain of Wai‘ale‘ale
The rain of Wai‘ale‘ale that moistens the lehua blossoms there.[241]
[Map showing boundaries of Hīhīmanu, ridge of Kamo‘okoleaka, Kalihikai, Kapaka.]
From atop Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale, the border of the ahupua‘a of Hanalei extends past Hīhīmanu along the ridge of Kamo‘okoleaka and then across the coastal plain to the ocean.[242] A channel in the reef forms the ocean boundary between the ahupua‘a of Hanalei and Kalihikai. This boundary continues across the coastal plain to Kapaka (“The raindrop”[243]) and eventually to the summit of Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale where the ahupua‘a of Hanalei borders the ahupua‘a of Lumaha‘i.
The ahupua‘a of Wai‘oli is bordered on the west by the ahupua‘a of Waipā and on the east by the ahupua‘a of Hanalei. These watersheds merge on the broad coastal plain bordering Hanalei Bay.
The 3,350-acre ahupua‘a of Wai‘oli has a width of only about ½-mile on the coastal plain along Hanalei Bay, but inland the width of Wai‘oli Valley increases to about two miles wide and forms a massive amphitheater-like area that encompasses the waters of three separate streams and many smaller tributaries. The ahupua‘a of Wai‘oli culminates about five miles from the sea at the southernmost tip of Māmalahoa.
Wai‘oli was probably home to a large Hawaiian population in ancient times, and may have been generally better suited for taro farming than Hanalei Valley. Taro grows best when cool river water surrounds the plants, and Wai‘oli’s gradual slope was better suited for allowing the water to flow continuously through the fields.[244]
[Photograph: Ridgeline showing Pu‘ukī, Hīhīmanu]
[Photo Caption:]
On the eastern side of Hanalei Valley is the ahupua‘a of Wai‘oli. The boundary between Hanalei and Wai‘oli is formed by a ridgeline that begins about ½-mile inland from the sea and climbs to the peak of Pu‘ukī (“Ti plant hill”).[245]From Pu‘ukī, the ridgeline rises steeply to Hīhīmanu and then continues to climb for another 2,000 feet.
The ahupua‘a of Hanalei and the ahupua‘a of Wai‘oli join atop Māmalahoa on a broad plateau.
“On the opposite side to us there stretched from the sea, where it terminated in a bold headland, a lofty range of deep purple mountains, the highest part immediately before us. Fronting this were two lower ranges, the nearest of which rose abruptly from the flat, through which the river wound like a snake. A waterfall of immense height streaked like a broad ribbon the huge purple mass behind: beginning at about 1,000 feet from the summit, its course was visibly unbroken for 2,0000 feet at least, when it was lost to view. From other points, smaller cascades of equal height but more slender in width were plainly seen...no less than nineteen streams cast themselves down the huge front presented to us.”
Miss Sophia Craycroft, 1861[246]
[Panoramic photograph: Waipā and Waikoko.]
The ahupua‘a of Waipā is located along the shoreline of Hanalei Bay just west of Hanalei town beneath the majestic 3,745-foot summit of Mt. Māmalahoa. Waipā means “Touched water,”[247] or “Request; prayer, as to gods.”[248]
The name of the ahupua‘a was sometimes written as Waipa‘a, which translates to “Dammed-up water,”[249]possibly referring to the large sand bar that often builds up at the mouth of the Waipā Stream and blocks the water from flowing directly into the sea.[250] This often causes the stream to run along the beach for a ways before flowing into Hanalei Bay.
Legends tell of a boy named Lauhaka who was raised by his uncle, a bird catcher in the hills of Waipā. On a steep trail, Lauhaka confronted and killed two bird catchers who were hunting protected ‘ua‘u (petrels),[251] and the bodies of the slain bird catchers fell into the river where they formed a dam that blocked the water.
Since ancient times the ahupua‘a of Waipā was used by Hawaiians for growing kalo (taro) and for raising fish in loko i‘a (fishponds). It was also the site of heiau dedicated to Kāne, the god of fresh water and life, and the leading god of the four primary Hawaiian gods: Kāne, Kū, Lono and Kanaloa.
Located on the western end of Hanalei Bay, the ahupua‘a of Waikoko consists mostly of low, marshy plain. Wai means “water”; koko means “blood” or “rainbow-hued.”[252] The name Waikoko has many possible origins. It translates literally as “Rainbow tinted mist,”[253] “Blood water,”[254] or “Bloody stream,”[255] possibly referring to the legend of Lauhaka mentioned above, when the blood of the slain bird catchers at Waipā flowed into the neighboring ahupua‘a of Waikoko.
The name Waikoko has also been attributed to a red-colored algae said to have once grown plentifully in the Waikoko Stream before rice-growing became a prominent land use in the area.”[256]
Hanalei in Ancient Times
By the 13th century, perhaps much earlier, Hawaiians began cultivating taro in Hanalei Valley and on the slopes above the valley floor. A 1980 study claimed to have found evidence of agricultural activity (taro patches) from around 7thcentury, the oldest date found in the Islands, but subsequent analyses failed to replicate the results, and only 13th century dates have been confirmed.
A 1980 analysis of material from subsurface excavations in Hanalei Valley found evidence of ancient pondfield agricultural activity (e.g., lo‘i kalo, or taro patches, farmed in irrigated ponds).
A radiocarbon date of A.D. 660 ± 95 and a true age of A.D.610 ± 95 (A.D. 515-705) was obtained on a charcoal sample, making the site the oldest yet found in the Hawaiian Islands for such pondfield agricultural activity. Schilt, A. Rose (1980) Investigations in Specified Areas of the Hanalei Wildlife Refuge, Hanalei Valley, Kaua‘i. Ms. 101680, Department of Anthropology, Bishop Museum, Honolulu.
A 1983 study was unable to replicate the early date for agricultural activity cited by Schilt, and cast doubt on Schilt’s results, concluding only that agricultural activities in Hanalei Valley took place from at least the 13th century, and noting that this later date (13th century vs. the 7th century) was more closely aligned with other research and archaeological analyses regarding prehistoric irrigated agriculture in the Hawaiian Islands and the accompanying rapid population expansion.
The study utilized macrofloral and carbon analyses of subsurface excavations to date buried deposits on the alluvial river plain of Hanalei, and cited numerous previous archaeological studies and historical sources. Athens, Stephen J.Prehistoric Pondfield Agriculture in Hawai‘i: Archaeological Investigations at the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, Kaua‘i. Prepared for the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. Ms. 060283, Department of Anthropology, Bishop Museum,Honolulu, 1983.
The 1995 study entitled Archaeological Investigations of Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, Hanalei, Island of Kaua‘i noted that “Due to the uncertain provenience of [Schilt’s] radiocarbon samples, this early date does not verify pondfield agriculture...the stone tools in the deposit...may evince early habitation prior to irrigated cultivation...If the early 7th century A.D. date is accepted, it may represent this initial occupation.” P. 73, Archaeological Investigations of Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, Hanalei, Island of Kaua‘i, by Lisa Shapiro, M.A., and William A. Shapiro, M.A., May, 1995.
Many pre-contact agricultural sites have been located on the hillsides of Hanalei Valley, “including seven agricultural complexes...on the steep valley slopes above the major ‘auwai [irrigation ditches] in the Valley.
Some of these agricultural sites were probably for dryland cultivations, while others may have been irrigated by springs.” [p. 2, Pre-Contact Hanalei. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990; p. 70, Archaeological Investigations of Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, Hanalei, Island of Kaua‘i, by Lisa Shapiro, M.A., and William A. Shapiro, M.A., May, 1995.
Also located in Hanalei Valley were many living sites as well as heiau (sacred places of worship).
The rich bottom lands of Hanalei Valley, irrigated by the Hanalei River, were eventually filled with hundreds of taro patches stretching from the sea up into the valley and on the surrounding hillsides.
A 1987 study, titled The Prospect from This Hill: The Hanalei Cultural Landscape Survey, Report of Findings and Significance, identified three major irrigation systems and 396 lo‘i kalo (taro patches) in Hanalei Valley.
The study area included approximately 2,200 acres, including the current site of the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge. Also identified were 81 historic structures. [p. 7, Archaeological Investigations of Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, Hanalei, Island of Kaua‘i, by Lisa Shapiro, M.A., and William A. Shapiro, M.A., May, 1995.]
An extensive irrigation system was developed on the valley floor for the cultivation of taro. Despite the potential importance of Hanalei Valley as a center of food production in ancient Hawai‘i, relatively little archaeological investigation has been completed on sites within Hanalei Valley, though many potentially significant sites have been found.
By 1990 at least 20 archaeological sites were located, including habitation sites, stone walls, agricultural areas, and heiau (sacred places of worship).
The 1995 study conducted an intensive survey of 527 acres on the valley floor and surrounding slopes, recording 43 archaeological sites on 915 acres within the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge.
The study was completed in May of 1995, based upon five weeks of fieldwork that took place between July 19, 1993 and August 20, 1993, concluding that “evidence indicates that the bottomland has continually been dominated through time by irrigated agricultural systems for the cultivation of taro.”
Twelve of the archaeological sites identified by the 1995 study were newly discovered, and 29 are thought to date to the prehistoric period. These documented sites are all located on land that is now part of the National Wildlife Refuge, and include heiau (sacred places of worship), lo‘i kalo (taro patches), ‘auwai (irrigation ditches), rock walls, terraces, habitation sites, tool manufacturing sites, and a pit thought to have been used as an imu (underground earthen oven) where pua‘a (Sus scrofa, pig) and other food was cooked.
Many farmers of Hanalei lived near the coast and traveled daily to their inland farms, while others lived in the valley and on the surrounding hillsides. Living sites and stone enclosures were often located above and overlooking agricultural terraces.[257]
“According to old residents,” wrote Ethel Damon in 1931, “the natives would go into the valleys to mahiai [mahi ‘ai], or farm, during the day, and return at night to their homes on the beach. Remains of these terraced taro-lands are still to be found far up in the valleys where no one now lives.”[258]
In addition to ‘auwai (irrigation ditches) in Hanalei Valley, there were stone walls, tool manufacturing sites, and imu (underground earthen ovens). Ancient construction methods documented at the archaeological sites include rock-lined terraces that incorporated flaked and modified basalt. Set into one rock alignment was a basalt adze blank, a tool traditionally used for wood carving and tool making.[259]
An agricultural site discovered on a southwest hillside of Hanalei Valley revealed “a large complex of platforms, enclosures, waterworn rocks and upright stones that incorporated both agricultural and habitational features.” To the east, researchers discovered “an upright stone and platform feature...suggesting a religious aspect to this large agricultural and occupational site.”[260]
Concentrations of cultural artifacts were also located at two nearby sites along the irrigation channel known asKuna Ditch, which runs north to south on the eastern edge of the valley. The other primary irrigation canal of HanaleiValley is the China Ditch, running south to north along the western margin of the lower portion of the Hanalei Valley. An extensive network of smaller ditches connects to these two primary ditches, forming a complex irrigation system designed to bring water to the many taro patches on the alluvial floodplain of the Hanalei River.
The China Ditch is cut about six feet deep into the hillside slope, and is almost three miles long with an intake on the west side of the Hanalei River.[261] An earthen berm reinforces the downslope side of the ditch, whose path crosses several small streams that in turn contribute to the water flow. Today only parts of the China Ditch remain, and much of the watercourse has been abandoned and is overgrown.[262]
In the post-contact era, new irrigation channels were built along the former course of the China Ditch.
An unmodified section of the China Ditch, cut into the hillside for about 1/3 mile through the southwest portion of the Refuge now lies abandoned. On the north side of the overgrown former ditch a newer channel runs a parallel course. An underground pipe supplies water to the newer section of canal, bringing water from a newly built concrete intake.
The current China Ditch extends along the hillside for about 1¼ miles to a point near the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service buildings on ‘Ōhiki Road, where the ditch splits in two. The north fork of the China Ditch is a relatively new irrigation canal known as “Little China Ditch,” which provides water to the taro patches in the northern part of the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge.
Two dam-type devices on the Hanalei River are constructed of boulders and stacked rocks and extend into the river to control the flow of water. Flow control devices such as hand-controlled wooden boards in the irrigation canals divert water into smaller ditches.
Various changes to the course of the China Ditch have taken place since the pre-contact era.
The Kuna Ditch is on average about seven feet wide and five feet deep,[263] running north-south for about two miles along the east side of Hanalei Valley.[264] The irrigation canal is designed to irrigate the eastern taro patches in the southern and western portions of the land that is now Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge. Some portions of the Kuna Ditch are no longer in use, including the northern section.
Like the China Ditch, the Kuna Ditch is mostly an earthen channel without rock reinforcement. Several abandoned ‘auwai (irrigation channels) are located near Kuna Ditch. These channels are built primarily of stacked rock, and some are faced with concrete. A recently built intake for the Kuna Ditch was constructed near the China Ditch intake, and includes a buried pipeline.[265]
Atop a hill on the eastern side of Hanalei Valley is Po‘okū Heiau, one of the largest heiau on Kaua‘i, located on the plains of Princeville near a grove of hala (screwpine) that was one of the largest hala groves in the Islands. Po‘okū means “Upright head”[266]
Hanalei Bay
The broad, curving coastline of Hanalei Bay is about five miles long and lined with a sandy crescent of golden-sand beaches. The horseshoe-shaped bay is more than two miles across at the mouth, making it one of the largest bays in the Islands. The warm, turquoise waters of Hanalei Bay are the final destination of the streams and rivers of four ahupua‘a: Hanalei, Wai‘oli, Waipā, and Waikoko.
[Photograph: Hanalei Bay showing both Pu‘upōā and Makahoa]
[Photo Caption:]
“The view from the anchorage has been pronounced by travelers as one of the finest in the world.”
Whitney, 1875[267]
The eastern point of Hanalei Bay is known as Pu‘upōā; pu‘u means “hill” or “peak,” and pōā means “robber, pirate; to rob, plunder.”[268] The western point of Hanalei Bay is Makahoa, which means “Friendly point.”[269]
Ironically, Makahoa was said to be the home of an ‘ōlohe (robber) named Ka-pua‘a-pilau and his two friends who were trained in the ancient skills of lua (bone breaking). They attacked people passing by and placed the bodies in caves at the bottom of Makahoa Ridge. The robbers were finally dealt with by the konohiki (headman) of the ahupua‘a of Wainiha.[270]
The first two British ships of war to visit Hanalei were the Sulphur and the Starling, which sailed into Hanalei Bay in July of 1837. According to Captain Belcher of the Sulphur, the ships “anchored in the snug bay of Hanalae, on the N.W. side of the island.”[271]
The crews also completed the first official survey and charting of Hanalei Bay. The Hawaiian Islands were then known by Westerners as the Sandwich Islands, having been given that name by Captain Cook in honor of his patron, the First Lord of the Admiralty, the Earl of Sandwich. Captain Belcher recorded the name of Kaua‘i as Atooi (Taui).
Hanalei farmers and ranchers supplied the crews of the Sulphur and Starling with a variety of food products. “Our object in coming hither was to embark bullocks,” wrote Belcher, “which, we were assured, were better and cheaper than at Oahu; and we were fully repaid for the trouble; we obtained noble animals.”[272]
Belcher also noted that “large quantities of meat had been salted, and much butter cured...the cattle we embarked twelve, having already experienced their superiority over any I have met out of England.”[273] The ships’ crews also acquired “vegetables of the finest quality...fruits, poultry, turkeys, &c., cheap and in abundance. Water can be filled in the boats, by sending them into the river.”[274]
Part 2
Western Contact to the Great Māhele (1778—1850)
[Photograph: Hanalei Valley]
[Photo Caption:]
“A century ago thousands of thatched huts dotted this land of rainbow and stream, of frequent rain and fertile soil. Beat of tapa mallet and poi pounder echoed abroad by day, thrum of hula drum by night.”
Ethel Damon[275]
British explorer Captain James Cook reached Kaua‘i in 1778 and established the first documented Western contact with the Hawaiian Islands.[276] Cook was on a voyage of discovery for England and in command of two ships, the HMS Discovery and the HMS Resolution.
On January 19, 1778 Cook’s ships approached Kaua‘i’s southeast coast. Hawaiians in canoes paddled out to meet the ships, and the natives traded fish and sweet potatoes for pieces of iron and brass, which were lowered down from Cook’s ships to the Hawaiians’ canoes. The next day Cook sailed to Kaua‘i’s southwest coast and went ashore at WaimeaBay.
The Hanalei region had already been inhabited by Hawaiians for more than 1,000 years by the time Cook established Western contact in 1778.[277]
The arrival of Westerners in the Islands soon led to a rapid influx of foreigners and foreign influences, including alcohol and modern weapons, which brought significant changes to traditional Hawaiian culture.
[Photograph/Illustration: Captain Cook; HMS Discovery; HMS Resolution]
Hundreds of foreign ships came to the Hawaiian Islands in the decades after the arrival of Captain Cook. These foreign ships included explorers, fur traders, whalers, sandalwood traders, and missionaries. Beginning in the late 1800s and continuing well into the 1900s, hundreds of thousands of immigrant laborers arrived in the Hawaiian Islands to work on sugarcane plantations, and later many of them worked on rice and pineapple plantations.
Diseases brought to the Hawaiian Islands by foreigners after Western contact decimated the native population. The Hawaiians had been isolated from other cultures for many centuries, and thus had little or no immunity to the many different foreign ailments brought by immigrants.
Hawai‘i’s native population declined from an estimated 300,000[278] people in 1778, the time of Western contact, to about 40,000 in 1890. Measles, smallpox, Asiatic cholera, whooping cough, scarlet fever, diphtheria, influenza, bubonic plague, dysentery, and numerous other maladies took thousands upon thousands of native Hawaiian lives.
The high death rate among natives from diseases undoubtedly left in its wake many empty villages and abandoned taro patches throughout the Hawaiian Islands, including the remote Hanalei region. The decline in native-farmed taro acreage dates back at least to 1791 when the sandalwood trade with China began, though Hanalei lasted longer in taro than other areas in the Islands.
The influx of foreigners after Western contact increasingly altered traditional Hawaiian ways of living. Beginning in the mid-1800s, Hanalei Valley’s rich bottomlands began to be used to grow various agricultural products, including coffee, tobacco, sugarcane, and rice. By the end of the 1800s, rice farming and cattle ranching dominated the region’s landscape, while the amount of taro grown steadily diminished to the point where residents of Hanalei had to import poi from Kalalau Valley along the nearby Nāpali coastline.
Kamehameha and the Treacherous Kaua‘i Channel
Kaua‘i is the northernmost of the eight main Hawaiian Islands, and between Kaua‘i and its nearest neighbor, O‘ahu, is the longest and most treacherous of the between-island channels, the Ka‘ie‘iewaho Channel, also called the Kaua‘i Channel. Long after Western contact, the perilous nature of this stretch of ocean kept Hanalei relatively isolated from Western influences compared to other more populous regions of the Islands.[279]
Also keeping the Hanalei region remote are the large waves that arrive on Kaua‘i’s north shore every winter. These large ocean waves make Hanalei Bay an inhospitable place for visiting ships.
After Western contact with Hawai‘i was established in 1778, changes occurred rapidly throughout the Islands. At the Battle of Nu‘uanu in 1795, King Kamehameha I led an estimated 16,000 soldiers with 960 canoes and 20 armed foreign ships to victory, gaining control of all of the Hawaiian Islands except Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau.
Kamehameha’s military victory furthered his attempt to establish a united Hawaiian Kingdom, which would not be complete until he gained control of Kaua‘i. Kamehameha immediately began preparations to cross the Ka‘ie‘iewaho Channel and invade Kaua‘i.
Many ships have met their end in the Ka‘ie‘iewaho Channel, and those of King Kamehameha I are among them. Taking advantage of Western technology and Western support, Kamehameha built a force invincible by other Hawaiian chiefs, yet his troops were no match for the rough ocean crossing between O‘ahu and Kaua‘i.
Kamehameha’s impressive invasion fleet set sail for Kaua‘i in April of 1796, leaving O‘ahu at midnight with an estimated 800 or more canoes and more than 8,000 soldiers. Much of the canoe fleet was swamped, however, when a storm over the ocean channel brought tempestuous winds and violent seas that forced Kamehameha’s warriors to turn back.[280]
[Illustration (or existing sketch/painting) of invasion fleet of King Kamehameha sailing for Kaua‘i.]
In 1804, King Kamehameha moved his capital from Lahaina on Maui to Honolulu on O‘ahu, and continued making plans to attack Kaua‘i. Kamehameha’s forces included 21 armed schooners, a large fleet of double-hulled canoes, 40 swivel guns, eight cannons, and an estimated 7,000 warriors. Among Kamehameha’s forces were about 50 Europeans, and most of them had muskets.[281]
“Let us go and drink the water of Wailua, bathe in the water of Nāmolokama, eat the mullet that swim in Kawaimakua at Hā‘ena, wreathe ourselves with the moss of Polihale, then return to O‘ahu and dwell there.”
King Kamehameha I preparing his warriors for a second attempt to invade Kaua‘i[282]
The second attempt by King Kamehameha to conquer Kaua‘i failed due to an epidemic that infected thousands of native Hawaiians, including King Kamehameha. This epidemic was referred to as ka ma‘i ‘oku‘u, and is thought to have been cholera or a typhoid-like fever). Many warriors died, including the prominent chief Ke‘eaumoku Pāpa‘iaheahe. The sickness delayed for the second time Kamehameha’s attempt to conquer Kaua‘i.
Undaunted, King Kamehameha renewed his efforts to mount a large-scale attack on Kaua‘i, and employed foreigners to construct an armada of sailing ships in Waikīkī. This third planned invasion never took place, however, because Kaua‘i’s King Kaumuali‘i ceded his island to King Kamehameha in 1810, and pledged his allegiance to the powerful ruler. For Kaumuali‘i’s acquiescence he was allowed to remain as Kaua‘i’s vassal ruler.
The rule of King Kamehameha I over all of the Hawaiian Islands inaugurated a new age of Hawaiian monarchy and Western involvement. Kamehameha established a Western-influenced system of government, appointing a Council of Advisors, Treasurer, and a Prime Minister, as well as a governor for each island. Taxes were levied and could be paid with handicrafts or produce. King Kamehameha also instituted a fee for licensing trade and wharfage, and encouraged the sandalwood trade with foreign ships.
King Kamehameha initially ruled from Kawaihae on Hawai‘i Island, then from Hilo (1796), then Lahaina (1803). In 1804 the center of government was moved to Honolulu, which had the best available port.
A bustling trade with China in Hawai‘i’s native sandalwood began in 1791 when it was discovered that the fragrant wood could be sold for a high price in Canton. The sandalwood trade brought a steady stream of foreign ships to the Hawaiian Islands. Extensive groves in the mountains above Hanalei were harvested and shipped to a nearly insatiable Chinese market.
The sandalwood trade had profound effects on native ways of living as the growing demand for wood led to the abandonment of taro patches and other traditional food producing activities. Commoners were ordered by chiefs to travel high into the mountains to harvest the sandalwood, which was valued by the Chinese for making fine furniture, boxes, chests, carvings, perfume, and incense.
Hawaiian sandalwood was sold or traded for Western products, including large and expensive sailing vessels such as Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i (The Pride of Hawai‘i), the elegant, ocean-going yacht purchased by King Kamehameha II(Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho) in 1820 for $80,000 worth of sandalwood. Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i served as the king’s ship-of-state until it sank in Hanalei Bay in 1824.
The sandalwood trade ended by 1840 because virtually all of the large, marketable trees had been logged. Few reminders of the sandalwood era remain today, though a 1960 Hanalei Valley forest fire that burned on the ridge called Kauka‘ōpua (“The horizon clouds alight,”[283]) revealed a pit the size of a ship’s hold. The pit had been dug in the ground to measure out one load of sandalwood,[284] a common practice during the sandalwood era.
Hawai‘i’s whaling era began in 1819, and during the following decades whaling ships brought tens of thousands of foreigners to Hawai‘i’s shores. During the whaling industry’s heyday, Kōloa on Kaua‘i’s south side was the third biggest port in the Islands. During the 1830s, as many as 60 whaling ships were arriving each year in Kōloa. A much smaller number of ships visited Hanalei to trade for supplies and restock their provisions. The presence of whaling crews on Kaua‘i and the associated trade in Western goods brought significant influences to native ways of life in Hanalei.
After the death of King Kamehameha I in 1819, his heirs introduced major changes that affected all of the Hawaiian Islands. Perhaps the most profound change was the breaking of the eating kapu that had prohibited men and women from eating together. This occurred in 1819 when King Kamehameha II ate with the dowager queens Keōpūolanikauhiakama [Keōpūolani] and Ka‘ahumanu.
The breaking of the eating kapu began a process that eroded traditional Hawaiian religious beliefs and eventually led to the complete overturning of the traditional Hawaiian kapu system. It also coincided with the adoption of Christianity by the Hawaiian monarchy.
Missionaries Come to Hanalei
Just a few months after the breaking of the kapu, the First Company of American missionaries arrived in the Hawaiian Islands, which at the time were known as the Sandwich Islands. The missionaries sailed to Hawai‘i from Boston aboard the Thaddeus, and as soon as they reached the Islands they began to actively convert native Hawaiians to Christianity.
In all, twelve companies of American missionaries arrived in the Islands between 1820 and 1840, building churches and schools, and preaching throughout the Islands. The missionaries developed a written Hawaiian language and produced millions of pages of printed documents, exerting wide-ranging influences on native ways of life. Missionaries arrived in the Hanalei region by the early 1820s, and they immediately established a significant presence.
By many popular accounts, the missionaries did much good: teaching individuals to read, administering medicine, and helping the community in various ways. Some historians claim that the missionaries, like other Western influences, encouraged Hawaiians to abandon their native ways of living, devalued native beliefs, and attempted to suppress cultural traditions (e.g., hula). Others note that the Hawaiians came willingly to hear the missionaries preach, and voluntarily attended missionary schools.
Some argue that the natives’ receptiveness to missionary ideas, as well as the overthrow of the eating kapu by King Kamehameha II, were both the result of earlier Western influences that had already degraded traditional forms of subsistence and led to a native population with changing physical and spiritual needs.
The sandalwood trade, the whaling era, and the decimation of the Hawaiian population due to disease were already occurring when the first missionaries arrived in the Islands in 1820. All of these foreign influences led to the decline of traditional cultural practices among the native population.
Whether missionaries exacerbated the tragic loss of Hawaiian people and culture, or instead helped alleviate the consequences, is a matter of debate. Likely, both are true. By the early 1830s, missionaries throughout the Hawaiian Islands were running more than 1,000 schools educating as many as 50,000 people.
The First Company of American missionaries arrived in Kailua-Kona on Hawai‘i Island (the Big Island) on April 4, 1820 and began their congregational mission work. The First Company of American missionaries left Boston on theThaddeus on August 31, 1819 under the command of Andrew Blanchard, reaching the Hawaiian Islands (then known as the Sandwich Islands) on March 31, 1820 on the brig Thaddeus.
Among the arriving missionaries were Samuel Ruggles (1795-1871) and Samuel Whitney (1793-1845), who then traveled to Kaua‘i aboard the Thaddeus. Ruggles and Whitney arrived at Waimea, Kaua‘i on May 3, 1820, and soon visited Hanalei region.
Also arriving on Kaua‘i in 1820 on the Thaddeus was George P. (Prince) Kaumuali‘i, the son of Kaua‘i’s vassal ruler, Kaumuali‘i, who had ceded Kaua‘i to King Kamehameha I in 1810. Humehume had been sent to the United States when he was a child, reportedly to protect him from the queen, and he didn’t return to Kaua‘i until arriving on theThaddeus with Ruggles and Whitney.
Joyous at his son’s return, Kaumuali‘i placed Humehume second in command and rewarded the captain of theThaddeus by giving him a valuable cargo of sandalwood that could be sold for a high price in China. The missionaries Ruggles and Whitney were welcomed by the elder Kaumuali‘i, and were given land and a residence. Ruggles and Whitney established a mission station at Waimea on Kaua‘i’s southwest shore, and were instrumental in establishing new mission stations in other areas including Hanalei.
Samuel Whitney served his entire missionary career on Kaua‘i, primarily at the Waimea mission station but also traveling around the island to preach and to support other mission stations.[285] The arrival of the Protestant missionaries on Kaua‘i would lead to some of the most pervasive and far-reaching foreign influences in the early post-contact history of Hanalei.
The Alexanders Establish a Mission at Wai‘oli
On July 15, 1834, Reverend William Patterson Alexander and his wife Mary Ann, along with their young son William DeWitt, arrived at Kaua‘i’s Waimea Bay. William and Mary Ann had just finished serving in the Marquesas Islands, and before that William had graduated from New Jersey’s Princeton Theological Seminary.
William Patterson Alexander was the son of James Alexander, a Kentucky Presbyterian elder and “one of the early settlers in the blue grass state.”[286] During William and Mary Ann’s journey to the Hawaiian Islands, their son William DeWitt was just 17 months old, and he took his first steps during the voyage. Mary Ann recalled: “William...learned to walk on the ship that brought us from Nukuhiva, and had a swinging gait.”[287]
“William Patterson Alexander, a tall Kentuckian with aquiline nose and very blue eyes, had just had his twenty-ninth birthday...Mary Ann, who as a young bride three years earlier he had brought around Cape Horn from Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, was now twenty-four. She ‘was beautiful to look upon’ at this time, wrote mother Parker, one of their co-workers at the Marquesas. Mary Ann wore her hair in the curls of that day. She too had blue eyes, and perhaps she had not yet entirely lost her rosy cheeks of Harrisburg. Their seventeen months’ old baby they had named William DeWitt after Mary Ann’s pastor who had introduced them to each other and also married them.”
Mary Charlotte Alexander[288]
On July 19, 1834, William Alexander traveled from Waimea to Hanalei in anticipation of establishing the Wai‘oli mission station, first permanent mission station on Kaua‘i’s north shore. After this first visit to the region, he wrote: “arrived at Waioli spying out the land.”[289] Another visit was made on August 9 “to set up door frames & c.”[290]
On the night of August 21, 1834 the Alexanders left Waimea in a double-hulled canoe belonging to Kaua‘i’s Governor Kaikio‘ewa. They sailed for 8½ hours along the Nāpali coast by night, arriving the next morning at the mouth of Wai‘oli Stream in Hanalei Bay. In a letter to her children, Mary Ann recalled: “We went to Waioli in a double canoe at night as the ocean was calmer. Old Kaikioewa, the Governor, sent us.”[291]
On the journey from Waimea to Wai‘oli, the Alexanders were accompanied by about 75 people, including Davida Papohaku (David Stone-wall) from the church of Father Whitney at Waimea.[292] The party camped at the mouth of the Wai‘oli River in a small village that previous visiting missionaries and their followers referred to as Kalema, Bethlehem.[293]
“At early dawn a canoe passing into the bay over the wave called Mano-lau touched the beach at Wai-oli, the valley of “Waters-singing-praises”—of waterfalls singing over high wooded cliffs, of streams singing along fern banks, of ‘wreath-making’ Hana-lei river singing through flowering lowlands, and of waves singing as they thrum on an ivory shore:—Waioli in Hale-lea, ‘House-of-joy.’ To Mary Ann, with perils over, it seemed like heaven.”
Mary Charlotte Alexander[294]
Two years earlier, in 1832, native Hawaiians at Wai‘oli had erected a pole-and-thatch meetinghouse for use by missionaries during their visits to the area. This meetinghouse is believed to have been a traditional hale pa‘ahana (work place) or hale mua (where food was prepared and eaten).[295] After Western contact the structure was likely used for Christian worship.[296]
William Alexander, his wife Mary Ann, and their son William DeWitt were among the first “outsiders” to settle in the Wai‘oli area. During the following decades several different missionary families ran the church and school, and these families were some of the first Caucasian residents of the region.
In anticipation of the Alexanders’ arrival, the native Hawaiians at Wai‘oli had built a 50- by 20-foot, ( 15- by 6-m) grass-thatched dwelling. This thatched mission house was located closer to the shore than the present Wai‘oli mission house. The native-built structure served as the Alexanders’ residence for about three years before a more suitable building was constructed.
“Natives thronged the shore to help beach the canoe and thus have first sight of the strange white woman and child [the Alexanders] who had come from so far. And crowds accompanied the little family to the new thatched house which during preceding weeks the dwellers in this northern valley had gladly made ready for their kumu [teacher].”
Ethel Damon[297]
The Alexanders soon added various improvements to their native-built home. They used stalks of native ferns to partition the house into three rooms including a sitting room and dining room, both of which had lauhala (pandanus) mats on the floor, and a bedroom, which had boards on the floor, a rarity at the time.
“It was a good sized house,” wrote Mary Alexander. “We made partitions of the stalks of uluhi [uluhe] ferns...for 3 rooms—bedroom, dining room, and sitting room. Lumber was scarce in those days so we had but one room with a board floor—our bedroom. The rest of the house was covered with lauhala [pandanus] mats.”[298]
Carpenter Joel P. Dedman, a neighbor of the Alexanders, helped them make improvements to their grass-covered home. Dedman also made the Alexanders’ doors, windows, and furniture including “a study table, trundle bed, two settees and a high chair.”[299]
In the Alexanders’ first grass-thatched mission house dwelling at Wai‘oli, they had two more sons: James McKinney, born January 29, 1835, and Samuel Thomas, born October 29, 1836.
In 1834, Dedman received a grant of land from Kaua‘i’s Governor Kaikio‘ewa for the cultivation of sugarcane. Dedman was to construct a sugar mill and the Governor was to provide the wood for the project. William Alexander wrote: “Our new neighbour Mr. Dedman is building himself a house and is about to carry on the sugar manufactory on a large scale.”[300]
Dedman’s sugar mill was comprised of wooden rollers placed on end and turned by horse power. The cane was fed in from the side and crushed by the rollers, which extracted the juice. The juice was then boiled down in a whaler’s trypot. Despite his efforts, Dedman’s plan to run a sugar mill for Governor Kaikio‘ewa was soon abandoned.
Western-style materials were hard to come by at the time, and the Alexanders made do with whatever materials they could acquire. Mary Ann Alexander wrote: “Glass too was very scarce then. We oiled paper and used that instead for some of our windows. We commenced housekeeping without furniture, no cooking stove, no cupboard for our dishes, only a pine dining table and a few chairs that we had brought with us from the states and an ironwood settee that a carpenter made for us, but we were content.”[301]
The native-built mission house at Wai‘oli served as the Alexanders’ home for their first three years at Wai‘oli. “We lived three years in the native house,” recalled Mary Ann, “I was never happier. It was delightful to live with my doors open, and have no fear of the people around me. James and Sam were born in that house.”[302]
The Alexanders also had a study built near their mission dwelling in 1834. “Dear old Father Whitney used to come and see us sometimes,” Mary Ann wrote, “There was only one white man near us till we had carpenters come to build our house. Your father needed a study, so we had a small house built...covered with lauhala [pandanus].”[303]
Also in 1834, Reverend Alexander built a cookhouse that would later become part of a large mission home (the Wai‘oli Mission House). Coral limestone blocks were cut from the shallows near the mouth of nearby Waipā Stream for use in the foundation of the cookhouse as well as for the front steps and chimney.
“It is a substantial native building, thatched with grass, 50 feet long and 20 feet wide,” wrote Alexander, adding “I have the frame of a cookhouse set up and hope to have it covered in the course of another week.”[304]
The same year, Governor Kaikio‘ewa donated land at Wai‘oli for a school and church, and encouraged the growth of the mission station. The establishment of the church was assisted by Kaua‘i’s dowager queen, Kekaiha‘akūlou (Deborah Kapule), a Christian convert. Deborah Kapule (1798-1853) was a favorite wife of Kaua‘i’s paramount ruler, Kaumuali‘i, before his death in 1824.
Samuel and Mercy Whitney came from Waimea to visit the Alexanders at Wai‘oli, sailing there in Governor Kaikio‘ewa’s double canoe. Reverend Alexander was assisted by Brother Samuel Whitney from the church at Waimea in founding the Wai‘oli Church, which was officially established on October 19, 1834 with just ten original members. Only a select few new members were admitted.
“Brother Whitney assisted me in organizing a little church,” wrote Alexander.[305] About 700 people attended worship at the Wai‘oli meetinghouse on the Sabbath. The population of the Halele‘a district at this time was estimated by the missionaries to be 3,107 people.[306]
Soon more than 1,000 people were attending Alexander’s mission gatherings, including 1,500 people at “a Communion”[307] attended by Reverend Whitney on January 4, 1835. Large numbers of natives came to hear William Alexander preach.
“The mission center of church and school and home pitched its tent a little further mauka near the Waioli river and in the very shadow of the three mountains, Hihimanu, Namolokama and Mamalahoa, on whose precipitous sides waterfalls were almost constantly splashing out of the clouds or the deep blue of distance into the dense green of trees and ferns below. Namolokama, the middle peak, rises more than three thousand feet toward Waialeale, the center of the island, but so close did the Waioli mission houses cling to the base of the mountains that the blue ridge of Namolokama seemed to be the very summit of the island.”
Koamalu[308]
William Alexander also acted as a doctor in various situations, administering medicinal treatments to the natives. Mary Ann Alexander later wrote to her children: “Your father was the doctor. He gave them medicine [doses of castor oil and other drugs in bottles improvised out of joints of bamboo]. I made toast and coffee and bowls of pia [arrow root] for the patients. They wanted warm food when they were sick. The natives are naturally a kind people.”[309]
Father Whitney from the Waimea mission traveled frequently to the Hanalei region to “help in the new work, beside the people from his Waimea church, who...came over to settle in Waioli and form the nucleus of the new church there.”[310] Whitney was referred to as “the precious father,” by William Alexander, who also visited the Whitneys at the Waimea mission station.
When Mrs. Whitney became so ill that she “was brought to the very gate of death,” Alexander “made 6 voyages around the Pali [cliff] in a canoe, a distance of 35 or 40 miles.”[311] Alexander also wrote of the difficulty of being in such a remote location, stating that “without society & without books, the mind flags & the furniture grows rusty.”[312]
During these first years when the Alexanders were among the few non-native settlers in the Hanalei region, the native Hawaiians still retained many of their traditional customs. “The people had but little foreign goods in those days,” wrote Mary Ann Alexander, “but they had cloth of their own manufacture, tapa made out of the bark of a shrub. They had learned from the first missionaries to make holokus [Mother Hubbard wrappers], and to braid hats; they still wore the pau [pā‘ū] [skirt made of a long length of bark cloth wound around the hips]. The men wore the kihe [kīhei][a tapa robe knotted over the shoulder], and the maro [malo-a loin cloth], mostly, when we first arrived at the islands.”[313]
In April of 1835 at Wai‘oli, Reverend Alexander’s first task was to oversee the construction of a new pole-and-thatch meetinghouse for visiting missionaries. The new building would replace the meetinghouse that had been built by the natives in 1832, but had burned down just a few months before the arrival of the Alexanders in 1834.
In 1835, Reverend Alexander wrote that, “the people here are actively engaged building a church [a grass one]. The frame is set up 90 feet by 36, & I think it will soon be covered.”[314]
The new church meetinghouse was an open-sided structure thatched with lau hala, and was built on the same site as the previous meetinghouse that had burned down. The building took about three months to complete, and the finished structure measured about 90 by 40 feet. Timbers were also gathered for the construction of a new schoolhouse.
In 1835, Reverend Alexander wrote: “Since the meeting house was erected, the congregation, Sabbath forenoons, has usually amounted to 800 to 1,000 and afternoons about 600—Wednesday afternoons about 400 attend.”[315] Those who attended the church meetings left a variety of contributions, including fresh chicken as well as “fish, a canoe paddle, the handle for the spade used in cultivating taro, and very rarely a piece of money. A temporary, but very real embarrassment once arose at the Waioli parsonage by heaping payments in dried fish.”[316]
“Mr. Alexander had at first believed that the broad bay of Hanalei, which he called by the name of its wave, Manolau Bay, was to have a commercial future. But a towering breaker which swept the bay farther out, called after the traditional first voyager to the group, who was supposed to have landed here, the Hawaii-loa, made the harbor dangerous for shipping especially during the winter months.”
Mary Charlotte Alexander[317]
At the beginning of 1836, the new meetinghouse at Wai‘oli was officially dedicated, with Reverend Samuel Whitney in attendance.[318] On August 22, 1836, Reverend Alexander wrote: “I have 90 children in my school. Have established four other schools in my bounds.”[319] A census taken about this time by Wai‘oli missionaries recorded “about 160 persons living in the Waioli ahupua‘a, 650 persons living in the Hanalei ahupua‘a, and a total of 3,000 persons living in the Halelea district.”[320]
In 1836, Alexander reported that “over one thousand adults out of the whole population had some knowledge of reading the Hawaiian language.”[321] This high literacy rate was in part due to the assistance of five graduates fromMaui’s Lahainaluna Seminary where many native teachers were being trained at the time.
Lahainaluna Seminary was established in 1831 as Hawai‘i’s first English school, and had the goal of advancing education for young Hawaiian men while training them to become teachers and ministers.
Missionary Hiram Bingham visited the Alexanders at Wai‘oli in October of 1836. Reverend Alexander wrote: “Brother Bingham and family spent the month of October with us, a visit long to be remembered, during which time our Heavenly Father placed a third son in our arms to train up for His service.”[322]
The thatched home that had been built for the Alexanders at Wai‘oli in 1834 by the natives was deteriorating badly in 1835. In January of 1836, Reverend Alexander began acquiring logs of native ‘ōhi‘a lehua timber from the nearby mountains, and by November of that year the frame of a Western-style home had been erected.
Samuel Whitney periodically made the journey from the other side of the island to visit the Wai‘oli mission, sometimes receiving assistance from Reverend Alexander. Bro. Whitney has just arrived here via the Pali tormented with the toothache,” wrote Alexander early in 1837, adding, “I have just pulled out the troublesome tooth, and hope he will feel better by and by.”[323]
“We now hope the Lord intends to spare him with us a little longer—From the 3rd inst. up to the 17th, the day he was taken, it rained almost incessantly, none of the clothes we had washed during that period could be dried except what were dried by the fire—everything became damp, even clothes in trunks—our house leaked in many places, mats on the floor almost rotted, & I assure you we longed for a better house.”
William Patterson Alexander, in a letter
to Mr. Chamberlain, January 25, 1836.[324]
The two-story, four-room mission house at Wai‘oli was finished in April of 1837 for a total cost of about $2,000. The house was built with a gable entrance and a front lānai on both the first and second stories. The outside of the house was originally yellow. The color was most likely chosen because “yellow ochre was the only paint available.”[325]
The Wai‘oli Mission House dwelling was built about 21 feet from the cookhouse that Alexander had erected in 1834. It was a common practice at the time to build a cookhouse separate from the main house in case of fire. The cookhouse at Wai‘oli would later be connected to the main house by the addition of a dining room/pantry. The Alexander’s third and fourth children, Henry Martyn and Mary Jane (a Christmas child), were born in the new mission house, which Alexander referred to as the “zinc palace” in reference to its roofing material.[326]
From 1836 to 1838, a religious revival known as the Second Great Awakening took place in the United States, boosting interest in membership in missions throughout the Hawaiian Islands. Alexander noted that there was “a general religious excitement all around Kauai,”[327] and in 1837 Alexander was teaching 120 children for five days of the week.
Mrs. Alexander taught a school of girls in the subjects of “geography, arithmetic, writing, & sewing; a weekly meeting with 70 or 80 women to read the scriptures & converse on religious subjects; and a semi-monthly meeting with mothers to teach them their duty to their children and urge them to perform it.”[328]
Also in 1837, Mr. and Mrs. Edward and Lois H. Johnson arrived at Wai‘oli from New Hampshire to assist the Alexanders and direct the schools of the mission station. On their way to Wai‘oli they stopped at Kalalau Valley, where Lois Johnson noted that they were “the first missionaries who have ever landed there.”[329]
Lois stayed on the beach at Kalalau while, “Brother Alexander and Husband took a walk back among the inhabitants,” wrote Lois, adding that “The shore where we landed is overhung by an immense ledge of rock affording a shady resting place underneath its own overhanging summit for two or three hundred...In the meanwhile, the people assembled, being marched on to the ground in regular order by one who seemed to act as a captain and apparently felt as much pleasure and pride as a General would in marching his regiment on to the field. Brother Alexander proceeded to examine them and preach to them.”[330]
[Photograph: Nāpali Coast]
[Photo Caption:]
“The Pali baffles all my powers of description. It indeed surpasses all that I have every seen in sublimity. It extends along the shore of the ocean for many miles and it almost seems as you sail along as if its towering peaks which seem to reach to the Heaven, sometimes appearing in broken, ragged mountains, sometimes shooting up in the form of sugar loaf, would lose their balance and overwhelm you beneath their ruins in the mighty deep. Here might the painter find scope for the boldest touch of his pencil & here the power gathers laurels for his brow.”
Lois Johnson, 1837[331]
When the Johnsons finally arrived in Hanalei Bay they were greeted at the shore by Hawaiians. “We arrived safely at Waioli, the place of our destination,” wrote Lois Johnson, “and were welcomed by multitudes of natives on the shore, anxious to see their new teachers. Glad was I after being tossed about for six months to set my foot upon the spot which is to be the field of our labours, and a delightful spot too in prospect; here perpetual spring smiles and the luxuriant soil spontaneously yields her increase.”[332]
The Alexanders had successfully established the Wai‘oli Mission more than three years earlier, and finally in November of 1837 they were getting some help. “We are not so lonely as we were the last three years,” wrote William Alexander, adding, “we have been singularly favored in getting associates. Brother and Sister Johnson, who were part of the large reinforcement who arrived last Spring, are located with us: and we find them true yokefellows, amiable, affectionate, devoted and active.”[333]
“I have just returned from an excursion to Kauhakake in Koolau where I preach every Thursday under the shade of a large kukui grove to an attentive audience of 400. It is about 10 miles distant up hill and down. I preach 5 or 6 times a week to an audience of about 1000 here at the station, give out medicine to many ‘impotent folk’—spend as much of the forenoon in my study as the sick will allow, and afternoons converse with those who come in crowds to enquire about the way to heaven. We have cheering evidence that the Holy Spirit is moving on the minds of many...The little church here now consists of 38 members.”
William Patterson Alexander, in an 1837
letter to his brother James in Tennessee.[334]
An 1837 report by William Patterson Alexander to the Missionary Herald of Boston stated, “The people in our vicinity are now planting cotton, with the governor’s approbation, for the purpose of raising funds to build a permanent school house and church and get a bell.”[335] Seven acres of sugarcane were also planted to raise money, although only crude methods of sugarcane juice extraction were available at the time.[336]
“Our School House is framed and thatched & the carpenter waits for the bds. to finish it,” wrote Alexander on January 27, 1838, “He took the job for 100$ & is to wait until the people raise cotton to pay him. The house is 40 ft. by 24, thatched outside & to be lathed & plastered inside.”[337]
In 1838, another Western style, wood-framed home was built at Wai‘oli, this one for Reverend Edward Johnson and his wife Lois. The Johnsons initially occupied a small, thatched home until the new home was constructed not far from the Alexanders.
The Johnsons would occupy their new home until 1867 when Reverend Johnson passed away. Around 1890, the Johnson house was moved by rolling it on logs of ‘ōhi‘a lehua to a location east and closer to the beach, across from where Hanalei Pavilion is now located, where it came to be known as the Hanalei Hotel (see Part 3).
Raising money to support the mission continued to be a challenge. “Our common schools taught by native teachers are in a languishing condition,” wrote Alexander in 1838, “This arrives mainly from the want of means to support the teachers.”[338] Alexander continued to travel around the island to preach, and also visited the neighboring island of Ni‘ihau, “then thickly populated, where he spent five days among the people in 1838.”[339]
Mary Ann Alexander “was proud of the butter that she made, and she sent many calabashes of it to the sisters in Honolulu.”[340] William Alexander sent barrels of oranges to the missionaries in Honolulu, and in 1839 sent them “a barrel of corn of his own raising. As soon as he succeeds in obtaining the mill for it, he grinds corn meal.”[341]
Members of the Wilkes Expedition, a United States exploring expedition, visited the Alexanders at Wai‘oli in 1840. Mrs. Alexander wrote, “We have now a scientific gentleman with us from Boston, Mr. Coultrouy Alexander, quite an interesting man. Mr. Alexander has been with him to the mountain after ferns, and has visited some caves that are near us, he has also been to the sea after shells.”[342]
The commander of the expedition, Lieutenant Charles Wilkes, recalled that his group “were all much struck with the dress of the native women, its unusual neatness and becoming appearance. It seemed remarkable that so many of the them should be clothed in foreign manufacture, and that apparently of an expensive kind; but on closer examination, the dresses proved to be tapas, printed in imitation of merino shalls, ribans, & c.”[343]
In 1840, William Alexander added a dining room and pantry to the Wai‘oli Mission House (built in 1837), connecting the structure to the cookhouse (built in 1834). By 1841, the Alexanders had five children: William DeWitt (8); James McKinney (6); Samuel Thomas (5); Henry Martin (2), and one daughter, Loise, who was born at the end of 1840.[344] A lease for the Wai‘oli Mission lands was signed by King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) and William Patterson Alexander in 1841.
[Sidebar:]
The Wai‘oli Lease
“I, Kamehameha III, lease out to William P. Alexander a certain parcel of land at Waioli, Kauai. On the East of said land the river of Waioli is the boundary; on the North and the West the mountain between Waioli and Waipa is the boundary; on the South the pond called Momona is the boundary...said land is William P. Alexander’s and his heirs or his assigns, for twenty-five years, for a cattle pasture...he is to pay to Kamehameha III one-half of the cattle born on said land, female and male; and he is also to see that they are cut and branded before being delivered into the hand of Kamehameha’s man, ...and on the expiration of aforesaid term of years he is to restore the land, together with the houses and fences and all the property attached to the land to Kamehameha III or his heir, the owner of the land.”
Lease signed by Kamehameha III, William Patterson Alexander, and G. P. Judd on October 12th, 1841 in Honolulu.[345]
[End Sidebar]
It was not without consequences that the missionaries of Wai‘oli lived so far from their United States Mainland homes and families. On November 10, 1841, Mary Ann Alexander wrote to her mother: “O how I do want to see you, my dear mother, my heart does agonize to see you...Jane tells me that you indulge the hope of seeing me yet once more in this world...Still, dear mother, much as I want to see you, I could not go home now with an easy conscience, and take my husband away from the great work he is engaged in.”[346]
Two decades later Mary Ann would finally be able to visit her mother in the United States. William Alexander was not so fortunate, receiving news of his mother’s death in 1842.
A storm in 1837 brought gale force winds that knocked down the pole-and-thatch meetinghouse at Wai‘oli. The structure was repaired, but plans were begun for a more substantial and durable building. Seven acres of sugar cane were planted at Wai‘oli in 1839 to raise money to build a new church as well as a schoolhouse. A horse-powered sugar mill was constructed at Wai‘oli, and after the cane juice was extracted, it was boiled in iron pots that had been obtained from a whale ship. The $413 earned was put toward the construction of the school house and church.[347]
In 1840, King Kamehameha II (Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho) signed legislation establishing a public school system throughout the Kingdom of Hawai‘i. All children from the ages of four to fourteen were required to attend school. Meanwhile, plans progressed for the new church meetinghouse at Wai‘oli.
In 1841, William Alexander wrote: “Our present tabernacle was overthrown by the winds last winter and is now unsafe when the wind is strong.”[348] The new Wai‘oli Church was completed in November of 1841, constructed in the Western style, timber-framed, using logs of the native ‘ōhi‘a lehua harvested from the hills rising up behind the Wai‘oli mission station.
In a memoir, Reverend James M. Alexander recalled his father, William Patterson Alexander: “It was an exciting time in Waioli, when the whole population, with long ropes, with shouts and chanting, dragged the heavy timbers into place for the church, and also for a house for Mr. Alexander. Coral stone was obtained by divers from the sea, and made into lime for the masonry.”[349]
In November of 1841, the new church building was completed,[350] with a main interior space of 35 by 70 feet, and plastered on the inside and outside. The church was thatched with lau hala.[351] The hipped, thatched, split-pitch roof and four-sided lānai made the structure a blend of Hawaiian traditions and American architecture.[352]
The Wai‘oli Belfry was built next to the new church in the tradition of English and Colonial American missionary churches. Like the church, the Belfry also used structural beams made from ‘ōhi‘a lehua, and had a thatched exterior.
[Illustration: Wai‘oli Belfry]
In a letter to her mother, Mrs. Alexander describes the new Wai‘oli Church as “a frame house covered with grass. It is neatly plastered inside, and on the walls outside as we could not afford to clapboard it. As we have no pews, most of the people sit on settees of their own making, and some on the floor. The preacher has a stand with a table before him. We are obliged to adopt this plan as lumber is very expensive out here. When the house is finished the people will try and raise money to buy a bell.”[353]
Funds were indeed raised to purchase a church bell, including $88 contributed by natives. The bell arrived by ship from Boston in 1843. Ethel Damon noted that the bell “seemed almost a personage of distinction in its village, its arrival at the beach greeted by the entire congregation...as a special guard of honor, certain men were appointed to raise it on a frame of poles and bear it proudly to its thatched belfry,”[354] with “the bearers and accompanying throng moving as in a royal procession.”[355]
The construction of Wai‘oli Church and Wai‘oli Church Belfry were significant accomplishments in terms of architecture and construction at such an early date in the region’s history. Mary Charlotte Alexander wrote: “The greatest material achievement of the people at Waioli during Mr. and Mrs. Alexander’s nine years there had been the earning of funds and the building of their own new frame church, accomplished in 1841 after five years of united effort on the part of the whole populace.”[356]
Church membership at Wai‘oli rose from 27 in 1837 to 180 in 1843,[357] when Reverend George B. Rowell arrived along with his wife Malvina. George had previously graduated from Amherst College and Andover Theological Seminary. After arriving at Wai‘oli, he took over the ministerial duties of Reverend Alexander.
In 1844, students from the Wai‘oli Select School worked on the nearby coffee plantation of Charles Titcomb, earning a total of about $500. They also cultivated beans for their own use.[358] The Wai‘oli Church was re-thatched with lau hala in 1846, and shingles were installed on the roof in 1851. About ten years later, a board floor, seats, and a pulpit were installed in the church.
Abner and Lucy Wilcox
Between 1820 and 1848, twelve separate companies of missionaries would make the journey to Hawai‘i under the auspices of the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions (A.B.C.F.M.). These missionaries—180 Protestant men and women in all—were Congregationalists, unlike the Alexanders who were Presbyterians. Two American missionaries who figured prominently in the history of Hanalei were Abner and Lucy Wilcox.
Abner Wilcox married Lucy Eliza Hart on November 23, 1836. They were both district schoolteachers in Connecticut before volunteering for missionary work. Just three weeks after being married, the newlyweds left Boston Harbor and sailed for Hawai‘i with the Eighth Company of American Protestant missionaries. The Eighth Company was the largest of the twelve missionary groups, and their journey was the fastest.
The Wilcoxes, along with 30 other missionary volunteers, sailed around Cape Horn aboard the 228-ton barqueMary Frazier on a 116-day voyage. After teaching in Hilo from 1837 to 1844, Abner and Lucy Wilcox were transferred to Waialua, O‘ahu, where Abner was placed in charge of the Manual Labor Boarding School. Lucy led weekly prayer meetings for females.
On July 15, 1846, the Wilcoxes boarded the schooner Emelia with their four young sons—Charles Hart, George Norton, Edward Payson, and Albert Spencer—and sailed for Kaua‘i to teach at the Wai‘oli mission station. The next day they sailed into Hanalei Bay where a large group of native Hawaiians awaited them at the landing. Also greeting the Wilcoxes were the Reverend George B. Rowell, his wife Malvina, and a small number of other Caucasian residents.
On the same day the Wilcoxes arrived at Wai‘oli, they moved into the Mission House and the Rowells were transferred to the mission station at Waimea, Kaua‘i. For the next 23 years—from 1846 to 1869—Abner and Lucy Wilcox and their growing family lived in the Wai‘oli Mission House and Abner Wilcox taught at the Wai‘oli Select School for Hawaiian boys.
The curriculum taught by Abner Wilcox at Wai‘oli included reading, writing, mathematics, geography, moral philosophy, and church history. He also preached on Sundays. The initial classes conducted by Abner Wilcox in the thatched schoolhouse at Wai‘oli were attended by 48 native Hawaiian boys ranging in age from 12 to 18. Classes were taught in the Hawaiian language using Hawaiian language materials.
The Wai‘oli Select School sought the brightest and most promising students of the various schools on Ni‘ihau and Kaua‘i, and the finest of these students were in turn sent to the Lahainaluna Seminary on Maui. At the Wai‘oli Select School, the desks were boards placed on blocks, and the students sat on woven lau hala mats.
Wai‘oli Select School students lived with local families, and some of the students worked at coffee plantations in the area. Students also worked on the school’s farm, where a variety of produce was grown. Much of this produce was sold to whaling ships that arrived in Hanalei Bay to restock their provisions.
In 1846, the Hawaiian Kingdom established a Department of Education and adopted the missionary-funded common schools as public schools. At this time, the children of the Wai‘oli school grew corn, beans, potatoes, yams, and bananas on a four-acre plot. They also farmed a large patch of taro.
By 1846, eight of the boys that had attended the Select School at Wai‘oli had gone on to attend Lahainaluna in Maui. Twenty other former Wai‘oli students had gone on to run common schools on Kaua‘i. The mission district schools were present in at least twelve different north shore settlements, with more than 400 children of the Halele‘a district (about one-sixth of the total population) in attendance.[359]
American Joseph Gardner was placed in charge of all Government sheep and ran a small cloth factory at Wai‘oli in 1848, manufacturing cotton and woolen cloth. The cotton was grown at Wai‘oli, and Gardner’s mill had a loom and several spinning-wheels.[360] The fine woolen cloth grown in Hanalei and woven at Gardener’s mill was awarded a silver medal by the Royal Hawaiian Agricultural Society in Honolulu.[361]
During an 1848 visit to Hanalei, R. C. Wyllie noted: “Woolen and cotton cloth, woolen blankets and saddle-girthing were the articles manufactured. There was a good loom that went by a spring-shuttle, and several spinning-wheels, etc.”[362] Also in 1848, Edward Johnson was ordained a preacher, and assumed the Wai‘oli Mission duties of the previous minister, Reverend Rowell.
[Abner Wilcox] had 12 boys out of school Monday with measles and as many every day this week. They do not have them very bad, get back in two and three days. Our children are well. I expect every day some of them will be taken down. I dread the hooping cough.”
Lucy Wilcox, 1848[363]
During much of the 1800s, Kaua‘i’s only Western doctor was missionary James W. Smith, who visited the Wai‘oli region about once every month or two. Though Abner Wilcox was not a medical doctor, he did what he could to treat the various ailments afflicting native Hawaiians. For example, when smallpox struck Kaua‘i’s north shore in 1853, Abner Wilcox and Edward Johnson vaccinated many native Hawaiians and tried to isolate the disease in the region.
Abner and Lucy Wilcox had four sons before arriving at Wai‘oli, and then four more sons in the twelve years following their arrival at Wai‘oli (seven of the children lived to adulthood).
The children of Abner and Lucy Wilcox included: Charles Hart, George Norton, Edward Payson, Albert Spencer, Samuel Whitney, William Luther, Clarence Sheldon, and Henry Harrison.
According to Charles Wilcox, there was a “belief among Waioli Hawaiians that the Wilcox boys were kolohe, a mischievous lot.”[364] Charles recounted a story about a deacon who was hit in the head by a kukui nut and was sure one of the boys must have been hiding up in the tree’s branches.
George Norton Wilcox, the second oldest son, recalled that “besides the Johnsons there were not many white people at Hanalei. We always had Hawaiians around us.”[365] George was not allowed to speak Hawaiian during his childhood at the Hilo station or when they lived on O‘ahu. “In the early days,” George recalled, “we were forbidden to speak Hawaiian, and I never learned it well. Later, at Waioli, Sam and Luther were allowed to run around freely and to talk to all the Hawaiians. So they learned it better.”[366] Sam later studied Hawaiian at Punahou School on O‘ahu.
Despite living thousands of miles away from their families, Abner and Lucy Wilcox were able to provide their sons with some visits to their United States Mainland relatives. Sam recalled seeing his maternal grandmother: “And that grandmother Hart! Did I ever tell you that I actually saw her when I went East as a boy? She was ninety-five years old, but so spry she could sit on a small milking stool—and so I saw her sitting one day milking a cow and smoking her corn cob pipe while she milked.”[367]
“We boys used to go out early in the mornings to the cliff at Waikoko to catch...birds that fished at night...and flew back at dawn to their nests. They could not see well by daylight and we could often catch several as they flew along the cliff. We had nets on wire, like butterfly nets.”
George Norton Wilcox[368]
The few Caucasian residents in the region occasionally visited each other. Josephine Wundenberg King recalled: “It was one of our greatest pleasures to visit at the mission, and quite a gala day when we went to spend the day with either the Wilcox’s or the Johnson’s. Being rowed in our boat as far as Titcomb’s landing and walking the other mile when we were too big to be carried.”[369]
The Wilcox boys had a pet Galapagos turtle given to young George in Hilo by a sea captain named Pitman, “from whose yard it must have wandered away.”[370] “When Captain Pitman gave George that baby turtle for his own,” recalled Samuel Wilcox, “George was the happiest little fellow alive...once we found [the turtle] way across the Waioli river...we often used to stand on his back, three or four of us, and ride across the water.”[371]
Josephine Wundenberg King also enjoyed the pet turtle: “At the Wilcox’s it was our delight to have a ride with the boys, Sam and Luther, on their land turtle, and climb trees with them.”[372]
The Wilcox boys had a pet dog that sometimes wandered back to its original owner. “Our Smut was just a dog, but we boys liked him,” recalled George, adding, “Old Titcomb gave him to us. Then Smut had two homes, because he would run over to Titcomb’s when he felt like it.”[373] George recalled that traveling to the other side of the island was not easy: “It was quite a ride for little fellows like me, my mother always rode side saddle.”[374]
The curriculum of the Wai‘oli School in 1848 was “geography, arithmetic, elements of geometry, astronomy, first seven chapters in Bailey’s Algebra, moral philosophy, Church history, Sacred geography adn Chronology. Also Reading, penmanship, writing compositions, public speaking and a class in English.”[375]
In 1849, at the age of 16, William DeWitt Alexander visited the mission home where he had lived when he was a child. “We soon descended the hill, crossed the river, & hastened home,” recalled William, “the feeling with which I gazed on the home of my early days, I cannot describe. The main features of the place were not changed. But still many changes had taken place around the station...the natives who were still living had, for the most part, moved their dwellings down to the seashore.”[376]
In 1851, Abner Wilcox took his five-year-old Albert to Boston for corrective surgery on his clubfeet. During Abner’s absence, Lucy Wilcox ran the Wai‘oli Select School and tended to the many tasks required to raise her children, not always easy in such a remote area as Kaua‘i’s north shore. To make candles to light the house, Lucy “saved beef tallow from every [cow] killing.”[377]
In the 1850s, the Wai‘oli Mission House and adjacent mission station pasturelands included a total of 39 acres.[378] Missionaries estimated the population of the Halele‘a district to be about 2,000 people, with about 700 included in the congregation.[379] In 1854, Reverend David Nuuhiwa was chosen as Assistant Minister, becoming the first native Hawaiian serve in such a post for the Wai‘oli Mission.
The Wai‘oli Select School continued its efforts in the 1850s, but funding the school and providing the proper books continued to be a challenge for Abner Wilcox. His son Edward built an addition to the Wai‘oli Mission House in 1859-60 while on a break from attending Punahou School on O‘ahu. Edward removed the roof from the dining room/pantry area and then added a second floor bedroom.
George Wilcox attended Sheffield Scientific School at Yale College from 1860 to 1862, majoring in engineering, and earning his engineering certificate. George’s first job was planting sugarcane on his parents’ land at Wai‘oli. He later worked as a luna (foreman) on the Princeville sugar plantation of R. C. Wyllie before building Grove Farm in southern Kaua‘i into a major sugarcane plantation.
“Waioli flats at the mouth of the river when the tide was out...the beach was very hard at low tide, you could gallop a horse over it without leaving any marks. Well, we would make a bamboo torch. Split up dry bamboo and tie it at intervals. Then the fellow that carried it alight would run out, you had to go on the run because the crabs would run up to the light, and another boy with a pail would catch them and put them into his pail. Once a dead bat came floating along too. It had dropped into the water probably and died. So they put that into the pail too. By and by along came another bat and he put that in too. Well, pretty soon along came another—and then the game was up, because we fellows behind realized that the one ahead with the pail was just dropping the same bat overboard again and again.”
George Norton Wilcox at age 91, recalling his youth at Wai‘oli.[380]
In 1861, Abner Wilcox was advised by his sponsors, the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, that continued support was doubtful.[381] In 1862, Louise Johnson began the Hanalei English School, the first English school in the Halele‘a district.[382]
In 1863, all mission lands in the Hawaiian Islands, including the Wai‘oli mission, were divided among Hawai‘i’s missionaries as part of their pensions. The Sandwich Islands Mission became independent, and would no longer be supported by the American Mission Board, which transferred the Sandwich Islands Mission to the Hawaiian Evangelical Association. The Wai‘oli Mission House was deeded to Abner Wilcox.
A fire in 1863 burned down the Wai‘oli schoolhouse. “At about 10 o’clock in the evening of Monday the 2nd of March, the alarm of fire was given which proved to be our school house,” recalled Abner Wilcox in a Wai‘oli Select School report, adding that “the ringing of the bell at such an unseasonable hour soon aroused the inhabitants and brought together a large company. Being covered with thatch, the flames spread with great rapidity, and very little could be saved.”[383]
As the flames died down, efforts were made to save whatever could be salvaged from the fire, including some of the large timbers, which were later used to start the foundation of a new schoolhouse. “A few books and slates were snatched from the flames by those who first arrived,” recalled Abner, “my writing desk escaped...with only three legs.”[384]
After the flames subsided, “the pupils with the native assistant teacher arranged themselves and standing around, sang, in mournful strains, its requiem.”[385] With assistance from the Board of Education, Abner Wilcox was able to acquire materials to build a new schoolhouse with the help of his son George. “On obtaining the materials,” recalled Abner, “we commenced as soon as possible to prepare the foundation and build a house 32 by 21 feet. My second son, with a native carpenter undertook the work.”[386]
In the 1860s at Wai‘oli, one of the Johnson children, Julia, taught at the Government school along with Josephine Wundenberg King, the daughter of Princeville Plantation manager Gottfried Wundenberg. “The native children were very affectionate and obliging and loved to be with us whenever we were willing to have them,” recalled Josephine, “often accompanying us on our horse back rides after school over the hills and into the valleys gathering ohia’s, poha’s and limes which grew in abundance everywhere.”[387]
Josephine also wrote about a memorable journey to Līhu‘e: “The Johnsons had some very good horses, nearly all named after late American Generals. Sherman being my expecial favorite. I rode him all the way from Hanalei to Lihue once with Julia on her Hero, and Mr. McBryde as our escort, he was in a hurry to get home, so we had to make time too, to keep up with him. We made the trip in about eight hours, resting for dinner about five o’clock at Mr. Krolls in Kealia.”[388]
George Wilcox recalled a time during his childhood when inclement weather brought a rare instance of hail: “Once at Waioli when I was a little fellow I was reciting my lesson to my mother, I suddenly exclaimed, ‘I feel cold.’ ‘Nonsense,’ said my mother. ‘You ain’t cold.’ But in a few minutes hail was falling, beating on the veranda and one of the native boys came in holding his two hands full of it.”[389]
Reverend Johnson passed away in 1867, and the pastorate at the Wai‘oli Mission was taken over by Reverend Adamu Pali, a native Hawaiian from South Kohala on Hawai‘i Island. Abner and Lucy Wilcox made a return visit to their original home in Connecticut in 1869, their first trip home since leaving for Hawai‘i in 1836 with the Eighth Company of American Protestant missionaries.
Accompanied by their youngest son Henry, Abner and Lucy crossed the United States Mainland from Californiavia the new transcontinental railroad. They dropped Henry off in California where their oldest son Charles was employed with the brother of Lucy Wilcox.
“The overland journey was far harder than sailing round the Horn, and somewhere the germs of chills and fever were taken on. No luxuries such as Pullman sleepers and diners existed on this first trans-continental railroad...Abner and Lucy carried baskets of food for the week’s wearisome journey over a rough roadbed, and sat up all night on the hard seats of draughty, dusty day coaches. Hold-ups by Indians were not infrequent.”
Ethel M. Damon[390]
Tragically, both Abner and Lucy Wilcox contracted malarial fever and died soon after they reached their New England home. They had intended to return to Kaua‘i after their Mainland visit, but this was not to be.
Edward Wilcox wrote to his brother an account of the sad events: “They were worn out with the journey. I had not thought of their being even dangerously sick...but about noon she [Lucy] was taken with chills...and about three, died. It was so unexpected. The day of the funeral Father [Abner] was looking and feeling so well that we all thought he would be over his sickness in a short time; but from Saturday evening he was worse. He died Friday Morning...we buried him by Mother...just one week between their deaths.”[391]
Lucy Wilcox passed away on August 13, 1869. Abner Wilcox passed away on August 20, 1869. Abner and Lucy Wilcox left a legacy on Kaua‘i not only in their enduring mission work but also in their many sons, who would go on to leave their own legacies.
George Wilcox built Grove Farm Sugar Plantation into a massive and profitable enterprise and then used his great wealth to become one of Kaua‘i’s most generous philanthropists. George was also a member of every Hawaiian legislative body from 1888 until 1898, and served as King Kalākaua’s prime minister in 1892.
Albert Wilcox was a member of the House of Representatives of the Hawaiian Kingdom from 1891 to 1892, and helped to found the Samuel Mahelona Memorial Hospital at Kapa‘a with Mabel Wilcox, the daughter of Samuel and Emma Wilcox. Mabel was selected by the Territorial Board of Health as Kaua‘i’s first public health nurse in 1913, and Kaua‘i’s Territorial Board of Health Tuberculosis Nurse from 1914 to 1917. She also volunteered for duty in World War I, serving for 18 months in Belgium and France.
Samuel Wilcox became Sheriff of Kaua‘i in 1872, and served in that capacity for 25 years. He was also a member of the House of Representatives in 1901-1902 and a Senator from 1903 to 1907.
Elsie Wilcox along with her sister Mabel helped to found Wilcox Memorial Hospital with funding provided by the trust of their uncle George. Elsie was also Chairman of the Kaua‘i Board of Child Welfare and Commissioner of Education for twelve years, resigning to take a post as the first woman Senator in the Territorial Legislature and serving in that capacity for eight years.
Russian Forts in Hanalei
Western presence on Kaua‘i wasn’t confined only to sailors and missionaries. Various trading prospects were developing in the Hawaiian Islands, and several major countries began to take an interest in establishing a presence on Kaua‘i and securing future trading opportunities.
When the 210-ton, three-masted Behring wrecked on the shores of Kaua‘i’s Waimea Bay early on the morning of January 31, 1815, it began a 2½-year sequence of events involving foreigners and the construction of various stone and earthen forts on Kaua‘i, including two in the Hanalei region.
The Behring was under the command of Captain Bennett when it anchored at Waimea Bay with a load of sealskins (otter pelts) bound for the Russian-American Company’s headquarters at Sitka, Alaska, which at the time was the capital of Russian-America. After Bennett went ashore, southwest winds intensified rapidly and pushed the Behring onto the beach.
King Kaumuali‘i, Kaua‘i’s vassal ruler who had ceded Kaua‘i to King Kamehameha I in 1810, seized the Behring’scargo and had the valuable pelts taken to his home near Makaweli in west Kaua‘i. In response, the Russian-American Company’s governor, Alexander Baranov, sent German-born Georg Anton (Egor Nikoloaevich) Schäffer[392] to theHawaiian Islands to retrieve the cargo, which was worth about 20,000 piastries.
Schäffer, who was born in Germany, had previously been a surgeon in the Russian army. In 1812, he helped to build hot air balloons in Moscow to observe the movements of Napoleon’s armies. Schäffer later became a ship’s surgeon with the Russian-American Company.
If Schäffer could not retrieve the cargo on Kaua‘i, he was to seek a fair amount of the native sandalwood as payment for the furs. Schäffer’s seemingly simple mission for Baranov turned into much more as he became carried away by visions of colonial Russian power and delusions of personal grandeur.
In his initial adventures on the islands of Hawai‘i and O‘ahu, Schäffer angered American traders and fell out of favor with King Kamehameha’s advisors. Schäffer then traveled to Kaua‘i, and in the spring of 1816 two Russian ships, the Otkrytie and Ilmena, carrying forty Aleuts and several Russians, arrived to support Schäffer’s mission.
Schäffer quickly ingratiated himself with Kaumuali‘i, who had been the last island ruler to surrender to Kamehameha’s control. Schäffer gained favor with the vassal ruler when he cured Kaumuali‘i of dropsy and then cured the fever of Kaumuali‘i’s wife.
Kaumuali‘i returned to Schäffer what was left of the shipwrecked Behring’s cargo, and Schäffer soon managed to convince Kaumuali‘i that the strength of Russia could be used to throw off the rule of King Kamehameha. Such an offer, however, had not been authorized by anyone in Russia.
Schäffer’s offer appealed to Kaumuali‘i, who had long been unhappy with Kamehameha’s total domination, and saw an association with Russia (Schäffer) as a chance to reclaim his own independence as ruler of Kaua‘i. Alliance with Western powers had worked for Kamehameha. Why should they not work for him? Just as Kamehameha had utilized foreigners and Western weapons, so too could he.
On May 21, 1816, and without the knowledge or approval of Czar Alexander Pavlovich, Kaumuali‘i signed a document that put Kaua‘i under the protection of the Russian Empire. In return, Schäffer promised Kaumuali‘i an armed Russian warship to lead an attack on Kamehameha’s forces. Unaware that Schäffer was promising more than he could deliver, Kaumuali‘i agreed to the arrangement and was promised Russian protection as well as a ship that was to be the beginning of Kaua‘i’s naval forces.
On July 1, 1816, Schäffer and Kaumuali‘i entered into a secret agreement to use Schäffer’s (purported) Russian authority to reclaim Kaua‘i from King Kamehameha I, and also to launch expeditions against other islands that Kaumuali‘i felt he had a hereditary right to rule. Kaumuali‘i had thoughts of conquering Maui, Lāna‘i, Moloka‘i, and O‘ahu, which he felt to be his right based on lineage.
Schäffer designated Kaumuali‘i an officer in the Russian navy, complete with a uniform and a silver medal, and in turn asked for permanent trading posts for the Russian-American Company as well as exclusive trading rights, including rights to export sandalwood.
Kaumuali‘i had previously pledged allegiance to King Kamehameha I, and thus his agreement with Schäffer was considered treasonous. Kaumuali‘i promised Schäffer half of O‘ahu as well as rights to all of the valuable sandalwood growing on O‘ahu. Schäffer was to supply ships, ammunition, and men, while Kaumuali‘i would supply 500 men as well as food and provisions for the forces.
On September 12, 1816, with the assistance of Kaumuali‘i’s men and a few hundred Aleut Indians, Schäffer began building a lava-rock fort on the east bank of the Waimea River. This sacred site on Waimea Bay was formerly known as Pa‘ula‘ula o Hipo (“Red Enclosure of Hipo”).
Schäffer’s fort was built in the design of a six-pointed star, and included thirty-eight cannons to protect trading vessels arriving at the important anchorage. The Russian flag was raised over Fort Elizabeth, named in honor of the consort of the Russian Emperor, Empress Elizabeth (1779-1826). For unknown reasons, Schäffer misspelled the name as “Elisabeth,” and a sign at the site still uses this spelling. The fort’s walls totaled about 1,200 feet (366 m) in length, standing up to 20 feet (6 m) high and 17 feet (5 m) wide at the base.
Schäffer’s grandiose gestures were not confined to fort-building. He was also able to take possession of the shipLydia by sending the ship’s captain to the headquarters of the Russian-American Company at Sitka for a payment (which was never received).
Schäffer promptly gave the Lydia to Kaumuali‘i, who in turn granted Schäffer ownership of the valley of Hanalei, which at the time included at least 30 families. Presumably Schäffer was to assume something similar to the traditional role of konohiki, or headman of the Hanalei ahupua‘a (natural watershed land division), and the accompanying land and fishing rights.
With the encouragement of Kaumuali‘i, Schäffer renamed Hanalei Valley, calling it Schäfferthal (“Schäffer Valley” in German), and reputedly he also gave Russian names to some of the Hawaiians living there. A formal transfer of ownership took place on October 6, 1816, “with the Russian flag flying, a twenty-one gun salute, and toasts.”[393]
Schäffer began work on two earthen fortresses in Hanalei: Fort Alexander, named after the Czar Alexander and built on the bluff above the Hanalei River near the current location of the Princeville Hotel; and Fort Barclay, named forRussian general Barclay deTooly and built nearer to Hanalei River.
Meanwhile, rumors of Schäffer’s rash activities had filtered back to the czar’s court. On November 21, 1816, Lieutenant Otto von Kotzebue arrived in Hawai‘i on the Russian Navy brig Rurik. He repudiated Schäffer’s acts, informing King Kamehameha that Schäffer and Kaumuali‘i did not have the support of the Russian Emperor. Things came to a head a few weeks later when natives killed a Russian and set fire to some buildings near Fort Alexander at Hanalei. Aleuts from Russian Alaska carried water from the marsh below in an attempt to extinguish the flames.[394]
In May of 1817, as part of a plot by Americans in Hawai‘i to make Kaumuali‘i think twice about his association with Russia, Kaumuali‘i was informed (wrongly) that Russia and America were at war. The implication was that by coming under Russian protection, Kaumuali‘i had declared himself an enemy of the United States—something he had not bargained for. The plan worked perfectly, and Kaumuali‘i promptly renounced the deal with Schäffer, who was quickly run out of Waimea.
Schäffer then sailed to Hanalei on the Kodiak, which was leaking badly. The Hawaiians and others onshore at Hanalei had already killed two Aleuts. Schäffer fired a three-gun salute as he raised a Russian flag at Fort Alexander. This angered Hanalei’s natives, who attacked the fort and wounded an Aleut. In return, the Russians fired their six-pounder cannons.
Some of Schäffer’s men left for Sitka, but Schäffer sailed for Honolulu on the unseaworthy Kodiak. The ship was taking on about two feet of water per hour and took about five days to reach Honolulu, barely making the voyage as the crew continuously pumped water from the ship. After reaching O‘ahu, Schäffer was told not to come ashore unless he wanted to surrender all his arms and be taken to Hawai‘i Island as a prisoner.
Fortunately for Schäffer, the American vessel Panther just happened to arrive in O‘ahu under the command of Captain Isaiah Lewis, who had been treated medically by Schäffer a year earlier. On July 7, 1817, Lewis provided Schäffer safe passage from the Hawaiian Islands. In 1821, Schäffer emigrated to Brazil, where he purchased a title for himself. Thereafter he was known as Count von Frankenthal, and was made a nobleman by Emperor Dom Pedro I.
Much of Fort Elizabeth in Waimea was dismantled in 1864, having long since been abandoned. Today a significant amount of the once formidable stone-walled structure still stands. An outline of the foundation of Fort Alexander may be seen on the lawn just above the Princeville Hotel. A small pavilion at the site provides information about the old fort.
Westward of [Hanalei Valley] there is a region of mountains, slashed by deep ravines. The upper ridges are densely timbered, and many of the ohias have a circumference of twenty-five feet three feet from the ground. It was sad to turn away forever from the loveliness of Hanalei, even though by taking another route, which involved a ride of forty miles, I passed through and in view of, most entrancing picturesqueness. Indeed, for mere loveliness, I think that part of Kauai exceeds anything that I have seen.
Isabella Bird Bishop, 1873[395]
The Sinking of Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i—Cleopatra’s Barge
The elegant royal ship Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i, originally known as Cleopatra’s Barge, was perhaps the most famous sailing vessel ever owned by the Hawaiian monarchy. Purchased by King Kamehameha II (Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho) in 1820, the ship sank in Hanalei Bay four years later.
The Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i was built far from the Islands, 7,000 miles away in the harbor of Salem, Massachusetts.George Crowninshield Jr., heir to a shipping fortune, commissioned the Salem shipbuilding firm of Retire Becket to construct Cleopatra’s Barge, the first ocean-going yacht in the United States built solely for pleasure rather than commerce or war.
George Crowninshield Sr. earned a sizeable fortune through privateering during the Revolutionary War and the War of 1812, and then became the head of a shipping firm called George Crowninshield and Sons. The shipping firm dissolved in 1815.
Measuring 100 feet (30 m) along its deck and 83 feet (25 m) long at its waterline, Cleopatra’s Barge cost about $50,000 to build and another $50,000 to furnish. The ship had five staterooms, a large forecastle, and mahogany paneling inlaid with bird’s-eye maple and other fine woods. Known as a hermaphrodite brig, the extravagant vessel had a main mast that was square-rigged, while the fore and aft sails were rigged on the mizzen.
Thousands of visitors came to see Cleopatra’s Barge as it was being built in the Salem, Massachusetts harbor. The ship’s name comes from the famous William Shakespeare play Anthony and Cleopatra in a description of how the barge appeared as it carried Cleopatra on the river of Cydnus:
“The barge she sat in, like a burnish’d throne,
Burn’d on the water: the poop was beaten gold;
Purple the sails, and so perfumed that
The winds were love-sick with them; the oars were silver,
Which to the tune of flutes kept stroke, and made
The water which they beat to follow faster,
As amorous of their strokes.
For her own person,
It beggar’d all description: she did lie
In her pavilion—cloth-of-gold of tissue—
O’er-picturing that Venus where we see
The fancy outwork nature: on each side her
Stood pretty dimpled boys, like smiling Cupids,
With divers-colour’d fans, whose wind did seem
To glow the delicate cheeks which they did cool,
And what they undid did.”
[Illustration: Cleopatra’s Barge]
In April of 1817, George Crowninshield Jr. journeyed on Cleopatra’s Barge to sixteen southern European and Mediterranean ports, where many thousands of visitors admired the American ship. After George Jr. passed away suddenly and unexpectedly, the ship’s expensive furnishings were auctioned off. In July of 1818, Cleopatra’s Barge was sold for $15,400.
The new owners of Cleopatra’s Barge, the Boston Merchant firm of Bryant and Sturgis, used the ship to carry a coffee shipment from Rio de Janeiro, but soon realized the vessel wasn’t a suitable cargo ship. Cleopatra’s Barge was then sent to the Hawaiian Islands in the hopes that it could be traded for fragrant and valuable sandalwood (Santalum species; Hawaiian name: ‘iliahi), which could be sold for a profit in China.
Cleopatra’s Barge made the voyage to Hawai‘i in 1820 under the command of Captain John Suter. The ship was then purchased by King Kamehameha II, the 24-year-old son and successor of King Kamehameha I. Kamehameha II had begun his reign in 1819, and in November of 1820 he acquired Cleopatra’s Barge for a cargo of sandalwood (8,000 piculs) worth about $80,000 in China, yielding a significant profit for the firm of Bryant and Sturgis. At the time, sandalwood was selling for about $10 per picul.
After purchasing Cleopatra’s Barge, King Kamehameha II renamed the ship Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i (Pride of Hawai‘i), and used it as a royal pleasure craft, ship-of-state, merchant vessel, and for interisland travels that included transporting American missionaries.
On July 21, 1821, King Kamehameha II sailed to Kaua‘i on his royal ship to meet with Kaua‘i’s vassal ruler, Kaumuali‘i.
When King Kamehameha II arrived at Waimea, Kaumuali‘i pledged his allegiance to the monarch and accepted his sovereignty. Kaumuali‘i did this despite the fact that he had recently plotted with Georg Schäffer to overthrow the rule of the monarchy. King Kamehameha II then embarked on a 42-day tour of Kaua‘i, and upon the completion of his journey he invited King Kaumuali‘i to come aboard the Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i, which was again anchored in Waimea Bay. Once Kaumuali‘i was aboard, the King Kamehameha II set sail for O‘ahu, taking Kaumuali‘i as a prisoner.
Later on O‘ahu the powerful kuhina nui (premier) Ka‘ahumanu, the former queen as the wife of King Kamehameha I, married the captive Kaumuali‘i to ensure the monarchy’s control over Kaua‘i. Ka‘ahumanu furthered her efforts to eliminate potential threats to her power by also marrying Keali‘iahonui, the son of Kaumuali‘i by another wife. Kaumuali‘i passed away on O‘ahu in 1824.
When King Kamehameha II was away from the Islands visiting England with Queen Kamāmalu in 1824, a royal crew sailed the Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i to Kaua‘i, perhaps to investigate a possible insurrection there. It would be the ship’s last journey. On April 5, 1824, the Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i became shipwrecked at the mouth of the Wai‘oli River in Hanalei Bay, and was abandoned.
The king and queen would never learn of the fate of the Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i. Queen Kamāmalu died of measles on July 8, 1824, and less than one week later King Kamehameha II also died of the disease. Ironically, the royal couple had originally intended to sail to Europe on the Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i, but a late change of plans led them to instead sail on the whale ship L’Aigle. The king died without ever receiving news that his elegant ship-of-state had met its demise on the reefs of Hanalei Bay.
In a written account, missionary Hiram Bingham blamed the shipwreck of Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i on a drunken crew. Others dispute this cause, instead blaming the ship’s captain, the weather, and even the natives of Kaua‘i, who did have a potential motive since their former ruler, Kaumuali‘i, was at the time being held in Honolulu as a virtual prisoner of King Kamehameha II. A few days after the shipwreck of the Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i, a salvage attempt was witnessed by missionary Reverend Hiram Bingham.
Bingham’s account states: “After the people had, with commendable activity, brought on shore from the wreck, spars, rigging, and other articles they attempted to draw up the brig itself. This furnished one of the best specimens of the physical force of the people, which I ever had opportunity to observe for more than twenty years among them—indeed the most striking which I ever saw made by unaided human muscles.”[396]
Bingham tells of how the natives wove rope from the bark of the hau tree, “and with their hands without any machinery, made several thousand yards of strong rope...twelve folds of this they made into a cable. Three cables of this kind they prepared for the purpose of dragging up the wreck of the Cleopatra’s Barge on shore.”[397]
Three ropes were attached to the ship’s mainmast, and the men were directed by an older man named Kiaimakani (“Wind watcher”), who “passed up and down through the different ranks...the old chieftain, with the natural tones and inflections, instructed them to grasp the ropes firmly, rise together at the signal, and leaning inland, to look and draw straight forward, without looking backwards toward the vessel.”[398]
Unfortunately the ship’s main mast snapped and the huge vessel rolled back, ending the salvage efforts. A large man named Kiu was descending the ship’s mainmast as it splintered. The natives feared he had been killed, and they rushed to see what had happened. Fortunately they discovered Kiu swimming in the water on the ocean side of the wreck.
“...the ancient meles of Hawaii, prayers for divine aid and means of infusing the swing of rhythm into prolonged muscular effort, old songs of an almost vanished folk disappearing before the steam-roller, as it were of civilization which would iron every folk out on the same model. Such a prayer of olden days was heard there at Hanalei, chanted by one trained in the art, to swing the waiting multitude into the rhythm of concerted action. It was an ancient and popular song, used when a tree for a canoe was to be drawn from the mountains to the shore, rehearsed with great rapidity and surprising fluency.
The multitude quietly listening some six or eight minutes, at a particular turn or passage in the song indicating the order to march, rose together, and as the song continued with increasing volubility and force, slowly moved forward in silence; and all strained their huge ropes, tugging together to heave up the vessel. The brig felt their power, rolled up slowly towards the shore, upon her keel, till her side came firmly against the rock [reef], and there instantly stopped: but the immense team moved unchecked; and the mainmast broke and fell with its shrouds, being taken off by the cables drawn by unaided muscular strength. The hull instantly rolled back to her former place, and was considered irrecoverable.”
Reverend Hiram Bingham, 1824[399]
In the 1850s, the builders of a small vessel at Wai‘oli paid native Hawaiians to retrieve an iron gun from the wreck of the Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i. Also retrieved from the 1824 shipwreck were the oak capstan (much decayed) and the iron post upon which it revolved.
In 1932, 93-year-old George Norton Wilcox recalled: “I was reading Your account of hauling on the Cleopatra’s Barge at Hanalei. It rolled back on to the reef. I wonder how it ever got over that reef into deep water inside the reef. Yes, I suppose some storm rolled it in.”[400]
George also recalled diving down to the wreck: “The natives told me it was five fathoms deep there where it lay. When I was a boy some divers went searching there to find a brass cannon that was said to be on it. But it must have been taken off long before. I tried to dive with the natives, but it was so deep I had to come up, couldn’t stand the pressure. The natives brought up some bolts encrusted with coral.”[401]
In 1995, researchers from the Smithsonian Institute rediscovered the shipwrecked Cleopatra’s Barge buried beneath the sands of Hanalei Bay. Many historic artifacts were recovered (see Part 5).
The Kaua‘i Rebellion
In 1824, after the death of Kaua‘i’s former ruler Kaumuali‘i, his son Humehume challenged the rule of King Kamehameha II (Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho) with a surprise attack on the fort at Waimea. The fort was successfully defended, and Humehume’s troops retreated to nearby Wahiawa and Hanapēpē.
King Kamehameha II was away in England at the time of Humehume’s attack on the fort. The king had left kuhina nui (premier) Ka‘ahumanu in charge of the Hawaiian monarchy. In response to Humehume’s rebellion, the well-armed troops of Ka‘ahumanu’s principal counselor Kalanimoku marched on Hanapēpē and the Wahiawa plains.
Kalanimoku (1768-1827) was also known as Billy Pitt, Kalanimoku was the right hand man, treasurer and principal counselor (kālaimoku) to King Kamehameha I and to later to kuhina nui (premier) Ka‘ahumanu. Kalanimoku was present at the death of Captain Cook, and took the nickname of “Billy Pitt” after William Pitt, the English Prime Minister; guardian of young Liholiho (the future King Kamehameha II).
Maui’s Governor Hoapili commanded the warrior force of Ka‘ahumanu, which included about 350 soldiers from Maui and as many as 1,000 O‘ahu soldiers. On August 18, 1824, Ka‘ahumanu’s warriors marched from Waimea to Hanapēpē and then continued for about two miles up the east side of Hanapēpē Valley.
Kalanimoku’s warriors easily defeated Humehume’s meager and ill-prepared forces, who were armed only with spears and relatively few muskets. An estimated 50 to 130 of Humehume’s group were killed, including women and children. It was said that many of the dead were left on the battlefield to be eaten by pigs, and thus the event became known as ‘Aipua‘a (“Pig eater”[402]).
Kalanimoku further avenged Humehume’s rebellious attack on the fort by searching out and slaughtering or deporting anyone remotely connected to the failed rebellion, including many Kaua‘i chiefs. Humehume, who had fled on horseback into the mountains with his wife and child, was captured about two weeks after the initial attack on the Waimea fort.
Ka‘ahumanu arrived on Kaua‘i on August 27, 1824 and soon replaced virtually all of Kaua‘i’s chiefs with chiefs from O‘ahu and Maui who were loyal to her and to King Kamehameha II.[403] Even Kaua‘i chiefs loyal to the monarchy were taken from their positions of power and replaced by O‘ahu and Maui chiefs, most of whom were relatives of King Kamehameha I.
A. Keali‘iahonui, the son of the former Kaua‘i ruler Kaumuali‘i, remained in control of the ahupua‘a of Kalihikai, the only region on Kaua‘i still under the control of a Kaua‘i native, [404] Kaikio‘ewa, a cousin of King Kamehameha I, was appointed governor of Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau, replacing Governor Kanoa. Humehume remained imprisoned on O‘ahu until his death of influenza on May 3, 1826.
[Photograph: Humehume]
Captain Kellett—Hanalei’s Pilot of the Port
One of the first Caucasians to settle in Hanalei was Englishman Captain John Kellett, who first arrived in the Islands in 1825 and came to Hanalei in 1836. Kellett served for many years as Hanalei’s Pilot of the Port (harbor pilot), overseeing the movement of ships arriving at Hanalei Bay. Kellett also kept a warehouse for produce being shipped from Hanalei.[405]
Captain Kellett built what came to be known as the Kellett House on a bluff called Lanihuli overlooking the ocean near the mouth of the Hanalei River. Kellett’s home played a prominent role in the early post-contact history of Hanalei.
“Mr. Kellet was the pilot at Hanalei harbor...he had a rather bent figure, was very spare, and had long white hair which hung in curly waves on his shoulders and he walked with his feet well turned out, as was the style of a man o’wars-man in those days. He had a Hawaiian wife and a family of two daughters Mary and Betty and five sons.”
Josephine Wundenberg King[406]
The Kellett house was often referred to as the Lanihuli home, or simply Lanihuli, the name of the area where it was built. According to legend, “when the Līhau-o-Lanihuli, ‘gentle cool rain of Lanihuli,’ blew, fishermen considered it a lucky omen and went to the river or sea.”[407]
The Kellett house at Lanihuli was home to Captain Kellett’s family for many years. The home was located on the rise between the Hanalei River and the plateau, and became a gathering place for visitors. The makai (seaward) side of the large Kellett house was rented to numerous different Hanalei families during Kellett’s lifetime, including the Dudoits, Rhodes, Wundenbergs, and Princeville Plantation owner Robert Crichton Wyllie.
Captain Jules Dudoit served as the first French Consul to Hawai‘i from 1837-1848. When Captain Belcher of theSulphur visited Hanalei in 1837 with Dudoit, he noted that “The Consul possesses a tract of land on which his tenant (Kellett, an Englishman) feeds cattle, makes butter, cheese, and farms to great advantage. I am certain that our men derived more nourishment from the cattle we embarked there than from any previous diet...I would therefore strongly advise ships of war to sacrifice much to secure these advantages.”[408]
Captain John Kellett passed away in 1877 and was buried at Lanihuli. One of the daughters of John and Becky Kellett was named Becky, and married Captain Hatfield, who commanded Robert Crichton Wyllie’s schooner, named thePrince of Hawaii.
Two children of John and Becky Kellett were Mrs. Birkmyre and Mrs. Makee, who lived in Hanalei. Another daughter of Captain Kellett, Mary, married Hiram Friedenberg, who grew up in Kōloa and later grew sugarcane in Hanalei.
Children of Hiram Friedenberg included Mrs. Deverill, Mrs. Radway, and Mrs. Lindley.[409] By the early 1900s the Kellett House fell into disrepair, and soon was beyond reclamation. “On the bluff of Lanihuli, overlooking the ocean,” wrote Ethel Damon in 1931, “lived for forty years Captain Kellett, an Englishman...He built the quaint, rambling house at Lanihuli, now, alas, almost in ruins...”[410]
Robert Crichton Wyllie, Minister of Foreign Affairs for the Hawaiian Kingdom and owner of the Princeville Plantation, rented half of the Kellett house for use as a summer residence and for his English-style entertainment. Wyllie often allowed visitors to stay there when he was gone, and he had a Chinese cook named Koka (also spelled Goka).[411]
The daughter of the Princeville Plantation manger recalled: “Our servants were all Hawaiians with the exception of Goka a Chinese steward, who was a very superior man...and kept a store on the hill near Lanehule [Lanihuli].”[412]Koka’s younger brother, Ah Poi, came from China to run the business with him, “and they were most successful.”[413]Koka later married a part-Hawaiian, part-Caucasian woman and returned to China.
“We kept no cows...in the valley, and had to buy our milk from Mr. Kellet. He sold it at a rial (12½ cents) a gallon.”
Josephine Wundenberg King[414]
Charles Titcomb—Silk, Coffee, Sugar, and “Emmasville”
Foreigners attempting agricultural pursuits in the Islands quickly came to appreciate the fertile soils on the coastal plain of Hanalei. The ready water supply and warm climate made Hanalei the site of many agricultural endeavors in the early 1800s. Land use in the region changed from primarily taro and other traditional Hawaiian crops to a variety of new agricultural products, some of which were more successful than others.
Charles Titcomb was one of Hanalei’s first foreign agricultural entrepreneurs, and perhaps the most persistent. By profession a watch-maker, Titcomb began his attempt to build an industry of silk production in 1836 with an extensive silk cocoonery in Hanalei. His silkworm operation extended along the banks of the Hanalei River, about one mile up from the ocean, on 90 acres of land leased from King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli).
Captain Belcher of the Sulphur noted in 1837 that “A new house had been erected, ground fenced in, and an extensive plantation of mulberry trees were in full vigour, preparatory to the introduction of the silk-worm.”[415]
Titcomb initially planted about 25 acres of mulberry trees, and by 1840 he had about 100,000 of the trees growing to provide food for an estimated 500,000 silkworms imported from China and America. The trees were of the native or black mulberry varieties, as well as species imported from the United States. Species included white, Canton, and Morus multicaulis.
Titcomb raised the crossbred Chinese-American silkworm, which produced a pale yellow silk (sometimes straw to orange-colored), and the American silkworm, which produced a coarser, white silk.
Titcomb was said to be the first person to export silk from the Hawaiian Islands, producing several high-quality crops that he sold for a high price to Mazatlan and Mexico City.[416] He also employed many native Hawaiians and considered the Hawaiian women “skilful in the art of reeling the delicate threads from the tiny cocoons.”[417]
About 5,500 silkworm cocoons were required to produce one pound of reeled silk, with one acre of trees producing about 50 pounds of raw silk. Hawai‘i’s rich soil and warm, moist climate allowed the mulberry trees to grow extremely fast—up to one inch per day.
Despite some initial success, Titcomb’s silkworm enterprise suffered numerous setbacks and he struggled to make a profit. Titcomb eventually abandoned the silkworm enterprise due to droughts, insect pests, and strong seasonal winds that stripped the trees of their leaves. A major drought affected the region in 1840, and insect pests affecting the silk enterprise included a large spider species. Another obstacle was the fact that the worms needed daily feeding but missionaries discouraged work on the Sabbath, which was traditionally a day of rest.
By 1844, Titcomb had transferred his energies to the production of coffee, after “securing berries from the Kona fields of Messrs. Hall and Cummings.”[418] Titcomb’s coffee plantation put him in direct competition with his neighbors, Englishman Godfrey Rhodes and Frenchman John Bernard, who had started their own coffee plantation in Hanalei in 1842.
Titcomb hired children of the nearby Select School at Wai‘oli to tend to his thousands of coffee plants growing near the Hanalei River. He provided the students with hoes and also allowed them to plant beans between the rows of coffee for their own use.
The lack of a paper currency in Hawai‘i had long been a problem for Titcomb. George Norton Wilcox recalled, “Paper money? No, I don’t remember ever seeing paper money at Hanalei. Perhaps I was too young to use it. But I suppose that was what old Titcomb was always growling about, complaining that the government would not make it official coinage.”[419]
Eventually, Titcomb and other early immigrant agricultural entrepreneurs procured some of the first paper currency in the Islands. The money was produced by Judge Andrews, who “engraved small currency for the settlers, Bernard, Titcomb and Kellett, of Hanalei.”[420]
In 1844, the students of the Select School earned “about $500.00 in paper currency or trade for cultivating [Titcomb’s] thousands of coffee plants on the Hanalei river, after the young plants were set out.”[421]
By 1846, more than 100,000 coffee trees were growing in Hanalei Valley on the coffee plantations of Titcomb and his neighbors John Bernard and Godfrey Rhodes.
Titcomb’s coffee mill consisted of a mule turning a perpendicular post fitted at the top with a horizontal cog wheel that turned a flay wheel connected by bands to the milling machinery. Titcomb’s house and sheds “stood on the left hand side of the present road as one follows through the valley, about half way between the big bridge and the first group of stores.”[422]
Despite initial success, coffee production in Hanalei eventually came to an end due to several factors, including the loss of laborers to the California Gold Rush in the 1840s, floods in 1847, a drought in 1851, and blight due to the white hairy louse (an aphid species).
In 1855, R. C. Wyllie bought Godfrey Rhodes’ business interest in the Hanalei plantation for $8,000. The sizeable coffee plantations of both Titcomb and Wyllie soon succumbed to the various problems, and both men took to growing sugarcane.[423] By 1862, the uprooted coffee trees were being used to fuel sugar boilers.
[Photographs: Titcomb, Rhodes, Wyllie]
“The coffee blight has already covered the two Hanalei plantations which in the spring of 1857 we saw in full and successful culture, yielding 200,000 pounds of excellent coffee. The scores of women and children were busy picking the ripe berries and depositing their gathering at night at the overseer’s office, but now all is silent. Not a gatherer was abroad and we saw laborers bringing in coffee trees upon their shoulders, to heat the sugar boilers of Mr. Titcomb.”
Reverend Samuel C. Damon
Note: Damon’s account was written for the newspaper The Friend, of which he was editor, and was cited in: Korn, Alfons L. The Victorian Visitors; An Account of the Hawaiian Kingdom, 1861-1866. Honolulu: University of HawaiiPress, 1958.
Entrepreneurial and determined, Titcomb began a sugar plantation and built a crude sugar mill that used four or five horses to turn the rollers. Titcomb’s mill “had no centrifugals to dry his sugar but his golden syrup was beautiful,”[424]according to Hanalei resident Josephine Wundenberg King.
Desiring to boost production, Titcomb asked the captain of a whaling vessel headed south to bring him new varieties of sugarcane. The whaling ship George Washington under the command of Captain Pardon Edwards returned to Hawai‘i from Tahiti in 1854 with the sugarcane varieties requested by Titcomb, but Edwards sailed to Lahaina instead of Hanalei and Titcomb never received the samples.
The new sugarcane varieties were propagated by United States Consul Chase who “planted them in his garden, where both varieties, Tahiti and Cuban, flourished.”[425] The lush growth of the new varieties attracted the attention of Hawai‘i’s sugarcane farmers, and within a few years cuttings were being widely planted. The Tahitian variety eventually came to be known as Lahaina cane, and was preferred because it grew fast and had high yields as well as a hard rind that deterred rodents and other pests.[426]
In 1856, after King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani) married Emma Na‘ea Rooke, at Kawaiaha‘o Church, and then the royal newlyweds visited Kaua‘i as part of a “Royal Progress” through the Hawaiian Islands.
Emma Na‘ea (Queen Emma), was the adopted daughter of Dr. Rooke, and was given the name Kalanikaumakeamano at birth, taking the name Kaleleonalani after her husband and son died. She was Hawai‘i’s queen as the wife of King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani), and was the mother of Prince Albert Edward Kauikeaouli. Queen Emma was the daughter of George Na‘ea and Fanny Kekelaokalani Young, and the granddaughter of John Young and Ka‘o‘ana‘eha (parents of Fanny Kekelaokalani Young). Queen Emma was the great granddaughter of Keli‘imaika‘i (brother of King Kamehameha I) and Kaliko‘okalani (parents of Ka‘o‘ana‘eha). Queen Emma was also the great great granddaughter of Keōua Kupuapāikalaninui and Keku‘iapoiwa II (parents of Keli‘imaika‘i).
In Hanalei, the royal couple King Kamehameha IV and Queen Emma stayed at Charles Titcomb’s coffee plantation in Hanalei, and to honor the Queen, Titcomb changed the name of his plantation to “Emmasville.”
On February 5, 1863, Princeville Plantation owner R. C. Wyllie paid $29,000 to purchase about 750 acres of Titcomb’s 956 acres at “Emmasville.”[427] Titcomb retained ownership of his sugar and coffee mills. Titcomb then moved to Kīlauea, “where he had already, on January 27, 1863, secured from Kamehameha 4th for $2000 the Grant to the Ahupuaa of Kilauea.”[428]
Titcomb built a home in Kīlauea and lived there until he passed away in 1883, two years after the passing of his wife. The Titcombs were laid to rest in a family cemetery in back of their Kīlauea home, where their son Charles was also buried.[429] In the early 1900s, the Kīlauea home was used as the Plantation Hospital.
Kaua‘i’s First Cattle Ranch
Another significant foreign influence on Kaua‘i’s north shore in the early 1800s was the cattle ranch of Englishman Richard Charlton, which was later purchased and run by Captain Jules Dudoit. The ranch was founded on August 27, 1831 when Charlton, the British Consul for Hawai‘i in Honolulu, secured a 20-year lease from Kaua‘i’s Governor Kaikio‘ewa for a portion of Hanalei from the eastern side of Hanalei Valley to Kalihiwai.[430]
With longhorn cattle brought from “Norte California,”[431] Charlton started one of the first cattle ranches in the Hawaiian Islands, and the first on Kaua‘i. By 1840, Charlton had about 100 head of cattle. Charlton’s fee for use of the Hanalei area land was to be paid with lumber, “560 boards,”[432] to be cut by Charlton and used by King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) to build a house. Apparently the fee was never paid by Charlton, yet he retained use of the land until the lease was purchased by Jules Dudoit in 1845.
Captain Jules Dudoit served as the first French Consul to Hawai‘i from 1837-1848, during which time there was a controversy regarding Catholic priests from France in Hawai‘i, as well as significant disagreements of about the importation of alcohol. Dudoit moved to Hanalei with his family in 1848 after retiring from the consulship.
From 1848 until the early 1850s, the Dudoits, including their five children (Maude, Adele, Blanche, Charles, and Jules), lived in the Kellett House. Dudoit exported butter and packed salt beef for whaling ships, and also shipped beef to Honolulu. Behind the Kellett home was an area where cattle were slaughtered. Elsie Wilcox noted that the slaughter-pens “were in the little valley back of the Lanihuli home, directly back of where Mr. Birkmyer’s house now stands.”[433]
Jules Dudoit owned the brigantine John Dunlap, which often made trips across the Ka‘ie‘iewaho Channel (Kaua‘i Channel) between Kaua‘i and O‘ahu and provided one of Hanalei’s few sources of supplies from Honolulu at the time, and in turn purchasing cattle and salt beef from Hanalei. Mrs. Dudoit was the daughter of renowned explorer Peter Corney, an employee of the Hudson Bay Company and author of The Early Voyages of Peter Corney.
Living with Mr. and Mrs. Dudoit in Hanalei was the wife of Peter Corney as well as three of the Corney children: Fanny, Emily, and Peter. Jules Dudoit had traveled to Hawai‘i on a ship with the Corneys, who were going on to meet their father, Peter Corney, in the Northwest. Upon learning of their father’s death, the Corney family remained in the Hawaiian Islands where one of the daughters married Jules Dudoit.
When Albert Lyman of Connecticut sailed the trading schooner Samuel Roberts into Hanalei Bay in 1850 he noted, “We every day procure a bucket of the most delicious rich and new milk from the estate of Mr. Dudaver/Dudoit, on which he has about 1800 head of fine cattle. Milk is a most acceptable article on board, and a rare treat for us all.”[434]
Jules Dudoit purchased a Grant to the Namahana land in the Ko‘olau district from Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) for $603 and moved there with his family.[435] In 1862, Dudoit sold his Kaua‘i property to Samuel Clark and moved to Honolulu.
Jules Dudoit was murdered in 1866 while sleeping in bed. The crime was committed by Dudoit’s Chinese cook, apparently because the cook’s wages “had been docked for broken crockery.”[436] Mrs. Dudoit narrowly escaped death in the incident, but then went on to live a long life, passing away in 1903.
The Great Māhele
On January 27, 1848, the total control of Hawai‘i’s land by King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) ended with the institution of a new system of private property ownership known as the Great Māhele (“mahele” means division), with the king dividing the land between himself and 245 of his chiefs.
Note: The term “Great” is not always used, since some people do not consider the institution of private property ownership in Hawai‘i a “Great,” event, as it eventually led to Hawaiian commoners owning less than one percent of Hawai‘i’s land.
The Māhele was completed on March 7, 1848, and on the following day the remaining land was divided between the king and the government. The end result was that about 24% of Hawai‘i’s land was owned by the king (Crown lands); 37% was owned by the government; and 38% was given to the ruling ali‘i (chiefs) (it was primarily this portion of Hawai‘i’s lands that became today’s private lands, sold and traded). Maka‘āinana (commoners) were able to apply for title to lands they cultivated, referred to as kuleana, and in 1850 the Kuleana Act was passed to define their rights and authorized a Land Commission to grant land titles.
The Board of Commissioners to Quiet Land Titles was usually simply called the Land Commission, and was appointed in December of 1845 by King Kamehameha II to determine land rights. In November of 1846, commoners were given the right to buy the land they cultivated in November of 1846, but the process for this to occur was not enacted into law until August of 1850.
The Land Commission was dissolved in 1855. Requirements for maka‘āinana to be granted land included having the land surveyed, filing a claim with the Land Commission, and proving the land was being cultivated to earn a living
Throughout the archipelago, about 11,000 maka‘āinana (commoners) were granted about 28,600 acres (11,574 ha) of land.[437] The Indices of Awards in the Māhele recorded 70 kuleana grants in Wai‘oli, 55 in Hanalei, and 19 in Kalihikai.[438]
After the Great Māhele, the ahupua‘a of Hanalei was held as Crown lands by King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli). The ahupua‘a of Waipā was given to Princess Ruth Ke‘elikōlani, the great granddaughter of King Kamehameha I, and the ahupua‘a of Wai‘oli was considered government land.
Princess Ruth Ke‘elikōlani (1826-1883), was the daughter of Mataio Kekūanaō‘a and Kalani Pauahi; the wife of William Pitt Leleiōhoku (I); and the mother of William Pitt Kīna‘u. Princess Ruth Ke‘elikōlani’s second husband was Isaac Young Davis. On her mother’s side, Princess Ruth was the granddaughter of Keōuwahine and Pauli Ka‘ōleiokū, and great granddaughter of King Kamehameha I and Kānekapōlei (parents of Pauli Ka‘ōleiokū).
In 1850 the Legislature passed a law allowing non-Hawaiians (resident aliens) to own land in the Hawaiian Islands. By 1890, more than 75 percent of lands originally granted to chiefs was owned by non-Hawaiians.
The massive loss of Hawaiian-owned lands to non-Hawaiians was exacerbated by a law passed by the Legislature in 1874 removing mortgage transactions from the courts and placing them in private hands. This resulted in huge losses of lands by natives to non-Hawaiians in the 1880s. The law apparently allowed the lender to foreclose without notice then buy the land in a rigged auction.
Part 3
Royal Visits and the Story of Princeville (1850—1900)
By the mid-1800s, visits to Hanalei Bay by sandalwood traders and whalers decreased significantly, and the Hanalei region returned to relative isolation. The peak years of the sandalwood trade were from 1810 to 1840 as sandalwood forests were logged at a rapid pace to meet China’s growing market. By 1840, nearly all of Hawai‘i’s sandalwood trees of marketable size had been cut down.
The whaling era began in 1819 when the Equator and the Balena became the first whaling ships to stop in the Hawaiian Islands. The peak year for whaling ship arrivals was 1846 when at least 596 whaling ships crowded Hawaiian ports, including Kōloa on Kaua‘i’s south side.
Whale populations were diminishing rapidly in the 184s due to over-harvesting. In 1849 oil was discovered in Pennsylvania, and became the new source of lubricants for industry, bringing an end of the whaling industry and Hawai‘i’s whaling era.
Hanalei’s increasing isolation after the sandalwood and whaling eras caused problems for anyone needing off-island products. A steamer named West Point had established a profitable trade by stopping in Hanalei Bay as it made regular trips around the Hawaiian Islands, but the untimely sinking of the ship ended its visits to Hanalei. Various crops were grown to provide products with a local demand including cotton grown at Wai‘oli in 1848 to supply a small cloth factory run by Joseph Gardner.
An 1857, a Pacific Commercial Advertiser article stated: “The trade of the port [Hanalei Bay] is now very limited and is confined to a few coasting vessels, which supply the wants of the natives and the coffee plantations. Whale ships seldom visit the port now.”[439]
The newspaper also mentioned Hanalei’s agricultural and cattle ranching endeavors: “The two largest coffee plantations on the islands are located here [Hanalei], producing annually 150,000 to 200,000 lbs. of coffee. In the neighborhood of the port several thousand head of cattle run wild, and in former years considerable quantities of beef were packed here, but owing to the poor and irregular facilities for sending it to market, it has been entirely broken up.”[440]
Many fruits and vegetables were grown in the Hanalei region throughout the 1800s, including significant quantities of oranges, lemons, peaches, pineapples, tamarinds, mulberries, guavas, and plantains.
Species introduced by the Polynesians before Western contact also continued to be grown, including mai‘a (bananas), ‘ulu (breadfruit), and niu (coconuts). Samuel Whitney Wilcox recalled that during his childhood in the mid-1800s “we did have oranges at Waioli! Right there on our own place, and hundreds of trees in the valleys. Wainiha was full of such oranges, the sweetest and juiciest I’ve ever tasted.”[441]
Princess Ruth Visits Hanalei
The Hawaiian monarchy paid numerous visits to Hanalei in the 1800s. King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) came in 1852. King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani) and Queen Emma came to Hanalei in 1856 and returned in 1860 with their two-year-old son, Prince Albert Kauikeaouli, inspiring Hanalei plantation owner R. C. Wyllie to name his growing estate “Princeville.” Princess Lili‘uokalani sailed into Hanalei Bay in 1881 and returned as Queen Lili‘uokalani in 1891.
Princess Ruth Ke‘elikōlani arrived in Hanalei in 1867 on the U.S.S. Lackawanna, which was under the command of Captain Reynolds. Reynolds first came to Kaua‘i with the Wilkes Expedition in 1840. In 1852, Reynolds grew corn on 100 acres he leased at Malumalu. Rejoining the Union Navy in 1861, he served in the Civil War and then was given command of the Lackawanna in 1867.
Also on board with Reynolds arriving at Hanalei were Reynold’s wife, Mrs. Dudoit, and Emily Corney, the wife of Hudson Bay Company employee Peter Corney who wrote The Early Voyages of Peter Corney.
Princess Ruth was renowned for her appeasing of the volcano goddess Pele during the 1880 eruption of Mauna Loa Volcano on Hawai‘i Island. When the eruption threatened the town of Hilo, Princess Ruth supplicated Pele with chants and gifts, and the lava flow stopped at the edge of town.
During her 1867 visit to Hanalei, Princess Ruth stayed at the Wai‘oli home of Judge Wana. Josephine Wundenberg King, who was a child at the time, recalled seeing Princess Ruth “lounging on the beach with her retainers and her two little white poodle dogs of whom she was very fond. The other ladies visited at Princeville, and John Low the manager entertained the party quite extensively, getting up a large picnic and fish or ‘Kahe’ drive on the Hanalei river near Kuna.”[442]
“ The Kahe was built in the middle of the river near the rapids by a fine kukui grove where the ahaaina [‘aha‘aina] or feast was spread. When school was out Julia Johnson and I rode up the river bank to the rendezvous, and as we neared the spot where the fish were being driven down and caught, we saw [Princess] Ruth in a pink Muumuu having a bath and finally getting into the ‘Kahe’ [run of fish] and catching the mullet herself, beheading and enjoying the tid-bits that she found. When she emerged later from her dressing room in the guava bushes in her black silk holoku[443] she looked quite regal and happy as she embraced her lady friends and saluted them in the usual Hawaiian manner.”
Josephine Wundenberg King[444]
The Lackawanna engaged in several days of target practice in north shore waters, and invited prominent local persons aboard “to luncheon and to witness the exercises which I [Josephine] certainly did not enjoy. The reports from the guns were deafening and the smell of the powder and smoke sickening.”[445]
When Princess Ruth passed away in 1883 she bequeathed to Princess Bernice Pauahi Pākī Bishop the ahupua‘a of Waipā. As the great granddaughter of King Kamehameha I, Princess Pauahi was the potential heir to the throne. When she passed away in 1884 Princess Pauahi left her land in perpetual trust to assist in the establishment of Kamehameha Schools.
Princeville Plantation—Rhodes, Wundenberg, Wyllie, and Kikiula
Today, the sprawling resort at Princeville is a major economic force on Kaua‘i. The journey from the area’s humble beginnings through its incarnations as a plantation and ranch to its present grandeur is a long and interesting one.
The estate that would one day become “Princeville” began on September 8, 1842 when British subject and sea captain Godfrey Rhodes along with Frenchman John Bernard obtained a 50-year Government lease of 90 acres of land on the east side of the Hanalei River and 60 acres on the west side of the river. On this Hanalei land, Rhodes and Bernard began the first commercial coffee plantation in the Hawaiian Islands.[446]
In 1843-1844, Gottfried Frederick Wundenberg and Archibald Archer leased a portion of the Bernard/Rhodes land and also grew coffee in an area on the east side of Hanalei Valley known as Kuna. Wundenberg was an agriculturalist from Hanover, Germany. Before arriving in Hanalei, Wundenberg had been the secretary of Robert Crichton Wyllie, the Minister of Foreign Affairs for the Hawaiian Kingdom.
Rhodes left for Australia in 1844, selling his interest in the coffee operation to Bernard. The following year, Bernard traveled to Honolulu to deal with his financial troubles. When he left Honolulu to return to Kaua‘i on April 18, 1845, he boarded the schooner Paalua (which he had built) and sailed for Hanalei. Tragically, on April 19, 1845 thePaalua sank just a few hundred yards offshore of Hanalei, killing Bernard and several others.
“She was first struck by a heavy squall and then shipped a heavy sea which carried her under. The following persons were unfortunately drowned: Captain Bernard, Mr. Popelwell, and Mr. Higginbotham with his wife and two children. All the Hawaiians succeeded in reaching the land with the exception of a boy.”
The Friend, May, 1845 edition[447]
On June 16, 1845, Frenchman John Bernard’s estate in Hanalei was bought by John K. Von Pfister and Godfrey Rhodes. Rhodes had just returned from Sydney, Australia, and for a time he was in charge of the bark Clementine owned by Jules Dudoit, who became the French consul in Honolulu. Rhodes made numerous voyages to South America and the Northwest Coast, and many Hawaiians referred to him affectionately as Kapena Loke (“Captain Rose”).[448]
Rhodes and Von Pfister’s Hanalei estate became known as the Rhodes & Company Coffee Plantation. Rhodes built a home called Kikiula in 1845 on a plateau atop a bluff above a bend in the Hanalei River.[449] The two-room, stone plantation home was constructed with thick walls and deep-silled windows, and was plastered on the inside and outside. Notable for its spectacular mountain and valley views, Kikiula was located along the former road that descended into Hanalei Valley.
The sister of Godfrey Rhodes married an expert horticulturalist named Thomas Brown who worked with Rhodes to build a substantial coffee plantation of nearly 1,000 acres. Josephine Wundenberg King recalled: “Mrs. Rhodes had a beautiful garden and many flowers that we never see any more. She came from Australia and must have gotten her seeds from there.”[450]
Mr. and Mrs. Brown and their four children lived in Wailua on the eastern side of Kaua‘i. Josephine Wundenberg King recalled a childhood journey in 1852 to visit the Browns in Wailua: “We were carried across country in home-made cots of brown cotton hung on poles between two Hawaiian men who carried them on their shoulders and went at a jog trot, while crossing the Wailua River at the upper ford my sister Anna and I got ducked in the water, the tide was high and the cot not water proof but we were not hurt, only pretty well frightened.”[451]
On December 12, 1845, Gottfried F. Wundenberg married Ann Moorea Henry and they settled “in a small house on a little mound ‘makai’ [seaward] of the Kikiula house, and the wedding took place there.”[452]
“My mother came to Hanalei late in 1845 on a visit with her sister and brother in law the Joseph Smiths from Tahiti where she was born, she was the daughter of the Rev. Wm. Henry one of a band of English Missionaries who were sent out to Tahiti by the London Missionary Society in 1796, and met and married father on December 12, 1845 at Kikiula where Mr. Godphrey Rhodes lived and planted coffee. Their wedding took place under an orange tree in front of the house that the Joseph Smiths occupied, Mr. Rowell of Waimea, Kauai, performing the ceremony.”
Josephine Wundenberg King[453]
In October of 1845, Rhodes and Von Pfister formed a partnership with retired English Naval Officer Captain Henry Samuel Hunt. At this time about 750 acres in Hanalei Valley were controlled by Rhodes and Von Pfister, and an estimated 1,000 acres of Hanalei Valley were cultivated in coffee.
The coffee mill of the Rhodes & Co. Coffee Plantation was built on Hanalei Valley’s eastern slope, just above the current site of the Hanalei Bridge.[454] Together, the coffee plantation of Charles Titcomb and the neighboring plantation of Bernard and Rhodes had more than 100,000 coffee trees planted by 1846.[455]
Von Pfister left the Hawaiian Islands to participate in the California Gold Rush and was later murdered in San Francisco. Rhodes became the sole owner of the coffee enterprise after Von Pfister left. The plantation was hindered by the loss of labor to the California Gold Rush, and floods did extensive damage to the crop in 1847 when “two weeks of heavy rains cut streambeds through the fields. Earth, masses of rock, and uprooted trees were strewn thorugh the orchards.”[456]The following years also brought epidemics that killed many Hawaiians.[457]
In 1851 the coffee plantation suffered the severe effects of “an unprecedented drought in the valley of Laughing Water,”[458] yet a significant amount of coffee was produced. According to the statistics of the Agricultural Society, between July of 1850 and June of 1851, “Hanalei exported 21,298 pounds of coffee, 39 barrels of Irish potatoes, and 20 head of cattle, at a total value of $27,744.08.”[459]
Godfrey Rhodes was vice president of the Royal Hawaiian Agricultural Society in 1851 when he stated in a report: “The coffee plantation of Mr. Titcomb is in excellent order, the trees healthy, and he expects a tolerably large crop from it. The plantation belonging to Mr. Hunt and myself and those of Messrs. Archer and Wundenberg, should, if in good order, yield at least seventy tons of coffee this year, but I am sorry to say that owing to the want of labor they are in a very bad state and the most we can expect from them is one third of that amount; and even this we shall not be able to collect if the Chinamen do not arrive, as the natives will not work.”[460]
Rhodes’ partner Henry Hunt, like Von Pfister, also left the Hawaiian Islands, “and was never heard from again. An old letter speaks of his taking his deeds and records...Rhodes appears to have fallen heir naturally to his partners’ shares in the business.”[461]
The importation of Chinese laborers and the end of the drought eventually helped to return the coffee fields of Hanalei to significant production. Unfortunately, a blight caused by the white hairy louse (a species of aphid), “affected the coffee trees on all the islands”[462] and soon ended commercial coffee production in Hanalei.
Gottfried and Ann Wundenberg lived at Kuna on the east side of Hanalei Valley until 1847, when they built a new home at Limunui, “in the valley just below Kikiula and across the river.”[463] The region of Hanalei Valley known as Limunui was located just below the cliffs called Kuakea and Ka‘ūpūlehu. The banks of the river in this area, according to Elsie Wilcox, were “lined with weeping-willow trees.”[464]
Gottfried Wundenberg went to California in November of 1848 along with H.A. Wiedemann and Charles Titcomb, all three men seeking riches in the Gold Rush. While Wundenberg was in California, his family stayed with the Dudoits at Lanihuli in the house built by Captain Kellett on a hill overlooking the mouth of the Hanalei River.
Wundenberg’s business operations were run by Archibald Archer, who was “half-Scotch, half Norwegian, and an engineer by profession,” according to Elsie Wilcox.[465] Archer was also put in charge of the coffee milling.[466]
Elsie Wilcox also wrote: “He [Archibald Archer] left the Islands for Australia in 1859, became prosperous sheep-raiser and member of Parliament, and made one visit later in life in the Islands, staying with his old friend Mr. Wiedemann In Honolulu.” [467]
Josephine Wundenberg King recalled Archibald Archer’s friendship with her father, Gottfried Frederick Wundenberg: “Mr. Archibald Archer was staying with us at the time, he was a Pokii resident, although he had lived in Hanalei with father at one time previously, he was a part Scotch and part Norwegian gentleman, and engineer by profession and often came to help father with the machinery of the coffee mill. A room in our house [Kikiula] was called Mr. Archer’s room, and was kept in readiness for him at all times. He was a great reader, had many books, and always gave us children books for Christmas and birthday presents. “He went to join a brother of his in Queensland Australia in 1859 and became a sheep-grazer there, also a member of Parliament in Brisbane later in life. He visited Mr. Widdemann inHonolulu about twenty-five years ago and has since died at an advanced age.” [p. 7, King, Josephine Wundenberg,Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917.]
The Wundenbergs returned to Hanalei in September of 1849, and in 1851 Gottfried Wundenberg began to grow tobacco in the area on the east side of Hanalei Valley known as Kuna. Another tobacco enterprise in Hanalei at this time was run by two men named Bucholz and Gruben.
Gottfried Wundenberg also planted tobacco at Limunui with Archibald Archer on the banks of the Hanalei River. Prospects appeared favorable for about two years, and by 1852 “the Hanalei planters were ready to manufacture 200,000 of the best Hawaiian cigars.”[468] A cutworm then devastated the tobacco crop, dashing hopes for a tobacco industry in Hanalei Valley. Wundenberg moved to Honolulu in 1853, and then returned in 1855 to manage the Princeville Plantation for R. C. Wyllie.
“Two good sized rivers irrigate the valley and at the extreme makai (seaward) end the mission buildings are just visible amidst the surrounding trees. Immediately beneath me on an eminence commanding the finest obtainable prospect of the two divisions of the valley, a good sized house covered with red tiles stands, surrounded by a garden well stocked with fruit trees and flowers...Passing through a gateway, I follow a zigzag path cut in the hillside and after a long descent reach the plateau on which the house stands. This house belongs to Mr. Wyllie, proprietor of the Hanalei plantation, and is occupied by his manager, Mr. Wundenberg, his wife and 7 children...”
Theophilus H. Davies recalling his 1860 visit to Hanalei[469]
Robert Crichton Wyllie
Robert Crichton Wyllie first arrived in the Hawaiian Islands in 1844. A tall, thin Scotsman, Wyllie had abandoned medical studies in Glasgow to make a small fortune as a merchant in Mexico and South America, and was to create the huge Princeville Plantation near Hanalei with a friend who had been designated the British consul general in Hawai‘i.
On March 14, 1853, Scotsman Robert Crichton Wyllie (1798-1865), the Minister of Foreign Affairs for theHawaiian Kingdom, paid $1,300 for the Government (Crown) lands leased to the Rhodes & Co. Coffee Plantation.
Wyllie was born in Ayrshire, Scotland. He abandoned his medical studies at Glasgow University at the age of 20, leaving Scotland to be a surgeon aboard British ships. After practicing medicine in Chile, Wyllie was a merchant inLondon and made a large profit in Mexico and South America.
Wyllie’s adventures included sailing to India in a small yacht. In 1830, Wyllie returned to Great Britain “with a small fortune in the bank.”[470]
Living in London, Wyllie “joined a counting house, and became a London clubgoer.” After more than a decade of Victorian life, “Wyllie traveled to Mexico, and in Mazatlan met General William Miller, a friend from his days in Chile, designated the British consul general in Hawai‘i.”[471]
Wyllie was Hawai‘i’s British proconsul before serving as Hawai‘i’s Minister of Foreign Affairs for 20 years, from 1845 until his death in 1865. This service spanned the reigns of three different kings: Kamehameha III, IV, and V. Wyllie was particularly concerned with having high officials in the kingdom follow proper etiquette, and “was held by a sense of chivalry that was centuries out of date if, indeed, it had ever existed at all.”[472]
Among his many political accomplishments in the Hawaiian Islands, Wyllie worked to have other countries recognize Hawai‘i as an independent nation.[473] Wyllie also attended many of the functions put on by the Hawaiian royalty, and “their palace was the scene of brilliant receptions and balls, where the tall, red-haired Scot held court dressed in the high style of Beau Brummel.”[474]
Of Hanalei, Wyllie wrote, “I never saw such a romantically beautiful spot in all my life time. Were I forty years younger...I would throw the Foreign Office with all its musty papers into the King’s hands and spend the remainder of my life here.”[475]
“We left Hanalei sometime in 1853 and went to Honolulu to live but returned again in two years time. Mr. Wyllie having bought the coffee interests there and given father [Gottfried Wundenberg] the management of the place. We went down on the little sloop Sally with Captain Fountain. There were only two bunks in the tiny cabin so we youngsters had to lay on a mattress on the floor. My sister Mary was born in town and was a baby a year old only at this time, fortunately the trip was not longer than twelve hours. The Sally was a fine little sailer, but we were glad to get on shore and went up to Mr. Kellet’s [Kellett’s] house at Lanehule [Lanihuli] to stay until Mr. Rhodes was ready to give my father possession of the mangers house.”
Josephine Wundenberg King[476]
[Photograph: Kikiula—Princeville Plantation House]
On September 13, 1855, Robert Crichton Wyllie bought Godfrey Rhodes’ business interest in his Hanalei Valley plantation for $8,000.[477] Wyllie soon purchased more of the surrounding acreage, and eventually expanded his estate to include a great deal of land to the east and above Hanalei Valley. Gottfried Frederick Wundenberg arrived in Hanalei to manage Wyllie’s plantation. The Wundenberg family stayed at the Kellett house at Lanihuli before moving into Kikiula after the Rhodes family moved out.
Gottfried Wundenberg made significant improvements to the stone house, including adding a wooden clap board structure, as well as a top story covered with lath and plaster. His daughter recalled that Kikiula, “was painted white and the roof red, as were all the buildings that were shingled on the place. The red material was a clay found in the hills near by, which wore well when mixed with a little lime to make it stick.”[478]
Bamboo troughs were used to channel a nearby spring to the house. A tin-lined box above the bathroom was filled with buckets of water and served as a shower.
[Photograph: Kikiula]
“Mr. Abner Wilcox had loaned father a cow for his benefit and one of my vivid recollections was seeing her tied up and milked. She was a young black cow and was very wild and hard to manage. Mother said that she was glad if she got a quart of milk a day, or the bucket was not kicked over, and the baby had to be fed on pia made with water only, mother made the pia herself from the arrow root gathered in the hills across the river. She used an old Tahitian ‘Umete’ to prepare it in, one that she had brought from Tahiti.”
Josephine Wundenberg King[479]
Finding workers for Wyllie’s plantation was an ongoing process for Gottfried Wundenberg. In the early 1850s some Chinese workers were hired, but Wundenberg preferred to hire Hawaiians because they were more readily available. “Many of them lived on the estate,” recalled Josephine, “and their wages were twenty-five cents a day. Our house women were paid three dollars a month...They got their fish from the river and the taro grew on the plantation.”[480]
For mechanical and general utility work, Wundenberg hired Charley Griffiths “...an old sea faring man” who “did everything on the place that a mechanic was needed for,” and “lived in a little two roomed cottage on the knoll over the river where the path passes on its way to the sugar mill...it was one of our delights to visit the old man in his den and have him tell us wonderful tales of his sea life.”[481] Charley Griffiths came to the Hawaiian Islands with Thomas Brown and his wife (Godfrey Rhodes’ sister), who lived at Wailua until 1854.
“Old Charlie Griffiths gave us a colored picture of the Virgin Mary in a frame that he had made,” recalled Josephine, “we hung it in our school room and shocked the Johnson girls by having a Catholic picture in our house...In 1857, Lizzie Johnson came to stay a few months with us to teach the young ideas, and give us some book learning, none of us had ever been to school.”[482]
King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani) and Queen Emma visited Hanalei in 1860 with their son, Prince Albert[483] who was born on May 20, 1858, and was a godchild of England’s Queen Victoria. During the Hawaiian royal family’s 1860 visit to Hanalei they stayed with Gottfried Wundenberg and his family at Kikiula.
Wundenberg’s daughter recalled that the royal guests “were both charming people and the little Prince a dear little boy of two years. Madam Namekaha was his nurse. She afterwards married Kalakaua and became Queen Kapiolani in 1875. She was a lovely sweet woman and we became great friends.”[484]
As Minister of Foreign Affairs, R. C. Wyllie was involved in the governmental affairs of the Kingdom and was fond of entertaining guests at his Hanalei estate. Wyllie even brought a musician to entertain his royal visitors and provide music for dancing, which was a favorite activity of King Kamehameha IV and Queen Emma, who “were delighted with a pretty tyrolese waltz taught to them by Wyllie.”[485]
“She ate her meals with the little Prince at the children’s table, and was with us a great deal. She helped me to make a little Hawaiian flag out of white and blue cotton cloth and turkey-red which I flew on my own flag staff and at the stern of our boat when we went rowing. I used to play tricks on her too, such as putting sand in her private bowl of pink poi and hiding her shoes up in a tree, where she could not get them until I was ready to give them to her, thereby gaining the name of ‘Keike Mahine Kolohe’ [Mischievous Child] which title she was pleased to remember after she became Queen of Hawaii and tease me with.”
Josephine Wundenberg King[486]
Both the King and the Queen were quite social with their hosts, and seemed to enjoy their stay in Hanalei. “Queen Emma went up stairs nearly every evening to have a romp with us girls when we were going to bed,” recalled Josephine, “and loved a pillow fight as well as any of us. The King was a very entertaining man and loved to dress in disguises for the amusement of us children, he dressed up as a ghost once and gave himself quite a shock when he peered into a looking glass, in a partly darkened room.”[487]
King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani) was also an avid hunter, and traveled east to the valley of ‘Anini to catch kōlea (plover) birds as well as the non-native quail. The royal party brought their own rowboats as well as boat crews, and during their six week stay they spent numerous afternoons boating up the Hanalei River and enjoying picnics on the river’s banks.
In the summer of 1860, to honor the young Prince Albert, Wyllie changed the name of his estate to the Princeville Plantation and made the young Prince Albert the intended heir. Wyllie planned to petition the government of the Kingdom for his estate to be officially designated Barony de Princeville, and “suggested the heir bear the title, Baron de Princeville.”[488] This never came to be, however, due to the untimely death of Prince Albert in 1862 at the tender age of four. Not long after this tragic loss, the prince’s father, King Kamehameha IV, passed away in 1863 at the age of 29.
Another visitor to the Hanalei region in 1860 was Theophilus Harris Davies[489] who first came to the Islands at age 23 from Britain and later became a prominent Honolulu businessman and founder of the “Big Five” firm of Theo H. Davies & Co. Davies later served as the guardian of Princess Ka‘iulani when she went to England to attend boarding school, and accompanied the princess to Washington D.C. after the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy so she could request assistance from President Grover Cleveland in restoring Queen Lili‘uokalani to the throne.
During his Hanalei visit, Davies was invited to accompany the royal party to the north shore area of Hā‘ena to explore the large caves there and watch the traditional “fireworks” ceremony known as ‘ōahi (fire throwing), which involved throwing burning logs of the native hau or pāpala into the seaward winds blowing off the cliffs of Makana.[490]Crowds of people arrived in canoes from as far away as Ni‘ihau, and they took great delight in watching the lighted wood soar through the air and fall into the sea.
Carried by the strong winds, the firebrands soared out over the water and “swirled out with bursts of flame and plunged hissing into the sea far below, where at a safe distance the chiefs and people had paddled their canoes out to see the spectacle.”[491] People in canoes beneath the cliffs were considered heroic if they were able to catch the burning embers, and would sometimes tattoo themselves with the fiery logs to commemorate the event.
The Hawaiian term pāpala refers to five endemic Hawaiian species in the genus Charpentiera. Pāpala reaches a height of up to 39 feet, with leaves that are oblong to elliptical in shape and are up to 16 inches long. The wood of pāpala is light, and when dried the logs burn easily, particularly the pithy centers of the logs. These qualities made pāpala the preferred type of wood to be lit on fire and thrown off the cliffs.
Pulelo ke ahi ha‘aheo i na pali
The firebrand soars proudly over the cliffs.
An expression of triumph. Referring to the firebrand hurling of Kaua‘i,
or to the glow of volcanic fire on Hawai‘i.[492]
[Illustration: Fire-throwing ceremony]
Davies recalled: “Hearing that the Queen was spending the day at Mr. Titcombe’s,” recalled Davies, “Mr. and Mrs. Johnson determined to call on her that afternoon and invited us to accompany them...The Queen asked us what stay we purposed making at Hanalei, and I said we intended going next day to the caves of Haula and back...Her majesty replied that her party were going to the caves the next day...to remain there all night and to have fireworks from the rocks.”[493]
Davies joined them the next day for the trip when the “Royal Cavalcade” arrived and he “rode with the Queen most of the way,” adding that “various traditions and legends of places we passed were narrated to me by the Queen.”[494]Other members of the royal party traveled to the event by boat, and a reception met the group at their destination.[495]
“Mats were laid on the sand and there we sat, hosts of natives grouped near us—the perpetual pulsation of the ocean in its vesper of praise at our feet—the strange falling flakes of fire afar off in the high air—and over all the clear white light of the moon...whilst our voices blended musically in various part songs. The two young ladies sang soprano, Queen Emma alto, the chronicler tenor, and Henry Dimond bass—and though more than a year has gone, I can almost see the group of white people with our young island Queen in the centre, and hear her sweet melodious notes Oft in the Stilly Night...when I saw her next morning sitting on the verandah with her little boy kneeling in her lap, and clasping his hands, whilst she dictated his morning prayer, I thought few sights more beautiful or more holy...”
Theophilus H. Davies, 1862[496]
In honor of the visit by the royal family in 1860, Wyllie rechristened his schooner Prince of Hawaii and the vessel “plied for many years between Hanalei and Honolulu. The Hawaiian coat-of-arms was painted on her stern, and again in more elaborate colors and with carving on the side of the cabin.”[497]
The Prince of Hawaii “was brought down from the Coast under command of Captain Hatfield,” wrote Elsie Wilcox, “who continued to run her here.”[498] Captain Hatfield later married Captain Kellett’s daughter, Becky Kellett, and with her had two daughters, Mrs. Makee and Mrs. Birkmyer, who both lived in Hanalei.
Another visitor to the Wundenbergs in 1860 was Reverend and Mrs. S. C. Damon from Honolulu, and their children. Reverend Damon baptized the two youngest Wundenberg girls, Gussie and Lina.[499]
Wyllie rented half of the Kellett house as a summer residence where he dispensed hospitality “in true English style, and when unable to come himself, sent visitors alone to occupy the house.”[500] Wyllie’s cook, Koka, was in charge of the entertainment.
Initially, the Caucasian families of the Hanalei region were on good terms. “Very pleasant visits were exchanged by Lucy [Wilcox] and her children with other Hanalei families,” wrote Ethel Damon. “Besides close neighbor Johnsons there were the Rhodes family at the river, the Dudoits on the dairy farm above, and the Wundenbergs, at first on a coffee ranch up the Hanalei river.”[501]
[Photograph: Mountains of Hanalei]
“In the centre a cluster of these peaks forms a basin some thousands of feet high into which perpetual cascades pour from the cliffs around. After a rainstorm almost scores of these waterfalls may be seen glittering against their green slopes...The soft green of the coffee fields and the weird blades of the sugar cane leaf seemed unnaturally stilled in the ghostly light...”
Theo H. Davies, describing the 1860 view from the veranda of the Princeville Plantation House[502]
Eventually some local animosities developed, as noted by Theo H. Davies in 1862: “I must premise this by saying that of the four white households that hold sway in this lovely district of creation, no two are on friendly terms. From the slumbering sarcastic feuds that obtain in most small places, to the high and mighty eruptions that distract the world’s great powers, we may discover their prototypes in this happy valley. Hence my visit to the mission families was made alone. Any attempt to enter into the various causes of feuds and their sometimes amusing exhibitions would overstep my resolution.”[503]
During Lady Sophia Craycroft’s 1861 visit to Princeville as the guest of R. C. Wyllie, she wrote in her journal that they attended church at Wai‘oli “by boat and on horseback, and were the innocent cause of renewed strife between high contending parties, the Missionary and wife and the Schoolmaster and wife, whose contentions are fierce and of old standing. It would really have been entertaining—if it had not been rather shocking—to witness the struggle carried on between the two ladies in the church, the instant after the service was over, as to which of two persons (who did not speak to each other if it could be avoided) should succeed in getting my Aunt first to her house. Mr. Wyllie effected a compromise, and we visited both for ten minutes. Here of course is a sad subject of scandal among the natives.”[504]
“Near the shore of the bay is the village, with its church, school, and mission houses—farther on, a sugar plantation and mill for preparing the sugar-fine grass and trees of many kinds, including oranges—then the whitewashed, red-roofed buildings on Mr. Wyllie’s Estate—and at two miles from the mouth of the stream stands the little flat promontory jutting out from the pali at about half its elevation, on which stands the house and garden of Princeville. We landed under the sweeping shade of weeping willows (descended from those of Longwood) and had a rather toilsome walk up to the house, white and red-roofed like the rest, where we were welcomed by Mrs. Wundenberg and her well-behaved handsome family (all girls save one) between the ages of fourteen and four.”
Miss Sophia Craycroft, 1861[505]
In 1861, Robert C. Wyllie brought two guests—Lady Jane Franklin and Miss Sophia Craycroft—to visit his Princeville estate. Lady Jane Franklin was the widow of renowned explorer Sir John Franklin, and her niece was Miss Sophia Craycroft.
When she came to Hanalei, Lady Franklin was researching a book about the Franklin expedition to the North Pole. She had sailed to California and stopped in Honolulu on her way first to China and then back home to England.
The 69-year-old, gray-haired Lady Franklin had just sailed to Alaska searching for information about her husband, who had been lost in the Arctic more than a decade earlier during his fourth expedition there.
Throughout the 1850s several ships had been sent to find out what happened to John Franklin. Then in 1859 some records and remnants of his expedition were finally found and it was discovered that he had died about twelve years earlier.
Wyllie and his two guests sailed into Hanalei Bay on May 30, 1861 after first visiting O‘ahu and then the volcanoes of Hawai‘i Island. At Hanalei, Princeville Plantation manager Gottfried Wundenberg paddled a long boat out to meet Wyllie and his guests, “and beat back in through a running surf to the delight of his British passengers. The burly German rowed the trio upstream to a landing shaded by weeping willow trees below Kellett’s hillside house.”[506] The guests were greeted at Kikiula, Wundenberg’s home, by his son and six daughters, whose ages ranged from six to fourteen.
Lady Franklin was an “aristocratic lady, set firm in the belief that English aristocracy and manners were superior to all others. She was intelligent, energetic, adventurous, and most willing to prejudice the Hawaiian monarchy in favor of England. Lady Franklin awakened dreams in Wyllie’s heart.”[507] Wyllie apparently intended to make Lady Franklin Hawai‘i’s first baroness, establishing ties to the monarchies of Europe.[508]
While staying with the Wundenbergs at Kikiula, Lady Franklin wrote: “I am unfortunate at Princeville in a social point of view, since Mr. Wundenberg I can with difficulty understand on account of his insufferable German accent, the worst I ever heard; and with Mrs. W. I do not succeed much better.”[509]
In a sad connection to her past loss, Lady Franklin visited a mound of earth near Kikiula where one of the men who had been searching for her husband was buried. The burial spot was “marked with an iron tablet, Sacred to the memory of WM. LUXFORD, Late Quartermaster of H.B.M. Ship Enterprise.”[510] The ship had been to the Arctic searching for John Franklin in 1850 and was wintering in Hanalei when the Quartermaster died and was buried near Kikiula.
“We passed here twelve delightful days of unbroken repose, free from bustle, interruption, and fatigue—pray don’t imagine that this means in indolence; the very reverse is the fact—we read, wrote, drew, sewed, while drinking in the perfume of the flowers such as are cherished in conservatories at home, revelling in beauty which could never satiate, because ever changing.”
Miss Sophia Craycroft, 1861[511]
Lady Franklin encouraged education and a proper upbringing for the children of the Wundenberg household. Josephine Wundenberg King recalled how Lady Franklin “had much to do with making mother [Mrs. Ann Wundenberg] dissatisfied with her life at Hanalei, and told her that she did wrong to bring her family up in such a lonely ‘out of the world’ sort of place, and urged her to let her have my sister Lina to take to England to educate.”[512]
Lady Franklin was known to have some eccentricities, including insisting on sleeping in her own bed, “which she took about with her, a sort of a cot, and used in spite of the trouble it often made to find room for it.”[513]
Lady Franklin also took long walks with the Wundenberg children. Josephine noted that Lady Franklin, “let her skirts get full of ‘kukus’ which we had to pick out for her while she told us stories of the Norman Kings.”[514]
Wyllie was impressed by his sophisticated guests, writing: “Of all the ladies that I have ever met with, they are just the ladies that suit me. They are of high mettle and breeding—not Prudes, humdrum and Pernickatenackate.”[515]
[Photograph: Kikiula]
Lady Jane Franklin loved to hike each day to the top of the hill behind Kikiula and enjoy the expansive view of the mountains and sea, which perhaps made her think of her husband who disappeared during his ocean journey. “There she would remain for hours...lost in contemplation of the glorious scene spread out before her, with thoughts wandering often no-doubt to distant icy seas, and scanning mayhap the horizon again and again with eager eyes for the white sail she knew could never come.”[516]
Lady Franklin’s daily hike to the top of the hill near Kikiula was likely one of the reasons Wyllie decided to give her that piece of land overlooking the bay, called Crow’s Nest, where she had previously proposed that a high-church Episcopal chapel be built to complement Wyllie’s estate. Wyllie also apparently believed that Lady Franklin would someday build a castle there.
About the Crow’s Nest land, Elsie Wilcox wrote: “ For many years a wooden sign about three feet long marked the place. Upon Lady Franklin’s death about 1873, her residuary legatee wrote to Bishop Willis of the Anglican Church inHonolulu that she would donate ‘Crow’s Nest’ to the church as the site for a chapel.” [p. 279, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.]
Bishop Willis responded that the site was not suitable for a church location as it would be too inconvenient for parishioners to climb the hill to attend services. The Bishop’s request for an exchange for land at a better location was approved, but then it was discovered that Lady Franklin actually had no claim to the land since no conveyance had ever been documented, and so the site remained a part of the Princeville Plantation.
Apparently the name “Crow’s Nest” was later “applied to the Transit of Venus Station at Pooku, as being an easier name for ‘malihinis’ to master. The real ‘Crow’s Nest’ is, however, some distance makai [seaward] of Pooku, and should not be confused with it.” [PP. 280-281, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.]
After Lady Franklin left, Wyllie wrote to her: “I must confess I felt very lonely after you were gone, and scarcely a night has passed since that I have not been dreaming about Princeville and our tour on Kauai.”[517]
Seeking to entice the two ladies back to Hanalei from their journeys in California, Wyllie added: “It appears that you and that romantic niece of yours have been roaming about in the interior, examining grizzly bears, big trees, deep mines, gulches and ravines, where I hope neither you nor she will find such a pleasing spot as the ‘Crow’s Nest,’ or as beautiful and healthful a valley as that which it overlooks.”[518]
Wyllie was clear in his intentions that Lady Franklin return to Hanalei, writing: “I begin to fortify myself in the belief that your occupancy of the Crow’s Nest will become more of a reality than of a romantic speculation.”[519] But alas, it was never to be, and Wyllie’s dreams remained unfulfilled.
“Mr. Wyllie’s sugar mill is expected here in Aug. or Sept. He says he will have a mill so large as to grind all the cane that can be raised in Waioli and Hanalei”
Abner Wilcox, June 19, 1862[520]
The Hanalei Sugar Mill
Robert Crichton Wyllie constructed the Hanalei Sugar Mill in 1861-1862, with $40,000 worth of machinery purchased from Glasgow, Scotland. The steam-powered mill was built on the east bank of the Hanalei River just down from the Hanalei Bridge, and at the time it was the most modern and productive sugar mill in the Hawaiian Islands. The mill’s chimney rose to 110 feet in height, and the mill’s rollers were able to express 600 gallons of cane juice in 20 minutes.
Gottfried Wundenberg oversaw the construction of the new sugar mill as well as the plantation’s transition from coffee to sugar.[521] The Hanalei Sugar Mill became the center of a small but busy factory village that included a post office, storage buildings, camphouses, and a butcher shop.[522]
Eleven scows (flat-bottom boats) were used to bring sugarcane from the Hanalei Valley fields down the Hanalei River to the mill. A conveyor belt then carried the cane into the mill to be processed. After the juice was extracted, conveyor belts transported the bagasse (leftover plant material) out of the mill.
“Often in the days gone by have we rowed our boat o‘er the still waters of that beautiful river,” recalled Anna S. Wundenberg Wright, “singing our songs as we passed by the old sugar mill which stood near its bank, and we could see the cane as the mill slowly ground it in its rollers.”[523]
[Photograph: Hanalei Sugar Mill]
Wyllie continued to expand his land holdings from 1860-1863, first purchasing the region above the eastern side of Hanalei valley as far as Kalihiwai, and then on April 17, 1862 purchasing the ahupua‘a (watershed valley) of Kalihikai from A. Keali‘iahonui, the son of Kaumuali‘i, the former ruler of Kaua‘i.[524]
Wyllie bought the ahupua‘a of Kalihiwai at public auction from J. W. Austin and Charles Kana‘ina on October 5, 1862.[525] Kana‘ina was the father of William Charles Lunalilo (later King Lunalilo) with Kekāuluohi (Miriam ‘Auhea). At the time of Wyllie’s purchase, the sugar mill was supervised by Mr. Heuck, a German who was also “a partner in a mercantile business in town with Mr. H. von Holt Sr..”[526]
In a personal letter to Lady Franklin, Wyllie mentioned his motivations for purchasing more land above his Hanalei Valley coffee plantation: “I intend, if I can procure it, acquiring the fine upland plains on the northern side touching the sea, so that your Ladyship may extend your carriage drives and enjoy your sea bathing without trespassing on the domain of our neighbours. Besides, I require the land for the pasture of the oxen, mules, and horses, that I must keep and for the firewood that I shall want of in [operating] my steam machinery.”[527]
“The valley was rich with verdure-coffee trees, sugar cane, meadowland (such grass!-a fine texture, long, thick, and soft as the thickest moss), taro of brilliant green, peach trees, oranges, bananas in such enormous profusion that the fruit cannot be consumed...”
Lady Sophia Craycroft, 1861[528]
Wyllie’s large land acquisitions continued in 1863 when he paid $29,000 to purchase about 750 acres of Charles Titcomb’s “Emmasville” property in Hanalei Valley, extending the Princeville Plantation estate from Kalihiwai to Pu‘u Pehu above Hanalei Valley to the east, on the “flat kula lands on the plateau,” to the “rich bottom land along the meandering Hanalei River.”[529]
Wyllie sent the queen a letter informing her of the designation of the land as “Emmasville.” Titcomb retained ownership of his coffee and sugar mills and other machinery. Wyllie took ownership of four separate land parcels, including “750 acres at Emmaville [Emmasville], 1 acre at the landing, Kanoa pond, 10 acres, and Kukia [Kikiula] on the opposite side of the river.”[530]
The Princeville lands also included Po‘okū Heiau, a Hawaiian sacred area, as well as the loko ‘ia (fishpond) known as Kamo‘omaika‘i, located near the mouth of the Hanalei River. A huge grove of the native hala, said to be the largest in the Hawaiian Islands, grew from the heiau area all the way to the current site of the Princeville Hotel terraced into the oceanfront hillside of Pu‘upōā Ridge.
Wyllie’s first crop of sugar was harvested in 1863. He moved to Honolulu in 1864,[531] and a few months later the management of Princeville Plantation was taken over by H. A. Wiedemann, a friend of Gottfried Wundenberg from their hometown of Hildesheim in Hanover. Wiedemann managed the Princeville Plantation until the spring of 1865 when John Low arrived.
Wyllie’s was not the only sugarcane plantation in the area. Other sugarcane ventures in the Hanalei region at this time included “Mr. Friedenberg, a Portuguese named Antone Brooks, the two Markall brothers, who, with Captain Hatfield planted cane across the river from the Titcomb place, and a man named Hansen, from whose early efforts Waipa Plantation developed, and possibly others. There was a cooper named Neumann and another named Bruns, for in those days sugar was shipped in casks and a cooper was a necessary hand on a plantation.” [P. 280, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.]
[Sidebar:]
Wyllie’s Broadside Distributed to Natives of Hanalei
“By apprenticing your sons to carpenters, masons, blacksmiths and coopers, they would in a few years become carpenters, masons, blacksmiths and coopers themselves, and earn much higher wages than 25 cents a day. You know that such mechanics are paid much higher than mere field laborers, porters, boatmen and cart drivers. Why should some of your sons not learn these arts, and by their industry, get as high wages as the foreigners, who now are, with few exceptions, the only men who practice them? If your sons, after learning these arts, work for me as well, and as many hours every day, and as many days in the month as the foreigners, I shall not only pay your sons the same wages as to the foreigners, but prefer your sons to them.”
Robert Crichton Wyllie, 1860s[532]
[End Sidebar]
Robert Crichton Wyllie passed away at his Rosebank estate on O‘ahu on October 19, 1865, just two years after he had consolidated the plantation at Princeville. He was buried at Honolulu’s Royal Mausoleum at Mauna‘ala.
Wyllie’s principal heir was his nephew, Robert Crichton Cockrane, who had come to Kaua‘i just three months earlier from Waltham, Illinois to learn the sugarcane business. As a condition of taking over the Princeville estate, Cockrane was asked to change his name to Wyllie, which he agreed to do.
But Cockrane—or Wyllie, as he was now known—had inherited a plantation plagued with ills, including labor shortages, costs associated with irrigation and milling equipment, fires, droughts, vandalism, and damage caused by an agricultural pest called the cane borer. The plantation was in grave financial condition.
In addition to Princeville’s other problems, labor troubles occurred in November of 1865 between two groups of workers from two different China provinces. The feuding workers included 30 men in one of the groups and 80 in the other, and they were apparently continuing a quarrel that had existed between them in China before they came to the Islands. Plantation manager John Low moved workers from one of the provinces across the Hanalei River after fighting among the workers led to a man’s death.
For the next several years there continued to be a general fear of an uprising among the Chinese laborers at Princeville Plantation. Due to these problems Low placed rows of bayonets in the hallway at Kikiula, and they “presented a very warlike appearance indeed, but were never used, although Mr. Conradt also had trouble with his Chinese labor.”[533]
[Photograph: Hanalei Valley]
[Photo Caption:]
The beauty of [Hanalei] valley was exotic, subtly blended, at once lush and serene.”
Alfons L. Korn, 1866[534]
The plantation’s financial problems would soon lead to more misfortune. In early 1866, R. C. Wyllie (the former R. C. Cockrane) was engaged to be married to Ida Von Pfister (daughter of John Von Pfister), and he was in Hanalei preparing to welcome his bride-to-be. On February 4, 1866, just eight days before the marriage was to take place, several men gathered to listen to a musical performance at the Princeville Plantation House, the home of plantation manager John Low.
Wyllie went to get a jug of water to help Low make some limeade, and Low went to pick some limes. When Wyllie didn’t return for some time, Low became concerned. “Where’s Wyllie,” said Low, “we must find him. He’s been off his head for some weeks.”[535] Low went to look for Wyllie and discovered him in the outside privy where he had cut his own throat with a razor and was bleeding profusely from the large gash. The bloody Wyllie fell into Low’s arms.
“Dr. Smith, the nearest physician, was summoned from Koloa, and made a record-breaking ride with relays of horses, covering the forty-five miles in three hours,” recounted Elsie Wilcox. [536] “An attempt was made to sew up the wound, which Abner Wilcox estimated “was big enough to insert four fingers and a thumb.”[537]
For the next several days, Wyllie slipped in and out of consciousness. With assistance, the young Wyllie “prepared a will, giving Princeville, in equal shares, to his mother and his fiance, Ida von Pfister, of Honolulu. Dated Princeville February 4, 1866, the bloodstained document carries a wavering signature...”[538]
Wyllie struggled to stay alive, writing “I will live” on a piece of paper, and requesting that Wai‘oli Church pastor Reverend Johnson be summoned. Doctors also arrived from Honolulu. He survived for several days before dying on Wednesday evening, February 7, 1866. Wyllie, the former R. C. Cockrane, was buried in the Wai‘oli Church cemetery where an iron fence surrounds the unmarked grave.
The financial difficulties of the Princeville estate were said to have been a major cause of Cockrane’s despair. Apparently the depression had first set in after he examined the plantation’s books.
The sale of Princeville Plantation for about $40,000 took place on September 19, 1867. Since the first R. C. Wyllie had invested about $200,000 in the property, the sale of the estate was a large loss to his heirs. Just the steam-powered machinery at the sugar mill alone had cost $40,000 when it was imported from Glasgow, Scotland.
“After reading the schedule of the property, the leases and contracts involved in the sale, it was stated that the two mortgages on it with interest amounted to $38,150.00 and that the property would be offered over and above that amount. The bidding was commenced at $50.00 and rose rapidly to $1900.00, at which figure it was knocked down to Mr. E.P. Adams, the real purchaser being his Honor E. H. Allen. The plantation therefore realized $40,050.00, with the prospect of a crop of 500 tons of sugar to come off during the next ten months.”
The Advertiser, September 23rd, 1867 edition.[539]
The management of Princeville Plantation changed hands several times before retired American naval officer Captain John Ross took over the position on July 9, 1872. More changes in shares of ownership took place during the following years.
John Ross purchased a one-eighth interest in the Plantation from Judge E. H. Allen, the plantation’s new owner,[540] who then sold one-quarter interest in the plantation to the company of Walker & Allen (John S. Walker and Samuel C. Allen). This one-fourth share was subsequently sold to E. P. Adams and then to Andrew Welsh. Three other sugarcane mills on Kaua‘i at this time were located at Kōloa, Līhu‘e, and Kīlauea. [541]
In his 1875 Hawaiian Guide Book for Travelers, Whitney described the Princeville plateau: “Between this valley [Kalihiwai] and Hanalei, the rolling upland is covered with a lauhala forest, reaching to the old silk works of Mr. Titcomb, which were located near the river. Some of these upland tracts, where water can be brought on to them from the neighboring streams, furnish the best of cane land, and will eventually be cultivated with sugar cane or tobacco.”[542]
Whitney also described the well-landscaped grounds of Kikiula, the Princeville Plantation House, noting that “its gardens contain the olive, pomegranate, orange and grape, and among roses and shrubbery, the magnificent magnolia grandiflora scatters the exquisite fragrance of its snowy blossoms.”[543]
“The crystal Hanalei flows placidly to the sea for the last three or four miles, tired by its impetuous rush from the mountains, and mirrors on its breast hundreds of acres of cane, growing on a plantation formerly belonging to Mr. Wyllie, an enterprising Ayrshire man, and one of the ablest and most disinterested foreigners who ever administered Hawaiian affairs.”
Isabella Bird Bishop, 1873[544]
On October 6, 1875, the Princeville Plantation was incorporated. At the time ownership of the plantation was divided among several parties, including E. H. Allen (5/8); Andrew Welsh (1/4); and John Ross (1/80).[545]
In the first years of the 1870s, the 1000-ton capacity sugar mill was processing a crop that averaged about 400 tons annually.[546]
Captain Ross managed the Princeville Plantation until 1876, when he went into partnership with E. P. Adams to plant sugarcane in Kīlauea after purchasing the interests of Charles Titcomb. Taking over the management of the Princeville Plantation was Mr. August W. Conradt, who had previously worked at Kōloa and had also managed the cotton-growing enterprise of Hoffschlaeger & Co. at Keālia.
Conradt became one-sixteenth owner of Princeville Plantation, as did Charles Koelling, who ran the mill. August W. Conradt died about one year later, and the management of the Princeville Plantation was taken over by Charles Koelling, with Brewer & Co. becoming the agents.
By 1877 the Princeville Plantation had 700 head of sheep to provide manure for the sugarcane fields after the crop was harvested. Within two years the sheep began dying off, and the ranch manager attempted to sell them.
[Photograph: Hanalei Valley]
[Photo Caption:]
“Hanalei has been likened by some to Paradise...every one who sees it raves about it. [Hanalei] has every element of beauty, and in the bright sunshine, with the dark shadows on the mountains, the waterfalls streaking their wooded sides, the river rushing under the kukuis and ohias, and then lingering lovingly amidst lively greenery.”
Isabella Bird, 1875[547]
Princeville Plantation’s sugarcane enterprise employed about 200 laborers by 1880. About 100 acres of sugarcane were cultivated on the upper slopes and about 200 acres of sugarcane grew in Hanalei Valley. The growing ranch also had 900 breeding stock, 400 head working stock, and at least 150 steers.[548]
The Hanalei Sugar Mill Company was organized by Charles Koelling who “leased the place from them [Brewer & Co.] for eleven years at $3,000.00 per year, organized a stock company...and put in the Diffusion System.”[549]
The late 1800s, under the management of Charles Koelling, were years of struggle for Princeville. The sugarcane did not grow well in Hanalei’s extremely wet and relatively cool climate, and the Diffusion System was a costly enterprise. Much of the sugarcane “rotted in the lower fields, the upper fields were, it is said, not plowed deeply enough,” wrote Elsie Wilcox, “and at times there was not water enough to flume the cane down to the mill.”[550]
Further problems arose when a bovine anthrax outbreak infected Princeville’s cattle in 1890, and the herd had to be destroyed.[551] The sugar mill’s continual failure to make a profit led to the imminent demise of efforts to grow and mill sugarcane in the Hanalei region. After the last crop was planted in 1892, Koelling ended sugar production at Princeville Plantation.
When Koelling left, the ratoon crop was sold by Brewer & Company “to a Chinaman, Wong Fun, who took off the last crop, 497 tons, in 1893.”
Elsie Wilcox noted that “Mr. Riedel, who had been the engineer for many years stayed until the end, as did also Mr. Radway, the book-keeper, who remained in charge for some little time thereafter.”[552] The Hanalei Sugar Mill was shut down in 1894.
Princeville then changed hands again, this time to Albert Spencer Wilcox, who first bought an interest in the Princeville Plantation in 1892. By 1895 Wilcox controlled all but one-eighth ownership.
Mr. C. M. Willis assumed management responsibilities of Princeville Plantation in 1896. The upper plateau lands from Kalihiwai to Hanalei were planted with imported grasses and used for cattle ranching, and the lower lands in Hanalei Valley were rented to Chinese rice farmers.
By May of 1899, Wilcox had secured complete ownership of the Princeville estate, and continued the conversion of much of the land from sugar production to cattle ranch. In June of 1916, Wilcox sold his Princeville lands to the Līhu‘e Plantation, but maintained ownership of his Hanalei beach house as well as the Wai‘oli Mission House “and some kuleanas along the beach.”[553]
The Līhu‘e Plantation was particularly interested in obtaining rights to divert water from the Hanalei River. In 1915, J.M. Lydgate wrote a report to Princeville Plantation’s manager Walter Foss Sanborn regarding the diversion of water in the Hanalei River to the south side of the island “where it could be disposed of at lucrative rates.”[554]
A second outbreak of bovine anthrax occurred in 1917 at the Princeville Ranch, which initiated a program of serum and vaccine administration.[555] Silver oak trees were planted over the cattle burial sites from both the 1890 and 1917 outbreaks.
In 1919, the Hanalei Sugar Mill on the banks of the Hanalei River was demolished. The bricks from the 110-foot smokestack of the mill were sold to the Kīlauea Sugar Company.
“The Princeville plantation brick chimney, for years an outstanding landmark at Hanalei, is a thing of the past. It was demolished on Saturday last by means of dynamite administered at the base, which brought it down with a great crash, that was heard all over the Valley. The bricks are to be sold to Kilauea Sugar Company—there are about 90,000 of them, and they are a very superior, well made brick, imported ‘round the Horn’ in the early days when there were not bricks to be had nearer at hand.”
The Garden Island newspaper, September 23, 1919.[556]
[Photograph: Kikiula—Princeville Plantation House/Princeville Ranch House]
[Photo Caption:]
The house that was known as Kikiula when it was the residence of Godfrey Rhodes was later called Princeville Plantation House and then Princeville Ranch House.
Princeville Plantation House—Walter Foss Sanborn
Walter Foss Sanborn served as the manager of Princeville Ranch until 1927, first working for Albert Spencer Wilcox, and then for the new owner, the Līhu‘e Plantation. Sanborn came to Kaua‘i in 1901, serving as the U.S. District Commissioner for Kaua‘i and Federal Court Representative.
After becoming manager of the Princeville Ranch, Sanborn lived in the Princeville Ranch House with his wife, Lena Deverill Sanborn, who was raised on Kaua‘i. Lena’s father was Alfred Palmer Deverill who came to the Islands with his brother William as part of a contingent to present a christening gift to Prince Albert from his godmother, Queen Victoria.[557] Alfred Deverill married Emma Lindsey and gave birth to Lena and three other children that he later abandoned. Lena was adopted by William and Sarah Deverill, and grew up in Hanalei as part of their family.
Alfred Deverill married Emma Lindsey and they had four children in Waimea on the island of Hawai‘i, before Alfred abandoned his family and moved to Maui. On Maui, Alfred Deverill worked on the ranch of Captain Makee and married a Hawaiian. Lena’s mother Emma later remarried and had a daughter and son with George Thomas William K. Bell. [558]
Walter and Lena married in September of 1906, and the next year gave birth to their first child, Helen, and then three boys: Walter F. Jr., Percy, and John (Jack). Helen grew up in the Princeville Ranch House with her three brothers, and during this time the house served as the center of operations for the large Princeville cattle ranch. The Sanborn children “rode with the cowboys, drove cattle, and watched the roping and branding.”[559]
“The old dairy is now used as a fernery, and there have been minor changes, such as the rearranging of partitions, extending of verandas, etc., but the old original shell of the house [Kikiula] still remains. It commands a marvelous view of the valley and mountains. Captain Rhodes had a beautiful garden, with many rare trees...the garden-walks were all edged with pineapple plants, then rather rare in the Islands.”
Elsie Wilcox, 1917[560]
The Sanborn children delighted in going to movies shown in Hanalei at Wai‘oli Mission Hall (the old Wai‘oli Church). A Packard car parked outside the church building provided electricity to run the movie projector “which continually broke down or had to be stopped to rewind the old reel before going on with the next.”[561]
The Sanborn children were taught by Hawaiians how to fish for mullet on the Hanalei River at the first rapids at the kahe, “..a small homemade bamboo raft stacked with honohono grass on one side.”[562] The raft was “anchored in a narrow stretch...men had scooped out a pond nearby to hold the trapped fish.”[563] After the fish trap was ready, they all hiked about three miles upriver and begin to swim downstream to drive fish toward the bamboo trap. Note: The Hawaiian names for mullet (Mugil cephalus) range from ‘ama‘ama (finger-length) to ‘anae (30 cm or more).
A downstairs storeroom of the Princeville Ranch House held flour and other supplies that were sold to cowboys working on the ranch, and a nearby building housed the Princeville Ranch Office. The Ranch’s branding corral, blacksmith’s shop, and a home for the blacksmith were located near what is now the intersection of Kūhiō Highway and Ka Haku Road. Other ranch operations buildings were also located in this area, including milking pens and a stable with corrals.[564] Helen Sanborn Davis recalled “slaughter day,” when “the butcher passed through the village peddling meat in his beef car.”[565]
Homes for the cowboys, who were mostly Hawaiian, were built on both sides of the highway near the current site of the Princeville Shopping Center.[566] The ranch’s mules and horses were taken down to the shore at ‘Anini once a week. A wagon path lined with plum trees led from the Princeville plateau down to the shore.[567] (The path can still can be seen along Ka Haku Road.) Helen Sanborn Davis recalled that “on Saturday, the riding pace picked up, for that was when they galloped bareback along the beach, herding the horses and mules to ‘Anini Beach to bathe them.”[568]
During the 80 years that the Princeville Ranch House (Kikiula) was used as a dwelling, it was home to many different Princeville Plantation and Ranch managers, including the Wundenberg, Low, Conradt, Koelling, Willis, and Sanborn families. The Sanborns also had a house on the shoreline of Hanalei Bay, which they built in 1910 and referred to as the Mauka (Mountain) House.
Numerous additions were made to the Princeville Ranch House by its different owners. For example, Gottfried Wundenberg built a second story, Charles Koelling put an addition on the second story, and C. M. Willis removed the old kitchen and stone out-buildings.
At the turn of the century the Sanborns modernized the Princeville Ranch House and the grounds included stables, flower and vegetable gardens, fruit trees, and “outbuildings for Walter’s office, the servant’s quarters, a warehouse, chicken coops, pig-pens, and a building for small-animal supplies.”[569] In a separate building constructed of corrugated iron, “laundry was boiled in huge pots over a fire before being scrubbed by hand on wooden washboards in large cement tubs, then rinsed and hung out to dry.”[570]
The Princeville Ranch House eventually became dilapidated. Honeybees that enjoyed the flower gardens and fruit trees during the days nested in the home’s walls at night. Unable to eradicate the bees, Walter was said to have told his children “Sit still and they won’t sting.”[571]
As the bee infestation grew worse, the walls of the Ranch House dripped with honey, and finally the structure had to be abandoned.[572] The old home, which was originally known as Kikiula when it was built by Godfrey Rhodes in 1845, was torn down in the fall of 1918. The Sanborn family moved to their beach home in Hanalei.
[Photograph: Princeville Ranch House]
As the years passed, the Princeville Ranch saw changes in personnel and many new structures were built. Before his retirement in 1927, Walter Foss Sanborn served as the north shore’s tax assessor and collector. Sanborn also built and operated a poi mill in Hanalei.[573]
Fred Conant replaced Walter Foss Sanborn as the Princeville Ranch manager in 1927. Conant built a ranch office just to the east of the current entrance to Princeville “near the pink plumeria tree which was the inspiration for the Princeville Resort logo.”[574]
Princeville’s cattle were exported to Honolulu on freighters that arrived in Kalihiwai Bay and Hanalei Bay. A corral was built near the Hanalei Pier to hold the animals as they awaited being loaded onto the ships. Because the nearshore waters of Hanalei Bay are quite shallow, freighters had to anchor farther offshore in deeper waters. This required the cattle to be “roped, dragged into the water and swum out to whaling boats. Five cattle were tied by their horns to each side of a boat.”[575]
Up to five cattle were tied to each side of the long and narrow whaleboats. This made rowing difficult, so a cable was rigged and the cattle-laden whaleboat was pulled out to the freighter. Straps were then slung beneath the belly of each animal, and one by one the cattle were hoisted aboard the freighter.[576]
Fred Conant was instrumental in the creation of the Hanalei Valley Lookout. Also under Conant’s direction, a new home for the Princeville Ranch manager was built in Hanalei on Weke Road. The Princeville Ranch Manager’s House later became the home of Larry and Jeanie Ching (see Chapter 5). The lands of the Princeville Ranch continued to be used for cattle in the 1930s, and an area of the upper slopes was planted with pineapples.
“Hanalei is one of the most tropical districts on the island, because of the many mountain streams which traverse it. The view from the plateau is unsurpassed. The wide Hanalei valley, with its beautiful river of the same name, can scarcely be equated for loveliness. The mountains in the distance noted not so much for their height as for their peculiar formation, and their distinctive, broken, curved and jagged peaks, throw their weird shadows over a vale luxurious with forest growths.”
Whitney, 1890[577]
Hanalei’s First Catholic Chapel
Though a Protestant mission was established in the Hanalei region in 1834, Hanalei’s first Roman Catholic church was not established until 1864. The Catholic Chapel was built on the western bank of the Hanalei River near the rivermouth. Behind the Chapel was Hanalei’s first trading store, called Hubertson’s Store, run by an Englishman named Hubertson who arrived in the 1840s with a shipload of goods.
Hubertson’s Store was eventually closed after an auction sale of the products. Hubertson had a Chinese wife, and when he left the island he left behind “some minor children for whom Henry Rhodes, a brother of Godfrey Rhodes, was guardian.”[578] The old Hubertson’s Store building near the rivermouth was later used as a packing house for the large quantities of oranges grown in Wainiha, Lumaha‘i, and Hanalei.[579]
The Catholic Chapel was built on land purchased on October 10, 1849 by Frenchman John Brosseau, who secured a grant for the land from King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli). Brosseau died at Moloa‘a on January 21, 1850, and the land was bought by Henry Rhodes, who then willed it to his brother, sea captain Godfrey Rhodes. Godfrey and his wife Anna Louisa then deeded the Hanalei land to Father Maudet in 1860 for the Catholic chapel.
Hanalei’s first Catholic Chapel was blessed on the site near the Hanalei River on October 3, 1864. The chapel was dedicated to Saint Maxime, the Patron Saint of a friend of the Rhodes family, M. Desnoyers, who was the French consul at Honolulu and also a friend of the Rhodes. The Chapel and a Rectory, a small house for the priest, were built by Brother Arsene Bernat and blessed by Father Maudet.
[Photograph: Roman Catholic Chapel and Rectory]
[Photo Caption:]
Roman Catholic Chapel, Belfry, and Rectory
Built: 1864.
Location: West bank of Hanalei River, near rivermouth.
Wooden bell tower added around 1899.
Status: No longer standing.
A tall and slender wooden Church Belfry was built on the Hanalei Catholic Chapel site around 1900 by Father Sylvester, who had long served the Hanalei area. The Belfry was added because Father Matthias “declared that the rectory stood out rather more than the church itself.”[580]
“On the river bank,” wrote Ethel Damon, “stands a modest little wooden church attended by its high, slender belfry. This is the Roman Catholic chapel.”[581] Eventually the Catholic Chapel was outlasted by the Rectory, which was used to hold mass after the church was gone.
[Photograph: Catholic Chapel]
[Photo Caption:]
“The blessing of a chapel at Hanalei took place on October 3rd [1864]. Hanalei is the finest bay of the Sandwich Islands. There, near a river, on a charming site, on a piece of land given by a Catholic Englishman, our new little chapel has been erected.”
Church record, sent to the Holy Father in Rome, (originally written in French).[582]
Godfrey Rhodes’ wife Anna Louisa was a Catholic, and Rhodes himself, who “had a fluent command of French,” was converted to Catholicism, “on board the schooner which transported Catholic fathers, under edict of banishment, from the Hawaiian Islands in 1837.”[583]
In 1829, Protestant convert and kuhina nui (premier) Ka‘ahumanu ordered that practicing Catholics be punished and sent to the island of Kaho‘olawe, which became a penal colony. In 1831, Ka‘ahumanu expelled from the Island Catholic priests, including Reverends Bachelot and Short, and strongly discouraged believers in the Catholic religion.
Reverend Bachelot returned to the Islands in 1837. On December 18, 1837, with the urging of Protestant missionaries, King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) issued an ordinance rejecting the Catholic religion, leading to a controversy with France.
The British Royal Navy ship Sulphur arrived in Honolulu on July 8, 1837. The French naval vessel Venus also arrived, and there was controversy regarding Catholic priests in the Islands, resulting in a treaty assuring equal treatment for French residents.
On June 7, 1839, King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) issued a Declaration of Rights that came to be known as the Hawaiian Magna Carta. The document was a predecessor to Hawai‘i’s first formal constitution in 1840, and also served as the constitution’s preamble.
On June 17, King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) issued an Edict of Toleration regarding religious differences, reversing his earlier stance banning the practice and teaching of Catholicism. Catholic presence in the northern Kaua‘i region was initially most prominent to the east of Hanalei in the nearby community of Moloa‘a.
“Hanalei was never much of a Catholic mission center,” wrote Damon, “but at Moloaa, the meandering valley some twelve miles to the east of Hanalei, a school was conducted where the Hawaiian children were taught to spin while reciting their lessons.”[584] A 62-foot by 21-foot stone church named St. Stephen’s was completed in Moloa‘a by 1854.
The Stranded Crew of the U.S.S. Saginaw (1870)
Kaua‘i was often the first stop for ships returning from trips to the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands. On the evening of December 19, 1870 a small boat foundered in winter seas off Hanalei Bay. The tiny vessel carried five exhausted crew members of the U.S.S. Saginaw, which had become shipwrecked a thousand miles to the northwest on Kure Atoll with 93 people on board.
At 2:30 A.M. offshore of Hanalei Bay, the small boat was rolled by the rough ocean swell. Two of the crew members, Peter Francis and John Andrews, were swept away by waves and drowned. Lieutenant Talbot, drenched in his heavy clothing, briefly held onto the hull before he lost hold and perished.
By sunrise the tiny craft had drifted down the coast to Kalihiwai, where crew member and coxswain William Halford made it to shore. James Muir, the other surviving crew member, was pulled to shore by Halford. Muir was delirious and died on the beach.
The Saginaw had crashed into a reef at Kure a month earlier while doing a good deed. The Saginaw was not scheduled to pass Kure Atoll, but the ship’s captain decided to go about 60 miles out of his path to the atoll to see if anyone was stranded there. The captain misjudged the ocean current and the Saginaw ran aground on Kure’s eastern reef. Waves smashed the ship in two, and the 93-person crew crawled over the fallen main mast to Kure’s lagoon.
The stranded crew of the Saginaw eventually made their way to nearby Green Island, just a few acres of coral and sand near the edge of the reef. There the crew survived by eating seals and birds and drinking rainwater. The stranded men eventually decked-over the Saginaw’s 22-foot gig (a captain’s boat), and fitted and provisioned the small vessel to sail for help.
Five of the crew members left Kure on the small boat on November 18, 1870 in an attempt to reach the main Hawaiian Islands and get help. They first sailed north and east, and then caught the tradewinds south. The storm-tossed and weather-beaten crew lost their oars, and their provisions were ruined by ocean water. The captain of the tiny vessel, Lieutenant John G. Talbot, caught dysentery before finally arriving off Hanalei where the boat swamped in the rough seas.
On Kaua‘i, Halford conveyed his tragic story to Sheriff Samuel W. Wilcox, who assisted him in sailing to Honolulu where he informed the United States Consul about the stranded crew of the shipwrecked Saginaw on Kure Atoll. King Kalākaua promptly dispatched the Kīlauea, which arrived at Kure on January 3, 1871 to rescue the stranded Saginaw crew. William Halford was later given the Medal of Honor for his heroic efforts.
King Kalākaua Visits Hanalei
On March 17, 1874 the Kilauea carried the newly elected King Kalākaua into Hanalei Bay where he was greeted by a royal “21-gun salute. The guns were actually large logs of ‘ōhi‘a lehua bored out and packed with gunpowder.
These improvised cannons were set up on a hillside near where the boat was anchored, beneath a sign on theKilauea that read Hookahi Puuwai (“One Heart”). (Note: Proper spelling includes diacritical marks (e.g., Kīlauea; Ho‘okahi Pu‘uwai).) The log cannons were fired one after another, each in turn bursting apart the charge was released.
Masses of people greeted King Kalākaua as he rowed to the wharf and walked beneath an arch that read “God Save the King,” which was written with ferns placed over a white background. The national anthem was played by the Royal Band. Children scattered flowers in the King’s path, which was lined with the yellow and red blossoms of ‘ōhi‘a lehua. King Kalākaua was then led to a nearby area thatched with ferns and fragrant native maile, and a grand lū‘au commenced.
King Kalākaua’s party later journeyed up the Hanalei River, some riding horseback while others were rowed up the river in boats. Kalākaua stayed the night at the home of Kaukaha, and in the morning the royal party left Hanalei Bay and sailed around the Nāpali Coast to Waimea.[585] Hanalei was the first stop on the newly elected monarch’s royal tour of the Hawaiian Kingdom.
Princess Lili‘uokalani Visits Hanalei
Princess Regent Lili‘uokalani, the future Queen of Hawai‘i, arrived in Hanalei Bay on September 23, 1881. King Kalākaua was away from the Islands on a world tour at the time, and Lili‘uokalani (his sister) was serving as Regent in his absence.
The day after arriving in Hanalei, Princess Lili‘uokalani traveled to Kīlauea, where she had been invited by one of the Kīlauea Sugar Plantation’s owners, R.A. Macfie, Jr., to commemorate the Kīlauea Sugar Corporation’s purchase of a railroad engine as well as three miles of track and 24 railroad cars to carry the sugarcane. With two hard blows of the hammer, Princess Lili‘uokalani drove in the first ceremonial spike.
In 1910 the Kīlauea Sugar Plantation became the first in the Hawaiian Islands to use gasoline-powered tractors to cultivate the fields. The plantation was eventually shut down by C. Brewer in 1972. In 1942, the 2-foot (.6-m) narrow gauge track and railroad cars were replaced by trucks.
Queen Lili‘uokalani visited Hanalei again ten years later, arriving at Nāwiliwili Bay in the pre-dawn hours of July 8, 1891. The Queen was taken by carriage to Hale Nani, the home of William Hyde Rice, where hundreds of children greeted her. Ho‘okupu (gift-giving ceremonies) took place, and the Royal Band performed under the direction of conductor Heinrich “Henry” Berger.[586]
Two days later, after a visit to the Makee Plantation in Keālia, Queen Lili‘uokalani and her party rode by carriage to Hanalei where more receptions were held. On July 12, the queen boarded the James Makee intending to sail to Ni‘ihau, but was forced to endure tumultuous ocean conditions that night off the northern coast of Kaua‘i before sailing on to Ni‘ihau the next day.
After returning to Kaua‘i, Queen Lili‘uokalani’s party was welcomed at Waimea by a salute fired from the fort. Following a visit to Kōloa, the queen was honored with a traditional lū‘au (Hawaiian feast) attended by about 2,000 people in Kalapakī at the home of the Rice family.
Queen Lili‘uokalani was accompanied on her Kaua‘i tour by Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana‘ole, the grandson of Kaua‘i’s former ruler, Kaumuali‘i. Prince Kūhiō was the nephew and adopted son of Queen Kapi‘olani. Born on Kaua‘i in 1871, the prince had been named as heir presumptive to the throne by Queen Lili‘uokalani after she ascended to the throne in 1891.
The Deverill House—Hanalei Hotel
A prominent structure in Hanalei at the end of the 1800s and well into the 1900s was the Deverill House, also known as the Hanalei Hotel. The Western-style, timber-framed home was originally constructed in 1838 about ¾-mile away, near the Wai‘oli Mission House where it was built for Protestant teachers Mr. and Mrs. Edward and Lois H. Johnson. The Johnsons arrived at the Wai‘oli mission station in 1837 and lived in the home until 1867 at its original site.
Around 1890, the former Johnson home was rolled on logs of ‘ōhi‘a lehua to a site closer to the beach and to the east, where it became the home of William and Sarah Deverill. Sarah had lived in the home as a child when she was a ward of the Johnson family.[587] The home, which is no longer standing, was located across from the current site of the Hanalei Pavilion.
William Edward Herbert Deverill (1848-1904) came to the Islands from Lancashire, England, arriving at age eighteen with his brother Alfred Palmer Deverill. The Deverill brothers were part of a contingent sent by Queen Victoria to present a christening gift to her godson, Prince Albert. Sadly, the young prince had succumbed to sickness and passed away at age four.
After the Deverill brothers presented the gifts to the queen, William and Alfred remained in the Islands. William Deverill had studied in France, and after arriving in the Hawaiian Islands he worked at Kohala Ranch on Hawai‘i Island. He also worked in Hilo and Honolulu, including a job with Chase and Dickson photographic galleries where he learned photographic skills he later put to use in Hanalei.
William Deverill moved to Kaua‘i in 1875, initially living in Līhu‘e where he served as deputy sheriff under Samuel Wilcox. William married Sarah Benson Fredenberg, who was part Hawaiian and had grown up in Hanalei. Sarah was the daughter of Mary Kau Kellett Fredenberg, a daughter of Captain Kellett, Hanalei’s former Pilot of the Port.
William and Sarah Deverill had six children, including Edward, Percy, Florence, Stanford, Anne, and Herbert. The latter three were born 19 years after the first three. Also raised at the house was the Deverills’ niece Lena.
In 1887 the Deverills moved to O‘ahu, where William ran the Lunalilo home. Then in 1890 William and Sarah moved to Hanalei where they ran the Hanalei Hotel out of their home just west of Hanalei Pier. Sarah and William Deverill had three children—Edward, Florence, and Percy—and then more than fifteen years later had three more children—Anne, Herbert, and Stanford.
[Photograph: Hanalei Hotel]
[Photo Caption:]
Hanalei Hotel
Also called: The Deverill House.
Built: 1838—No longer standing.
Former Johnson Home—Moved from near Wai‘oli Mission House around 1890.
Over the decades, many changes were made to the Deverill House, including extensive remodeling and additions. The home site eventually became somewhat of a community center, with a lānai walkway connecting the main building to a separate structure that housed a Hawaiian Kingdom post office and general business place, including a tax office.[588]
The main part of the Deverill House was two-stories, with five bedrooms upstairs and verandas on both levels facing Hanalei Bay. Extending out from the back of this part of the home was a structure containing the kitchen and pantry as well as the dining room.
Rooms on the western side of the Deverill House were used by the family for sleeping when guests were staying in the main quarters. After phone service was installed in 1891, a phone call from Līhu‘e would alert the Deverills of arriving guests so they could begin making preparations.
A separate building near the Hanalei Hotel housed a dispensary where a medical clinic was offered twice a week by a Kīlauea doctor. The dispensary building also had an ironing room, and for many years was the quarters of Kateyama, the head helper, cook, and baker.
On the back side of the Deverill House were tanks to catch rainwater, and also a hale li‘ili‘i (outhouse). Other structures on the site included a chicken house and a barn. Various vegetables grew in the garden and rice paddies grew in the back yard. Behind the home and beyond the rice paddies was the Deverills’ boat house, on the banks of the Hanalei River.
The Deverill children sometimes escorted guests to local scenic spots. Prominent artists of the time who painted Hanalei landscapes included Otto Wix, Robert Barnfield, and D. Howard Hitchcock.
[Photograph: William Deverill]
William Deverill had a multitude of jobs, serving as district sheriff, tax assessor, road supervisor, and property manager for Albert Spencer Wilcox. As an agent for the Inter-Island Steam Navigation Company, William was in charge of all steam freight arriving or being sent from Hanalei Bay.[589] He also started a coffee plantation on leased land in Hanakāpī‘ai Valley on Kaua‘i’s Nāpali coast.
Sarah Deverill’s many roles included serving as manager of the Hanalei Hotel where she charged guests $3.00 a day for room and board. Sarah was also a midwife, and she was known as a gracious and dependable hard worker. In the early 1890s, Sarah operated a butcher shop, slaughtering animals and selling beef.
William Deverill was an avid photographer and used his darkroom at the Hanalei Hotel to develop his own pictures as well as those of his guests. Japanese residents often called William “Deverill Man,” and many Hawaiians called him “Kepolo.”[590] William Deverill died in 1904, and his grave site may still be seen alongside Wai‘oli Mission Hall (the former Wai‘oli Church) in Hanalei. The gravestone reads: W. E. H. Deverill, Burnly Lancashire, Eng., September 6, 1848-May 24, 1904, Hanalei, Kauai.
After William’s death, Sarah assumed many of his former duties, including serving as the region’s tax assessor and postmistress. The Hanalei Hotel remained in operation until 1920 when the automobile became popular, road improvements allowed faster access to Hanalei from Līhu‘e, and visitors no longer needed to stay the night in Hanalei. Sarah Deverill passed away in Honolulu in the 1930s.
One of the daughters of William and Sarah Deverill was Florence K. Deverill, who taught grades one through four at Hanalei School. Florence was much older than her younger siblings, who were among her students at Hanalei School. Also working at Hanalei School was Florence’s aunt, Elizabeth Fredenberg Lindley, who taught grades six through eight.
Another child of William and Sarah Deverill was Edward Deverill, who was born in 1881 and attended ‘Iolani and Punahou Schools in Honolulu before returning to Hanalei where he worked as the tax assessor. Edward later worked various other jobs in the Islands and married Barbara Ella Lee of Los Angeles, who worked as a school teacher in Makaweli.
After Edward’s retirement, Barbara and Edward moved to Hanalei where they built a house on the shore of Hanalei Bay. Barbara Deverill worked as a teacher at Hanalei School until 1952, and lived to age 100. Edward Deverill died on May 6, 1940, and was buried next to his father in the Wai‘oli Church Cemetery.
Edward and Barbara’s two sons were E.G.K. Deverill, Jr. and Herbert Spencer Deverill. Herbert worked for Universal Studios in Los Angeles as a motion picture art director before passing away in 1984. Barbara Ella Deverill’s sister, Etta Lee Brown, was a movie star who played roles opposite Rudolph Valentino and Douglas Fairbanks Sr.
Part 4
The Rice Era and the Beach Houses of Hanalei (1900—1950)
Roads and Bridges
The current road down into Hanalei Valley (Route 560) came into use around 1900. The new road replaced a steeper, winding route with three switchbacking S-curves that wound its way down the hill to a ferry that carried passengers over the Hanalei River.
The original road down into Hanalei Valley passed a post office as well as the home known as Kikiula, later known as Princeville Plantation House and then Princeville Ranch House. The road reached the valley floor just upriver from the current site of the Hanalei Bridge (built in 1912) at a place where several buildings associated with Princeville Plantation were located.[dxci]
Kaua‘i’s road system underwent a gradual improvement beginning around 1850, and in 1851 a report by Godfrey Rhodes, the vice president of the Royal Hawaiian Agricultural Society, stated: “The condition of the roads under the superintendence of foreigners is wonderfully improved, and the amount appropriated by government for their further improvement will render them tolerably good and easy for traveling on horseback. It is hoped that in the course of a very few years the whole of the distance between Hanalei and Waimea will be traversed by a good carriage road.”[dxcii]
According to Theophilus H. Davies, the founder of the “Big Five” firm of Theo H. Davies & Co., there was an alternate route into the valley when he visited in 1860. “My companion not being on as intimate terms with the proprietors, and moreover not wishing to be recognized by the ladies in our rough travelling dress, resolutely refused to take this private road,” recalled Davies, “and we descended by another path, half a mile lower down. Just as we reached the river-side, the royal barge containing the two young ladies and Mr. Wyllie passed, and notwithstanding Henry’s anxiety to avoid a recontre, we exchanged salutes.” [p. 56, Davies, Theo. An Account of the First Visit to the Island of Kauai in September 1860. Transcription from the original journal written in longhand on board S. S. “Ariel”, on the Atlantic, 22nd August, 1862.]
[Photograph: Road to Hanalei—pre-1900.]
[Photo Caption:]
“It is quite possible to drive in a light vehicle from Hanalei to Mana point, a distance of 65 miles.”
Henry Whitney, 1875[dxciii]
Sometime around 1885, the main route into the valley was realigned to where it is today. An 1893 government survey map shows both the old and new routes down into Hanalei Valley. In his 1895 journal, Eric Knudsen noted that the wagon trail extended only as far as Hanalei, and after that point travelers stayed near the shoreline where it was easier to cross the numerous rivers.
Until about 1900, the newer route into Hanalei Valley was more of a trail than a road. By 1904, the new alignment of the road was labeled as the primary route,[dxciv] and the former route came to be known as the “old road.”[dxcv]
Not far from where the road reached the valley floor it intersected the Hanalei River where a ferry was constructed to carry travelers across. “The winding road by which I descended before is a private road,” wrote Davies, “and at its foot the Hanalei river runs and has to be crossed by a raft that always lies there, belonging to the plantation.”[dxcvi] According to an 1899 publication, the ferry was “supported by government and the Princeville Plantation jointly.”[dxcvii]
Ferries were not quite as sturdy as bridge crossings, and sometimes led to precarious situations. In the mid-1800s, “there were no bridges in Wainiha,” recalled Josephine Wundenberg King, “although there were ferry scows at Lumahai and at Hanalei and Kalihiwai, I never liked crossing on them, for I was pushed off one at Princeville once by a kicking horse and never got over the fright. Most horses were nervous on them, and they were often leaky and tipped too much for comfort, mentally and otherwise. In the very old times natives paddled people over the rivers in canoes and swam our horses over for us, which was the safest if not the most convenient method.”[dxcviii]
The hand-pulled ferry over the Hanalei River operated until about 1895, when an iron-truss bridge was erected. Before about 1900, the wagon road extended past the Hanalei Bridge to Hanalei town, and beyond that point there was only a trail. Around 1904, wooden timber bridges were constructed over the streams flowing from the valleys of Waipā, Waikoko, Wainiha, and Lumaha‘i.
The early 1900s were a time of building, but they were also a time of letting go of some of the old places. An iron-truss bridge had replaced the ferry over the Hanalei River, and in 1912 it was replaced by the current steel bridge. For several years, pieces of the old bridge’s iron structure remained in the river, but these hazards were eventually removed by the government.
By 1917, the old coffee mill and Kikiula were gone. Elsie Wilcox wrote: “No signs of the house and garden are now to be found. Mr. Rhodes Coffee Mill was a little further up the river, on the opposite side from Limunui, above the present bridge, where the old scow used to be.”[dxcix]
[Photograph: Hanalei Bridge]
[Photo Caption:]
Hanalei Bridge
Built in 1912, replacing previous bridge built around 1895.
Maker: Hamilton and Chambers Company; New York, New York.
County Engineer: Joseph Hughes Moragne.
Repairs, Reinforcements: 1934; 1959-60; 1967; 1989; 2002-2003.
Hawai‘i and National Register of Historic Places: 1978.[dc]
Hanalei Bridge spans the Hanalei River at the bottom of a long hill that descends into Hanalei Valley from Princeville. The bridge spans 113 feet (34 m) over the Hanalei River, and is Hawai‘i’s oldest American-made, steel, through-truss bridge.
The structural type of the Hanalei Bridge is a through-truss (Pratt-truss) steel bridge, constructed on reinforced concrete abutments, with a timber deck. The vertical clearance from the timber deck of the bridge is 15 feet (4.6 m), and the horizontal clearance (width) at the deck is 17 feet (5.2 m).
The Carnegie Steel truss pieces were prefabricated in New York City by the firm of Hamilton & Chambers for the Territory of Hawai‘i. The connections were riveted at the bridge site and then the bridge was erected over the Hanalei River.
The 1912 bridge had a twelve-ton load limit until repair work in 1934 strengthened the super-structure. The Hanalei Bridge was damaged by the 1957 tsunami, and reinforcements were added in 1959. Warren trusses were added in 1967. (See Part 5: Hanalei Today.)
In 1912 and 1913, concrete bridges were erected at Wai‘oli, Waipā, and Waikoko[dci] by County Engineer Joseph Hughes Moragne (and later R. L. Garlinghouse), who undertook an extensive bridge building program. Also undertaken was the construction of a Kaua‘i “Belt Road,” a road paving project that was completed by about 1920 and extended from Mānā to Hā‘ena.
The construction of new bridges on Kaua‘i’s north shore was given impetus by the collapse of three of the region’s wooden bridges in the summer of 1912. The bridge failures were caused by heavily loaded wagons being used to move large amounts of crushed rock for road construction.
“Three bridges in the Hanalei District which are to be replaced with new ones, had collapsed. One bridge had been but fairly cleared by a loaded wagon, when it fell and crashed into the stream, while a second bridge went down carrying a part of the wagon with it. Fortunately, the team had secured sound footing and were able to withstand the strain. A third bridge collapsed with no great loss, as the timbers were useless.”
The Garden Island newspaper, 1912[dcii]
The new bridges built on Kaua‘i’s north shore were part of the effort to create the County Belt Road linking the north and west shores of Kaua‘i with a series of new bridges and a paved, improved road, making Kaua‘i’s modern road system the envy of the Islands.[dciii] In the first issue of 1913, The Garden Island newspaper reported “new concrete bridges now under construction are assuming a finished appearance. A new steel bridge has also replaced the old structure across the Hanalei River.”[dciv]
The Wai‘oli Bridge, located just past Hanalei town, is a concrete, cast-in-place, multi-span structure with pointed cap railings. Just past Wai‘oli bridge is Waipā Bridge, originally built in 1912. An additional span was added in 1946, lengthening the bridge to accommodate the new course of Waipā Stream after it was altered by the 1946 tsunami. The original portion of Waipā Bridge is double span, and cast-in-place, with pointed cap railings and beveled trim. The newer (1946) part of the bridge is also cast-in-place.
Waikoko Bridge, originally a concrete, cast-in-place structure built in 1912, partially collapsed during the 1946 tsunami. To make the bridge passable after the tidal wave, rocks were stacked up atop the fallen structure to make the bridge functional again. This repaired bridge remains in use to the present day, with low rock walls along the sides of the bridge serving as railings.
[Photograph: Wai‘oli Bridge]
[Photo Caption:]
Wai‘oli Bridge
Built: 1912
Hawai‘i and National Register of Historic Places: 1978.[dcv]
[Photograph: Waipā Bridge]
[Photo Caption:]
Waipā Bridge
Built: 1912; Lengthened: 1946.
Hawai‘i and National Register of Historic Places: 1978.[dcvi]
[Photograph: Waikoko Bridge]
[Photo Caption:]
Waikoko Bridge
Built: 1912; 1946.[dcvii]
Wai‘oli Mission in the 20th Century
As Hanalei moved into the 20th century, the descendants of pioneering Wai‘oli missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox restored the old mission buildings and also built a new church building. In 1912, Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church was built by Sam, George, and Albert Wilcox in honor of their parents, Abner and Lucy Wilcox. The new church, which is now one of the most photographed buildings in Hanalei, was constructed just east of the former Wai‘oli Church, which was built in 1841.
Albert Spencer Wilcox in particular was a leader in the effort to build the new Hanalei church, which became known as Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church Sanctuary. The green, spired building cost about $10,500 to build, including furnishings.
An article in The Garden Island newspaper on October 22, 1912 stated: “a corner store service preceded the dedication in connection with which Reverend W. B. Oleson gave a brief resume of the history of the church. A hermetically sealed copper box containing the current newspapers of the day including The Garden Island was placed in a recess in the corner stone and cemented in by Mrs. S. W. Wilcox...a generous luau hot from the imu followed the dedication service.”[dcviii]
Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church was designed in the American Gothic style with a Roman Doric.[dcix] The front gable “is largely filled with an immense stained glass window with a pointed arch.”[dcx] The church is also notable for its bell tower. The bell placed in the bell tower came from the adjacent Wai‘oli Belfry where it had sounded its tones to the congregation since 1843.
The October 29, 1912 edition of The Garden Island stated: “The New Church Building just dedicated at Hanalei is one of the most artistic and graceful churches on the Islands. But even more important, perhaps, it is an exceedingly well-built church...acoustically the best type of building with a charming gothic finish of steep roof and pointed windows.”[dcxi] The structure’s fine stained glass windows were said to be “works of art upon which the eyes ever delight to feast.”[dcxii] The windows were said to reflect “all the colors of the rainbow intensified.”[dcxiii]
Albert Spencer Wilcox considered the Mission House at Wai‘oli to be in hopeless disrepair in the early 1900s, and he contemplated burning the structure down. After Albert passed away in 1919, the Wai‘oli Mission House as well as the adjoining mission lands were sold to Elsie Wilcox, Mabel Wilcox, and Lucy Etta Wilcox Sloggett (the children of Samuel and Emma Wilcox). The three sisters then undertook an extensive restoration of the Wai‘oli Mission House and Wai‘oli Mission Hall (the former Wai‘oli Church).
Prominent Honolulu architect Hart Wood[dcxiv] was chosen to oversee the restoration project, and his plan encompassed the whole of the 20-acre site, including landscaping, fencing, and “draining and leveling of the common for the park.”[dcxv] “I hope to restore everything to its former condition,” wrote Wood, “and to retain the simplicity and unpretentiousness of the original.”[dcxvi] Wood took great care to retain the original features of the house, including the uneven widths of the original floorboards, and the lath and plaster of the interior walls.[dcxvii]
Some of the home’s original furnishings still remained in 1920, including Abner’s upholstered rocking chair as well as “a whale oil metal lamp, candlestick, the bookcase, many of Abner and Lucy Wilcox’s books and—remarkably—all the letters of Abner and Lucy Wilcox.”[dcxviii]
Once the Wai‘oli Mission House restoration was completed, the Wilcox sisters brought many of the original items owned by their grandparents (Abner and Lucy Wilcox) back to the house, including furniture, bedspreads, and shells. “Pitchers, a mantel clock, inkwells, Shaker boxes, the Chinese work basket and ceramics were returned to Waioli. George Wilcox brought back his mother’s Connecticut album quilt, and Lucy Etta Sloggett brought back her grandparent’s center table.”[dcxix]
In 1921, a rosewood table was returned “to its place in the beautiful front room at Waioli,” recalled Ethel Damon, “and as, for the first time in many years, the feet of guests again trooped over the low moss-green sandstone steps and through the broad, window-paneled front door, Etta Sloggett welcomed us all to the old house. That was a beautiful November day.”[dcxx]
The restoration was also celebrated with a church service that “reconsecrated its stately walls to the service of the community.”[dcxxi] Samuel Whitney Wilcox spoke to the gathering, and “told in flowing, beautiful Hawaiian of boyhood days at Waioli. His grandson and namesake gave over the old church keys to the Hawaiian leaders of the community. And afterward a great feast, a true paina luau, was there spread out for the visiting multitude.”[dcxxii]
In 1922, Elsie and Mabel Wilcox along with Ethel Damon visited the East Coast of the United States to purchase objects for the restored Mission House, including a chest of drawers that had been used by Abner Wilcox’s parents at their home in Harwinton, Connecticut.[dcxxiii]
In 1926, the Territory of Hawai‘i constructed a new Wai‘oli schoolhouse, a “spacious new six room building to further meet the needs of the Chinese and Japanese rice and taro farmers, storekeepers, the remaining Hawaiians and other families in the Hanalei valley.”[dcxxiv] The restored church building was used for “well-baby clinics” sponsored by the Territory’s traveling Public Health nurses who were directed by Mabel Wilcox.[dcxxv]
Medical assistance was generally not available locally in the early 1900s. Hanalei resident Frank Kurihara recalled, “In the early Twenties,” recalled Frank Kurihara, “you couldn’t afford to get sick, as there were no doctors or hospitals in Hanalei. There used to be a dispensary near the court house that tended to minor cuts and bruises. The nearest hospital was...at Kilauea Plantation. So most of us used traditional Hawaiian remedies for our sprains, cuts, colds etc. The Japanese had a traditional medicine peddler who came once a month to replenish the depleted stock. The horse doctor also came to treat all the ailing horses. All the babies were born with the aid of the midwives, as no one was rich enough to go to the hospital.”[dcxxvi]
[Photograph: Wai‘oli Mission House]
[Photo Caption:]
Wai‘oli Mission House
Cookhouse Built: 1834.
Main House Built: 1836-1837.
A dining room/pantry connected the Mission House to the cookhouse in 1840. In 1843 a rear lānai was constructed. In 1849 a lean-to bedroom was built (and later removed). In 1860, Edward Payson Wilcox added an upstairs bedroom over the dining room and pantry area of the Wai‘oli Mission House.
Restoration: 1921; Restoration Architect: Hart Wood; Contractor: Sam B. Goss.
National Register of Historic Places: 1973.
Extensive repairs were completed on the Wai‘oli Mission House in 1976.
The Mission House at Wai‘oli was the residence of the Alexanders from 1836 to 1843, then home to Mr. and Mrs. George B. and Malvina Rowell until 1846. The Wilcoxes lived in the Wai‘oli Mission House from 1846 to 1869.
[Photograph: Wai‘oli Mission Hall]
[Photo Caption:]
Wai‘oli Mission Hall
Also Called: Church Hall; Old Wai‘oli Church.
Built: 1841
New Shingle Roof: 1851; Pulpit, board floor, and seats added: 1861; Galvanized iron roof installed: 1883.
Restoration: 1921.
Restoration Architect: Hart Wood.
A kitchen wing was added to Wai‘oli Mission Hall in 1934.
National Register of Historic Places: 1973.
Archeological excavation of interior floor: 1979.
A second Wai‘oli Mission Hall restoration took place in 1979-1981.
The 1841 Wai‘oli Church served the congregation until 1912 when the new Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church was built. In 1921 the old church building was restored, and is now known as Wai‘oli Mission Hall, or Church Hall.
[Photograph: Wai‘oli Church Belfry]
[Photo Caption:]
Wai‘oli Church Belfry
Built: 1841; Restored: 1921.
Restoration Architect: Hart Wood.
The Wai‘oli Church Belfry underwent a second restoration in 1986-1987.
National and State Registers of Historic Places: 1973.
[Photograph: Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church]
[Photo Caption:]
Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church
Built: 1912.
Architect: Ripley and Reynolds.
The head carpenter in the construction of Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church was C. E. Haynes.
Architectural Style: American Gothic with a Roman Doric.
National and State Registers of Historic Places: 1973.
Extensive repairs were completed on the church in 1976. The church’s location is 5-5393A Kūhiō Highway (Route 560). Phone: 808-826-6253.
In 1934, a century after the arrival of the Alexanders at Wai‘oli, a lū‘au feast was held to celebrate the Wai‘oli Mission Centennial, the 100th year since the founding of the Wai‘oli mission station by pioneering missionaries William Patterson Alexander and his wife Mary Ann.
About 1,000 people, including many Alexander descendants, attended the Centennial along with seven different choir groups from Kaua‘i churches. A memorial address was given by Mary Alexander, the granddaughter of William and Mary Ann Alexander. The church choirs sang classics including “Hawaii Aloha and Na Molokama,” which “brought back the old days.”[dcxxvii]
“On Sundays, you could hear their glorious voices, singing the old Hawaiian songs and hymns, and also the songs composed by the famous Hawaiian composer, Alfred Alohikea, at the Waioli Hui Congregational Church in Hanalei...with the Reverend Akiona presiding, the beauty of Hanalei must have inspired Mr. Alohikea to compose all of those songs.”
Frank Kurihara[dcxxviii]
Also in 1934, to commemorate the Mission Centennial, a wing housing a kitchen was added to Wai‘oli Mission Hall. By 1945, Wai‘oli Church, Hā‘ena Church, and ‘Anini Church had joined to form the Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church, which was a Congregational Church until 1957 when it became a United Church of Christ.
The Wai‘oli Mission House was incorporated as a museum in 1952, and Elsie and Mabel Wilcox along with Lucy Etta Wilcox Sloggett established an endowment to guarantee the continued preservation of the historic home, which was opened to the public free of charge.
In the 1950s, Wai‘oli Park was leased to the community and became a public park.[dcxxix] A Wai‘oli Church Parsonage was built in 1966.
[Photograph: Centennial Group Photo]
[Photograph: Wai‘oli Mission House.]
“In 1934 mission descendants, especially of Father and Mother Alexander, celebrated at Waioli Church and home the hundredth year since the founding of that remote Mission station. Hawaiian congregations from all Kaui-nei gathered to share and contribute to the church services. Nor will any there ever forget those Hawaiians as they stood on the front verandahs of the old home and sang and sang, one beautiful Hawaiian hymn after another, till the very trees echoed back the sacred sounds.”
Ethel Damon[dcxxx]
Hanalei Today—Restoring Wai‘oli Mission
Extensive repairs to the historic Wai‘oli Mission House were completed in 1976, and a celebration of the event included a program of Hawaiian hymns and songs.
An archaeological excavation of the floor of Wai‘oli Mission Hall (the former Wai‘oli Church) took place in the summer of 1979. Analyses of artifacts and midden as well as bone and shell remains revealed an area of adze and fishhook construction that included prehistoric tool forms being used as late as 1832.
Also found during the excavation of the church floor were basalt sinkers, evidence of woodworking done with stone adzes, and an area where food preparation and consumption was centered around five separate hearths.[dcxxxi] After the archaeological work was completed, repairs of the 1841 Wai‘oli Mission Hall took place to stabilize the building.
A restoration of the Wai‘oli Mission Belfry took place in 1986-1987 and included excavating and re-setting the foundation stones and replacing the original ‘ōhi‘a lehua beams and structural members that had been used to construct the bell tower in 1841.[dcxxxii] Wood for the restoration came from ‘ōhi‘a lehua trees that had been knocked down in Kōke‘e State Park by Hurricane ‘Iwa in 1982.
Hurricane ‘Iniki struck Kaua‘i on September 11, 1992 causing severe structural damage to Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church and lifting the building off its foundation. Hurricane ‘Iniki caused more than $3 billion in property damage on Kaua‘i, including damage to more than 70% of the island’s homes, and completely destroying 1,421 homes.
The hurricane also damaged the church’s precious stained glass windows. After the hurricane, Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church underwent an extensive restoration, including the replacement of the historic windows with custom made replicas indistinguishable from the originals. Dedication ceremonies for the restored church took place in April of 1994.
Congregational hymns at the Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church Sunday service are still sung by the Wai‘oli Church Choir in the Hawaiian language. The hymn versions still used by the choir singers were originally translated by the early missionaries.
[Photograph: Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church, showing Wai‘oli Mission Hall (old Wai‘oli Church) in background.]
[Photo Caption:]
The Wai‘oli Mission has been serving the local congregation continuously since 1834: originally at a meetinghouse structure (no longer standing); from 1841 to 1912 at the first Wai‘oli Church (now Mission Hall); and from 1912 to the present day at Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church.
The Hanalei River
Hanalei Valley’s agricultural productivity is largely due to the plentiful water supply provided by the Hanalei River. The watercourse flows some 16 miles through Hanalei Valley and drains a watershed of about 19 square miles.
Flow rates on the Hanalei River range from 20 million gallons per day to more than six billion gallons per day.[dcxxxiii] The Hanalei River is one of the five largest rivers in the Islands, and drains into one of the state’s largest bays, Hanalei Bay.
[Photograph: Hanalei River.]
“The landing is within the mouth of a small river, which carries, for a considerable distance up , from one to three quarters of a fathom, into fresh water, and is further navigable for boats or canoes (drawing three feet) several miles...The scenery is beautiful, and my surprise is that such a favourable situation should so long have been overlooked.”[dcxxxiv]
Captain Edward Belcher, 1843[dcxxxv]
As the Hanalei River winds its way across the coastal plain, some of its water is diverted into the lo‘i kalo (taro patches) of Hanalei Valley. This water is channeled to and from the fields through a series of canals and ditches that eventually return the water to the river.
Water diversions from the Hanalei River were being considered as early as 1915, when Princeville Plantation manager Walter Foss Sanborn received a report by J.M. Lydgate saying that the water “now going steadily to waste on the north side of Kauai may be conveyed to the South side, where it could be disposed of at lucrative rates.”[dcxxxvi]
Attempts to grow sugarcane in the Hanalei region had been unsuccessful, but sugarcane continued to thrive on the rest of Kaua‘i. The increasing size of the sugarcane plantations led to the need for more water, and Kaua‘i’s north shore had abundant water sources.
Large-scale water diversions of the Hanalei River for use on distant sugarcane plantations began in the early 1900s, in part due to the work of Joseph Hughes Moragne, who was an engineer for the Līhu‘e Plantation from 1919 to 1937. Moragne supervised “the development of a complex water collection and transfer system, one that spanned and connected several watersheds from Hanalei to Koloa.”[dcxxxvii] In 1925, the Ka‘āpoko Tunnel was constructed to bring water from the Hanalei River to Wailua.
In 1926, Moragne engineered and built the 6,028 foot Hanalei Tunnel at a cost of $294,261 to divert water from the Hanalei River to Līhu‘e. Beginning at the 1,250-foot elevation of the Hanalei River basin, the Hanalei Tunnel carried water through to the Wailua River basin and down into the Maheo stream, which flows into the north fork of the Wailua River at an elevation of about 700 feet.[dcxxxviii]
From the Maheo stream the Stable Storm Ditch carried the water west to a south fork tributary, and then finally to the sugarcane fields of Līhu‘e.[dcxxxix] In 1928, a 3,558-foot tunnel was built at a cost of $150,000 to divert water into the Hanalei Tunnel from the Ka‘āpoko tributary of the Hanalei River.[dcxl]
[Photograph: Hanalei River]
“Hanalei river is lined with luxuriant foliage, and a boat ride on its smooth bosom, in a bright moonlight, rivals the Arabian Nights enchantment.”
Whitney, 1875[dcxli]
The Rice Era
Many of the historic homes and buildings that stand in Hanalei today were built during the rice era, which began in the Hanalei region in the 1860s. The rice era followed various failed agricultural attempts in the valley, including crops of mulberry trees (to raise silkworms), coffee, tobacco, and sugarcane, as well as attempts to raise cattle.
By 1870 rice had become a significant agricultural product throughout the Islands and soon would dominate the Hanalei landscape. In 1879, five Chinese farmers became the first Chinese to lease land from the Princeville Plantation, leasing 42 acres[dcxlii] of Hanalei Valley land for $15/acre/year.[dcxliii]
In 1880, an established Chinese rice factoring company, the Chulan Company, leased 300 acres of Hanalei Valley land from the Princeville Plantation for $20/acre/year. The Chulan Company had originally attempted to lease 700 acres, but Princeville Plantation manager Charles Koelling was concerned that Princeville’s upper plateau lands might be less fertile than the lower valley lands, and so he would not grant such a large lease.[dcxliv]
By 1882, sugarcane had all but disappeared in Hanalei’s lower valley in favor of rice, and just a small parcel of the valley was still planted in sugarcane. Other nearby valleys were also planted with rice along with virtually all suitable land along Hanalei’s coastal plain.
[Photographs: Rice Era]
In 1884, the Chinese population of Hanalei had grown to 459, increasing to 689 by 1896.[dcxlv] In 1895, Eric Knudsen wrote in his journal: “Rice field and taro patches covered the flat bottom lands as far as the eye could see...many Chinamen were working in the fields.”[dcxlvi]
By the end of the 1800s, rice was a primary agricultural crop in Hawai‘i, second only to sugarcane. In 1892, about 750 acres of the 7,321 acres of rice grown in Hawai‘i were in Hanalei and Wai‘oli valleys. Mokulē‘ia in O‘ahu was the second largest rice producing area in the Islands, with 738 acres in cultivation, followed by Waikīkī, which had 542 acres planted in rice.[dcxlvii]
Ninety percent of Hawai‘i’s rice came from Kaua‘i and O‘ahu. In the 1920s, Hanalei was the top rice-producing region, and “every flat area of Hanalei was cultivated in rice.”[dcxlviii] Though Chinese were the predominant ethnic group working in Hawai‘i’s rice industry during its early years, by the 1920s there were about equal numbers of Chinese and Japanese rice growers and millers.[dcxlix] The 1930s saw an influx of Filipino rice farmers in the Hanalei area.
“Opium was legal, and sold in small vials. When we were kids, we used to watch the addicts smoke it with their opium pipes, over a small lantern, and all the Chinese bachelors smoked their tobacco with water pipes.”
Frank Kurihara[dcl]
Changes in the ethnicity of the immigrant population in the early 1900s led to changes in what types of rice were grown. The Japanese population increased by about 30% as the Chinese population steadily decreased. “Hanalei Town in the early twenties,” recalled Frank Kurihara, “was predominately Hawaiian, Japanese, Chinese, Portuguese, some whites, and some other mixed races. It was a small rural town, as laid back as can be.”[dcli]
As the Japanese population increased, they soon became the principal rice consumers. The Japanese generally preferred the shorter grained Japanese varieties of rice, which were softer, more glutinous, and more flavorful than the Chinese varieties, which had a harder, starchier grain.[dclii] Rice imports from Japan also increased, rising from about 9½ million pounds in 1905 to nearly 30 million pounds in 1910.[dcliii]
The rise of rice as an agricultural product in Hawai‘i was due to several causes that began with the arrival of Captain Cook in 1778 and the subsequent Western influences—including sandalwood traders, whalers, missionaries, and foreign diseases—which caused a severe decline in traditional Hawaiian food production.
New governmental structures and land laws enacted by King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) in the mid-1800s allowed non-Hawaiians to buy land. These and other political events led to the availability of many traditional taro farming areas with good irrigation, and in Hanalei these lands were more suitable for growing rice than sugarcane.
Immigrant laborers who came to work on Hawai‘i’s sugarcane plantations often finished their contracts after three years, and then were free to start their own enterprises. Rice farming was a logical choice among the many Chinese and other Asian workers in the Islands since there was a strong demand for rice among the Asian community, and rice-growing land was available.
Growing and Milling Rice
The time it takes to grow a crop of rice, from planting to harvest, is about four months. The rice farmers of Hanalei were kept busy year round, however, by all of the other tasks involved in rice farming, including milling, equipment repair, field preparation, ditch clearing, ditch maintenance, and growing food to eat.[dcliv]
Hanalei’s wet climate allowed just one rice crop per year (planted in May), while drier areas on Kaua‘i, such as Hanapēpē, could produce two crops per year.[dclv] In the early years of Hanalei’s rice era, oxen and water buffalo were used to plow the fields.
When the fields were ready, usually in May, the farmers planted seed that had gone through a lengthy process that included being soaked in a stream for two days. The seed was germinated on a threshing floor for up to three days, and during this time the seed was covered with wet bags that were lifted and replaced several times daily to provide aeration.
The rice seed was then planted in seed beds that were immersed in about two inches of water. Peanut meal or sodium nitrate was added when the plants reached a height of about two inches. After about three weeks the seedlings were tied into bundles. This was generally done in the evening and into the night, and then the next day the seedlings were transplanted into the rice paddies.[dclvi]
Small farmers helped each other plant their fields, while large plantations hired many extra workers, known as “planting gangs.” Planters usually walked backwards while holding a bundle in one hand and using the other hand to poke the plants into the ground, planting up to six rows at once.
About one week after a field was planted it was flooded to about four inches deep, then harrowed to root up weeds and level the ground. About every three weeks the paddies were drained and weeded.
After the second weeding, fertilizer was applied to the dry ground, and after about two weeks the ground would start to crack. Then the fields were flooded again, the grain began to form, and the plant’s green husks filled with a sweet, milky fluid that gradually solidified as the grain turned a golden color. Within a few weeks the fields were drained and the rice was harvested.
Introduced Chinese sparrows known as nutmeg mannikins, also called rice birds,[dclvii] had to be constantly scared away from the fields because they drank the milky rice as it matured and also ate the kernels. To deter the birds from damaging the rice crop, poles were set up throughout the fields to hold a system of rock-filled cans and other noise-making devices. These noise makers were all linked together by a cord that was repeatedly pulled to scatter the birds.
Motono Haraguchi shot the birds with “old muskets that she filled with powder and stuffed with rags or paper. She did this carrying one child on her back and pregnant with another.”[dclviii] “In the early Twenties,” recalled Frank Kurihara, “you could buy gunpowder, B-B shot, sticks of dynamite in the stores. Even the rice bird guns that looked like a Daniel Boone musket, which we used to chase the rice birds away.”[dclix]
Thousands of rice birds would attack the crop as the grains ripened. “If left alone,” recalled Kurihara, “they’ll wipe out a patch in no time. To chase them away, we’d fire our rice bird guns, or rattle tin cans, strung all over the fields. We also ordered silk nets from Japan, which were about ten by thirty feet in area, and strung them all over the fields, like a volleyball net, wherever those pesky birds congregated.”[dclx]
When the rice was ready to harvest, the stalks were cut with a serrated sickle and allowed to dry before being bundled with cord made from the native hau tree.[dclxi] The bundles of stalks were brought to the threshing floor and laid out in concentric circles in three layers totaling up to 500 bundles.
Threshing took up to five days, and was done by horses attached to ropes tied to a pole at the center of the threshing floor. The horses walked around and around trampling the grain to separate the seed from the stalks, which were raked away as each successive layer was threshed. The horses were eventually replaced by tractors.[dclxii]
Winnowing separated the chaff and dust from the grain. The rice was raked into rows aligned with the wind and repeatedly sieved and sifted, and then dried by repeated spreading and raking. Finally, the rice was placed in 100 pound sacks that were sewn closed and stored in a granary. The end of the harvest was celebrated with elaborate banquets held by the rice plantations.[dclxiii]
“It was the Prohibition era, so revenue agents made their periodic raids for contraband liquor. Contraband sake was made by most of the farmers for their hired hands. So before the revenue agents came to search the premises, it was us kids’ job to take it out into the fields and hide it before they came. Of course, they could never find it, as the rice was about three feet tall, and after they left we’d bring it back to the house. Word always came from someone preceding the raid, so no one ever got caught.”
Frank Kurihara[dclxiv]
By 1893, there were at least five rice mills in the Hanalei region, including one near the Hanalei River about midway between the Hanalei Bridge and Hanalei town. The earliest rice mills usually consisted of two large mill stones that raised a pestle-shaped stone and dropped it into a stone bowl.
One of these old style mills was the See Tai Wai Rice Mill located in Hanalei town near the Say Dock House. Other early rice mills were located at Wai‘oli, Waikoko, and Wainiha.[dclxv]
Rice mills operated for up to three months after harvest, and the smaller rice farms brought their rice to the mills run by the larger plantations, such as Shing Kon Sung (Soy Sung Wai), located in the bend in the Hanalei River near the rivermouth.[dclxvi] Chinjiro Tasaka farmed rice on the east side of Hanalei Bay at Pu‘upōā Marsh (Kamo‘omaika‘i Fishpond) and took his rice by horse to the Hanalei River where it was carried across by boat and then hauled in Chock Chin’s wagon to the Chock Chin Rice Mill at Waikoko.[dclxvii]
Rice milling was done to clean and shell the threshed rice, removing the hulls and bran. The mills’ wheels were usually powered by water, so the rice mills were usually located near a river or other water source.[dclxviii] The rice was husked and polished, then graded and bagged for shipment to market. An adjacent granary held paddy rice and bran rice middling used for animal feed.
The waters of the Hanalei River were an integral component of rice growing and milling, powering the mill’s machinery and driving the network of belts and conveyor systems. Runoff also provided hot baths that soothed the sore muscles of the rice workers. At the Haraguchi Rice Mill on the Hanalei River, workers were “treated to a traditional Japanese furo bath following their workday.”[dclxix]
In 1910, 503 farms in the Hawaiian Islands grew rice on 9,435 acres of land. A major boost in Hawai‘i’s rice production occurred between 1910 and 1917. Total acres farmed in rice then began to decrease rapidly due to increased production in California where rice acreage climbed from 1,400 to 80,000 acres between 1912 and 1917.
By 1919, there were 546 rice farms in the Hawaiian Islands, but total acreage had dropped to 5,801 acres. California rice producers continued to dominate the rice industry in the early 1920s, when hired hands on Hanalei’s rice farms were paid about a dollar a day and worked six days per week.[dclxx]
“By the Thirties,” recalled Frank Kurihara, “wages came up to one dollar and fifty cents. [Rice farm workers] had a place to sleep, four meals a day, breakfast at six, lunch at ten, coffee break at two, and supper at five, plus all the sake to drink at supper with their meal.”[dclxxi]
Total rice acreage in Hawai‘i in 1930 was 2,045 acres on 227 farms. By 1933 just 825 acres in the Islands were farmed in rice.”[dclxxii]
Diesel engines eventually replaced the region’s water-powered rice mills. The leather-type wheels of the new hullers caused less breakage of the rice than the stone rollers of the earlier Chinese stone mills. In the 1930s, the Haraguchis ordered a Japanese-made huller as well as hulling equipment from New York’s Englebert Huller Company.[dclxxiii]
“The great stretch of lowland between the Hanalei and Waioli rivers, now planted to rice fields,” wrote Ethel Damon in 1931, “was in the old days an undrained swamp.”[dclxxiv] This swampland, however, may have actually been former taro lands that had been abandoned after the rapid decline of the native Hawaiian population throughout the 1800s.
Living quarters for workers on larger rice plantations usually included a bath house, an outdoor area for cooking, a kitchen and dining room, and a central living area where the workers slept on cots. At the center there was usually a shrine to Kwan Ti, the Chinese God of war.[dclxxv]
When the Japanese became the predominant workers in the rice industry, a Japanese Hongwanji would often be constructed near the plantation. As Hawai‘i’s rice market declined, some Hanalei farmers began to grow specialized mochi rice, which was sold and consumed locally.
Hanalei resident Frank Kurihara remembered visits by Hawaiian friends “bringing fish, laulaus, or kalua pig. The Chinese friends came with roast pork manapuas and other Chinese delicacies. The Portuguese friends came over with malasadas, sweet bread and wine. In turn, our Mom would give them mochi, sushi, and other delicacies she’d prepared, also a bottle of sake for everyone.”[dclxxvi]
Hanalei Pier
Today one of the most scenic views anywhere is from the end of the Hanalei Pier. The pier is surrounded by the turquoise waters of Hanalei Bay and the waterfall-lined mountains wrapping around the crescent-shaped shoreline. On the grass lawn near the base of the Hanalei Pier is Black Pot Beach Park, the site of many local gatherings.[dclxxvii]
People of all ages surf the waves that break alongside the pier and all down the beach. Hanalei Pier is also a favorite place for local kids to play, and they often jump from the pier into the water. Swimmers should be extremely careful, however, as the water around the pier is often very shallow, particularly at low tide, and serious injuries have resulted from people diving from the pier.
[Photograph: Rivermouth; upper Hanalei Valley.]
“Its mouth, where [Hanalei Bay] opens on the Pacific, is from two to three miles wide, but the boundary mountains gradually approach each other, so that five miles from the sea a narrow gorge of wonderful beauty alone remains.”
Isabella Bird Bishop, 1873[dclxxviii]
The first Hanalei Pier was constructed of wood in 1892 on the eastern side of Hanalei Bay near the mouth of the Hanalei River. In 1911, when the rice industry in Hanalei was thriving, construction began on a longer, more substantial pier at the same location.
The new Hanalei Pier was completed in 1912, using the relatively new technique of reinforced concrete. The architectural design was provided by the firm of Conney and Morris, and the pier had a wooden deck.
Hanalei Pier was built primarily for use by rice farmers needing to load their cargo on ships to get it to market. The milled rice was brought down the Hanalei River on small, flat-bottom boats. After being transported downriver, the rice was offloaded at a landing near the rivermouth so that the small river boats didn’t have to enter the ocean bay.
The mouth of the Hanalei River is just adjacent to Hanalei Pier, and provided easy access to the rice plantations of Hanalei Valley. Much of the valley’s rice “arrived at the pier area on the black barges of the rice plantations up the river.”[dclxxix] From the mauka landing, the milled rice was shuttled to the end of the pier on a set of iron railroad tracks and then loaded onto boats.[dclxxx]
Small whale boats known as “lighters” carried rice to steamers anchored out in Hanalei Bay.[dclxxxi] At the foot of Hanalei Pier was a freight storage warehouse also connected to the pier by railroad tracks.[dclxxxii] Freight transferred to and from the boats in Hanalei Bay included farm supplies and food, such as tinned products.
Some freighters bringing cargo to Hanalei had to wait outside the bay, particularly when the ocean was rough. Interisland steamers docked in the deeper waters of Hanalei Bay while cargo was rowed to and from the pier.
[Photograph: Hanalei Pier]
[Photo Caption:]
Hanalei Pier
Originally Built: 1892.
Rebuilt: 1912. Architectural Design: Conney and Morris.
Concrete Deck and Extension: 1921.
Shed Built at End of Pier: 1940s.**[dclxxxiii]** Re-Roofed 1973.
Hawai‘i and National Registers of Historic Places: 1979.
Pier Rebuilt after Hurricane ‘Iniki: 1992-1993.
Walter Foss Sanborn, the manager of the Princeville Plantation, also served as Hanalei’s Wharfinger, supervising the loading and unloading of vessels at Hanalei Pier and checking freight and bills of lading. Eventually a derrick was installed at the end of the pier to load and unload cargo going out to, or coming in from, the freighters. Just once each month these freighters would come up to the northern part of the island, stopping at Ahukini, Anahola, Kīlauea, and Hanalei.[dclxxxiv]
Community members would gather at the pier when ships arrived in Hanalei Bay with cargo. On these “boat days” local children sometimes swam out to the ships and “merchants from all the stores arrived to sort out their goods, farmers loaded theirs, and individuals came to pick up special orders...Arriving provisions included huge redwood boxes with ice packed in rice husks.”[dclxxxv]
The children of Walter Foss Sanborn enjoyed trying to catch a ride on a whaling boat, and were sometimes rewarded with fresh United States Mainland fruit including peaches and plums. The mischievous kids once swam out to the freighter, which was considered dangerous, and led to admonishments by their parents.
The interisland steamer brought freight to Hanalei about once a month, and store owners and rice planters headed for the pier with their horse-pulled carts and wagons. The daughter of Walter Foss Sanborn recalled hiding along the road in front of the Deverill house on the beach road, and “hooting and hollering when the wagons went by,” and then suppressing their laughter as the drivers cursed “while they struggled to keep their shying horses under control.”[dclxxxvi]
The wooden deck of Hanalei Pier was replaced with reinforced concrete in 1921, and the pier was extended. Princeville Ranch soon began shipping cattle from Hanalei Bay, and in 1927 a temporary corral was built on the beach near Hanalei Pier.[dclxxxvii]
In the early 1930s, a breakwater was built at Nāwiliwili Bay, which then became a preferred loading and unloading point for freight on Kaua‘i. The rice industry, which had thrived in the valleys of Hanalei and Wai‘oli since the late 1800s, was in decline. Significant rice exports from Hanalei fell off sharply, as did the commercial use of Hanalei Pier.
Hanalei Pier has been seen in many Hollywood movies, often as a backdrop. Scenes from Bird of Paradise were filmed on Hanalei Bay in 1950, and South Pacific was filmed there in 1957. During the 1960 filming of Wackiest Ship in the Army, starring Jack Lemmon, the filming barge at Hanalei came loose twice, causing damage to Hanalei Pier. Repairs to the pier were later financed by the film studio and the barge company.
[Map: Hanalei in the Rice Era]
Hanalei in the Early 1900s—A Journey through Old Hanalei
The Hanalei region was particularly prosperous from about 1890 to 1925 due to the rice industry. This wealth led to the opening of numerous stores and mills that dotted the landscape from Hanalei Bridge to Hanalei town and beyond.[dclxxxviii] Also constructed during this period were many places of worship, including Christian churches and Buddhist temples, as well as Japanese and Chinese language schools.
Local stores were central to the rice farming community’s social life, particularly on Sundays when residents gathered to exchange news and make business deals. Stores provided items for sale that could not be grown or produced locally, including “canned goods, staples like flour and sugar, butchered meat, baked goods, kerosene, and later gasoline, yardage and sewing supplies, hats, clothing, watches, and some farm supplies.”[dclxxxix]
The 1914 Polk-Husted Directory of Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii listed eight general merchandising stores (seven Chinese-owned) and twelve Chinese rice planting companies in the Hanalei region.[dcxc]
Some Chinese-owned stores in Hanalei in the early 1900s were: Ah Hoy Store (later called Ching Ma Leong Store); Chong Hing Store; T. S. See Wo Store; Ching Young Store; Katayama Store; and Chock Chin Store (later called C. Akeoni Store, Lau Store, and Hanalei Store[dcxci]). There was also “a Chinese store about half-way up the valley,”[dcxcii]and the Japanese-owned Hamamura Store.
Ah Hoy Store, located just above Hanalei Bridge on the Hanalei side of the road, was a general merchandise store and auto livery. Ah Hoy was later renamed Ching Ma Leong Store and relocated to the Trader Building (rebuilt after Hurricane ‘Iniki, now the site of the Dolphin Building) on the banks of the Hanalei River just before Hanalei town.[dcxciii]Across the road from Ma Leong was the Takahashi rice farm.
After crossing over the Hanalei Bridge, turning up the river road (now ‘Ōhiki Road) led to the rice farms of the Haraguchi family and the Atuck Wong family. Also on the river road was the Haraguchi Rice Mill,[dcxciv] built in 1930 on the site of the Chinese-owned Man Sing Rice Mill,[dcxcv] which had burned down earlier that year.
[Photograph: Haraguchi Rice Mill]
[Photo Caption:]
Haraguchi Rice Mill
Built: 1930, on site of Man Sing (“Million Success”) Rice Mill.
Restored: 1982 (after Hurricane ‘Iwa); 1992 (after Hurricane ‘Iniki).
Hawai‘i and National Register of Historic Places: 1983.The Haraguchis—A Tradition of Farming
The initial founders of the Haraguchi rice farming operation in Hanalei were Tomijiro and Ine Haraguchi. They came to Hawai‘i from Asa Kura Maru in Fukuoka Prefecture, Japan more than three-quarters of a century ago. Tomijiro and Ine had four sons: Kahyohei (Kahei), Sueji, Fujio, and Fusao.
Along with farming rice, the Haraguchi family also fished the waters of Hanalei Bay. Fusao had a fishing sampan built at Kukui‘ula and used it for commercial fishing based out of Hanalei Bay. The boat was named Asa Kura Maru after the Haraguchi’s home village in Japan.[dcxcvi]
Kahyohei Haraguchi, whose name was “shortened to Kahei because people had difficulty pronouncing his full name,”[dcxcvii] worked as a contract laborer for the Gay & Robinson sugar plantation and then worked in the pineapple industry in Kapa‘a while supplementing his income by growing rice in Hā‘ena near the current site of the Hanalei Colony Resort.[dcxcviii]
Kahyohei and his Japanese-born wife Motono had one daughter, Thelma Matsuo, and three sons: William, Isami, and Tsutomu. Motono passed away on December 14, 2002 at the age of 99, and at the time had thirteen grandchildren, 24 great grandchildren, and one great great grandchild.
William Haraguchi, the first son of Kahei and Motono, was born in Kapa‘a in 1922 and grew up on Kaua‘i’s north shore. William worked for many years at the Haraguchi Rice Mill, milling rice for farms as far away as Kapa‘a.
The Haraguchi family continued their Hanalei rice farming operation during a time when many other farms and rice mills throughout the Islands were forced to shut down. In the 1930s the Haraguchis farmed about 75 acres of rice. In 1949 they modified a gasoline-powered, ¾-horse, clipper tractor and later purchased a combine.[dcxcix]
When the Haraguchi Rice Mill finally shut down in 1960, it was the last rice mill operating in the Hanalei region. The Haraguchi’s Hanalei rice farm, like many other rice farms throughout the Hawaiian Islands, had become unprofitable due to United States Mainland competition, damage to the crops in the fields by rice birds,[dcc] and other problems. Some rice farms switched to other crops and some rice mills were converted to other uses, including the Haraguchi Rice Mill building, which was later used to mill taro.
The Haraguchi family’s tradition of farming in Hanalei Valley is now on its fifth generation and counting. Today the Haraguchis continue to farm large expanses of taro in Hanalei Valley (see Part 5).
[Photograph: William Haraguchi.]
[Caption:]
William Haraguchi has been honored as one of Kaua‘i’s “Living Legends.”
Just upriver from the Haraguchi Rice Mill on the west bank of the river across from the Man Sung Wai Rice Mill,[dcci] the rice farmers of a Chinese fraternal society built a Chinese Temple as well as a clubhouse and social hall known as the Yee Hing Society Community Home.[dccii]
The Yee Hing served various functions for the charitable association called Yee Hing Hui, and was a place where “bachelor Chinese men and travelers found a ready welcome to live there or spend a few days gossiping or gambling, playing ma jong or rolling dice.”[dcciii]
A large room on the upper floor of the Yee Hing was used for dinners and banquets. Rooms on the lower floor were rented to older Chinese workers,[dcciv] and “vegetables pigs, chickens and ducks were grown and raised.”[dccv] The Yee Hing also served as a Chinese Language School for children.
Sundays in particular drew large crowds at Yee Hing, which for a time was also the home of Chinese school teacher Wong Lee Yau.[dccvi] After the decline of the Chinese population in the Hanalei region, Princeville Ranch manager Fred Conant had the Yee Hing building torn down.[dccvii]
Another rice era structure located along ‘Ōhiki Road was a Japanese Hongwanji used by Japanese Buddhists of the rice farming community. Altar shrines from the Hongwanji were later relocated to a newly built Hongwanji in Kapa‘a.[dccviii]
On the lower western slopes of Hanalei Valley is the Hanalei Chinese Cemetery, also known as Ah Goong San (Grandfathers’ Mountain) and often referred to as the Community Cemetery.[dccix] The Chinese Cemetery covers a piece of land about 525 feet north to south, and about 200 feet from east to west, with at least 75 tombstones.
A semi-circular cement altar at the Cemetery serves as a “mass grave monument for single Chinese men,”[dccx]and was erected in 1906 by the Chinese fraternal society known as Yee Hop Tong.
When the mass grave monument in the Hanalei Chinese Cemetery was built in 1906, the Manchu Emperor still reigned in China. Most other similar monuments in the Islands were built after the Chinese Republic was established in 1912. [dccxi]
After ten years of burial at the Chinese Cemetery, according to tradition, “the body is exhumed and the bones are carefully collected, cleaned, arranged in certain order, and reburied in a large urn in the reserved section.”[dccxii]
Chinese Society members met at the cemetery the day before Ching Ming Day (Decoration Day) every April to clean up the gravesites and maintain the general area. On Ching Ming Day food was placed at the center of the altar for the departed souls.
Typical offerings included “five bowls of rice, five cups of whiskey, a platter of cooked chicken (male), cooked pork, cooked bean curd, cooked tofu, a platter of Chinese pastries, five oranges and five tangerines and a Chinese roast pig.”[dccxiii] Fire crackers were set off, and incense was burned as well as candle punks. After the ceremony everyone went to the Yee Hing where the food items were consumed.
Gravesites in the Chinese Cemetery date to at least the 1930s. The site is shown in an 1848 Land Court Awards map created before significant Chinese immigration to Hawai‘i took place, and thus was likely previously used by Hawaiians.
Most of the tombstones at the Chinese Cemetery are inscribed with Chinese characters. Past advisors and caretakers of the Chinese Cemetery included “Mr. Chong Hing, Mr. Wong Wo Tuck, Mr. Say Dock, Mr. Sam Kent Ho, Mr. Larry Ching, Mr. Ma Leong, and Mr. Harry Ho.”[dccxiv]
Further up the river road (now ‘Ōhiki Road) past the Chinese Cemetery was the home of a Spanish family named Pisante. In this general area upriver from Hanalei Bridge on both sides of the river, some rice era buildings are still standing, including: the Mal Quick House (1925); the Wong House (on a 1910 rice mill site); the Haraguchi House (1930s); the Mike Fitzgerald House (1925); and the Jed Mamaril House (1930s).[dccxv]
Back on the Government Road (Route 560) and proceeding toward Hanalei town there were a series of rice farms and rice era stores. About ¼-mile from Hanalei Bridge on the mountain side of the road was Chong Hing Store, a general merchandise and grocery store owned by the grandfather of Kaua‘i County Council member Kaipo Asing.
Past Chong Hing were the rice farms of the Ueda, Takenaka, Liu, and Miiki families, and further in toward the mountains was the Lum farm.[dccxvi] Seaward (makai) of the main road between Chong Hing and the Trader Building[dccxvii] was the Japanese-owned Hamamura Store.[dccxviii]
The land on the other side of the Government Road is enclosed within the great bend in the Hanalei River. In ancient times this land was called Pā‘ele, which means “Black” or “Dark.”[dccxix]
During the rice era this area between the Hanalei Bridge and the Hanalei rivermouth was the site of the Shing Kon Sung Rice Plantation (formerly Soy Sung Wai). Today on this land is the Hanalei Gardens Farm and Bison Ranch, which may be seen from the roadside pullout on the hill descending toward the bridge. After crossing over the HanaleiBridge and heading toward Hanalei town, the area may be seen across the river on the right.
On the seaward side of the road at the eastern end of Hanalei town was the Trader Building (site of Ching Ma Leong Store (formerly Ah Hoy Store), and Mrs. Shiraishi’s Barber Shop. Just west of the barber shop was I. Nakatsuka General Store,[dccxx] which operated from about 1900 until the 1950s. The Nakatsuka family lived behind the store, which later became part of the Tahiti Nui building (see Part 5).
Near the eastern end of Hanalei town lived the Shak, Tasaka, and Hoe families as well as Alfred ‘Alohikea. On the mountains side of the road was the home of the Ho Pak Yet family. During the second half of the 1900s this was the residence of Harry Ho, a school teacher and principal on Kaua‘i’s north shore at Hanalei School and Hā‘ena School.[dccxxi] Harry Ho was a respected local historian, and in the 1960s the Ho residence was known as the Hanalei Museum and Snack Shop. Harry Ho passed away in 1989 at the age of 83.[dccxxii] The museum was destroyed by Hurricane ‘Iniki in 1992. After the death of Harry Ho, the Hanalei Museum was run by Wayne Harada.
[Photograph: Harry Ho]
[Photograph: Hanalei Museum]
The Ching Youngs
One of the most prominent and successful early rice farming families living in the Hanalei region was the Ching Young family. Descendants of the original Ching Youngs continue to play influential roles in the Hanalei community today.
Around 1900, Ching Yuk Hom (Ching Young) came to Hawai‘i from China’s Chung San District. Ching Young initially settled in Kapa‘a on Kaua‘i’s east side where he ran a restaurant (a Chop Suey House) and mercantile store called Kwong Chong Kee with his brother and other partners (the Tam family).[dccxxiii]
Ching Young and one of his brothers later leased a piece of land in Hanalei from the Wilcox family[dccxxiv] and opened a rice mill and store. The store building was constructed in 1905-1906. According to Lawrence Ching, the store “may have been operated by a Mr. Chu (or Chew) before the Ching family took over in 1907.”[dccxxv]
Ching Young married Dang Ha Ching, who was born in Hanapēpē, Kaua‘i, and their union arranged by a traditional Chinese matchmaker. Dang Ha Ching was “the third and youngest child of Dang Dat Po and Dang Chang Shee.”[dccxxvi] Dang Ha Ching’s (Mrs. Ching Young’s) wedding dress was shipped to Hawai‘i from Hong Kong, and is now in the collection of the Kaua‘i Museum.
The newlyweds lived in Kapa‘a where they gave birth to Florence and Ellen, the first two of their eight children.[dccxxvii]
The Ching Young family moved to Hanalei in 1911 to work full time at Ching Young Store and Ching Young Rice Mill. In 1914, the Ching Youngs became the sole owners of the enterprise when they bought out co-owner Tam Kee of Kapa‘a. Supplies such as dry goods and denim that were needed to stock the Ching Young Store were brought by the steamships that came to Hanalei to transport the valley’s rice.[dccxxviii]
While living in Hanalei, Mr. and Mrs. Ching Young gave birth to six more children: Dora, Laura, Lawrence, Douglas, Calvin, and Janet. The Great Depression of 1929 caused financial hardship for the Ching Youngs, and in the early 1930s Mr. Ching Young was debilitated by a major stroke. He passed away in October of 1933 when his youngest child was just four years of age.
After the death of Mr. Ching Young, Mrs. Ching Young continued to run the store and rice mill, and raise her eight children. A deeply religious person, Mrs. Ching Young maintained a Taoist altar in her home and faithfully practiced her Chinese traditions.
In the 1930s, competition from California along with other factors caused a steady decline in Hawai‘i’s rice market. This brought continued hardships for the Ching Young Store and Ching Young Rice Mill. Supplies to stock the store were cut off in 1936 by a west coast shipping strike, and 5,000 bags of rice were stored at the mill to help supply the Hawaiian Islands with rice.
The Ching Young Rice Mill was closed in the mid-1940s, but the Ching Young Store remained in business. After the 1941 bombing of Pearl Harbor, which entered the United States into World War II, Hawai‘i’s business climate changed. The war created a demand for products, and helped insure the survival of the Ching Young Store, which again supplied rice statewide.
Mrs. Ching retired in 1950 but remained active in the Kaua‘i community. Her eldest son, Lawrence L.T. “Larry” Ching and his wife Jeanie took over the family business, which prospered throughout the 1950s and 1960s when sugarcane was a driving force of Hawai‘i’s economy. A post office was opened at the Ching Young Store in the 1950s.
Mrs. Ching passed away in 1967 at the age of 80. Larry Ching continued the operation of the store as tourism became a major part of Kaua‘i’s economy. In the 1960s and on into the 1970s, and Larry began to develop the Ching Young Village Shopping Center. In 1975 a new Hanalei Post Office was built on the land next to Ching Young Store, which was owned by Mrs. Clorinda Nakashima.
The Ching Young Store was sold to the locally owned Big Save Family of Markets, and the Chings continued to develop the Center’s many shops and businesses. Larry Ching passed away on September 7, 1997.[dccxxix]
Today the Ching Young Center continues to be run by the Ching family. The original Ching Young Store building is located on the eastern side of the expanded Ching Young Village Shopping Center. The old store building is now occupied by two art and gift stores called Evolve Love and On the Road to Hanalei.
[Photograph: Ching Young Store]
[Photo Caption:]
Ching Young Store
Built: 1905-1906 by Mr. Chu [Chew].
Status: Still standing, in commercial use.
The Kodama Barber Shop was located just west of Ching Young Store in the area between the current Hanalei Post Office and Big Save Market.
A Chinese Christian (Congregational) Church was located across the road from Ching Young Store, in the area where the Hanalei Center (Wailele Building) is now located. Frank Kurihara referred to the Chinese Church building as “Mr. Low’s Chinese School and Temple.”[dccxxx] Reverend Tsui Hin Wong was the church minister in 1930.[dccxxxi]Next to the church was a Parsonage, which later became the office of Ironwood Realty before the building was destroyed by Hurricane ‘Iniki in 1992.[dccxxxii]
The Say Dock House is located just west of where the Chinese Church and Parsonage were located, and is today one of the few remaining rice farmer homes still standing in the Islands. A concrete threshing floor, though quite aged and broken, still remains in front of the Say Dock House. Two other rice farmer homes in Hanalei had concrete threshing floors, but neither remains standing.
[Photograph: Say Dock House]
[Photo Caption:]
Say Dock House
Built: 1895.
Restored: 1988. National and State Registers of Historic Places: 1988
Private Residence-Please Do Not Go On Property.
One of Hanalei’s earliest rice mills was the See Tai Wai Rice Mill, located near the Say Dock House. See Tai Wai was an old style mill that used large mill stones to lift a pestle-shaped stone that was dropped into a stone bowl.[dccxxxiii]
The T. S. See Wo Store was located just west of the Say Dock House and across the road, at the current site of theChurch of Latter Day Saints.[dccxxxiv] Also on the makai (seaward) side of the main road in this area was Katayama Store, and Takenaka Auto Repair [Takahashi’s Garage and Repair Shop]. West of the Auto Repair shop wasNagaoaka Restaurant and Bakery, considered by some to be “the best eatery in town.”[dccxxxv] Just past the restaurant was a Gas Station.
Some of the families living in Hanalei town during the rice era were the Matsuda, Ah To, Say, Homma, Lee, Kam, and Au families, according to Frank Kurihara.[dccxxxvi] The 1914 Polk-Husted Directory listed some rice plantations and stores of the Hanalei region included: Ah San, Ah Ching, Chock Lung, Chong Sing, Chong Wai, Hop Sing, Man Sing Co, Sing Fat Wai Co. Sing Yick Co, Soy Sung Wai Co., Tai Kan, Tai Sing Wai, and Sing Wai Co.[dccxxxvii]
Located at Mālolo Road and Route 560 was the Hanalei Shingon, a Japanese Shingon Temple that began operating as early as 1903. Next to the Shingon was a Japanese Language School[dccxxxviii] built in 1934. The Shingon Temple became a popular gathering place that served as the site for various local functions and celebrations, including weddings and funerals as well as the Obon dori celebration held each July.[dccxxxix]
The north shore community looked forward to the traditional Bon Dance, which included a carnival with food and games. Eventually the event became so popular it had to be held across the street in Wai‘oli Park.[dccxl]
Things changed quickly after the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1941. The United States entered World War II, and many of the most influential Japanese and Japanese-Americans[dccxli]—including community leaders, ministers, Buddhist priests, and principals of Japanese schools—were detained and sent to internment camps.
Initially the Japanese and Japanese-Americans detainees were taken to Sand Island, which began its use as an internment camp on December 8, 1941. About 1,500 residents of the Hawaiian Islands were part of about 115,000 Americans of Japanese ancestry interned in ten internment camps on the United States Mainland. (Note: The Civil Liberties Act of 1988 provided restitution for the internment, allocating $1.6 billion to 82,000 people in 1999.)
The forced internments of the Japanese teachers and ministers of the Hanalei Shingon brought an end to the use of the Temple for religious purposes. The building was later moved across the main road to a site behind the Lily Pond House where it was used as a clubhouse for the community’s young Japanese men.[dccxlii]
Despite the harsh and often racist treatment Japanese residents received after the Pearl Harbor attack, many Japanese-Americans throughout the Hawaiian Islands still wished to show their loyalty and volunteered to join the war effort. They formed the 100th Infantry Battalion and 442nd Infantry Regimental Combat Team, which became the most decorated units in United States history, earning more than 18,000 total awards for their valorous fighting (despite suffering high casualty rates) in Italy, Germany, and France.
In June of 1944 in Italy, the 100th Infantry Battalion joined ranks with the 442nd Infantry Regimental Combat Team. The 442nd/100th fought in Italy before participating in the invasion in southern France. For their heroic efforts despite heavy losses in Italy, France, and Germany, the 442nd became known as the “Purple Heart Battalion.”
The motto of the 442nd was “Go For Broke,” a Hawaiian slang term referring to risking everything. In October of 1944 they broke through German forces and liberated the French town of Bruyeres from the Nazis, and then rescued 211 members of the “Lost Battalion” (1st Battalion, 141st Infantry Battalion, 36th Infantry Division), in Biffontaine, losing more than half of their own soldiers in the process—800 soldiers in a one month period.
The “Lost Battalion,” known as the “Alamo Regiment” was trapped behind enemy lines for five days, surrounded by Germans and out of food and ammunition. The rescue of the “Lost Battalion” was considered a pivotal battle in the war, and one of the most famous battles of military history. Awards given to the 442nd included 9,486 Purple Hearts, 52 Distinguished Service Crosses, 8 Distinguished Unit Citations, and 21 Congressional Medals of Honor.
[Photograph: Japanese Shingon Temple]
[Photo Caption:]
Hanalei Shingon—Japanese Shingon Temple
Built: 1934.
Moved: Around the start of World War II.
Original Site: Behind current site of St. Williams Catholic Church on Mālolo Road and Route 560.
[Photograph: Japanese Language School]
[Photo Caption:]
Japanese Language School
Operating as early as 1903.
Status: No longer standing.
In 1955, St. Williams Catholic Church was built on the original site of the Shingon Temple and Language School. This was made possible due to a land trade between the Catholic Church and Gaylord Parke Wilcox, the son of Emma Washburn Lyman and Samuel Whitney Wilcox, the fifth son of missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox.
The former Japanese Language School building was moved to a lot on the shoreline of Hanalei Bay, where the former Sloggett Beach House once stood, and became part of the Sasaki home complex. [dccxliii]
The church bell now suspended between two poles in front of St. Williams is the bell from the former Catholic Chapel that was built near the Hanalei rivermouth in 1864 (see Part 3).
[Photograph: St. Williams Catholic Church]
[Photo caption:]
St. Williams Catholic Church
Built: 1955.
Chock Chin
Chock Chin was a prominent Chinese rice farmer and store owner in Hanalei. The father of twelve children from three different wives, Chock Chin built a home on leased land on the mountain side of the Government Road (Route 560) near the current site of Wai‘oli Park.[dccxliv]
Across the street from the Chock Chin Residence was the Chock Chin Store, established in 1901.[dccxlv] The site included a bakery, restaurant, butcher shop, tailor, blacksmith, and saloon, as well as a general store.
The whole Chock Chin family worked at the family business. Mr. Chock Chin managed the store and was the baker. His wife Chun Shee (Mrs. Chock Chin) was the cook. The children worked the cash register and delivered bills. One of the sons had the job of “driving the freight wagon pulled by two white mules.”[dccxlvi] Chock Chin also engaged in various other entrepreneurial activities, including selling small dishes of ice cream at the Kīlauea Ballpark.
Chock Chin’s bakery sold bread with guava jelly for ten cents a loaf, and it was a favorite lunch item of local children who walked to the store from nearby Hanalei School. Chock Chin also raised “papayas, mango, avocado and loquat, mulberry, bananas, cows, chickens and pigs. There was a garden for sweet potato, corn, sugar cane and string beans and also a grove of bamboo.”[dccxlvii]
The name of the Chock Chin Store was later changed to C. Akeoni, Lau Store and then Hanalei Store in 1931 after Chock Chin died and Mrs. Chock Chin sold the store to Charles Lau, a rice farmer who later farmed taro. The Hanalei Store remained open as a restaurant, meat market, and general store until 1941.[dccxlviii]
Chock Chin dug a lotus pond (now called The Lily Pond) alongside the main road in Hanalei town where it may still be seen today. A freshwater spring replenished the pond, which Chock Chin stocked with edible lotus roots and fish.[dccxlix] The lotus plants failed to grow, and later Mrs. Chock Chin planted water lilies in the pond. Later the Tasakas planted lilies in the pond and stocked it with carp. Unfortunately the fish were washed away by the 1946 tsunami.[dccl]
[Photograph: Lily Pond and Tasaka Residence]
[Photo Caption:]
The Lily Pond and the Tasaka Residence & Saimin
The Lily Pond was dug by Chinese rice farmer Chock Chin. The Lily Pond House and the Tasaka Residence are Private Residences—Please Do Not Go On Property.
[Sidebar:]
[Photograph: Kenichi Tasaka]
[Photo caption:]
Kenichi Tasaka
Kenichi Tasaka was born in 1896, the second of eight children of Chinjiro and Kiyo Tasaka. Chinjiro worked at Kīlauea Sugar Plantation before leasing land near Pu‘upōā Marsh (Kamo‘omaika‘i Fishpond), where he farmed rice for nearly two decades.
As a child Kenichi helped his father on the rice farm, worked for the Birkmyres, Deverills, and Sanborns, painted cars in Honolulu, worked as a mechanic for the Kilauea Sugar Plantation, painted houses, and worked for the County of Kaua‘i Water Works Division.[dccli]
In 1927, Kenichi married Asayo Kodama and they had four children. Around 1940, the Tasakas built a home next to Wai‘oli Park and began farming rice nearby. Kenichi eventually took over his father’s rice farm at Wai‘oli, and then later farmed taro, as did his brother Bobby Tasaka. During World War II the two front rooms of Kenichi and Asayo Tasaka’s home was used as a store and saimin stand.[dcclii]
“Kenichi Tasaka became a well-known grass slipper maker in his later years. He made them from rushes growing in the swamps. He lived to a ripe old age of one hundred.”
Frank Kurihara[dccliii]
The Lily Pond House is a small, two-story structure that was originally located on the shoreline of Hanalei Bay[dccliv] where it was used as a caretaker’s quarters for the manager of Kaua‘i Electric.[dcclv] The house was later moved on coconut palm rollers to its current site next to Wai‘oli Park.[dcclvi]
[Photograph: Lily Pond House]
[Photo Caption:]
Lily Pond House
Built: 1933.
Private Residence—Please Do Not Go On Property.
The Hanalei Post Office
The location of the Hanalei Post Office changed many times over the years depending upon who was postmaster or postmistress. It was “a peripatetic institution, its changing location primarily determined by who ran the post office.”[dcclvii]
Serving as postmaster from 1846 to 1856 was Captain John Kellett, who was also Hanalei’s Pilot of the Port and customs collector. Succeeding Kellett as postmaster was Wai‘oli missionary Abner Wilcox, who served at the post until 1863.
Other early postmasters of the Hanalei region included “Capt. A. White (1865-1866), Judge H. J. Wana (acting PM from September, 1867 to 1870), Wm. Kellett (1870-?, with Rev. Wilcox, Capt. John Ross (1870?-1876), A Conradt (1876-1878), C. Koelling (1878-1883), Jas. M. Gibson (1883-1885), J. C. Long (1885-1889), C. Koelling (1889-1892), J. M. Radway (1892-1893), A. B. Scrimgeour (1893) and C. H. Willis (1894-1900).”[1] Many of these individuals were associated with the Princeville Plantation.[dcclviii]
In the late 1800s, the Hanalei Post Office was located along the former road down into Hanalei Valley. The steep, winding route had three switchbacking S-curves going down the hill and passing the Princeville Plantation House (Kikiula), and a succession of Princeville Plantation managers served as postmasters.[dcclix]
The post office was eventually moved down the hill to the small, busy factory village that grew up on the east bank of the Hanalei River around the site of the Hanalei Sugar Mill, which began operating in 1862 just downriver from the current site of the Hanalei Bridge (built in 1912).[dcclx]
During the 1870s, mail came to Hanalei by schooner from Honolulu, and irregular weekly steamer service and overland mail were also provided. From the Hanalei post office, carriers brought mail to Lumaha‘i, Wainiha, Hā‘ena, and Kalalau. The Kalalau carrier “wrapped mail in banana leaves to keep it from getting soaked.”[dcclxi]
Around the turn of the century, the Hanalei Post Office was located near Hanalei town at the site of the Hanalei Hotel, also known as the Deverill House, where Sarah Deverill served as the postmistress. In 1915, the Hanalei Post Office was located on the land of Sheriff James K. Lota on Weke Road, across the street from the home of Charlie Forward.[dcclxii] The gravestone of James Lota (1873-1937) is located alongside Wai‘oli Mission Hall (the old Wai‘oli Church). In the 1920s, the post office was located on the mountain side (mauka) of the Government Road at Mahi Mahi Road.
Sometime around World War II, when the postmistress was Julia Lota (Sheriff James Lota’s sister, who later became Julia Rodriques), the post office was moved to a location near the current Aloha School, on the seaward side of the Government Road (Route 560),[dcclxiii] where the old post office boxes may still be seen today.
In the 1950s the Hanalei post office was relocated to Ching Young Store. In 1975, the current Hanalei Post Office was built next to the Ching Young Village Shopping Center on the land of postmistress Clorinda Nakashima.
[Photograph: Old Hanalei Post Office Boxes]
[Photo Caption:]
Old Hanalei Post Office Boxes
Status: Boxes still standing alongside Route 560.
At the western end of town near Wai‘oli Church were the Masada and Tadao Nakatsuji families,[dcclxiv] and on the seaward side of the road was the District Courthouse and Jail. Behind the Courthouse was the home of Judge Aarona. The jail was always empty, according to Frank Kurihara, “as there was no crime to speak of in those days.”[dcclxv]
Still standing across the street from the Courthouse is the 1912 Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church as well as the old Wai‘oli Church, which was built in 1841 and is now called Mission Hall. Back behind the trees is the old Wai‘oli Mission House, built from 1834 to 1837 (see Part 2). West of the mission area is Hanalei School, which originated as part of the missionary station founded at Wai‘oli in 1834 to prepare native children to become teachers in Kaua‘i’s common schools (see Part 2). Students were initially taught in the Hawaiian language with the goal of allowing the natives to read the Bible, which was translated into Hawaiian by the missionaries. (The first complete translation of the Bible into the Hawaiian language was completed on May 10, 1839. Entitled Ka Palapala Hemolele, the Bible was published in three volumes, totaling 2,331 pages.)
Initially the school at Wai‘oli also offered vocational training as well as training for teachers who went on to teach at other schools on Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau.[dcclxvi] In 1862, Hanalei’s first English School was established by Louise Johnson with financial support provided by the Hawaiian Government. In 1881, the Hanalei English School formally became a government school (public school). Enrollment at Hanalei School in 1904 was 48 boys and 48 girls, and the teachers were Florence and Lena Deverill.[dcclxvii] The school’s principal in 1914, according to the Polk-Husted Directory, was Mrs. S. A. Cliffe.[dcclxviii]
A new Hanalei School Building was constructed by the Territory of Hawai‘i in 1926, and the Old Hanalei School Building was later moved to the center of Hanalei Town near the Aku Road intersection with Route 560. The restored schoolhouse building is now home to several businesses including the Hanalei Surf Company, Gourmet Restaurant, and some small art and clothing shops. A new Hanalei School was built very near its former location.
Enrollment at Hanalei School in the 1900s ranged between about 50 and 120 students until about 1970. Today enrollment is about 300 students.[dcclxix]
[Photograph: Hanalei School]
[Photograph: Old Hanalei School Building]
[Photo Caption:]
Old Hanalei School Building
Built in 1926.
Current Use: Commercial Center—Stores, Restaurant.
National and State Registers of Historic Places: 1990.
Just east of the Wai‘oli Bridge once stood the Nakatsuji Rice Mill (formerly Hop Chong Wai Rice Mill), managed by Ah Hoy and located just east of the Wai‘oli Bridge. Across from the Nakatsuji Rice Mill lived retired Kealia Plantation manager Charlie McKee.[dcclxx] Some families in this area in the early to mid-1900s were the Wong, Hashimoto, Kobayashi, Hiramoto, Koga, Morimoto, and Zaima families, as well as the Azeka and Matsuda farms.[dcclxxi]
Another rice mill of the Hanalei region in the early 1900s was the Hiramoto Rice Mill (formerly Hee Fat Rice Mill), located at Waipā. Chinese rice farmer Hee Fat was among the largest of Kaua‘i’s rice farmers, cultivating about 600 acres of rice in Hanalei and Kapa‘a.[dcclxxii] At the far end of the coastal plain in the ahupua‘a of Waikoko was theChock Chin Rice Mill.
Weke Road and Beach Houses of Hanalei
Weke Road was a dirt road until the early 1920s when rock was quarried from the eastern side of the Hanalei rivermouth. Mules brought the rock over a floating bridge constructed across the Hanalei River and held by cables. The rock was then crushed near the pier and then used to pave Weke Road.
Mahi Mahi Road is located about ½-mile from Hanalei Pier, and was also paved around 1920. Mahi Mahi Road provides access from Route 560 (formerly known as the Government Road) to Weke Road and the beaches of Hanalei. Frank Kurihara recalled some of the “beachfront families” of the early to mid-1900s, including the Birkmyre, Conant, Gardner, Lota, Morishige, Nakamura, Kealoha, Kai, Pa, Kuehu, Nakea, and Pauole families.[dcclxxiii]
[Photograph: Hukilau in Hanalei Bay]
[Photo Caption:]
“Few foreign craft entered the wide bay which had been first surveyed, and that under difficulties of contrary winds, by Captain George Vancouver in 1794. During winter months tumultuous northerly gales often gather up ocean swells and sweep them into the confines of the bay itself where relentless undercurrents suck them out to sea again. During summer months, to this day, the kilo watches the sea from a height, and catching sight of ripples and shadows betokening a school of fish, hastens word to waiting fishermen on the beach who row out beyond the speeding fish and drop their long net around them, then, often up to their necks in the sea, and strung out along both sides of the net back to the shore, all stand ready for the hukilau, the hauling in of loaded net, sparkling with the silver flash of leaping fish”
Ethel Damon[dcclxxiv]
[Photograph: Black Pot Beach Park]
Black Pot Beach Park and the Hukilau
Black Pot Beach Park is located between Hanalei Pier and the Hanalei rivermouth. The name of the park hearkens to the big black pot that was used to boil the day’s catch of fish, which was shared among everyone. The tradition of the hukilau involved a group of people working together to entrap fish using a seine net.[dcclxxv]
During the mid-1900s the tradition of the hukilau was still commonly practiced in Hanalei Bay. A kilo (spotter) stood atop a high spot overlooking the bay waters and used hand signals to tell the konohiki, or local leader, where the school of fish was located. Fishermen in the water then surrounded the school of fish with a net and pulled it toward shore. The co-operative effort of spotting, netting, and gathering the fish brought the community together, and they all shared in the catch.
One konohiki was Alfred ‘Alohikea, the Hawaiian composer of the well-known song Hanohano Hanalei and many other popular local songs.
Hanohano Hanalei
Hanohano Hanalei i ka ua nui
E pakika kahi limu o Manu‘akepa
I laila ho‘i au i ‘ike iho ai
I ka hana hu‘i konikoni i ka ‘ili
Aloha kahi one o pua rose
I ka ho‘ope ‘ia e ka hunakai
‘Akāhi hoi au a ‘ike i ka nani
Hanohano Hanalei i ka ua nui.
Translation
The glory of Hanalei is its heavy rain,
[And its] slippery seaweed of Manu‘akepa
There I felt
A cool, tingling sensation on my skin
Greetings to the sand and the roses
Drenched by the sea spray
Never have I seen such splendor
The glory of Hanalei is its heavy rain.
Song by Alfred ‘Alohikea
Elbert and Mahoe, 1970[dcclxxvi]
Frank Kurihara remembered ‘Alohikea as “a big man with a sunny disposition, and a smile for all the young ladies,” noting that, “the songs he composed are still sung at all the Hawaiian get-togethers.”[dcclxxvii]
[Photograph: Lumaha‘i Beach and Valley]
Lumaha‘i Hula [Translation by Kimo Alama.]
“Grand is Hanalei in the pouring rain,
Slippery is the limu of Manu‘akepa.
Swim in the waters of Lumaha‘i,
The misty-faced lehua of Lulu‘upali.
Heated is Hā‘ena in the sea spray,
What does Lohi‘au, the lover do?
The story is told,
Slippery is the limu of Manu‘akepa.”
From a chant to Queen Kapi‘olani entitled Hanohano Hanalei.
Alfred ‘Alohikea wrote the melody.[dcclxxviii]
The original Hawaiian language version of Lumaha‘i Hula:
“Hanohano Hanalei i ka ua nui
He pakika i ka limu o Manu‘akepa.
‘Au‘au i ka wai o Lumaha‘i
Ka lehua maka noe o Lulu‘upali.
‘E‘ena Hā‘ena i ka ‘ehu kai
A he aha la o ka hana o Lohi‘au ipo.
Ha‘ina ‘ia mai ana ka puana
He pakika i ka limu o Manu‘akepa.”[dcclxxix]
Note: According to Lumaha‘i Hula. Kimo Alama, Keaulana Collection, Bishop Museum Archives MS GRP 329 Box 5.37: “The limu...is a slippery grass referred to as “ka limu ka kaha kanaka o Manu‘akepa” or “the man throwing moss at Manu‘akepa.”] “Hā‘ena” means “red hot” and alludes to the passion of Lohi‘au, Pele’s legendary lover. Lohi‘au came from Hā‘ena that is also famous for its sea spray (said to cool down the passion that’s so hot);” “The limu...is a slippery grass referred to as “ka limu ka kaha kanaka o Manu‘akepa” or “the man throwing moss at Manu‘akepa.”
The renowned host at Black Pot Park in the 1950s and 1960s was local fisherman Kalani Tai Hook.[dcclxxx]Today his daughter Cathy Ham Young is a prominent and beloved local resident of the Hanalei region along with many other Tai Hook descendants.
Two frequently caught species during the hukilau were akule (bigeye scad) and ‘opelu (mackerel scad). “In akule, or halalu,[dcclxxxi] or ‘opelu season,” recalled Frank Kurihara, “the fish came into the bays by the hordes to spawn.”[dcclxxxii]
Many Hawaiian fishermen observed certain rituals and practices, including maintaining kū‘ula (stone-carved gods used to attract fish) with offerings of mai‘a (banana plant) or the root of ‘awa (kava). Also said to help was “clean living.” A Japanese fishing temple was located along the riverbank below the “pine tree road” that led up to the Birkmyre home, which was seen in the 1957 movie South Pacific.
Another “fishing temple” was located on the opposite side of the Hanalei River just up from the former site of the Catholic Church. Local fishermen often visited the shrines and also held annual celebrations attended by friends and family.[dcclxxxiii]
As the Hanalei region moved into the 20th century, prominent individuals and families—including the Sanborn, Fayé, and Wilcox families—constructed second homes along Weke Road on the shoreline of Hanalei Bay. Several of these beach homes still stand today as reminders of Hanalei’s storied past. Some of these historic structures are detailed below, beginning at the eastern end of Weke Road.
[Photograph: Kauikeōlani—Albert Spencer Wilcox Beach House]
[Photo Caption:]
Kauikeōlani—Albert Spencer Wilcox Beach House
Built: 1899
State Register of Historic Places: 1987.
National Register of Historic Places: 1993.
Albert Spencer Wilcox (1844-1919) built the main house of his estate Kauikeōlani on Hanalei Bay in 1899. The son of pioneering missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox, Albert lived in the house with his wife Emma Kauikeōlani Napoleon Mahelona, who was the widow of Samuel Mahelona.
Albert and Emma named their Hanalei home after Emma’s namesake, Kauikeōlani, which means “Beautiful vision in the morning mist,”[dcclxxxiv] and is also translated as “Place in the skies [of] heaven.”[dcclxxxv]
Albert Wilcox had purchased an interest in the Princeville Plantation in 1892, and he secured complete ownership by 1899. He sold the Princeville lands in June of 1916, but maintained ownership of Kauikeōlani as well as “the old Mission Home, and some kuleanas along the beach.”[dcclxxxvi] Albert had grown up in the Wai‘oli Mission House, and in 1912 he led the effort to build Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church in honor of his parents.
Kauikeōlani is also known as the Albert Spencer Wilcox Beach House. Kauikeōlani was originally comprised of three bedrooms but has grown in size over the years. The home is now divided into seven bedrooms and six baths, and serves as a vacation rental that is often used for weddings and other occasions.
The outside of the historic beach home is covered with sand, a technique that was used at the time to provide termite protection. A twelve-foot wide verandah wraps around part of the home.
Kauikeōlani Estate is currently owned by Patsy Wilcox Sheehan [Alice Patricia Kuaihelani Wilcox Sheehan], the great great granddaughter of Abner and Lucy Wilcox. Today the central parlor portion of Kauikeōlani remains somewhat of a living museum.
[Photograph: Kanoa Pond]
[Photo caption:]
Historic Kanoa Pond is located on the western side of Hanalei River near the rivermouth, on the property of the Albert Spencer Wilcox House. The pond once covered about ten acres, and in the mid-1800s it was owned by agricultural entrepreneur Charles Titcomb who sold it to Princeville Plantation owner R. C. Wyllie in 1863.[dcclxxxvii]
Helen Sanborn Davis, who grew up in Hanalei in the early 1900s, recalled that the pond “was stocked with fish and Samoan crabs for the dining table.”[dcclxxxviii] Kanoa Pond was also a lilypond where locals caught bass and blue gill.
[Photograph: Kamo‘omaika‘i Fishpond]
[Photo caption:]
Kamo‘omaika‘i Fishpond, also known as Pu‘upōā Marsh, was located on the east side of the Hanalei River near the rivermouth, near where the Princeville Hotel is now located. The historic fishpond dates to ancient times, and was placed on the National and State Register of Historic Places in 1982.
[Photograph: Old Hanalei Pavilion]
[Photo Caption:]
Old Hanalei Pavilion
Original wooden building was destroyed by the 1957 tsunami.
A new Hanalei Pavilion was constructed in 1960 using concrete and hollow tiles.
The Sanborn Beach House, which still stands today, was built in 1910 on the shoreline of Hanalei Bay. Thatched homes of native Hawaiians had been located along Hanalei Bay for many centuries before Western contact, but the Sanborn house was the first Hanalei shoreline home built using Western-style materials, and thus is often called Hanalei’s first “beach house.”
Numerous other Western-style homes were built along Hanalei Bay in the early 1900s, but most were later torn down due to damage caused by tsunamis, hurricanes, and the general aging of time. The Sanborn Beach House remains as one of the last of the old beach homes of Hanalei. Built in the plantation style, the Sanborn home features a hip roof and wide window frames, single wall board and batten architecture, and trim balustrade posts.
[Photograph: Sanborn Beach House]
[Photo Caption:]
Sanborn Beach House
Built: 1910.
Architect/Builder: Walter Foss Sanborn.
Architecture: Craftsman/Plantation Style.
Walter Foss Sanborn first came to Kaua‘i in 1901, serving as the U.S. District Commissioner for Kauai and Federal Court Representative, and working for McBryde Sugar Company.[dcclxxxix] Sanborn was later hired as the manager of Princeville Ranch and remained in the position until 1927, initially working for Princeville Ranch owner Albert Spencer Wilcox and then for the new owners, the Līhu‘e Plantation.
After becoming manager of the Princeville Ranch, Sanborn lived in the Princeville Ranch House, which the Sanborn family referred to as the “Mauka House” because the Princeville Plantation House was mauka (toward the mountains) from the Sanborn’s beach house on Hanalei Bay.[dccxc]
Walter Foss Sanborn lived in the Princeville Ranch House with his wife, Lena Deverill Sanborn, who had been raised on Kaua‘i. In 1907, Walter Foss Sanborn and Lena Deverill Sanborn gave birth to a girl, Helen, and then later to three boys: Walter F. Jr., Percy, and John (Jack). During this time the Sanborns lived primarily at the Princeville Ranch House, which served as the center of operations for the large Princeville cattle ranch.
When Helen was ten years old she began attending Punahou School on O‘ahu. Her brothers were sent to the Honolulu Military Academy at Kaimukī, which later became the Punahou Farm School.
When a tsunami struck Kaua‘i’s north shore in 1957, it moved the Sanborn home about ten feet off its foundation.[dccxci] Walter and Lena’s daughter Helen (later Helen Sanborn Davis Hibbard), credited an avocado tree for halting the movement of the house, which suffered only minor structural damage and was simply re-posted in its new location.[dccxcii]
Jack Sanborn, one of the three sons of Walter Foss Sanborn, died in 1970, leaving the house and one acre of property to his three sons: Pete, Alan, and Bill. In 1972, the beachfront property was divided into three sections. At this time a wing of the house (a master bedroom) on the western side off the kitchen was removed and relocated across Weke Road for use as a two-bedroom house, known as the Reed House, which became part of the Sanborn Poi Mill run by Walter Foss Sanborn.
A porch was later added on the side of the structure that had formerly been joined to the Sanborn house, and later there were other additions. Where a wing of the Sanborn beach house had been removed, a breakfast room was added.
The poi mill operated until the mid 1950s[dccxciii] when it was taken over by new owners who eventually abandoned their effort after buyers fell behind in payments. The poi mill’s new owners were Kenichi Tasaka, Harold Kobayashi, and Michi Fukuda.[dccxciv]
“The Hanalei District of Kauai is not going to be the same without Walter Foss Sanborn. His tall, active figure, still erect in his late seventies, his shock of unruly hair, now snowy, his twinkling eyes and an assumption of gruffness that they belied, had been familiar to the district since he came there some 55 years ago to manage the late Albert S. Wilcox’s plantation. Now in retirement, he made his home in a rambling shoreside dwelling, surrounded by broad, carefully tended lawns and gardens, within reach of the village social center. Outspoken always, Walter Sanborn sometimes antagonized associates who could not believe that anyone could pull so many facts out of his mind without grievous error. Yet that was what he did, and differences of opinion were swept away before an avalanche of facts. Behind his gruff exterior was a soft heart, as every child knew instinctively. He was a sucker for kids.”
Honolulu Advertiser Editorial[dccxcv]
Just west of the Sanborn house on Weke Road is the Fayé Beach House, built in 1915 by Hans Peter Fayé, nephew of sugar planter Valdemar “Kanuka” Knudsen. The two-story wood-framed Hanalei structure was built by Fayé as a vacation home. A second story is set into the steeply-pitched gable roof. The structure was damaged by the 1957 tsunami and required repairs.
Hans Peter Fayé was born in Norway and moved to Hawai‘i in 1880. He later developed sugar plantations on western Kaua‘i, harvesting his first crop in 1886 with the help of Chinese laborers provided by Leong Pah On, who was known as Kaua‘i’s “Rice King.”[dccxcvi]
In 1893, H. P. Fayé married Margaret Lindsey at Moloa‘a, and they had eight children. Fayé’s Mana Sugar Company merged with Kekaha Sugar Company in 1898, and Fayé managed the operation for the next three decades. H. P. Fayé’s son Lindsay later managed Kekaha Sugar Company. Another son, Alan Fayé, managed the Waimea Sugar Company, a plantation that was run by the Fayé family. Remnants of the sugar mill can be seen today in Waimea town.
[Photograph: Fayé Beach House]
[Photo Caption:]
Fayé Beach House
Built: 1915.
Just up from the Fayé Beach House in Hanalei, on the other side of Weke Road, is the former Princeville Ranch Manager’s House. The home was built under the direction of Fred Conant, who became manager of the Princeville Plantation in 1927. Later the home became the residence of Larry and Jeanie Ching. The home is a private residence—please do not go on the property.
[Photograph: Bounty House]
[Photo Caption:]
The Bounty House
In 1914, Charles, Elsie, and Mabel Wilcox and their parents Samuel and Emma Wilcox, along with Ethel Damon, bought five adjoining beachfront lots in Hanalei at an auction. Mabel Wilcox and her brother then planned the house named Mahamoku, which means “Island of peace.”[dccxcvii]
Mabel Wilcox may have worked with Honolulu architect Clinton B. Ripley in creating the design and building specifications of Mahamoku, since the Wilcox family was working with him closely at the time in designing an addition to the Grove Farm plantation house in Līhu‘e. Ripley was later chosen by Mabel to design the Mahelona Hospital in Kapa‘a.[dccxcviii]
Mahamoku is a 1½-story, L-shaped, wood-framed house built by Sam Itchioka between September and November of 1914.[dccxcix] During construction, Samuel Wilcox and three of his children, Charles, Elsie, and Mabel frequently visited the site and occasionally suggested changes to the house plans. For more than two weeks of September, storms prevented the Wilcoxes from reaching the north shore as “heavy rains...washed out all [the] bridges between Lihue and Hanalei.”[dccc]
Mahamoku’s board and batten walls are utilize vertical redwood boards in double wall construction. The home’s high-pitched, gable roof creates an interior loft area, and the home’s interior is described as “barn-like” with “darkness contributing to the atmosphere of rest and comfort at the edge of the ocean and with bright, breathtaking scenic views of Hanalei on all sides.”[dccci]
Cantilevered loft balconies extend from each end of the home and are covered by overhanging eaves. A series of windows in the central living area allow tradewind breezes to cool the house. Itchioka took it upon himself to add a three-window dormer on the ocean side of Mahamoku. The dormer was strongly disapproved of by Mabel Wilcox, yet it was not changed.
[Photograph: Mahamoku]
[Photo Caption:]
Mahamoku—Mabel and Charles Wilcox House
Built: 1914.
Designer: Mabel Isabel Wilcox.
Builder: Sam Itchioka
Style: American Arts and Crafts (Variation of Bungalow Style).
Part 5
Hanalei Today—Art and Nature (1950—2006)
Hollywood Comes to Hanalei
Perhaps the most influential factor in bringing Hanalei before the eyes of the world and ushering in a new era of tourism was the region’s use as a setting for motion pictures. This began in the 1950s, and since that time many major movies have been filmed on Kaua‘i and in the Hanalei area. The island continues to draw filmmakers from around the world, popularizing the once remote northern shore.
The following movies include scenes filmed in the Hanalei area: Pagan Love Song (1950); Bird of Paradise (1950);Miss Sadie Thompson (1953); Beachhead (1953); Naked Paradise/Thunder Over Hawaii (1956); South Pacific (1957); She Gods of Shark Reef (1958); Wackiest Ship in the Army (1960); Paradise Hawaiian Style (1964); Acapulco Gold (1976);Seven (1978); Behold Hawai‘i (1981); Uncommon Valor (1983); and Dragonfly (2002).
The first major movie to be filmed totally on Kaua‘i was Pagan Love Song (1950), a Technicolor musical in which Kaua‘i represented Tahiti, with some scenes filmed in Hanalei. Pagan Love Song is based on the William S. Stone novelTahiti Landfall, and named after a 1929 song by Nacio Herb Brown and Arthur Freed.
The plot involves a half-American, half-Tahitian girl, Mimi Bennett, played by a well-tanned and black-wigged Esther Williams. Mimi is ready to leave Tahiti, but stays when she meets an Ohio schoolteacher (Howard Keel as Hazard Endicott), who inherited a dilapidated coconut plantation. Hazard falls for her, unaware that she is not a native girl but instead is a sophisticated visitor on vacation.
The location filming of Pagan Love Song was part of a newly developing trend of bringing authentic scenery to the screen for the millions of GI’s returning from World War II. Highlights of the movie include Esther Williams’ water ballet.
[Photograph: Pagan Love Song]
The 1951 film Bird of Paradise was filmed on Kaua‘i and features scenes of Hanalei Bay. A Technicolor Polynesian epic, Bird of Paradise was based on a popular 1932 film starring Joel McCrea and Dolores Del Rio, and a 1911 stage play. Louis Jordan plays a French sailor visiting the South Seas with his friend, played by Jeff Chandler.
The plot involves a Frenchman who comes to the South Pacific seeking peace and tranquility. He falls in love with a local girl (Debra Paget) who must offer herself to the volcano god as a sacrifice to prevent an eruption from destroying the people and their homes.
Falling for the island girl leads the Frenchman to deal with the serious consequences of breaking local taboos as the girl is subject to becoming a human sacrifice to the volcano. Highlights include hundreds of Hawaiian dancers, and a memorable landing of a Polynesian voyaging canoe near Hanalei Pier.
[Photograph: Bird of Paradise]
Rita Hayworth starred in the 1953 film Miss Sadie Thompson about a nightclub singer with a storied past who travels to New Caledonia (Kaua‘i, with scenes in Hanalei), and encounters some tough U.S. Marines.
Miss Sadie Thompson (1953) was a remake of the 1928 film Sadie Thompson starring Gloria Swanson, and the 1932 film Rain starring Joan Crawford. José Ferrer plays the pious preacher Arthur Davidson who tries to save the soul of Miss Thompson but instead loses his own. The film co-stars Aldo Ray, who plays a marine sergeant attracted to Sadie.
[Photograph: Miss Sadie Thompson]
Scenes in Beachhead (1954) were filmed at Hanalei Pier in 1953. The plot involves a courageous unit of U.S. Marines before a massive U.S. assault. Kaua‘i represents a dense jungle island taken over by the Japanese.[dcccii] The marines search for a planter on Bougainville who has information about a minefield and the planter’s beautiful daughter.
All but one of the U.S. Marines are killed in an ambush and then the planter and his daughter, along with the Marine, journey toward safety. The movie stars a young Tony Curtis as well as Frank Lovejoy and Mary Murphy.
[Photograph: Beachhead]
Naked Paradise/Thunder Over Hawaii (1957) was filmed on Kaua‘i in 1956, including scenes at Hanalei Bay.[dccciii] The movie’s plot involves three modern-day pirates (New York hoods) who sail a yacht around the Islands and rob plantation owners. The owner of their getaway vessel, a local schooner, is Duke (Richard Denning), who later played the Governor on the Hawaii Five-O television series.[dccciv]
Zac (Leslie Bradley) is a criminal gang leader who claims he is a toy manufacturer but secretly attempts to steal the plantation payroll, while Zac’s mistress Max (Beverly Garland) claims to be his secretary. A hurricane leads to confrontation between Zac and Duke.
[Photograph: Naked Paradise]
Filming of South Pacific (1958), one of the biggest box office successes of the 1950s, began in August of 1957 in Hanalei and Hā‘ena, representing French New Caledonia.[dcccv] Filming was disrupted by a major tsunami that hit Kaua‘i’s north shore on March 9, 1957, knocking out the old Kalihiwai bridge and blocking trucks bringing heavy filming equipment to the movie sets.
South Pacific takes place during World War II and involves WAVE officer Nellie Forbush (played by Mitzi Gaynor) who falls in love with the wealthy Frenchman Emile De Becque (Rossano Brazzi), whose assistance is requested by the Navy for a dangerous reconnaissance mission. De Becque had earlier fled his hometown after killing a man, and refuses to help the U.S. Navy.
Nellie declines De Becque’s proposal of marriage due to her prejudice after she learns of his mixed-race children by his first wife, causing De Becque to accept the Navy’s request to go on the dangerous mission. Accompanying him on the mission is Lt. Joseph Cable (John Kerr), who also displays prejudice when he rejects the possibility of marrying Liat (France Nuyen), the daughter of Tokinese trader Bloody Mary (Juanita Hall). During their mission, Cable is killed, and De Becque is apparently lost, leading Nellie to hope and pray for his safe return, and forcing her to see the error of her prejudiced attitudes. A comedic element in the film is provided by Luther Billis, played by Ray Walston.[dcccvi]
Opening scenes of South Pacific were filmed near the mouth of the Hanalei River, and the elegant Birkmyre Estate overlooking Hanalei Bay was used as the French planter’s home.[dcccvii] Numerous other Hanalei scenes are shown throughout the movie.
Mitzi Gaynor’s famous rendition of Wash That Man Right Out of My Hair was filmed at nearby Lumaha‘i Beach, while Makana Mountain in Hā‘ena was the mystical island of Bali Hai. There was also a great deal of footage from Mākua (Tunnels) Beach to the west of Hanalei, and hundreds of local schoolchildren and other Kaua‘i residents were utilized as extras.[dcccviii]
[Photograph: South Pacific]
She Gods of Shark Reef (1958) was filmed at Hanalei and Hā‘ena sites representing a tropical paradise ruled by a stone god. The plot involves two American brothers who are escaped convicts that become shipwrecked on a tropical island inhabited by lovely and exotic, pearl-diving women.
The beautiful maidens enact various rituals, and one of the women is chosen to be sacrificed to the sharks. Fortunately she is saved by one of the Americans who is in love with her, and they flee to civilization. The other brother, however, isn’t so lucky, falling prey to the sharks when he attempts to steal pearls. Starring in the fantasy film are Lisa Montell, Don Durant, and Bill Cord.
[Photograph: She Gods of Shark Reef]
In Wackiest Ship in the Army (1961), Kaua‘i represents a South Pacific island held by Japan during WWII, and Hanalei Bay is the site of a New Guinea Allied base.[dcccix] Jack Lemmon portrays Lieutenant Rip Crandall, captain of the U.S.S. Echo. Crandall is in charge of a crew of misfit sailors, one of whom is played by Ricky Nelson. Their mission is to transport an Australian spy into enemy territory so he can spy on the Japanese.
During filming in 1960, vintage army transports were driven to Hanalei by National Guardsmen, who played Japanese and Allied soldiers in the movie. The filming barge at Hanalei twice came loose, damaging Hanalei Pier, which required repairs that were paid for by the film studio and barge company.
[Photograph: Wackiest Ship in the Army]
Elvis Presley’s Paradise Hawaiian Style (1965) includes scenes filmed at Princeville Airport as well as Līhu‘e airport.[dcccx] The plot involves Rick Richards (Elvis Presley), who runs a tour aircraft business in the Hawaiian Islands. Richards is grounded after a mishap in which his helicopter runs a car off the road, a car driven by federal aviation official Donald Beldon (John Doucette). Richards gets into trouble due to his affection for different women, including a secretary played by Suzanna Leigh.
[Photograph: Paradise Hawaiian Style]
Acapulco Gold (1978) includes scenes filmed in the Hanalei area in 1976. The film tells the story of drug smugglers who hijack yachts and smuggle their illegal substances offshore. A chase ensues onshore and the criminals are brought to justice. The film stars Robert Lansing, Marjoe Gortner, and Ed Nelson.
[Photograph: Acapulco Gold]
Seven (1979) is a low-budget adventure film that includes scenes filmed in the Hanalei area in 1978. The move is a tongue-in-cheek comedy that centers around seven men hired by the Federal government to kill some professional criminals and stop a crime syndicate whose members are talented in the martial arts. A $7 million reward is at stake. William Smith plays the head of the U.S. intelligence team in Hawai‘i, and Christopher Joy and Ed Parker also star in the movie.
[Photograph: Seven]
Scenes in Behold Hawaii (1983) were filmed in 1981 in Hanalei town with footage of the traditional Polynesian voyaging canoe Hōkūle‘a sailing off of Hanalei Bay. The plot involves Hawaiian youths rediscovering their heritage and their ancestors’ spiritual beliefs.
Behold Hawaii was the first feature film done in the IMAX format and shown on a five-story tall screen.[dcccxi]The cast included Kanani Velasco, Blaine Kia, and Kimo Kahoano.
[Photograph: Behold Hawaii]
In 1983, Hanalei’s scenic taro patches became Vietnamese rice paddies in the film Uncommon Valor (1983). Twelve separate sets on Kaua‘i represented locations in Southeast Asia, and Hanalei Valley was the site of the film’s daring rescue of G.I.’s from the Viet Cong.
The plot of Uncommon Valor involves Vietnam Veteran Colonel Rhodes (Gene Hackman) who returns to Laos after the war to rescue his G.I. son, who is being held as a prisoner of war, since 1972, in a Laotian prison camp. Helping Colonel Rhodes is oil baron MacGregor (Robert Stack) who funds the operation.
The controversial content of Uncommon Valor precluded use of military helicopters, so the filmmakers spent $1 million to rent two Vietnam-era Huey helicopters and ship them to the Islands for the for the rescue scene in Hanalei Valley. Patrick Swayze, Randall “Tex” Cobb, and Robert Stack also starred in the movie.
[Photograph: Uncommon Valor]
In Dragonfly (2002), Princeville Airport represents a remote Venezuelan airport, and other scenes were filmed over the nearby mountains and elsewhere on Kaua‘i. Kevin Costner portrays emergency room doctor Joe Darrow, the husband of pediatric oncologist Emily Darrow (Susanna Thompson), who is doing humanitarian work in the Venezuelan mountains when she dies in a bus crash due to a mud and rock slide.
After Emily’s death, Joe begins to see mysterious signs (including dragonflies) as well as more specific messages communicated through Emily’s former patients. The mysterious messages lead Dr. Darrow to travel to Venezuela, where he makes an amazing discovery (revealed in footnote).[dcccxii]
Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge
Most of the taro patches in Hanalei Valley are on land that is part of the 917-acre Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, designated in 1972 to help protect the endangered native waterbirds and other wildlife that inhabits the region. The Refuge is located just east of the town of Hanalei, and extends from the Hanalei Bridge up into Hanalei Valley and along the coastal plain. The Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge is located from 22-12-00 to 22-14-30 north latitude, and from 159-27-30 to 159-30-00 west longitude.
The Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge is unique among federal wildlife refuges in that about 120 acres of Refuge land are leased to taro farmers, with about 80 acres used for grazing. Taro farming in Hanalei Valley helps to perpetuate an ancient Hawaiian cultural tradition and provides quality wetland habitat for endangered waterbirds.
In 1980, the Refuge area was designated as the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge Historic and Archaeological District. It was also placed on the National and State Register of Historic Places.
Hurricanes and Tsunamis
Life on a tropical island in the middle of the Pacific Ocean includes the possibility of various natural disasters, including landslides, volcanic eruptions, earthquakes, and floods, as well as the most destructive events in the Hawaiian Islands—the dreaded hurricanes and tsunamis (tidal waves).
The last two Hawaiian hurricanes have unleashed their power primarily on Kaua‘i: Hurricane ‘Iwa struck Kaua‘i in 1982, damaging many structures in the Hanalei region; and Hurricane ‘Iniki, by far the most devastating, made a direct hit on Kaua‘i on September 11, 1992.
Hurricane ‘Iniki began brewing far to the southeast of the Hawaiian Island, and winds within the storm slowly grew to more than 100 miles per hour as the whole hurricane slowly moved north-northwest at about 20 miles per hour. Eventually the hurricane’s path turned due north and it made a direct hit on Kaua‘i.
[Photograph: Hurricane ‘Iniki above island of Kaua‘i]
For well over an hour, Kaua‘i’s north shore residents endured ferocious winds as they huddled in shelters throughout the island. Windows were smashed by debris that filled the air and crashed violently into buildings. Sometimes a whole roof would detach and lift upward in one large piece before breaking up in the vortex of wind. Entire houses were blown off their foundations.
Then suddenly the wind stopped and some people went outside. It was still cloudy all around, but straight above there was pure blue sky, which was a welcome sight amidst all the destruction. The hurricane had not passed, however, but instead was actually directly overhead—they were right in the middle of the hurricane’s eye!
Within minutes, as the hurricane’s eye moved past, the full force of the hurricane was felt again, this time all at once in a devastating rush of wind with gusts over 100 miles per hour. Because the wind was now going in the opposite direction, structures that had been weakened to the point of collapse by the first half of the hurricane were now quickly finished off as the destruction continued.
As Hurricane ‘Iniki proceeded over the island of Kaua‘i, one ferocious gust of wind within the hurricane was clocked at 227 miles per hour, a measurement that was taken by the Navy’s Mākaha Ridge radar station. Soon after that digital readout was sent, the wind gauging equipment was blown off the mountain.
Hurricane ‘Iniki caused more than $3 billion in property damage on Kaua‘i, including damage to more than 70% of the island’s homes. Island-wide, about 14,000 homes and apartments were damaged, including 1,421 completely destroyed. The community of Princeville topped the list with 279 homes destroyed. At the time of the hurricane there were 8,200 hotel, condo, and bed and breakfast rooms on Kaua‘i, and ‘Iniki shut down 90% of them.
Hurricane ‘Iniki also did major damage to Hanalei Pier, which was rebuilt using concrete. The Princeville Hotel was severely damaged, and required $30 million worth of repairs.
The Haraguchi Rice Mill underwent extensive restorations after both Hurricane ‘Iwa in 1982 and Hurricane ‘Iniki in 1992. Hurricane ‘Iniki also caused structural damage to Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church, lifting the building off its foundations and damaging the precious stained glass windows, which were later completely restored.
The word tsunami derives from the Japanese “tsu,” meaning harbor, and “nami,” which means wave. Tsunamis are caused by earthquakes, landslides, volcanic eruptions, and potentially (and possibly historically), tsunamis may also be caused by meteor impacts, and have killed more people in the Hawaiian Islands than all other natural disasters combined. Since 1837, there have been at least 13 significant tsunami events affecting the Hawaiian Islands, killing more than 290 people.
[Photograph: 1957 tsunami; see relief ship photo.]
The two tsunamis that had the most affect on the Hanalei region occurred a decade apart, in 1946 and 1957. The 1946 tsunami, which killed 17 people on Kaua‘i, struck on April 1 and was caused by an earthquake in the Aleutian Islands, 2,400 miles north of the Hawaiian Islands.[dcccxiii] The first of the tsunami waves hit the Hawaiian Islandsaround 6:30 a.m.
The 1946 tsunami brought 15 waves in all, rising up to 56 feet above sea level in some places. The water rose to 33 feet above sea level in Hilo where close to 500 homes and businesses were destroyed and more than 1,000 more damaged, causing an estimated $26 million in damage, including railroads, bridges, piers and ships.
Ninety-six people in Hilo were killed by the waves. Nearly 500 homes and businesses were destroyed and more than 1,000 more damaged along with railroads, bridges, piers and ships. Total damage was estimated at $26 million.
On Kaua‘i, the 1946 tsunami altered the course of the Waipā Stream, requiring an additional span to be added to the bridge. The tsunami also caused the collapse of the east end of the Waikoko Bridge, which was then made passable by piling up rocks atop the fallen structure, a makeshift solution that remains in use today.
The 1946 tsunami also washed away the carp stocked in the Lily Pond in Hanalei town. (The 1946 tsunami also killed 120 people on Hawai‘i Island, 13 people on Maui, and 6 people on O‘ahu.)
[Photographs: Hanalei Pavilion; Hanalei tsunami damage.]
Kaha aku la ka nalu o ku‘u ‘āina.
The surf of my land has swept everything away.
A retort to one who boasts about the value and beauty of his own land.[dcccxiv]
On March 9, 1957, another earthquake in the Aleutian Islands generated a tsunami that destroyed or severely damaged more than 75 homes along Kaua‘i’s north shore, including 25 of the 29 homes in Hā‘ena. Also destroyed was Hā‘ena School. The 1957 tsunami also damaged the Hanalei Bridge, requiring the addition of reinforcements that were added in 1959.
Along Weke Road on Hanalei Bay, the 1957 tsunami moved the Sanborn home about ten feet off its foundation but caused only minor structural damage.[dcccxv] The tsunami also damaged the Fayé Beach House, and knocked out the old Kalihiwai Bridge, disrupting the filming of the movie South Pacific.
Princeville
In July of 1968, Harry Trueblood of Eagle County Development Corporation (a Denver-based subsidiary of Consolidated Oil and Gas Company) bought all but about 50 acres of the Princeville Ranch from a subsidiary of American Factors Ltd. (Amfac).
The sale included 11,000 acres of Princeville land and four agricultural parcels of about 7,000 acres each as well as 4,000 acres designated as forest reserve conservation land.[dcccxvi] Princeville Ranch had just seven employees and two resident workers
The new Princeville Ranch owners received approval from the Land Use Commission in 1969 for urban districting on 995 acres, including 532 acres dedicated to housing and hotel development, with the remaining land designated for a 27-hole golf course and open space.
The development of Princeville as a major resort area began in 1970 and included digging wells, building roads, and installing underground utilities. In 1971, the Makai Golf Course opened with three, nine-hole courses called Lakes, Woods, and Ocean.
The United States Fish & Wildlife Service purchased 905 acres of Princeville’s Hanalei Valley land in 1972, and this land is now part of the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge. The Princeville Center opened in 1977, offering 27,000 square feet (2,508 sq. m) of space for rent.
In 1982, Princeville Hotel Corporation was formed with the intent of constructing a major luxury hotel at Pu‘upōā on the east side of Hanalei Bay. The Princeville Corporation (formerly Eagle County Development Corporation) began trading as a public company in 1984, and was listed on the NASDAQ stock exchange.
In September of 1985, the Sheraton Princeville Hotel opened, with 300 rooms available for visitors. The development of the Prince Golf Course began in 1986 on the upper eastern side of Princeville above the main resort area.
In 1987, the Qintex Group of Queensland, Australia purchased the resort, which was then taken private, and from 1989 to 1991 an extensive refurbishment of the hotel took place. Also built was the 60,000 square-foot Prince Clubhouse adjacent to the Prince Golf Course. The Princeville Hotel was renamed the Sheraton Mirage Princeville, upgraded to a 5-star standard, and reopened on May 15, 1991.
In June of 1990, the Princeville Corporation was acquired out of bankruptcy by the Japanese real estate development and sales company Suntory Ltd., also a beverage giant. Suntory became the majority shareholder (51%), while two other Japanese companies, the banking company Nippon Shinpan & Co. Ltd. and the diversified trading company Mitsui & Co. Ltd., became equal shareholders as minority partners.
The resort’s name officially became “Princeville Resort,” and the hotel was renamed “Princeville Hotel.” The Princeville Corporation also continued to operate the Prince and Makai golf courses as well as the Princeville Center and the Princeville Health Club and Spa.
Since the mid-1980s, the Princeville Hotel has been managed by Starwood Hotels and Resorts.[dcccxvii] The hotel was closed for repairs after being severely damaged by Hurricane ‘Iniki on September 11, 1992.
Hurricane ‘Iniki struck Kaua‘i on September 11, 1992, causing more than $3 billion in property damage on Kaua‘i, including damage to more than 70% of the island’s homes, and completely destroying 1,421 homes.
The cost of the reconstruction of the hotel after Hurricane ‘Iniki was $30 million[dcccxviii] and the hotel’s 250-person staff returned to work on October 15, 1993. In May of 1995 the Princeville Hotel was designated “Hotel of the Year” by ITT Sheraton.[dcccxix]
Today the community of Princeville is Kaua‘i’s largest planned resort community, encompassing 9,000 acres. The resort community includes thousands of condominiums, hundreds of homes, a shopping center, the 252-room Princeville Hotel, and the luxurious Princeville Spa as well as two expansive golf courses rated among the top in the nation.
In 2005, the 9,000-acre Princeville Resort was sold for $200 million to: Honolulu-based real estate developer Jeffrey R. Stone; a Honolulu investment consortium known as Hawai‘i Land Development Corporation (now Princeville Associates LLC, a newly formed venture company owned by Stone); and Morgan Stanley Real Estate Funds.
The Hanalei Land Development Company was recently a minority investor in the purchase of Honsador Lumber. Jeffrey Stone was previously involved in the purchase of O‘ahu’s Ka Olina Resort in 1998. Morgan Stanley Real Estate Funds is a subsidiary of Morgan Stanley investment and credit service.
The sale by Princeville Corporation included the Princeville Hotel along with the resort’s two golf courses, the Princeville Tennis Club and Pro Shop, Princeville Health Club and Spa, the Princeville Shopping Center, and other north shore lands.
The future of the Princeville area remains in flux, with plans in the works for new employee housing, renovations to the Princeville Shopping Center, new name-brand hotels, and other new development. Starwood Hotel & Resorts continues to run the Princeville Hotel while also building new timeshare villas in Princeville for Starwood Vacation Ownership.
Despite the rapid growth of the Princeville area in recent decades, the region still retains a sense of its pristine beauty, with rolling hills that bridge the valleys of Hanalei and Kalihiwai and form a coastal plateau with expansive ocean and mountain views.
Haraguchi Rice Mill
The Haraguchi Rice Mill was the last mill to operate in the Hanalei region, and is now the only remaining rice mill still standing in the State of Hawai‘i.[dcccxx]
The Haraguchi Rice Mill was originally constructed of wood and corrugated sheet iron. After Hurricane ‘Iwa damaged the structure in 1982, the mill underwent an extensive restoration. Fortunately, just days before the hurricane hit, architectural drawings of the mill were completed by a team of workers with the American Engineering Record, including layout details and exact measurements critical to the authentic mill restoration process.
The mill’s machinery was also restored, turning the mill into a historic museum now available for educational tours. Concrete cinder blocks were installed for the rice mill’s 79-foot by 40-foot foundation, and an Oregon mill retooled their machinery to provide the unsanded, original size lumber.
Mill equipment was slowly and sometimes creatively restored. A bushing from the main shaft of the mill engine had been used as a counterweight on a tractor, and was lost in the fields. Undeterred, the Haraguchis used a metal detector to find the lost bushing.
In 1992, Hurricane ‘Iniki dealt another blow to the Haraguchi Rice Mill, doing extensive damage to the structure and requiring another restoration effort. (Hurricane ‘Iniki also damaged more than 70% of the Kaua‘i’s homes, and completely destroyed 1,421 homes.) Boone Morrison, an architect and photographer from Hawai‘i Island, referred to the original drawings of the Haraguchi Rice Mill to create a professional blueprint. Included in the restoration was the original Fairbanks-Morse, single cylinder, diesel engine.
Leading the restoration project were Rodney and Karol Haraguchi. Rodney is the son of William Haraguchi and the great grandson Tomijiro and Ine Haraguchi, the farm’s initial founders (see Part 4). The family tradition continues today with Rodney and Karol Haraguchi farming about 50 acres (20 ha) of taro along with the help of their extended family.
In April of 2004, volunteers erected an 18-foot (5 m) tall yagura (rice-bird sentry tower) near the Haraguchi Rice Mill. The yagura was constructed as part of a timber-framing workshop and community service project sponsored by the Fox Maple School of Traditional Building. The towers were once common on local rice fields, and children were often given the job of pulling on a cord attached to tin cans to scare the rice birds away from the fields.
During the 2004 yagura project, hand tools and joinery techniques were utilized and no nails or glue were used. Also working on the yagura-building project were Tom Haraguchi, who had stood sentry in a yagura during his youth, and Rodney’s father, William Haraguchi, who ran the farm for many years and continues to help today.
Hanalei River and Bay
For many centuries before Western contact, the Hanalei River irrigated the taro fields of Hanalei Valley. During the last two centuries the river waters have irrigated various other crops grown in Hanalei, including fields of coffee, sugarcane, rice, and many other products.
Today the Hanalei River again provides water to the thirsty taro. The river also provides an important community recreational resource enjoyed by kayakers, canoe paddlers, and others. Many local residents enjoy fishing from the riverbanks, and local fishermen launch their boats from the Hanalei rivermouth. Families from all around Kaua‘i gather at Black Pot Beach Park next to Hanalei Pier, a popular spot for picnics, barbecues, and other gatherings of ‘ohana (extended family and friends).
[Photograph: Hanalei River]
“To the planters in the valley this river is of incalculable value. By ordinary-sized sail-boats it is navigable for three miles above its mouth, and is from one to two hundred feet wide. By means of boats they can send their produce down to any vessel that may be anchored in the harbor awaiting its reception.”
Bates, 1854[dcccxxi]
Hanalei Bay is an important natural habitat for many native species, including honu (sea turtles), nai‘a (spinner dolphins), and dozens of species of reef fish. Koholā (humpback whales) also occasionally venture into Hanalei Bay, as do various species of manō (sharks), particularly when large fishing nets are set out in the bay by fishing boats.
Numerous sightings of large tiger sharks have occurred in the waters of Hanalei Bay, and a 14-foot- (4.3-m-) long tiger shark was caught in 2003 not far from Hanalei Pier shortly after 13-year-old Bethany Hamilton was attacked at the nearby beach called Makua (Tunnels). Bethany’s subsequent national surfing championship and unfailing positive attitude in the face of trying circumstances have now inspired people all around the world.
Today at least three canoe clubs—Hanalei, Nāmolokama, and Kaiola—practice their paddling skills in the waters of Hanalei Bay.
The Hanalei Canoe Club was established in 1973 as an extension of the Hanalei Hawaiian Civic Club. The State Championship Regatta was held in Hanalei Bay that same year, and Hanalei took first place. The Canoe Club continues to thrive as an important cultural and community group that trains all age levels in the sport of outrigger canoe paddling while also emphasizing Hawaiian cultural knowledge, including the Hawaiian language.
Also plying the waters of Hanalei Bay are various other vessels large and small, including sailboats, one-man canoes, sailing canoes, voyaging canoes, kayaks, fishing boats, and assorted personal watercraft. Dozens of large and small sailboats anchor in Hanalei Bay during the summer months when the water is generally calm. Many of these sailboats spend the summer in the bay before continuing their journeys across the Pacific and beyond.
Hanalei Bay is also the destination site of the annual Singlehanded TransPacific Yacht Race (TransPac). The first TransPac took place in 1978 when 33 boats sailed from the Golden Gate Bridge toward Hanalei Bay, and twenty-two boats finished the 2,120-mile course. The winner took 13 days, 2 hours, and 34 minutes (corrected 9:17:18) Peter Hogg set the record when he sailed to Hanalei in just 8 days, 20 hours, and 16 minutes.[dcccxxii]
[Photograph: Hanalei Bay sailboats, Transpac]
“At the present season the anchorage [Hanalei] is safe, but when the N.W. gales blow, a very heavy sea must tumble into the bay. I am informed that a Russian store-ship rode out the season in spite of everything. The anchorage is pretty well covered by a spit, over which there is about nine feet; but there is not sufficient space in bad weather for more than three vessels, although in the present fine season the bay is spacious.”
Captain Edward Belcher of the Sulphur, 1837[dcccxxiii]
The Hanalei River Hui
On July 30, 1998, the Hanalei River was designated as an American Heritage River by President Bill Clinton, and the Hanalei River Hui was established as part of the American Heritage River program. The Hanalei River was one of just 14 rivers nationwide to receive the American Heritage River designation, and the only tropical waterway to receive the designation.
The River Hui is primarily concerned with the 16-mile (4.9-m) length of the Hanalei River, the 21-square-mile (54 sq.km.) watershed of Hanalei Valley, and the offshore coral reefs in Hanalei Bay. [River length and watershed area statistics from: Calhoun, R. Scott, and Fletcher, Charles H. Measured and predicted sediment yield from a subtropical, heavy rainfall, steep-sided river basin: Hanalei, Kauai, Hawaiian Islands. Geomorphology 30 (1999) 213-226.]
Also important to the Hui are the three neighboring valleys—Wai‘oli, Waipā, and Waikoko—which all have streams that flow into Hanalei Bay.
According to their mission statement, the Hanalei River Hui “strives to mālama the ahupua‘a (watershed) of Hanalei guided by the Hawaiian principles of mālama ‘āina (sustainability and stewardship), pono (integrity and balance), laulima (cooperation), and aloha, especially as it applies to cultural equity and respect.”[dcccxxiv]
Hui members gather data on native species and also work with local school children on outdoor educational activities. The Hui’s scientific endeavors include an ongoing water quality assessment project that involves collecting water samples from various sites in Hanalei Bay and Hanalei River.
Water tests conducted by the River Hui in Hanalei Bay have frequently shown high bacterial counts, and so the Hui continues to work on long term solutions to the contamination problem. A first step is identifying major pollution sources, including nearby cesspools that pollute the water, particularly during heavy rains.
The River Hui also monitors newly hatched larvae of the native ‘o‘opu fish (Gobiidae; Eleotridae, native gobies). The main difference between the ‘o‘opu families of Gobiidae and Eleotridae is that the pelvic fins of Eleotridae are not fused.
Five ‘o‘opu species inhabit Kaua‘i’s north shore streams and rivers: ‘o‘opu nōpili (Sicyopterus stimpsoni); ‘o‘opu nākea (Awaous guamensis); ‘o‘opu naniha (Stenogobius hawaiiensis); ‘o‘opu ‘akupa (Eleotris sandwicensis); ‘o‘opu ‘alamo‘o (Lentipes concolor).
‘O‘opu are born as larvae in freshwater streams and then washed down into the ocean where they develop into mature fish. They eventually return to the stream where they were born and then swim upstream, climbing rocks and waterfalls to reach the upper levels.
‘O‘opu accomplish these remarkable climbing feats by using their specially adapted pelvic fins, which are fused to form a sucking disc. At the conclusion of their upriver journey the ‘o‘opu lay their eggs and complete their life cycle.
Frank Kurihara, who grew up in Hanalei in the early 1900s, considered ‘o‘opu “delicious eating, fried or lawalu’d with ti leaves, or in soups, or dried.”[dcccxxv] Local residents anticipated catching the ‘o‘opu that came downriver during the first floods of August, when fish “migrated downstream by the hordes.”[dcccxxvi]
‘O‘opu nākea are the largest of the gobies, at up to 14 inches long, and were once abundant in the Hanalei River. In recent years the ‘o‘opu nākea populations have severely declined.
[Photograph: ‘O‘opu nākea]
Ka i‘a a ka wai nui i lawe mai ai.
The fish borne along by the flood.
The ‘o‘pu, which was often carried to the lowlands in freshets.[dcccxxvii]
[Photograph: Hanalei Bay and Rivermouth]
[Photo Caption:]
“The ocean and rivers were just teeming with fish, and it was no problem to catch enough for the family’s needs.”
Frank Kurihara[dcccxxviii]
[Photograph: Hanalei River Hui doing research]
[Photo Caption:]
On May 6, 2003, the Hanalei Heritage River Program received a $700,000 grant from the Environmental Protection Agency for the protection of the Hanalei ahupua‘a watershed.[dcccxxix]
[Sidebar:]
[Photograph: Hanalei rivermouth]
[Photo Caption:]
Kauahoa—The Handsome Hero of Hanalei
A famous and proud warrior of Hanalei in ancient times, according to legend, was Kauahoa. His name means “The friendly rain,” and he was known as Ka me‘e u‘i o Hanalei (“The handsome hero of Hanalei”). Kauahoa blocked the headwaters of the Hanalei River because he was angry that the chief ‘Aikanaka did not utilize his fighting skills. When Kauahoa was finally called to battle he pulled up a large koa tree to use as a war club, and as he held the club aloft there were still birds singing in the tree’s branches.
Hanalei Today—The Waipā Foundation
The lands of Waipā were slated for development in the 1970s, but this was forestalled when local farmers and fishermen began an organized effort to preserve the ahupua‘a (watershed), and petitioned the landowner, Kamehameha Schools, for a lease to the valley. Kamehameha Schools has vast land holdings and investments worth more than six billion dollars.
The families of David Kawika Sproat, Samson Mahu‘iki, and others organized the Hawaiian Farmers of Hanalei, which began to restore the valley for traditional community use.[dcccxxx]
In 1994, David Sproat’s daughter, Stacy Sproat-Beck developed a Land Use Masterplan for Waipā and formed the nonprofit (501c3) Waipā Foundation.[dcccxxxi] Today the ongoing activities at the ahupua‘a of Waipā now help to sustain the community economically and provide a living classroom for local children who learn first hand by studying the natural ecosystems.
Students investigate the geology of the surrounding mountains and the hydrological cycles of the streams and natural springs. They also learn about the native plants and animals, from the birds in the Waipa mountain forests to the marine life inhabiting the coral reefs offshore in Hanalei Bay. Students count native fish, conduct tests on water quality, participate in professionally guided archaeological excavations, and map the cultural and natural resources of the Waipā ahupua‘a (watershed).
Other ongoing activities at Waipā include a fishtank aquaculture project as well as a large, organic vegetable/herb garden tended by volunteers who share in the harvest.[dcccxxxii] Native plants are propagated, and a nursery is used to grow tropical flowers.
Waipā’s thatched hālau (canoe house) along the sandy shoreline of Hanalei Bay allows students to practice outrigger canoe paddling as well as canoe surfing on the formidable ocean waves. On the coastal area of Waipā, trained facilitators lead participants through a Ropes Challenge Course designed to build inner strength and trust through teamwork.
Teachers and mentors at Waipā include native Hawaiian kūpuna (elders). An integral part of Waipā’s program involves the farming of taro, which is milled into poi each week and then provided to community members at a low cost.
Hanalei Today—Shipwrecks
In 1995, the Smithsonian Institution’s Dr. Paul Forsythe Johnston used remote sensing equipment to discover the buried location of the sunken wreck of Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i (Prince of Hawai‘i), formerly known as Cleopatra’s Barge. The ship, which sank in Hanalei Bay in 1824 (see Part 2), had remained largely untouched until Johnston began his efforts to recover artifacts from the wreck. Johnston had earlier worked as a curator at a maritime museum in Salem, Massachusetts where Cleopatra’s Barge had been constructed in 1816.
The research vessel used for the salvage project was the Pilialoha (Circle of Friends), which was captained by Rick Rogers. In July of 1995, the crew sailed to Hanalei Bay from Hale‘iwa Harbor, O‘ahu to begin the salvage work.
The initial search for the sunken ship utilized old charts as well as various modern search techniques, including satellite navigation. A proton precession magnetometer was used to locate the wreck by detecting tiny fluctuations in Earth’s magnetic field. The ship was found about ten feet beneath the sand at the mouth of the Wai‘oli River, which flows into the ocean about midway along the sandy crescent of Hanalei Bay.
An L-shaped propwash-deflector was used to direct pressure from the Pilialoha’s prop down onto the seafloor in order to move sand and uncover artifacts from the wreck. Recovered items included a calabash gourd, quartered whale’s tooth, gold-laced beads, and an ivory ring. Many recovered items may have been part of King Kamehameha II’s wardrobe. Though the king wasn’t on board during the voyage to Kaua‘i, many of his belongings were on the ship when it sank.
Chinese artifacts recovered from the wreck of Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i included ceramics and tableware. Some fine cabinet glass that was recovered may have come from France. Copper hull sheathing came from England, and still bore the manufacturer’s mark, “W&G/G24.” Also possibly from England was a black glass liquor bottle. Many American-made artifacts were also found, including a leather holster, a block and tackle (with rope), and musket balls.
Other artifacts recovered from the wreck included bronze spikes, pieces of porcelain, pearlware, glass, bone, iron, ivory, lead pipe (probably from the ship’s plumbing) and a wooden wheel. A folding knife and a two-pronged fork were found, along with various stone artifacts including ballast stones, stone lamps (used to burn kukui nut oil), stone poi pounders, stone anchors, cooking stones, and a cow’s tibia bone that had been worked into an awl or meat pick.
A pū (triton conch sell) found in the wreckage was likely used as the ship’s horn. During the last days of the 1996 recovery work, large sections of the ship’s hull were discovered, but they were left in place due to time constraints.
[Photograph: Hanalei Bay wreck site]
Another recent shipwreck discovery was the 155-foot, U.S. Navy ship Saginaw, whose crew members fashioned a rescue vessel from the wreck and sent five men sailing for help. They ended up off Hanalei, though only one survived.
Marine archaeologists diving in a reef channel at Kure Atoll, about 1,000 mile northwest of Kaua‘i, discovered the site of the wreck of the Saginaw in August of 2003. The ship had wrecked on the reef 133 years earlier.
The divers found a series of metal artifacts including large iron anchors and heavily encrusted cannons. TheSaginaw was the only known wreck at Kure to have cannons on board, which helped in the identification of the sunken ship. The divers found copper drift pins that once held the Saginaw’s timbers together, and bronze gudgeons that had attached the ship’s rudder to the stern.
The 22-foot captain’s boat that the five men used to get help now is on display at Castle Museum in Saginaw, Michigan. It was this vessel that foundered off Hanalei Bay with the exhausted crew, eventually drifting as far as Kalihiwai before a lone survivor was able to relate the tragic story of the Saginaw to authorities, who then sent help to Kure to rescue the stranded crew (see Part 3).
Hanalei Today—The Return of Taro
After the decline of the rice industry throughout the Hawaiian Islands in the early 1900s, significant taro farming eventually began again in Hanalei when it was initiated by Masato Yokotake in the 1940s and then Mr. Tasaka and Mr. Morishige and others, primarily planting the lehua maoli variety of taro brought from Waimea.[dcccxxxiii]
In 1940 in upper Hanalei Valley taro terraces were irrigated by a half-mile-long ditch bringing water “through a big rock which is conveniently cracked,” observed Handy, adding, “the legend runs that Pele sent lightning to split the rock so that the people could get the water down to the fields.”[dcccxxxiv] Walter Foss Sanborn successfully grew taro in 1940 in an area of lower, eastern Hanalei Valley that had been planted in rice for the previous three decades.[dcccxxxv]
With the return of substantial taro farming in Hanalei Valley, there was also a need for mills to make the taro corms into poi. As the rice mills of the region closed, poi mills began to appear at residents’ homes, including the Makas in Hā‘ena as well as the Alohiaus and Lotas in Hanalei. Walter Foss Sanborn had a poi mill in Hanalei across the street from his home on Weke Road.[dcccxxxvi]
By the 1880s several changes of ownership of the poi mill occurred, and poi from the Hanalei region was being shipped as far as Hanapēpē.
Census information from the Department of Commerce states that about 116 acres of taro were farmed in Hanalei in 1949. In 1997, about 220 acres of taro were farmed in Hanalei, including eight farms on 125 acres within the boundaries of the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge. Also documented were 50 acres of taro in Wai‘oli Valley, 10 to 15 acres in Waipā Valley, and 5 to 10 acres in Waikoko Valley.[dcccxxxvii]
Taro production in the Islands totaled about six million pounds in 1998, and since that time taro acreage has declined. From 2000 to 2005, and taro production decreased from about 5 million to about 3 million pounds, and the number of taro farmers decreased from 70 to about 50. In 2002, about 5.7 million pounds of Hawaiian taro were milled into poi, a six percent decrease in production from the previous year.
Recent declines in taro and poi production are attributed to pests, diseases, and bad weather, including record rains in 2006 that caused flooding and significant damage to taro crops.[dcccxxxviii]
Kaua‘i currently provides more than 70% of all taro grown in the State of Hawai‘i. More than half of the island’s taro is grown in Hanalei Valley. Taro’s large, heart-shaped lū‘au (leaves) create a scenic patchwork of green fields covering the Hanalei Valley floor.
[Photograph: Hanalei Valley taro]
Hanalei Today—Connections to Ancient Times
Today in Hanalei an ancient sense of place remains. The richness of the history and culture is perpetuated in many ways, and memories of ancient days still echo in the sounds of the rushing streams, reverberate in the crashing of the ocean waves, and arc overhead in rainbows of color that appear and disappear with each passing rainshower.
Many descendants of the original settlers still live in the Hanalei region, and these native Hawaiians are the living links to Hanalei’s ancient days, their genealogies reaching back through time to the first inhabitants who arrived thousands of years ago.
In recent decades among the native Hawaiian people there has been a resurgence in the use of the spoken and written Hawaiian language as well as a renewal of traditional Hawaiian cultural practices. Native groups and others are working to restore and preserve native cultural sites, including heiau (sacred places of worship), loko ‘ia (fishponds), and whole ahupua‘a, the traditional Hawaiian watersheds that supply all the needs of the community.
The Hōkūle‘a voyaging canoe, a symbol of the revival of Hawaiian traditions, has sailed into Hanalei Bay numerous times since it was launched in 1975, including extended visits in June/July of 2005 accompanied by the voyaging canoe Makali‘i. From Hanalei Bay the two voyaging canoes sailed to the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands and then returned to Hanalei to offer educational opportunities for local youth.
Visits to Hanalei by traditional Hawaiian voyaging canoes and their crews have given further inspiration to the perpetuation of local Hawaiian culture in the region, and many advocate the restoration of an independent nation or some other formal arrangement to redress past infringements on native rights.
Many local residents are concerned about the rapidly increasing development of north shore lands and the consequent loss of public access to beaches and mountain areas. Protecting the region’s unique beauty and cultural significance has often proved difficult in the face of powerful commercial interests, yet alliances between environmentalists, preservationists, philanthropists, and native groups have led to better planning for future growth.
The record surge in real estate values throughout the Islands has led to a rapid increase in the number of vacation rentals on the north shore and across Kaua‘i, and consequently a shortage of long term rentals for local residents. Homes purchased for inflated prices often require huge mortgage payments, drawing many homeowners to the lucrative vacation rental market. Homeowners have seen huge property tax increases due to rising property values, and this has forced some residents on fixed incomes to sell their homes.
Another difficulty facing the Hanalei region today comes from invasive, non-native plant and animal species that imperil native ecosystems. Many native species have become endangered and extinct since Western contact in 1778, including the extinction of more than half of all native bird species in the Hawaiian Islands.
Local conservation efforts have done much to protect threatened and endangered populations of nēnē (Hawaiian goose), mōlī (albatross), ‘a‘o and ‘ua‘u kani (Newell’s and wedge-tailed shearwaters), ‘ilio-holo-i-ka-uaua (monk seals), and many other native species.
The Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge remains a stronghold of several endangered native waterbirds, including theae‘o (Hawaiian black-necked stilt), ‘alae ke‘oke (Hawaiian coot), koloa maoli (Hawaiian duck), and ‘alae ‘ula (Hawaiian moorhen).
The native Hawaiian population of the Hanalei region is strong and continues to educate the next generation about the Hawaiian culture. The Hanalei Canoe Club, for example, emphasizes the study of the Hawaiian language along with their rigorous ocean training. The Waipā Foundation’s restoration of the Waipā ahupua‘a for use as a living classroom has also helped efforts to carry on the traditional practices of ancient times.
Hanalei Today—Hanalei Bridge
The Hanalei Bridge is considered the “gateway to Hanalei” and is the first of Route 560’s seven bridges that accommodate just one direction of traffic at a time.
A plan to replace Hanalei Bridge with a more modern, two-lane, concrete structure was proposed by the Department of Transportation in 1974. Community input encouraged preservation, and a grassroots movement to save the historic Hanalei Bridge led to a commitment to restore the existing structure rather than replace it.[dcccxxxix]
The cost of repairing and restoring Hanalei Bridge was $442,000 and increased the bridge’s load limit. Work included truss reinforcements, replacing decking and timber stringers, prestressing of the floor beams, and painting the bridge.[dcccxl] On May 24, 1989, a dedication ceremony was held to celebrate the completion of the bridge work.
In 1999, bridge inspections identified the need for more repairs, and it was determined that the original Pratt trusses had to be removed or replaced. Also needing repairs were the Warren trusses, which had been added in 1967 and supported most of the weight going over the bridge.
Repair and restoration work on Hanalei Bridge took place in 2002-2003 after a national travel magazine had rated the bridge as one of the United States’ most dangerous. The repair work attempted to replicate the bridge’s original truss structure.
A blessing for the restored Hanalei Bridge was attended by United States Senator Daniel Inouye as well as members of the Hanalei Roads Committee who had worked for many years to preserve the historic character of the bridge.[dcccxli]
The Boating Controversy
In the 1970s, a tour-boat industry emerged on Kaua‘i’s north shore to provide access to the Nāpali Coast, whichspans for about 15 miles of rugged shoreline between the beaches of Kē‘ē on the northwest side of Kaua‘i and Polihale on the southwest side. The Nāpali is truly one of Earth’s natural wonders, with cliffs rising up steeply for thousands of feet into pointed spires and sharp ridges where volcanic pinnacles stand sentinel over deep, ancient valleys.
Tour companies initially launched their boats primarily from Hanalei Bay and nearby Hā‘ena at Makua (Tunnels) Beach. Many companies used the protected waters of the large Hanalei rivermouth to service their boats and to load and unload passengers.
The number of tour boats serving the north shore grew quickly, and by the mid-1980s tour boat owners were increasingly at odds with government agencies and local groups concerned about increases in traffic at beach parks, unenforced permitting regulations, and negative environmental impacts to Hanalei Bay and Hanalei River.
Ambiguity regarding rules, jurisdictions, and permits resulted in numerous lawsuits in the late 1980s. A 1989 ruling by a Third Circuit Judge prohibited tour boat activity at the Hanalei rivermouth until county permits were acquired by business owners. Unpermitted tours continued to operate from Hanalei, however, and some boat crews were confronted by protesters who claimed that the commercial boating activities were illegal.
Despite the controversy, the number of daily boat tours and charters continued to increase, and included fishing boats, sailboats, kayaks, catamarans, motorized rubber rafts, and various other vessels that primarily provided tourists with access to the Nāpali Coast. The legality of boating industry activities was bitterly contested and increasingly contentious, and attempts at mediation by then-Mayor JoAnn Yukimura were unsuccessful.
In July of 1991 the Department of Transportation began to enforce the rules against unpermitted boating activities. Eight days later the enforcement was halted, and the citations that had previously been issued were later withdrawn.
A series of community meetings orchestrated by Mayor Yukimura resulted in the Hanalei Estuary Management Plan, adopted on September 10, 1992 on the evening before Hurricane ‘Iniki.
Seven commercial boating permits were issued in June of 1993, and the state later issued more than 100 citations for unpermitted activity, but these too were later withdrawn. Then a new mayor, Maryanne Kusaka, then took office and asked the state to withhold enforcement.
During the election season of 1998, Governor Benjamin Cayetano ordered all boat companies to stop running tours from Hanalei Bay, and instead move to official Kaua‘i harbors. In September of 1999, the DLNR attempted to stop the final two motorized boat companies from running tours from Hanalei by refusing to reissue state permits, and in response the companies sued the State of Hawai‘i.
In January of 2000 a Circuit Judge ruled against the DLNR for not following proper procedures, and allowed the two companies to continue their operations. The DLNR immediately began a new process aimed at banning motorized commercial tour boats from the Hanalei Bay.
In May of 2000, the DLNR issued new rules allowing two kayaking companies to operate, but the two remaining powerboat companies and three remaining sailboat companies were facing an imminent demise. In 2002, the last companies to hold county permits for boat tours from Hanalei went to federal court seeking to block the state’s attempt to evict them from Hanalei.
A U.S. District Judge agreed with the boat companies, ruling that “Hanalei Bay and parts of Hanalei River are federal navigable waterways and that the state can’t ban commercial boat traffic there.”[dcccxlii] This effectively reversed the earlier proclamation of Governor Cayetano that had brought an abrupt halt to commercial boating from Hanalei in 1998. Tour boats have largely disappeared from Hanalei waters, yet the future of the industry on Kaua‘i’s north shore remains uncertain.
[Illustration: Surfboards]
[Sidebar:]
Surfing in Ancient Times
Hawaiians have surfed the ocean waves for many hundreds of years. They carved petroglyphs of surfers into lava rocks, and told stories of surfing in ancient Hawaiian chants. Papa he‘e nalu (surfboards) were up to 16 feet long and weighing as much as 175 pounds.
A stone or bone adze was used to carve the surfboard from the buoyant wood of wiliwili, koa, or ‘ulu (breadfruit) trees,[dcccxliii] and then ‘ōahi (rough stone) or pōhaku puna (granulated coral) was used to put a smooth finish on the board.
Root of kī (ti), pounded bark of kukui, or stain from the buds of mai‘a (banana) was used for a final coat, and a dark stain color was also achieved by rubbing the soot from burned kukui nuts into the wood. Oil of kukui nuts gave the surfboard a glossy finish.
The surfboard was dedicated before taking it in the ocean, and then after each surf session the board was treated with oil of niu (coconut). When the surfboard was not being used it was wrapped in kapa barkcloth.
Today many well-known surfboard shapers live in the Hanalei area, including Bobby Allen (BASA), Billy Hamilton (Hamilton Surfboards), Mark Sausen (Papa Sau Surfboards), Dick Brewer (Brewer Surfboards), Terry Chung (Terry Chung Surfboards), and Ian Vernon (Sunburnt Surfboards).
Modern surfboard makers primarily shape foam “blanks” into finished boards that are “glassed” (coated with a liquid resin that hardens). In the last few years factory-produced surfboards made from epoxy have become increasingly popular.
[Photograph: Traditional Hawaiian surfboard]
Hanalei Today—Surfing
Hawai‘i is a mecca for surfers who come from all over the world to test themselves on the large and challenging waves. Every winter a series of huge storm systems are generated off of the Asian landmass, grow over the Bering Sea, and generate enormous swells that propel large ocean waves steadily toward Hawai‘i’s northern shores.
If an experienced local surfer says he surfed Hanalei or The Bay it usually refers to the “point break” directly out from Hanalei Pier. There on the east side of the bay a fringing coral reef provides optimal conditions for well-formed breaking waves.
Along the length of Hanalei Bay are about a dozen other surf spots—Kiddies (near Hanalei Pier), then Pavilions, the Cape, Pine Trees, Grandpas, Middles, Chicken Wing, Waipā, and finally Waikokos at the far western side of the bay.
Far offshore on the western side of Hanalei Bay is Queens reef, while far offshore on the eastern side of the bay isKings. Both Kings and Queens only have breaking waves when extremely large swells arrive from the north, and this usually only occurs just a few times a year or less.
The giant winter waves at the point breaks and outer reefs on Kaua‘i’s north shore are the stuff of legends. The mountainous waves arriving at Kings and Queens more than a mile offshore in Hanalei Bay rival any surf spot in the world.
Kings Reef is traditionally known as Ali‘i Reef, and was first surfed on November 10, 1996 by Titus Kinimaka and Terry Chung, two of Kaua‘i’s renowned local watermen who used a jet ski to tow each other into the massive waves. Chung had previously scuba dived the coral and rock reef at Kings, noting that it was about 50 to 70 feet deep with a rock shelf dropping off to about 120 feet.[dcccxliv]
The accomplishment of Kinimaka and Chung surfing Kings occurred early in the evolution of the sport of tow-in surfing (using powered craft to pull a surfer into a giant wave). In recent years many technological improvements have been made to tow-in surfboards and other equipment used to surf giant ocean waves. Daring surfers will continue to explore Kaua‘i’s outer reefs during the biggest of winter swells.
The sport of surfing has exploded in popularity during the last decade. Some new water sports have also become increasingly popular, including kite surfing (in which the surfer is pulled by a large parachute-like kite) as well as tow-in surfing. Also still popular is the more traditional sport of windsurfing, using a sail attached to the board to provide speed.
[Photograph: Surfing in Hanalei]
[Photo caption:]
The Hawaiian term for surfing is he‘e nalu, which literally means “to ride the waves”.
A Pod of Whales in Hanalei Bay
On July 3, 2004, four Kaua‘i Police Department officers and local water safety officers were called to Hanalei Bay to keep beach-goers away from 150-200 melon headed whales congregating near the shoreline.
Melon headed whales are a relatively small and slender species with a melon-shaped head. They are deep water whales, usually staying at least 20 miles offshore in pods that range in size from about 100 to 500 members.
Bluish-black to dark grey or brown in color, the whales have a white patch on their belly and white lips. Adults reach about nine feet long and weigh up to 600 pounds, feeding on squid, shrimp, and fish.
The pod of melon headed whales first came into Hanalei Bay about 7 a.m. near Pine Trees beach, where they swam in a dense cluster very close to shore. Occasionally the whales broke into several pods and then slowly rejoined as they all moved slowly eastward along the shore, eventually congregating near Pavilions beach.
[Photograph: Melon headed whales]
The next day, the 4th of July, the whale pod remained very near the Hanalei Bay shoreline as marine officials devised a plan to use a string of connected kayaks to nudge the cetaceans out of the bay. The kayaks were hooked together on the beach, but just before this plan was put into action by the NOAA officials, a group of local Hawaiian members of the Hanalei Canoe Club suggested a less cumbersome and more natural method of solving the problem.
The plan of the Canoe Club members was to use a long woven strand of pōhuehue (beach morning glory vine) to gently shepherd the whales from the bay. This hardy vine grows plentifully along the Hanalei Bay shoreline at the high water mark, and was thought to be a safer and less intrusive method than using kayaks to move the pod out to sea. The vines would also be harmless if run into by the dolphins.
When the woven strand of pōhuehue was completed it was about 600 feet long, and canoe club members used two small boats to lay the strand across the water near the whales and then very slowly pull the two ends of the strand seaward to gently nudge the whales out to sea. Within about an hour the whales had moved into deeper waters, and then they suddenly headed for the open sea.
The whale pod had been eerily inactive during the previous day near the shore of Hanalei Bay, but as the whales disappeared toward the horizon many were leaping above the water as if to celebrate their regained freedom. It seemed to be a storybook ending to the near mass stranding. Sadly, the next day one infant melon headed calf about three feet long was found dead in Hanalei Bay near Waipā Stream.
The precise cause of the unusual appearance of the melon headed whales in Hanalei Bay is uncertain, however many attribute the event to the Navy’s testing of mid-frequency, active sonar as part of the RIMPAC (Rim of the Pacific) military exercises that take place in Hawaiian waters every two years and involve many different countries.
The 2004 RIMPAC exercises involved eight countries, including about 18,000 troops, 100 aircraft, more than 40 ships and seven submarines. The military exercises have been held in Hawaiian waters 19 times since 1968. A goal of the 2004 sonar tests during the RIMPAC exercises was to refine the military’s ability to utilize high-volume sounds to locate submarines.
The sonar tests involved a ship tracking an underwater torpedo that produced sonar readings similar to a submarine. Military ships were operating sonar periodically during the 20 hours before the whales entered Hanalei Bay, and two of the U.S. Navy ships and four Japanese ships were located 19 miles off Kaua‘i’s north shore when the whales showed up in Hanalei Bay.
Two of the military ships reported using their sonar between 6:45 and 7:10 a.m., and the whales in Hanalei Bay were first reported around 7:00 a.m. The Navy was quickly informed of the strange appearance of the whale pod in Hanalei Bay, and within hours their active sonar operations were temporarily suspended as a precaution to protect the marine mammals.
In April of 2006, National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) scientists concluded that the sonar may have been a contributing cause of the whales congregating in Hanalei Bay. The results of the investigation led to official requests by NOAA for the Navy to adjust their methods in experimenting with the sonar equipment in future RIMPAC exercises.
[Sidebar:]
Puff the Magic Dragon
“Puff, the magic dragon,” according to the song’s lyrics, “lived by the sea and frolicked in the autumn mist in a land called Honah Lee,” leading some people to think the song refers to Hanalei. Indeed the mountains around Hanalei Bay are shaped in such a way that it is not at all difficult to envision the shape of a dragon wrapped around the coastline, its head laid down at the west end of the bay.
Written by band member Peter Yarrow and his Cornell classmate Leonard Lipton, the song was originally performed by the 1960s musical group Peter, Paul & Mary. Yarrow dispelled the notion of a Hanalei connection, saying it was “serendipitous coincidence.” The song was instead based on a poem about a dragon written by Ogden Nash.[dcccxlv]
[Photograph: View of mountains on west side of bay (dragon shape).]
[Sidebar:]
The Tahiti Nui
Bruce Truesdale Marston came from Pasadena, California and met his wife Louise in Tahiti. They built a house at ‘Anini because it reminded them of Tahiti, and in the summer of 1964 they opened Tahiti Nui in Hanalei.
Tahiti Nui became known as the north shore’s best-known gathering place, hosting visiting celebrities and featuring local singers, musicians, hula dancing, and the beautiful singing of “Aunty Louise” herself, who was for decades considered the best known woman on Kaua‘i’s north shore.
[Photograph: Louise Marston (1928-2003).]
Birds of Hanalei
Native Waterbirds****[dcccxlvi]****
Ø Ae‘o—Hawaiian Black-Necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus knudseni
Ø ‘Alae Ke‘oke—Hawaiian Coot Fulica americana alai
Ø Koloa Maoli—Hawaiian Duck Anas wyvilliana
Ø ‘Alae ‘Ula—Hawaiian Moorhen Gallinula chloropus sandvicensis
Ø ‘Auku‘u—Black-Crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax hoactli
Open Country Birds
Ø Nēnē—Hawaiian Goose Branta sandvicensis
Migratory Species—Seasonal Residents and Occasional Visitors
Ø Kōlea—Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva
Ø Mōlī—Laysan Albatross Diomedea immutabilis
Ø Koloa Mohā—Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata
Ø Koloa Māpu—Northern Pintail Anas acuta
Ø Hunakai—Sanderling Calidris alba
Ø Green-Winged Teal Anas crecca
Ø Blue-Winged Teal Anas discors
Ø Bufflehead Bucephala albeola
Ø Baikal Teal Anas formosa
Ø White-Faced Ibis Plegadis chihi
Seabirds**__[dcccxlvii]__**
Ø ‘Iwa—Great Frigatebird Fregata minor palmerstoni
Ø ‘A‘o—Newell’s (Townsend’s) Shearwater Puffinus auricularis newelli
Ø ‘Ua‘u Kani—Wedge-Tailed Shearwater Puffinus pacificus chlororhynchus
Ø Koa‘e Kea—White-Tailed Tropicbird Phaethon lepturus dorotheae
Ø Koa‘e ‘Ula—Red-Tailed Tropicbird Phaethon rubricauda rothschildi
Native Waterbirds****[dcccxlviii]****
Ø Ae‘o—Hawaiian Black-Necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus knudseni
Ø ‘Alae Ke‘oke—Hawaiian Coot Fulica americana alai
Ø Koloa Maoli—Hawaiian Duck Anas wyvilliana
Ø ‘Alae ‘Ula—Hawaiian Moorhen Gallinula chloropus sandvicensis
Ø ‘Auku‘u—Black-Crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax hoactli
[Photograph: Hawaiian Black-Necked Stilt]
[Photograph Caption:]
Hawaiian Black-Necked Stilt (Himantopus mexicanus knudseni)
Hawaiian Name: Ae‘o (“One standing tall”)
Endemic Subspecies.
Status: Endangered Species. Found on Hawai‘i, Maui, Lāna‘i, Moloka‘i, O‘ahu, Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau.
Ae‘o—Hawaiian Black-Necked Stilt
Often seen in the taro patches of Hanalei Valley, the Hawaiian Black-necked stilt is perfectly suited to a wetland environment. The stilt is a wading bird easily identified by its black and white forehead, white breast, and long, skinny pink legs that are jointed and bend in the opposite direction of the human leg.
Hawai‘i’s Black-necked stilts (ae‘o) constitute a subspecies of the Black-necked stilts found in North and South America, which have less black on their neck and face, and a shorter bill and tail. North American stilts are found as far south as Brazil and also in the Galapagos Islands.
The biggest populations of Hawaiian stilts are on Maui, Kaua‘i and O‘ahu, numbering about 1,600 in all. Stilts are found on O‘ahu, Hawai‘i Island, Maui, Lāna‘i, Moloka‘i, Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau.
In the Hawaiian Islands, stilts were once hunted as game birds. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service listed the Hawaiian subspecies as endangered on October 13, 1970.
Hawaiian stilts are also known as kukuluae‘o, a Hawaiian term that also refers to wooden stilts used for amusement by Hawaiian children in ancient times.
He kukuluāe‘o.
A stilt.
A thin, long-legged person.[dcccxlix]
Hawaiian Black-necked stilts are wading birds that often gather in groups. They make a chirping sound similar to“kip kip” or “keek, keek” and use their long beaks to probe the shallow water mud flats for worms, aquatic insects, crabs, fish, and mollusks.
Stilt breeding and nesting season extends from December to August, but mainly from March to August. The stilt builds a nest in a shallow depression in a small mound, often on the banks of taro patches or in low-lying vegetation areas near the water, and lines the nest with rocks and twigs. The female stilt then lays, on average, four well-camouflaged eggs that incubate for 24 to 26 days.
Stilt chicks are covered with a downy, tannish-brown coat speckled with black. They leave the nest soon after hatching and generally hide under cover until ready to fly. Parents don’t feed the chick but instead help them find suitable food sources. Parents sometimes feign injury (a broken wing) in order to draw predators away from the nest and hatchlings.
Many hatchling chicks don’t make it through their first months. For example, at least 44 stilt chicks were hatched on Kaua‘i’s Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge in 1994, but only one was observed to have fledged.
The precise causes for this low survival rate are unknown, but all of the following may play a role: diseases, parasites, poor food supply and/or food quality, and predation by bullfrogs, cats, dogs, pigs, owls, and possibly also cattle egrets and black-crowned night-heron. Large introduced bullfrogs (Rana catesbeiana) also have been seen preying on stilt chicks.
Historically, stilt populations have also suffered due to loss of wetland habitat as well as the proliferation of invasive, non-native plant species. Many stilts have died due to a soil bacteria that has caused botulism in the stilts’ food sources. This has caused sporadic but large die-offs of affected birds.
[Photograph: Hawaiian Coot]
[Photograph Caption:]
Hawaiian Coot (Fulica alai)
Hawaiian Name: ‘Alae Ke‘oke‘o or ‘Alae Kea.
Endemic Subspecies.
Status: Endangered Species. Found on Hawai‘i, Maui, Lāna‘i, Moloka‘i, O‘ahu, Kaua‘i.
‘Alae Ke‘oke—Hawaiian Coot
‘Alae ke‘oke‘o, the Hawaiian coot, is commonly seen inhabiting Hanalei taro patches. A subspecies of the American coot, the Hawaiian coot is about 14½ inches (37 cm) long, and mostly dark gray to black on top with white undertail feathers.[dcccl] The bill is ivory white, and so is the bulbous frontal shield, which is also called the frontal knob.
While the Hawaiian moorhen (‘alae ‘ula) has a red bill (‘ula means red), the Hawaiian coot (‘alae ke‘oke or ‘alae kea) has a white bill (ke‘oke‘o and kea both mean “white”). Rarely a coot will have a brown or red frontal shield.
The Hawaiian coot, was formerly considered a subspecies of the American coot (Fulica americana), which is found from Panama to Canada and occasionally seen in Hawai‘i. The Hawaiian coot, now classified as a unique species (Fulica alai), and is generally darker, has a larger frontal shield, and a more slender bill than its North American relatives. The Hawaiian coot also displays different patterns of white on its head than the American coot.
Coots feed on insects, fish, and tadpoles as well as leaves and seeds of aquatic plants. Coots don’t fly much, though they are sometimes seen flying over low over the water. Nesting occurs throughout the year, particularly between March and September, on wetland vegetation or in taro patches where coots use sedges, taro stems, or other aquatic plants to construct nests that may rise and fall with changing water levels.
Coots lay on average four to six eggs, which are creamy to tan-colored and speckled with black. The eggs incubate for three to four weeks. The coot chick is downy black with a reddish-orange neck and head, and a black-tipped bill. The bird has a baldish appearance due to the absence of down on the crown and forehead. Soon after hatching, the chicks are able to swim.
The largest coot populations are found on Kaua‘i, O‘ahu, and Maui, with a total population of about 2,000 to 4,000 birds. Coots are known to fly between the Hawaiian Islands.
[Photograph: Coot chick]
[Photograph: Hawaiian Duck]
[Photograph Caption:]
Hawaiian Duck (Anas wyvilliana)
Hawaiian Name: Koloa Maoli (“Native Duck”).
Endemic Species.
Status: Endangered Species. Found on Hawai‘i, O‘ahu, Kaua‘i; possibly extinct on Maui.
Koloa—Hawaiian Duck
The koloa population is estimated at less than 2,500 birds overall, and more than 80% of them are on Kaua‘i.
Koloa are widely distributed on Kaua‘i, where more than 80% of all koloa are found. Koloa were once abundant on all of the main Hawaiian Islands except Lāna‘i and Kaho‘olawe.
By 1915 koloa had become rare on all of the Hawaiian Islands except Kaua‘i. The koloa was listed as a federally endangered species in 1967. The koloa is currently listed as endangered on Hawai‘i, O‘ahu, Kaua‘i, and listed as endangered and possibly extinct on Maui.
In addition to many other threats to this wetland species, koloa chicks may be eaten by dogs, cats, pigs, muskrats, rats, bass, and bullfrogs. Some koloa have been relocated to the islands of O‘ahu and Hawai‘i. Two of the largest koloa populations are found at the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge and the Alekoko (Menehune) Fishpond.
The common mallard is found in North America, Europe and Asia. The endemic Hawaiian species closely resembles the female North American mallard. One threat to the koloa comes from interbreeding with domestic mallards, resulting in hybridization of the endemic Hawaiian species, which evolved from the common mallard (Anas platyrhynchos).
The koloa populations on Kaua‘i in Hanalei Valley and at the Alekoko (Menehune) Fishpond are thought to be the least hybridized (and thus the most genetically pure).
The koloa is mottled golden brown in color, with a greenish head and olive-colored bill. Male koloa are about 20 inches long while female koloa are about 17 inches long. Male koloa have a darker head than females, and some females have an orange-tipped bill.
The koloa’s secondary wing feathers (speculum) are greenish-blue to metallic purple in color with white borders, and the duck’s feet and legs are orange. Koloa eat insects, mollusks, and aquatic vegetation. Breeding and nesting occur year round, particularly between December and May beginning at about one year of age.
Koloa nest in low elevation wetland areas as well as near mountain streams, rivermouths, and taro patches. Koloa use feathers and down to build a well-hidden nest, and then lay from two to ten white to tan-colored eggs.
The koloa’s average clutch size is eight eggs. Koloa eggs incubate for about 28 days before hatching, and after about nine weeks the birds learn to fly.
[Photograph: Hawaiian Moorhen]
[Photograph Caption:]
Hawaiian Moorhen (Gallinula chloropus sandvicensis)
Also called: Hawaiian Gallinule or Mudhen.
Hawaiian Name: ‘Alae ‘Ula (“Red forehead”).
Endemic Subspecies.
Status: Endangered Species. Found on O‘ahu and Kaua‘i; possibly extinct on Hawai‘i, Maui and Moloka‘i.
‘Alae ‘Ula—Hawaiian Moorhen
The Hawaiian moorhen is easily identified by its bright red forehead (frontal shield), and is frequently seen at the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge. Endemic to the Hawaiian Islands, the Hawaiian moorhen (‘alae ‘ula) is a subspecies of North America’s common moorhen, also found in Eurasia.
Also called the Hawaiian gallinule, the moorhen is thought to have been quite common throughout the Hawaiian Islands in the 1800s before the population declined rapidly in the early to mid-1900s.
The moorhen is listed as endangered on O‘ahu and Kaua‘i, and endangered and possibly extinct on Maui, Hawai‘i, and Moloka‘i. The Hawaiian moorhen was federally listed as endangered in 1967 and remains an endangered species today.
A 1982 count by the State Division of Forestry and Wildlife documented 194 moorhen on O‘ahu and Kaua‘i with perhaps a few scattered birds on Maui and Moloka‘i. In the 1970s and 1980s, aquaculture and taro cultivation created more suitable moorhen habitat, increasing the bird’s survival rate.
The moorhen’s secretive nature leads to uncertainty in current population estimates, which range from 150 to 900 birds left in the wild. Moorhen are found only on O‘ahu and Kaua‘i, with few to none on Maui and Moloka‘i and probably none on Hawai‘i. Efforts to reintroduce moorhen on Hawai‘i and Maui have not been successful.
Hawaiian legend tells of how the ‘alae ‘ula brought fire from the gods to the Hawaiian people. During the journey, the moorhen was scorched by the flames, giving the bird its red frontal shield. The demigod Māui, seeking to learn the secret of making fire, caught the ‘alae ‘ula before it could hide.[dcccli]
The adult Hawaiian moorhen is about 13 inches long, with a black head and neck, and a slate-gray to bluish-black back that may be somewhat iridescent. The flanks and undertail feathers of moorhen are white, and the bird’s red bill has a yellow to light green tip.
Aside from its red shield, the moorhen’s dark gray plumage looks very similar to the Hawaiian coot (‘alae ke‘oke‘o). The feet are not webbed, and the yellowish-green legs and feet may show red near the top.
Moorhen are generally shy and secretive, inhabiting freshwater marshes and other wetlands, including taro patches. Moorhen like to hide in dense cover, usually only coming out into the open in the morning and evening to feed. They are adept at walking across floating vegetation to feed on mollusks, insects, and aquatic plants such as taro tops and young shoots.
Moorhen courtship behavior includes bowing and arching as well as nibbling. The main breeding period is March through August, though moorhen may breed year round. During breeding season the bird’s frontal shield may become enlarged and deeper red in color. A well-hidden nest is built from plants and mud, often on folded reeds.
Moorhen lay from five to nine cream-colored eggs, which are spotted with grey, black and brown, and incubate for about 22 days. The downy moorhen chick has a bright red bill and pale yellow to brown body, and is able to swim soon after hatching. Immature (juvenile) moorhen are olive-brown to grayish-brown in color.
[Photograph: Black-Crowned Night-Heron]
[Photograph Caption:]
Black-Crowned Night-Heron (Nycticorax nycticorax hoactli)
Hawaiian Name: ‘Auku‘u.
Indigenous: American continent.
‘Auku‘u—Black-Crowned Night-Heron
The night-heron is often seen on the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge as well as near the mouth of the Hanalei River. Adult night-heron are about 25 inches long and mostly gray, with yellow legs and a black head, back, and bill.
The Black-crowned night-heron in the Hawaiian Islands is indistinguishable from the North American Black-crowned night-heron. The night-heron’s wingspan is almost four feet.
Night-heron are often seen standing motionless at the edges of lagoons, marshes, canefield ditches, taro patches, and exposed reef areas. They may be heard making a fairly loud “kwok” sound while flying.
When in breeding plumage, the male night-heron develops four or five long, white head plumes; the female may have just two or three. These white nuptial plumes grow out from the back region of the bird’s head. Immature night-heron are streaked with white and brownish-rust colors that turn grayish as the bird matures.
Kohā ka leo o ka ‘auku‘u
The voice of the ‘auku‘u is heard to croak
A snooping gossip. The ‘auku‘u bird lives in the upland and goes to the lowland for fish, often snatching them from people’s ponds.”[dccclii]
The Black-crowned night-heron is a solitary wading bird that feeds primarily on crustaceans and fish. Night-heron also eat mice, frogs, aquatic insects, and chicks of other bird species (e.g., Hawaiian Black-necked stilts, Brown noddies, Sooty terns).
The night heron feeds during the night as well as during the day, but is most active at dawn and dusk, looking for prey beneath the water. Breeding occurs around May, when the night heron uses large sticks and twigs to construct a nest in a tree, and then lays two to four, bluish-green eggs.
Open Country Birds
Nēnē—Hawaiian Goose (Branta sandvicensis)
[Photograph: Nēnē]
[Photograph Caption:]
Nēnē—The Hawaiian Goose (Branta sandvicensis).
Endemic Species.
Status: Endangered Species. Found on Maui, Kaua‘i, and Hawai‘i.
Recent releases on Moloka‘i.
Nēnē—Hawaiian Goose
Kaua‘i’s nēnē population has grown rapidly during the last two decades, and nēnē flocks now inhabit many low elevation habitats, including lower Hanalei Valley, as well as higher elevations including Kōke‘e State Park.
Genetic research has revealed that there was a marked decline in the population of nēnē (and other bird species) between about 1100 A.D. and 1750 A.D. These population declines (and in some case extinctions) in native Hawaiian bird species in the centuries before Western contact with the Hawaiian Islands is generally attributed to Hawaiians hunting the birds for food.
Fossil records show that nēnē were once common at lower elevations on Kaua‘i, but then became extinct by the time Captain Cook arrived in 1778. Apparently the early Polynesian settlers had eliminated the nēnē on Kaua‘i, but the birds survived on other Hawaiian Islands. There were an estimated 25,000 nēnē living on Hawai‘i in 1778. Predatory animals, habitat destruction, hunting, and egg collecting eventually decimated the nēnē populations of all the Hawaiian Islands.
The nēnē’s ancestors are Canadian geese. They likely first arrived in the Hawaiian Islands after being blown off course or caught in a storm many thousands of years ago. The goose then evolved into a unique Hawaiian species that is now Hawai‘i’s official state bird.
Nēnē are about two feet long, typical size for geese. The head, face, and the back of the neck (the nape) are black, while the cheeks and the sides of the neck are a light tan color, with a buffy striped pattern (distinct horizontal bands). The bird’s lower body has this same light brown color and is striped, but the top of the body is a darker gray or brown.
The nēnē’s bill, legs, and feet are black. The webbing between the toes on the nēnē’s feet is much reduced compared to the fuller webbing on the feet of its ancestor, the Canadian goose. The nēnē’s webbing is an adaptation better suited for walking on high, dry lava flows, a habitat frequented by nēnē on Hawai‘i Island.
In flight, the sound of the nēnē is something like “ney ney.” On the ground, however, nēnē often make a noise more comparable to a cow’s moo. Nēnē aren’t very shy, and sometimes approach humans.
“Unele! Unele!” wahi a ka nēnē.
“Honk! Honk!” says the goose.[dcccliii]
The nēnē builds its nest on the ground and lines it with feathers. This ground nesting makes them vulnerable to non-native predators, which is one reason nēnē almost became extinct.
Ground predators of nēnē include mongooses, pigs, rats, and domestic animals. Kaua‘i is now considered the best Hawaiian Island for nēnē because there are no mongooses, which are well-established on the other Hawaiian Islands.
By the age of two, nēnē begin laying eggs, nesting between October and March, and laying on average four or five creamy, white eggs. The mother goose sits on the eggs, which incubate for about 30 days. When the mother leaves the nest she covers the eggs with downy feathers from the nest lining.
During nesting, nēnē adults go through a four to six week process called molting, and they cannot fly during this time. The infant chick is able to run around just as soon as its downy feathers dry. The chick’s parents provide food for the baby until the hatchling is about ten to twelve weeks old, when the gosling learns to fly.
Migratory Species—Seasonal Residents and Occasional Visitors
Ø Kōlea—Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva
Ø Mōlī—Laysan Albatross Diomedea immutabilis
Ø Koloa Mohā—Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata
Ø Koloa Māpu—Northern Pintail Anas acuta
Ø Hunakai—Sanderling Calidris alba
Ø Green-Winged Teal Anas crecca
Ø Blue-Winged Teal Anas discors
Ø Bufflehead Bucephala albeola
Ø Baikal Teal Anas formosa
Ø White-Faced Ibis Plegadis chihi
The migratory bird species described in this section may be seen on the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, except for sanderlings, plovers, and albatross, which are more commonly seen elsewhere in the region.
Sanderlings are often seen along the sandy shoreline of Hanalei Bay, while plovers are seen on the grass lawns of Wai‘oli Park or in the yards of local residents. Albatross are rarely seen at the Refuge but frequently seen along the ocean cliffs of Princeville and in nearby yards, as well as atop the ocean cliffs that extend toward Kīlauea and beyond.
All of these migratory bird species are considered native to the Hawaiian Islands, though some are considered non-resident migratory birds and only spend a relatively short time in Hawai‘i before moving on along their migratory routes.
[Photograph: Pacific Golden Plover]
Pacific Golden Plover (Pluvialis fulva)
Hawaiian Name: Kōlea.
Migratory: In Hawai‘i approximately from September to May.
Kōlea kai piha.
Plover, bird of high tides.
The plover feeds along the edge of the sea.[dcccliv]
Kōlea—Pacific Golden Plover
Pacific golden plovers are about eleven inches long, weigh about ½-pound, and live to about eight years of age. Plovers are dark brown, and spotted with gold on top, but paler on the underside, with a large, dark eye region and a fairly large head relative to their body.
Migrating to the Hawaiian Islands during fall to feed, plovers return north to Alaska again for the summer months to lay their eggs. This is similar to the migration pattern of koholā (humpback whales) that also spend their winters in Hawai‘i and return north for summer, but whales give birth in Hawaiian waters and feed in their northern habitat, while the plovers feed in the Islands and lay their eggs in the north.
After spending May, June, and July on the Alaskan tundra, plovers head south around August. Some plovers arrive in Hawai‘i as early as July. The plovers often arrive in flocks that disperse once they reach the Hawaiian Islands. The plover’s non-stop flight between Alaska and Hawai‘i may cover more than 3,500 miles (5,633 km) but takes less than three days.[dccclv]
Before leaving the Hawaiian Islands in April, the female plover molts into a beautiful beige-gold breeding plumage. The male plover gets a “tuxedo” look, with a pure white stripe along the sides of the head and down the neck. The abdomen, breast, cheek, and throat are black.
During its winter stay in the Hawaiian Islands, the plover feeds on insects and other invertebrates, as well as certain flowers and leaves. Plovers often run in short bursts, intermittently stopping to look for insects, and feed for about four months in the Hawaiian Islands to fatten up for the long journey north.
Plovers are known to return to the same general area each year to feed, and often return to the very same patch of lawn or pasture where they remain throughout the season. In the Hawaiian Islands the plover is very territorial, and will defend its feeding area against other plovers, though it will often ignore other bird species. Some plovers move around a bit more, and are not as territorial when it comes to their feeding grounds.
Plovers are generally solitary birds during their stay in Hawai‘i, often gathering together in large flocks just before they head north. During their long migration, plovers fly at elevations up to 20,000 feet at speeds of about 60 to 70 miles per hour, and with a tailwind they may exceed 100 mph,[dccclvi] completing the flight to the northern breeding grounds in about 50 to 60 hours.
Once plovers reach their nesting grounds on the Alaskan and Siberian tundra, the male builds a nest lined with lichens and leaves. Plovers typically lay four, greenish-brown eggs, one every other day. The eggs are incubated by the female at night and the male during the day. Males also share in the duties of caring for the chick
Less than a month after hatching, the downy goslings and ducklings begin to fledge (learn to fly). In early August the parents leave, and then the chicks follow about one or two months later. Somehow the new generation of plovers finds their way to the remote Hawaiian archipelago thousands of miles away, and then they too repeat the journey each year.
Plovers have also been seen in South Pacific Islands, and these plovers may be migrating much farther than the birds that winter in Hawai‘i. Some plovers may remain in the Hawaiian Islands during the summer months. Researchers are working to track plover migrations, estimate population size, and learn more about plovers are being coordinated through the website: www.hawaii.edu/bird. The Pacific golden plover population is currently estimated at about 2,500 birds.
[Photograph: Laysan Albatross]
Mōlī—Laysan Albatross (Diomedea immutabilis).
Hawaiian Name: Mōlī.
Migratory: Seasonal Resident (in Hawai‘i approximately from October to July).
Mōlī—Laysan Albatross
Laysan albatross are white, with black on their upper wings and around their eyes, and may be nearly three feet long with a wingspan of up to 80 inches.[dccclvii] Adult Laysan albatross weigh from five to seven pounds, making them the largest seabirds in the entire Pacific region.
Adult albatross perform elaborate courtship dances with each other along Princeville’s oceanside cliffs and other nearby coastal bluffs. Then they breed, nest, lay their eggs, and nurture their young. The fat and fluffy baby albatross sometimes appear to be even bigger than their parents.
Soon the albatross parents leave, and the young ones must learn to fly on their own. When the fledglings finally heads out to sea, they won’t return until years later when they are ready to nest.
Laysan albatross sometimes have difficulty taking off for flight unless they can run down a slope or use some other suitable launching area. Once in the air, however, Laysan albatross are superb fliers able to soar for hours without flapping their wings, and sometimes even sleeping while airborne.
Albatross may live for over 40 years, and may stay at sea up to five or more years before returning to land to nest. The birds spend the summer months 1,000 miles or more from Hawai‘i over the waters of the North Pacific. Laysan albatross feed mostly on large squid as well as the eggs of the mālolo (flying fish). The albatross fish from a sitting position on the surface, making them vulnerable to shark attacks.
Laysan albatross usually arrive in the Hawaiian Islands by late October or early November, and stay at their nesting areas until June or July. From their nesting areas the albatross may fly thousands of miles in search of food before returning to feed their young.
Laysan albatross prefer to nest in the same area where they were born, and tend to mate with the same partner for life. The female lays one egg in a nest depression, usually in November or December. The parents alternate tending the egg, which incubates for about two months before hatching.[dccclviii] After about 5½ months the chicks fledge (learn to fly).
During albatross nesting season in the Hawaiian Islands, the birds perform bizarre mating dances that include prancing around with their mate and thrusting their beaks skyward along with bill snapping and vocalizations. These courtship displays, as well as the difficulty the chicks have learning to fly, are likely reasons for the nickname “gooney bird.”
On Kaua‘i, Laysan albatross have been making a comeback, particularly at Kīlauea Lighthouse National Wildlife Refuge on the island’s north shore, and at the Pacific Missile Range Facility on Kaua‘i’s southwest shore. Most albatross in the Hawaiian archipelago are found on the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands, a group of reefs, islets and atolls located hundreds of miles northwest of Kaua‘i.
At the far northwest of the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands are the French Frigate Shoals, Midway Atoll and Kure Atoll, which are home to Hawai‘i’s largest albatross populations. Midway Atoll has the largest Laysan albatross population anywhere, with nearly 400,000 nesting pairs.
Midway also has nearly 20,000 black-footed albatross (Diomeda nigripes) and there are occasional sightings of the rarely seen short-tailed albatross (Diomedea albatrus), which is federally listed as an endangered species. The short-tailed albatross is also known as the golden gooney because of its yellow head and neck feathers and its pink bill.
[Photograph: Northern Shoveler]
Northern Shoveler (Anas clypeata)
Hawaiian Name: Koloa Mohā.
Migratory Waterbird: Winter Visitor in Hawai‘i.
Koloa Mohā—Northern Shoveler
The northern shoveler is a small duck distinguished by its orange legs and feet, its long and broad, spatulate (spoon-shaped) bill, and a patch of blue on the forewing in both sexes. Northern shovelers are about 17 to 20 inches (43 to 51 cm) long.
The male northern shoveler is dark on top with a white breast and a dark green head. The bill is black on drakes, and brown (bordered with orange) on hens. The bird’s sides and belly are rufous-colored (reddish, rusty, or chestnut), and the posterior is black.
In autumn, the male northern shoveler may have a fuzzy crescent of white in front of the eye region. Females are mottled brown (sandy) in color with an orange bill, while males have a black bill.[dccclix]
[Photograph: Northern Pintail]
Northern Pintail (Anas acuta)
Hawaiian Name: Koloa Māpu (“Wind-blown Duck”)**[dccclx]**
Migratory Waterbird: Winter Visitor in Hawai‘i (relatively common).
Koloa Māpu—Northern Pintail
The northern pintail is a relatively common visitor to the Hawaiian Islands, and is distinguished by its long slender neck, long pointed tail, and narrow, brown speculum (secondary wing feathers) with a white border on the rear edge.
The male northern pintail is about 28 inches long and generally grayish in color, with a white breast and dark brown head. A vertical line of white runs up the male’s neck and comes to a point on the side of the head.
Female northern pintails are smaller than males, measuring about 21 inches long and mottled brown in color with a gray to dark bill. The female’s sharp-pointed tail is shorter than the tail of the male. Northern pintails range from the northern parts of the Northern Hemisphere to their wintering grounds as far south as the northern parts of South America, Africa, and India.
[Photograph: Sanderling]
Sanderling (Calidris alba)
Hawaiian Name: Hunakai (“Sea Foam”)**[dccclxi]**
Migratory Seasonal Resident: Winter Visitor in Hawai‘i (approximately from August to April).
Hunakai—Sanderling
Sanderlings are often seen along the sandy shoreline of Hanalei Bay where they run along the water’s edge and dash up and down the beach with each ebb and flow of the breaking waves. As each wave recedes, the sanderling pecks away beneath the surface to feed on invertebrates.
The sanderling is about eight inches long, with black legs and a slender, black bill. The bird’s winter plumage is gray above, white below, and dark on the shoulder area. When in breeding plumage, the sanderling’s breast, back, and head are reddish brown.
[Photograph: Green-Winged Teal]
Green-Winged Teal (Anas crecca)
Migratory Waterbird: Winter Visitor in Hawai‘i.
Green-Winged Teal
The green-winged teal is generally grayish-brown, with green wings and a deep green speculum (secondary wing feathers). The belly is white, as are the shoulders, which are seen in flight. Both male and female green-winged teal measure about 14½ inches long.
The male green-winged teal has a brown to chestnut-colored (or rusty-colored) head with a green streak behind the eye (postocular). Near the green-winged teal’s shoulder is a vertical bar of white. Female green-winged teal are speckled brown in color with a light stripe of white above the eye. The bird’s legs and bill are gray.
Green-winged teal range from the northern parts of North America to their wintering grounds as far south as Central America and the West Indies. The green-winged teal that are seen in the Hawaiian Islands are mostly of the American variety, but Eurasian varieties have also been seen in the Islands.
[Photograph: Blue-winged Teal]
Blue-Winged Teal (Anas discors)
Migratory Waterbird: Occasional Winter Visitor in Hawai‘i.
Blue-Winged Teal
The blue-winged teal is a small duck measuring about 15½ inches long, with a blue-black bill, a blue patch on the forewing, and a brown breast spotted with black. The blue-winged teal has a longer bill than the green-winged teal.
The male blue-winged teal has a gray head with a crescent of white on the face curving in front of the eye, and a dark posterior flanked with white. The feet and legs are orange. Both sexes have a pale blue patch on the forewing. Female blue-winged teal are more of a mottled brown color.
Blue-winged teal range from Canada to the southern United States during their summer breeding season, and then winter as far south as Argentina.
[Photograph: Bufflehead]
Bufflehead (Bucephala albeola)
Migratory Waterbird: Occasional Winter Visitor in Hawai‘i.
Bufflehead
Bufflehead are occasional visitors to the Hawaiian Islands, and are sometimes seen on the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge.
Both male and female bufflehead are relatively small, measuring about 14 inches long. Most bufflehead seen in the Islands are females, which are darker in color (dusty brown) than males. Females also have a white spot on the cheek (white ear patch), and have a smaller bill than the male.
The bufflehead in flight reveals a large, white wing patch, which is smaller on the female than the male. The male bufflehead is predominantly white with a black back and relatively small, stubby bill. The head has a patch of white that makes the bird look somewhat like it is wearing a white bonnet. The head’s black region may show glossy purple-green.[dccclxii]
[Photograph: Baikal Teal]
Baikal Teal (Anas formosa)
Migratory Waterbird: Occasional Winter Visitor in Hawai‘i.
Baikal Teal
Another occasional visitor to Hanalei is the baikal teal, which is about 17 inches long. The male baikal teal has a cream-colored circular pattern on its cheeks, while the female is distinguished by a white spot near its bill. The male’s eyebrow stripe (supercilium) is continuous over the eye, while the female’s eyebrow stripe is broken by the eye region.
[Photograph: White-Faced Ibis]
White-Faced Ibis (Plegadis chihi)
Migratory Waterbird: Occasional Winter Visitor in Hawai‘i.
White-Faced Ibis
The white-faced ibis is occasionally seen amidst the taro fields of the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge. When not in breeding plumage (e.g., when in the Hawaiian Islands), the white-faced ibis is dark-colored with dark gray legs, a glossy green body, gray facial area, and pale streaks along the neck area. The bill is down-curved, and the iris is red (or brown when the bird is a juvenile).
In breeding plumage, the ibis’ red face area is bordered with white feathers, and its body is chestnut colored. The white-faced ibis breeds in the western region of North America.
D. Seabirds
Ø ‘Iwa—Great Frigatebird Fregata minor palmerstoni
Ø ‘A‘o—Newell’s (Townsend’s) Shearwater Puffinus auricularis newelli
Ø ‘Ua‘u Kani—Wedge-Tailed Shearwater Puffinus pacificus chlororhynchus
Ø Koa‘e Kea—White-Tailed Tropicbird Phaethon lepturus dorotheae
Ø Koa‘e ‘Ula—Red-Tailed Tropicbird Phaethon rubricauda rothschildi
[Illustration: Frigatebird (wing profile)]
[Photograph: Frigatebird, red throat pouch]
Great Frigatebird (Fregata minor palmerstoni)
Hawaiian Name: ‘Iwa (“Thief”)**[dccclxiii]**
Also called: Man-O’War.
Great Frigatebird
Often seen flying over Kaua‘i’s north shore, the great frigatebird has a forked tail, bent wings, and a wingspan that may exceed seven feet, making it appear somewhat like an ancient pterodactyl in flight.
Frigatebirds are also called “man-o’war birds,” a name given to them by sailors who thought they resembled the favorite pirate vessels known as frigates. Some ancient mariners kept frigatebirds on their ships. The sailors knew that when a frigatebird was released it would fly straight toward land, helping the sailors know which way to go. Frigatebirds feathers were also utilized in ancient Hawaiian featherwork.
There are five kinds of frigatebirds in the world, but the only type of frigatebird in Hawai‘i is ‘iwa, also known as the great frigatebird. Frigatebirds are a wide-ranging species. Frigatebirds banded in Hawai‘i have later been seen in thePhilippines.
Despite the frigatebird’s large wingspan and a body length averaging 43 inches, frigatebirds usually weigh less than three pounds. Females are black with some white feathers on the upper breast and throat, while males have all black feathers.[dccclxiv] Female frigatebirds are generally bigger than males.
He ‘iwa ho‘ohaehae nāulu.
An ‘iwa that teases the rain clouds.
A beautiful maiden or handsome youth who rouses jealous envy in others.[dccclxv]
Male frigatebirds have an inflatable red pouch of skin under their throat. They often blow up this throat (gular) pouch like a balloon, usually when they are near a colony of birds and want to get a female’s attention. In breeding season the males gather together and show off their puffed up red throat pouches.
Frigatebirds can glide for several hours with very little effort, often soaring at heights above 500 feet, the highest of any of Hawai‘i’s seabirds. This soaring ability is particularly helpful to frigatebirds because they have very little webbing between their toes and don’t land on the water if they can avoid it. Frigatebirds also lack oil glands to waterproof their feathers, and they don’t dive beneath the ocean’s surface for fish as some other seabirds do.
Frigatebirds sometimes dive extremely fast through the air, and may engage in sharp spiraling turns. They are probably the most acrobatic of all of Hawai‘i’s seabirds, and may chase and dive down upon red-footed boobies, shearwaters, and other seabirds to force them to drop or disgorge their food. Then with agility and speed the frigatebird swoops down and catches the food before it hits the water. This food piracy explains how the frigatebird got its Hawaiian name, ‘iwa, which means “thief.”
In addition to stealing food from other seabirds, frigatebirds fly low over the water and use their long, hooked bills to grab floating food, including squid, fish, newly hatched sea turtles, and even mālolo (flying fish).
Frigatebirds are migratory, traveling between their nesting areas and places where food is more plentiful. Most frigatebird nesting occurs on the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands.
Most of Hawai‘i’s frigatebirds nest on the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands, which begin hundreds of miles northwest of Kaua‘i. Frigatebirds are seen near in the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands during winter months, and are seen on the main Hawaiian Islands more often in summer.
Frigatebirds are also known to nest on Ka‘ula Island, which is about 22 miles southwest of Ni‘ihau and also on Mokumanu (“Bird Island”), off of Mōkapu Point on the east side of O‘ahu.
Frigatebirds are biennial breeders (nesting every other year), beginning at about five years of age. Frigatebirds usebranches and twigs to build relatively flat nests in bushes or other vegetation.
Females lay one white egg around March or April, and both male and female frigatebirds take turns incubating the egg. After about 1½ months, the frigatebird chick hatches and is soon covered with white, downy feathers.[dccclxvi]Shearwater chicks are fed by the adults about every 18 hours. The chick stays in the nest about 4½ months before growing adult feathers and fledging (learning to fly), which usually occurs in October.
[Photograph: Newell’s shearwater]
[Photograph: Newell’s shearwater in burrow]
Newell’s (Townsend’s) Shearwater (Puffinus auricularis newelli)
Hawaiian Name: ‘A‘o.
Endemic Subspecies.
Status: Threatened subspecies. Found on Kaua‘i, O‘ahu, and Hawai‘i.
Newell’s Shearwater
The Newell’s shearwater has a black back, a white breast, and is about 13 inches long with a wingspan that may exceed three feet. Newell’s shearwaters breed on the Hawaiian Islands from April to November, flying to their nesting colonies each day at dark and leaving again before dawn.
The sound of the Newell’s shearwater is a repeated “ah-oh,” which explains their Hawaiian name, ‘a‘o. The sounds of the birds above the colonies at night have been described as similar to the sounds of crying babies, mules, or even ghoulish laughter.
He ‘a‘o ka manu noho i ka lua, ‘a‘ole e loa‘a i ka lima ke nao aku.
It is an ‘a‘o, a bird that lives in a burrow and cannot be caught even
when the arm is thrust into the hole.
Said of a person who is too smart to be caught.[dccclxvii]
Newell’s shearwaters spend about six months over the eastern tropical Pacific before returning, usually in April, to their mountain nesting sites, which are often located in areas dense with uluhe ferns.
Newell’s shearwaters often skim close the surface of the ocean and then plunge into the water to catch fish or squid they spot from the air.[dccclxviii] Webbed feet allow the Newell’s shearwater to kick off from the water’s surface.[dccclxix]
[Photograph: Wedge-tailed shearwater]
Wedge-Tailed Shearwaters (Puffinus pacificus chlororhynchus)
Hawaiian name: ‘Ua‘u Kani.
Indigenous (migratory).
Wedge-Tailed Shearwater
The most commonly seen Hawaiian seabird offshore of the main Hawaiian Islands is the wedge-tailed shearwater. Brownish-gray and about 18 inches (46 cm) long, the wedge-tailed shearwater has a pointed beak, wedge-shaped tail, and a wingspan of about three feet. Birds in the “light phase” (most Hawaiian wedge-tailed shearwaters) are dark on top but whitish-colored underneath.
Wedge-tailed shearwaters nest in ground burrows, which are small little caves dug about two to three feet into the hillside. The shearwaters begin preparing their nests in April and lay a single white egg in June. Each parent sits on the egg for about ten days at a time as the other parent feeds at sea.
The shearwater chick hatches after about 52 days, usually in August. The parents share the duties of feeding partly digested food (regurgitated squid and fish) to the nestling. About two weeks before the chick fledges (learns to fly), the parents leave. During this time the chicks must survive on their own stored fat until they learn to fly and can seek food on their own.
Wedge-tailed shearwaters are often called “the moaning birds” because they make strange wailing or crying sounds when they are settled in their colonies, particularly at dawn and dusk. The literal translation of the wedge-tailed shearwater’s name, ‘ua‘u kani, is “calling ‘ua‘u,” which describes the sound made by the bird.
The shearwaters’ habit of gliding so close to the surface of the water that they appeared to slice or cut it caused English sailors to name the bird “wedge-tailed.”
Like Laysan albatross, wedge-tailed shearwaters return to the same location where they were born to lay their eggs.[dccclxx] The chicks hatch in July or August, and after about 3½ months the chicks fledge.[dccclxxi]
[Sidebar:]
[Photograph: Shearwater aid station at Hanalei Liquor Store]
Rescuing Shearwaters
In autumn, the fledgling Newell’s shearwaters on Kaua‘i’s north shore leave their colonies and head for the sea where they begin feeding on their own for the first time. During this maiden journey the birds often become confused by bright lights near roadways and other areas. This causes the birds to become disoriented and land, making them vulnerable to predators such as cats and dogs, and other hazards including cars.
Local residents are encouraged to rescue stranded shearwaters and leave them in small, protected cages provided at “aid stations.” Hanalei’s aid station is located near the Hanalei Liquor Store.[dccclxxii] Birds left at the aid stations are picked up each morning by state and federal wildlife biologists.[dccclxxiii]
[End Sidebar]
Red-Tailed Tropicbird (Phaethon rubricauda rothschildi)
Hawaiian Name: Koa‘e ‘Ula.
White-Tailed Tropicbird (Phaethon lepturus dorotheae)
Hawaiian Name: Koa‘e Kea.
Tropicbirds are often seen gliding over Kaua‘i’s north shore, particularly near the Kīlauea National Wildlife Refuge and along the Nāpali Coast. Their long, thin bodies effortlessly soar high above the ocean and over the mountain valleys.
The red-tailed tropicbird and the white-tailed tropicbird are both almost all white in color, but the red-tailed tropicbird has a red bill and red tail feathers while the white-tailed tropicbird has a yellow bill and white tail feathers. Both species plunge dive into the water as deep as ten feet to catch fish and squid, and tropicbirds may give a loud scream-like sound while in flight.
[Illustration: Tropicbirds soaring.]
Ke koa‘e iho ia, he manu lele no ka pali kahakō.
That is the tropic bird, one that flies at the sheer cliffs.
Said of a person who is hard to catch.[dccclxxiv]
The red-tailed tropicbird has a 44-inch wingspan and is about 39 inches long, compared to the 36-inch wingspan and 27-inch length of the white-tailed tropicbird. Red-tailed tropicbirds also have two long, red tail feathers as well as black feathers around their eyes. White-tailed tropicbirds have black eye stripes, long, white tail feathers, and black bars across their wings and back.[dccclxxv]
Tropicbirds are extremely graceful in flight, but awkward on land due to the their fully webbed feet. Breeding extends from March to October.
Red-tailed tropicbirds are known for their elaborate displays of courtship during flight, sometimes repeatedly circling each other in an upward and backwards flight motion. A tropicbird engaged in this backward flight appears a bit like it is rowing a boat, and may be nearly stationary in the wind during this elaborate courtship dance, which usually lasts less than ten seconds.
The red-tailed tropicbird lays its eggs on the ground, usually under a shrub, beach vegetation or a rock overhang. The white-tailed tropicbird may nest inland and along the coastline, and lays its egg on a crater wall or on a ledge on a steep cliff face. The chicks of both birds are fully feathered after about six weeks, and by about two months of age they learn to fly.
Ancient Hawaiians utilized feathers from both the red-tailed and white-tailed tropicbirds to make royal feather standards called kāhili, symbols of chiefly rank consisting of feather clusters attached to long poles.[dccclxxvi]
[Photograph: Side by side comparison photos of red-tailed tropicbird and white-tailed tropicbird]
‘Au i ke kai me he manu ala.
Cross the sea as a bird.
To sail across the sea. Also applied to a hill that juts out into the sea or is seen from far out at sea.[dccclxxvii]
Timeline of the History of Hanalei
c.4000 B.C.—Ancient mariners in voyaging canoes migrate outward from the Southeast Asian mainland, eventually inhabiting hundreds of Pacific islands. The seafaring voyagers first migrate from Taiwan and China to the Philippines andIndonesia, then to West Polynesia, East Polynesia, New Zealand, and eventually Tonga, Samoa, and the Hawaiian Islands.[dccclxxviii] By A.D. 1200 these ancient voyagers settle nearly every habitable island over some ten million square miles of the Pacific Ocean.
c.2500 B.C.—A shallow marine bay fills the area that is now Hanalei’s coastal plain. The bay begins a seaward regression as sea levels drop from about 4,700 years ago to about 2,050 years ago, during the middle to late Holocene epoch.[dccclxxix]
c.1500 B.C.—The Lapita, an ancient Pacific Ocean people, migrate eastward from the Bismarck Archipelago, a group of volcanic islands off the east coast of New Guinea in the southwest Pacific. The eastward expansion of this Early Eastern Lapita people continues an early migration into the Western Pacific from Southeast Asia, and eventually gives rise to the Polynesians.[dccclxxx]
c.1000 B.C.-900 B.C.—Western Polynesia (including Tonga and Samoa) is first settled and becomes the homeland of the Polynesians who develop a Proto-Polynesian language that leads to at least 36 documented Polynesian languages.[dccclxxxi]
c.500 B.C.—c.A.D. 1000—Polynesian settlers migrate north, east, and southwest, and settle Eastern Polynesia,[dccclxxxii]including the Marquesas Islands, Society Islands, Austral Islands, Cook Islands, and eventually New Zealand, Rapa Nui (Easter Island), and eventually the Hawaiian Islands.
Orthodox theories of migration state that eastern Polynesia was settled by voyagers from Samoa around 2,300 years ago, but more recent research concludes that eastern Polynesia was only settled about 1,500 years ago.[dccclxxxiii]
c.300—1000—Polynesian voyagers sailing double-hulled voyaging canoes become the first settlers of the Hawaiian Islands, probably coming from the Marquesas Islands, about 2,500 miles to the southeast. The Marquesas Islands are a ring of ten steep volcanic islands about 2,500 miles (4,023 km) southeast of Hawai‘i, 740 miles (1,191 km) northeast of Tahiti, and 3,700 miles (5,955 km) west of Peru.
In 2006, University of California archaeologist Patrick Kirch and University of Hawai‘i archaeology professor Barry Rolett affirmed their conclusions that the Hawaiian Islands were likely settled around 900 A.D., and this may have occurred even before the Marquesas Islands were settled. Bishop Museum archeologist Yosi Sinoto was skeptical of the later dates, favoring instead earlier settlement dates for the Hawaiian Islands.
Previous earlier estimates of settlement of Rapa Nui (Easter Island) as early as 400 A.D., based on radiocarbon dating, were discredited by new analyses performed by University of Hawai‘i archaeology professor Terry Hunt, who instead estimates settlement of the island at about 1250 A.D. based on dating of charcoal samples and rat-eaten palm nuts (Polynesian rats were brought to virtually all the islands that the Polynesians inhabited). Hunt’s results were published in the March, 2006 journal of Science.
The Polynesian settlers bring with them pua‘a (pigs), moa (chickens), ‘īlio (dogs), and more than two dozen species of plants that provide material for food, clothing, cordage, and many other uses. They construct houses of pili grass (twisted beardgrass) and other thatching materials fastened to a wooden frame.
The settlers clear the lowland forests to plant kalo (taro), eating the taro’s lū‘au (leaves) and pounding the underground tubers (corms) into poi, a staple of their diet. They catch a variety of fish and shellfish from the ocean, and eat honu (sea turtles) as well as limu (seaweed). In the coastal shallows they build large loko i‘a (fishponds) that they keep well stocked.
c.1200—A second major wave of immigrants to the Island, this time from Tahiti, conquer and dominate the earlier Marquesan settlers.[dccclxxxiv]
c.1200 (possibly much earlier)[dccclxxxv]—Taro is farmed in Hanalei Valley in large, irrigated pondfields known as lo‘i kalo (taro patches). Networks of ‘auwai (irrigation channels), bring water to the taro. Agricultural terraces are also cultivated on the surrounding hillsides.
c.1300—Contact with southern Polynesia ceases or severely diminishes, and Hawaiians no longer complete long-distance, open-ocean voyages. A unique Hawaiian culture continues to evolve.
The existence of the sweet potato in Polynesia by 1000 A.D. suggests South American contact because the sweet potato is indigenous to South America. Polynesians may have sailed to South America, or the sweet potato may have been brought to Polynesia or arrived by some other means.
1778, January 18—British Captain James Cook, on a voyage of discovery for England and in command of the HMS Discovery and HMS Resolution, comes in sight of O‘ahu and then Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau, becoming the first (documented) non-Polynesian to reach the Hawaiian Islands.
The following day (January 19), Cook anchors his ships off the mouth of Kaua‘i’s Wailua River, and barters with the natives. The ship’s crew trades nails and pieces of iron for water, pigs, fowl, plantains, sweet potatoes, and taro corms. On Jan. 20, 1778, Cook and some of his men go ashore for the first time at Waimea Bay on Kaua‘i’s southwest side.
c.1780—Birth of Kaumuali‘i, the future ruler of Kaua‘i, to Kā‘eokūlani [Kā‘eo] and Kamakahelei.
[Sidebar:]
King Kaumuali‘i (c.1780-1824)
Parents: Kā‘eokūlani [Kā‘eo] (father) and Kamakahelei (mother).
Grandparents: Kekaulikenuiahumanu [Kekaulike] and Holau (parents of Kā‘eokūlani [Kā‘eo]).
Son: George P. (Prince) Kaumuali‘i (Humehume).
Grandchildren: Queen Kapi‘olani, Virginia Kapo‘oloku Po‘omaikelani, and Esther Kinoiki Kekaulike (children of Kūhiō and Kinoiki).
Favorite Queen: Deborah Kapule (Kekaiha‘akūlou).
Summary of Life of Kaumuali‘i:
- Paramount ruler (king) of Kaua‘i.
- Ceded the island of Kaua‘i to King Kamehameha I in 1810, allowing King Kamehameha I to declare Hawai‘i one nation.
- Supported Russian occupation (led by Georg Anton Schäffer) of Kaua‘i in 1816.
- Pledged his allegiance to King Kamehameha II (Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho) on September 16, 1821, at Waimea, Kaua‘i, and accepted Liholiho’s sovereignty.
- Taken prisoner by King Kamehameha II (Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho) on September 16, 1821, and taken to O‘ahu.
- On October 9, 1821, Kaumuali‘i married kuhina nui (premier) Ka‘ahumanu, former queen as favorite wife of King Kamehameha I.
[End Sidebar]1810—King Kamehameha I meets Kaua‘i’s King Kaumuali‘i in Honolulu and Kaumuali‘i signs a treaty ceding Kaua‘i to Kamehameha.
To avoid war against Kamehameha’s superior forces, Kaumuali‘i agrees to place Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau under Kamehameha’s control and pledges allegiance to Kamehameha. With this act, all the islands are finally united under a single ruler, and King Kamehameha I declares Hawai‘i to be one nation. Kaumuali‘i is allowed to remain high chief of Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau under Kamehameha.
1815, January 31—The Russian ship Behring becomes stranded on the shores of Kaua‘i’s Waimea Bay. The ship’s cargo of sealskins is taken to Makaweli by King Kaumuali‘i, causing the Russian-American Company (the owner of the ship and its cargo) to send Georg Anton Schäffer to retrieve the cargo or seek appropriate payment.
1816—Kaumuali‘i, Kaua‘i’s vassal ruler, signs a document with Georg Anton Schäffer that puts Kaua‘i under the protection of the Russian Empire, though neither Schäffer nor Kaumuali‘i has the authority for such an agreement. In exchange for the ship Lydia, Schäffer is given Hanalei Valley. Presumably Schäffer is to assume something similar to the traditional role of konohiki, or headman of the Hanalei ahupua‘a (natural watershed land division), along with the land and fishing rights accompany such a position.
1816, November—Lieutenant Otto von Kotzebue arrives in Hawai‘i on the Russian Navy brig Rurik and repudiates the activities of Georg Anton Schäffer, informing King Kamehameha that Schäffer and Kaumuali‘i do not have the support of the Russian Emperor.
Problems come to a head in December when natives kill a Russian and set fire to some buildings near FortAlexander above the Hanalei rivermouth. Aleuts from Russian Alaska use water from the marsh below the fort in an attempt to extinguish the flames.[dccclxxxvi]
1824, April 5—The ship Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i (Pride of Hawai‘i), the ship-of-state of the Hawaiian monarchy, becomes shipwrecked on the reef just offshore of the mouth of the Wai‘oli River in Hanalei Bay.
Built in 1816 in Massachusetts and measuring 100 feet (30 m) long on its deck, the Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i was originally named Cleopatra’s Barge, and cost about $50,000 to build and another $50,000 to furnish (see 1995).
1831, August 27—Englishman Richard Charlton, the British Consul for Hawai‘i in Honolulu, secures a 20-year lease from Kaua‘i’s Governor Kaikio‘ewa for a portion of Hanalei from the eastern side of Hanalei Valley to Kalihiwai.
With about 100 head of cattle, Charlton begins Kaua‘i’s first cattle ranch. Charlton’s fee for use of the land is an amount of lumber totaling 560 boards, to be used for a home for King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli).[dccclxxxvii]
1832—Native Hawaiians at Wai‘oli erect a large pole-and-thatch building for use by missionaries during their visits to the area.
1832—American missionary William Patterson Alexander (a Presbyterian pastor and teacher from Kentucky), his wife Mary Ann, and their young son William DeWitt, arrive in the Hawaiian Islands. The Alexanders had previously served in the Marquesas Islands.
1834, April—The pole-and-thatch building constructed for use by missionaries at Wai‘oli burns down.
1834, August 21, 22—Reverend William Patterson Alexander, his wife Mary Ann, and their young son William DeWitt sail a double-hulled canoe belonging to Governor Kaikio‘ewa for 8½ hours from Kaua‘i’s Waimea Bay along the Nāpali coast at night, and in the morning arrive at the Wai‘oli rivermouth in Hanalei Bay. Governor Kaikio‘ewa had donated land at Wai‘oli for a school and church. The Alexanders are accompanied on their journey to Wai‘oli by about 75 people, including David (Davida) Papohaku (Stone-wall) from the church of Father Whitney at Waimea.[dccclxxxviii]
1834—Missionary William Alexander erects a cookhouse at Wai‘oli. Coral limestone blocks are cut from the shallows near the mouth of Waipā stream for use in the foundation, the front steps, and the chimney (this cookhouse later becomes part of the Wai‘oli Mission House—see 1840). (Note: These pieces of coral placed by Alexander can still be seen today at the restored Wai‘oli Mission House.)
Initially about 700 people attend worship at the Wai‘oli meetinghouse on the Sabbath, and church membership stands at 80 members.
1834—Joel P. Dedman, a neighbor of the Alexanders in Wai‘oli, receives a grant of land from Kaua‘i’s Governor Kaikio‘ewa for the cultivation of sugarcane. The mill is comprised of wooden rollers placed on end and turned by horse power. The cane is fed in from the side and crushed by the rollers to extract the juice, which is then boiled down in a whaler’s trypot.
1835—Missionaries estimate the population of the Halele‘a district at 3,107 people.[dccclxxxix]
1836—Reverend William Alexander begins acquiring native ‘ōhi‘a lehua timber from the mountains behind the Wai‘oli mission for a Western-style frame house at Wai‘oli.
1836, October—Missionary Hiram Bingham visits the Alexanders at Wai‘oli. During this time the Alexanders have their third son. In November, the frame of the new Mission House is erected.
c.1836—Englishman Captain Kellett, known for his long, white hair, arrives in Hanalei and becomes Hanalei’s Pilot of the Port. Kellett later constructs a house on a bluff known as Lanihuli, which overlooks the ocean near the mouth of the Hanalei River. Kellett lives in the Lanihuli house for many years.
1836-1844—Charles Titcomb leases 90 acres of land on the Hanalei River from King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli) and attempts to build an industry of silk production in Hanalei, including an extensive cocoonery.
By 1840, about 100,000 mulberry trees are growing, and this is enough to feed an estimated 500,000 silkworms imported from China and America.[dcccxc]
1837—The new Wai‘oli Mission House is completed. The two-story, four-room, Western-style, timber-framed structure becomes home to the Alexanders.
1837—Edward Johnson and his wife Lois arrive at the Wai‘oli mission from New Hampshire to help Reverend Alexander direct the Wai‘oli mission schools and begin a Select School for older boys.
Also in 1837, winds destroy the missionary meetinghouse at Wai‘oli. The structure is erected again, but plans are begun for a more durable structure, which is completed in 1841.
1838, January 27—The framing and thatching is completed on a 40-foot by 24-foot (12-m by 7-m) schoolhouse at Wai‘oli. A Western style, wood-framed home is built for Reverend and Mrs. Johnson, who teach at the Wai‘oli mission station. The home is constructed adjacent to the home of the Alexanders (the Wai‘oli Mission House).
1839—Seven acres of sugar cane are planted at Wai‘oli to raise money to build a church and schoolhouse.
1840s—Throughout the 1840s the valleys of Hanalei and Wai‘oli produce an abundance of fruits, including oranges, peaches, pineapples, and bananas. Coffee soon becomes a dominant crop in the region, and cattle ranching also becomes a significant land use.
Taro is still grown, but the acreage farmed for taro decreases due to Western influences that lead to a decrease in traditional food production, and foreign diseases that result in a tragic decline in the native population.
1840—The Alexanders are visited at Wai‘oli by members of the Wilkes Expedition, a United States exploring expedition.
Also in 1840, Reverend William Alexander adds a dining room and pantry to the Wai‘oli Mission House, and the new structure connects the cookhouse and the main mission dwelling.
1840s—Hubertson’s Store, Hanalei’s first trading store, is built and run near the Hanalei rivermouth by an Englishman named Hubertson.
1840-1841—Richard Charlton, the British Consul in Honolulu, has about 100 head of cattle on his Hanalei cattle ranch. The beef is considered by many to be the finest available in the Hawaiian Islands, and is also of a more reasonable price than found elsewhere in the Islands.
1841, November—A new Wai‘oli Church meetinghouse is built in the Western style, timber-framed, using logs of native ‘ōhi‘a lehua. The building is plastered on the inside and outside using lime from coral for the masonry, and has a main interior space of 35 feet by 70 feet (21 m).[dcccxci] The Wai‘oli Belfry is built next to the new church in the tradition of English and Colonial American missionary churches. Like the church, the Belfry also uses structural beams made from ‘ōhi‘a lehua. The Belfry has a thatched exterior.
1842, September 8—Frenchman John Bernard and British subject Godfrey Rhodes obtain a 50-year Government lease of land in Hanalei Valley and begin the Hanalei Coffee Plantation, the first commercial coffee plantation in the Hawaiian Islands.[dcccxcii] The land is comprised of 90 acres (36 ha) on the east bank of the Hanalei River and 60 acres (24 ha) on the west side of the river.
1843—Reverend George B. Rowell arrives at the Wai‘oli mission station along with his wife Malvina, and replaces Reverend William Alexander. Alexander and his wife, Mary Ann, go to the Lahainaluna Seminary on Maui, and the Rowells move into the Mission House. Lahainaluna Seminary was established in 1831 as Hawai‘i’s first English school, and had the goal of advancing education for young Hawaiian men while training them to become teachers and ministers.
Church membership at Wai‘oli is 180, up from 27 in 1837.[dcccxciii] More than 400 youth of the Halele‘a district, about one-sixth of the population, attend mission schools.[dcccxciv]
1843—A church bell for the Wai‘oli Church arrives from Boston and is placed in the Wai‘oli Belfry.
1844—Charles Titcomb abandons his attempt to build an industry of silk production in Hanalei after he encounters insect pests, high winds, labor problems, and a drought. Titcomb begins a coffee plantation, and children of the missionary-run Select School at Wai‘oli are hired to tend to the thousands of coffee plants.[dcccxcv] The students are also allowed to plant beans between the rows of coffee for their own use.
1845, April 18—Frenchman John Bernard leaves Honolulu for Kaua‘i on the schooner Paalua. Tragically, the Paaluasinks a few hundred yards offshore of Hanalei Bay on April 19, 1845 in a heavy squall, killing Bernard along with several others.[dcccxcvi] Several Hawaiians on the boat make it safely to shore.
1845, June 16—The Hanalei Valley estate of Frenchman John Bernard is bought by John K. Von Pfister and Godfrey Rhodes. The plantation covers about 100 acres, and becomes known as the Rhodes & Co. Coffee Plantation. (Rhodes had recently returned from Australia.)
A coffee mill is built just above the current site of the Hanalei Bridge (not erected until 1912). Rhodes also builds a two-room stone house called Kikiula on the hill above the ridge. Kikiula later becomes known as the Princeville Plantation House and then the Princeville Ranch House, and is home to a succession of Princeville Plantation managers.
1845—Captain Jules Dudoit, the first French Consul to Hawai‘i, buys the lease to the Charlton Ranch lands in Hanalei. After retiring from the consulship, Dudoit moves to Hanalei with his family, and exports butter and beef, packing salt beef for whaling ships and shipping beef to Honolulu.
1846, July 15—American Protestant missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox board the schooner Emelia with their four children and sail to Hanalei Bay from O‘ahu, where Abner ran the Manual Labor Boarding School. For the next 23 years the Wilcoxes served at the Wai‘oli mission station.
1848, January 27—The Great Māhele is begun by King Kamehameha III, dividing up Hawai‘i’s land between the king and 245 chiefs, and replacing Hawai‘i’s traditional land use practices with a new system of private property ownership.
The Māhele (“Division”) is completed on March 7, 1848 and the following day the king divides the remaining land between the king and the government. The end result is that about 24% of Hawai‘i’s land is owned by the king (Crown lands); 37% is owned by the government; and 38% is given to the ruling ali‘i (chiefs).
The land given to the ali‘i (ruling chiefs) was primarily the portion of Hawai‘i’s lands that became today’s private lands that are sold and traded.
1848—In association with the Government, American Joseph Gardner grows cotton at Wai‘oli, and runs a cotton and woolen cloth mill with a loom and several spinning wheels.[dcccxcvii] Gardner is placed in charge of all Government sheep.
1850—The Kuleana Act is passed to define the land rights of maka‘āinana (commoners) on lands they have cultivated, referred to as kuleana. The Act authorizes a Land Commission to grant land titles, and about 11,000 maka‘āinana are granted 28,600 acres (11,574 ha). This is only about 1% of the available land, though much of it is located in prime agricultural areas.
Requirements for maka‘āinana (commoners) seeking land grants included having the land surveyed, filing a claim with the Land Commission, and proving the land was being cultivated to earn a living
The Board of Commissioners to Quiet Land Titles was usually simply called the Land Commission, and was appointed in December of 1845 by King Kamehameha II to determine land rights. In November of 1846, commoners were given the right to buy the land they cultivated in November of 1846, but the process for this to occur was not enacted into law until August of 1850. The Land Commission was dissolved in 1855.
Requirements for maka‘āinana seeking land grants included having the land surveyed, filing a claim with the Land Commission, and proving the land was being cultivated to earn a living. The Legislature also passes a law that allows non-Hawaiians (resident aliens) to own land in Hawai‘i, and by 1890, more than 75 percent of lands originally granted to chiefs is owned by non-Hawaiians.
The massive loss of Hawaiian-owned lands to non-Hawaiians was exacerbated by a law passed by the Legislature in 1874 removing mortgage transactions from the courts and placing them in private hands. This resulted in huge losses of lands by natives to non-Hawaiians in the 1880s. The law was said to have allowed lenders to foreclose without notice and then buy the land in a rigged auction.
1850s—More than 100,000 coffee trees are growing in Hanalei Valley on the coffee plantation of Charles Titcomb and the neighboring plantation belonging to Bernard and Rhodes. Titcomb’s coffee mill consists of a mule turning a perpendicular post fitted at the top with a horizontal cog wheel that turns a flay wheel connected by bands to the milling machinery.
1851—Archibald Archer and Gottfried Wundenberg plant tobacco at Limunui on the banks of the Hanalei River. Prospects for their crop and other attempts to grow tobacco appear favorable for about two years before a cutworm devastates the tobacco crop along with any hopes for a tobacco industry in Hanalei Valley.
1853, March 14—Scotsman Robert Crichton Wyllie, the Minister of Foreign Affairs for the Hawaiian Kingdom, pays $1,300 for Government (Crown) lands leased to the Rhodes & Co. Coffee Plantation in Hanalei Valley. The importation of Chinese laborers and the end of a period of drought help restore coffee production to profitable levels, but then a blight poses a new threat to the crop.
1853—The Akamai, an interisland steamer formerly known as the SB Wheeler, makes its first regular run between Kaua‘i and O‘ahu. The 106-foot (32-m) long, 114-ton (103-mton) side-wheeler stops at Hanalei and takes on a cargo that includes 14,000 pounds of coffee from the Rhodes & Co. Coffee Plantation.
1855, September 13—Robert Crichton Wyllie purchases Godfrey Rhodes’ business interest in his coffee plantation for $8,000. Gottfried Frederick Wundenberg moves from Honolulu to Hanalei to oversee the plantation.
1856—King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani) and his wife, Queen Emma visit Kaua‘i as part of a “Royal Progress” through the Hawaiian Islands. The royal couple visit the coffee plantation of Charles Titcomb in Hanalei. The name of Titcomb’s estate is later changed to “Emmasville” to honor Queen Emma.
1857—Cattle around the port of Hanalei number in the thousands, and generally run wild. The beef packing industry of earlier years no longer exists due to the lack of ability to bring the product to market.
1860—Wai‘oli Mission statistics estimate the district’s population at 1,641, down from 3,107 in 1835.[dcccxcviii] During the 1800s, measles and whooping cough epidemics as well as other foreign diseases take many lives in the Hanalei region and throughout the Hawaiian Islands. The native population of the Islands at this time is about 69,800 people, and continues to decline from an estimated 300,000 people living in Hawai‘i at the time of first Western contact (1778).[dcccxcix]
Foreign diseases that decimated the native population included measles, smallpox, Asiatic cholera, whooping cough, scarlet fever, diphtheria, influenza, bubonic plague, dysentery, and others.
1860—King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani) and his wife Queen Emma visit Kaua‘i with their two-year-old son, Prince Albert Kauikeaouli. The royal family stays at the Hanalei estate of Robert Crichton Wyllie, the Minister of Foreign Affairs for the Hawaiian Kingdom.
To honor Prince Albert, Wyllie changes the name of his estate to Princeville Plantation, and makes the young prince the estate’s intended heir. Tragically, Prince Albert passes away in 1862 at the age of four, and then the following year his father, King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani), passes away at the age of 29.
1861—Robert Crichton Wyllie processes sugarcane at a mule-powered mill at his Hanalei estate, and in 1862, he completes construction on the Hanalei Sugar Mill on the east bank of the Hanalei River just downriver from the Hanalei Bridge.
The Hanalei Sugar Mill has a 110-foot (34-m) smokestack and includes $40,000 worth of machinery purchased from Glasgow, Scotland, making it the most modern and productive sugar mill in the Hawaiian Islands.
1862—Louise Johnson begins the first English school in the Halele‘a district. Known as the Hanalei English School, it becomes a public school in 1881.
1863—Robert Crichton Wyllie harvests his first crop of sugar. His Hanalei Sugar Mill eventually becomes the center of a small but busy factory village that includes a post office, storage buildings, camphouses, and a butcher shop.
1863—The Sandwich Islands Mission becomes independent, and is no longer supported by the American Mission Board. As part of the missionaries’ pensions, the Wai‘oli Mission House is deeded to Abner Wilcox.
1863, March 2—A fire burns down the Wai‘oli schoolhouse. In a Wai‘oli Select School report, Abner Wilcox describes the event: “Being covered with thatch, the flames spread with great rapidity, and very little could be saved. A few books and slates were snatched from the flames by those who first arrived on the ground.”[cm]
Some of the large timbers were salvaged and used to start the foundation of a new schoolhouse, which was built by Abner Wilcox with the help of his son George. The Board of Education assisted them in acquiring materials for the structure.
1864, October 3—A Roman Catholic chapel is dedicated on the western bank of the Hanalei river near the rivermouth. A tall and slender, wooden Church Belfry was built on the church site around 1900 by Father Sylvester, who had long served the Hanalei area.
1865, October 19—Robert Crichton Wyllie, the owner of the Princeville Plantation, passes away. Wyllie’s principal heir is his nephew, Robert Crichton Cockrane, who arrives in Hawai‘i from Waltham, Illinois to learn the sugarcane business from manager John Low.
1869—Wai‘oli missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox make a return visit to their original home in Connecticut. They intend to return to Kaua‘i, but sadly they both contract malarial fever just a few days after arriving at their New England home, and they pass away within one week of each other.
1870s-1960—Rice becomes the dominant agricultural product grown in Hanalei. Rice is first cultivated by Chinese and then by Japanese and Filipino immigrants, as well as others. By 1882 Hanalei Valley is almost completely cultivated in rice.
1874, March 17—The newly elected King Kalākaua arrives in Hanalei on the steamer Kilauea and is greeted by a royal 21-gun salute. The “guns” are actually large logs of ‘ōhi‘a lehua that are bored out and packed with gunpowder. Hanalei was the first stop on the monarch’s royal tour of the Hawaiian Kingdom.
1879—Five Chinese farmers become the first Chinese to lease land from the Princeville Plantation, leasing 42 acres ofHanalei Valley land for $15/acre/year.[cmi] The Hanalei Valley land was part of the former plantation of Charles Titcomb, likely in the area crossed by Nukuhuli Stream near the current Hanalei Center (Wailele Building).
1880—An established Chinese rice factoring company, the Chulan company, leases 300 acres of Hanalei Valley land from the Princeville Plantation for $20/acre/year.
1880—Princeville Plantation employs about 200 laborers and has 900 breeding stock, 400 head working stock, and at least 150 steers. About 200 acres of rice grow in Hanalei Valley and about 100 acres of sugarcane are cultivated on the upper slopes.
1881, September 23—Princess Regent Lili‘uokalani, the future queen, arrives by ship at Hanalei Bay. The next day, Lili‘uokalani travels to Kīlauea to commemorate the Kīlauea Sugar Corporation’s purchase of a railroad engine and 24 railroad cars to carry sugarcane as well as three miles of track. Princess Lili‘uokalani strikes two hard blows to drive in the ceremonial first spike. At the time, Lili‘uokalani’s brother, King Kalākaua was on a world tour, and thus Lili‘uokalani was serving as Regent in his absence.
1884—The Chinese population of Hanalei is 459, increasing to 689 by 1896.[cmii]
c.1890—The former residence of Mr. and Mrs. Edward and Lois H. Johnson at Wai‘oli, originally built near the Wai‘oli Mission House, is moved east and closer to the ocean to a site across from the current Hanalei Pavilion and adjacent to the Wilcox estate.
1892—The first Hanalei Pier is built of wood on the eastern side of Hanalei Bay near the mouth of the Hanalei River.
1892—Hanalei and Wai‘oli Valleys produce about 750 acres of rice, of the 7,321 acres of rice grown in the Hawaiian Islands. Mokulē‘ia in O‘ahu is the second largest rice producing area in the Islands, with 738 acres in cultivation, followed by Waikīkī, with 542 acres planted in rice.[cmiii]
1893—At least five rice mills operate in the Hanalei region, including one near the Hanalei River about midway between the Hanalei Bridge and Hanalei town. The earliest rice mills consisted of two large mill stones that raised a pestle-shaped stone and dropped it into a stone bowl.
1894—The Hanalei Sugar Mill is shut down by C. Brewer & Co.
1895—Albert Spencer Wilcox, the son of pioneering Wai‘oli missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox, secures complete ownership of the Princeville Plantation and converts much of the land into a cattle ranch.
c.1895—A bridge is constructed over the Hanalei River, replacing a hand-pulled ferry. A steep wagon road leads down to the bridge, and carriages traveling on the incline often need assistance from people on horses who help to slow the carriage’s descent, or help to pull the carriage up the hill. The wagon road ends at Hanalei and beyond that point there is only a trail. (See 1912).
1895—Eric Knudsen writes in his journal: “Rice field and taro patches covered the flat bottom lands as far as the eye could see...many Chinamen were working in the fields.”[cmiv]
1896—Kauikeōlani (the Albert Spencer Wilcox Beach House), is built near the shoreline of Hanalei Bay and becomes the home of A.S. Wilcox and his wife Emma Kauikeōlani Napoleon Mahelona.
1909-1919—Joseph Hughes Moragne, Kaua‘i’s first county engineer, helps to create the “Belt Road” around Kaua‘i, including the road from Hanalei to Hā‘ena.
1910—Walter Foss Sanborn builds the first Western-style house “beach house” directly bordering the beach in Hanalei.
1912—The Hanalei Bridge is erected over the Hanalei River at the bottom of the hill descending into Hanalei Valley. The new Pratt-truss steel bridge replaces the previous iron-truss bridge, which had been erected around 1895 just upriver from the site of the new bridge.
1912—A new pier is constructed on Hanalei Bay, replacing the former Hanalei Pier. The new Hanalei Pier is built to meet the needs of Hanalei’s thriving rice industry, and it is constructed using the new technique of reinforced concrete.
1912—Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church is built by Sam, George, and Albert Wilcox in honor of their parents, Abner and Lucy Wilcox. The spired, green church is notable for its beautiful stained glass windows as well as its bell tower, which holds the bell brought from Boston in 1843 that was initially located in the Wai‘oli Belfry. Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church is originally a Congregational Church until 1957, when it becomes a United Church of Christ.
1914—Charles, Elsie, and Mabel Wilcox, and their parents Samuel and Emma Wilcox, along with Ethel Damon, buy five adjoining beachfront lots in Hanalei at an auction. Mabel and Charles plan a house known as Mahamoku (“Island of peace”), which is built by Sam Itchioka of Līhu‘e.
1914—The telephone directory lists eight general merchandising stores (seven Chinese-owned) as well as twelve Chinese rice planting companies in the Hanalei region.[cmv]
1915—Norwegian Hans Peter Fayé, the nephew of prominent sugar planter Valdemar “Kanuka” Knudsen, builds a home on land fronting Hanalei Bay.
1915—Renowned author Jack London (1876-1916) attends a lū‘au (feast) in Niumalu with Walter Foss Sanborn, and then the two men drive to Hanalei Bay where London boards a steamer that takes him to Honolulu. London leaves for California in July of 1915, but returns to the Hawaiian Islands in December and stays until July of 1916.
1919—The 110-foot smokestack of the Hanalei Sugar Mill is torn down, and the bricks are sold to the Kīlauea Sugar Company.
1921—Elsie Wilcox, Mabel Wilcox and Lucy Etta Wilcox Sloggett, granddaughters of Wai‘oli missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox, undertake a complete and extensive restoration of the Wai‘oli Mission House and Wai‘oli Mission Hall (the former Wai‘oli Church).
1926—The Territory of Hawai‘i constructs a new schoolhouse at Wai‘oli.
1928—At a cost of $150,000, a 3,558-foot tunnel is built through rock to divert water into the Hanalei Tunnel from the Ka‘āpoko tributary of the Hanalei River.[cmvi]
1929—Electricity becomes available in Hanalei from the Wainiha Power Plant, which was built in 1908 to provide power to McBryde Sugar Company in ‘Ele‘ele.[cmvii]
1930—The Haraguchi Rice Mill is built on the west bank of the Hanalei River, just upriver from the Hanalei Bridge, and on the site where another mill, the Man Sing (“Million Success”) Mill, had previously stood before it burned down in 1930. Man Sing sold his rice mill to the Haraguchis in 1924.
1930s—At least four rice mills operate in the Hanalei region, including the Hiramoto Mill (formerly Hee Fat Mill) at Waipā; the Ching Young Mill in Hanalei town; the Nakatsuji Mill (formerly Hop Chong Wai Mill, managed by Ah Hoy) just east of the Wai‘oli Bridge; and the Haraguchi Mill, on the site of the old Man Sing Mill just upriver from the Hanalei Bridge.[cmviii]
1934—A lū‘au (feast) is held to celebrate the Wai‘oli Mission Centennial.
1952—The Wai‘oli Mission House is incorporated as a museum.
1955—St. Williams Catholic Church is constructed in Hanalei town at the intersection of Route 560 and Mālolo Road after a land trade between the Catholic Church and Gaylord Parke Wilcox. The former Language School building is moved to a lot on the Hanalei Bay shoreline that was once the site of the Sloggett Beach House.
The former Japanese Language School building became part of the Sasaki home complex.[cmix]
1966—A parsonage is built near Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church.
1968, July—Harry Trueblood of Eagle County Development Corporation, a Denver-based subsidiary of Consolidated Oil and Gas Company, purchases all but about 50 acres of the Princeville Ranch from a subsidiary of American Factors Ltd. (Amfac), including about 11,000 acres (4,452 ha) of Princeville land, 7,000 acres (2,833 ha) of agricultural land, and 4,000 acres (1,619 ha) of forest reserve conservation land.[cmx]
1968—Princeville owners receive approval from the Land Use Commission for urban districting on 995 acres. In the 1970s the development of a major resort area begins.
1972—Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge is established on 917 acres (371 ha) in Hanalei Valley.
1973—Three Wai‘oli Mission structures are placed on the National Register of Historic Places: the Wai‘oli Mission House (built from 1834-1837); the Wai‘oli Mission Hall (the former Wai‘oli Church, built in 1841); and the Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church (built in 1912).
1973—The Hanalei Canoe Club is established as an extension of the Hanalei Hawaiian Civic Club. The State Championship Regatta is held in Hanalei Bay, and Hanalei Canoe Club takes first place. The State contest now takes place in Hanalei Bay every four years.
1977—The Princeville Center opens, offering 27,000 square feet (2,508 sq.m.) of space for rent.
1978—Thirty-three boats sail 2,120 miles (3,412 km) from California’s Golden Gate Bridge to Hanalei Bay in the first annual Singlehanded TransPacific Yacht Race. Twenty-two boats finish the race.
1979—Archaeologists excavate the interior floor of the 1841 Wai‘oli Mission Hall (the former Wai‘oli Church). After the excavation, extensive repairs are undertaken to stabilize the building.
1982—Princeville Hotel Corporation is formed with the intent of constructing a major luxury hotel at Pu‘upōā on the shoreline of the east side of Hanalei Bay. The Sheraton Princeville Hotel opens in September of 1985 with 300 rooms available for visitors. The development of the Prince Golf Course begins in 1986.
1987—The Qintex Group of Queensland, Australia purchases the Sheraton Princeville Hotel. In 1989, construction begins on the 60,000 square-foot Prince Clubhouse adjacent to the Prince Golf Course. In 1991 the hotel is extensively refurbished, upgraded to a 5-star standard, and renamed Sheraton Mirage Princeville.
1992, September 11—Hurricane ‘Iniki makes a direct hit on Kaua‘i. More than 70% of Kaua‘i’s homes are damaged and 1,421 homes are completely destroyed, including 279 homes in Princeville. The hurricane causes more than $3 billion in property damage on Kaua‘i, and the Princeville Hotel requires $30 million in repairs.
1995—The Smithsonian Institution’s Dr. Paul Forsythe Johnston uses remote sensing equipment in Hanalei Bay to discover the buried location of the wreckage of Ha‘aheo o Hawai‘i (Cleopatra’s Barge), the Hawaiian monarchy’s former ship-of-state, which sank in 1824. Archaeological excavation of the wreck occurs during the summers of 1995 and 1996.
1998, July 30—President Bill Clinton formally designates the Hanalei River as an American Heritage River, making it one of just 14 rivers nationwide to receive the Heritage designation, and the only tropical waterway to receive the designation. On May 6, 2003 the Hanalei Heritage River Program receives a $700,000 grant from the Environmental Protection Agency toward the protection of the Hanalei ahupua‘a watershed.[cmxi]
2005—The 9,000-acre (3,642 ha) Princeville Resort is sold for $200 million to Honolulu-based real estate developer Jeffrey R. Stone, a Honolulu investment consortium known as Hawai‘i Land Development Corporation, and Morgan Stanley Real Estate Funds.
Hawai‘i Land Development Corporation is now Princeville Associates LLC, a venture company owned by Stone. Hanalei Land Development was recently a minority investor in the purchase of Honsador Lumber. Jeffrey Stone was previously involved in the purchase of O‘ahu’s Ka Olina Resort in 1998. Morgan Stanley Real Estate Funds is a subsidiary of Morgan Stanley investment and credit service.
The sale includes the Princeville Hotel along with the resort’s two golf courses, the Princeville Tennis Club and Pro Shop, Princeville Health Club and Spa, the Princeville Shopping Center, and other north shore lands.
Appendix I--Polynesian-Introduced Species
The following plants and animals were brought to the Hawaiian Islands by the early Polynesian settlers on their voyaging canoes, and were an integral part of traditional Hawaiian culture
Polynesian-Introduced Animals
‘Īlio (Canis familiaris, dogs)
Moa (Gallus gallus, chickens)
Pua‘a (Sus scrofa, pigs)
Polynesian-Introduced Plants
‘Ape (Elephant’s-ear, Alocasia macrorrhizos)
‘Auhuhu (Tephrosia purpurea)
‘Awa (Kava, Piper methysticum)
‘Awapuhi Kuahiwi (Shampoo Ginger, Zingiber zerumbet)
Ipu (Bottle Gourd, Lagenaria siceraria)
Kalo (Taro, Colocasia esculenta)
Kamani (Alexandrian Laurel, Calophyllum inophyllum)
Kī (Ti, Cordyline fruticosa)
Kō (Sugarcane, Saccharum officinarum)
Kukui (Candlenut, Aleurites moluccana)
Laukahi (Native Plantain, Plantago species)
Mai‘a (Banana Plant, Musa species)
Milo (Portia Tree, Thespesia populnea)
Niu (Coconut Palms, Cocos nucifera)
Noni (Indian Mulberry, Morinda citrifolia)
‘Ohe (Bamboo, Schizostachyum glaucifolium)
‘Ōhi‘a ‘Ai (Mountain Apple, Eugenia malaccense)
‘Ōlena (Turmeric, Curcuma longa)
Pia (Polynesian Arrowroot, Tacca leontopetaloides)
‘Uala (Sweet Potato, Ipomoea batatas)
Uhi (Yam, Dioscorea alata)
Pi‘a (Yam, Dioscorea pentaphylla)
Hoi (Yam, Dioscorea bulbifera)
‘Ulu (Breadfruit, Artocarpus altilis)
Wauke (Paper Mulberry, Broussonetia papyrifera)
Complete List of Sources
for
Hanalei History
Note: All Hawaiian words in this text include proper diacritical marks, including the ‘okina (hamzah, or glottal stop) and kahakō (macron), except when the word is cited directly as part of a title or in a direct quote, in which case the words are spelled as originally published.
See Appendix 1: Note On Sources for more information about diacritical marks; objectivity; Hawaiian word spellings and meanings; scientific, cultural, and historic information; new research and discoveries; verifying dates and details of historic events; and Hawaiian sovereignty and other native issues.
[Note: This list is still in progress and being updated.]
Abbott, Isabella Aiona. Lā‘au Hawai‘i: Traditional Hawaiian Uses of Plants. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1992.
A Brief History of the Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church. Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church Bulletin, 2003.
A Brief History of Tour Boats on the North Shore of Kaua‘i. Environment Hawai‘i: volume 8, Number 6, December, 1997. Internet site: http://planet-hawaii.com/environment/1297history.htm, 3/26/2003.
Acapulco Gold (1972). MSN Entertainment. Internet site: http://entertainment.msn.com/Movies/Movie.aspx?m=504466, 3/28/2003.
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Adams, Wanda. Road to Hanalei an experience in itself. The Honolulu Advertiser, 4/06/2003.
Alexander, James M. Mission Life in Hawaii. Memoir of Rev. William P. Alexander. Pacific Press Publishing Co., 1888.
Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843). Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934.
Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934.
Alexander, William DeWitt. Private Journal of a Tour of Kauai (Written by William DeWitt Alexander, when a boy of sixteen, in 1849). Read to the Kauai Historical Society, May 8, 1933.
Antony and Cleopatra: Scene II. Rome. The house of Lepidus. Internet site: http://the-tech.mit.edu/Shakespeare/cleopatra/cleopatra.2.2.html, 12/08/2002.
Athens, Stephen J. Prehistoric Pondfield Agriculture in Hawai‘i: Archaeological Investigations at the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, Kaua‘i. Prepared for the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. Ms. 060283, Department of Anthropology, Bishop Museum, Honolulu, 1983; Carol Silva provided historical research utilizing the Public Archives of Hawai‘i, Honolulu; the Library of the Bishop Museum, Honolulu; and the Library and Files of the State Historic Preservation Division (SHPD). Other information came from the Department of Land and Natural Resources (DLNR), Honolulu; Dr. William Kikuchi, Kaua‘i Community College; the State Historic Preservation Division.
At Home in the Islands: Graham Nash builds Our House on Hanalei Bay. Internet site: http://www.islander-magazine.com/nash.html, 12/27/2002.
Au, Laurie. 200 small whales linger in Kauai’s Hanalei Bay. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 7/04/2004.
Autopsy finds Melon-head whale died of starvation. The Garden Island, 7/29/2004.
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Bird, Isabella L. Six Months in the Sandwich Islands. 1875, Reprint. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press for Friends of the Library of Hawaii, 1964.
Bird of Paradise (1951). MSN Entertainment. Internet site: http://entertainment.msn.com/Movies/Movie.aspx?m=492076, 3/29/2003.
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Borg, Jim. Genetic research offers intriguing new view of Polynesian migrations. Hawaii Magazine, February, 1997.
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Bovard Studios, Inc. Stained Glass Windows: Windows for the Soul. Internet site: http://www.bovardstudio.com/gallery/windows_for_the_soul_pages.aspx?pg=066-Waioli-Huiia-Church.html, 4/11/2003.
Calhoun, R. Scott, and Fletcher, Charles H. Measured and predicted sediment yield from a subtropical, heavy rainfall, steep-sided river basin: Hanalei, Kauai, Hawaiian Islands. Geomorphology 30 (1999) 213-226.
Ching Young Village History Page. Internet site: http://www.chingyoungvillage.com/history.htm, 1/10/2003.
Choo, David K. Agriculture Poi Story. Internet site: http://www.hawaiibusiness.cc/hb82001/default.cfm?articleid=10, printed 1/27/2003.
Clark, John R. K. Beaches of Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1990.
Conrow, Joan. Haraguchi Rice Mill site of yagura-raising effort. The Garden Island, 4/13/2004.
Conrow, Joan. Kauai man sounds 164-year-old royal conch: The shell was recovered from King Kamehameha II’s sunken royal yacht in Hanalei. Honolulu Star-Bulletin. Internet site: http://starbulletin.com/98/07/31/news/story5.html, 12/06/2002.
Conrow, Joan. Picture Perfect?: The changing face of Hanalei. Kaua‘i Business Report, May, 2003.
Conrow, Joan. Taro-Birds-Trouble. Internet site: http://starbulletin.com/96/04/01/news/story1.html, 1/27/2003.
Cook, Chris. Hanalei road listed on National Register of Historic Places. The Garden Island.
Cook, Chris. Kaua‘i surfers conquer King’s Reef at Hanalei. The Garden Island, 11/29/1996.
Cook, Chris. Louise Marston of Tahiti Nui: 1928-2003. The Garden Island, 10/12/2003.
Cook, Chris. New book tells story of Waimea’s Russian Fort from Hawaiian perspective. The Garden Island, 5/26/2002.
Cook, Chris. No Hanalei link for folk song ‘Puff the Magic Dragon.’ The Garden Island, 7/25/2004.
Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu: Hawai‘i, 2002.
Cook, Chris. Robeson, Wilcox honored for preserving Hanalei Bridge: Statewide Historic Hawai‘i Foundation conference opens. The Garden Island, 5/15/2003.
Cooper, George, and Daws, Gavan. Land and Power in Hawaii: The Democratic Years. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1985.
Culliney, John L. Islands in a Far Sea: Nature and Man in Hawaii. San Francisco: Sierra Club Books, 1988.
Curtis, Paul. Nishii returns to Princeville Corporation: Yasuno announces retirement. The Garden Island, 4/20/2003.
Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden. Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931.
Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
Davies, Theo. An Account of the First Visit to the Island of Kauai in September 1860. Transcription from the original journal written in longhand on board S. S. “Ariel”, on the Atlantic, 22nd August, 1862.
Day, A. Grove. History Makers of Hawaii: A Biographical Dictionary. Honolulu: Mutual Publishing, 1984.
Dickey, Lyle A. Hanalei Place Names. Read at the meeting of the Kauai Historical Society, Oct. 22, 1934. On file at Kaua‘i Historical Society.
DNA tests trace Polynesians to China origins. The Honolulu Advertiser, 8/11/1998.
Donohugh, Donald. The Story of Kōloa: A Kaua‘i Plantation Town. Honolulu, Hawai‘i: Mutual Publishing, 2001.
Dorrance, William H., and Morgan, Francis S. Sugar Islands: The 165-Year Story of Sugar in Hawai‘i. Honolulu: Mutual Publishing, 2000.
EPA grant to help evaluate Hanalei waters. The Honolulu Advertiser, 6/02/2003.
Evenhuis, Neal L., and Eldredge, Lucius G., Editors. Records of the Hawaii Biological Survey for 2000. Bishop Museum Occasional Papers, Number 68, 69. Honolulu: Bishop Museum, 3/25/2002; Wagner, Warren L., and Herbst, Derral R. Electronic Supplement to the Manual of the Flowering Plants of Hawai‘i. Internet site: http://rathbun.si.edu/botany/pacificislandbiodiversity/hawaiianflora/supplement.htm, 3/05/2002.
Federal Register, 2002, Vol. 67, U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, Threatened and Endangered Species System (TESS), Listings by State and Territory as of 7/20/2002. Internet site: http://ecos.fws.gov/servlet/TESSWebpageUsaLists?state=HI, 7/28/2002.
Flinn, John. Destination Hawaii. San Francisco Examiner. Internet site: http://www.hawaiimovietour.com/movietour/examiner.htm, 3/28/2003.
Fogel, Robert William. The Phases of the Four Great Awakenings. Internet site: http://www.press.uchicago.edu/Misc/Chicago/256626.html, 5/03/2003.
Fox, Bob. The Wilcox Beach House at Hanalei Beach. On file at Kaua‘i Historical Society.
Frommer’s: A World of Travel Experience. Internet site: http://www.frommers.com/destinations/kauai/0011021993.html, 12/06/2002.
Frostad, Shon. Where are the ‘O‘opu? It’s About the River. A publication of the Hanalei Heritage River. January, 2001 Volume 1, Issue 5.
Fujimoto, Dennis. Haraguchi Rice Mill receives Young Bros. grant. The Garden Island, 8/14/2003.
Fujimoto, Dennis. Melon-head whales depart Hanalei Bay thanks to reverse hukilau. The Garden Island, 7/05/2004.
Gima, Craig. Whale’s body found near Hanalei Bay: The melon-headed calf is packed in ice prior to a necropsy. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 7/06/2004.
Gomes, Andrew. Stone bids for Hanalei resort: Ko Olina developer expected to take on Kaua‘i’s Princeville. The Honolulu Advertiser, 7/15/2004.
Gradie, Jonathan C., Lunn, Richard L., Calhoun, R. Scott, and Fletcher, Charles H. III. Airborne Multispectral Imagery for Quantifying Suspended Sediment Plumes: Hanalei Bay, Kauai. Internet site: http://ltpwww.gsfc.nasa.gov/ISSSR-95/airborne.htm, 12/08/2002.
Hanalei Cottage. Internet site: http://hanalei-house.com/hancott.html, 3/29/2003.
Hanalei Fire station—Statement of Historical and/or Architectural Significance. National Register of Historic Places: United States Department of the Interior; National Park Service.
Hanalei Hawaii Resource Guide. Internet site: http://www.pe.net/~rksnow/hiscountyhanalei.htm, 12/27/2002.
Hanalei Heritage River: Hui Watershed Action Plan—Our Mission Statement. Internet site:http://www.hanaleiriver.org/hhrinfo/wateractionl.html, 12/06/2002.
Hanalei House. Internet site: http://hanalei-house.com/hanhouse.html, 3.29/2003.
Hanalei House and Cottage: Your Special Hideaway. Internet site: http://hanalei-house.com/, 3.29/2003.
Hanalei Poi Company. Internet site: http://www.hanaleipoi.com/pages/about.html, 1/27/2003.
Hanalei Poi Company—Our Poi Mill. Internet site: http://www.hanaleipoi.com/pages/mill.html, 1/27/2003.
Hanalei river program awarded $700,000. The Garden Island, 5/07/2003.
Hanalei’s Beautiful New Church Edifice. The Garden Island, 10/29/1912.
Hanalei School: Hanalei School History and General Information. Internet site: http://www.aloha.net/~winny/history.html, 12/06/2002.
Hanalei School History. Internet site: http://www.hanalei.k12.hi.us/hist.html, 12/06/2002.
Hanalei Surf Online: The one lane bridges of Hanalei, Kauai. Internet site:http://www.hanaleiurf.com/hanalei_bridges.htm, 12/06/2002.
Haraguchi Rice Mill hosts free workshop on traditional timber framing April 5-9. Kaua‘i Business Report, April, 2004.
Hawaiian Culture, Hawaiian History, and Interesting Facts About Kauai and Hanalei. Internet site:http://www.hanaleibayresort.com/hanaleibay/facts.html, 12/08/2002.
Hawaiian Native Plant Genera. University of Hawai‘i Botany Department. Internet site:http://www.botany.hawaii.edu/faculty/carr/natives.htm, 5/03/2002.
Hawaii’s Birds. Honolulu: Hawaiian Audubon Society, 1993.
Hayworth, Phil. Stone plans changes at Princeville. The Garden Island, 11/16/2004.
Hayworth, Phil. The future of Princeville: New owners say community, market to lead development. The Garden Island, 7/18/2004.
Hazlett, Richard W. and Hyndman, Donald W. Roadside Geology of Hawai‘i. Missoula, Montana: Mountain Press Publishing Company, 1996.
Helen Kapililani Sanborn Davis: Reminiscences of a Life in the Islands, as told to Maili Yardley. Honolulu, Hawaii, Native Books, 2000.
Historic Register Application Statement of Historical and/or Architectural Significance. (undated).
Historic Waioli Hui‘ia United Church of Christ. Informational Brochure. Undated.
History of the Historic Bed and Breakfast. Internet site: http://www.historicbnb.com/history.html, 3/28/2003.
Holocene History of Sediment Deposition and Stratigraphy on the Hanalei Coastal Plain, Kauai, Hawaii (Abstract). Internet site: http://www.soest.hawaii.edu/GG/STUDENTS/calhoun/abstract.html, 3/26/2003.
Hoopulapula Haraguchi Rice Mill—Hawaii Museums Association Database. Internet site: http:www.hawaiimuseums.org/mc/iskauai_hoopulapula.htm?nowritefs, 12/06/2002.
Island Incentives: Princeville and North Shore. Internet site: http://www.islandincentives.com/pub/places/kauai-north.html, 12/08/2002.
Human DNA analysis points to African origin: Study performed on complete genome. The Honolulu Advertiser, 12/7/2000.
Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984.
Johnson, Steve. Summary of Restoration of Waioli Belltower, 1987. On file at Kaua‘i Historical Society.
Johnston, Paul Forsythe. Hanalei Redux—A Shocking Find. Internet site: http://www.si.edu/i+d/redux.html, 12/8/2002.
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Johnston, Paul Forsythe. Hanalei Redux—The Real Work Begins: Details in the Lab and at the Desk. Internet site:http://www.si.edu/i+d/redux.02.html, 12/08/2002.
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Kauai Harbor House: History. Internet site: http://kauai-harborhouse.com/history.html, 3/29/2003.
Kauikeōlani Estate: Hanalei Plantation Cottages. Internet site: http://www.hanaleiland.com/pages/kaui_floorplan.htm, 12/27/2002.
Kauikeōlani Estate: Hanalei Plantation Cottages. Internet site: http://www.hanaleiland.com/pages/kaui_history.htm, 12/27/2002.
Kauikeōlani Estate: Hanalei Plantation Cottages. Internet site: http://www.hanaleiland.com/pages/kaui_main.htm, 12/27/2002.
KauaiNetwork.org—Rural Champions—The Waipa Foundation. Internet site: http://kauainetwork.org/waipa.html, 3/18/2003.
Kaufman, Mark. Navy sonar exercises under fire over potential effects on whales: Hanalei impacts felt all the way to Washington. The Garden Island, 7/12/2004.
Kayal, Michele. The Power of Poi: Hanalei chilled product gaining market appeal. Posted 1/1/2001. Internet site: http://the.honoluluadvertiser.com/2001/Jan/01/11business1.html, printed 3/28/2003.
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Lease of Wai‘oli Land to William P. Alexander by King Kamehameha III, (1841). On file at Kaua‘i Historical Society.
Lease—Kamehameha III To William P. Alexander. 1841. (Translation). On file at Kaua‘i Historical Society.
Lumaha‘i Hula. Kimo Alama, Keaulana Collection, Bishop Museum Archives MS GRP 329 Box 5.37.
Lydgate, J. M. The Wreck of the Saginaw: Notes on Halford’s Story. From memories of S. W. Wilcox, A. S. Wilcox and Mrs. S. B. Deverill, mainly. 5/22/1914.
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Maritime Archaeology in Hawai‘i: Cleopatra’s Barge—The Pride of Hawai‘i. Internet site: http:www.captainrick.com/archaeology.htm, 12/06/2002.
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Matsunaga, Mark. Scientists still fish for migration answer: Canoes ready to test theory of the fishhooks. The Honolulu Advertiser, 4/16/1995.
“Mechanics needed to restore Rice Mill engine” Kaua‘i Business Review, Kaua‘i Publishing Company, March, 2003.
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Navy admits to sonar use prior to beaching. Kauai Island Monthly, 9/10/2004.
New Church is Dedicated. The Garden Island, 10/22/1912.
New top for Hanalei Bridge. The Garden Island, 2/09/2003.
North Shore Kauai: Hanalei Valley Lookout. Internet site: http://www.kauai-hawaii.com/north/hanalei_vl.html, 12/06/2002.
North Shore Kauai: Waioli Mission House. Internet site: http:www.kauai-hawaii.com/north/waioli_mh.html, 12/06/2002.
‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983.
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Pichaske, Pete. Smithsonian to Excavate King Kamehameha II’s Sunken Yacht: The Team Leader Says Artifacts Could Offer Insight Into Hawaiian Culture In The Early 1800s. Internet site: http://www.holoholo.org/reporter/kamyacht.html, 12/06/2002.
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Poi takes a pounding. Internet site: http://starbulletin.com/2002/07/07/news/story2.html, 1/27/2003.
Post Office in Paradise: Kauai Postmarks, Part 1—Anahola to Koloa. Internet site: http://www.hawaiianstamps.com/iskauai1.html, 3/18/2003.
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Princeville and North Shore. Internet site: http://www.islandincentives.com/pub/places/kauai-north.html., 12/08/2002.
Princeville Corporation finalizes sale of land. The Garden Island, 9/14/2003.
Princeville Ranch. p. 2, Na Leo ‘O Princeville. Princeville Corporation & Princeville Utilities Company, Inc., Summer, 2003.
Princeville Resort: A Place to Stay. Internet site: http://www.princevillecom/sta/index.html, 3/17/2003.
Princeville Resort: Destination Princeville. Internet site: http://www.princevillecom/dest/dest_pv.html., 3/17/2003.
Press Release for Preservation News. The Hanalei Project: 1000 Friends of Kauai, 6/06/1989.
Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1986.
Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983.
Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
Recreation.gov: Hanalei NWR. Internet site: http://www.recreation.gov/detail.cfm?ID=(1417), 12/28/2002.
Renovated Hanalei Bridge officially blessed. The Garden Island, 11/09/2003.
Report of the Committee on the Support of Mr. Wilcox and the Waioli Select School, 1861. On file at Grove Farm.
Report of the Superintendent of Public Instruction to the Governor of the Territory of Hawaii from December 31, 1902 to December 31, 1904.
Report of Waioli Select School From July 16th, to May 12th, 1863. On file at Grove Farm.
Report of Waioli Select School, 1859 & 60. On file at Grove Farm.
Report of Waioli Select School. Written most likely in 1848, possibly 1849. On file at Grove Farm.
Restoration: Hana Hou! Ho‘opulapula Haraguchi Rice Mill News, Winter 2001.
Riznik, Barnes. Overview of Historic House Museums and Parks in Hawai‘i: Changing Ideas of Preservation and Interpretation. Internet site: http://crm.cr.nps.gov/archive/19-8/19-8-13.pdf..
Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987.
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Ni‘ihau
The Forbidden Isle
Overview of Ni‘ihau
Land Area: 69.5 square miles (180 sq. km).
Size Comparison: 7th largest Hawaiian Island.
Island Emblem: Pūpū Ni‘ihau —Ni‘ihau Shell
Kahelelani (Leptothyra verruca); Momi (Euplica varians); Laiki (Mitrella margarita).
Highest Elevation: 1,281 feet (390 m), at summit of Pānī‘au.
Official Nickname: The Forbidden Isle.
Also called: Island of Yesteryear (Yesterday).
[Illustration: Map—Ni‘ihau]
A single volcano formed Ni‘ihau about 4.9 million years ago. Today the island of Ni‘ihau is about 6 miles (9.7 km) wide and 18 miles (29 km) long, making it the smallest inhabited Hawaiian Island. Ni‘ihau is just over 17 miles (27 km) from the west side of Kaua‘i, across the ocean channel called Kaulakahi, which means “The single flame (streak of color.”[cmxii] Ni‘ihau is relatively dry because it is in Kaua‘i’s rain shadow.
The main town on Ni‘ihau is Pu‘uwai (“Heart”[cmxiii]). Ni‘ihau’s 860-acre (348-ha) Hālali‘i Lake is the largest lake in all of the Hawaiian Islands. In pre-contact times, Ni‘ihau was known for the mats made there from the native makaloa (Cyperus laevigatus). These mats were considered the finest sleeping mats in all of ancient Polynesia.
Ni‘ihau was also famous in ancient days for the fine quality of the uhi (Dioscorea alata, yams) that grew there. These yams were grated and used for medicinal preparations, and also were considered “slippery and tenacious,” as noted in the ancient proverb, “Ni‘ihau i ka uhi pahe‘e,” (“Ni‘ihau of the slippery yam.”)[cmxiv]
The island of Ni‘ihau has been owned by the Robinson family since 1864, and is not open to tourism. The Robinsons are descendants of Eliza McHutcheson Sinclair, who purchased the island of Ni‘ihau from King Kamehameha V (Lot Kapuāiwa Kamehameha) in 1864. The price paid to King Kamehameha V for the island of Ni‘ihau was $10,000 worth of gold.
Largely isolated from the rest of the Hawaiian Islands, Ni‘ihau is considered by some to be the last bastion of pure Hawaiians speaking the Hawaiian language. Ni‘ihau has no airport, nor does it have an Island-wide electricity or phone system.
Ni‘ihau Shell Lei
Ni‘ihau is also known for the beautiful, tiny seashells that are found on the island’s shores. The shells are found on other islands as well, but nowhere with the luster possessed by the prized Ni‘ihau shells, which are known as pūpū Ni‘ihau (pūpū means “shell”). Ni‘ihau shells are traditionally strung into spiral strands with intricate patterns. The finest of these beautiful shell lei may sell for more than $10,000 dollars.
[Photograph: Ni‘ihau shell lei]
The three primary types of shells used for the traditional Ni‘ihau shell lei are kahelelani (Leptothyra verruca); momi(Euplica varians); and laiki (Mitrella margarita), and the colors of the shells range from deep brown to pearly white.
Pūpū Ni‘ihau (Ni‘ihau shells) show many variations that are caused by waves and sunlight as well as genetic differences. At least 30 different Hawaiian names describe particular colors and patterns. (See Ni‘ihau Shell Lei section andIsland Emblems section, Chapter 3.)
[Photograph: Ni‘ihau scene]
Moloka‘i
The Friendly Isle
Overview of Moloka‘i
Land Area: 260 square miles (673.4 sq. km).
Size Comparison: 5th largest Hawaiian Island.
Island Emblem: Pua Kukui—Flower of Kukui (Aleurites moluccana, candlenut).
Highest Elevation: 4,970 feet (1,515 m), at the summit of Kamakou.
Official Nickname: The Friendly Isle.
[Moloka‘i Visitors Bureau, 808-553-3876; 800-800-6367, Ala Malama & KamehamehaV Highway (Hwy. 450), Kaunakakai.]
[Moloka‘i Visitor Association: www.molokai-hawaii.com.]
[Illustration: Map—Moloka‘i]
Moloka‘i is about 38 miles (61 km) long by 10 miles (16 km) wide, and somewhat rectangular in shape. Moloka‘ihas no fast food chains, high-rise buildings, shopping centers, movie theaters, or traffic signals.
Moloka‘i is located about 9 miles (14.5 km) northwest of Maui, 9 miles (14.5 km) north of Lāna‘i, and 22 miles (35 km) southeast from Honolulu across the Kaiwi Channel.
The island of Moloka‘i has the highest percentage of native Hawaiians of any of the Hawaiian Islands except Ni‘ihau. Much of Moloka‘i’s relatively small population (less than 8,000 total) still clings largely to a subsistence lifestyle of farming, fishing, hunting, and gathering.
Moloka‘i was formed by Kauhakō and Kamakou Volcanoes, which originally created two separate islands. These two islands were joined when later lava flows formed the Ho‘olehua Plains.
After the main part of Moloka‘i had been formed, Kauhakō Crater offshore erupted, creating the northern peninsula of Kalaupapa on the island’s northern side, and thus Kauhakō Crater became part of the island of Moloka‘i. The crater rises to 400 feet (122 m) above sea level, and is the highest point on the Kalaupapa peninsula.
Moloka‘i has vast amphitheater valleys and spectacular coral reefs. The sea cliffs along Moloka‘i’s northern shore have an average steepness of more than 55 degrees and rise to more than 3,300 feet (1,006 m), making them among the highest sea cliffs in the world. Kahiwa Falls cascades 1,750 feet (533 m) down the cliffs over a horizontal distance of 1,000 feet (305 m), and is one of the highest waterfalls in the Hawaiian Islands. Kahiwa means, “The chosen one.”[cmxv]
The western half of Moloka‘i is generally the drier side, and is dominated by the shield-shaped dome of Mauna Loa. The volcano has two peaks, including Pu‘unānā, which is west Moloka‘i’s highest point at 1,381 feet (421 m). The dunes of Mo‘omomi are located on Moloka‘i’s northwest coast, an area that is home to many culturally important sites and also a unique Hawaiian habitat supporting many endangered plant species.
In ancient times, Mauna Loa was the site of adze quarries, where pōhaku pa‘a (basaltic rocks) were chipped into ko‘i (stone adzes) that had important uses in ancient Hawai‘i (see Chapter 1). Mauna Loa was also the site of he‘e hōlua (hōlua sledding), which involved using specially constructed papa hōlua (wooden sleds) to slide down a hillside or a ramp slide constructed of stone.
An area called Kaka‘ako on the eastern side of Mauna Loa was known in ancient times for particular trees used in kālai-pāhoa sorcery. These trees included nīoi (Eugenia species) and a‘e (Sapindus saponaria, soapberry).
Moloka‘i’s main town, and perhaps its only true “town,” is Kaunakakai on the island’s southern coast. An ancient saying, “Moloka‘i ko‘o lā‘au,” (“Moloka‘i of the canoe-poler,”) is a reference to the island’s shallow southern waters, where “...the people could propel their canoes with poles.”[cmxvi]
Moloka‘i
Cultural / Historical Sites and Attractions
Kaunakakai
Malama
Kapuāiwa Royal Coconut Grove
Church Row
One-ali‘i Beach Park
Southeast Moloka‘i—Kaunakakai to Hālawa
Kaloko‘eli Fishpond
Nēnē o Moloka‘i Bird Propagation Facility
Kawela
Kakahai‘a Beach Park
Kakahai‘a National Wildlife Refuge
Kawela Pu‘uhonua
Kamalō / St. Joseph’s Church
Smith and Bronte Landing
‘Ualapu‘e Fishpond / Ah Ping Store
Kalua‘aha Church / Our Lady of Sorrows Church
Kalua‘aha
‘Ili‘ili‘ōpae Heiau / Pūko‘o
Honouli Malo‘o
Sacred Kukui Grove of Lanikaula
Wailua
Waialua Congregational Church
Moanui Sugar Mill
Waialua Beach (Twenty-Mile Beach)
Rock Point
Pu‘u-o-Hoku Ranch
Mokuho‘oniki
Hālawa Valley / Hālawa Bay
Moa‘ula Falls
Hīpuapua Falls
Kamakou Preserve
Central and Northern Moloka‘i
Moloka‘i Coffee Plantation
Moloka‘i Museum & Cultural Center / R. W. Meyer Sugar Mill Museum
Pālā‘au State Park / Kalaupapa Overlook
Ka-ule-o-Nānāhoa
Kalaupapa
Kalaupapa National Historic Park
Father Damien
Mother Marianne
Western Moloka‘i
Pāpōhaku
Mauna Loa / Pu‘unānā
Dunes of Mo‘omomi
Moloka‘i
Cultural / Historical Sites and Attractions
Kaunakakai
Moloka‘i’s main town is Kaunakakai on the island’s south coast. Kaunakakai’s main street, Ala Malama Street, is lined with false-front stores reminiscent of the Old West. The downtown area is only about three blocks long, and a weekly outdoor market offers fresh fruits and vegetables for sale each Saturday.
Located across the highway from the town of Kaunakakai, the wharf where tug boats, barges, and ferry boats dock to bring goods and people to and from Moloka‘i. Due to the shallow waters, the wharf is nearly ½-mile (.8 km) long.
Across the Kalohi Channel, the islands of Maui, Kaho‘olawe, and Lāna‘i are visible. Behind the nearby canoe club is the stone foundation remains of the thatched-grass summer home of King Kamehameha V (Lot Kapuāiwa Kamehameha). The home was called Malama.
In 1860, Kamehameha V planted more than 1,000 niu (Cocos nucifera, coconut palms) over an area of about 10 acres (4 ha) along the coast at the site now known as Kapuāiwa Royal Coconut Grove. His reign as King Kamehameha V extended from Nov. 30, 1863 to Dec. 11, 1872. On the other side of the highway is Church Row, where the town’s several places of worship are lined up side by side.
About 3 miles (4 km) east of Kaunakakai is One-ali‘i Beach Park, which includes two memorials commemorating Japanese immigrants. One-ali‘i means “Royal sands.”[cmxvii]
[Kaunakakai, Maunaloa Highway (Hwy. 460), 5½ miles (9 km) southwest of airport.]
Southeast Moloka‘i—Kaunakakai to Hālawa
About 28 miles (45 km) east of Kaunakakai along the Kamehameha V Highway (Highway 450) is scenic Hālawa Valley. The road follows the ocean for much of the way, and the terrain gradually becomes more lush and tropical as it nears Hālawa. On the way from Kaunakakai to Hālawa are the towns of Kawela, Kamalō, ‘Ualapu‘e, and Kalua‘aha.
Moloka‘i has some of the most extensive aquaculture complexes in all of Polynesia. The largest concentration of loko i‘a (fishponds) in the Hawaiian Islands is located on Moloka‘i’s southeast coast. Some of these ancient fishponds have been restored.
Just east of Kaunakakai is Kaloko‘eli Fishpond, located behind the Moloka‘i Shores condominiums. Kaloko‘eli means “The dug pond,”[cmxviii] and is just one of more than 60 ancient fishponds once in use along Moloka‘i’s eastern shores. Just past Mile Marker 4 is the Nēnē o Moloka‘i Bird Propagation Facility, which offers tours of the nēnē propagation site.
[Kaloko‘eli Fishpond, Kamehameha V Highway (Highway 450), about 6 miles (9.7 km) east of Kaunakakai.]
[Nēnē o Moloka‘i, 808-553-5992, just past Mile Marker 4.]
Kawela
At Kawela is Kakahai‘a Beach Park, part of the Kakahai‘a National Wildlife Refuge, which is mostly closed to the public. Inland at Kawela, high on a ridge, is Kawela Pu‘uhonua, a sacred place of refuge in ancient times.
Kawela was also the site of a 1736 battle in which warriors of the islands of Hawai‘i and Moloka‘i, led by Alapa‘inui, fought against the forces of O‘ahu. Five days of fighting resulted in the defeat of O‘ahu’s forces and the death of thousands (based on archaeological studies), including O‘ahu’s chief Kapi‘ioho-o-kalani (“The head curls of the royal chief”). (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1736.) Kamehameha also landed his forces at Kawela in 1794 as he rose to power as King Kamehameha I.
[Kawela Pu‘uhonua, off Kamehameha V Highway (Hwy. 450), east of Kaunakakai near Kawela. Kawela Battlefield extends from Mile Markers 6 to 13.]
Kamalō / St. Joseph’s Church
St. Joseph’s Church is located in Kamalō, east of Kaunakakai. Built in 1876 by Father Damien (see below). A bronze statue of Father Damien is on display outside of the church.
[Kamalō—St. Joseph’s Church, about 10 miles (16 km) east of Kaunakakai.]
Smith and Bronte Landing
On the makai side of the road after Mile Marker 11 is a sign marking the site of the crash landing of the plane of navigator Emily Bronte and airmail pilot Ernest Smith. Bronte and Smith were the first civilians to fly to the Hawaiian Islands from the United States Mainland (Oakland, California).
Bronte and Smith’s July 14, 1927 journey, the first trans-Pacific flight by civilians, covered about 2,200 miles (3,541 km) and took 26 hours and 36 minutes. They originally intended to fly to Honolulu, but a fuel shortage led to the crash landing on Moloka‘i in their 27-foot (8-m) monoplane named The City of Oakland.
[Smith and Bronte Landing, Highway 450, just past Mile Marker 11.]
‘Ualapu‘e Fishpond / Ah Ping Store
The town of ‘Ualapu‘e is the site of ‘Ualapu‘e Fishpond. Located on the ocean side of the road, ‘Ualapu‘e Fishpond was one of many ancient loko ‘ia (fishponds) along Moloka‘i’s eastern shore.
‘Ualapu‘e is now restored, and is used to raise ‘ama ‘ama (Mugil cephalus, mullet). Just past the fishpond is the shell of the old Ah Ping Store, a Chinese-owned store built in the 1930s.
[‘Ualapu‘e Fishpond / Ah Ping Store]
Kalua‘aha Church / Our Lady of Sorrows Church
East of Kaunakakai, just inland about 2 miles (3.2 km) past Kalua‘aha (“The gathering pit”[cmxix]), is the remains of Moloka‘i’s first Church, Kalua‘aha Church. The church was built in 1874 by the Reverend Harvey R. Hitchcock, the island’s first missionary, who established Moloka‘i’s first mission in 1832 (see Chapter 11, Timeline: 1832), when the missionaries estimated Moloka‘i’s population at 6,000 people (about the same as today).
Kalua‘aha Church was one of the largest Western-style buildings in the Hawaiian Islands, and remained in use until the 1940s. To the east of the site is a marble headstone marking Reverend Hitchcock’s grave.
About 200 yards (183 m) past Kalua‘aha Church is Our Lady of Sorrows Church, a Catholic church built in 1966, reconstructing the original church built there by Father Damien. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1832.)]
Our Lady of Sorrows was the second church built by Father Damien. When he was on his way from Kalaupapa to St. Josephs he would say Mass at Our Lady of Sorrows Church. He did this even during the years before his death when he was very ill with leprosy (Hansen’s disease).
[Kalua‘aha Church / Our Lady of Sorrows Church, inland about 2 miles (3.2 km) past Kalua‘aha town, between Mile Markers 14 and 15, on Kamehameha V Highway (Hwy. 450.)]
‘Ili‘ili‘ōpae Heiau / Pūko‘o
‘Ili‘ili‘ōpae Heiau, located just past Mile Marker 11 in southeast Moloka‘i, is a platform-type heiau, and the biggest of such sacred sites on Moloka‘i. It also may be Moloka‘i’s oldest heiau.
‘Ili‘ili‘ōpae Heiau is about 286 feet (87 m) long by 87 feet (27 m) wide, and ranges from about 11 to 22 feet (3.3 to 6.7 m) high. This heiau’s current size, about 3,000 square feet (279 sq. m), may be only about one third of the heiau’s original size.
In ancient times, ‘Ili‘ili‘ōpae Heiau was a place where human sacrifices took place. According to legend, this heiau was also built by the legendary race of ancient people known as menehune who passed stones (‘ili‘ili) from hand-to-hand all the way from Wailau Valley to the site of the heiau. The workers were apparently paid with ‘ōpae (shrimp). (SeeMenehune, Chapter 3.)
Past ‘Ili‘ili‘ōpae Heiau is Pūko‘o, a small village that used to be Moloka‘i’s center of government.
[‘Ili‘ili‘ōpae Heiau, just past Mile Marker 11 on Kamehameha V Highway (Hwy. 450.) east of Kaunakakai.]
Sacred Kukui Grove of Lanikaula
Atop a hill on lands of the Pu‘u-o-Hoku Ranch is a 5-acre (2-ha) grove of kukui, where a sacred burial ground of the important 16th century kahuna named Lanikaula. This is not open to the public.
Waialua
Waialua is located near Mile Marker 19 on the Kamehameha V Highway (Hwy. 450). In the center of town isWaialua Congregational Church, which was constructed of stone in 1855. Just past town, on the inland side of the road, are the remains of the stone chimney of the Moanui Sugar Mill, which was destroyed by fire in the late 1800s.
Waialua Beach (also called Twenty-Mile Beach), is located at the 20 Mile Marker, and provides good swimming and snorkeling. Nearby is a good surfing spot for kids, especially when the ocean is rough elsewhere. Caution is still advised, however, as strong currents sometimes make swimming dangerous.
Just beyond is Rock Point, a popular surfing spot. From here the road winds upward into the lands of Pu‘u-o-Hoku Ranch. Offshore is a small islet called Mokuho‘oniki, which means “Pinch island (as a lover pinches)”[cmxx]
Mokuho‘oniki is a seabird sanctuary, and can be seen from near Mile Marker 24. Just after Mile Marker 25 there is a sweeping view of Hālawa Valley.
Hālawa Valley / Hālawa Bay
Hālawa Valley is the easternmost of the amphitheater-like valleys on Moloka‘i’s north coast, and the only one easily accessible (by guided hikes). Considered by many to be one of the most scenic spots on Moloka‘i, the lush, steep-walled Hālawa Valley is about 3½ miles (5.6 km) deep and ½-mile (.8 km) wide, and includes two prominent waterfalls.
At the head of the valley is Moa‘ula Falls, plunging about 250 feet down the mountain. About ¼-mile (.4 km) north of Moa‘ula Falls is Hīpuapua Falls, which plunges some 500 feet (152 m) down the mountain. Hīpuapua means“Tail flowing.”[cmxxi] Both falls can be seen from (Hwy. 450), and are accessible only through a guided permitted hike of about 4½ miles (7.2 km).
Once a main farming area, Hālawa Valley was hit hard by the 1946 and 1957 tsunamis, and many of the residents were relocated. The two coves of the double-scalloped Hālawa Bay provide good swimming and surfing. The south side of the bay is generally more protected, but currents along the coast still require swimmers to always exercise caution.
[Hālawa Valley / Hālawa Bay, northeast Moloka‘i.]
[Photograph: Moloka‘i scene]
Kamakou Preserve
The 2,774-acre (1,123-ha) Kamakou Preserve includes the 4,961-foot (1,512-m) peak of Kamakou, Moloka‘i’s highest point. The Preserve also supports various types of native Hawaiian ecosystems, including cloud forests, bogs, and shrublands that provide habitat for endangered forest birds and other native species.
Central and Northern Moloka‘i
Moloka‘i Coffee Plantation
Moloka‘i Coffee Plantation is located just a few miles northwest of Kaunakakai. Coffees of Hawai‘i runs tours of the coffee plantation store grown on their own 500-acre (202-ha) plantation and roasted there. Dozens of local artisans sell their wares at the store.
[Coffees of Hawai‘i, 808-567-9241, www.coffeehawaii.com, 10-1]
Moloka‘i Museum & Cultural Center / R. W. Meyer Sugar Mill Museum
The Moloka‘i Museum & Cultural Center is located in the restored R. W. Meyer Sugar Mill, a very small sugar mill originally constructed in 1878, making it the oldest existing mill in the Hawaiian Islands that is now restored to operating condition. The structure is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
The mill was built by German immigrant Rudolph Meyer, a Moloka‘i surveyor in 1848. Meyer married Kalama, a high chiefess, and managed the ranch lands that later became part of Moloka‘i Ranch.
When Meyer constructed the sugar mill in 1878, he used mules and a steam engine to run the machinery that crushed and processed the sugarcane. The Meyer’s family home, still owned by descendants, is located just up the hill but is not open to the public.
[Moloka‘i Museum & Cultural Center / R. W. Meyer Sugar Mill Museum, 808-567-6436, Kala‘e Highway (Hwy. 470), Kala‘e, open 10-2, Mon.-Sat. Directions: Take Kala‘e Highway (Hwy. 470) up from its intersection with Maunaloa Highway (Hwy. 460) toward central Moloka‘i. The museum is located between Kualapu‘u and the Kalaupapa Lookout.]
Pālā‘au State Park / Kalaupapa Overlook
Pālā‘au State Park is located about 10 miles (16 km) from Kaunakakai, and about 2 miles (3.2 km) past the Moloka‘i Museum & Cultural Center. Pālā‘au State Park encompasses 234 acres (95 ha) at an elevation of about 1,000 feet (305 m) above sea level.
A short trail in the park leads to the legendary phallic rock known as Ka-ule-o-Nānāhoa, which is said to increase the fertility of women. Nearby are ancient petroglyphs.
Kalaupapa Overlook, located at the end of a short trail through the pine forest, provides outstanding views of the Kalaupapa Peninsula and the town of Kalaupapa. Also at Pālā‘au State Park is the trailhead that leads down to Kalaupapa Peninsula (see below).
[Pālā‘au State Park / Kalaupapa Overlook, 808-567-6923, end of Kala‘e Highway (Hwy. 470), 3 miles (4.8 km) north of Kualapu‘u, open dawn to dusk daily. Directions: Take Maunaloa Highway (Hwy. 460) to Kala‘e Highway (Hwy. 470), then go north to past the town of Kualapu‘u to the end of the road.]
Kalaupapa
Along Moloka‘i’s north-central coast is Kalaupapa National Historic Park, on the Kalaupapa Peninsula, which is accessible only by boat, airplane, foot, or mule. Kalaupapa Peninsula is surrounded on three sides by ocean. On the fourth side, cliffs rise up 2,000 to 3,000 feet (610 to 914 m).
Mule ride tours down into Kalaupapa from Pālā‘au State Park are offered by Moloka‘i Mule Rides and Damien Tours (see below). The trail into Kalaupapa descends about 1,600 feet (488 m) and includes 26 switchback turns.
Many archaeological sites attest to the fact that Kalaupapa was an important place in ancient Hawai‘i, and was well-populated before Captain Cook arrived in 1778 establishing Western contact. Beginning in 1865, the isolated valley was used to segregate victims of Hansen’s disease (also called leprosy), which is caused by Mycobacterium leprae, a slow-growing bacterium.
A Belgian priest known as Father Damien (Joseph Damien DeVeuster), volunteered to minister to the victims of the disease at the Kalaupapa leper colony in 1873. Father Damien served tirelessly to help the residents of Kalaupapa, and he died there of leprosy 16 years later. Eventually nearly 9,000 people were quarantined at Kalaupapa.
Today Father Damien’s spirit lives on as one of Hawai‘i’s beloved heroes. Referred to as the “Martyr of Moloka‘i,” Father Damien is immortalized in a statue that faces Beretania St. on O‘ahu, in front of the State CapitolBuilding. There is also a statue of Father Damien outside St. Joseph’s Church in Kamalō (see below). A selfless servant to those in need, Father Damien was beatified by Pope John Paul II on June 4, 1995 in Brussels, Belgium. (For more information about Father Damien, see Damien Museum in O‘ahu section, Chapter 2; and Chapter 11, Timeline: 1865; 1873; 1889; 1969; 1995.)
Another selfless and dedicated servant ministering to the leprosy patients of Kalaupapa was Roman Catholic nunMother Marianne Cope. Born in Germany as Barbara Koob, she took the name Marianne upon joining the Sisters of the Third Order of St. Francis in 1862 in New York.
Mother Marianne later volunteered to minister to leprosy patients in Honolulu, and moved to Kalaupapa five years later to supervise a new girls’ home for Hansen’s disease patients, eventually also running a home for boys. Mother Marianne first worked alongside Father Damien, and then continued working at Kalaupapa for decades after Damien’s passing. Mother Marianne ministered to the patients for a total of 30 years (1888-1918), until she passed away in 1918 at the age of 80.
Mother Marianne was known for her uplifting attitude, helping the patients in many small but extremely meaningful ways, such as planting flowers and trees, and organizing picnics. She also sewed clothes for the Kalaupapa residents and played piano so they could sing along.
King Kalākaua honored Mother Marianne with royal decorations, and Robert Louis Stevenson also wrote of her. One of the most notable women in the history of the Hawaiian Islands, Mother Marianne also founded Maui’s first hospital, now known as Maui Memorial Hospital.
Mother Marianne’s canonization cause began decades ago, and in 1996 the accuracy of her documented life story was verified by Vatican historians. In October of 2003, Rome theologians gave their approval, and then in January of 2004, the Vatican’s Congregation for the Causes of Saints affirmed Mother Marianne’s “heroic virtue,” which was a step toward canonization and sainthood.
The next step would be for the pope to declare her “venerable.” The next steps are beatification and then sainthood. A possible miracle attributed to Mother Marianne involved the unexpected recovery of an extremely ill teen-age girl.
[Kalaupapa National Historic Park, 808-567-6802, Kalaupapa Settlement, Kalaupapa. Visits allowed only by invitation or on guided tour: 808-567-6171.]
[Moloka‘i Mule Ride, 567-6088, 800-567-7550, www.muleride.com, Mon.-Sat.]
[Damien Tours, 808-567-6171, land tours of Kalaupapa Peninsula.]
Western Moloka‘i
Pāpōhaku
Spanning more than 3 miles (4.8 km) along Moloka‘i’s western coast, Pāpōhaku is one of the largest white sand beaches in the Hawaiian Islands. Warm, white sand and uncrowded conditions make Pāpōhaku a great place to visit. Be extremely cautious about swimming, however, as conditions may be unsafe.
Three access points off Kaluako‘i Road lead to Pāpōhaku Beach. The first access point leads to Pāpōhaku BeachPark, which has restrooms, campsites, and other facilities making the spot a great picnic area.
[Pāpōhaku Beach, Kaluako‘i Road, West Moloka‘i.]
Mauna Loa / Pu‘unānā
Atop the shield-shaped dome of Mauna Loa is a peak that lives up to its name, Pu‘unānā, which means“Observation hill.”[cmxxii] The view from atop Pu‘unānā, at an elevation of 1,381 feet (421 m), looks across eastern Moloka‘i’s Ho‘olehua plain and also provides a great view of Maui and Lāna‘i. Depending on visibility, Hawai‘i Island may also be seen.
Dunes of Mo‘omomi
The dunes of Mo‘omomi are located on Moloka‘i’s northwest coast. Mo‘omomi is the most undisturbed coastal sand dune system in the Hawaiian Islands, providing a unique Hawaiian habitat that supports many endangered plant species. Mo‘omomi is also an important Hawaiian cultural area with numerous sites considered of high value for studies regarding Hawaiian geology and paleontology.
Honu (Chelonia mydas, Hawaiian green sea turtles) nest on the shores of Mo‘omomi. Monthly guided hikes are offered by the Nature Conservancy (808-553-5236).
Kepuhi Beach
Rough ocean conditions may make swimming dangerous at Kepuhi Beach, located to the west of Kaunakakai in front of the Kaluako‘i Hotel.
Lāna‘i
The Private Isle
Overview of Lāna‘i
Land Area: 140.5 square miles (363.9 sq. km).
Size Comparison: 6th largest Hawaiian Island; smallest inhabited island.
Island Emblem: Kauna‘oa—Native Dodder (Cuscuta sandwichiana).
Highest Elevation: 3,370 feet (1,027 m), at the summit of Lāna‘ihale.
Official Nickname: The Private Isle.
Also called: The Pineapple Island, The Secluded Island.
[Illustration: Map—Lāna‘i]
Lāna‘i is about 17½ miles (28 km) long by 13 miles (21 km) wide. The island of Lāna‘i is somewhat teardrop-shaped, with about 47 miles (76 km) of coastline. Lāna‘i is about 9 miles (14.5 km) west of Maui (across the ‘Au‘au Channel), and 9 miles (14.5 km) south of Moloka‘i.
Lāna‘i’s Pālāwai Basin is the alluvium-filled crater of the single volcano that formed the island. The volcano last erupted about 1.3 million years ago. The Pālāwai Basin is now a fertile area, and many pineapples have been grown there.
There are not many paved roads on Lāna‘i, and much of the island is accessible only by 4-wheel-drive vehicles. On a clear day atop Lāna‘ihale (“House [of] Lāna‘i”[cmxxiii]) the highest point on Lāna‘i, one may see five of the Hawaiian Islands. The 3,370-foot (1,027-m) summit of Lāna‘ihale is about 5 miles (8 km) southeast of Lāna‘i City and may be reached with a 4-wheel-drive vehicle if the roads are not washed out by rains.
The peak of Lāna‘ihale is the highest point of the ridge that runs from southeast to northwest across the island. This ridge is a significant geographical feature affecting Lāna‘i’s climate, which is relatively dry because the northeast tradewinds are blocked by the West Maui Mountains.
An ancient proverb states, “Niniu Moloka‘i, poahi Lāna‘i,” (“Moloka‘i revolves, Lāna‘i sways”), said to describe“...the revolving of the hips and the swaying movements in hula.”[cmxxiv]
Lāna‘i
Cultural / Historical Sites and Attractions
Lāna‘i City
Dole Park
Hawaiian Church
Northwest of Lāna‘i City
Kānepu‘u Forest Reserve
Garden of the Gods
South of Lāna‘i City
Lu‘ahiwa
Japanese Cemetery
Kaunolū—An Ancient Fishing Village
Halulu Heiau
Kaumālapa‘u Harbor
Nānāhoa Islet
Kahekili’s Leap
Northeast Lāna‘i
Kahokunui South to Kahalepalaoa Landing
Kaiolohia (Shipwreck Beach) and Keōmuku Beach
Awalua
Polihua
Maunalei
Keōmuku
Ka Lanakili o Ka Mālamalama Church
Kahe‘a Heiau
Lōpā
Kahalepalaoa Landing
Nāhā
Southeast Lāna‘i
Hulopo‘e Beach (Hulapōeo)
Mānele Bay
Pu‘u Pehe (Sweetheart Rock)
Lodge at Kō‘ele
Ka Lokahi Ka Mālamalama Church
Lāna‘i
Cultural / Historical Sites and Attractions
Lāna‘i City
Beginning in the 1920s, Lāna‘i was dominated by a vast pineapple plantation that eventually became the largest pineapple plantation in the world. The island’s central population lived in Lāna‘i City, a company town situated at an elevation of about 1,700 feet (518 m) above sea level, and set beneath the hills of Lāna‘ihale.
Today Lāna‘i City remains the town’s central population area, and early 1900s era homes (many brightly painted) still line the streets. At the center of Lāna‘i is the grassy lawn of six-block-long Dole Park. Hawaiian Church is at the corner of Gay and 5th Streets. Very few of Lāna‘i’s residents live outside of Lāna‘i City.
Lāna‘i City was originally built by James Drummond Dole (1877-1958), a pioneer in the pineapple industry. Dole purchased Lāna‘i in 1922 for $1,100,000 and soon had more than 19,000 acres (7,700 ha) planted, producing almost one-third of the world’s pineapple crop.
Dole formed the Hawaiian Pineapple Company on December 4, 1901 and the first harvest took place in 1903. In 1906, Dole constructed a cannery in the Iwilei district on O‘ahu. At the time, Dole’s enterprise was the largest fruit factory in the world. After Dole planted the first pineapples on Lāna‘i in 1922, the pineapple industry dominated Lāna‘i for the next 65 years, producing as many as 250 million of the tasty fruits per year.
Today pineapple is no longer king on Lāna‘i. The last major commercial pineapple harvest on Lāna‘i took place in 1992, though some pineapple “show fields” still adorn the landscape. A tourist oriented economy has now replaced the industrious company town that was once awakened each morning by the plantation whistle.
In 1985, 98% of Lāna‘i was purchased by businessman David H. Murdock, who closed the pineapple plantation. The 1990s saw a marked rise in tourism related activities, and Lāna‘i now has two luxury resorts, including the Mānele Bay Hotel on the beach, and the Lodge at Kō‘ele in the mountains.
Northwest of Lāna‘i City
Kānepu‘u Forest Reserve
Northwest of Lāna‘i City is Kānepu‘u Forest Reserve, which offers a self-guided nature trail through a rare Hawaiian lowland forest (the largest preserved native dryland forest in the Hawaiian Islands). The 590-acre (239-ha) Reserve is owned and managed by the Nature Conservancy, and provides habitat for many native plants and trees. A fifteen-minute loop trail includes informative signs.
[Kānepu‘u Forest Reserve, 808-565-7430, 808-537-4508; open 9-4: Directions: Polihua Road, 6 miles (9.7 km) north of Lāna‘i City, Guided tours given by Nature Conservancy, Internet site: www.tnc-hawaii.org.]
Garden of the Gods
Also northwest of Lāna‘i City is a volcanic and eroded landscape known (in recent times) as Garden of the Gods. The area’s erosion is due largely to the overgrazing of the land by non-native animals, including deer, goats and cattle. In recent times, this barren landscape was given the name, Garden of the Gods. The wind eroded boulders show changing reddish hues as the sun sets, and there are spectacular views of the ocean and Moloka‘i, and sometimes O‘ahu.
South of Lāna‘i City
Lu‘ahiwa
Lu‘ahiwa is located to the southeast of Lāna‘i City, and is rich in ancient petroglyphs. Lu‘ahiwa’s stone etchings are spread over at least 3 acres (1.2 ha).
Japanese Cemetery
Southeast of Shipwreck Beach is a Buddhist shrine that commemorates Japanese sugar plantation workers who died from disease in 1899. The plant once took up 2,400 acres (971 ha).
[Japanese Cemetery, Directions: Take Keōmuku Road (Hwy. 44) to Shipwreck Beach, go 6½ miles (10.5 km) southeast.]
Kaunolū—An Ancient Fishing Village
Kaunolū is an ancient fishing village and bay in southeast Lāna‘i. Registered as a National Historic Landmark, Kaunolū is reached by following Mānele Road (Highway 440) south for 4½ miles (7 km) to Kaupili Road. Old house foundations and terraces may be seen Kaunolū along with the remains of an ancient sacred area called Halulu Heiau.
Kaumālapa‘u Harbor
Kaumālapa‘u Harbor, Lāna‘i’s main seaport, is reached by following Kaumālapa‘u Highway (Hwy. 440) west to the end and then turning left and driving about 7 miles (11.3 km). Kaumālapa‘u Harbor was developed in 1926 by James Drummond Dole and his Hawaiian Pineapple Company (later called Dole Company). Seacliffs along the western side of the harbor reach to 1,000 feet (305 m) high.
Nānāhoa Islet, north of Kaumālapa‘u Harbor on Lāna‘i’s west side, consists of two large pillar stones. According to legend a man named Nānāhoa and his wife were turned into these stones.
[Kaumālapa‘u Harbor, Kaumālapa‘u Highway, southwest Lāna‘i.]
Kahekili’s Leap
Near Kaumālapa‘u Harbor is Kahekili’s Leap (or Jump), a cliff that rises about 62 feet (19 m) above the ocean, and is said to have been a test for ancient warriors who would meet their death if they could not clear the ledge below. The site’s name also originated from the fact that it was the spot from which torch signals were sent to Maui’s chief,Kahekilinui‘ahumanu [Kahekili]. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1713.)
In 1778, the young chief Kamehameha (who would later become King Kamehameha I), went aboard Captain Cook’s ship anchored off Maui. Kamehameha was accompanying Kalani‘ōpu‘u, the ruler of Hawai‘i Island. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1778). That same year, Kalani‘ōpu‘u’s forces (including Kamehameha) invaded Lāna‘i, resulting in the death of many of the island’s residents.
After King Kamehameha I achieved his own military victories and began his reign, Kaunolū was one of the ruler’s favorite fishing areas. The waters offshore of Kaunolū are still known to be plentiful in many fish species, particularly aku(Katsuwonus pelamis, skipjack tuna).
[Kahekili’s Leap, near Kaumālapa‘u Harbor, southwest Lāna‘i.]
Northeast Lāna‘i
Kahokunui South to Kahalepalaoa Landing
Along the route from Kahokunui south to Kahalepalaoa Landing is Keōmuku Beach. The shoreline road goes for a total of 15 miles (24 km), ending at the “old village” of Naha.
Kaiolohi‘a (Shipwreck Beach) and Keōmuku Beach
Kaiolohi‘a (Shipwreck Beach) on Lāna‘i’s northeast coast is about 8 miles (13 km) northeast of Lāna‘i City. Since a British and an American ship wrecked on the offshore reef in the 1820s, Shipwreck Beach has been the site of the demise of hundreds of ships, including a massive World War II tanker now relegated to its restful rusting place there (though some say the ship was purposely abandoned). Another shipwreck is located along the beach at Awalua. Across the 9-mile (14.5-km) Kalohi Channel is Moloka‘i.
Kaiolohi‘a (Shipwreck Beach) is known more as a beachcombing site than a swimming location due to the strong tradewinds and water conditions. The beach spans for 9 miles (14.5 km) from Kahokunui to Polihua (“Eggs [in] bosom”[cmxxv]), the name referring to the eggs of sea turtles, which nest on the region’s beaches. Polihua is more for beachcombers than swimmers because the beach‘s steep sand drop-off and strong currents make it a dangerous place to swim. Nearby is a site rich in ancient petroglyphs.
[Kaiolohia (Shipwreck Beach), Directions: follow Keōmuku Road (Hwy. 44) north to the end at Kahokunui; also reached by going 11 miles (18 km) from Lāna‘i City on Polihua Road, past Garden of the Gods.]
Maunalei
About 1 mile (1.6 km) south of Kahokunui is Maunalei, the site of an ancient heiau. Unfortunately, the stones of the heiau were taken long ago for use in constructing a cattle pen, and this was said to have been one of the causes of the failure of the Maunalei Sugar Company (which took a swift downturn after the heiau stones were taken). Maunalei Sugar Company operations (see below) were centered at Keōmuku, about 6 miles (9.7 km) from Keōmuku Road (Highway 44).
[Maunalei, 1 mile (1.6 km) south of Kahokunui, northeast Lāna‘i.]
Keōmuku
Keōmuku was a thriving sugar plantation community in the late 1800s when it was the headquarters of the Maunalei Sugar Company. Keōmuku was abandoned when the nearby sugar plantation failed (see above), and the area was used as ranchland until 1954.
Still standing in Keōmuku is Ka Lanakila o Ka Mālamalama Church, originally constructed of wood in 1903, and now partially reconstructed. In the early 1900s Keōmuku was the headquarters of the Gay family’s cattle and sheep ranch. This ended in 1951 when the area was abandoned and the town’s residents moved to Lāna‘i City.
[Ka Lanakila o Ka Mālamalama Church, 5 miles (8 km) southeast of Shipwreck Beach.]
Kahe‘a Heiau
Kahe‘a Heiau is located just south of Keōmuku. Use of the heiau’s stones by the Maunalei Sugar Company to construct a sugarcane railway was said to be a factor in the demise of the company’s plantation (see above). Right after the stones were used, the town’s water turned salty, and many of the workers died from a fever.
Kahe‘a means “The red stains,”[cmxxvi] and is likely a reference to Kahe‘a Heiau being a luakini, where human sacrifices were performed. This eastern coastline region was also the site of ancient loko ‘ia (fishponds), though these are now not easily recognized.
[Kahe‘a Heiau, 1½ miles (2.4 km) south of Keōmuku.]
Lōpā
Lōpā is the site of an ancient Hawaiian loko ‘ia (fishpond), and is also a popular local surf spot. Strong currents make swimming dangerous but the remote white-sand beach provides a nice picnic area.
[Lōpā, 7 miles (11 km) down dirt road at end of Keōmuku Highway.]
Kahalepalaoa Landing
Not far south of Ka‘hea Heiau is Kahalepalaoa Landing, a popular recreational beach. Kahalepalaoa Landing was also the site of a wharf where sugar cane was loaded on vessels and sent to Maui.
It is said that whale bones were often found along Lāna‘i’s eastern shoreline, including the Kahalepalaoa Landing area. Kahalepalaoa means “Storehouse for ivory.”
Nāhā
The old village of Nāhā, about 4 miles (6.4 km) down the road from Kahalepalaoa Landing, is a good fishing spot frequented by locals, but is not a good spot for swimming. At low tide, the rock walls of an ancient Hawaiian fishpond are visible. This southeast coastal area is where Lāna‘i’s sandy shoreline ends, giving way to the rising palis (cliffs) that extend to the northern shore’s Polihua (see above).
[Nāhā, southeast Lāna‘i at the end of Keōmuku Highway (Hwy. 44) (follow dirt road along eastern shore).]
Southeast Lāna‘i
Hulopo‘e Beach
Hulopo‘e Beach, southeast of Lāna‘i City, is a great place to swim and snorkel. Spinner dolphins (Stenella longisrostris; Hawaiian name: nai‘a) are frequently seen. Tidepools are located one side of the white, sandy beach, which is known for its clear blue waters.
Hulopo‘e Beach provides a nice place for children to swim, and is fronted by grassy areas nice for picnics. There are also camping facilities. Hulopo‘e is designated a Marine Life Conservation District.
[Hulopo‘e Beach, 8 miles (13 km) south of Lāna‘i City, at the south end of Mānele Road (Highway 440), near the Mānele Bay Hotel.]
Mānele Bay
Lāna‘i’s only public boat harbor, Mānele Bay was the main harbor before Kaumālapa‘u Harbor was constructed by Dole and his pineapple operation (see above). The harbor is now used by fishing boats as well as yachts and other pleasure craft. This is also where the ferry to Maui arrives and departs. Now designated as a Marine Life Conservation District, Mānele Bay is also the site of an ancient fishing village.
Pu‘u Pehe (Sweetheart Rock)
Hulopo‘e Beach and Mānele Bay are part of a State of Hawai‘i Marine Life Conservation District. A trail to the top of the ancient spatter cone that separates Hulopo‘e from Mānele Bay provides a great view of the 80-foot (24-m) high offshore sea stack called Pu‘u Pehe, or Sweetheart Rock.
According to legend a young warrior of Lāna‘i, Makakehau, brought a girl, Pehe, from Maui to the rock and hid her there because she was so beautiful. When she was killed in a storm the distraught warrior retrieved her body from the cave at the base of the rock. Makakehau then buried Pehe at the rock’s summit and leaped from the cliffs to his death. Pu‘u Pehe means “Pehe’s hill.”[cmxxvii]
Lodge at Kō‘ele
Ka Lokahi Ka Mālamalama Church
Near the entrance to the Lodge at Kō‘ele is Ka Lokahi Ka Mālamalama Church, constructed in 1938. This church was moved to its current site when the Lodge at Kō‘ele was built.
Maui
The Valley Isle
Overview of Maui
Land Area: 727.2 square miles (1,883.4 sq. km).
Size Comparison: 2nd largest Hawaiian Island.
Island Emblem: Pua Lokelani—Damask Rose (Rosa species).
Highest Elevation: 10,023 feet (3,055 m), at the summit of Haleakalā.
Official Nickname: The Valley Isle.
[Visitor Information: Lahaina Courthouse, 648 Wharf Street, 808-667-9193. ]
[Maui Visitors Bureau: www.visitmaui.com.]
[Illustration: Map—Maui]
Ringed with beautiful beaches, quiet coves and hidden waterfalls, Maui is about 48 miles (77 km) long by 26 miles (42 km) wide. During the November to May whale-watching season Maui is one of the best Hawaiian Islands to view koholā (Megaptera novaeangliae, humpback whales) breaching .
A well-known local saying is “Maui nō ka ‘oi,” which translates to “Maui excels”[cmxxviii] or “Maui is indeed the best.”[cmxxix] This popular Hawaiian saying comes from a song by that name written by Reverend Samuel Kapū.
Maui was formed by two separate volcanoes, which today are bridged by an isthmus of land that connects the two parts of the island. The West Maui Mountains rise to 5,788 feet (1,764 m) at Pu‘u Kukui (“Candlenut hill”[cmxxx]), and are older and more sculpted by erosion than the younger East Maui Mountains, which rise up broad, sloping hills to the 10,023-foot (3,055-m) summit of Haleakalā Volcano, a site of ancient Hawaiian astronomy.
Throughout the 1900s, Maui’s economy was centered on agriculture, especially sugar and pineapple. In the 1970s, resort development and tourism became the driving forces of Maui‘s economy.
Today the championship golf courses and beachfront resort hotels of western Maui’s Kā‘anapali and Kapalua are world-renowned, as is the bustling town of Lahaina. Other parts of the island remain remote, undeveloped, bathed in waterfalls and rainbows, and steeped in Maui’s rich cultural history.
Maui
Cultural / Historical Sites and Attractions
Western Maui
Lahaina
The Carthaginian II
Pioneer Inn
Banyan Tree Square
Lahanina Courthouse and Cannons
Fort
Masters’ Reading Room / Lahaina Restoration Foundation
Baldwin House
Hauola Stone
Lahaina Lighthouse
The Brick Palace
Wo Hing Temple Museum
Lahaina Whaling Museum
Waine‘e Cemetery and Waiola Congregational Church (Waine‘e Church)
Malu‘ulu-o-Lele Park / Lahaina Hongwanji Mission
Hale Pa‘ahao (“Stuck-in-Irons House”)
Maria Lanakila Church
Seamen’s Cemetery
Seamen’s Hospital
Lahaina Jodo Mission
Pioneer Sugar Mill
Lahainaluna Seminary
North of Lahaina
Wahikuli Wayside Beach Park
Hanaka‘ō‘ō Beach Park (Canoe Beach)
Kā‘anapali
Whaler’s Village Museum
Keka‘a (Black Rock)
Lahaina Kā‘anapali & Pacific Railroad
Kapalua
Nākālele Point / Kahakuloa
U.S. Coast Guard Lighthouse
Pu‘u-koa‘e (Kahukuloa Head)
Central Maui—Kahului and Wailuku
Wailuku Historic District
‘Īao Theater
Ka‘ahumanu Church
Keōpūolani Park and War Memorial Stadium
Bailey House Museum (Hale-Hō‘ike‘ike)
Kepaniwai Heritage Garden
‘Īao Valley
‘Īao Valley State Park
‘Īao Needle (Kūka‘emoku)
Hawai‘i Nature Center
Kanahā Pond Wildlife Refuge
Maui Tropical Plantation
Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum
Kahului Harbor
Maui Arts & Cultural Center
Castle Theater
A & B Amphitheater
Haleki‘i-Pihana State Monument
Upcountry Maui
Makawao
Komoda Store and Bakery
Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center
Kula
Kula Botanical Gardens
Church of the Holy Ghost
Polipoli Spring State Recreation Area
Haleakalā National Park
The Road to Hāna
Pā‘ia / Ho‘okipa Beach
The Hāna Highway
Huelo and Kailua
Ke‘anae Peninsula
Ke‘anae Overlook
Ke‘anae Arboretum
Wailua
Wailua Overlook
Wailua Canyon
Wailua Village
Our Lady of Fatima Shrine
Waikāne Falls
Wai‘anapanapa State Park
Hāna
Hāna Bay / Ka‘uiki
Ka‘uiki Head
Kaihalulu (Red Sand Beach)
Hotel Hāna-Maui
Hāna Ranch
Kōkī Beach / Hāmoa Beach
Ka-iwi-o-Pele
‘Ālau Island
Haneo‘o Road Loop
Pi‘ilane-hale Heiau / Kahanu Gardens
Hāna Cultural Center and Museum
Kīpahulu / ‘Ohe‘o Gulch
Pīpīwai Trail
Makahiku Falls Overlook
Waimoku Falls
Palapala Ho‘omau Congregational Church / The Grave of Charles Lindbergh
South of Lahaina
Olowalu
Olowalu to Mā‘alaea
Papawai Point
Molokini Islet
Mā‘alaea Bay and Small Boat Harbor
Maui Ocean Center
Kīhei
Kama‘ole Beach Parks
Keālia Pond National Wildlife Reserve
Kalama Beach Park
Ulua Beach
Wailea
Wailea Beach
Mākena Beach State Park
Pu‘u Ōla‘i Cinder Cone
La Pérouse Bay (Kalepolepo)
Cape Kīna‘u Peninsula
‘Āhihi-Kīna‘u Marine Preserve
Maui
Cultural / Historical Sites and Attractions
Western Maui
Lahaina
Lahaina was the capital of the Hawaiian Kingdom under the rule of King Kamehameha I in 1803-1804. Lahaina is known not only for its shopping and nightlife, but also for its rich, post-contact past, including many historic churches and homes.
The Carthaginian II
The Carthaginian II is a replica of the 960-ton (871-mton) brigantine Carthaginian, which ran between the Hawaiian Islands, China, and New England in the 1800s, and was one of the last square-riggers in the Hawaiian Islands. The Carthaginian sank in 1972 after hitting a reef outside of Lahaina Harbor.
The replica was built in Germany in 1920 and arrived in Lahaina in 1973, and then was docked at Lahaina (opposite the north end of Wharf Street). The vessel then underwent a seven year restoration/conversion into a Carthaginian replica and became known as the Carthaginian II. The ship included handcrafted masts and yards. The ship was later sunk and is now provides an attraction for scuba divers.
Pioneer Inn
On Lahaina’s small-boat harbor is the old Pioneer Inn, a Lahaina landmark. Built in 1901 (with additions in 1965), its ambiance harkens to the whaling era in the 1800s. The peak years for whaling ships visiting Lahaina were the 1840s, when the town’s bars and brothels were the denizens of hundreds of derelict sailors.
Up until the 1950s the Pioneer Inn was western Maui’s only hotel. Many prominent guests have stayed there over the years. A renovation of the Pioneer Inn took place in 1994.
[Pioneer Inn, 808-661-3636, 658 Wharf Street, Lahaina.]
Banyan Tree Square
Next to the Pioneer Inn is Banyan Tree Square, home to the nation’s largest banyan tree, which stands more than 60 feet (30 m) high and covers more than 2/3 acre (.3 ha). The tree is one of the world’s largest Indian Banyan trees (Ficus benghalensis), and also the largest banyan in the Hawaiian Islands and the United States. Lahaina town sheriff William Owen Smith planted the banyan tree on April 24, 1873 to mark the 50th anniversary of the first missionaries on Lahaina.
[Banyan Tree Square, Front Street between Hotel and Canal Streets, Lahaina.]
Lahaina Courthouse and Cannons
Next to the banyan tree is the old Lahaina Courthouse, a former center of government. The building was originally constructed in 1859, then rebuilt in 1925 and restored in 1999.
The Lahaina Courthouse was used for various functions in old Lahaina, serving as the collector’s office, governor’s office, post office, and local vault. The building’s basement was formerly a jail, and is now home to the Lahaina Arts Society. Artwork is on display in the former cells.
The four cannons now placed along the harbor waterfront near the old Courthouse came from the wreck of a Russian warship that wrecked and sank in Honolulu Harbor in 1816.
[Lahaina Courthouse, 808-661-0111, 649 Wharf Street, Lahaina, tours, open 9 to 5 daily.]
Fort
The ruins of an 1832 fort at Canal and Wharf Streets marks the site of a former prison that faces the harbor’s whaling ships (the prison’s main customers). A law prohibiting women swimming out to the ships was said to have been the cause of angry sailors lobbing cannonballs at Lahaina. The fort’s blocks were used to build a prison at Waine‘e and Prison Streets (see Hale Pa‘ahao below).
[Fort, Canal and Wharf Streets.]
Masters’ Reading Room / Lahaina Restoration Foundation
The Lahaina Restoration Foundation is located in the coral and stone (hard “blue rock”) building known as the Masters’ Reading Room, on the corner of Dickenson and Front Streets. Originally constructed in 1834, the building was restored in 1970 by the Lahaina Restoration Foundation.
During the whaling days, the upstairs of the building was used by sea captains as somewhat of an “officers club,” providing a place for the captains to read and perhaps get some respite from their rowdy crews while still keeping an eye on them. The Masters’ Reading Room had previously been used by missionary families as a storeroom.
[Masters’ Reading Room / Lahaina Restoration Foundation, 808-661-3262, 120 Dickenson Street, Lahaina, at Front Street, open 10-4 daily.]
Baldwin House
Next door to the Masters’ Reading Room is the restored Baldwin House, one of Lahaina’s oldest buildings. Constructed of coral and stone in 1834 by missionary Ephraim Spaulding, the home was later occupied by missionary doctor Reverend Dwight D. Baldwin and his family. The Baldwins moved into the home in 1836 and lived there until 1868. The house was also used as a medical office and for missionary purposes.
A seamen’s chapel was located behind the Baldwin House, and provided Christian reading rooms for use by sailors. In the early 1960s the Baldwin House was restored by the Lahaina Restoration Foundation. The original 24-inch (61-cm) thick stone walls of the Baldwin House are still standing, but are now plastered over.
Now open as a museum, the Baldwin House exhibits many antiques and other items, including fine furniture and china brought around Cape Horn by the Baldwins. Also on display is the family’s grand piano. The building now houses the Lahaina Restoration Foundation, which offers a walking tour brochure of the town.
[Baldwin House, 696 Front Street, Lahaina, 808-661-3262; tours 10 to 4:00 daily.]
Hauola Stone
Just offshore is Hauola Stone. According to Hawaiian legend, a woman was running from her enemies when the gods turned her into the flat, seat-shaped lava rock. This rock is said to possess powerful healing properties. In ancient times, mothers placed the child’s piko (umbilical cord) beneath the stone so that their child would be strong and healthy.
Lahaina Lighthouse
Just south of Hauola Stone is the Lahaina Lighthouse, said to be the Pacific’s oldest lighthouse. It was originally constructed in 1840 and then rebuilt in 1916.
[Lahaina Lighthouse, Lahaina]
The Brick Palace
In front of the Pioneer Inn are the remnants of a structure now called the Brick Palace. King Kamehameha I had two Australian ex-convicts build the structure using locally made bricks. Completed around 1800, it was likely the first Western-designed building in the Hawaiian Islands.
King Kamehameha I lived in the building for just one year, and for the next 70 years the structure was used as a meeting place and storehouse. It was last used in the 1850s. The building’s foundations and cornerstones were later excavated, and are now visible.
[Brick Palace, located at the makai (ocean) end of Market Street, Lahaina.]
Wo Hing Temple Museum
The Wo Hing Temple, located on Lahaina’s Front Street, was built in 1912 by a Chinese fraternal society called Chee Kung Tong, which was originally founded in the 1600s. The Lahaina temple was restored in 1983, and is now a museum exhibiting various Chinese artifacts, documents, and photos, as well as information about early plantation immigrants.
Also on display at Wo Hing Temple is Maui’s only public Taoist altar. The adjacent cookhouse has been converted into a small historic theater that shows films taken by Thomas Edison during his 1898 and 1905 visits to the Hawaiian Islands.
[Wo Hing Temple, 808-661-5553, 858 Front Street, Lahaina, 10-4:15 daily.]
Lahaina Whaling Museum
The Lahaina Whaling Museum displays a variety of whaling-era artifacts, including scrimshaw, harpoons, and a whalers’ try-pot that was used for boiling whale blubber. The Museum also has photos of the original Carthaginianmeeting its final fate as it sank outside Lahaina Harbor in 1972.
[Lahaina Whaling Museum, 865 Front Street (in Crazy Shirts store), Lahaina.]
Waine‘e Cemetery and Waiola Congregational Church (Waine‘e Church)
Located on Waine‘e Street in Lahaina is Waine‘e Cemetery, the final resting place of QueenKeōpūolanikauhiakama [Keōpūolani] (1778-1823), who became the sacred wife of King Kamehameha I at age 17. QueenKeōpūolani gave birth to two future kings, Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho (Kamehameha II) and Kauikeaouli (Kamehameha III), and a princess, Nāhi‘ena‘ena. An hour before her death, Queen Keōpūolani became the first native Hawaiian to receive the Protestant rite of baptism. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1778.)
Another prominent Hawaiian buried at Waine‘e Cemetery is Governor Hoapili (1776-1840), also known asUlumāheihei. He was given the name Hoapili because of his close friendship with Kamehameha I (Hoapili means “Close friend”[cmxxxi]). After King Kamehameha I’s death in 1819, Hoapili was entrusted with hiding King Kamehameha’s bones. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1819, May 8.)
After Keōpūolanikauhiakama [Keōpūolani] died, Hoapili married Kalākua (the daughter of Ke‘eaumoku Pāpa‘iaheahe and Nāmāhānaikaleleonalani [Nāmāhana]), and had a child, Kekāuluohi (Miriam ‘Auhea), who gave birth, with Charles Kana‘ina, to the future King Lunalilo. Kalākua also gave birth (with King Kamehameha I) to Kamāmalu, who became queen as wife of King Kamehameha II (Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho).
Hoapili married King Kamehameha’s sacred wife, Keōpūolani, becoming her sole husband when she abandoned polygamy. From 1836 to 1840, Hoapili was Governor of Lāna‘i, Maui, and Moloka‘i. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1776.) Another prominent person buried at Waine‘e Cemetery is Lahaina’s first missionary, Reverend William Richards.
Waiola Congregational Church is located next to the Waine‘e Cemetery, and was founded by Hoapili. Formerly on the site of Waiola Congregational Church was Waine‘e Church, which was constructed of stone by Hawaiians, by order of their chiefs, for the missionaries. The structure was completed in 1832, and Governor Hoapili named the church Ebenezer.
In 1838 the bell and steeple of Waine‘e Church fell down. Then in 1894 anti-annexation royalists set the church on fire because the church’s minister favored of annexation.
The structure was rebuilt, then burned down again in 1947 and was rebuilt once again. Just a few years later a storm toppled the structure. The current church was completed in 1953 and named Waiola, which means “Water [of] life.”[cmxxxii] Waine‘e means “Moving water.”[cmxxxiii]
[Waiola Church and Waine‘e Cemetery, 808-661-4349, 535 Waine‘e Street, Lahaina.]
Malu‘ulu-o-Lele Park / Lahaina Hongwanji Mission
Malu‘ulu-o-Lele means “Breadfruit shelter of Lele”[cmxxxiv] (Lele referred to the Lahaina district). This park was once home to Maui chiefs and later to King Kamehameha I, then his sons, King Kamehameha II (Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho) and King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli). Also located at the site was a royal burial chamber.
Next to Malu‘ulu-o-Lele Park is the Lahaina Hongwanji Mission, built in 1927.
[Lahaina Hongwanji Mission, 808-661-0640, 551 Waine‘e Street, Lahaina.]
Hale Pa‘ahao (“Stuck-in-Irons House”)
At the corner of Waine‘e and Prison Streets is an old prison known as Hale Pa‘ahao (“Stuck-in-Irons House”). Convicts built the prison’s 8-foot (2.4-m) high stone walls in 1852 with blocks taken from a fort that once stood on the town’s waterfront. (See Fort above.) Various exhibits, including ball and chain restraints and wall shackles, are a reminder of the prison’s heyday when the town was full of boisterous whalers and other salty seamen.
[Hale Pa‘ahao, Prison and Waine‘e Streets, Lahaina; open 8 to 5 daily.]
Maria Lanakila Church
On Waine‘e Street is Maria Lanakila Church, Maui’s first Catholic Church. The church was dedicated in 1858. Maria Lanakila means “Mary [Our Lady of] Victory.”[cmxxxv]
[Maria Lanakila Church, Waine‘e and Dickenson Streets, Lahaina.]
Seamen’s Cemetery
Next to Maria Lanakila Church is the Seamen’s Cemetery, where many whaling-era sailors were laid to rest. Also buried at the cemetery is a cousin of the famed Moby Dick author Herman Melville, and a man that came to the islands with Melville on the Acushnet.
Seamen’s Hospital
On Front Street is the old Seamen’s Hospital, now used for offices. Seamen’s Hospital was established in 1844 by the United States government to care for sick seamen (the State Department leased the building). A large anchor on the lawn fronting the building is a reminder of the many sick and injured seamen that visited this hospital.
A purported scandal at the hospital involved the adding of the names of deceased sailors to reimbursement sheets in order to collect fees from the United States government. A United States warship arrived and completed an investigation of the notoriously corrupt hospital, but the ship mysteriously disappeared at sea on its return voyage.
The Seamen’s Hospital building was originally constructed in the 1830s for use by the royal court of King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli). Adjacent to the old hospital is a sugar plantation camp residence built around 1900.
[Seamen’s Hospital, 808-661-3262, 1024 Front Street, Lahaina; the building is now used for offices.]
Lahaina Jodo Mission
Farther north along Front Street is the Lahaina Jodo Mission (open to the public), where a huge bronze Buddha statue that is said to be the largest outside of Asia was erected in 1968 to celebrate the 100 year anniversary of the immigration of Japanese to the Hawaiian Islands.
Pioneer Sugar Mill
Above the center of Lahaina is the Pioneer Sugar Mill, which began its West Maui operations in 1862 and harvested its last sugarcane crop in 1999 when Amfac/JMB closed the plant. The Pioneer Mill Company once farmed 17 miles (27 km) of coastal sugarcane fields,
During the early 1900s, about 1,600 Pioneer Mill Company workers were harvesting more than 5,000 acres (2,025 ha) and producing an annual crop of more than 45,000 tons (40,825 mtons). Amfac/JMB Hawai‘i closed the plant in 1999. Coffee and diversified agriculture products are now grown throughout the region.
Lahainaluna Seminary
The Lahainaluna Seminary is located at the end of Lahainaluna Road, a little over 1 mile (1.6 km) up from the Pioneer Sugar Mill. Though it is now a public high school, Lahainaluna was originally established in September of 1831 as the first English school in the Hawaiian Islands. The seminary’s goal was to provide advanced education for young Hawaiian men while training them to become preachers with the goal of advancing Christianity.
On February 14, 1834, the first issue of Lahainaluna Seminary’s four-page Hawaiian language weekly, Ka Lama Hawaii was printed. This was the first periodical printed in the North Pacific region.
In 1836, Lorrin Andrews (1795-1868) was head of Lahainaluna Seminary, and published the first significant Hawaiian-English vocabulary book, including about 5,700 words. (Note: Earlier lists had been published—see Hawaiian Language section, Chapter 3.) Andrews also published a grammar book of the Hawaiian language in 1854, and then a dictionary in 1865. Andrews was an associate justice of Hawai‘i’s Supreme Court, and a judge on the probate court.
In 1838, Lahainaluna’s Reverend Sheldon Dibble (1809-1845) published Ka Moolele Hawaii (Lahainaluna: Mission Press). As a history teacher at Lahainaluna, Dibble had his students collect oral histories from native Hawaiians (their own elders, and others), resulting in the gathering of a great deal of information about the pre-contact history of theHawaiian Islands. The information (for the first time) was extensively written using the newly constructed written Hawaiian language, which was modeled after the oral Hawaiian language. (See Hawaiian Language section, Chapter 3.)
Dibble’s historical reports were developed with the assistance of two particularly prolific Lahainaluna students, David Malo (c.1793-1853) and Samuel Mānaiakalani Kamakau (1815-1876), now highly regarded as two of the era’s most prominent Hawaiian historians.
Malo and Kamakau collected and document many legends, genealogies and chants as well as specific details of historical events of pre-contact Hawai‘i. (See Writings of Ancient Hawaiian History section, Appendix 2.)
In 1839, Dibble published A History and General Views of the Sandwich Islands Mission (New York: Taylor & Dodd). Then in 1843 Dibble published the History of the Sandwich Islands (Lahaina, Maui: Press of the Mission Seminary). (See (See Writings of Ancient Hawaiian History section, Appendix 2.)
Malo’s writings were dated around 1840, but were not published in English until Nathaniel Emerson’s translation entitled Hawaiian Antiquities (Ka Moolele Hawaii), published by the Hawaiian Gazette Company in 1903. David Malo’s gravesite is located on the hillside above Lahainaluna.
Kamakau wrote historical articles for Hawaiian language newspapers Ke Au ‘Oko‘a and Ka Nupepa Kū‘oko‘a, producing more than 200 articles between 1866 and 1871. Samuel Mānaiakalani Kamakau was also a founding member of the Royal Hawaiian Historical Society in 1841, and served in the Legislature from 1851 until his death in 1876.
Kamakau’s Ruling Chiefs of Hawai‘i (Honolulu: Kamehameha Schools Press, 1961) was translated by Mary Kawena Pūku‘i (1895-1986) and published by Kamehameha Schools Press in 1961.
A second volume of Kamakau’s writings, entitled Ka Po‘e Kahiko: The People of Old (Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1964) was translated by Pūku‘i and published by Bishop Museum Press in 1964, 88 years after Kamakau passed away. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1815.)
In 1845, the Lahainaluna Seminary Press published the first English-Hawaiian Dictionary, which was prepared by Artemas Bishop (1795-1872) and Joseph S. Emerson (1800-1867). (See Hawaiian Language section, Chapter 3.) The first printing press in the Hawaiian Islands was established on the Lahainaluna grounds in 1837, six years after the school was established. The Ramage press was used to produce Bibles as well as a variety of other books totaling hundreds of thousands of pages. It also produced the first newspaper in the Hawaiian Islands.
A restoration of Lahainaluna’s printing house was completed in 1982. A replica of the original Ramage press is now on display at Lahainaluna’s Hale Pa‘i (“House [of] Printing”) along with numerous examples of early printing efforts, including manuscripts, books, and newspapers. The replica press may be used by visitors to print a page from the first primer in the Hawaiian Islands.
[Hale Pa‘i at Lahainaluna, 808-661-3262, 980 Lahainaluna Road, Lahaina.]
North of Lahaina
Wahikuli Wayside Beach Park
Wahikuli Wayside Beach Park is 2 miles (3.2 km) north of Lahaina. Wahikuli means “Noisy place.”[cmxxxvi] The beach is a good place to swim and snorkel, with restrooms and showers available. The beach park is across the street from the post office, police station and civic center.
Hanaka‘ō‘ō Beach Park (Canoe Beach)
Hanaka‘ō‘ō Beach Park, north of Wahikulu Wayside Beach Park, is also a nice place to swim if the waves aren’t too big. Also called Canoe Beach, the waters are used by local outrigger canoe paddlers who are commonly seen traversing the bay’s waters. Hanaka‘ō‘ō means “The digging stick bay.”[cmxxxvii]
Kā‘anapali
Just 2 miles (3.2 km) up the coast from Lahaina is the resort area of Kā‘anapali, which includes a stretch of pristine white-sand beach more than 2 miles (3.2 km) long. Kā‘anapali also includes six high-rise hotels fronting the beach, with numerous swimming pools, two 18-hole championship golf courses, and 40 tennis courts. The Royal Lahaina Resort Tennis Ranch has a 3,500 seat stadium court.
The three-story Whalers Village shopping center has many restaurants and stores as well as the Whalers Village Museum, which includes various photos, artifacts (e.g., harpoons), scrimshaw, whale models, ship’s logs, and displays related to whaling. The whaling era took place from about 1825-1860, when ships arrived from New England as well as Canada and England. The museum also includes a re-created whale ship forecastle as well as a scale model of a whale ship. The museum is located on the mezzanine level of the shopping center. Above the entrance is a 40-foot (12-m) skeleton of a palaoa (Physeter macrocephalus, sperm whale).
Kā‘anapali resort began when the Royal Lahaina Hotel and the Sheraton Maui Hotel were opened in 1962 on former sugarcane land owned by Amfac, owners of the Pioneer Sugar Mill. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1849.) Today Kā‘anapali Beach, fronting the large hotels, is a mecca of sunbathers, windsurfers, parasailers, and boat cruises as well as shops and concession stands. Kā‘anapali’s offshore waters are also frequented by koholā (Megaptera novaeangliae, humpback whales) during the winter months, so whale watching is often possible from shore.
The lobby of the Hyatt Regency Maui includes a multi-million dollar art collection. Lāna‘i and Moloka‘i are visible across the ‘Au‘au Channel from Kā‘anapali.
[Kā‘anapali, directions: take Honoapi‘ilani Highway to any of three Kā‘anapali exits.]
[Visitor Information, 808-661-3271, 2530 Keka‘a Drive.]
[Whalers Village Museum, 808-661-5992, 2435 Kā‘anapali Parkway, Suite 816, open 9:30-10 daily, free admission, www.whalersvillage.com.]
Keka‘a (Black Rock)
Near the Sheraton Maui Hotel is the sacred site called Keka‘a, commonly known as Black Rock, Maui’s westernmost point. At this site in ancient days Maui’s King Kahekilinui‘ahumanu [Kahekili] was known to leap from the rock into the sea. Today other brave souls make the exciting jump from atop the rock.
If the currents aren’t too strong, the southern side of the rock is a great snorkeling location, as is the horseshoe-shaped cove off the tip of the rock. According to legend, the rock’s origins involve a man named Moemoe insulted the demigod Māui, who then turned Moemoe into the rock.
Keka‘a is said to be a place from which spirits departed to go to their ancestral homelands. Keka‘a means “The rumble,”[cmxxxviii] and refers to sounds made by the rock during storms.
Lahaina Kā‘anapali & Pacific Railroad
The Hawaiian Islands once had 33 industrial railroads. The main use of these railroads was to transport sugarcane to mills and bring the workers to the fields. Seven common carrier railroads in the Hawaiian Islands also transported passengers and freight. Today the Lahaina Kā‘anapali & Pacific Railroad, the “Sugarcane Train,” is Maui’s only passenger train.
From about 1890 to 1950, the Sugarcane Train was used for transporting the sugarcane to the mill. The 1890s vintage train with replica Kalākaua coaches now provides a nice ride through the former sugarcane fields over the 6 miles (9.7 km) from Lahaina past Kā‘anapali to Pu‘ukoli‘i. The scenic train ride traverses a wooden trestle that spans 415 feet (126 m).
[Lahaina Kā‘anapali & Pacific Railroad
Lahaina Station, 661-0089, Hinau St. off Honoapi‘ilani Highway (Highway 30), 1½ blocks north of Lahainaluna Road.
Kā‘anapali Station, Mauka side of Highway 30 off Pu‘ukoli‘i Road.
Kapalua
On the northwestern most part of Maui is Kapalua, including five ocean bays formed by lava peninsulas. The Kapalua Bay Hotel was built in 1978 by the Maui Land & Pineapple Company. Today it remains as a vacation spot for many rich and famous guests. The resort also has gift shops and some of Maui’s finest (and most expensive) fare. Less expensive, local-style plate lunches are available at Honolua Store.
[Kapalua Discovery Center, Kapalua Shops, 115 Bay Drive.
[Kapalua Nature Society, 808-669-0244, 800 Kapalua Drive.]
Nākālele Point / Kahakuloa
Western Maui has beautiful mountains, rugged and remote beaches, and pristine bays that provide spectacular summer snorkeling. The region’s ahupua‘a (traditional watershed land divisions) are still inhabited by the descendants of ancient royalty.
North of Kapalua and Honolua Bay, the road winds along the coast around the top of the island to Nākālele Point and then south to Kahakuloa (“The tall lord”[cmxxxix]), a small village reminiscent of old Maui,. The nearby coast has great swimming and snorkeling locations.
Nākālele Point is a lava landscape with erupting geysers of water when the waves are breaking. There is a modest sized U. S. Coast Guard Lighthouse. A 636-foot (194-m) hill on the south side of Kahakuloa Bay is known as Pu‘u-koa‘e (“Tropicbird hill”[cmxl]), also called Kahakuloa Head, which provides habitat for various native seabirds. This area of western Maui’s coast has good swimming and snorkeling spots as well as hiking opportunities.
[Kahakuloa, North end of Honoapi‘ilani Highway (Hwy. 30), western Maui.]
Central Maui—Wailuku and Kahului
Central Maui is the isthmus separating eastern and western Maui, includes the towns of Wailuku and Kahului. Historic Wailuku is the county seat, while Kahului Harbor hosts cruise ships and ocean barges. Kahului is home to the Maui Arts & Cultural Center (see below). Ka‘ahumanu Shopping Center in Kahului is Maui’s largest mall, and includes a Visitor Information Center.
Wailuku Historic District
The Wailuku Historic district is located on Ka‘ahumanu Avenue, and includes the ‘Īao Theater, a well-photographed local landmark. Built in 1927 and later restored in the Art Deco style, the theater has long been the site of community gatherings, and is home to the Maui Community Theater.
Wailuku’s Historic District includes numerous buildings listed on the National Register of Historic Places. A self-guided walking tour brochure is provided free by the Wailuku Main Street Association (see below). The mayor’s office is at the corner of Main and High Streets.
[Wailuku Historic District, Market, Vineyard, and High Streets, Wailuku.]
[‘Īao Theater, 808-242-6969, 68 North Market Street, Wailuku.]
[Wailuku Main Street Association, 2062 Main Street, Wailuku, 808-244-3888.]
Ka‘ahumanu Church
Located on High Street, this New England style wooden church was constructed in 1876. The church is said to have been built at the site after Queen Ka‘ahumanu attended a service at the location and then asked that a permanent church be built there. Ka‘ahumanu Church still has an all-Hawaiian language Sunday service.
On High Street is Ka‘ahumanu Church
[Ka‘ahumanu Church, 808-244-5189, 103 South High Street, Wailuku.]
Keōpūolani Park and War Memorial Stadium
Keōpūolani Park and the War Memorial Stadium (where the annual Hula Bowl is held) are located on 101 acres (41 ha) in Kahului on Ka‘ahumanu Ave. A botanical garden at the Park is a good place to see native plants, and the park has a 3 mile (4.8 km) walking path.
[Keōpūolani Park and War Memorial Stadium, Kanaloa Ave, Kahului.]
Bailey House Museum (Hale-Hō‘ike‘ike)
On Main Street across from Ka‘ahumanu Church is the Bailey House, built from 1833 to 1850 using lava rock and native woods such as koa (Acacia koa). Edward Bailey supervised the construction of the building which housed the Wailuku Female Seminary, Maui’s first Hawaiian girls’ school, which trained girls in the “feminine arts.”
The Wailuku Female Seminary was founded by Edward and Caroline Bailey, who came to the Hawaiian Islands with the Eighth Company of American missionaries in 1837. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1837, April 9.). The building was home to the Wailuku Female Seminary until about 1847, and then served as the Bailey’s house until 1888. Edward Bailey was the head of the Wailuku Female Seminary.
The structure is now plastered over, and is known as the Bailey House Museum. Edward Bailey was also an artist, and some of his oil paintings may now be seen at the museum. Also on display is ancient Hawaiian weaponry, kapa (tapa) barkcloth, and other culturally significant items. The structure is also known as Hale-Hō‘ike‘ike (House of Display), and it is operated by the Maui Historical Society.
[Bailey House Museum, 808-244-3326, 2375-A Main St., Wailuku, www.mauimuseum.org, open 10-4, Mon-Sat.]
Kepaniwai Heritage Garden
Further up, Main Street becomes ‘Īao Valley Road and leads to Kepaniwai Park & Heritage Gardens, a county park where ethnic displays memorialize various cultures, including traditional dwellings of the Hawaiian Islands, New England, Portugal, China, and the Philippines.
‘Īao Valley
‘Īao Valley, an ancient burial place of chiefs, is also the site of one of King Kamehameha I’s most famous battles. In 1790, Kamehameha landed his troops on Maui to fight against Kalanikūkupule, son of Kahekilinui‘ahumanu [Kahekili]. Fighting between the two groups of warriors began in Wailuku, and the battle proceeded up into ‘Īao Valley where precipitous cliffs at the head of the valley blocked escape.
Kamehameha’s forces had the advantage of superior western weapons (muskets) as well as a cannon manned by the foreigners John Young (‘Olohana) and Isaac Davis (‘Aikake). (See Olowalu above.) Kamehameha’s forces prevailed in the conflict, and the island of Maui came under Kamehameha’s rule.
In Kamehameha’s victory at ‘Īao Valley, dead bodies from both sides are said to have blocked the river, giving the battle its name, the Battle of Kepaniwai (“Battle of the water dam”[cmxli]). Kahekili’s son, Kalanikūpule, fled over a narrow mountain pass along with his high chiefs, and they sailed to O‘ahu where Kahekili began war preparations. (SeeChapter 11, Timeline: 1790 for more details of the Battle of Kepaniwai.)
‘Īao Valley is also home to the 1,200-foot (366-m) tall ‘Īao Needle, which stands at an elevation of 2,250 feet (686 m) above sea level. ‘Iāo means “Cloud supreme,”[cmxlii] and was the site of ancient rituals.
At the end of ‘Īao Valley Road is ‘Īao Valley State Park and the prominent ‘Īao Needle, known in ancient times as Kūka‘emoku. Rising up steeply about 1,200 feet (366 m) from the floor of ‘Īao Valley, ‘Īao Needle’s peak stands at an elevation of 2,250 feet (686 m).
The Hawai‘i Nature Center provides hiking and educational opportunities in ‘Īao Valley. The Interactive Nature Museum with more than 30 hands-on exhibits about Hawaiian natural history.
[‘Īao Valley State Park, Hawai‘i 32, ‘Īao Valley Rd., 808-984-8109.]
[Hawai‘i Nature Center, 808-244-6500, 875 ‘Īao Valley Road, Wailuku, open 10-4 daily, wwwhawaiinaturecenter.com.]
Kanahā Pond Wildlife Refuge
Located in Central Maui, Kanahā Pond Wildlife Refuge is home to many native birds including the endangered ae‘o (Himantopus mexicanus knudseni, Hawaiian black-necked stilt) and the ‘alae ke‘oke‘o (Fulica alai, Hawaiian coot).
[Kanahā Pond Wildlife Refuge, 808-984-8100, 2 miles (3.2 km) west of junction of Hāna Highway (Hwy. 36), and Haleakalā Highway (Hwy. 37).]
Maui Tropical Plantation
Maui Tropical Plantation is an agricultural theme park set on 60 acres (24 ha) of former sugarcane land located in Central Maui off the Honoapi‘ilani Highway (Hwy. 30) just outside of Wailuku. A narrated half-hour tram ride educates visitors about sugarcane varieties and growing techniques
Maui Tropical Plantation also displays historic and cultural exhibits, and there are opportunities for coconut and fruit tasting as well as lei making. The “country store” sells many locally-made products.
[Maui Tropical Plantation & Country Store, 808-244-7643, 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Highway (Hwy. 30), Waikapū, open 9-5 daily.]
Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum
Maui’s sugarcane days are relived at Central Maui’s Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum. The firm of Alexander & Baldwin was one of the “Big Five” companies, which also included: Castle & Cooke; Amfac; Theo H. Davies; and C. Brewer. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1858.)
The Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum features exhibits about the production of sugarcane (including a scale model of a cane crusher) as well as displays about immigrants and plantation life. Also told is the story of Samuel Alexander and Henry Baldwin, including their ambitious irrigation ditch construction projects, and their battles with Claus Spreckels over Upcountry water.
The firm of Alexander & Baldwin was originally established in 1870 by Samuel Thomas Alexander and Henry Perrine Baldwin. Baldwin (who had lost his arm in a factory accident) and Alexander had purchased 12 acres (4.9 ha) of land in Makawao, Maui for $110 just a year earlier (1869) for the purpose of growing sugarcane. In 1876, the firm began the construction of the 17-mile (27-km) long Hāmākua irrigation ditch to carry water from Haleakalā to East Maui.
The Hawaiian Sugar Company was established by Alexander & Baldwin in 1889 in Makaweli, Kaua‘i, and then in 1894 began its own sugar agency in San Francisco, California. In 1898, Alexander & Baldwin took control of the Hawaiian Commercial & Sugar Company in Pu‘unēnē, Maui, and then incorporated in the Hawaiian Islands in 1900. Today the firm of Alexander & Baldwin is worth more than $900 million. The company owns Matson Navigation, numerous commercial properties on the United States Mainland, and significant amounts of land in the Hawaiian Islands.
The Sugar Museum is located across from the Hawaiian Commercial & Sugar Company sugar mill, which began operating in 1902, and at one time was the world’s largest sugar mill. Workers and plantation families lived in Pu‘unēnē, which was home to as many as 10,000 workers in 1930. From the museum, Wailuku is reached by traveling northwest to the end of Pu‘unēnē Avenue and then turning left on Ka‘ahumanu Avenue.
[Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum, 808-871-8058, 3957 Hansen Road (at Pu‘unēnē Avenue), Pu‘unēnē, 9:30-4:30, Mon.-Sat. (open Sundays during the summer), www.sugarmuseum.com.]
Kahului Harbor
Kahului Harbor is the island’s main port and Maui’s only deep-draft harbor. It is also the destination of weekly cruise ship stops as well as the arrival point of cargo ships.
[Kahului Harbor, Kahului Beach Road, Kahului.]
Maui Arts & Cultural Center
Located above Kahului Harbor, the Maui Arts & Cultural Center is a world-class facility, commonly known as the “Center,” this $32 million complex was built by generous public donations, and includes the luxurious 1,200 seat Castle Theater (with orchestra, mezzanine, and balcony levels). Less formal affairs, such as rock and roll shows, take place in the A & B Amphitheater. Also at the Center are exhibits, classrooms, an art gallery, another theater, and a lava rock wall.
[Maui Arts & Cultural Center, 808-242-2787, Box office: 808-242-7469, 1 Cameron Way, Kahului Beach Road (above Kahului Harbor), Kahului; open 9-5 weekdays.]
Haleki‘i-Pihana State Monument
King Kamehameha I’s sacred wife Queen Keōpūolanikauhiakama [Keōpūolani] was born at this location. The site was also the residence of the residence of Kahekilinui‘ahumanu [Kahekili], Maui’s famous warrior and last ruling chief, who was conquered by King Kamehameha I. This is also where King Kamehameha I came after the battle to make an offering to his war god.
The site, with panoramic views of central Maui, consists of two heiau: Haleki‘i and Pihanakalani. Pihanakalani was a luakini (where human sacrifices were performed), and is thought to have been the site where King Kamehameha I enacted the last of such sacrifices on Maui.
Haleki‘i Heiau was rebuilt in 1958 with the goal of replicating its original structure as it looked when it was built, which is thought to have occurred around A.D. 1200.
[Haleiki‘i-Pihana Heiau State Monument, Kea Place, off Kūhiō Place, from Waiehu Beach Road (Hwy. 340), Kahului, Open 7-7 daily.]
Upcountry
Maui’s “upcountry” towns offer leisurely walks through botanical gardens as well as many scenic views. The upcountry region starts at about the 1,000-foot (305-m) elevation, at Pukalani (“Heavenly Gate”[cmxliii]), and then ascends higher on Haleakalā’s slopes to the ranching communities of Makawao, Kula, Kēōkea, and ‘Ulupalakua.
[University of Hawaii Maui Agricultural Substation, 808-878-1213, 209 Mauna Place, off Copp Rd.]
[Enchanting Floral Garden, 808-878-2531, Hawai‘i 37 at Milepost 10, Kula.]
Makawao
The town borders ranch lands, and still evokes the paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) spirit. Local rodeos include the annual Makawao Rodeo held every July 4. Makawao’s false-front buildings give the town an Old West feel.
Many of Makawao’s original founders were Portuguese and Japanese immigrants who came to the Hawaiian Islands to work on the sugar plantations, and then later moved “upcountry.” A Makawao town landmark is the Komoda Store and Bakery, which has changed little in the last 75 years. Also located in Makawao is Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center, in an old plantation-era home. Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center offers classes as well as exhibits.
[Makawao, Highway 365, East Maui.]
[Komoda Store and Bakery, 808-572-7261, 3674 Baldwin Avenue.]
[Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center, 808-572-6560, 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, www.maui.net/c.hui, open M-Sat., 10-4.]
Kula
Kula is known for its flower farms where protea, bird of paradise, orchids, carnations, and many other flowers bloom in great quantities. Kula farmers also produce a variety of agricultural products, including large strawberries, sweet Kula onions, and various specialty items used in Maui’s finer restaurants.
Kula Botanical Gardens is a 6-acre (2.4-ha) garden at an elevation of about 3,300 feet (1,006 m), and displays various native and Polynesian-introduced trees and plants as well as many exotic flowers, including an orchid house and about 60 varieties of proteas. A gazebo, aviary, and koi pond also add to the setting. On the nearby property are twelve thousand pine trees, and about 1,800 are sold each Christmas.
Kula’s Church of the Holy Ghost was built in 1897. The church has a baroque-style altar and a replica of the crown of Portugal’s Queen Isabella, which was a gift from the Portuguese royal family.
[Kula Botanical Gardens, 808-878-1715, open 9-4 daily.]
Polipoli Spring State Recreation Area
Polipoli Spring State Recreation Area is located on Haleakalā’s western slope at an elevation of 6,200 feet (1890 m) in the Kula Forest Reserve. Numerous hiking trails at Polipoli lead through coniferous forests that include sequoia and redwood groves as well as cedars and pines. Other species include eucalyptus, cypress, and ash. The region was extensively planted in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC), a work program that was instituted during the Depression.
Camping at Polipoli is allowed with permits, and one cabin is available for rent (see information below).
[Polipoli Spring State Recreation Area, 808-984-8109. Directions: From Kula, take Kekaulike Avenue (Hawai‘i 377), turn up Waipoli Road; Reservations: Division of State Parks.]
Haleakalā National Park
East Maui, the drier leeward side of Maui, is dominated by Haleakalā Volcano, an important location in ancient Hawaiian culture. According to legend, Hina, the mother of the demigod Māui, did not have time to dry her kapa cloth, and so she asked her trickster son Māui to do something about the short days. Māui saw the sun appear at the top of Haleakalā each morning and then race across the sky, so he went there and waited for the sun to rise. When the sun appeared, Māui lassoed its rays and made it agree to move more slowly across the sky. Haleakalā is defined as“House [used] by the sun.”[cmxliv] or “House of the shadow of the sun”[cmxlv] (hale means “house,” aka means“shadow,” and lā means “sun.” Ancient astronomers of the Hawaiian Islands used the bowl of the summit crater somewhat like a giant sundial, observing the points of rising and setting of the sun that revealed to them the beginning and end of particular seasons.
According to legend, Māui went to Haleakalā to seek the knowledge of a‘o hōkū (astronomers) there, who used the movement of shadows passing over the bowl of the summit crater to study the transition of the sun. Haleakalā summit is said to have been an ancient school of astronomy, and the traditional legend of Māui ensnaring the sun is said to mean, more literally, that he snared the knowledge of the sun, and then went on to become the most famous ho‘okele (navigator) in all of ancient Polynesia.
Today locals consider the summit of Haleakalā, which rises to 10,023 feet (3,055 m), the best place in the world to see the sunrise. Many visitors arrive before first light to stand in awe as the sun arrives.
The volcano is still potentially active. In 1790 Haleakalā released an estimated 22 square miles (57 sq. km) of lava, totaling nearly one billion cubic feet (28,316,847 cu. m) of lava. The lava flows reached the sea and formed the Cape Kīna‘u Peninsula, changing the shape of the southwest Maui coastline. An ancient proverb states, “Akāka wale o Haleakalā,” (“Haleakalā stands in full view.”), which was “...said of anything that is very obvious or clearly understood.”[cmxlvi]
Relatively recent lava, ash, and cinder flows have left black, yellow, gray, and red streaks across the summit crater of Haleakalā. The 21-square-mile (54.4-sq-km) summit crater is 7 miles (11.3 km) long and 3,000 feet (914 m) deep. Haleakalā’s summit crater is a moonscape of brown, red, green, and black mineral deposits, as well as cinder cones, some of which are more than 600 feet (183 m) tall. The summit area is so lunar-like it was actually used by astronauts training for missions to the moon.
A unique phenomenon occurs at the summit area when mist or clouds roll into the summit crater. A person standing at an overlook may find their shadow cast onto the clouds below and completely encircled by a rainbow. This phenomenon is known as akakū ānuenue (rainbow apparition), and is also known as the “Specter of the Brocken,” referring to a place in Germany where this phenomenon also occurs.
Science installations atop Haleakalā include the Advanced Electro-Optical System 3.7-meter Telescope (1997); the Mees Solar Observatory (1964); the Lunar Ranging Facility (1976/1984); and the Maui Space Surveillance Site and Haleakalā Observatories Projects.
[Photograph: Haleakalā Summit]
[Haleakalā National Park, 808-572-4400, 871-5054; Summit Visitor Center, 11 miles (18 km) from entrance; www.nps.gov/hale.]
[Pony Express Tours (in summit caldera), 808-667-2200.]
The Road to Hānā
Pā‘ia / Ho‘okipa Beach
Pā‘ia is a former sugarcane town, which had a mill and plantation housing. Pā‘ia grew rapidly during World War II when marines were stationed at the nearby town of Ha‘ikū.
About 2 miles (3.2 km), past Pā‘ia is Ho‘okipa Beach, a world famous windsurfing and surfing location where experts of the sport ply their trade in the offshore wind and waves.
[Pā‘ia, junction of Highways 390 and 36.]
[Ho‘okipa Beach, 2 miles (3.2 km) past Pā‘ia on Highway 36.]
The Hāna Highway
The road to “heavenly Hāna” begins after passing the town of Pā‘ia and the famous windsurfer beach of Ho‘okipa.
From Pā‘ia, the Hāna Highway (Hwy. 360) proceeds to wind its way along 53 miles (85 km) of rugged lava coastline and past dozens of waterfalls. The road also rounds 617 turns and crosses over 56 bridges, most of them one lane, and each with its own poetic name.
Along the Hāna Highway are many pleasant stops, including several wayside parks with waterfall views as well as some opportunities for short hikes.
Huelo and Kailua
A small farm town, Huelo is the site of two churches and several Bed and Breakfast accommodations. Kailua’s residents are mostly employees of Alexander & Baldwin. Near Mile Marker 11 is the bridge over Puahokamoa Streamwith waterfalls and pools as well as picnic tables (but no restrooms).
[Huelo and Kailua, Mile Markers 5 and 6, Hāna Highway (Hwy. 360).]
Ke‘anae Peninsula
Ke‘anae Overlook is located near Mile Marker 17, with great views over the lo‘i kalo (taro ponds) of Ke‘anae and the Pacific Ocean. A turnoff from the main road near Mile Marker 17 leads to the Ke‘anae Peninsula, the site of ancient lo‘i kalo (taro patches) and more scenic, rugged lava shoreline.
[Ke‘anae Peninsula, Overlook, near Mile Marker 17, Hāna Highway (Hwy. 360).]
Ke‘anae Arboretum
Ke‘anae Arboretum displays many native and Polynesian-introduced plants. The Ke‘anae Arboretum also has a swimming hole on the Pi‘ina‘au Stream. A hiking trail near a lo‘i kalo (taro patch) leads to a nice forest area.
[Ke‘anae Arboretum, Hāna Highway (Hwy. 360), Mile Marker 17, Ke‘anae, open daily.]
Wailua
Wailua Overlook provides views of Wailua Canyon and Wailua Village. At Wailua Village is the historic church now called Our Lady of Fatima Shrine, and formerly called St. Gabriel’s Catholic Church. The historic church was built of coral in 1860.
[Wailua Overlook, near Mile Marker 21, Hāna Highway (Hwy. 360), Wailua.]
Waikāne Falls
A prodigious supply of water makes Waikāne Falls among the most scenic of the waterfalls along the Hāna Highway.
[Waikāne, just past Mile Marker 21, Hāna Highway (Hwy. 360), Wailua.]
Wai‘anapanapa State Park
Just before the town of Hāna is Wai‘anapanapa State Park, a scenic camping and picnic spot on a grassy lawn atop the coastline’s black sand beaches. Also located on this stretch of coastline are tide pools, sea caves, and lava stone arches. Sacred sites nearby include a heiau (sacred place of worship) and a burial site. Cabins at Wai‘anapanapa are available by advance reservation.
[Wai‘anapanapa State Park, 808-984-8109, near Mile Marker 32, Hāna.]
Hāna
On Maui’s eastern shore is “Heavenly Hāna,” known for its spectacular coastline and beautiful beaches. Hāna is also known for its many rivers and streams, scenic waterfalls, and refreshing swimming holes.
The town of Hāna is centered on Hāna Bay. On the southern side of Hāna Bay is Ka‘uiki, the site of major battles between warriors from the islands of Hawai‘i and Maui. A short trail on the right side of Hāna Bay leads to the cave that was the birthplace of Queen Ka‘ahumanu (1768-1832).
At the base of Ka‘uiki Head is the beach called Kaihalulu, also known as Red Sand Beach. The red sand was produced by the erosion of a nearby cinder cone. Kaihalulu means “Roaring sea.”[cmxlvii]
Hotel Hāna-Maui
Hāna is the site of Maui’s first resort, the Hotel Hāna-Maui, which opened in 1961 and has since hosted many famous guests including Clark Gable. The low-key hotel includes a restaurant, bar, and gift shops.
The last sugarcane plantation in the area shut down in the 1940s. Ranching became a mainstay of the region’s economy after 1946 when rancher Paul Fagan built Hotel Hāna-Maui and stocked a cattle ranch in the surrounding area. A cross on the hill above the hotel was placed there in memory of Fagan.
[Hotel Hāna-Maui, 808-248-8211, Hāna Highway (Hwy. 360), Hāna.]
Hāna Ranch
The Hāna Ranch encompasses 3,000 acres (1,214 ha).
Kōkī Beach / Hāmoa Beach
About 2 miles (3.2 km) past Hāna are Kōkī Beach and Hāmoa Beach, and the important Hawaiian cultural sites known as Ka-iwi-o-Pele (“The bone of Pele”) and ‘Ālau Island, which is a seabird sanctuary offshore of Kōkī Beach. According to Hawaiian legend this is where the demigod Maui fished up the Hawaiian Islands from the sea. ‘Ālau means“Many rocks.”[cmxlviii]
The beaches are accessed by taking the 1½-mile (2.4-km) Haneo‘o Road Loop that runs past both Kōkī and Hāmoa beaches and also passes two ancient loko i‘a (fishponds). Hāmoa Beach is used by patrons of the Hotel Hāna-Maui. Public access is provided by steps leading to the beach.
[Kōkī Beach/Hāmoa Beach, turnoff is about 2 miles (3.2 km) past Hāna, ½-mile (.8 km) south of Hāna Ranch headquarters.]
Pi‘ilane-hale Heiau / Kahanu Gardens
Just north of Hāna town is Pi‘ilane-hale Heiau, said to be the largest of all heiau (sacred places of worship) in the Hawaiian Islands. The walls of the structure are up to 90 feet (27 m) high. The heiau was built for the famous Maui chief Pi‘ilani around A.D. 1400.
Pi‘ilani also supervised the building of a 10-foot (3-m) wide road encircling Maui. The heiau, still overseen by local caretakers, offers a brochure for those interested in a self-guided tour (for a fee).
and is now located within the 472-acre (191-ha) Kahanu Gardens, which exhibits Pacific Island plant collections, particularly the important cultural plants of Melanesia, Micronesia, and Polynesia. The Gardens are known for having one of the largest collections anywhere of cultivars of breadfruit.
Groups of four or more may reserve guided tours, which include the 122-acre (49-ha) Kahanu Garden
[Pi‘ilane-hale Heiau and Kahanu Gardens, 808-248-8912. Directions: At Mile Marker 31, turn left on ‘Ula‘ino Road, proceed onto gravel road, and then another 1½ miles (2.4 km), Open 9-3 M-F.]
Hāna Cultural Center and Museum
The Hāna Cultural Center is located on the Hāna Highway (Hwy. 360) in a former police station that was built in 1871. The Cultural Center provides information and exhibits about the history of the region. Also on display are traditional thatched structures and Hawaiian artifacts.
[Hāna Cultural Center, 808-248-8622, Uakea & Hāna Roads, near Mile Marker 35, Hāna Highway (Hwy. 360), open 10-4 daily, www.planet-hawaii.com/hana.]
Kīpahulu / Ohe‘o Gulch
Kīpahulu is about 10 miles (16 km) south of Hāna, and is the site of dense rainforest and the popular ‘Ohe‘o Gulch, commonly (though inappropriately) called Seven Sacred Pools, a name not favored by Hawaiians as the pools did not have a sacred history. This whole area (Kīpahulu) is part of Haleakalā National Park.
The Pīpīwai Trail provides a ½-mile (.8-km) hike to the Makahiku Falls Overlook. A trail to the left leads to the swimming hole at the top of the falls. Beware of rising waters as this pool may be dangerous. The trail goes another 1½ miles (2.4 km), passing through groves of bamboo and leading to Waimoku Falls, which plunges 400 feet (122 m) down the mountain.
Another pool is found at the base of Waimoku Falls. This pool was partially filled by a 1976 landslide caused by an earthquake. Falling rocks (from the sheer cliff above) remain a danger, so swimming in this pool is not recommended.
Yet another swimming hole can be found by walking up the small stream that is about 100 yards (91 m) before Waimoku Falls. About halfway between the two waterfalls is another pool.
[Kīpahulu Ranger Station, 808-248-7375, Kīpahulu, Maui.]
Palapala Ho‘omau Congregational Church / The Grave of Charles Lindbergh
Built in 1857, Palapala Ho‘omau Congregational Church is the burial site of famous American aviator Charles Lindbergh (1902-1974), a former resident of Kīpahulu with his wife, writer Ann Morrow Lindbergh. Charles Lindbergh’s granite headstone is taken from the Bible’s Psalm 139, and reads, “If I take the wings of morning and dwell in the uttermost parts of the sea...”
[Palapala Ho‘omau Congregational Church, Pi‘ilane Highway (Hwy. 31), 1 mile (1.6 km) south of ‘Ohe‘o Gulch, Kīpahulu.]
[Photograph: Maui scene]
[Garden of Eden Arboretum and Botanical Garden, 808-280-1912, Mile Marker 10.]
South of Lahaina
Olowalu
Located south of Lahaina, Olowalu was the site of the infamous 1790 Olowalu Massacre by Simon Metcalfe, who was in command of the snow Eleanora in the Hawaiian Islands when one of his skiffs was stolen by the chief Ka‘ōpūiki. To exact revenge, Metcalfe lured native Hawaiians in canoes to his ship to trade, and then opened cannon fire on them, killing more than 100 Hawaiians. Off the coast of Hawai‘i Island, Metcalfe then punished Chief Kame‘eiamoku by whipping him.
Some weeks later, Kame‘eiamoku attacked the Fair American, which was under the command of Metcalfe’s 18-year-old son, Thomas. Thomas and all of the Fair American’s crew were killed, except for Isaac Davis (later known as‘Aikake ) (1758-1810), who was tied to a canoe and left half blind and nearly dead. It is said that Davis’ life was spared because of his brave fighting.
Simon Metcalfe sailed away, leaving his boatswain John Young (later known as ‘Olohana) (c.1749-1835) onshore. The Fair American was taken over by Kamehameha. Davis and Young became Kamehameha’s supporters and advisers, manning large guns from canoes during the invasion of the northern coast of Hawai‘i Island as well as during later attacks on O‘ahu and Maui. (See ‘Īao Valley below). (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1790.)
Young (also known as ‘Olohana) eventually became governor of several Hawaiian Islands and had estates on all the Hawaiian Islands. Davis (known as ‘Aikake) eventually became a chief and married a relative of King Kamehameha I.
Davis later became Governor of O‘ahu, and owned estates on O‘ahu, Maui, Moloka‘i, and Hawai‘i Island. Young’s granddaughter was Queen Emma (1836-1885), wife of King Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho ‘Iolani). Young’s grandson, Isaac Young Davis, became the second husband of Princess Ruth Ke‘elikōlani (1826-1883).
Olowalu to Mā‘alaea
The span of coastal road heading south from Olowalu along Honoapi‘ilani Highway (Hwy. 30) toward Mā‘alaea is a prime area to see koholā (Megaptera novaeangliae, humpback whales) during the winter months. (See Humpback Whalessection.)
A scenic lookout at Papawai Point on the west end of Mā‘alaea Bay is a great place to look for the huge cetaceans. Visible offshore are the islands of Kaho‘olawe and Lāna‘i, as well as Molokini Islet, a pristine snorkeling site now designated as a Marine Conservation District. Molokini is a crescent-moon-shaped volcanic crater with great coral reefs teeming with colorful fish. Molokini is located about 3 miles (4.8 km) offshore from Mākena, and rises about 165 feet (50 m) above sea level, encompassing about 18 acres (7 ha)).
Mā‘alaea Bay and Harbor
Mā‘alaea Harbor is a busy place, offering whale watch excursions as well as opportunities for scuba diving and evening sails. The small boat harbor also has 89 slips for boats.
On the left of Mā‘alaea Harbor is a popular surfing spot called “freight train.” Inland from the harbor, the hills begin their rise up to the peak of Haleakalā, while across the channel to the west are the islands of Kaho‘olawe and Lāna‘i.
[Mā‘alaea Harbor, off Honoapi‘ilani Highway. (Hwy. 30).]
Maui Ocean Center
The Maui Ocean Center is located in Mā‘alaea overlooking Mā‘alaea Harbor, and is devoted to marine life of the Hawaiian Islands and the Pacific Ocean. The Center features a custom-designed 750,000 gallon (2.8 million l) saltwater aquarium holding nearly 2,000 fish. A 50-foot (15-m) long acrylic tunnel through the aquarium allows the viewer to be surrounded ocean life.
The Turtle Lagoon features honu (Hawaiian green sea turtles), and the Discovery Pool allows children to hold sea stars, sea urchins and sea cucumbers. An outdoor pool features stingrays and eaglerays. A restaurant and a store at the Center sell food and gifts.
[Maui Ocean Center, 808-270-7000, 192 Mā‘alaea Road, Mā‘alaea; 9-6, M-F (June-Aug).; 9-5, M-F (Sep.-May), www.mauioceancenter.com. Directions: From West Maui take Hwy.30 past Mā‘alaea Boat Harbor. Turn right on Mā‘alaea Road. Maui Ocean Center is on the left.]
Kīhei
Kama‘ole Beach Parks
Kīhei is the site of many relatively new homes, condominiums, hotels, and stores built during the last two decades. The local beach parks, called Kama‘ole Beach Parks I, II, and III provide restrooms and showers as well as nice lawns with tables for picnics.
Keālia Pond National Wildlife Reserve
Also in Kīhei is the 700-acre (283-ha) Keālia Pond National Wildlife Reserve, home to many native birds. A boardwalk through the ponded areas provides opportunities for bird watching.
[Keālia Pond National Wildlife Reserve, 808-875-1582, Junction of Pi‘ilani Highway (Hawai‘i 31) & Mokulele Highway, Hawai‘i 350.]
Kalama Beach Park
Kalama Beach Park provides grassy areas for relaxation.
Ulua Beach
Wailea
Wailea Beach
Mākena Beach State Park
Located just south of Wailea are the two beaches of Mākena. The main stretch of sand at Mākena is an exceptionally large, white-sand sand beach known as “Big Beach,” (Mākena means “Abundance”). The beach is about 3,000 feet (914 m) long with no homes or hotels to disrupt the serenity.
Pu‘u Ōla‘i, a cinder cone, rises up on the right end of the Mākena. A walk over the rocks of the cinder cone leads to the area known as “Little Beach.”
[Mākena Beach State Park, off Wailea Alanui Drive, Mākena.]
La Pérouse Bay (Kalepolepo)
From Mākena Beach, the highway leads over lava flows that formed during Haleakalā Volcano’s most recent eruption in 1790 when the volcano released an estimated 22 square miles (57 sq. km) of lava totaling nearly 1 billion cubic feet (28,300,000 cu. m) of lava.
The 1790 lava flows reached the sea where they cooled and hardened, forming the Cape Kīna‘u Peninsula. These massive lava flows changed the shape of the southwest Maui coastline, and created the area now known as La Pérouse Bay. (See Hāleakalā Volcano section above.)
La Pérouse Bay is now part of the ‘Āhihi-Kīna‘u Marine Preserve and is located at the end of Mākena Alanui Road in south Maui. Rocky reef and coral provide great snorkeling opportunities when the trade winds aren’t too strong.
La Pérouse Bay was named in honor of the 1786 visit by French admiral Jean François de Galaup, Comte de La Pérouse, who had been chosen by Louis XVI to command two, 500-ton (452-mton) armed frigates, the Boussole and theAstrolabe.
On March 6, 1786, Count de la Pérouse surveyed a Northwestern Hawaiian Islands atoll reef that later came to be known as French Frigate Shoals. Pérouse’s two frigates almost wrecked on the reef, and the French Frigate Shoals gained their name in honor of this near mishap. This was the first documented Western discovery of French Frigate Shoals.
On May 29, 1786, Pérouse’s two French naval frigates arrived at Maui. Sailing along Maui’s southwest coast, Pérouse was met by about 150 canoes. Pérouse first made a landing on Maui on May 30, 1786 at the spot now known as La Pérouse Bay (Hawaiian name: Kalepolepo). The next day Pérouse went ashore with an armed party and exchanged gifts.
Pérouse’s ships also visited the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands and named Necker Island after a French statesman. After other adventures, the two ships (carrying goods to trade) left Australia in 1788 and then mysteriously vanished. Some 40 years later it was revealed that the ships were caught in a storm off the island of Vanicoro, part of the Santa Cruz group.
[La Pérouse Bay, about 7 miles (11 km) south of Wailea.]
Hawai‘i Island (The Big Island)
The Orchid Isle
Overview of Hawai‘i Island
Land Area: 4,028 square miles (10,432.5 sq. km).
Size Comparison: Hawai‘i Island is the largest Hawaiian Island.
Island Emblem: Pua Lehua—Red Blossom of ‘Ōhi‘a Lehua (Metrosideros species).
Highest Elevation: 13,796 feet (4,205 m), at the summit of Mauna Kea.
Official Nickname: The Orchid Isle.
Also called: The Big Island.
Visitor Information:
Big Island Visitors Bureau, 808-886-1655 -
located at King’s Shops at Waikōloa Resort, 250 Waikōloa Beach Drive (north of Kailua-Kona).]
Hawai‘i Island Chamber of Commerce, 808-935-7178.
Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park, 985-6000, www.nps.gov/havo.
County Parks, 808-961-8311, Department of Parks & Recreation, 25 Aupuni Street, Hilo, open 7:45-4:30, M-F, www.co.hawaii.hi.us.
State Parks, 974-6200, Department of Land & Natural Resources, www.state.hi.us.
[Illustration: Map—Hawai‘i Island]
Hawai‘i Island is the youngest Hawaiian Island, at less than one-half million years old, and also the largest Hawaiian Island. The island of Hawai‘i is more than twice as big as the rest of the Hawaiian Islands combined, and more than four times as big as Maui (the second largest Hawaiian Island).
The island of Hawai‘i is about 93 miles (150 km) long by 76 miles (122 km) wide, and still growing due to the active lava eruptions coming from Kīlauea Volcano. An ancient Hawaiian proverb states, “Ku ka‘apā ia Hawai‘i, he moku nui,” (“[It is well for] Hawai‘i to show activity; it is the largest of the islands”), meaning, “Hawai‘i should lead forth for she is the largest.”[cmxlix]
With snow covered peaks, lava deserts, and lush rainforests, the island of Hawai‘i supports a great diversity of native ecosystems. Near the coast lava crackles and hisses as it flows into the sea, while snow tops the 13,796-foot (4,205-m) summit of Mauna Kea volcano, the highest spot not only in the Hawaiian Islands but in all of the Pacific Basin.
The island of Hawai‘i was formed by six separate volcanoes, including five volcanoes above sea level: Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa, Kohala, Hualālai and Kīlauea Volcanoes. The sixth volcano, Mahukona, is submerged off the island’s northwest shore.
Kīlauea Volcano is currently the most continuously active volcano on Earth, having covered more than 500 square miles (1,300 sq. km) with lava in the last 1,100 years. Kīlauea has erupted almost non-stop since 1983, adding more than 38 square miles (98 sq. km) of lava to the island of Hawai‘i.
This action continues as the flank of Kīlauea Volcano erupts lava near Hawai‘i Island’s southeast coast, where molten earth flows into the sea adding to the island’s size and also creating new material for black sand beaches.
The island of Hawai‘i’s agriculture products include macadamia nuts, Kona coffee, and papayas as well as diversified products (e.g., mushrooms) that supply the island’s fine restaurants. A large quantity of tropical flowers are also produced on Hawai‘i Island, including anthuriums and orchids. Another major export is beef.
Hawai‘i Island’s two main airports are Kona International Airport and Hilo International Airport. The smaller Waimea Kohala Airport is used by private charters and commuter flights.
Hilo is the county seat, with a population of about 144,000. Driving around the circumference of the island of Hawai‘i can be accomplished in about 222 miles (357 km), and has about 266 miles (428 km) of coastline.
Annual Events on the Island of Hawai‘i
Ø January Senior PGA Mastercard Championship
Ø March Hilo Orchid Society Annual Show and Sale
Ø March Big Island Marathon
Ø April Merrie Monarch Festival
Ø July July 4th Parker Ranch Rodeo
Ø June King Kamehameha I Day Celebration
Ø August Hawaiian International Billfish Tournament
Ø October Ironman Triathlon
Ø November Kona Coffee Cultural Festival
Hawai‘i Island
Cultural / Historical Sites and Attractions
Kailua-Kona
Kailua Pier
Ahu‘ena Heiau / Kamakahonu
Moku‘aikaua Church
Hulihe‘e Palace
St. Michael’s Church
South of Kailua-Kona
Keauhou
Kahalu‘u Beach
St. Peter’s Catholic Church
Ku‘uemanu Heiau
Kapuanoni / King Kalākaua’s Summer Beach House
Ke‘ekū Heiau
Keauhou Bay—Birthplace of King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli)
Kealakekua
Kona Historical Society Museum
Kona Union Church
Kealakekua Bay
Captain Cook Monument
Hikiau Heiau State Monument
St. Benedict’s Catholic Church
Amy B. H. Greenwell Ethnobotanical Gardens
Kona Field System
Pu‘uhonua o Hōnaunau National Historic Park
Hale-o-keawe
‘Ale‘ale‘a
Miloli‘i
Manukā State Park and Natural Reserve Area
Ka Lae (South Point)
North of Kailua-Kona
Honokōhau Harbor
Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historical Park
‘Ai‘ōpio Beach
Honokōhau Beach
‘Alula Beach
Māmalahoa Trail (King’s Trail)
Aimakapā
Kaloko
Fort Alexander
Kahinihiniula (Queen’s Bath)
Kailua-Kona to Kawaihae
Kohala Coast
Ka‘ūpūlehu
‘Anaeho‘omalu Bay
Kalāhuipua‘a Fishponds
Malama Trail
Puakō
Hokuloa Church
Hāpuna Beach
Hāpuna Beach State Park
Pu‘ukoholā Heiau
Mailekini Heiau
Hale o Kapuni Heiau
Pelekane
Waimea (Kamuela)
‘Imiola Church
W. M. Keck Observatory Office
Waimea Visitor Center
Kamuela Museum
Parker Ranch Historic Homes, Museum, and Visitor Center
Mānā Hale
Pu‘uōpelu
Pu‘u-o-Mahuka Heiau
Lapakahi State Historical Park
Mo‘okini Heiau
Pōhaku-holehole-kānaka
Kapa‘au and Hāwī
Statue of King Kamehameha I
Kalāhikiola Church
Pololū Valley Lookout / Pololū Beach
Waipi‘o Valley
Hi‘ilawe Falls
Waipi‘o Valley Overlook
Kukuihale
Mauna Kea Volcano
Northeast Coast
Waipi‘o to Hilo along the Hāmākua Coast
Honoka‘a
Kalopā State Recreation Area
Laupāhoehoe Point / Onomea Drive
Laupāhoehoe Train Museum and Visitor Center
Honomū
‘Akaka Falls State Park
‘Akaka Falls
Kahūnā Falls
Hawai‘i Tropical Botanical Garden
Pepe‘ekeo Scenic Route
Hilo
Banyan Drive
Lili‘uokalani Gardens
Kalākaua Park
Lyman House Memorial Museum and Mission House
Naha Stone and Pinao Stone
Pacific Tsunami Museum
Rainbow Falls State Park
Pe‘epe Falls / Boiling Pots
Nani Mau Gardens
Mauna Loa Volcano
Historic Eruptions
Recent Activity
Predicting Future Eruptions
Mauna Loa Visitor Center
Puna
Pāhoa
Lava Tree State Park
Waha‘ula Heiau
Punalu‘u
Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park—Kīlauea Volcano
Summit Calderas
Chain of Craters Road
Pu‘u Lo‘a Petroglyph Area
Crater Rim Drive
Kīlauea Iki Crater
Kīpuka and Lava Trees
Lava Tubes and Skylights
Park Accommodations and Trails
Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō Crater
Hawai‘i Island
Cultural / Historical Sites and Attractions
Kailua-Kona
Kailua-Kona is located at the base of the 8,271-foot (2,521-meter) high Hualālai Volcano on the island of Hawai‘i’s Kona Coast. King Kamehameha ran his kingdom from Kailua from 1812 until his death in 1819. Today the Kona Coast provides great fishing, diving, and snorkeling opportunities. Boat charters depart from Kailua Pier as well as Honokōhau Harbor.
Kailua-Kona hosts the Ironman Triathlon every October. The popular and extremely competitive event involves swimming 2.4 miles (3.9 km) in the ocean, biking for 112 miles (180 km), and then running 26 miles (42 km). Each year about 1,500 contestants begin the event at Kailua Pier.
A seawall between Kailua Pier and Hulihe‘e Palace (see below) is a favorite local pole-and-line fishing spot. Kailua-Kona’s main street is Ali‘i Drive, which runs for 2 miles (3.2 km) along the coast.
Sport-fishing in the Kailua-Kona region is world renown, including ‘ahi (yellowfin tuna) as well as a‘u, the Hawaiian word for fish in the family Istiophoridae, which includes spearfish, swordfish, and marlin. The most prized catch of all is the Pacific blue marlin, which may top 1,000 pounds (454 kg). A marlin weighing 1,805 pounds (819 kg) was caught off O‘ahu in 1970. Anglers congregate at the annual Hawaiian International Billfish Tournament every August.
North Kona is known for its macadamia nuts while South Kona is a major coffee production area.
Ahu‘ena Heiau / Kamakahonu
Ahu‘ena Heiau on the north end of Kailua Bay, across from Kailua Pier, is an ancient luakini heiau, a sacred place of worship where human sacrifices were offered. The heiau was restored by King Kamehameha I, and was located near his royal residence, called Kamakahonu (“The turtle eye”[cml]), where he lived from 1812 until his death in 1819.
Ahu‘ena Heiau was also the site of the breaking of the kapu by King Kamehameha I’s son, Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho, who took the throne on May 20, 1819. Within months of assuming the throne, and with the urging and support of his mother, Keōpūolanikauhiakama [Keōpūolani], and kuhina nui (premier) Ka‘ahumanu, King Kamehameha II(Kalaninui ‘Iolani Liholiho) ate in public with the dowager queens, breaking the kapu (prohibition) against men and women eating together.
When the defiant act brought no retribution from the gods, eating together was no longer kapu, and this began a process that eroded away at traditional Hawaiian religious beliefs and eventually led to the complete overturning of the traditional kapu system.
Chief Kekuaokalani, the son of King Kamehameha I’s younger brother, rebelled against Liholiho’s abolishment of the eating kapu in favor of preserving traditional ways. Because of this he was killed in an 1819 battle at Kuamo‘o against the forces of Kalanimoku, which were supported by canoe-mounted American swivel guns (see Timeline: 1820, May 8). Terraced graves on the lava plain are a reminder of the estimated 300 warriors that died on the battlefield.
Ahu‘ena Heiau is now part of the grounds of the King Kamehameha Kona Beach Hotel. A thatched structure on the site represents how the heiau may once have appeared, including ki‘i, carved statues of sacred images. On display in the lobby of the hotel are large marlin from the Hawaiian International Billfish Tournament, including a 1,062 pound (482 kg) fish caught in 1986, and a 1,166 pound (529 kg) marlin caught in 1993. The fish were weighed in at nearby Kailua Pier.
Also on display at the hotel are many genuine Hawaiian artifacts and Hawaiian cultural exhibits, including musical instruments, and beautiful portraits of Hawaiian royalty, including a painting of King Kamehameha I by Herb Kane. Free historical tours (at 1:30 on weekdays) provide information about the lobby exhibits as well as the sacred sites located just outside the hotel.
[Ahu‘ena Heiau, 808-329-2911; located behind King Kamehameha Kona Beach Hotel, 75-5660 Palani Road.]
Moku‘aikaua Church
Moku‘aikaua Church, with a steeple that rises to 112 feet (34 m), is located along the Kailua-Kona waterfront. Moku‘aikaua Church was originally a thatched structure, built in 1820, making it the first Christian church built in the Hawaiian Islands. Then in 1823 under the direction of Kuakini (also known as John Adams, the brother of Queen Ka‘ahumanu), four thousand people assisted in the construction of a lava rock church. The walls were held together by sand and coral lime mortar.
On December 10, 1823, Moku‘aikaua Church was dedicated, with Queen Ka‘ahumanu in attendance. Unfortunately, an 1835 fire destroyed the church. Rebuilding began in 1836 using coral mortar and stones from an abandoned heiau. A steeple was also constructed. The rebuilding was completed in January of 1837, including an interior of native koa (Acacia koa).
At the back of Moku‘aikaua Church is a model of the brig Thaddeus, the ship that brought the First Company of American missionaries to the Hawaiian Islands in 1820. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1820, March 21.)
[Moku‘aikaua Church, 808-329-5179, 75-5713 Ali‘i Drive, Kailua-Kona, [0655, 2002, call
Hulihe‘e Palace
Just across Ali‘i Drive from Moku‘aikaua Church is Hulihe‘e Palace, which was built in 1838 and is now restored as a museum. The palace was built by Kuakini (John Adams), Governor of Hawai‘i (island) and brother of the late Queen Ka‘ahumanu. Hulihe‘e means “Turn flee.”[cmli]
Hulihe‘e Palace was built of lava rock and coral mortar using the same construction as Moku‘aikaua Church, which was built by Kuakini one year earlier (see above). The construction Hulihe‘e Palace included the native woods of koa(Acacia koa) and ‘ōhi‘a lehua (Metrosideros species).
Hulihe‘e Palace later served as a home for Princess Ruth Ke‘elikōlani (the great granddaughter of King Kamehameha I), and then became the summer palace of King Kalākaua, who renamed it Hikulani Hale (“Seventh ruler house”). This name referred to himself, the seventh leader of the monarchy that began with King Kamehameha I. Hulihe‘e Palace was later owned by Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana‘ole Pi‘ikoi, the nephew and adopted son of Queen Kapi‘olani. Prince Kūhiō had been named as heir presumptive to the throne by Queen Lili‘uokalani after she ascended to the throne in 1891.
In 1885, King Kalākaua had Hulihe‘e Palace plastered over to give the building a more refined appearance. In 1927, The Daughters of Hawai‘i, dedicated to preserving the cultural legacy of the Hawaiian Islands, restored Hulihe‘e Palace and turned it into a museum. Hula is performed at Hulihe‘e Palace on the last Sunday of each month at 4 p.m.
On display at Hulihe‘e Palace are many items of fine furniture as well as numerous Hawaiian artifacts, including the war spears of King Kamehameha I. The museum’s Palace Gift Shop sells books and gift items.
[Hulihe‘e Palace, 808-329-1877, 75-5718 Ali‘i Drive, Kailua-Kona; open 9-4 M-F, 10-4 weekends.]
St. Michael’s Church
A thatched chapel on Ali‘i Drive represents Kona’s first Catholic Church, originally built in 1840. The thatched structure is next to the newer church, which was built in 1850. A coral grotto shrine on display in front of the church includes 2,500 coral heads.
[St. Michael’s Catholic Church, 808-326-7771, 75-5769 Ali‘i Drive.]
South of Kailua-Kona
South of Kailua-Kona is Keauhou and numerous small towns—Honalo,[cmlii] Kainaliu, Kealakekua, Captain Cook, and Hōnaunau. Off the main road is Pu‘uhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park, as well as Ho‘okena (“To satisfy thirst”[cmliii]) and Miloli‘i, which means “Fine twist (as sennit cord),” possibly referring to “...an expert sennit twister who lived there.”[cmliv]
Beyond Pu‘uhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park on the Māmalahoa Highway are Wai‘ōhinu (“Shiny water”[cmlv]), Nā‘ālehu (“The volcanic ashes”[cmlvi]) and Punalu‘u (“Coral dived for”[cmlvii]). The southernmost point on Hawai‘i Island and in all of the Hawaiian Islands is Ka Lae, also known as South Point.
Keauhou
Keauhou is located along the coast south of Kailua-Kona, beginning at Kahalu‘u Beach, which is protected by an ancient stone wall known as the Menehune Breakwater, which is said to have been built by the legendary ancient race of people known as menehune (See Menehune section, Chapter 3). Though the wall is battered by waves and time, it continues to create an ideal snorkeling area teeming with reef fish and other marine life.
Kahalu‘u Beach provides excellent snorkeling opportunities and a black sand beach. St. Peter’s Catholic Churchis located on the north side of Kahalu‘u Bay. The small, blue-tin-roofed church is affectionately known as the “Little Blue Church,” and is the site of many weddings. It is also one of the most photographed churches in the Islands.
Built in 1839, the blue-tin-roofed church was moved from White Sands Beach in 1912.
Though Keauhou is now the site of hotels, condos, and a golf course, it was once a major Hawaiian settlement. Some historical and cultural sites still stand amidst the more modern structures.
Located on the north side of St. Peter’s Catholic Church, Ku‘emanu Heiau was used by Hawaiian royalty as a place to pay respects to their gods before surfing the waves of Kahalu‘u Bay.
Kapuanoni / King Kalākaua’s Summer Beach House
Located just south of Kahalu‘u Beach is the Keauhou Beach Resort, where several historical sites may be seen. On the north side of the hotel are the ruins of Kapuanoni, a fishing heiau (sacred place of worship). Just inland is King Kalākaua’s summer beach house (now reconstructed), located next to a spring-fed pond once used by Hawaiian royalty.
Ke‘ekū Heiau.
Ke‘ekū Heiau is located on the south side of Keauhou Beach Resort. Also to the south of the hotel is a tidepool area where one may see a variety of marine life including sea urchins and reef fish (low tide is best). Also exposed at low tide are lava rocks etched with petroglpyphs. These petroglyphs are located just off the north end of the closed Kona Lagoon Hotel, and may be seen when the water recedes (low tide).
[Keauhou Beach Resort, 800-922-7866, 78-6740 Ali‘i Drive, Kailua-Kona.]
Keauhou Bay—Birthplace of King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli)
Keauhou Bay provides safe harbor for a couple of dozen small boats and is a popular launching point for outrigger canoe paddlers. A stone at the site marks the location as the birthplace of King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli).
[Keauhou Bay, Directions: From Ali‘i Drive, turn right on Kamehameha III Road.]
Kealakekua
The Kona Historical Society Museum is located in Kealakekua in the old Greenwell Store, a stone building constructed in 1875 by Henry N. Greenwell. The Museum exhibits ancient Hawaiian artifacts as well as memorabilia relating to the island’s history of cattle ranching and coffee plantations. The homestead was first established in 1850, eventually including a cattle ranch, store, post office, and sheep station.
The Kona Historical Society offers walking tours of local areas. Also in Kealakekua is the Kona Union Church, constructed of lava rock in 1854.
Kealakekua means “Pathway [of] the God,”[cmlviii] referring to a string of heiau (sacred places of worship), perhaps 40 or more, that once stretched from Kailua Kona to Kealakekua.
[Kona Historical Society Museum, 808-323-3222, 81-6551 Māmalahoa Highway (Hwy. 11), 1 mile (1.6 km) south of Kealakekua town, www.konahistorical.org; open 9-3 Mon.-Fri.]
Kealakekua Bay
Kealakekua Bay, now a marine life preserve, is where Captain Cook was killed in 1779. Cook’s death occurred on the north end of Kealakekua Bay, and is now marked by the Captain Cook Monument, a white obelisk monument that stands 27 feet (8.2 m) tall. The memorial is reached by Nāpō‘opo‘o Rd., about 4 miles (6.4 km) south of the town of Captain Cook.
On February 4, 1779, Cook left Kealakekua Bay to survey the other Hawaiian Islands before heading off again on his explorations. As Cook and his crew departed, the foremast of the HMS Resolution broke, and Cook returned to Kealakekua Bay. Various differing accounts have been given detailing how Captain Cook died, but the story is generally told as follows:
One of Cook’s smaller boats (a cutter) was stolen during the night of February 13. In the morning Cook’s men blockaded the harbor so no one could escape. Cook went ashore with nine of his men to retrieve the boat. Their plan was to bring Kalani‘ōpu‘u (the ruler of the island of Hawai‘i) back to the ship, and then hold him captive until the stolen boat was returned.
Cook and his men awakened the chief and compelled him to come to the ship, and then they proceeded toward shore. Meanwhile, a canoe attempted to pass the harbor blockade, and members of Cook’s crew fired on the natives, killing a chief. A large crowd gathered nearshore when the natives learned that one of their chiefs had been killed. Just then Cook and his men, with Kalani‘ōpu‘u, reached shore to go out to the ship.
In an encounter with the angry natives, Cook and his men fired upon the group. As they reloaded they were attacked. Cook yelled for his men to “Take to the boats!,” but it was too late. Cook was stabbed in the neck and killed, and floated face down in the water. At least four of Cook’s men were also killed.
Accounts of this event as well as the events of the following days vary. See Captain Cook section in Chapter 3 for more information.
[Kealakekua Bay, end of Nāpō‘opo‘o Road.]
Hikiau Heiau State Monument
When Nāpō‘opo‘o Road reaches the ocean, Nāpō‘opo Beach Park is to the right. This is also the location of Hikiau Heiau, now designated as a State Monument. Hikiau Heiau was a luakini (temple where human sacrifices were performed), and was also the place where Captain Cook was brought when he first arrived at Kealakekua in 1779. Kāhuna (native priests) put sacred red kapa (tapa) barkcloth on Cook and offered sacred chants.
Many uncertainties remain about how the native people regarded Captain Cook (e.g., as the god Lono) and why particular honors were bestowed upon him. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1779, Jan. 17.) Hikiau means “Moving current,”[cmlix] referring to the tumultuous ocean at the nearby surfing site.
[Hikiau Heiau, end of Nāpō‘opo‘o Road, Kealakekua Bay.]
St. Benedict’s Catholic Church
St. Benedict’s Catholic Church was once located on the shore of Kealakekua Bay near Pu‘uhonua o Hōnaunau, the sacred place of refuge (see below). Around 1900 the church was moved 2 miles (3.2 km) to its present location.
Known as “the painted church,” St. Benedict’s includes a Gothic Revival steeple built by the Belgian-born Father John Berchmans Velghe, who came to the Hawaiian Islands in 1899. Velghe’s paintings on the church walls were intended to help the native Hawaiians learn the Bible. The wall directly behind the alter is modeled after the Gothic cathedral in Burgos, Spain. Hawaiian hymns are still sung at the Sunday services.
[St. Benedict’s Catholic Church, 808-328-2227, 84-5140 Painted Church Road, Hōnaunau. Directions: From Highway 160; go ¼ mile (.4 km) north at Mile Marker 1.]
Amy B. H. Greenwell Ethnobotanical Gardens
This 15-acre (6-ha) ethnobotanical garden near Captain Cook on the island of Hawai‘i includes examples of coastal habitat as well as lowland dry forest and upland forest habitats as Hawaiians used them in ancient times. The Garden includes an archaeological remnant of an ancient Kona Field System, covering about 5 acres (2 ha).
The Garden’s collection of about 250 different native and Polynesian-introduced plants includes many food and fiber crops such as kalo (Colocasia esculenta, taro), mai‘a (Musa species, banana), ‘ulu (Artocarpus altilis, breadfruit), ‘uala(Ipomoea batatas, sweet potatoes), uhi (Dioscorea alata, yam), kō (Saccharum officinarum, sugarcane), ‘awa (Piper methysticum, kava), ‘ōhi‘a ‘ai (Eugenia malaccense, mountain apple) and wauke (Broussonetia papyrifera, paper mulberry). (See Native andPolynesian-Introduced Plants sections, Chapters 8 and 9, for more information about the plants mentioned above.)
[Amy B. H. Greenwell Ethnobotanical Gardens, 808-323-3318, 82-6188 Māmalahoa Highway (Hwy. 19), Captain Cook, www.bishopmuseum.org/greenwell, open M-F, 8:30-5.]
[Photograph: Amy B. H. Greenwell Ethnobotanical Garden]
Pu‘uhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park
Located along the South Kona coastline on Hōnaunau Bay is Pu‘uhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park. The Historical Park encompasses 180 acres (73 ha), including the royal grounds, a heiau (sacred place of worship), and a pu‘uhonua (place of refuge) located on the westernmost point of the site. The ancient heiau and pu‘uhonua have been reconstructed, along with ki‘i, carved images of ancient gods.
Within the Historical Park is a 10-foot (3-m) high, 1,000-foot (305-m) long, 17-foot (5.2-m) thick stone wall thought to be built without mortar around A.D. 1550, and is now known as the “Great Wall.” The wall was apparently constructed long after the heiau was constructed (possibly around A.D. 1200 or earlier).
The royal grounds are located on the east side of the wall, while the pu‘uhonua (place of refuge) is located on the west side of the wall. A self-guided walk is detailed in the park brochure, and includes other nearby heiau as well as a petroglyph site, loko ‘ia (fishpond), and lava tree molds.
Located on the coastal point is the reconstructed heaiu (sacred place of worship) called Hale-o-Keawe (“House of Keawe”[cmlx]). Constructed by Chief Keawe around 1650, the sacred site was formerly the repository of the bones of 23 chiefs. These bones were said to have held mana (spiritual power), which was imparted to those that came near and also brought stronger protection to the pu‘uhonua, where those who broke the kapu could go to avoid being put to death.
Once located near the center of the site was a heiau known as ‘Āle‘ale‘a (“Light [of] joy”[cmlxi]). After Hale-o-Keawe was constructed, ‘Āle‘ale‘a was used for games and sporting events.
[Pu‘uhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park, 808-328-2288; 20 miles (32 km) south of Kailua-Kona, www.nps.gov, Mon.-Thurs., 6 a.m.-8 p.m., Fri.-Sun., 6 a.m.-11 p.m.; Visitor Center open 8-4:30 daily.]
Miloli‘i
The remote Hawaiian fishing area known as Miloli‘i is located 5 miles (8 km) off of Highway 11 (Hawai‘i Belt Road) south of Hōnaunau.
Manukā State Park and Natural Reserve Area
Manukā Natural Reserve Area is an 8-acre (3.2-ha) arboretum, has a picnic area as well as a 2-mile (3.2 km) interpretive nature trail through native forest and past a pit crater. This land of lava is the site of buried villages.
[Manukā State Park and Natural Reserve Area, 808-974-6200, Highway 11, north of Mile Marker 81; open daily 7-7.]
Ka Lae (South Point)
Ka Lae, also known as South Point, is the southernmost location on the island of Hawai‘i and also the southernmost point in the United States. Ka Lae means “The Point.”[cmlxii]
Some old structures on the coast at South Point were used around the turn of the century to lower cattle and produce onto ships. Also seen on the cliffs are canoe-mooring holes thought to be carved more than 1,000 years ago.
[Ka Lae (South Point), Directions: take Māmalahoa Highway (Hwy. 11) to just past Mile Marker 70, turn south on South Point Road, drive 12 miles (19 km).]
Mahana Beach (Green Sand Beach)
Mahana Beach is reached by a 2¼ mile (3.6 km) hike that begins near South Point at the Kaulana Boat Launch. The beach’s green sand comes from a vein of the semi-precious gem mineral olivine in a nearby littoral cone that the waves slowly pulverize into sand.
Mahana’s green sand is mixed with black sand. The occasional olivine nugget is also found, particularly at the next cove over, which is accessed from the northeast end of Mahana.
North of Kailua-Kona
Honokōhau Harbor
At Honokōhau Harbor, built in 1970, you will see fishermen weighing in their catches of ‘ahi (yellowfin tuna) and a‘u (marlin). From 11:30-3:30 is generally the best time to see the big fish come in. The harbor complex includes a restaurant, bar, and fish market. Honokōhau means “Bay drawing dew.”[cmlxiii]
[Honokōhau Harbor, 2 miles (3.2 m) northwest of Kailua-Kona on Queen Ka‘ahumanu Highway (Hwy. 19).]
Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historical Park
Located near Honokōhau Harbor, the Historic Park encompasses the oceanfront land between Honokōhau Harbor and Kaloko. Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historical Park was designated a National Park in 1978, and spans over an area of 1,160 acres (469 ha), including several important cultural sites.
Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historic Park also includes three beaches. Just north of Honokōhau Harbor is‘Ai‘ōpio Beach, with a protected area that is great for kids. ‘Ai‘ōpio means “Youth eating.”[cmlxiv]
Honokōhau Beach, north of Honokōhau Harbor, is about ¾-mile (1.2 km) long with large grain sand (a mix of shells, lava, and white coral), and includes the remains of ancient loko ‘ia (fishponds). The beach is reached by taking Queen Ka‘ahumanu Highway (Hwy. 19) to the Honokōhau Harbor road, turning right and going ¼ mile (.4 km) to the trail that begins at the gap in the lava wall. ‘Alula Beach is located beyond the lava to the left of the entrance to Honokōhau Harbor (at the south end of the harbor).
Within Kaloko-Honokōhau is an ancient heiau (sacred place of worship), and an ancient stone footpath known asMāmalahoa Trail, or King’s Trail. About 1 mile (1.6 km) of the trail has been restored. Also located within the park are ancient burial caves. Some say King Kamehameha I was secretly buried here.
Fishponds at Kaloko-Honokōhau include Aimakapā (to the south) and Kaloko (to the north). Also located at Kaloko-Honokōhau are petroglyph sites as well as an ancient site once used for he‘e hōlua (hōlua sledding), where papa hōlua (wooden sleds) were used to slide down a hillside or a ramp slide constructed of stone and lined with pili grass (Heteropogon contortus, twisted beardgrass) or tassels of kō (Saccharum officinarum, sugarcane).
Located in the middle of a lava flow (just inland from a spot about 200 yards (183 m) from the north end of Honokōhau Beach) is Kahinihiniula (Queen’s Bath), a brackish water lava pool that is about 20 by 15 feet (6 by 49 m). The pond is spring fed and seemingly disconnected from the ocean, yet its water level is affected by the ocean tide, and the water in the pool is brackish. Twelve large rock piles surround the pool.
[Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historic Park, 808-329-6881, www.nps.gov, open 8-3:30. The access road to the park is located north of Kailua-Kona, and south of the airport, off Ka‘ahumanu Highway (Hwy. 19) between Mile Markers 96 and 97, or from Honokōhau Harbor.]
Kailua-Kona to Kawaihae
This 33-mile (53-km) route north of Kailua-Kona, along the Queen Ka‘ahumanu Highway (Hwy. 19) is known as the Kohala Coast. This stretch of road goes through a hot and dry moonscape of lava flows of many different shapes, textures, and colors. Also along the way are several world-class resorts, including: The Four Seasons Resort Hualālai; Kona Village Resort; Royal Waikaloan; Hilton Waikōloa Village; Waikōloa Resort; Mauna Lani Resort; Hāpuna Beach Prince Hotel; and Mauna Kea Beach Resort
Amidst these resorts are numerous important historical, cultural, and archaeological sites. The Kona Village Resort, built on the site of the ancient fishing village at Ka‘ūpūlehu also has a boardwalk from which ancient petroglyphs may be viewed.
Petroglyphs can also be seen on the old King’s Trail at Waikōloa Resort on ‘Anaeho‘omalu Bay, the site of ancient heiau and houses as well as fishponds. Locally known as A-Bay, ‘Anaeho‘omalu Bay is protected by an offshore reef that makes the waters safe for swimming unless the surf is exceptionally large.
The area around the Mauna Lani Resort includes numerous archaeological sites as well the restored Kalāhuipua‘a Fishponds, just south of the hotel. The loko i‘a (fishponds) are connected to the ocean through mākāhā (sluice gates), and stocked with awa (Chanos chanos, milkfish). Kalāhuipua‘a means “The family [of] pigs.”[cmlxv]
The Malama Trail leads 1.4 miles (2.3 km) north of the Mauna Lani Resort to Puakō, the site of more than 3,000 petroglyphs. Also at Puakō is Hokuloa Church, constructed in 1859 by missionary Rev. Lorenzo Lyons.
[King’s Shops, 808-886-8811 (guided tours of King’s Trail).]
[Hokuloa Church, 808-883-8295, Puakō Beach Drive.]
Hāpuna Beach
Hāpuna is the site of a beautiful white sand beach, which is located near the Hāpuna Prince Hotel, about 30 miles (48 km) north of Kailua-Kona. Hāpuna Beach is about ½-mile (.8-m) long and about 200 feet (61 m) wide (during the summer). Part of the 61-acre (25 ha) Hāpuna Beach State Park, Hapunā Beach is one of the most popular beaches on the island of Hawai‘i.
Voted top in the nation by Condé Nast Travel Magazine, Hāpuna is a crescent beach with rocks at each end. It’s a great swimming and snorkeling beach in the summer when the water is generally calm. During the winter, however, rough surf and strong currents create dangerous ocean conditions. Restrooms are available, as well as picnic pavilions. Hāpuna is a popular body boarding beach, and body boards and snorkeling gear are available for rent.
North of the Hāpuna Beach is a small cove that is often calmer than the main beach. A-frame cabins are available for rent at Hāpuna.
[Hāpuna Beach, 808-974-6200; located off Queen Ka‘ahumanu Highway (Hawai‘i 19), near Mile Marker 69, 12 miles (19.3 km) north of Waikōloa, between Mauna Lani Resort and Mauna Ke‘a Beach.]
Pu‘ukoholā Heiau
Pu‘ukoholā Heiau overlooks the Pacific Ocean at Kawaihae about 30 miles (48 km) north of Kailua-Kona, and north of Hāpuna.
The rising warrior Kamehameha constructed Pu‘ukoholā Heiau, a luakini (sacrificial temple), as a result of a 1790 prophecy that it would allow him to unite all of the Islands under his rule (see Chapter 11, Timeline: 1775). Kamehameha had thousands of his men work to construct the 224-foot (68-m) long, 100-foot (30-m) high structure. A chain of people 20 miles (32 km) long passed stones from hand-to-hand all the way to the site. The stones were laid by hand, without mortar.
With construction of Pu‘ukoholā Heiau at Kawaihae completed in 1791, Kamehameha asked Keōuakū‘ahu‘ula (chief of the island of Hawai‘i Island’s Puna and Ka‘ū districts) to attend the dedication, saying his presence was important if there was to be peace between the rivals. Keōuakū‘ahu‘ula and 26 of his chiefs and friends, including the highest chiefs of Ka‘ū, arrived at Kawaihae Bay in two large canoes
Keōuakū‘ahu‘ula was in one of the canoes, and in the other canoe was a young chief named Pauli Ka‘ōleiokū, the son of Kamehameha (his first child) and Kānekapōlei (who was also the mother of Keōuakuahu‘ula with Kalani‘ōpu‘u). Greeting Keōuakū‘ahu‘ula and his men were Kamehameha’s war canoes arranged in a great crescent shape surrounding Kawaihae Bay to prevent Keōuakū‘ahu‘ula’s escape.
Kamehameha’s men onshore had muskets and cannons. Keōuakū‘ahu‘ula and many of his chiefs and other members of his group were killed. [Note: Historical accounts of this event (by prominent early historians) differ considerably on various points. See Appendix 2: Writings of Ancient Hawaiian History]
After the initial attack on Keōuakū‘ahu‘ula, Kamehameha reportedly prevented his men from attacking the people in the other canoe (including Kamehameha’s son). The bodies of the killed chiefs (including Keōuakū‘ahu‘ula) were then sacrificed on the altar of the luakini heiau atop the hill at Pu‘ukoholā. With his rival, Keōuakū‘ahu‘ula, dead, Kamehameha controlled the island of Hawai‘i. Today the heiau’s impressive stone foundation remains, but the site was once adorned with a thatched structure as well as ki‘i (sacred carved images).
Also found at the Pu‘ukoholā Heiau National Historic Site are the ruins of Mailekini Heiau, thought to have been constructed around 1550, and used by King Kamehameha‘s ancestors. King Kamehameha used the heiau as a fort. Hale o Kapuni Heiau, dedicated to a shark god, is now submerged offshore. A visitor center proves information about the three heiau. Pu‘ukoholā means “Whale hill.”[cmlxvi] The park encompasses 77 acres (31 ha).
Nearby is Pelekane, where the royal court was located. Across the highway is the homestead of John Young(‘Olohana), military advisor and ally of King Kamehameha. John Young later became Governor of Hawai‘i Island.
Note: Pu‘ukoholā means “Whale hill”[cmlxvii] according to Pūku‘i, but was later explained by Frazier to instead be spelled Pu‘ukohola (no macron), and meaning “built as the house of the god, a pu‘u [desire] for death and not for life. The death which was to be bound securely within this heiau was in the lagoon (kai kohola) and not in the deep sea nor on land.”[cmlxviii]
[Pu‘ukoholā National Historic Site, 808-882-7218, Akoni Pule Highway (Hwy. 270), 1 mile (1.6 km) south of Kawaihae, www.nps.gov; open 7:30-4 daily.]
Waimea (Kamuela)
In the Kohala Mountain foothills, the town of Waimea (also called Kamuela) sits at an elevation of about 2,670 feet (814 m). The Waimea-Kohala region is paniolo country, but also includes high-tech science enterprises, fancy restaurants, and many cultural sites. In recent years many homes have been built in the area’s new subdivisions located on former ranch land.
Kamuela is Hawaiian for Samuel, and is said by some to refer to Samuel Spencer, a former postmaster. The more common belief, however, is that Kamuela refers to Samuel Parker. Surrounding the town is the historic Parker Ranch, one of the nation’s largest and oldest ranches. Headquartered in Waimea, Parker Ranch is the largest ranch in the Hawaiian Islands and also larger than any other single-owned private ranch in the United States. The ranch covers nearly 10% of the island of Hawai‘i (see below).
Waimea’s ‘Imiola Church was established by Father Lyons. The church’s interior is constructed using native koa(Acacia koa), and calabashes are suspended from the ceiling. ‘Imiola Church was established in 1832 and then rebuilt in 1837. ‘Imiola means “Seek salvation.”[cmlxix]
Waimea is also home to many international astronomers who work at the observatories atop Mauna Kea (see Mauna Kea Astronomy, Chapter 4). Some exhibits and a short video may be seen at the W. M. Keck Observatory Office in the town center.
The Waimea Visitor Center is located in the historic Lindsey House, a ranch cabin built in 1909 and now restored. Operated by the Waimea Preservation Association, the visitor center provides information about historic and cultural sites of the Kohala region.
[‘Imiola Church, Church Lane, Waimea, 808-855-4987.]
[W. M. Keck Observatory Office, 8-4:30, M-F.]
[Waimea Visitor Center, 65-1291 Kawaihae Road, Waimea, www.northhawaii.net, 808-885-6707; open 9:30-4:30 Mon.-Sat.]
Kamuela Museum
[Kamuela Museum, 808-885-4724, Kawaihae-Kohala Junction, Highways 19 and 250, Kamuela, open 8-5 daily.]
Parker Ranch Historic Homes, Museum, and Visitor Center
Parker Ranch Museum includes exhibits dedicated to the life of John Palmer Parker and his descendants. John Palmer Parker first saw the Hawaiian Islands aboard a fur trading ship. After jumping ship and staying in the Hawaiian Islands for a while, Parker traveled to China during the War of 1812.
Parker returned to the Hawaiian Islands, arriving in Waimea on Hawai‘i Island in 1815 to kill wild cattle for King Kamehameha I. The animals had proliferated in Waimea due to a kapu (prohibition) placed upon them with the intention of letting the animals multiply after they were brought to the island by George Vancouver in 1792 (see Chapter 11, Timeline: 1792, March 5).
Parker was contracted to shoot cattle for their meat, which was salted and sold to visiting ships. The hides were also exported. John Palmer Parker later claimed to have shot well more than 1,000 cattle.
Parker was later a supervisor of loko i‘a (fishponds) for King Kamehameha I. Parker married Kipikane, daughter of a cousin of Kānekapōlei, the wife of Kalani‘ōpu‘u. Parker’s wife took the Christian name Rachel, and gave birth to two sons and a daughter.
John Palmer Parker began building up his own cattle herd. He also built a sawmill and acquired thousands of acres of grazing land.
John Palmer Parker’s son, John Palmer Parker II, continued to increase the size of the ranch. In 1837, John Palmer Parker II began a cattle ranch on the northern part of the island of Hawai‘i.
Today Parker Ranch has more than 30,000 head of cattle (Angus and Charolais), with an annual production of more than 15 million pounds (6.8 million kg) of beef. The ranch also has about 250 horses and 850 miles (1,369 km) of fence.
The Parker Ranch Museum, located in the Visitor Center, includes various memorabilia relating to the Parker family (e.g., portraits) as well as the cattle ranch (e.g., saddles, antique ranching tools, etc.). Also on display are various ancient Hawaiian artifacts. A 45-minute horse-drawn wagon tour leaves from the Visitor Center.
Tickets to visit Parker Ranch Historic Homes may be purchased at Parker Ranch Museum. Located just south of Waimea, the homes include a recreation of John Palmer Parker’s original 1840s home, called Mānā Hale (“House of the spirit”) with its original koa interior. The house was once the center of ranch operations, and was also used extensively for entertaining guests by the John Palmer Parker’s grandson, Samuel Parker, and his wife Panana.
Another historic home available for tours is located on a scenic hill called Pu‘ōpelu. Originally purchased by John Palmer Parker II, Pu‘ōpelu was also the residence of Richard Smart, a 6th generation Parker who collected European art (e.g., Renoir, Degas) as well as antique vases from China, and other fine art (one of the Hawaiian Islands’ most prominent private art collections).
Visitors to the homes are also shown the grounds, which include well-manicured gardens. Parker Ranch also offers Hawaiian craft demonstrations, horseback riding, wagon rides, and hot air ballooning.
[Parker Ranch Historic Homes, Museum, and Visitor Center, 808-885-7655, www.parkerranch.com; Museum open 9-5 Mon.-Sat. Directions: Turnoff on Māmalahoa Highway (Hwy. 190), ¾-mile (1.2 km) south of Highway 19. Parker Ranch Historic Homes, 808-885-5433, Hwy. 190, Kamuela. Home tours are offered from 10-5 daily.]
Lapakahi State Historical Park
Lapakahi State Historical Park is the site of an ancient Hawaiian fishing village called Koai‘e, which was inhabited as long as 600 years ago. The self-guided walking tour is about 1 mile (1.6 km) long and includes interpretive exhibits about traditional practices (e.g., fishing, salt gathering, native plant propagation).
[Lapakahi State Historical Park, 808-974-6200, makai (ocean side) of Akoni Pule Highway (Hwy. 270), North Kohala, 12 miles (19 km) north of Kawaihae, North Kohala, 808-882-6207, open 8-4, daily.]
Mo‘okini Heiau
On the northern point of the island of Hawai‘i is the heiau known as Mo‘okini (“Many lineages”[cmlxx]), with walls that are about 259 feet (79 m) long by 125 feet (38 m) wide, and up to 25 feet (7.6 m) high and 10 feet (3 m) thick. Mo‘okini Heiau is thought to have been built as early as A.D. 480 with lava rocks that were passed along a chain of people stretching over 9 miles (14.5 km) along the coast from Niuli‘i.
An altar at the northern end of the heiau is said to have been added around the 12th century by a Tahitian high priest (kahuna) by the name of Pā‘ao, who introduced the practice of human sacrifice to the Hawaiian Islands. According to tradition, sometime before the year A.D. 1200, Pā‘ao founded the high priest line known as kahuna nui. Pā‘ao returned to Tahiti and brought back a chief named Pili, who ruled the island of Hawai‘i and sired the royal line leading to King Kamehameha I, beginning a 700-year dynasty.
Pā‘ao also introduced the war god Kūkā‘ilimoku, and the goddess of fire and volcanoes, Pele. Pā‘ao initiated the social order that separated ali‘i (royalty), kāhuna (priests and experts in a given profession), maka‘āinana (commoners who were mostly farmers), and the kauā (or kauwā) class, who were the lowest outcast members. Place Names of Hawaii(1974) states, ”Stones near here [Mo‘okini Heiau] were called Pā‘ao’s canoe, paddles, and fishhooks, and the fields he cultivated were called nā mau‘u o Pā‘ao (Pā‘ao’s grasses) and left untouched for fear of storms. A stone east of the heiau was called Pōhaku-holehole-kānaka (stone [for] stripping human [flesh]).[cmlxxi] After the sacrificial victims had their flesh removed, “...the bones were made into fishhooks and other objects.”[cmlxxii]
Mo‘okini Heiau was dedicated to the war god Kūkā‘ilimoku, and became a luakini, where human sacrifices were performed. Before the arrival of Pā‘ao the Hawaiians had built various heiau, but Pā‘ao constructed the first luakini (temple of human sacrifice). This luakini was called Waha‘ula (“Red Mouth”[cmlxxiii]), a seacoast heiau built in the 13thcentury at Puna on Hawai‘i Island. (See Waha‘ula Heiau in Puna section below.)
[Mo‘okini Heiau & Kamehameha ‘Akahi ‘Aina Hānau, 808-974-6200.] Directions: From Mile Marker 20 on Akoni Pule Highway (Hwy. 270), near Hāwī, at the ‘Upolu Airport sign, go north 1¾ miles (2.8 km) to ‘Upolu Airport and turn left (parallel to coast). Go 1½ miles (2.4 km) to fork in road and go left. This last part of the road may require a four-wheel drive vehicle if it has been raining. Park near the gate and walk to Mo‘okini Heiau (about a five minute walk).
Kapa‘au and Hāwī
Back in the days when sugar plantations were thriving in the Hawaiian Islands, Kapa‘au and Hāwī were bustling plantation towns with bustling saloons, theaters, hotels, and a railroad. Many of the town’s old structures are now restored, and house various gift shops and restaurants.
One of Kapa‘au’s main attractions is the Statue of King Kamehameha in front of the North Kohala Civic Center not far from where the future ruler of the Hawaiian Kingdom was born. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1753.) This statue of King Kamehameha at Kapa‘au is the original 9-ton (8-mton) statue cast by American sculptor Thomas Gould in Italy in 1883 (based on an early engraving). It was lost in transport to the Hawaiian Islands, but later found in the Falkland Islands soon after a duplicate statue arrived in Honolulu.
The King Kamehameha I statue is about 8½ feet (2.6 m) tall, showing the warrior king holding an ihe (spear), and wearing a mahiole (feather-crested helmet). He is also wearing an ‘ahu ‘ula (royal feather cloak) a malo (loin cloth), and kāma‘a‘ie (braided sandals). The statue is said to represent King Kamehameha I at the age of about 45.
The duplicate statue now stands in front of O‘ahu’s Ali‘iōlani Hale, the judiciary building opposite ‘Iolani Palace. The O‘ahu King Kamehameha I statue was unveiled in 1883 as part of King Kalākaua’s coronation ceremony at ‘Iolani Palace. (See Statue of King Kamehameha I in O‘ahu section, Chapter 2.)
Kapa‘au’s Kalāhikiola Church was constructed in 1855 by Elias and Ellen Bond, Protestant missionaries who came to Kohala in 1841. The church was damaged by a 1973 earthquake but later restored.
Pololū Valley Lookout / Pololū Beach
Pololū Valley Lookout is located at the end of Akoni Pule Highway (Hwy. 270) on Hawai‘i Island’s northwest coast. The view from above looks over Pololū Beach about 400 feet (122 m) below, where the shoreline is pounded by waves. Pololū is accessible only by kayak, or by descending a steep trail on foot or mule. The trail takes about 20 minutes to walk, and a good viewing spot is located about half way down.
Black lava worn away from the river bed is responsible for the black sands of Pololū Beach, including sand dunes up to 100 feet (30 m) high (mostly grown over). Due to large waves and strong currents. Pololū is not a recommended swimming beach. A trail on the opposite side of Pololū Valley leads up and over to the next valley called Honokāne (“Kāne’s Bay”[cmlxxiv]).
Pololū Valley was once well-populated by Hawaiians. The waterworn stones of Pololū were highly valued for use in Hawaiian construction projects, including King Kamehameha’s construction of the infamous Pu‘ukoholā Heiau at Kawaihae, 25 miles (40 km) away.
[Pololū Valley, end of Akoni Pule Highway (Hwy. 270), east of Kapa‘au.]
Waipi‘o Valley
In ancient days Waipi‘o Valley was the home of Hawaiian ali‘i (royalty). Today Waipi‘o Valley is home to probably less than 100 residents, but each day many visitors descend the extremely steep 4-wheel-drive-only road down the 2000-foot (610-m) cliffs into the valley. Walking down the road into the valley is also an option, but be prepared for a hardy hike back up.
Waipi‘o Valley is about 1 mile (1.6 km) wide by 5 miles (8 km) deep, culminating at the island of Hawai‘i’s tallest waterfall, Hi‘ilawe Falls, which drops more than 1,200 feet (366 m) down the Kohala Mountains.
Atop the hill above Waipi‘o Valley, at the beginning of the road down, is the Waipi‘o Valley Overlook. The Overlook provides a stunning view into the steep-walled valley that is the first of seven amphitheater valleys of the Kohala Mountains. A shuttle tour of Waipi‘o Valley is also available.
[Waip‘o Valley, Hāmākua Coast Highway (Hwy. 240), 8 miles (12.9 km) northwest of Honoka‘a.]
Kukuihaele
The tiny town of Kukuihaele is located on a short loop road off Highway 240, less than 1 mile (1.6 km) from the Waip‘o Valley Overlook. Kukuihaele means “Traveling light,” and it was said to be the home of “...a healing god, Ka-maka-nui-‘aha‘ilono (the great eye messenger).”[cmlxxv]
The town of Kukuihaele includes the Last Chance Store (open Mon.-Sat., 9-5), and Waipi‘o Valley Artworks (open 8-5, daily).
Mauna Kea Volcano
Mauna Kea Volcano is dormant, but not extinct. Just 3,000 to 4,500 years ago, Mauna Kea’s most recent eruptions formed some of the volcanic cinder cones near the summit. The summit is also home to rare plants and several native insect species, including a tiny, wingless predator known as the wēkiu bug (Nysius wekiuicola). Wēkiu means “Summit,” or “Peak.”[cmlxxvi]
The wēkiu bug has dark coloration to absorb heat, and also has an antifreeze substance in its blood that allows it to withstand the freezing temperatures. The wēkiu is about ¼-inch (6 mm) long, and feeds on insects blown up on the winds from lower habitats, first injecting the prey with digestive enzymes. The population of the wēkiu rises when there is lots of snow.
Mauna Kea’s summit is a sacred place in Hawaiian culture. The summit contains petroglyphs, religious shrines, burial sites, and an adze quarry that is the largest in Polynesia. Also at Mauna Kea’s summit area is Pu‘u Poli‘ahu cinder cone, home to Poli‘ahu, the Hawaiian snow goddess of Mauna Kea. An ancient proverb states, “Poli‘ahu, ka wahine kapa hau anu o Mauna Kea” (“Poli‘ahu, the woman who wears the snow mantle of Mauna Kea.”)[cmlxxvii]
Some topographical features on the summit of Mauna Kea are the result of glacial events that coincided with the advancing and retreating of glaciers on Earth’s continents during the last 200,000 years. Just below Mauna Kea’s summit, at 13,020 feet (3,968 m), is a cold and shallow lake called Lake Wai‘au (“Swirling water”[cmlxxviii]), one of the world’s highest lakes.
Despite its fiery origin, Mauna Kea’s summit is now a frigid place, typically around 60º Fahrenheit in spring and summer, but often below freezing in the winter when it’s frequently wreathed in snow. The Hawaiian meaning of Mauna Kea is “white mountain,”[cmlxxix] reflecting the fact that Mauna Kea may see blizzard-like conditions about six times per year, and may see snow any month of the year. Snowdrifts sometimes build to 15 feet (4.6 m) high.
The summits of Mauna Kea Volcano and Mauna Loa Volcano both receive an average 3 to 6 inches (7.5 to 15 cm) of snow per year. The summit area of Maui’s Haleakalā volcano only receives about half as much snow.
Mauna Kea’s summit is the highest peak in the Pacific Basin, at 13,796 feet (4,205 m) above sea level. Mauna Loa is technically “bigger” (more overall mass) than Mauna Kea. However, Mauna Kea is the tallest mountain on Earth if measured from base to summit, rising more than 6.3 miles (10.2 km) from the seafloor. (See Mauna Kea Astronomy, Chapter 4.)
Northeast Coast
Waipi‘o to Hilo along the Hāmākua Coast
The 45-mile (72-km) drive from Waipi‘o Valley to Hilo along Hawai‘i Belt Road (Hwy. 19), also known as the Hilo-Hāmakua Heritage Coast, is one of the most beautiful scenic drives in the Hawaiian Islands. Highway 19 traverses Mauna Kea’s wet windward slopes and includes several cantilevered bridges spanning deep ravines. The coastal route includes many places to stop for stunning ocean views, shoreline adventures, major and minor waterfalls, and an array of interesting shops and restaurants.
Much of this corridor is former sugarcane land now planted with macadamia nut trees and a whole array of diversified agricultural products. Towns along the route include Honoka‘a, Pa‘auilo, and Honomū.
Honoka‘a
Honoka‘a is the largest town along the Hāmākua Coast, though it is still a small town with a population of only about 2,000. Honoka‘a’s main street, Māmane Street (Highway 240), is lined with 1920s era wooden buildings that hearken to bygone days. These buildings house various antique/gift/craft shops and galleries.
Honoka‘a is a former sugarcane boomtown that was inextricably linked to the Hāmākua Sugar Company, which was established in 1873 and closed in 1994. Many of the Honoka‘a’s residents are descendants of immigrant sugarcane plant workers from Scotland, England, China, Portugal, Japan, Puerto Rico, and the Philippines.
Honoka‘a town also has a grocery store, and movies are shown on weekends at Honoka‘a People’s Theater, which is housed in a restored 1930 building.
Kalopā State Recreation Area
Kalopā State Recreation Area is located about 40 miles (64 km) north of Hilo and encompasses about 100 acres (40 ha). The park includes a great rainforest hike with lots of native plants and trees such as koa (Acacia koa) and ‘ōhi‘a lehua(Metrosideros species). Depending on your route, the hike can be up to 4 miles (6.4 km), with an elevation change of about 400 feet (122 m). Camping facilities are available.
[Kalopā State Recreation Area. Directions: Off Hawai‘i Belt Road (Hwy. 19) between Mile Markers 39 and 40.]
Laupāhoehoe Point / Onomea Drive
A sign on Highway marks the turnoff to Laupāhoehoe Point, which is located about halfway between Honoka‘a andHilo. The turnoff leads 1-1/3 miles (2.1 km) down a twisting, scenic road to Laupāhoehoe Point, which was formed by a river of lava that flowed from a relatively late eruption of Mauna Kea. Laupāhoehoe Harbor has restrooms and picnic facilities.
The name Laupāhoehoe means “Smooth lava flat,”[cmlxxx] describing the flat peninsula that forms the point. A plaque at Laupāhoehoe memorializes those who perished in the April 1, 1946 tsunami, which swept away the village located there.
[Photograph: Tsunami memorial plaque.]
The April Fool’s Day 1946 tsunami was caused by an earthquake in the Aleutian Islands, 2,400 miles (3,862 km) north of the Hawaiian Islands. The first of the tsunami waves, which was said to resemble an extra high tide, arrived in the Hawaiian Islands about four hours later, around 6:30 a.m., surrounding homes and buildings.
The third and fourth waves were the biggest of some 15 tsunami waves, each arriving about 15 minutes after the previous one, with some of the waves reaching heights up to 56 feet (17 m) above sea level, killing people and destroying property.
Ninety-six people in Hilo were killed by the waves. Nearly 500 homes and businesses were destroyed and more than 1,000 more damaged along with railroads, bridges, piers and ships, totaling an estimated $26 million of damage.
Other coastal areas on the island of Hawai‘i were also affected, including Laupāhoehoe where 24 people were killed, including 21 school children. The schoolhouse on the point was demolished.
The 1946 tsunami also hit other Hawaiian Islands, killing 17 people on Kaua‘i, 13 on Maui, and six on O‘ahu (one at Makapu‘u, two at Kahuku, and three at Kahana). (See Tsunamis, Chapter 4.)
[Laupāhoehoe Point, 808-961-8311; located off Hawai‘i Belt Road (Hwy. 19), north of Laupāhoehoe, daily, 7-sunset.]
Honomū
Honomū (“Silent bay”[cmlxxxi]) is a historic former sugarcane plantation town located about 10 miles (16 km) north of Hilo. The town’s main street now includes wooden boardwalks and tin-roofed buildings that house a variety of shops featuring food as well as local woodwork and crafts.
[Honomū, 2 miles (3.2 km) mauka (toward the mountains) from Hawai‘i Belt Road (Hwy. 19), on the way to ‘Akaka Falls.]
‘Akaka Falls State Park
Located off Hawai‘i Belt Road (Hwy. 19) inland from Honomū is ‘Akaka Falls State Park. It is well worth the 20-minute hike to see the ‘Akaka Falls plunging 442 feet (135 m) straight down the cliff and down Kolekole Stream. The more it has been raining, of course, the more tumultuous the cascading waterfall.
Along the ½-mile (.8-km) circular trail is jungle-like vegetation including ferns, heliconia, orchids, fragrant ginger (red, pink, and blue), bamboo groves, and giant philodendron vines. Also seen along the trail is the 100-foot (30-m) highKahūnā Falls.
[‘Akaka Falls State Park, 808-974-6200, ‘Akaka Falls Road (Hwy. 220), 3.5 miles (5.6 km) west of Honomū, open daily 7-7. Directions: Off Hawai‘i Belt Road (Hwy. 19), near Honomū, turn inland on ‘Akaka Falls Road (Highway 220), between Mile Markers 13 and 14, and drive through Honomū and then another 3¾ miles (6 km) to ‘Akaka Falls State Park.]
Hawai‘i Tropical Botanical Garden / Pepe‘ekeo Scenic Route
Hawai‘i Tropical Botanical Garden is located on the 4-mile (6.4-km) long Pepe‘ekeo Scenic Route off the Hawai‘i Belt Road (Hwy. 19) in Onomea Valley between Honomū and Hilo. Founded in August of 1978 by Dan and Pauline Lutkenhouse, the Garden features many rare and exotic plants, including many palms, gingers, bromeliads, heliconias, and a great diversity of ornamentals.
Streams and waterfalls add to the park’s beauty, with more than 25,000 plants of 2,500 different species, including more than 2,000 orchids (750 different species) in the Orchid Garden. Hawai‘i Tropical Botanical Garden is also home to six South American macaws.
This scenic drive winds through the region formerly known as Pepe‘e-ke-ō, which means, “The food crushed, as by warriors in battle,”[cmlxxxii] and it is said that “...a stream and rock here are named for Kama-pua‘a, who tried unsuccessfully to drown Hina, mother of Māui here.”[cmlxxxiii]
[Hawai‘i Tropical Botanical Garden, 808-964-5233, 27-717, www.hawaiigarden.com, 9-4 daily; on Pepe‘ekeo Scenic Route; Pāpa‘ikou, about 7 miles (11 km) north of Hilo.]
Hilo
Hilo is Hawai‘i Island’s capital city and also a major port (the second largest in the Hawaiian Islands). About one third of the population of the island of Hawai‘i lives in Hilo.
Relatively cool and wet, Hilo is located on Hilo Bay on the island’s northeast side where rain falls most days of the year. Hawai‘i Islands’ prodigious rainfall has led to the town’s nickname, “America’s rainiest city,” and the rain produces the town’s luxuriant jungle-like growth, cascading waterfalls, and of course rainbows.
Hilo’s lush weather also allows for plenteous flower production in local nurseries and greenhouses. Popular commercial flowers produced in Hilo include anthuriums, orchids, and gingers, many of which are exported to various locations outside of the Hawaiian Islands.
Hilo is a college town, as home to the campus of the University of Hawai‘i-Hilo. Hilo is also home to the Hawaiian Islands’ premier hula competition, the Merrie Monarch Festival, which is held each April.
Hilo’s Banyan Drive travels around the Waiākea Peninsula on Hilo Bay, and passes Hilo’s bayfront hotels, the Naniloa Country Club golf course, and Lili‘uokalani Gardens. The large, sprawling banyan trees lining Banyan Drive are marked with plaques identifying the various celebrities and royalty who planted the trees, including Amelia Earhart, Babe Ruth, Cecil B. DeMille and many others.
Lili‘uokalani Gardens was originally designed as a tribute to the region’s Japanese immigrants. The park now encompasses 30 acres (12 ha) along Banyan Drive, and includes bridges over streams as well as pagodas and a ceremonial tea house. Hilo is also home to the Big Island Visitors Bureau (see below).
[Big Island Visitors Bureau, 808-961-5797, 250 Keawe Street (at Haili Street), open 8-4:30, M-F. Brochure available: Walking Tour of Historic Downtown (also available at Lyman House), www.bigisland.org.]
Kalākaua Park
Kalākaua Park is located in downtown Hilo. A sundial in the park was placed there by King Kalākaua in 1877. Under a banyan tree in the park is a bronze statue of King Kalākaua holding a leaf of kalo (Colocasia esculenta, taro) and apā ipu, a hula drum made from an ipu (Lagenaria siceraria, bottle gourd). The statue was sculpted in 1988.
Kalākaua Park also includes a war memorial. Adjacent to Kalākaua Park is King Kalākaua’s summer home, called Niolopa.
[Kalākaua Park, downtown Hilo, add.]
Lyman House Memorial Museum and Mission House
The Lyman Mission House is the oldest frame structure on the island of Hawai‘i. The house was built in 1839 for missionaries Reverend David and Sarah Lyman from New England. The Lymans had seven children, and in 1931 the Lyman descendants established the Lyman Museum, which is now listed on the National and State Registers of Historic Places.
The Lyman Museum features numerous exhibits on many different aspects of Hawaiian culture, from the making of kapa (tapa) barkcloth to pili grass houses and ceremonial items. Other exhibits highlight the various ethnic groups that arrived in the Hawaiian Islands as immigrant laborers.
The restored mission house displays exhibits about early mission life. Next door is the Lyman Museum building next door was dedicated in 1973 and includes displays about Hawaiian geology, the Earth’s formation, and Hawaiian flora and fauna as well as a rock and mineral collection.
A significant mineral exhibit is on display as well as an astronomy exhibit that includes computers linked to the astronomical observatories atop Mauna Kea. The Museum also offers walking tours of Hilo.
[Lyman House Memorial Museum and Mission House, 808-935-5021, 276 Haili Street, Hilo, www.lymanmuseum.org, Mon.-Sat., 9-4:30.]
Naha Stone and Pinao Stone
Exhibited on the front lawn of the Hilo Library is the Pōhaku Naha (Naha Stone). A prophecy predicted that whoever could move this nearly 5,000-pound (2,268-kg) stone would conquer all of the Hawaiian Islands. In 1775, the young Kamehameha reportedly met this challenge, and later became the ruler of a united Hawaiian Kingdom. In attendance when Kamehameha performed the feat was the prophetess Kalaniwahine. It was said that a newborn child placed who stayed quiet when placed on the stone was of royal blood if he/she remained quiet.
Also on the Hilo Library lawn is the Pinao Stone, which is said to have been a entrance pillar to the Pinao Heiau (sacred place of worship) near Wailuku River. This same heiau was also formerly the site of the Naha Stone, which is said to have previously been brought to the island of Hawai‘i from Kaua‘i. (See Chapter 11, Timeline: 1775.)
[Hilo Library, 300 Waiānuenue Avenue, Hilo.]
Pacific Tsunami Museum
The Pacific Tsunami Museum is located near the Hilo Bayfront in the historic First Hawaiian Bank Building, a restored Art Deco style building that was designed by Charles William Dickey in 1931. The Pacific Tsunami Museum includes exhibits about the 1946 and 1960 tsunamis that devastated Hilo, including personal stories of survivors.
Information is provided about the Pacific Tsunami Warning System as well as myths and legends about tsunamis. A theater shows videos about tsunamis, and there is also a keiki (children’s) area and an interactive computer area.
The 1946 tsunami destroyed all of the buildings makai (on the ocean side) of Kamehameha Avenue except theMo‘oheau Bandstand, which still stands across the street and down a bit from the museum.
[Pacific Tsunami Museum, 808-935-0926, 130 Kamehameha Avenue, Hilo, www.tsunami.org, open 10-4, Mon.-Sat.]
Rainbow Falls State Park
Rainbow Falls is located on the Wailuku River in west Hilo, up Waiānuenue Avenue in Rainbow Falls State Park. Waiānuenue means “Rainbow [seen in] water.”[cmlxxxiv] The waterfall, which is reached by hiking a short trail, plunges down about 80 feet (24 m) into a huge pool below. The trail also passes by a large banyan tree and luxuriant tropical growth that includes large ferns and groves of bamboo.
According to Hawaiian legend, a large cave at the base of the Rainbow Falls is said to be home to Hina, the mother of Māui who pulled the Hawaiian Islands up from the ocean. An ancient proverb states, “Ka ua lei mā‘ohu o Waiānuenue” (“The rain of Waiānuenue that is like a wreath of mist.”)[cmlxxxv]
[Rainbow Falls, Directions: Take Waiānuenue Avenue west of Hilo 1 mile (1.6 km), stay to the right at fork in road; a warrior sign marks the Falls.]
Pe‘epe‘e Falls / Boiling Pots
About 1½ miles (2.4 km) above Rainbow Falls is Pe‘epe‘e Falls and Boiling Pots, with four streams cascading down a sheer cliff into large, round pools. These depressions in the lava rock, where the water churns and boils, has given this site its common name, Boiling Pots.
[Pe‘epe‘e Falls / Boiling Pots, 3 miles (4.8 km) west of Hilo on Waiānuenue Ave.]
Nani Mau Gardens
About 3 miles (4.8 km) south of Hilo is Nani Mau Gardens, encompassing 20 acres (8 ha) propagating a variety ofwell-groomed native and exotic plants, including many flowers (e.g., anthuriums, orchids).
Popular among the tour bus companies, Nani Mau Gardens also offers tram rides through the sculpted and artistically arranged gardens. A botanical museum provides information and displays. There is also a restaurant offering a Polynesian buffet.
[Nani Mau Gardens, 808-959-3500, 421 Makalika Street, Hilo, www.nanimau.com, open 8:30-5 daily. Located 3 miles (4.8 km) south of Hilo. Directions: Just before Mile Marker 4 on Kanoelehua Highway (Hwy. 11), take Makalika Street, www.nanimau.com.]
Mauna Loa Visitor Center
This is where the Mauna Loa Company processes their macadamia nuts.
[Mauna Loa Visitor Center, Kanoelehua Highway (Hwy. 11), between Mile Markers 5 and 6.]
Mauna Loa Volcano
Mauna Loa Volcano rises 13,677 feet (4,169 m) above sea level, and descends another 18,000 feet (5,486 m) below the sea. The most massive mountain on Earth, Mauna Loa is 10,000 cubic miles (25,900 km) in all, making it more than100 times as large as Washington’s Mount Rainier.
The summit caldera of Mauna Loa is called Moku‘āweoweo, and is about 3 miles (4.8 km) long, 1.5 miles (2.4 km) wide, and 600 feet (183 m) deep, having filled in somewhat from its depth of more than 985 feet (300 m) in 1794.
Historic Eruptions
In the last 1,100 years, Mauna Loa’s eruptions have poured lava over some 1,000 square miles (2,590 sq. km), which is about half of the volcano’s total land area. Mauna Loa has erupted 37 times since 1832, and 14 times in the last 100 years. Between 1843 and 1949, Mauna Loa erupted 35 times.
Lava flows from Mauna Loa eruptions have repeatedly threatened the town of Hilo. When it happened in 1880, the flowing lava took 280 days to reach the edge of Hilo, where King Kamehameha’s granddaughter, Princess Ruth Ke‘elikōlani is said to have supplicated the wrath of the volcano goddess Pele by traveling to the area and offering chants and gifts. The lava flows stopped just on the edge of town. When lava flows again threatened Hilo in 1930 and 1940, the Army Air Corps attempted (unsuccessfully) to divert or disperse the flows by dropping bombs.
Lava flows from a Mauna Loa eruption could reach the South Kona area, as they did in 1950, reaching the ocean in only about three hours. The 1950 event lasted for 23 days, destroying many homes and ranches. A 1975 summit eruption lasted for several days and blocked a road near the volcano’s summit.
A 22-day eruption of Mauna Loa in 1984 sent lava flowing for 16 miles (26 km) down to the 3,200-foot (975-m) level of the mountain, and covered more than 18 square miles (47 sq. km). The flow came close enough to Hilo to make many people very nervous. Residents on Hawai‘i Island can’t purchase volcano insurance but they may purchase fire insurance and then hope their homes are ignited before they are buried.
After its most recent eruption in 1984, Mauna Loa was in an inflation phase with magma collecting beneath the summit. Then from 1994 until May 12, 2002, Mauna Loa was in a deflation phase, possibly due to the cooling of the magma beneath the summit, leading to contraction.
Recent Activity
On May 12, 2002, Mauna Loa’s summit caldera (Moku‘āweoweo) gradually began swelling, and outward spreading began along a northeast rift (facing Puna and Hilo) at an elevation on the volcano between about 10,000 and 13,000 feet (3,050 to 3,960 m). Though the swelling decreased in early 2003, researchers remain cautious, as the pattern of swelling during the second half of 2002 was similar to what occurred previous to the 1975 and 1984 eruptions, and the rate of swelling was actually higher in 2002 than before the 1975 and 1984 eruptions.
Volcano researchers have long considered Mauna Loa and Kīlauea Volcanoes to be fueled by separate magmatic systems. When a recent increase in lava flow activity at Kīlauea began on the same day that Mauna Loa’s summit crater began to inflate, it led researchers to consider the possibility that the two simultaneous events may not be a coincidence, and that the magma systems of Mauna Loa and Kīlauea may be connected much closer to the surface than previously believed.
The summit of Mauna Loa is more than 2½ miles (4 km) above sea level, but the magma collects in a region about 3 miles (4.8 km) beneath the summit (just beneath sea level). This collecting magma caused the summit caldera to stretch (inflate) by about 4/5th inch (2 cm) since from May 12, 2002 until 2003. This geophysical data was gathered by Hawaiian Volcano Observatory volcanologists monitoring six tiltmeters and four global positioning system instruments on Mauna Loa.
Predicting Future Eruptions
Earthquakes or “mini-quakes” usually occur wherever large amounts of magma are moving beneath the earth’s surface, and increased seismic activity (earthquakes) will likely precede any major eruption of Mauna Loa, giving at least several hours warning for those who might be in the path of the lava flows. An increase in earthquakes near Mauna Loa’s summit was recorded in 2002, though not significant enough to signal an imminent eruption.
Researchers agree that the most likely site of a new volcanic eruption of lava from Mauna Loa would be at the volcano’s summit. Such an eruption could threaten Hilo (to the east) as well as Kona and its Gold Coast resorts (to the west).
Subdivisions above South Point, near Mauna Loa’s southwest rift zone, are considered the most likely to be inundated by a Mauna Loa eruption. More than $2 billion has been spent since 1984 for new construction on this part of the volcano near the southwest rift, and some of these structures were built on lava flows less than a century old.
Puna
The Puna district is located on the eastern side of the island of Hawai‘i, and is known for lava flows, lava tidepools, tree molds of lava, and areas where villages once stood that are now covered with....lava! Puna is also the region where Kīlauea Volcano’s famously active east rift zone has been pumping out molten earth pretty much non-stop since 1983.
Kea‘au Pāhoa Road (Hwy. 130) leads to Pāhoa, known as the “heart of Puna.” Pāhoa has a rustic cowboy architecture as well as raised wooden sidewalks. Also in Pāhoa is the Akebono Theater, built in 1917. Recently renovated, the theater once again shows films and hosts concerts. The town itself is somewhat known for its renegade and outlaw spirit.
Lava Tree State Park is located on Pāhoa-Kapoho Road (Highway 132) about 2½ miles (4 km) from Kea‘au Pāhoa Road (Highway 130). A 1790 eruption of Kīlauea Volcano’s east rift zone created the lava tree molds now seen in the park. When a fast-moving lava flow moved through the area and then receded, lava stuck to many of the trees. This burned the‘ōhi‘a lehua trees (Metrosideros species) but left behind a forest of lava molds up to 10 feet (3 m) high. A 20-minute loop trail leads through the area.
In north Puna is the small town of Kea‘au.
Formerly located in Puna was Waha‘ula Heiau, an ancient heiau (sacred place of worship) built by a Tahitian high priest (kahuna) by the name of Pā‘ao who, according to tradition, founded a high priest line known as kahuna nui sometime before the year A.D.1200. Pā‘ao returned to Tahiti and brought back a chief named Pili, who ruled Hawai‘i Island and sired the royal line beginning a 700-year dynasty culminating with the Kamehamehas.
Before the arrival of Pā‘ao the Hawaiians had built various heiau (sacred place of worship), but Pā‘ao constructed Waha‘ula Heiau at Puna on Hawai‘i Island. Waha‘ula was the first luakini (temple of human sacrifice). (Note: Waha‘ula Heiau was buried by the lava flow in 1997.) Pā‘ao also introduced the war god Kūkā‘ilimoku, and Pele, the goddess of fire and volcanoes.
Pā‘ao initiated the social order that separated ali‘i (royalty), kāhuna (priests and experts in a given profession), maka‘āinana (commoners who were mostly farmers), and the kauā (or kauwā) class, who were the lowest outcast members. There was a system of laws (kānāwai) that determined if something was kapu (sacred or forbidden). Commoners fell prostrate to the ground in the presence of chiefs, who possessed more mana (divine power).
[Pāhoa, From Kea‘au on Kanoelehua Avenue (Hwy. 11), go southeast on Kea‘au Pāhoa Road (Hwy. 130) for 11 miles (18 km).]
[Lava Tree State Park, Hwy. 132. Puna District, 808-974-6200; open from just before sunrise to just after sunset.]
Punalu‘u Black Sand Beach
This black sand beach lines a small bay that is also a nesting site for the endangered Hawaiian Hawksbill sea turtle(Eretmochelys imbricata), which digs a hole in the sand then buries its eggs, which are about the size of ping pong balls. A short walk from the north end of the beach leads to the ruins of a pier and warehouse of the Pāhala Sugar Company.
On the south side is Punalu‘u Beach Park, with picnic and camping facilities. Punalu‘u means “Spring dived for.”[cmlxxxvi] The concrete wall near Punalu‘u’s boat ramp was dynamited by the United States Army after the December 7, 1941 Pearl Harbor attack to prevent its use by Japanese in the case of an invasion.
[Photograph: Island of Hawai‘i scene]
Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park—Kīlauea Volcano
Visitor Center: 808-985-6000, open 7:45-5 daily.
Hawaiian Volcano Observatory “Volcano Watch”: http://hvo.wr.usgs.gov.
Hawai‘i Center for Volcanology: www.soest.hawaii.edu/GG/HCV/Kilauea
Volcano House: 967-7321.
Park open 24 hours; Internet site: www.nps.gov/havo.
Kīlauea Volcano extends over an area of about 600 square miles (1,550 sq km) of the southcentral region of the island of Hawai‘i. During the last century, Kīlauea was erupting approximately 48% of the time, but the volcano was noticeably quiet from the 1920s until the late 1950s. Kīlauea has erupted at least 20 times since 1959.
From January 3, 1983 to 1986, Kīlauea erupted spectacular fountains of lava, and the volcano has been erupting almost continuously since that time. Since 1983, Kīlauea Volcano’s lava flows have covered more than 38 square miles (98 sq. km), destroying more than 180 homes and adding more than 535 acres (217 ha) of land to the coast of the Big Island (including more than 10 acres (4 ha) just since May, 2002.
Earlier centuries may have seen even greater eruptive events. Researchers recently used radiocarbon dating to reveal that an area called the ‘Aila‘u flow was the result of a continuous eruption that likely lasted from 1410 until 1470.
Summit Calderas
The summit calderas of Kīlauea, Mauna Loa (on Hawai‘i Island), and Haleakalā (on Maui) all formed when magma (subsurface molten rock) beneath the summit areas drained away, causing the summit to collapse inward. The summit caldera of Kīlauea Volcano is up to 2.5 miles (4 km) across and 400 feet (122 m) deep. Within Kīlauea Caldera is a pit crater called Halema‘uma‘u Crater. At an elevation of 3,646 feet (1,111 m), Halema‘uma‘u is a pit crater within the larger Kīlauea Crater.
Halema‘uma‘u Crater is about 3,000 feet (914 m) across and more than 280 feet (85 m) deep. The crater is said to be the site where Pele, the goddess of fire and volcanoes, still protects her sacred fires (see The Legend of Pele below).
Magma funneled up into Halema‘uma‘u Crater from deep in the earth ebbs and flows, and this magma movement has caused the size of Halema‘uma‘u Crater to vary over the last century. Halema‘uma‘u Crater was about 1,200 feet (366 m) deep in 1924, but eruptions as recently as 1974 and 1982 poured lava onto the crater floor and filled it to its present depth, now only about 280 feet (85 m). Today pungent sulfur fumes continue to steam up from mineral-encrusted cracks on Halema‘uma‘u’s black-rock floor.
Pit craters similar to Halema‘uma‘u Crater also line the East Rift Zone that leads from Kīlauea’s summit toward the ocean. The aptly named Chain of Craters Road descends 3,700 feet (1,128 m) from the summit to the sea. In 1986, the road was blocked by lava flows, and then eventually reopened, but closed again in 1987.
More than 9 miles (14 km) of the original road have been covered since 1986. The increased activity, which began on May 12, 2002, once again sent lava flows over the road. Also found along Chain of Craters road is the Pu‘u Lo‘a Petroglyph Area, a remarkable display of Hawaiian petroglyphs. (See Petroglyphs, Chapter 3.)
During nearly a century of continuous volcanic activity, the pit crater of Kīlauea’s Halema‘uma‘u Crater was a lava lake. In 1924, there was a violent steam eruption as the lava lake drained out. Since then approximately 40 more eruptions have occurred in the area of the summit and rift zones that run down the volcano’s flanks.
Kīlauea’s summit area has seen only two eruption events since 1982, and each of these lasted less than one day. The most recent activity is a flank eruption on the East Rift Zone that began in 1983 and continues today. Since 1983, Kīlauea Volcano has released more than 67 billion cubic feet (1.9 billion cu. m) of lava that has covered at least 40.7 square miles (105.5 sq. km).
Crater Rim Drive
Crater Rim Drive circles Kīlauea‘s summit caldera, allowing a tour of pit craters, lava tubes, sulfur banks, steam vents, and recent lava flows. The magma is still very near the surface of the summit area, and steam vents are common there just as they are along the rift zones.
Kīlauea Iki Crater
Kīlauea Iki is a smaller crater found in the summit area, and likely formed about the same time the summit collapsed to form the caldera. Kīlauea Iki means “Little Kīlauea,” and last displayed a stunning fire show in 1959 when fountains of lava erupted to heights of 1,900 feet (579 m), the highest ever recorded in the Hawaiian Islands.
Kīpuka and Lava Trees
Kīpuka are “islands” of forest surrounded by lava flows. Kīpuka support many native plants that have evolved in these unique and isolated habitats on Kīlauea Volcano. Tree molds and “lava trees” form when lava engulfs trees and hardens.
The lava-covered areas of the cataclysmic summit environment on Kīlauea Volcano appear quite desolate, but the summit is bordered by lush rainforests dominated by ‘ōhi‘a lehua trees (Metrosideros species) and hāpu‘u tree ferns(Cibotium species).
[Photograph: Kīlauea Summit]
Lava Tubes and Skylights
Lava tubes are formed when flowing hot lava cools and crusts over as the still-molten interior lava continues to flow downhill through the tunnel. When the molten lava eventually drains out from the hardened outer crust it leaves behind a lava tube, which is just the hardened shell of the flowing lava. The most prominent example of a lava tube is found along Crater Rim Drive at the Thurston Lava Tube, known by the Hawaiian name of Nāhuku, which means “The protuberances.”[cmlxxxvii]
In active lava tubes on the East Rift Zone or near the sea, one might see what is known as a “skylight.” Skylights occur when the walls of a lava tube are very thin, and close to their melting point, or when the lava tube roof collapses giving a view of the flowing lava within.
Park Accommodations and Trails
At the 4,000-foot (1,220-km) elevation on the northern rim of Kīlauea Caldera is Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park Headquarters as well as the Visitor Center, Volcano Art Center, and the Volcano House Hotel and Restaurant. Along Crater Rim Drive is a second visitor center known as the Thomas A. Jaggar Museum.
Hiking trails in the summit area include: the 11-mile (18-km) long Crater Rim Trail that circles the summit caldera; Halema‘uma‘u Trail (6.4 miles; 10.3 km); Kīlauea Iki Trail (5 miles; 8 km); the Thurston Lava Tube (Nāhuku) walk (1/3 mile; .5 km); and Devastation Trail, through Kīlauea Iki’s cinder outfall (1 mile; 1.6 km).
Mauna Iki Trail (3.6 miles; 5.8 km) leads to the footprints of Hawaiian warriors preserved in ash from an eruption in 1790. Mauna Iki is a dome that was formed during an eruption on the southwest rift in 1920. A 14-mile (22.5-km) round trip hike called Nāpau-Kalapana leads to Nāpau Crater and close to the extremely active region of Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō and the East Rift Zone (see below).
O ka lā ko luna, o ka pāhoehoe ko lalo.
The sun above, the smooth lava below.
Said of a journey in which the traveler suffers the heat of the sun above
and the reflected heat from the lava bed below.
(Pukui: 2417-264)
Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō Crater
Though Kīlauea’s summit has had some spectacular eruptions in the recent past, most of the current activity on Kīlauea Volcano occurs along the Southwest and East Rift Zones. In 1984, at a site along the East Rift Zone called Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō Crater, explosions of fountaining lava reached heights of more than 1,500 feet (457 m).
Since Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō Crater began erupting on Jan. 3, 1983, its lava flows have destroyed more than 187 structures. These were mostly homes, but also included churches, heiau (sacred places of worship), and native sacred sites). Dozens of homes in the Royal Gardens subdivision in lower Puna were destroyed. In May of 2001, the Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō Vent flow covered almost a mile of an unpaved access road to the subdivision, blocking nearly 1,500 people from the lots they owned.
[Photograph: Lava destruction]
Papapau kākou, he ‘a‘ā ko ka hale.
We are all destroyed; only lava rocks will be found in the house.
Utter destruction, as by a lava flow.
(Pukui: 2603-286)
In 1997, amidst a swarm of earthquakes, Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō crater erupted and collapsed, sending abrasive red cinder dust (fine-grained lithic tephra) over dozens of square miles of Kīlauea’s eastern flank. The iron in the volcanic rock oxidized as it was ejected, creating red dust-sized particles that were a kind of volcanic rust.
About 3 miles (5 km) up the East Rift Zone from Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō Crater, and 9 miles (14.5 km) east of Kīlauea’s summit, curtains of fiery lava up to 100 feet (30 m) tall shot from fissures in the Earth.
[Photograph: Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō Crater collapse]
A significant increase in lava flows from Kīlauea Volcano’s Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō vent began on May 12, 2002, the same date that Mauna Loa showed volcanic activity (see below). Kīlauea’s May 12, 2002 outbreak of lava first reached the ocean along the Puna coast on July 19, 2002. As many as four thousand visitors per day flocked to the area to see the increased activity, including streams of lava cascading up to 45 feet (14 m) off the seacliffs into the ocean.
Visitors to Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park should be extremely cautious. Molten lava produces sulfuric fumes and a lava haze (nicknamed “laze”) that may be hazardous if inhaled, particularly for those with lung or heart conditions. Where the lava enters the ocean scalding sprays of water are produced along with the gases.
At least seven people have died during lava-viewing visits in the last two decades, including four people who died because they got too close to the active areas where 2,000º Fahrenheit (1,093º Celsius) lava flows into the sea.
Three people died some distance from the active flow areas—one from a heart attack and one from a fall while hiking over the hardened lava. On April 19, 1993, a man died when a section of the newly created lava shoreline that he was standing on collapsed into the ocean.
Much of Kīlauea’s erupting lava flows to the sea through underground tubes beneath areas hardened surface lava that may still be very hot from the lava flowing underneath. Some hardened lava may be extremely unstable, including shelves of lava near the ocean that may be particularly unpredictable and dangerous. Walking across expanses of jagged lava to get to the active flows also provides its own difficulties, and sturdy footwear is recommended, including thick soles and ankle support.
Since May of 2002, the lava flows have added at least 10 acres (4 ha) of land to the island of Hawai‘i, also creating new black sand beaches along the island’s southeast shore. The eruption also sparked a fire that burned 3,600 acres (1,457 ha). Updates on volcanic activity may be seen at the Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park website and the United States Geological Service (USGS) Hawaiian Volcano Observatory website (see above).
Lava Types, Black-Sand Beaches and Volcanic Gas
If you visit a lava flow area you will see two distinct types of hardened lava: ‘a‘ā (pronounced ah-ah) and pāhoehoe (pronounced puh hoy hoy). Both types of lava have the same chemical composition, but differ in their appearance.
Pāhoehoe lava has a ropy, smooth texture, because it is hotter and more fluid than ‘a‘ā when it erupts. ‘A‘ā has a rougher, chunkier look, and may be spiny. Both types of lava may be shiny black or a dull brownish color. ‘A‘ā lava contains less gas upon erupting, being at a lower temperature than pāhoehoe. Pāhoehoe’s hotter temperature allows it to flow in wrinkles and folds, rather than chunking up like ‘a‘ā.
[Photographs: Pāhoehoe lava; ‘a‘ā lava (comparison)]
When hot flowing lava explodes into the ocean, tiny particles of the material are carried by currents toward nearby shorelines where black-sand beaches form. Steam clouds created by lava entering the ocean contain hydrochloric acid and volcanic glass particles, which may cause respiratory problems. Beware of getting too close! Two visitors died in 2000 from breathing the heated gases near the flowing lava area.
Kīlauea’s eruptions are estimated to be emitting about 1,000 tons (907 mton) of sulfur dioxide gas into the air each day (almost continually since 1982), making it one of the biggest sources of air pollution on the island of Hawai‘i. This volcanic gas known as “Vog” is a brown haze that accumulates in the lee of Mauna Loa, to the misfortune of South Kona residents. When the island winds blow to the northwest, the Vog may reach all the way to Kaua‘i, the northernmost island of the main Hawaiian Islands.
Kaho‘olawe
Overview of Kaho‘olawe
Land Area: 44.6 square miles (115.5 sq. km)
Island Emblem: Hinahina (Heliotropium anomalum var. argenteum)
Highest Elevation: 1,483 feet (452 m), at the summit of Pu‘u Moa‘ulanui.
Size Comparison: Kaho‘olawe is the eighth largest Hawaiian Island.
[Illustration: Map—Kaho‘olawe]
Cultural / Historical Sites and Attractions
Kaho‘olawe is a relatively dry island, located less than 7 miles (11.3 km) southwest of Maui, and largely blocked from heavy rains by Maui’s Haleakalā Volcano. Kaho‘olawe is about 11 miles (18 km) long and 6 miles (9.7 km) wide.
According to Hawaiian tradition, Kaho‘olawe is the sacred home of the god Kanaloa. The island is also the site of many heiau (sacred places of worship) built by ancient Hawaiians. Ancient chants have revealed that a spot at the 1,444-foot (440-m) elevation on a Kaho‘olawe mountain called Moa‘ulaiki was a place where the Polynesian ocean navigators were trained in the arts of celestial navigation, using stars to guide them over the vast Pacific Ocean.
Hakioawa (“Breaking of [the] harbor”[cmlxxxviii]) in north Kaho‘olawe is said to be where ‘Ai‘ai, the fish demigod, erected a kū‘ula (altar) on a cliff overlooking the ocean. The temple at Hakioawa is thought to have been built before A.D. 1600.
In 1829, kuhina nui (premier) Ka‘ahumanu, then a Protestant convert, ordered that practicing Catholics be punished. For a short time after this proclamation, the island of Kaho‘olawe served as a penal colony for the offenders. A Hawaiian proverbs states: “He uku maoli ia, he i‘a no Kaho‘olawe,” (“He is an uku, a fish of Kaho‘olawe,” meaning, “He is a rebel. Said by Keopuolani of Kekuaokalani when she suspected him of rebellion at the time of ‘ai-noa (the abolishing of the kapu).”[cmlxxxix]
[Photograph: Moa‘ulaiki]
Kaho‘olawe’s land and native ecosystems have suffered a long history of abuse, beginning with the habitat degradation caused by introduced goats as well as cattle ranching. In 1920, the United States military began using the island of Kaho‘olawe as a bombing range for ships and aircraft.
In 1939, the Territory of Hawai‘i leased the southern tip of Kaho‘olawe to the United States Army for use as an artillery range. After the 1941 attack on Pearl Harbor (and despite many objections) the U.S. Navy gained exclusive use of Kaho‘olawe for bombing practice and gunnery training.
On February 20, 1953, President Dwight D. Eisenhower signed an executive order placing Kaho‘olawe under the Secretary of the Navy’s jurisdiction, for use by the Navy.
A grass-roots protest movement developed, and was known as Protect Kaho‘olawe ‘Ohana. On January 4, 1976, the group led the first protest occupation of Kaho‘olawe in an effort to stop the use of the island as a military bombing target. Seven of the nine protesters occupying the island were arrested within hours, but two of the protesters were not caught, and remained on the island for three days. In 1977 George Jarrett Helm Jr. and James “Kimo” Mitchell disappeared during their attempt to reclaim Kaho‘olawe for native Hawaiians.
In 1980, Protect Kaho‘olawe ‘Ohana entered into an agreement with the U.S. Navy. The consent decree authorized an archeological survey as well as goat eradication, and began clearance of weapons materials from the island’s surface, though military training on Kaho‘olawe continued. On March 18, 1981, Kaho‘olawe was placed on the National Register of Historic Places.
On October 22, 1990, U.S. President George Bush ended the use of Kaho‘olawe for bombing practice, and created a congressional commission to work out a return of the island to Hawaiians.
In 1993, the U. S. Navy received a $400 million authorization from the U. S. Congress to clean ordnance from Kaho‘olawe (through November, 2003, and then later extended four months), and the Kaho‘olawe Island Reserve Commission was put in charge of restoring the island once the ordnance was removed.
In 1994, under a congressional appropriations act and presidential order, the island of Kaho‘olawe was returned to the State of Hawai‘i. In July of 1997, Parsons-UXB Joint Venture was given a contract to clear ordnance, and employed archaeologists, surveyors, environmental specialists, heavy equipment operators, and other workers. The Navy transferred control of access to Kaho‘olawe to the State of Hawai‘i on November 11, 2003.
By the end of 2003, the cleanup efforts had succeeded in clearing more than 20,000 acres (8,100 ha) of the island’s surface to 4 feet (1.2 m) deep. More than 90,000 pieces of ordnance were disposed of, including 2000-pound (907 kg) bombs. More than 8.5 million pounds (3.9 million kg) of weapon fragments were gathered.
In addition, more than 12,000 tires (commonly used to mark targets) were removed from Kaho‘olawe. The Navy also identified 2,550 historic sites on Kaho‘olawe, including 630 discovered during the cleanup effort. Seventeen of the 27 cultural sites that had been identified in a 1995 Land Use Plan were cleared.
A $3 million rain catchment tank was installed at the island’s summit to provide water for the native plants and trees including more than 20,000 plants in Lua Makika crater.
Kaho‘olawe remains off limits to the general public, and there is a 2-mile (3.2-km) offshore no fishing zone. Kaho‘olawe is visited by Native Hawaiians as well as by military personnel carrying out the federally funded clean-up of bombed and unexploded ordnance.
More than 500 archaeological sites have been identified on Kaho‘olawe, although many of the island’s native sites were destroyed by years of bombings. Kaho‘olawe is now designated by the State of Hawai‘i as a cultural reserve.
On the Kaho‘olawe volcano called Lua Makika there is a large stone quarry once used by ancient Hawaiians.
[Photograph: Kaho‘olawe scene]
Northwestern Hawaiian Islands
Overview
Nihoa Island
Necker Island
French Frigate Shoals
Gardner Pinnacles
Midway Atoll
Laysan Island
Northwestern Hawaiian Islands
Overview of Northwestern Hawaiian Islands
Combined Land Area: 6 square miles (15.5 sq. km).
Size Comparison: One-tenth of one percent of the total land area of the Hawaiian Islands.
Also called: The Leeward Islands
The eight main Hawaiian Islands comprise 99.9% of the total land area of the State of Hawai‘i.
The Northwestern Hawaiian Islands constitute the other .1%.
[Illustration: Map—Northwestern Hawaiian Islands]
The Northwestern Hawaiian Islands include 124 scattered islets, shoals, and atolls that span over about 1,050 miles (11,690 km) of ocean beginning at Nihoa Island about 150 miles (241 km) to the west-northwest of Kaua‘i. Most of the tiny islets barely rise above the water’s surface.
Some of these islands show evidence of inhabitation by Hawaiians prior to Western contact. After Western contact, the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands were visited by various ships, including whalers, fishermen, coal transport ships, salvage ships, guano miners, and collectors of bird eggs and feathers, and hunters of seals and turtles.
In 2000, President Clinton declared a Northwestern Hawaiian Islands Coral Reef Ecosystem Reserve on 99,500 square nautical miles northwest of the main Hawaiian Islands, including the Hawaiian Islands National Wildlife Refuge (originally designated by Theodore Roosevelt). The Reserve bans oil and gas drilling as well as dumping, and places new restrictions on fishing.
Larger than the states of Florida and Georgia combined, the Reserve contains about 70% of the United States’ coral reefs, and supports at least 7,000 species of fish, birds, marine mammals and other flora and fauna. About half of the species are endemic (unique) to the Hawaiian Islands.
In June of 2004, the Hōkūle‘a Voyaging Canoe sailed from O‘ahu to Kaua‘i’s Hanalei Bay before continuing on to complete a 2,400-mile round trip through the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands to Kure Atoll and back. In June of 2006 the whole region of the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands was declared a National Monument.
[Photograph/Map: Northwestern Hawaiian Islands]
Nihoa Island
Also called: Moku Manu (“Bird Island”**[cmxc]**).
Location: Closest to the main Hawaiian Islands; 150 miles northwest of Kaua‘i.
Nearest to the main Hawaiian Islands is 7.2-million-year-old Nihoa Island, which is 130 miles (209 km) from Ni‘ihau, and 103-million-year-old Necker Island, 310 miles (499 km) from Ni‘ihau. Both Necker and Nihoa were uninhabited when Captain Cook established Western contact in 1778, yet both islands have remains of ancient inhabitation.
[Illustration: Overview of location of Necker and Nihoa]
Nihoa Island formed about 7.2 million years ago. The island is about 1 mile long by ¼-mile wide, with a total land area of about .25 square miles (65 sq. km). The highest elevation on the island is 903 feet (275 m), making it the tallest of the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands.
Dozens of ancient house sites have been discovered on Nihoa as well as extensive prehistoric agricultural terraces, many small stone images (now in the Bishop Museum), stone-walled enclosures, habitation caves, and cultural artifacts including stone bowls, stone adzes, octopus lures, and fishhooks, yet the island was uninhabited at the time of Western contact in 1778.
Nihoa means “Firmly set.”[cmxci] Another name associated with Nihoa is Mauloku, which means “Continuous falling,” referring to a “...leaping place for souls.”[cmxcii] Nihoa is also mentioned in ancient chants.
Nihoa has two endangered native land bird species—the Nihoa finch and the Nihoa millerbird. Three different seabirds—blue-gray noddies, Tristam’s storm-petrels, and Bulwer’s petrels—thrive on Nihoa with nesting colonies that are among the largest found anywhere for these species. An ancient proverb states, “Nihoa i ka moku manu,” (“Nihoa, island of birds”).[cmxciii]
The first Westerner to visit Nihoa was British Captain Douglas on the Iphigenia, who came upon the island on March 19, 1789.
[Photograph: Nihoa]
Necker Island
Also called: Mokumanamana (“Branching islands”**[cmxciv]**).
Location: 460 miles from Honolulu, 310 miles from Ni‘ihau.
Necker Island is 310 miles (499 km) northwest of Ni‘ihau, and has many heiau (sacred places of worship) as well as numerous agricultural terraces, house and temple platforms, and ancient loko i‘a (fishponds). Necker Island formed about 10.3 million years ago, and has a land area of about .07 square miles (.18 sq. km). The highest point on the island is 276 feet.
An extensive complex of heiau (sacred places of worship) on Necker was likely used for cultural ceremonies, but the island shows few signs of permanent habitation sites. Like Nihoa, Necker was uninhabited at the time of Western contact in 1778.
On November 4, 1786 French navigator Count de la Pérouse named Necker Island after the French Minister of Finance, Jacques Necker, who served under Louis XVI. Necker Island’s heiau complex and Nihoa’s agricultural terraces reveal ancient uses of the islands by Hawaiians. Both Necker and Nihoa also support many endemic plant and animal species not found on the eight main Hawaiian Islands.
[Photograph: Necker]
French Frigate Shoals
Also called: Moku pāpapa (“Flat island”)**[cmxcv]**
Location: 560 miles from Honolulu.
French Frigate Shoals consists of 16 sandy islets and a 20-mile-long crescent-shaped reef that makes it the Northwestern Hawaiian Island’s largest atoll, though the total land area of French Frigate Shoals is only about .09 square miles (.23 sq. km). The last visible volcanic remnant at French Frigate Shoals is a rock outcropping known as La Pérouse Pinnacle, located south of the main reefs and reaching to a height of 120 feet (37 m).
On March 6, 1786, French navigator Count de la Pérouse was surveying the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands when he made the first documented Western discovery of French Frigate Shoals. Count de la Pérouse was in command of theBoussole and the Astrolabe when his two 500-ton (454-mton) armed naval frigates almost wrecked on French Frigate Shoals’ reefs, which were then named in honor of this near mishap.
Tern Island at French Frigate Shoals was once 11 acres in size, but seawalls were built and coral was blasted from the reef and used to enlarge the island to 34 acres. Still maintained on Tern is the ½-mile-long white-coral runway, which takes up about half of the island’s 460-foot width. Today Tern Island serves as a biological field station for the Hawaiian Islands National Wildlife Refuge.
French Frigate Shoals is home to most of the Hawaiian Islands’ endemic ‘ilio-holo-i-ka-uaua (Monachus schauinslandi, Hawaiian monk seals), and a main nesting ground of honu (Chelonia mydas, Hawaiian green sea turtles). Just 100 nesting female sea turtles were documented in the 1970’s, but by 1997 the population of nesting females had grown to more than 500.
[Photograph: French Frigate Shoals]
Gardner Pinnacles
Also called: Pūhāhonu (Pūhā means “To breath air, as a sea turtle”; honu means “turtle.”**[cmxcvi]**)
Location: 690 miles from Honolulu.
The Gardner Pinnacles include two rocky islands, the largest of which is just 300 yards long. Together the two islands have a total land area of about .005 square miles (.013 sq km). The highest point on Gardner Pinnacles is about 170 feet (52 m).
Plant life on Gardner Pinnacles is scarce, but the diversity of marine species in the offshore waters is among the highest in the region, with about 600,000 acres of reef habitat supporting at least 27 coral species.
[Photograph: Gardner Pinnacles]
Midway Atoll
Also called: Pihemanu (Pihe means “Crying, shouting, wailing”; manu means “bird.”)
Location: 1,309 miles northwest of Honolulu.
Midway Atoll is the summit of an extinct volcano that originally formed about 28 million years ago where the island of Hawai‘i is today, almost directly over the erupting lava plume of the Hawaiian magmatic hot spot that eventually produced all of the Hawaiian Islands. In the last 28 million years, Midway has been carried northwest by the Pacific Plate to its present location, 1,580 miles northwest of the island of Hawai‘i.
Midway Atoll now consists of three tiny islands: Spit Island, Sand Island, and Eastern Island. The highest point on Midway is 12 feet (3.7 m).
In the late 1800’s, the U.S. Navy used Midway Atoll as a coaling station, and in 1903, Midway was placed under the control of the U.S. Navy. Midway Atoll is perhaps best known as the site of the Battle of Midway, which began on June 4, 1942 when the Japanese naval fleet attempted to secure the remote site as a strategic military outpost.
In the Battle of Midway, American fighter pilots and dive-bombers sank four aircraft carriers of the Japanese fleet along with three destroyers and two cruisers. U.S. forces also lost an aircraft carrier, the Yorktown, as well as one destroyer. On June 5, 1942, U.S. Admiral Nimitz (1885-1966), the commander of the Pacific Fleet, announced the United States victory over the Japanese Fleet at Midway.
The Battle of Midway became a turning point of World War II, securing the atoll as a Navy base location for the duration of the war and providing a strategic port location for submarines and ships. About 1,500 people lived on the 2.5-square-mile atoll during this time. Over the following decades tens of thousands of military personnel and private contractors visited and stayed on Midway, which is now a National Historic Landmark. A monument on the atoll commemorates the Battle of Midway.
Midway is also home to many shipwrecks, including the United States Navy submarine rescue vehicle U.S.S. Macaw. On February 13, 1944, the Macaw ran aground at Midway Atoll while on a mission to retrieve the submarineU.S.S. Flier after bad weather caused the grounding of the ship. A crew manned the ship’s pumps until a March storm finished off the battered vessel.
Midway is home to hundreds of thousands of birds, and the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service began managing Midway Atoll as a wildlife refuge in 1996. Today Midway remains a thriving habitat for many endangered Hawaiian species, including Hawaiian monk seals, green sea turtles, and at least 16 migratory seabird species.
Midway Atoll has the largest population of Laysan albatross found anywhere—about 400,000 nesting pairs. A 20-foot Laysan albatross statue on Midway Atoll is appropriately titled “Gooney Bird,” the species’ nickname due to its theatrical courtship dances and other curious behaviors.
At least 14 other migratory seabird species also inhabit Midway, including about 20,000 black-footed albatross, the second-largest population found anywhere. Occasionally sighted is the endangered short-tailed albatross, known as the golden gooney because of its yellow head and neck feathers, and its pink bill.
[Photographs: Midway Atoll, Battle of Midway; seabirds on Midway.]
Laysan Island
Also called: Kaūo, Moller Island.
Location: 940 miles from Honolulu.
Size: About 1,015 acres of dry land.
Laysan is the second largest of the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands, after Midway’s Sand Island. In the middle of Laysan Island is a large, salty lake about 100 acres in size. The highest spot on Laysan Island is 40 feet.
In the late 1800’s Laysan Island was the site of extensive mining of guano (bird droppings) for use as fertilizer. Egg collectors and those seeking bird feathers for fashion killed hundreds of thousands of birds on Laysan. Sea turtles and monk seals were also taken in large numbers.
Rabbits were released on Laysan in 1903 in an attempt to start a rabbit-canning business, which failed, but the rabbits nevertheless multiplied out of control and killed most of the island’s native plants. This led to the extinction of Laysan’s native land bird species, including an orange honeycreeper similar to the ‘apapane. Coastal sandalwood forest once thrived on Laysan Island along with native palms, but by 1923 just four plant species were left on Laysan.
The island’s two endangered land birds are the Laysan finch and the Laysan duck, or teal. The Laysan duck was once also found on the main Hawaiian Islands but disappeared due to rats, which eat the birds’ eggs. The Laysan duck now exists only on Laysan Island, and the species’ population is about 400, which is significantly up from about 100 in 1993.
[Photograph: Laysan Island]
[Photograph: Northwestern Hawaiian Islands]
[Caption:]
The Northwestern Hawaiian Islands
The eight main Hawaiian Islands comprise 99.9% of the total land area of the State of Hawai‘i. The Northwestern Hawaiian Islands constitute the other .1%.]
Midway Atoll
[Illustration: Midway Atoll]
Midway Atoll is the summit of an extinct volcano 1,580 miles (2,543 km) northwest of the island of Hawai‘i and about 1,309 miles (2,107 km) northwest of Honolulu. Midway Atoll consists of three tiny islands: Spit Island, Sand Island, and Eastern Island.
In 1903, President Theodore Roosevelt designated the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands as a seabird refuge, but Midway was put under the control of the U.S. Navy. In 1996, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service began managing Midway Atoll as a wildlife refuge, taking over from the United States Navy.
When Midway was initially formed about 28 million years ago, it was located where the island of Hawai‘i is today, almost directly over the erupting lava plume of the Hawaiian magmatic hot spot that produced all of the Hawaiian Islands.
In the last 28 million years, Midway has been carried northwest by the Pacific Plate to its present location. In comparison, the island of Kaua‘i is only about five million years old, enough time to have been carried about 400 miles (643 km) northwest of the magmatic hot spot. In comparison, O‘ahu is about 220 miles (354 km) from the magmatic hot spot.
The U.S. Navy used Midway as a coaling station in the late 1800s, and PanAm China Clippers airplanes also stopped at Midway. In 1906, the wooden bark Carrollton became shipwrecked at Midway Atoll. The ship had been used to transport coal from Australia to San Francisco.
The atoll is best known, however, as the site of the Battle of Midway, which began on June 4, 1942, when the Japanese naval fleet attempted to secure Midway Atoll. American fighter pilots and dive-bombers sank four carriers of the Japanese fleet. On June 5, 1942, U.S. Admiral Nimitz (1885-1966), the commander of the Pacific Fleet, announced the victory over the Japanese Fleet at Midway.
[Photograph: Battle of Midway]
The Battle of Midway became a turning point of World War II, securing the atoll as a strategic Navy base location for the duration of the war, and also providing a strategic port location for submarines and ships. About 1,500 people lived on the 2.5 square mile (6.5 sq. km) atoll during this time, and over the decades tens of thousands of military personnel and private contractors visited and stayed on Midway Atoll. A monument commemorates the Battle of Midway.
On February 13, 1944, the United States Navy submarine rescue vehicle U.S.S. Macaw ran aground at Midway Atoll. It had been on a mission to retrieve the submarine U.S.S. Flier when bad weather caused the grounding of the ship. A crew manned the ship’s pumps until a March storm finished off the ship.
Today Midway is home to many endangered Hawaiian species, including monk seals (Monachus schauinslandi;Hawaiian name: ‘Ilio-holo-i-ka-uaua), green sea turtles (Chelonia mydas; Hawaiian name: Honu), and various native bird species. In the year 2000, there were 14 documented monk seal births on Midway, and at least 12 more monk seal births at Midway Atoll in 2001.
Midway Atoll has the largest population of Laysan albatross (Diomedea immutabilis; Hawaiian name: mōlī) foundanywhere, including nearly 400,000 nesting pairs. The Laysan albatross is also known as the “gooney bird” due to its courtship dances and other behaviors. Also found on Midway Atoll is a 20-foot (6-m) Laysan albatross statue appropriately titled “Gooney Bird.”
Midway is also home to about 20,000 black-footed albatross (Diomedea nigripes) and there are occasional sightings of the rarely seen short-tailed albatross (Diomedea albatrus), which is federally listed as an endangered species. The short-tailed albatross is also known as the golden gooney because of its yellow head and neck feathers and its pink bill. At least 14 other migratory seabird species also inhabit Midway.
Chapter 2 Source Notes
All Hawaiian words in this text, the Hawaiian Encyclopedia, include proper diacritical marks, including the ‘okina (hamzah, or glottal stop) and kahakō (macron), except when the word is cited directly as part of a title or in a direct quote, in which case the words are spelled as originally published.
See Appendix 1: Note On Sources for more information about diacritical marks; objectivity; Hawaiian word spellings and meanings; scientific, cultural, and historic information; new research and discoveries; verifying dates and details of historic events; and Hawaiian sovereignty and other native issues.
[Note: This list is still in progress and being updated.]
Adams, Wanda A. Explore scenic and historic North Kohala. The Honolulu Advertiser, 9/08/2002.
Adams, Wanda A. Hike through history at Pololū Valley: Kohala Ditch trail also offers native wildlife, scenic views. The Honolulu Advertiser, 9/08/2002.
Aguiar, Eloise. Big turquoise waves create perfect ‘Eddie.’ The Honolulu Advertiser, 1/08/2002.
Aikin, Ross R. Kilauea Point Lighthouse: The Landfall Beacon on the Orient Run. Kilauea Point Natural History Association. Lihue: Island Printers, 1988.
Akana-Gooch, Keiko Kiele. Relatives recall his humble personality. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 8/25/2002.
Akana-Gooch, Keiko Kiele. Volunteers and experts tackle extensive Hokule‘a repairs. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 8/25/2002.
Ali‘iolani Hale. Internet site: http://www.planet-hawaii.com/jhchawaii/ahale.html, 8/18/2002.
All About Hawaii (1948-1949): Thrum’s Hawaiian Annual and Standard Guide. Publications Division: Honolulu Star-Bulletin, Honolulu, Hawaii, 1949.
A look at Midway Atoll today. The Garden Island, 6/06/2002.
Ariyoshi, Rita. The National Geographic Traveler: Hawaii. Washington, D.C.: National Geographic Society, 2000.
Arthur, Sheila Heathcoate. Kauaians help to restore lonely Kaho‘olawe. The Garden Island, 9/19/1998.
Atlas of Hawai‘i: Second Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1983.
Atlas of Hawai‘i: Third Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998.
A Trip Through Hawaii’s Military History: Exploring the U.S. Army Museum of Hawaii. Edited by Barbara Mills. Hawaii Army Museum Society, 2000.
Bakutis, Bunky. Diver gets close look at ‘Jaws’ off Maili: Great whites rare in Hawaii. The Honolulu Advertiser, 8/15/1999.
Beamish, Rita. Scientists, environmentalists, fishermen clash over NW Hawaiian Islands’ future. The Garden Island, 5/27/2002.
Beletsky, Les. Hawaii: The Ecotravellers’ Wildlife Guide. London: Academic Press, 2000.
Bishop Museum—About the Museum. Internet site: http://www.bishopmuseum.org/about.html, 7/23/2002.
Bishop Museum—About the Museum: Contact Information. Internet site: http://www.bishopmuseum.org/contact.html, 7/23/2002.
Bishop Museum—About the Museum: Our Mission. Internet site: http://www.bishopmuseum.org/mission.html, 7/23/2002.
Bishop Museum—Amy B. H. Greenwell Ethnobotanical Garden. Internet site: http://bishopmuseum.org/greenwell/index.html, 7/28/2002.
Bishop Museum—Archives: About the photo collection. Internet site:
http://www.bishopmuseum.org/research/cultstud/libarch/archphoto.html, 8/07/2002.
Bishop Museum—Archives: The Mele Collection. Internet site:http://www.bishopmuseum.org/research/cultstud/libarch/archmele.html, 8/07/2002.
Bishop Museum—Archives: Manuscript Collection. Internet site:http://www.bishopmuseum.org/research/cultstud/libarch/archmanu.html, 8/07/2002.
Bishop Museum—Archives: Special Collections. Internet site:http://www.bishopmuseum.org/research/cultstud/libarch/archother.html, 8/07/2002.
Bishop Museum—Falls of Clyde. Informational brochure distributed at Hawai‘i Maritime Center.
Bishop Museum: Hawaiian and Pacific Studies. Internet site: http://bishopmuseum.org/research/cultstud/handps.html, 7/28/2002.
Bishop Museum—Hawai‘i Maritime Center: Home of the Hokule‘a and Falls of Clyde. Internet site: http://bishopmuseum.org/hmc/, 7/28/2002.
Bishop Museum: Hawaii’s Extinct Species. Internet site: http://hbs.bishopmuseum.org/endangered/extinct.html, 7/28/2002.
Bishop Museum—Hawaii’s Extinct Species: Insects. Internet site: http://hbs.bishopmuseum.org/endangered/ext-insects.html, 7/28/2002.
Bishop Museum—Hawaii’s Extinct Species: Plants. Internet site: http://hbs.bishopmuseum.org/endangered/ext-plants.html, 7/28/2002.
Bishop Museum—Hawaii’s Extinct Species: Snails. Internet site: http://hbs.bishopmuseum.org/endangered/ext-snails.html, 7/28/2002.
Bishop Museum: History. Internet site: http://www.bishopmuseum.org/history.html, 7/28/2002.
Bishop Museum—Hokule‘a: Polynesian Voyaging Canoe- Retracing the paths of ancient Polynesia. Internet site: http://www.bishopmuseum.org/hmc/hokulea.html, 8/07/2002.
Bishop Museum: Museum Guide & Map. Informational brochure, distributed at Bishop Museum, 8/15/2002.
Bishop Museum—Library and Archives: The history of Hawaii and the Pacific in words and images. Internet site:http://www.bishopmuseum.org/research/cultstud/libarch/, 8/07/2002.
Bishop Museum: Message from the President. Internet site: http://www.bishopmuseum.org/message.html, 7/23/2002.
Bishop Museum: Native plant species in Hawai‘i. Internet site: http://www.bishopmuseum.org/greenwell/gwplants.html, 8/07/2002.
Bishop Museum: Pacific Center for Molecular Biodiversity. Internet site: http://bishopmuseum.org/research/pcmb/pcmb.html, 7/28/2002.
Bishop Museum: Past Exhibits. Internet site: http://www.bishopmuseum.org/exhibits/past.html, 8/07/2002.
Bishop Museum: Planetarium Programs: Fun in Space. Internet site: http://www.bishopmuseum.org/education/planetarium.html, 8/07/2002.
Bishop Museum Press. Internet site: http://www.bishopmuseum.org/press/, 7/28/2002.
Bishop Museum—The Falls of Clyde: A one-of-a-kind ship. Internet site: http://www.bishopmuseum.org/hmc/fallsofclyde.html, 8/07/2002.
Bishop Museum—The Kona Field System. Internet site: http://www.bishopmuseum.org/greenwell/kona.html, 8/07/2002.
Bishop Museum—The role of the Hawaii Biological Survey. Internet site: http://hbs.bishopmuseum.org/hbs3.html.
Bishop Museum: Upcoming Traveling Exhibits. Internet site: http://www.bishopmuseum.org/exhibits/upcoming.html, 8/07/2002.
Bishop Museum: World famous Bishop Museum now in Waikīkī. Informational brochure distributed by Bishop Museum, August, 2002.
Blakeman, Karen. Sanctuary system moves forward: ‘This is going to strangle us, slowly,’ bottom fisherman says of restrictions. The Honolulu Advertiser, 3/16/2002.
Blay, Chuck, and Siemers, Robert. Kauai’s Geologic History: A Simplified Guide. Kaua‘i: TEOK Investigations, 1998.
Blowhole has history of danger. The Honolulu Advertiser, 7/01/2002.
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[50] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[51] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[52] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[53] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[54] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[55] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[56] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[57] p. 266, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 2440.
[58] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[59] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[60] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[61] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[62] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[63] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[64] p. 182. Seiden, Allan. Hawai‘i: The Royal Legacy. Honolulu: Mutual Publishing, 1992.
[65] George Wilcox had studied at Yale College’s Sheffield Scientific School, where he earned an engineering degree that also helped him plan and build ditches to irrigate his Grove Farm Plantation.
[66] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[67] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[68] Interpretive sign at heiau site, sponsored by Nā Kahu Hikina A Ka Lā, an all volunteer curator group preserving Wailua sites.
[69] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[70] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[71] Interpretive sign at heiau site, sponsored by Nā Kahu Hikina A Ka Lā, an all volunteer curator group preserving Wailua sites.
[72] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[73] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[74] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1986.
[75] Interpretive sign at heiau site, sponsored by Nā Kahu Hikina A Ka Lā, an all volunteer curator group preserving Wailua sites.
[76] Interpretive sign at heiau site, sponsored by Nā Kahu Hikina A Ka Lā, an all volunteer curator group preserving Wailua sites.
[77] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[78] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[79] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[80] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[81] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1986.
[82] Hurricane ‘Iniki struck Kaua‘i on September 11, 1992, causing more than $3 billion in property damage on Kaua‘i, including damage to over 70% of the island’s homes, and completely destroying 1,421 homes. (See Hurricanes and Tsunamis, Chapter 5.)
[83] p. 27, Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu: Hawai‘i, 2002.
[84] Hurricane ‘Iniki struck Kaua‘i on September 11, 1992, causing more than $3 billion in property damage on Kaua‘i, including damage to over 70% of the island’s homes, and completely destroying 1,421 homes. (See Hurricanes and Tsunamis, Chapter 5.)
[85] A saying is noted: “a Lohi‘au-ipo i Hā‘ena lā, ‘ena‘ena ke aloha ke hiki mai,” which translates to “and Lohi‘au-ipo at Red-hot, hot the love that comes”, p. 34, Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[86] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[87] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[88] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974; also called Waiokapala‘e.
[89] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[90] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[91] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[92] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[93] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[94] p. 94, Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[95] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[96] Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998.
[97] Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998.
[98] Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998.
[99] Translation in Place Names of Hawaii (Pukui and Elbert) is given for place name of Kalalau on island of Hawai‘i. No mention is made of site on Kaua‘i mentioned here.
[100] Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998.
[101] Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998.
[102] Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998.
[103] Blay, Chuck, and Siemers, Robert. Kauai’s Geologic History: A Simplified Guide. Teok Investigations, 2004.
[104] Frazier, Frances N. The True Story of Kaluaikoolau as Told by his Wife, Piilani. Kaua‘i Historical Society, 2001.
[105] p. 110, Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[106] These dates are estimates; see Timeline for a more complete description of dates of arrival.
[108] At least some of the other walls of the fort were completed after Schäffer’s departure.
[110] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[111] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[112] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[113] p. 204, Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[114] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised and Expanded Edition. University of Hawaii Press, Honolulu, 1974.
[115] Soboleski, Hank. History makers of Kaua‘i: Queen Emma. The Garden Island, 3/17/2002.
[116] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[117] Soboleski, Hank. History makers of Kaua‘i: Queen Emma. The Garden Island, 3/17/2002.
[118] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[119] Soboleski, Hank. History makers of Kaua‘i: Queen Emma. The Garden Island, 3/17/2002.
[120] Current research shows that the first humans to reach Hawai‘i most likely came from the Marquesas Islands, about 2,500 miles to the southeast of Hawai‘i. The Marquesas are part of the South Pacific island group known as French Polynesia, an archipelago that includes 130 islands divided into five groups: the Gambier Islands, the Australs, the Tuamotus, the Society Islands, and the Marquesas.
[121] p. 110, Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[122] The destruction of Menehune Ditch was caused by the creation of Menehune Road as well as the use of the ditch’s rocks for building projects, including Waimea’s Protestant church.
[123] These dates are estimates.
[124] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[125] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[126] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[127] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[128] p. 133, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 1225.
[129] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[130] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. Also: “Live Offering”
[131] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[132] p. 9, Wichman, Frederick B. Nā Pua Ali‘i O Kaua‘i: Ruling Chiefs of Kaua‘i. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 2003.
[133] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1986.
[134] p. 29, Wichman, Frederick B. Nā Pua Ali‘i O Kaua‘i: Ruling Chiefs of Kaua‘i. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 2003.
[135] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[136] p. 59, Davies, Theo. An Account of the First Visit to the Island of Kauai in September 1860. Transcription from the original journal written in longhand on board S. S. “Ariel”, on the Atlantic, 22nd August, 1862.
[137] p. 10, Wichman, Frederick B. Nā Pua Ali‘i O Kaua‘i: Ruling Chiefs of Kaua‘i. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 2003.
[138] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[139] The grandfather of King Kaumuali‘i was Kekaulike, who was also the grandfather of King Kamehameha I. Kaumuali‘i’s granddaughter was Queen Kapi‘olani, the wife of King Kalākaua.
[140] p. 58, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984.
[141] p. 48, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984.
[142] As the oldest son of Kamakahelei, Keawe was the half-brother of Kaumuali‘i.
[143] p. 449, Desha, Stephen L., translated by Frazier, Frances N. Kamehameha and his Warrior Kekūhaupi‘o. Honolulu: Kamehameha Schools Press, 2000.
[144] p. 62, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984.
[145] pp. 61-62, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984.
[146] Soboleski, Hank. History makers of Kaua‘i: Hawaiian queen Deborah Kapule. The Garden Island, 12/17/2000.
[147] p. 112, 113, Wichman, Frederick B. Nā Pua Ali‘i O Kaua‘i: Ruling Chiefs of Kaua‘i. Honolulu: University ofHawai‘i Press, 2003.
[148] p. 113, Wichman, Frederick B. Nā Pua Ali‘i O Kaua‘i: Ruling Chiefs of Kaua‘i. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 2003.
[149] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[150] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[151] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[152] p. 182. Seiden, Allan. Hawai‘i: The Royal Legacy. Honolulu: Mutual Publishing, 1992.
[153] Prince Albert Edward Kauikeaouli Leiopapa o Kamehameha.
[154] Soboleski, Hank. History makers of Kaua‘i: Queen Emma. The Garden Island, 3/17/2002.
[155] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[156] Soboleski, Hank. History makers of Kaua‘i: Queen Emma. The Garden Island, 3/17/2002.
[157] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[158] Soboleski, Hank. History makers of Kaua‘i: Queen Emma. The Garden Island, 3/17/2002.
[159] p. 55, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984.
[160] For unknown reasons, Schäffer spelled the name “Elisabeth,” a spelling that persists today on a sign at the site.
[161] At least some of the other walls of the fort were completed after Schäffer’s departure.
[162] The Johnsons’ home was built in 1838 adjacent to the Wai‘oli Mission House. It was later moved and became known as the Hanalei Hotel.
[163] During the 1979 excavation, researchers discovered ‘ili‘ili floor paving (layered pebbles) on the southern half of the structure.
[164] p. 191, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934.
[165] A Brief History of the Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church. Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church Bulletin, 2003.
[166] p. 9. Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987.
[167] Hart Wood (1880-1957) came to Hawai‘i in 1919 as chief designer for prominent Hawai‘i architect, C. W. Dickey, and eventually designed many prominent buildings and homes in Honolulu and other locations.
[168] Hurricane ‘Iniki struck Kaua‘i on September 11, 1992, causing more than $3 billion in property damage on Kaua‘i, including damage to more than 70% of the island’s homes, and completely destroying 1,421 homes.
[169] Kilohana Plantation Estates, 808-245-5608, 3-2087 Kaumuali‘i Highway, Līhu‘e; located between Kukui Grove Shopping Center and Kaua‘i Community College, 1.5 miles west of Līhu‘e on mauka side (mountain) side of Kaumuali‘i Highway. Open 9:30-9:30, Mon-Sat.; 9:30-5, Sun. Clydesdales horse-drawn carriage tour: 11-6:00, Mon.-Sat: 11-5 Sun. Sugarcane history tour: 246-9529; Historic high tea: Mon. and Sat. at 2 p.m. by reservation; Lū‘au: Tues, Thurs, 5 p.m.; [email protected].
[170] p. 4, Recollecting the Work of Rice Farmers. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[171] p. 4, Recollecting the Work of Rice Farmers. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[172] p. 3, The Rice Farms and Mills in the Landscape. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[173] Charlton served as British Consul for Hawai‘i in Honolulu from 1825 to 1846.
[174] Princeville Ranch. p. 2, Na Leo ‘O Princeville. Princeville Corporation & Princeville Utilities Company, Inc., Summer, 2003.
[175] p. 270, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[176] p. 275, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[177] Damon 1931:335.
[178] Cook Chris. The Kaua‘i Movie Book: Films made on the Garden Island. Honolulu: Mutual Publishing, 1996.
[179] p. 282, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[180] p. 22, Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu, Hawai‘i: Mutual Publishing, 2002.
[181] p. 281, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. Note: Other accounts say the ride was about 40 miles in 4½ hours.
[182] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[183] According to Dickey (1934): “the name HANALEI means wreath making. Two suggestions for the origin have been made, one that the mountains round about are like a wreath; another that its showers are constantly making rainbow wreaths.” p. 2, Dickey, Lyle A. Hanalei Place Names. Read at the meeting of the Kauai Historical Society, Oct. 22, 1934. On file at Kaua‘i Historical Society.
[184] p. 108, Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998.
[185] Bates 1854: 201-4, 206.
[186] The population of Halele‘a went from 3,107 to 1,641 from 1835 to 1860. Page 49, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987.
[187] Population estimates of the Hawaiian Islands at the time of Western contact range from less than 300,000 to more than 700,000.
[188] p. 54, Davies, Theo. An Account of the First Visit to the Island of Kauai in September 1860. Transcription from the original journal written in longhand on board S. S. “Ariel”, on the Atlantic, 22nd August, 1862.
[190] See Hanalei in Ancient Times, Chapter 1.
[191] [Hanalei Hawaii Resource Guide. Internet site: http://www.pe.net/~rksnow/hiscountyhanalei.htm, 12/27/2002.]
[192] p. 267, Hazlett, Richard W. and Hyndman, Donald W. Roadside Geology of Hawai‘i. Missoula, Montana: Mountain Press Publishing Company, 1996.
[193] See Timeline: c.200-500 A.D.
[194] See Timeline: c.4,000 B.C.
[195] See Timeline.
[196] p. 2, Pre-Contact Hanalei. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990.
[197] p. 6, Examples of Hanalei Land Commission Awards. Credit: Carol Silva, Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends ofKauai, 1990.
[198] Wall, W. A. Map of Hanalei. Map and Survey, 1893. Traced from Government Survey Map No. 1833, August, 1913
[199] p. 9, Polk-Husted Directory of Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii, 1914. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[200] p. iv, Archaeological Investigations of Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, Hanalei, Island of Kaua‘i, by Lisa Shapiro, M.A., and William A. Shapiro, M.A., May, 1995.
[201] p. 33, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 263.
[202] Schnack 1915: 198
[203] p. 1, Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998.
[204] p. 106, Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998.
[205] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[206] Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998. [Halele‘a is also translated as “pleasure house.” [p. 3, Dickey, Lyle A. Hanalei Place Names. Read at the meeting of the Kauai Historical Society, Oct. 22, 1934. On file at Kaua‘i Historical Society.]
[207] p. 266, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 2441.
[208] Name meanings come from: Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Place Names ofHawaii: Revised and Expanded Edition. University of Hawaii Press, Honolulu, 1974. Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998; and Dickey, Lyle A. Hanalei Place Names.
[209] Dickey, Lyle A. Hanalei Place Names. Read at the meeting of the Kauai Historical Society, Oct. 22, 1934. On file at Kaua‘i Historical Society.
[210] Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998.
[211] Dickey, Lyle A. Hanalei Place Names. Read at the meeting of the Kauai Historical Society, Oct. 22, 1934. On file at Kaua‘i Historical Society.
[212] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[213] Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998.
[214] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[215] Dickey, Lyle A. Hanalei Place Names. Read at the meeting of the Kauai Historical Society, Oct. 22, 1934. On file at Kaua‘i Historical Society.
[216] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised and Expanded Edition. University of Hawaii Press, Honolulu, 1974.
[217] Dickey, Lyle A. Hanalei Place Names. Read at the meeting of the Kauai Historical Society, Oct. 22, 1934. On file at Kaua‘i Historical Society. Another meaning is “To request to the gods in prayer.” Wichman also suggests other means of Waipā: “‘touched water,’ or Wai-pa‘a, ‘dammed-up water,’...the translation ‘dammed-up water’ refers to the frequent building up of a sand bar that prevents the stream from flowing directly into the ocean,” P. 114, Wichman, Frederick B.Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998.
[218] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised and Expanded Edition. University of Hawaii Press, Honolulu, 1974.
[219] p. 3, Dickey, Lyle A. Hanalei Place Names. Read at the meeting of the Kauai Historical Society, Oct. 22, 1934. On file at Kaua‘i Historical Society.
[220] Frederick B. Wichman wrote: “According to Lyle A. Dickey the name is pronounced as one word, Lumahai, so named for a medicinal plant and also a string figure (a cat’s cradle)”, p. 116, Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998.
[221] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[222] Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998. Also, “Fierce water.” Dickey, Lyle A. Hanalei Place Names. Read at the meeting of the Kauai Historical Society, Oct. 22, 1934. On file at Kaua‘i Historical Society. Dickey adds, “as the WAINIHA stream often is when in flood.” p. 3, Dickey, Lyle A. Hanalei Place Names. Read at the meeting of the Kauai Historical Society, Oct. 22, 1934. On file at Kaua‘i Historical Society.
[223] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974. A saying is noted: “a Lohi‘au-ipo i Hā‘ena lā, ‘ena‘ena ke aloha ke hiki mai,” which translates to “and Lohi‘au-ipo at Red-hot, hot the love that comes.” [P. 34, Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University ofHawaii Press, 1974.
[224] pp. 322-323, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That IslandGarden. Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931.
[225] p. 110, Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998.
[226] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised and Expanded Edition. University of Hawaii Press, Honolulu, 1974.
[227] Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998.
[228] Hīhīmanu means “Great Ray Fish (from its shape),” or “Various sting rays (Dasyatidae) and eagle rays (Actobatus narinari).” [Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1986.] Manta rays may have a wingspan of up to 22 feet.
[229] p. 109, Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998.
[230] p. 239, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[231] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised and Expanded Edition. University of Hawaii Press, Honolulu, 1974
[232] Island Folklore, Kauai Magazine, Fall, 1995.
[233] Island Folklore, Kauai Magazine, Fall, 1995.
[234] p. 113, Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998
[235] p. 113, Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998. citing Akina’s “Story of the Menehune People.”
[236] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised and Expanded Edition. University of Hawaii Press, Honolulu, 1974.
[237] Moffat, Riley M., and Fitzpatrick, Gary L. Surveying the Māhele. Honolulu: Editions Limited, 1995.
[238] p. 104, Whitney, Henry M. The Hawaiian Guide Book for Travelers. 1875. Reprint. Rutland, Vt.: Tuttle, 1970.
[240] Calhoun, R. Scott, and Fletcher, Charles H. Measured and predicted sediment yield from a subtropical, heavy rainfall, steep-sided river basin: Hanalei, Kauai, Hawaiian Islands. Geomorphology 30 (1999) 213-226.
[241] p. 172, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 1590.
[242] p. 108, Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998.
[243] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[244] p. 105, Moffat, Riley M., and Fitzpatrick, Gary L. Surveying the Māhele. Honolulu: Editions Limited, 1995.
[245] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised and Expanded Edition. University of Hawaii Press, Honolulu, 1974
[246] p. 138, Korn, Alfons L. The Victorian Visitors; An Account of the Hawaiian Kingdom, 1861-1866. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1958.
[247] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised and Expanded Edition. University of Hawaii Press, Honolulu, 1974.
[248] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1986. Wai means “water,” or when it is used in a place name, wai means “river” or “stream.” Pā is defined as “to touch, get, contact, reach, gain control of, hit, experience.”
[249] p. 114, Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998.
[250] Hanalei Place Names (1934), gave the meaning of “Waipa” as “walled off water -- perhaps because of the constant sand bar at the mouth of the WAIPA STREAM.” Page 3, Dickey, Lyle A. Hanalei Place Names. Read at the meeting of the Kauai Historical Society, Oct. 22, 1934. On file at Kaua‘i Historical Society.
[251] Dark-rumped petrels, Pterodroma phaeopygia sandwichensis.
[252] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1986.
[253] p. 3, Dickey, Lyle A. Hanalei Place Names. Read at the meeting of the Kauai Historical Society, Oct. 22, 1934. On file at Kaua‘i Historical Society.
[254] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised and Expanded Edition. University of Hawaii Press, Honolulu, 1974.
[255] Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998.
[256] p. 115, Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998, citing Rice, Hawaiian Legends, pp. 47-48.
[257] The authors noted, “Usually, dryland terraces are assembled from locally derived and unaltered rock. These are two sites that exhibit an otherwise undocumented construction technique for the area and may represent agricultural, occupational and tool manufacturing processes...Habitation attributes include platforms, terraces, enclosures and walls...settlement in the surrounding hillsides involved the placement of habitation features upslope from and overlooking agricultural terraces.” p. 80, Archaeological Investigations of Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, Hanalei, Island of Kaua‘i, by Lisa Shapiro, M.A., and William A. Shapiro, M.A., May, 1995.
[258] p. 323, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931.
[259] p. 62, Archaeological Investigations of Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, Hanalei, Island of Kaua‘i, by Lisa Shapiro, M.A., and William A. Shapiro, M.A., May, 1995.
[260] p. 65, Archaeological Investigations of Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, Hanalei, Island of Kaua‘i, by Lisa Shapiro, M.A., and William A. Shapiro, M.A., May, 1995.
[261] The China Ditch intake on the Hanalei River is about 3.7 miles from the ocean.
[262] pp. 67-68, Archaeological Investigations of Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, Hanalei, Island of Kaua‘i, by Lisa Shapiro, M.A., and William A. Shapiro, M.A., May, 1995.
[263] p.68, Archaeological Investigations of Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, Hanalei, Island of Kaua‘i, by Lisa Shapiro, M.A., and William A. Shapiro, M.A., May, 1995.
[264] P. 68, Archaeological Investigations of Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, Hanalei, Island of Kaua‘i, by Lisa Shapiro, M.A., and William A. Shapiro, M.A., May, 1995.
[265] “This modern diversion connects with the historic ditch south of the tunnel systems and the open ditch continues north for approximately 1,000 m through the tunnel systems and around the bend of the Hanalei River in the east side of the valley. Two historic artifact concentrations are recorded at different locations along the ditch.” Archaeological Investigations of Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, Hanalei, Island of Kaua‘i, by Lisa Shapiro, M.A., and William A. Shapiro, M.A., May, 1995.
[266] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[267] p. 104, Whitney, Henry M. The Hawaiian Guide Book for Travelers. 1875. Reprint. Rutland, Vt.: Tuttle, 1970.
[268] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1986. According to legend, “not so kind were the winds ‘Ō-lau-niu-o-Pu‘upoa, ‘coconut-leaf-piercing wind of Pu‘upoa,’ and Pae-hahi-o-ka-iholena, ‘Row of trampled iholena banana trees.’” P. 109, Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998, citing: Winds of Kauai, translated by Mary Kawena Pūku‘i (Ka Na‘i Aupuni, June 18-20, 1906).
[269] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised and Expanded Edition. University of Hawaii Press, Honolulu, 1974.
[270] pp. 115-116, Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University ofHawai‘i Press, 1998, citing Knudsen, Teller of Hawaiian Tales.
[271] p. 60, Narrative of a Voyage Round the World, Performed in Her Majesty’s Ship Sulphur, During the Years 1836-1842, Including Details of the Naval Operations in China, From Dec. 1840, to Nov. 1841. Published under the Authority of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, by Captain Sir Edward Belcher, Commander of the Expedition, Volume I,London: Henry Colburn, Publisher, Great Marlborough Street, 1843.
[272] p. 61, Narrative of a Voyage Round the World, Performed in Her Majesty’s Ship Sulphur, During the Years 1836-1842, Including Details of the Naval Operations in China, From Dec. 1840, to Nov. 1841. Published under the Authority of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, by Captain Sir Edward Belcher, Commander of the Expedition, Volume I,London: Henry Colburn, Publisher, Great Marlborough Street, 1843.
[273] p. 281, Narrative of a Voyage Round the World, Performed in Her Majesty’s Ship Sulphur, During the Years 1836-1842, Including Details of the Naval Operations in China, From Dec. 1840, to Nov. 1841. Published under the Authority of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, by Captain Sir Edward Belcher, Commander of the Expedition, Volume I, London: Henry Colburn, Publisher, Great Marlborough Street, 1843.
[274] p. 61, Narrative of a Voyage Round the World, Performed in Her Majesty’s Ship Sulphur, During the Years 1836-1842, Including Details of the Naval Operations in China, From Dec. 1840, to Nov. 1841. Published under the Authority of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, by Captain Sir Edward Belcher, Commander of the Expedition, Volume I,London: Henry Colburn, Publisher, Great Marlborough Street, 1843.
[275] p. 239, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[276] Polynesian settlement of the Hawaiian Islands is thought to have occurred sometime between 200 and 700 A.D. (SeeTimeline c.200-500 A.D.)
[277] The estimated date of Polynesians first reaching the Hawaiian Islands is c.200-700 A.D.
[278] Population estimates of the Hawaiian Islands at the time of Western contact range from less than 300,000 to more than 700,000.
[279] Ka‘ie‘iewaho means “Outer Ka‘ie‘ie,” in reference to the ‘ie‘ie vine. Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of HawaiiPress, 1974.
[280] During Kamehameha’s 1796 attempt to invade Kaua‘i, a few advance troops apparently made it to Kaua‘i, but were killed when they reached shore.
[281] p. 62, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984.
[282] p. 61-62, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984.
[283] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[284] p. 4, Westerners Arrive. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990.
[285] p. 128, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984.
[286] p. 240, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[287] p. 184, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934.
[288] p. 2, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843). Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934. Mary C. Alexander is the daughter of William DeWitt Alexander.
[289] p. 2, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843). Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934.
[290] p. 2, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843). Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934.
[291] p. 183, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934.
[292] p. 190, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934.
[293] p. 325, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931. The area was also referred to as Betelema by Reverend Johnson in 1853.
[294] p. 181, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934.
[295] Riznik, Barnes. Digging Down under Wai‘oli Mission Hall. Historic Hawai‘i News, 1980; and Riznik, Barnes.Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987.
[296] Riznik, Barnes. Digging Down under Wai‘oli Mission Hall. Historic Hawai‘i News, 1980; and Riznik, Barnes.Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987.
[297] p. 2240, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[298] p. 183, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934.
[299] p. 15, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987.
[300] p. 190, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934.
[301] pp. 183-184, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii.Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934.
[302] p. 184, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934.
[303] p. 184, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934.
[304] p. 182, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934.
[305] p. 191, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934.
[306] The population estimate decreased to 1,641 by 1860. P. 5, Westerners Arrive. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990.
[307] p. 12, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843).Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934.
[308] p. 325, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931.
[309] p. 184, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934.
[310] p. 2, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843). Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934.
[311] p. 195, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934.
[312] p. 195, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934.
[313] p. 190, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934.
[314] p. 190, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934.
[315] p. 8, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987.
[316] p. 328, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931.
[317] p. 188, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934.
[318] p. 191, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934.
[319] p. 12, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843).Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934.
[320] p. 12, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987.
[321] p. 43, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987.
[322] p. 3, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843). Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934.
[323] p. 3, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843). Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934.
[324] p. 10, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843).Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934.
[325] p. 11, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843).Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934.
[326] p. 242, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[327] p. 196, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934.
[328] p. 199, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934.
[329] p. 245, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[330] p. 245, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[331] p. 245, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[332] pp. 243, 244, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[333] pp. 12-13, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843).Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934.
[334] pp. 12-13, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843).Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934.
[335] p. 329, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931.
[336] p. 329, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931.
[337] p. 14, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843).Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934.
[338] p. 199, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934.
[339] p. 197, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii. Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934.
[340] p. 12, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843).Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934.
[341] p. 12, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843).Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934.
[342] p. 15, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843).Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934.
[343] p. 10, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987.
[344] p. 15, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843).Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934.
[345] Lease—Kamehameha III, To William P. Alexander, October 12, 1841 (Translation). On file at Grove Farm Museum, Līhu‘e, Kaua‘i.
[346] p. 9, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843). Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934.
[347] p. 247, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[348] p. 19, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843).Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934.
[349] p. 247, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[350] p. 247, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[351] Waioli Mission District—National Register of Historic Places: Inventory—Nomination Form. United States Department of the Interior; National Park Service. Also: Waioli Church—National Register of Historic Places: Statement of Architectural and Historical Significance. United States Department of the Interior; National Park Service. Also: A Brief History of the Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church. Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church Bulletin, 2003.
[352] p. 9. Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987.
[353] Waioli Church—National Register of Historic Places: Statement of Architectural and Historical Significance, United States Department of the Interior; National Park Service, citing Alexander, James M.—Mission Life in Hawaii. Memoir of Rev. William P. Alexander. Pacific Press Publishing Co., 1888.
[354] p. 248, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[355] Historic Waioli Church. Waioli Hui‘ia United Church of Christ, brochure.
[356] p. 19, Alexander, Mary C. Notes of the Early Life of William Patterson and Mary Ann Alexander (1834-1843).Kaua‘i Historical Society, 10/22/1934.
[357] p. 38, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987.
[358] p. 278, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[359] pp. 43-44, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987.
[360] p. 150, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984.
[361] p. 249, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[362] p. 276, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917; citing p. 169, Thrum’s Annual, 1903.
[363] p. 258, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[364] p. 259, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[365] p. 262, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[366] p. 261, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[367] p. 271, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[368] p. 5, Ethel Damon’s Interviews with G. N. Wilcox, May 29, 1930. On file at Grove Farm, Kaua‘i.
[369] p. 6, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917.
[370] p. 235, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[371] p. 235, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[372] p. 35, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987.
[373] p. 263, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[374] p. 12, Ethel Damon’s Interviews with G. N. Wilcox, Feb. 14, 1921. On file at Grove Farm, Kaua‘i.
[375] p. 1, Report of Waioli Select School for 1848. On file at Grove Farm, Kaua‘i.
[376] p. 213, Alexander, William DeWitt. Private Journal of a Tour of Kauai (Written by William DeWitt Alexander, when a boy of sixteen, in 1849). Read to the Kauai Historical Society, May 8, 1933.
[377] p. 271, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[378] p. 32, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987.
[379] p. 49, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987.
[380] pp. 4-5, Ethel Damon’s Interviews with G. N. Wilcox, May 29, 1930. On file at Grove Farm, Kaua‘i. George Norton Wilcox was the son of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, who served as missionaries at Wai‘oli from 1846 to 1869.
[381] Report of the Committee on the Support of Mr. Wilcox and the Waioli Select School, 1861. On file at Grove Farm, Kaua‘i.
[382] The Hanalei English School became a public school in 1881.
[383] Report of Waioli Select School From July 16th, to May 12th, 1863. On file at Grove Farm, Kaua‘i.
[384] Report of Waioli Select School From July 16th, to May 12th, 1863. On file at Grove Farm, Kaua‘i.
[385] Report of Waioli Select School From July 16th, to May 12th, 1863. On file at Grove Farm, Kaua‘i.
[386] Report of Waioli Select School From July 16th, to May 12th, 1863. On file at Grove Farm, Kaua‘i.
[387] King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917.
[388] pp. 15-16, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917.
[389] p. 6, Ethel Damon’s Interviews with G. N. Wilcox, March 8, 1932. On file at Grove Farm, Kaua‘i.
[390] p. 390, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[391] p. 393, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[392] Georg Anton Schäffer (1779-1836).
[393] pp. 7-8, Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu: Hawai‘i, 2002.
[394] p. 8, Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu: Hawai‘i, 2002.
[395] Bird 1964: 194-5.
[396] pp. 221-222, Bingham, Hiram. A Residence of Twenty-One Years in the Sandwich Islands. Hartford: Hezekiah Huntington; New York: Sherman Converse, 1848.
[397] pp. 221-222, Bingham, Hiram. A Residence of Twenty-One Years in the Sandwich Islands. Hartford: Hezekiah Huntington; New York: Sherman Converse, 1848.
[398] pp. 221-222, Bingham, Hiram. A Residence of Twenty-One Years in the Sandwich Islands. Hartford: Hezekiah Huntington; New York: Sherman Converse, 1848.
[399] Cited on pp. 321-322, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in ThatIsland Garden. Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931.
[400] p. 5, Ethel Damon’s Interviews with G. N. Wilcox, March 12, 1932. On file at Grove Farm, Kaua‘i.
[401] p. 5, Ethel Damon’s Interviews with G. N. Wilcox, March 12, 1932. On file at Grove Farm, Kaua‘i.
[402] p. 112, 113, Wichman, Frederick B. Nā Pua Ali‘i O Kaua‘i: Ruling Chiefs of Kaua‘i. Honolulu: University ofHawai‘i Press, 2003.
[403] p. 113, Wichman, Frederick B. Nā Pua Ali‘i O Kaua‘i: Ruling Chiefs of Kaua‘i. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 2003.
[404] p. 105, Moffat, Riley M., and Fitzpatrick, Gary L. Surveying the Māhele. Honolulu: Editions Limited, 1995.
[405] p. 7, Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu: Hawai‘i, 2002.
[406] p. 2, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917.
[407] p. 109, Wichman, Frederick B. Kaua‘i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998.
[408] p. 67, Narrative of a Voyage Round the World, Performed in Her Majesty’s Ship Sulphur, During the Years 1836-1842, Including Details of the Naval Operations in China, From Dec. 1840, to Nov. 1841. Published under the Authority of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, by Captain Sir Edward Belcher, Commander of the Expedition, Volume I,London: Henry Colburn, Publisher, Great Marlborough Street, 1843.
[409] p. 335, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931.
pp. 278-279, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[410] p. 334, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931.
[411] Elsie Wilcox spells his name Koka in: Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917, but Josephine Wundenberg King spells the name Goka in: King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917.
[412] p. 5, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917.
[413] p. 279, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[414] pp. 10-11, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917.
[415] p. 281, Narrative of a Voyage Round the World, Performed in Her Majesty’s Ship Sulphur, During the Years 1836-1842, Including Details of the Naval Operations in China, From Dec. 1840, to Nov. 1841. Published under the Authority of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, by Captain Sir Edward Belcher, Commander of the Expedition, Volume I, London: Henry Colburn, Publisher, Great Marlborough Street, 1843.
[416] p. 271, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917, citing Alexander’s History.
[417] p. 332, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931.
[418] pp. 332-333, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That IslandGarden. Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931.
[419] p. 13, Ethel Damon’s Interviews with G. N. Wilcox, March, 1921. On file at Grove Farm, Kaua‘i.
[420] p. 186, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931.
[421] p. 278-9, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[422] p. 271, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[423] p. 277, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[424] p. 14, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917.
[425] pp. 176-177, Dorrance, William H., and Morgan, Francis S. Sugar Islands: The 165-Year Story of Sugar in Hawai‘i. Honolulu: Mutual Publishing, 2000.
[426] pp. 176-177, Dorrance, William H., and Morgan, Francis S. Sugar Islands: The 165-Year Story of Sugar in Hawai‘i. Honolulu: Mutual Publishing, 2000.
[427] p. 347, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931.
[428] p. 278, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[429] p. 278, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[430] Charlton served as British Consul for Hawai‘i in Honolulu from 1825 to 1846.
[431] Princeville Ranch. p. 2, Na Leo ‘O Princeville. Princeville Corporation & Princeville Utilities Company, Inc., Summer, 2003.
[432] p. 270, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[433] p. 275, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[434] Damon 1931:335.
[435] p. 275, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[436] p. 275, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[437] The 28,600 acres of land granted to maka‘āinana (commoners) was less than 1% of the land total of about 4.5 million acres, but much of it was located in prime agricultural areas.
[438] See Timeline: 1848.
[439] Pacific Commercial Advertiser 2/19/1857, p, 2)
[440] Pacific Commercial Advertiser 2/19/1857, p, 2)
[441] p. 272, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[442] pp. 16-17, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917.
[443] A holokū is a loose dress (e.g., mu‘umu‘u).
[444] pp. 16-17, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917.
[445] pp. 16-17, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917.
[446] p. 272, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[447] p. 272, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[448] p. 341, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931.
[449] Kikiula was later known as the Princeville Plantation House and then the Princeville Ranch House.
[450] p. 3, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917.
[451] p. 3, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917.
[452] p. 272, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kaua‘i Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[453] p. 237, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917.
[454] p. 344, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931.
[455] p. 334, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931.
[456] p. 149, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984.
[457] p. 350, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931.
[458] p. 350, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931.
[459] p. 334, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931.
[460] Royal Hawaiian Agricultural Society 1851:52-4.
[461] p. 273, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[462] p. 350, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931.
[463] p. 273, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[464] p. 273, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[465] p. 273, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[466] p. 273, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[467] p. 273, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[468] Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden. Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931.
[469] p. 52, Davies, Theo. An Account of the First Visit to the Island of Kauai in September 1860. Transcription from the original journal written in longhand on board S. S. “Ariel”, on the Atlantic, 22nd August, 1862.
[470] p. 10, Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu: Hawai‘i, 2002.
[471]
[472] p. 181, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984.
[473] p. 181, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984.
[474] p. 11, Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu: Hawai‘i, 2002.
[475] The Legacy of a Young Hawaiian Prince. Na Leo ‘O Princeville: A publication of Princeville Corporation & Princeville Utilities Company, Inc., Spring, 2003.
[476] p. 4, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917.
[477] p. 277, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[478] p. 4, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917.
[479] p. 2, King, Josephine Wundenberg. Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917.
[480] p. 15, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917.
[481] p. 5, King, Josephine Wundenberg. Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917.
[482] p. 6, King, Josephine Wundenberg. Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917.
[483] The full name of the prince was Prince Albert Edward Kauikeaouli Leiopapa o Kamehameha, also known as Ka Haku o Hawai‘i (The Prince of Hawai‘i).
[484] pp. 9-10, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917
[485] pp. 9-10, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917.
[486] pp. 9-10, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917
[487] pp. 9-10, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917.
[488] p. 182, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984.
[489] Theophilus Harris Davies (1833-1898).
[490] The ‘ōahi (fire throwing) ceremony also took place at the cliffs of Mākua and Kāmaile.
[491] Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden. Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931.
[492] p. 300, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 2735.
[493] p. 57, Davies, Theo. An Account of the First Visit to the Island of Kauai in September 1860. Transcription from the original journal written in longhand on board S. S. “Ariel”, on the Atlantic, 22nd August, 1862.
[494] p. 57, Davies, Theo. An Account of the First Visit to the Island of Kauai in September 1860. Transcription from the original journal written in longhand on board S. S. “Ariel”, on the Atlantic, 22nd August, 1862.
[495] Davies noted: “At about two o‘clock we arrived at Haula, the royal flag being hoisted over the grass house prepared for our reception. The Prince of Hawaii, the Queen’s mother, and the Governor of Hawaii with numerous servants had come around by boats, bringing our provisions etc. with them. We gladly alighted, amongst a troop of native spectators.” [P. 58, Davies, Theo. An Account of the First Visit to the Island of Kauai in September 1860. Transcription from the original journal written in longhand on board S. S. “Ariel”, on the Atlantic, 22nd August, 1862.]
[496] p. 59, Davies, Theo. An Account of the First Visit to the Island of Kauai in September 1860. Transcription from the original journal written in longhand on board S. S. “Ariel”, on the Atlantic, 22nd August, 1862.
[497] p. 278, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[498] p. 278, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[499] p. 12, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917.
[500] p. 279, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[501] p. 257, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[502] p. 54, Davies, Theo. An Account of the First Visit to the Island of Kauai in September 1860. Transcription from the original journal written in longhand on board S. S. “Ariel”, on the Atlantic, 22nd August, 1862.
[503] p. 52, Davies, Theo. An Account of the First Visit to the Island of Kauai in September 1860. Transcription from the original journal written in longhand on board S. S. “Ariel”, on the Atlantic, 22nd August, 1862.
[504] p. 139, Korn, Alfons L. The Victorian Visitors; An Account of the Hawaiian Kingdom, 1861-1866. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1958.
[505] pp. 137-138, Korn, Alfons L. The Victorian Visitors; An Account of the Hawaiian Kingdom, 1861-1866. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1958.
[506] pp. 17-18, Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu: Hawai‘i, 2002.
[507] pp. 183-184, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984.
[508] p. 17, Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu: Hawai‘i, 2002.
[509] Korn, Alfons L. The Victorian Visitors; An Account of the Hawaiian Kingdom, 1861-1866. Honolulu: Universityof Hawaii Press, 1958.
[510] p. 183, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984.
[511] Korn
[512] p. 13, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917.
[513] p. 13, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917.
[514] p. 13, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917.
[515] pp. 183-184, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984.
[516] p. 279, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[517] p. 177, Korn, Alfons L. The Victorian Visitors; An Account of the Hawaiian Kingdom, 1861-1866. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1958.
[518] p. 177, Korn, Alfons L. The Victorian Visitors; An Account of the Hawaiian Kingdom, 1861-1866. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1958.
[519] p. 178, Korn, Alfons L. The Victorian Visitors; An Account of the Hawaiian Kingdom, 1861-1866. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1958.
[520] p. 377, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[521] Elsie Wilcox noted that the mill was “set up by Mr. John Webster, who came out for the purpose.” P. 280, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[522] p. 4, Westerners Arrive. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990.
[523] Personal letter of Anna S. Wundenberg Wright, 1921, entitled “The Hanalei Valley.” On file at Kaua‘i Historical Society.
[524] p. 278, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[525] p. 278, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[526] p. 14, King, Josephine Wundenberg, Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917.
[527] p. 178, Korn, Alfons L. The Victorian Visitors; An Account of the Hawaiian Kingdom, 1861-1866. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1958.
[528] p. 138, Korn, Alfons L. The Victorian Visitors; An Account of the Hawaiian Kingdom, 1861-1866. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1958.
[529] p. 6, Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu: Hawai‘i, 2002.
[530] p. 278, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.]
[532] p. 9, Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu: Hawai‘i, 2002.
[533] p. 280, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[534] p. 126, Korn, Alfons L. The Victorian Visitors; An Account of the Hawaiian Kingdom, 1861-1866. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1958.
[535] p. 185, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984.
[536] p. 281, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[537] p. 186, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984.
[538] p. 22, Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu: Hawai‘i, 2002.
[539] p. 281, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[540] p. 282, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[541] p. 733, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931.
[542] p. 103, Whitney, Henry M. The Hawaiian Guide Book for Travelers. 1875. Reprint. Rutland, Vt.: Tuttle, 1970.
[543] p. 104, Whitney, Henry M. The Hawaiian Guide Book for Travelers. 1875. Reprint. Rutland, Vt.: Tuttle, 1970.
[544] Bird, Isabella L. Six Months in the Sandwich Islands. 1875, Reprint. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press for Friends of the Library of Hawaii, 1964.
[545]
[546] p. 282, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[547] Bird, Isabella L. Six Months in the Sandwich Islands. 1875, Reprint. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press for Friends of the Library of Hawaii, 1964.
[548] From a report by the Princeville Plantation manager. [p. 5, Westerners Arrive. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990.]
[549] p. 283, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917. Wilcox notes: “The company was as follows: Colonel Spalding one-eighth, S. G. Allen one-eighth, Carl Tuch one-eighth, C. Koelling five-eighth.”
[550] p. 283, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[551] Princeville Ranch. p. 2, Na Leo ‘O Princeville. Princeville Corporation & Princeville Utilities Company, Inc., Summer, 2003.
[552] p. 283, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[553] p. 283, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[554] p. 72, Wilcox, Carol. Sugar Water: Hawai‘i’s Plantation Ditches. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1996.
[555] Princeville Ranch. p. 2, Na Leo ‘O Princeville. Princeville Corporation & Princeville Utilities Company, Inc., Summer, 2003.
[556] p. 23, Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu: Hawai‘i, 2002.
[557] Prince Albert passed away before the gift could be presented.
[558] Helen Kapililani Sanborn Davis: Reminiscences of a Life in the Islands, as told to Maili Yardley. Honolulu,Hawaii, Native Books, 2000.
[559] National Register of Historic Places: United States Department of the Interior; National Park Service.
[560] p. 273, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[561] p. 39, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[562] p. 27, Helen Kapililani Sanborn Davis: Reminiscences of a Life in the Islands, as told to Maili Yardley. Honolulu,Hawaii, Native Books, 2000.
[563] p. 27, Helen Kapililani Sanborn Davis: Reminiscences of a Life in the Islands, as told to Maili Yardley. Honolulu,Hawaii, Native Books, 2000.
[564] p. 14, Princeville Plantation Ranch House. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990.
[565] p. 13, Helen Kapililani Sanborn Davis: Reminiscences of a Life in the Islands, as told to Maili Yardley. Honolulu,Hawaii, Native Books, 2000.
[566] p. 14, Princeville Plantation Ranch House. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990.
[567] p. 14, Princeville Plantation Ranch House. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990.
[568] p. 31, Helen Kapililani Sanborn Davis: Reminiscences of a Life in the Islands, as told to Maili Yardley. Honolulu,Hawaii, Native Books, 2000.
[569] pp. 16-17, Helen Kapililani Sanborn Davis: Reminiscences of a Life in the Islands, as told to Maili Yardley.Honolulu, Hawaii, Native Books, 2000.
[570] pp. 16-17, Helen Kapililani Sanborn Davis: Reminiscences of a Life in the Islands, as told to Maili Yardley.Honolulu, Hawaii, Native Books, 2000.
[571] p. 21, Helen Kapililani Sanborn Davis: Reminiscences of a Life in the Islands, as told to Maili Yardley. Honolulu,Hawaii, Native Books, 2000.
[572] p. 21, Helen Kapililani Sanborn Davis: Reminiscences of a Life in the Islands, as told to Maili Yardley. Honolulu,Hawaii, Native Books, 2000.
[573] National Register of Historic Places: United States Department of the Interior; National Park Service.
[574] p. 14, Princeville Plantation Ranch House. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990.
[575] p. 14, Princeville Plantation Ranch House. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990.
[576] p. 14, Helen Kapililani Sanborn Davis: Reminiscences of a Life in the Islands, as told to Maili Yardley. Honolulu,Hawaii, Native Books, 2000.
[577] Whitney 1890: 107-8.
[578] pp. 276-277, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[579] pp. 276-277, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[580] p. 5, Westerners Arrive. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990.
[581] p. 340, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931.
[582] p. 341, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931.
[583] p. 341, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931.
[584] p. 340, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That Island Garden.Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931.
[585] p. 232, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984.
[586] Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984.
[587] p. 243, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[588] p. 8, The Hanalei Hotel. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990.
[589] p. 8, The Hanalei Hotel. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990.
[590] p. 8, The Hanalei Hotel. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990.
[dxci] p. 7, The Bridge and the Roads. Infrastructure and Commerce in Rice Times: New Technology makes Hanalei more accessible. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dxcii] Royal Hawaiian Agricultural Society 1851:52-4.
[dxciii] p. 99, Whitney, Henry M. The Hawaiian Guide Book for Travelers. 1875. Reprint. Rutland, Vt.: Tuttle, 1970.
[dxciv] p. 14. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990.
[dxcv] p. 14. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990.
[dxcvi] p. 56, Davies, Theo. An Account of the First Visit to the Island of Kauai in September 1860. Transcription from the original journal written in longhand on board S. S. “Ariel”, on the Atlantic, 22nd August, 1862.
[dxcvii] p. 7, The Bridge and the Roads. Infrastructure and Commerce in Rice Times: New Technology makes Hanalei more accessible, citing a “statistical, commercial and tourist guide” written by George Browser. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dxcviii] p. 15, King, Josephine Wundenberg. Reminiscences of Hanalei, Kauai, Kaua‘i Historical Society, 5/26/1917.
[dxcix] p. 273, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[dc] Hanalei Bridge is located on Route 560 at Milepost 1.19.
[dci] Cook, Chris. Robeson, Wilcox honored for preserving Hanalei Bridge: Statewide Historic Hawai‘i Foundation conference opens. The Garden Island, 5/15/2003.
[dcii] The Garden Island, 8/06/1912.
[dciii] p. 7, The Bridge and the Roads. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dciv] The Garden Island, 1/1/1913.
**[dcv]** Wai‘oli Bridge is located just west of Hanalei town.
[dcvi] Waipā Bridge is located just west of Hanalei town.
[dcvii] Waikoko Bridge is located just west of Hanalei town.
[dcviii] New Church is Dedicated. The Garden Island, 10/22/1912.
[dcix] A type of column in Greek architecture originating with the Dorians.
[dcx] Hanalei’s Beautiful Church Edifice. The Garden Island, 10/29/1912.
[dcxi] Hanalei’s Beautiful New Church Edifice. The Garden Island, 10/29/1912.
[dcxii] Hanalei’s Beautiful Church Edifice. The Garden Island, 10/29/1912.
[dcxiii] Hanalei’s Beautiful Church Edifice. The Garden Island, 10/29/1912.
[dcxiv] Hart Wood (1880-1957) came to Hawai‘i in 1919 as chief designer for prominent Hawai‘i architect, C. W. Dickey, and eventually designed many prominent buildings and homes in Honolulu and other locations.
[dcxv] p. 69, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987.
[dcxvi] p. 67, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987.
[dcxvii] Līhu‘e contractor Sam B. Goss was hired to complete the Wai‘oli mission restoration work.
[dcxviii] p. 70, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987.
[dcxix] p. 70, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987.
[dcxx] p. 396, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[dcxxi] p. 396, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[dcxxii] p. 396, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[dcxxiii] p. 70, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987.
[dcxxiv] p. 65, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987.
[dcxxv] p. 8, Medical. Infrastructure and Commerce in Rice Times: New Technology makes Hanalei more accessible.Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dcxxvi] p. 21, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303)
[dcxxvii] p. 79, Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987.
[dcxxviii] pp. 17-18, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303)
[dcxxix] p. 8, Waioli Park, Infrastructure and Commerce in Rice Times: New Technology makes Hanalei more accessible. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dcxxx] p. 396, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[dcxxxi] Riznik, Barnes. Digging Down under Wai‘oli Mission Hall. Historic Hawai‘i News, 1980.
[dcxxxii] The 1986 restoration raised the Belfry about 4 inches above its previous height.
[dcxxxiii] State of the River 2001: Hanalei American Heritage River. Internet site: http://www.epa.gov/rivers/sor/sorhanalei.pdf., 2001.
[dcxxxiv] p. 276-281, Narrative of a Voyage Round the World, Performed in Her Majesty’s Ship Sulphur, During the Years 1836-1842, Including Details of the Naval Operations in China, From Dec. 1840, to Nov. 1841. Published under the Authority of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, by Captain Sir Edward Belcher, Commander of the Expedition, Volume I, London: Henry Colburn, Publisher, Great Marlborough Street, 1843.
[dcxxxv] p. 67, 276-281, Narrative of a Voyage Round the World, Performed in Her Majesty’s Ship Sulphur, During the Years 1836-1842, Including Details of the Naval Operations in China, From Dec. 1840, to Nov. 1841. Published under the Authority of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, by Captain Sir Edward Belcher, Commander of the Expedition, Volume I, London: Henry Colburn, Publisher, Great Marlborough Street, 1843.
[dcxxxvi] p. 72, Wilcox, Carol. Sugar Water: Hawai‘i’s Plantation Ditches. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1996.
[dcxxxvii] p. 70, Wilcox, Carol. Sugar Water: Hawai‘i’s Plantation Ditches. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1996.
[dcxxxviii] Wilcox, Carol. Sugar Water: Hawai‘i’s Plantation Ditches. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1996.
[dcxxxix] pp. 70-71, Wilcox, Carol. Sugar Water: Hawai‘i’s Plantation Ditches. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1996.
[dcxl] p. 72, Wilcox, Carol. Sugar Water: Hawai‘i’s Plantation Ditches. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1996.
[dcxli] p. 104, Whitney, Henry M. The Hawaiian Guide Book for Travelers. 1875. Reprint. Rutland, Vt.: Tuttle, 1970.
[dcxlii] The Hanalei Valley land was part of the former plantation of Charles Titcomb, likely in the area crossed by Nukuhuli Stream near the current Hanalei Center (Wailele Building).
[dcxliii] p. 2, The Emergence of Rice. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dcxliv] p. 2, The Emergence of Rice. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dcxlv] p. 2, The Emergence of Rice. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dcxlvi] p. 2, The Emergence of Rice. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dcxlvii] p. 1, A Changing Landscape, a New Crop, a New Population. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dcxlviii] p. 1, A Changing Landscape, a New Crop, a New Population. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dcxlix] p. 11, Cultural and Religious Community Life in the Rice Times. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends ofKauai, 1997.
[dcl] p. 22, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303)
[dcli] p. 11, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303)
[dclii] p. 16, The Demise of the Rice Industry. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dcliii] p. 16, The Demise of the Rice Industry. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dcliv] p. 4, Recollecting the Work of Rice Farmers. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dclv] p. 4, Recollecting the Work of Rice Farmers. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dclvi] p. 4, Recollecting the Work of Rice Farmers. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dclvii] Nutmeg mannikins. p. 101, Hawaii’s Birds. Honolulu: Hawaiian Audubon Society, 1993. “Nutmeg Mannikin (Lonchura punctulata). Introduced from Southeast Asia about 1865. Also known as Ricebird or Spotted Munia...It can become a serious agricultural pest, particularly in rice and sorghum.”
[dclviii] p. 4, Recollecting the Work of Rice Farmers. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dclix] p. 22, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303)
[dclx] p. 26, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303)
[dclxi] The wood of the hau tree was also used for fencing.
[dclxii] p. 4, Recollecting the Work of Rice Farmers. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dclxiii] p. 11, Cultural and Religious Community Life in the Rice Times. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends ofKauai, 1997.
[dclxiv] p. 22, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303)
[dclxv] p. 3, The Rice Farms and Mills in the Landscape. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dclxvi] This land is now occupied by Hanalei Garden Farms and Bison Ranch. The land was known in ancient times as Pā‘ele, which means “Black,” or “Dark.” Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1986.
[dclxvii] p. 5, Kenichi Tasaka. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dclxviii] p. 3, The Rice Farms and Mills in the Landscape. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dclxix] Fujimoto, Dennis. Haraguchi Rice Mill receives Young Bros. grant. The Garden Island, 8/14/2003.
[dclxx] p. 23, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303)
[dclxxi] p. 23, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303)
[dclxxii] p. 16, The Demise of the Rice Industry. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997, citing Tin-Yuke, Chinese Historic Sites, p. 160.
[dclxxiii] p. 3, The Rice Farms and Mills in the Landscape. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dclxxiv] p. 323, Damon, Ethel M. Koamalu: A Story of Pioneers on Kauai and of What They Built in That IslandGarden. Volume 1. Privately Printed, Honolulu, 1931.
[dclxxv] p. 2, The Rice Farms and Mills in the Landscape. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dclxxvi] p. 25, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303)
[dclxxvii] Overnight camping is allowed at Black Pot Park only on weekends.
[dclxxviii] pp. 287-288, Bird, Isabella L. Six Months in the Sandwich Islands. 1875, Reprint. Honolulu: University ofHawaii Press for Friends of the Library of Hawaii, 1964.
[dclxxix] p. 8, The Hanalei Pier, Infrastructure and Commerce in Rice Times: New Technology makes Hanalei more accessible. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dclxxx] Fujimoto, Dennis. Haraguchi Rice Mill receives Young Bros. grant. The Garden Island, 8/14/2003.
[dclxxxi] Fujimoto, Dennis. Haraguchi Rice Mill receives Young Bros. grant. The Garden Island, 8/14/2003.
[dclxxxii] Remnants of the railroad tracks may still be seen near Hanalei Pier.
[dclxxxiii] p. 8, The Hanalei Pier, Infrastructure and Commerce in Rice Times: New Technology makes Hanalei more accessible. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dclxxxiv] p. 8, The Hanalei Pier, Infrastructure and Commerce in Rice Times: New Technology makes Hanalei more accessible. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dclxxxv] p. 8, The Hanalei Pier, Infrastructure and Commerce in Rice Times: New Technology makes Hanalei more accessible. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dclxxxvi] p. 34, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[dclxxxvii] p. 14, Princeville Plantation Ranch House. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990.
[dclxxxviii] p. 9, Commerce in the Rice Growing Era. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dclxxxix] p. 9, Commerce in the Rice Growing Era. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dcxc] p. 9, Polk-Husted Directory of Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii, 1914. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dcxci] Frank Kurihara referred to the Chock Chin Store as Chock Sing: “At the intersection was Chock Sing Store. It later became Lau Store.” [p. 7, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303).]
[dcxcii] p. 9, Commerce in the Rice Growing Era. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dcxciii] p. 9, Commerce in the Rice Growing Era. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dcxciv] p. 5, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303).
[dcxcv] Man Sing’s rice plantation was also located alongside the Hanalei River. He sold his rice mill to the Haraguchis in 1924. [p. 3, The Rice Farms and Mills in the Landscape. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.]
[dcxcvi] A ceremony to celebrate the completion of Fusao Haraguchi’s sampan took place on May 10, 1938.
[dcxcvii] Fujimoto, Dennis. Haraguchi Rice Mill receives Young Bros. grant. The Garden Island, 8/14/2003.
[dcxcviii] Permission to use the land to grow rice was given by the Robinson family. Fujimoto, Dennis. Haraguchi Rice Mill receives Young Bros. grant. The Garden Island, 8/14/2003.
[dcxcix] William Haraguchi a Living Treasure for life-long commitment to agriculture. The Garden Island, 6/26/2002.
[dcc] p. 101, Hawaii’s Birds. Honolulu: Hawaiian Audubon Society, 1993. “Nutmeg Mannikin (Lonchura punctulata). Introduced from Southeast Asia about 1865. Also known as Ricebird or Spotted Munia...It can become a serious agricultural pest, particularly in rice and sorghum.”
[dcci] According to Harry Ho, “opposite the Man Sung Wai Rice Mill, a Chinese temple and a community home were built.” [p. 12, The Chinese Cemetery, by Harry Ho: Recollections by longtime resident Harry Ho about the Yee Hing Society and the Chinese Cemetery. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.]
[dccii] The Yee Hing Community Home was sometimes referred to as the Community House.
[dcciii] p. 12, The Chinese Cemetery, by Harry Ho: Recollections by longtime resident Harry Ho about the Yee Hing Society and the Chinese Cemetery. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dcciv] p. 11, Cultural and Religious Community Life in the Rice Times. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dccv] p. 12, The Chinese Cemetery, by Harry Ho: Recollections by longtime resident Harry Ho about the Yee Hing Society and the Chinese Cemetery. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dccvi] p. 11, Cultural and Religious Community Life in the Rice Times. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dccvii] p. 12, The Chinese Cemetery, by Harry Ho: Recollections by longtime resident Harry Ho about the Yee Hing Society and the Chinese Cemetery. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dccviii] The former Hongwanji in Hanalei Valley was used for office space. P. 11, Cultural and Religious Community Life in the Rice Times. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dccix] p. 12, The Chinese Cemetery, by Harry Ho: Recollections by longtime resident Harry Ho about the Yee Hing Society and the Chinese Cemetery. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dccx] p. 12, The Chinese Cemetery, by Harry Ho: Recollections by longtime resident Harry Ho about the Yee Hing Society and the Chinese Cemetery. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dccxi] p. 12, The Chinese Cemetery, by Harry Ho: Recollections by longtime resident Harry Ho about the Yee Hing Society and the Chinese Cemetery. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dccxii] p. 12, The Chinese Cemetery, by Harry Ho: Recollections by longtime resident Harry Ho about the Yee Hing Society and the Chinese Cemetery. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dccxiii] p. 12, The Chinese Cemetery, by Harry Ho: Recollections by longtime resident Harry Ho about the Yee Hing Society and the Chinese Cemetery. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dccxiv] In later years the Cemetery was maintained by the Chinese community in the region as well as the Mormon community. [p. 12, The Chinese Cemetery, by Harry Ho: Recollections by longtime resident Harry Ho about the Yee Hing Society and the Chinese Cemetery. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.]
[dccxv] These homes are located on the land that is now the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge.
[dccxvi] pp. 5-6, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303)
[dccxvii] The Trader Building was at the current site of the Dolphin Building.
[dccxviii] p. 9, Commerce in the Rice Growing Era. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dccxix] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1986.
[dccxx] p. 6, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303)
[dccxxi] p. 12, The Chinese Cemetery, by Harry Ho: Recollections by longtime resident Harry Ho about the Yee Hing Society and the Chinese Cemetery. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dccxxii] p. 12, The Chinese Cemetery, by Harry Ho: Recollections by longtime resident Harry Ho about the Yee Hing Society and the Chinese Cemetery. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dccxxiii] Ching Young Village History Page. Internet site: http://www.chingyoungvillage.com/history.htm, 1/10/2003.
[dccxxiv] Missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox first arrived on Kaua‘i in 1846. Their sons and descendants have played a significant role in Hanalei history.
[dccxxv] p. 5, Ching Young Store Historic Register Application Statement of Historical and/or Architectural Significance.
[dccxxvi] Ching Young Village History Page. Internet site: http://www.chingyoungvillage.com/history.htm, 1/10/2003.] Dang Ha Ching’s name was given as Ah Har Dang in: Commerce in the Rice Growing Era. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997, p. 10.
[dccxxvii] Ching Young Village History Page. Internet site: http://www.chingyoungvillage.com/history.htm, 1/10/2003.
[dccxxviii] p. 5, Historic Register Application Statement of Historical and/or Architectural Significance.
[dccxxix] Ching Young Village History Page. Internet site: http://www.chingyoungvillage.com/history.htm, 1/10/2003.
[dccxxx] p. 6, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303)
[dccxxxi] Reverend Tsui Hin Wong was listed in the Polk Directory in 1930-31.
[dccxxxii] p. 11, Cultural and Religious Community Life in the Rice Times. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends ofKauai, 1997.
[dccxxxiii] p. 3, The Rice Farms and Mills in the Landscape. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dccxxxiv] p. 9, Commerce in the Rice Growing Era. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dccxxxv] p. 7, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303)
[dccxxxvi] pp. 6-7, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303)
[dccxxxvii] p. 9, Polk-Husted Directory of Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii, 1914. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dccxxxviii] Frank Kurihara recalls “Mr. Yokota, the Japanese school teacher.” [p. 7, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303).]
[dccxxxix] p. 11, Cultural and Religious Community Life in the Rice Times. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends ofKauai, 1997.
[dccxl] p. 11, Cultural and Religious Community Life in the Rice Times. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dccxli] Hawai‘i’s Japanese residents numbered about 100,000, including 35,000 first generation Japanese.
[dccxlii] Later the building was again moved.
[dccxliii] P. 11, Cultural and Religious Community Life in the Rice Times. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends ofKauai, 1997. Frank Kurihara noted that “the Japanese School...was moved there from its previous location near the beach.” [P. 7, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303)]
[dccxliv] p. 9, Commerce in the Rice Growing Era. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dccxlv] Frank Kurihara referred to the store at the intersection as the Chock Sing Store: “At the intersection was Chock Sing Store. It later became Lau Store.” [p. 7, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303).]
[dccxlvi] p. 9, Commerce in the Rice Growing Era. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dccxlvii] p. 9, Commerce in the Rice Growing Era. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dccxlviii] p. 9, Commerce in the Rice Growing Era. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. [Note: Frank Kurihara referred to the store at the intersection as the Chock Sing Store: “At the intersection was Chock Sing Store. It later became Lau Store.” [p. 7, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996.]
[dccxlix] p. 9, Commerce in the Rice Growing Era. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dccl] Source: Note on file at Kaua‘i Historical Society stating “Information source: Mr. K. Tasaka.”
[dccli] p. 5, Kenichi Tasaka. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dcclii] p. 5, Kenichi Tasaka. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dccliii] p. 7, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303)
[dccliv] The Lily Pond House was located on a lot belonging to Harry Weinberg.
[dcclv] Lily Pond House - National Register of Historic Places: Statement of Historical and/or Architectural Significance.United States Department of the Interior; National Park Service.
[dcclvi] The Lily Pond House was moved under the direction of Mr. Tasaka, a taro farmer and County plumber, and the son of the former caretaker for the home of the Kaua‘i Electric manager. Lily Pond House - National Register of Historic Places: Statement of Historical and/or Architectural Significance. United States Department of the Interior; National Park Service.
[dcclvii] p. 7, The Old Post Office. Infrastructure and Commerce in Rice Times: New Technology makes Hanalei more accessible. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dcclviii] Post Office in Paradise: Kauai Postmarks, Part 1—Anahola to Koloa. Internet site: http://www.hawaiianstamps.com/iskauai1.html, 3/18/2003.
[dcclix] The Princeville Plantation House was formerly known as Kikiula, and later known as the Princeville Ranch House). P. 7, The Bridge and the Roads. Infrastructure and Commerce in Rice Times: New Technology makes Hanalei more accessible.. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dcclx] p. 4, Westerners Arrive. Hanalei Yesterday, Part I, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1990.
[dcclxi] Post Office in Paradise: Kauai Postmarks, Part 1—Anahola to Koloa. Internet site: http://www.hawaiianstamps.com/iskauai1.html, 3/18/2003.
[dcclxii] p. 7, The Old Post Office. Infrastructure and Commerce in Rice Times: New Technology makes Hanalei more accessible. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dcclxiii] p. 7, The Old Post Office. Infrastructure and Commerce in Rice Times: New Technology makes Hanalei more accessible. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dcclxiv] p. 10, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303)
[dcclxv] p. 9, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303). Also, “John Hanohano served as the area’s policeman along with Kaonohe.” [p. 17, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303)]
[dcclxvi] A Brief History of the Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church. Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church Bulletin, 2003.
[dcclxvii] Report of the Superintendent of Public Instruction to the Governor of the Territory of Hawaii from December 31, 1902 to December 31, 1904.
[dcclxviii] p. 9, Polk-Husted Directory of Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii, 1914. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dcclxix] Hanalei School is fully accredited by the Western Association of Schools and Colleges.
[dcclxx] p. 10, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303)
[dcclxxi] p. 10, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303)
[dcclxxii] Wilcox, Carol. The Kauai Album. Kaua‘i: Kauai Historical Society, 1981.
[dcclxxiii] Kurihara also noted that, living at the Princeville Plantation Ranch, were “the Lindsay, Niau, and the Kaukahi families, also the Io brothers.” Pages 6-7, 17, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303)
[dcclxxiv] p. 239, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[dcclxxv] Huki: “to pull”; lau: “seine.” Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1986.
[dcclxxvi] p. 29, Clark, John R. K. Beaches of Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1990.
[dcclxxvii] p. 6, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303)
[dcclxxviii] Lumaha‘i Hula. Kimo Alama, Keaulana Collection, Bishop Museum Archives MS GRP 329 Box 5.37.
[dcclxxix] Lumaha‘i Hula. Kimo Alama, Keaulana Collection, Bishop Museum Archives MS GRP 329 Box 5.37.
[dcclxxx] p. 13, Fishing. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dcclxxxi] Halalū refers to “the young of the akule fish, about 14 or 15 cm long.” [Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1986.]
[dcclxxxii] p. 18, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303)
[dcclxxxiii] p. 11, Cultural and Religious Community Life in the Rice Times. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends ofKauai, 1997.
[dcclxxxiv] Kauikeōlani Estate: Hanalei Plantation Cottages. Internet site:http://www.hanaleiland.com/pages/kaui_history.htm, 12/27/2002.
[dcclxxxv] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. & Mookini, Esther T. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[dcclxxxvi] p. 283, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[dcclxxxvii] p. 278, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[dcclxxxviii] p. 37, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[dcclxxxix] Sanborn Beach House—National Register of Historic Places: United States Department of the Interior; National Park Service.
[dccxc] The Princeville Ranch House was originally known as Kikiula, and then later called Princeville Plantation House, and then Princeville Ranch House.
[dccxci] Sanborn Beach House—National Register of Historic Places: United States Department of the Interior; National Park Service.
[dccxcii] Sanborn Beach House—National Register of Historic Places: United States Department of the Interior; National Park Service.
[dccxciii] Blaich, Beryl. Notes on file at Kaua‘i Historical Society, based on information from Alan Sanborn, 1/05/87.
[dccxciv] p. 17, Taro Returns to Hanalei. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dccxcv] p. 116, Damon, Ethel M. Letters from the Life of Abner and Lucy Wilcox, 1836-1869. Honolulu: privately printed, 1950.
[dccxcvi] Sobeleski, Hank. History makers of Kauai: H.P. Fayé. The Garden Island, Internet site: http://kauai-harborhouse.com/hbfaye.html, 3/29/2003.
[dccxcvii] Mahamoku. National Register of Historic Places: Inventory - Nomination Form.
[dccxcviii] Mahamoku. National Register of Historic Places: Inventory - Nomination Form.
[dccxcix] Mahamoku. National Register of Historic Places: Inventory - Nomination Form.
[dccc] Mahamoku. National Register of Historic Places: Inventory - Nomination Form.
[dccci] Mahamoku. National Register of Historic Places: Inventory - Nomination Form.
[dcccii] Beachhead (1954) was produced by Howard W. Koch, Beachhead was based on the Richard Hubler novel, I’ve Got Mine. With a budget of $400,000, Beachhead was a WWII film set in the Philippines.
[dccciii] Naked Paradise/Thunder Over Hawaii (1956) is a Roger Corman film starring Richard Denning, Beverly Garland, and Lisa Montell. Thunder Over Hawaii was the re-release title.
[dccciv] Musician David Crosby’s father, Floyd Crosby, worked as a cinematographer on the film.
[dcccv] Before the film version of South Pacific became famous, it had been a hit Broadway musical by Rodgers and Hammerstein. The film and the stage version were both based on the book Tales of the South Pacific, by James Michener.
[dcccvi] Numerous Rodgers & Hammerstein songs were popularized by South Pacific, including: Some Enchanted Evening, Bali Hai, There is Nothing Like a Dame, I’m in Love with a Wonderful Guy, and Younger Than Springtime. A controversial element of the film South Pacific was director Joshua Logan’s use of colored filters, which were meant to represent the actors’ moods and emotions, in several scenes
[dcccvii] In the 1960s, the Birkmyre Estate was replaced by the Hanalei Plantation Hotel and a house, both of which have since been removed.
[dcccviii] Nadine Alexander, the wife of Duke Kahanamoku, played a nun in the movie.
[dcccix] Wackiest Ship in the Army (1961) was loosely based on an event that occurred in World War II.
[dcccx] Filming of Paradise Hawaiian Style (1965) took place in 1964.
[dcccxi] Behold Hawaii is an IMAX production by MacGillivray-Freeman Films. O‘ahu’s Bishop Museum provided guidance in the production of Behold Hawaii.
[dcccxii] Joe Darrow discovers that his wife had their child before she died, and the natives are taking care of the child.
[dcccxiii] Forty-seven minutes after the earthquake in the Aleutian Islands, a tsunami sheared the Scotch Cap Lighthouse atUnimak Island off its base, killing five people.
[dcccxiv] p. 140, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 1285.
[dcccxv] Sanborn Beach House—National Register of Historic Places: United States Department of the Interior; National Park Service.
[dcccxvi] p. 24, Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu: Hawai‘i, 2002.
[dcccxvii] Princeville Corporation finalizes sale of land. The Garden Island, 9/14/2003.
[dcccxix] p. 27, Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu: Hawai‘i, 2002.
[dcccxx] Haraguchi Rice Mill - Phone: 808-826-6202; Mail to: P.O. Box 427, Hanalei, HI 96714.
[dcccxxi] Bates 1854: 201-4, 206.
[dcccxxii] Robinson, Robby. History of the Singlehanded TransPacific Yacht Race. Internet site: http://www.sfbaysss.org/transpac96/tphist.html, 3/26/2003.
[dcccxxiii] p. 67, Narrative of a Voyage Round the World, Performed in Her Majesty’s Ship Sulphur, During the Years 1836-1842, Including Details of the Naval Operations in China, From Dec. 1840, to Nov. 1841. Published under the Authority of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, by Captain Sir Edward Belcher, Commander of the Expedition, Volume I, London: Henry Colburn, Publisher, Great Marlborough Street, 1843.
[dcccxxiv] Internet site: http://www.hanaleiriver.org, 2003.
[dcccxxv] p. 20, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303)
[dcccxxvi] p. 18, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303)
[dcccxxvii] p. 144, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 1323.
[dcccxxviii] p. 18, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303)
[dcccxxix] Hanalei river program awarded $700,000. The Garden Island, 5/07/2003.
[dcccxxx] Billig, Priscilla Pérez. Waipā: A living ahupua‘a. Spirit of Aloha. November/December, 2002.
[dcccxxxi] Billig, Priscilla Pérez. Waipā: A living ahupua‘a. Spirit of Aloha. November/December, 2002.
[dcccxxxii] Waipa Foundation. Internet site: http://www.waipafoundation.org/, 8/09/2003.
[dcccxxxiii] p. 17, Taro Returns to Hanalei. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dcccxxxiv] p. 64, Handy, 1940:72.
[dcccxxxv] p. 64, Handy, 1940:72.
[dcccxxxvi] The Sanborn Poi Mill in the 1950s was run by Kenichi Tasaka, Michi Fukuda, and Harold Kobayashi. [p. 17,Taro Returns to Hanalei. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.]
[dcccxxxvii] p. 17, Taro Returns to Hanalei. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dcccxxxviii] Kubota, Gary T. Poi takes a pounding: Damaged crops have growers reducing supplies. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 5/16/2003.
[dcccxxxix] In 1978, Hanalei Bridge was placed on the National and State Registers of Historic Places.
[dcccxl] Press Release for Preservation News. The Hanalei Project: 1000 Friends of Kauai, 6/06/1989.
[dcccxli] Vehicle counts revealed that cars crossing Hanalei Bridge increased to 8,000 per day in 2001 from 4,500 per day in 1999, with less than 2,000 of the vehicles driven by local residents in both counts. Source: Conrow, Joan. Picture Perfect?: The changing face of Hanalei. Kaua‘i Business Report, May, 2003.
[dcccxlii] TenBruggencate, Jan. Hanalei braces for boats. The Honolulu Advertiser, 5/15/2002.
[dcccxliii] Surfing in Hawai‘i was part of the Hawaiians’ kapu system, where ali‘i (the ruling class, or royalty) and maka‘āinana (commoners) had different status. The ali‘i, or ruling class, used surfboards that were from 14 to 16 feet long and carved from the buoyant wood of the wiliwili tree. A big surfboard like this made of premium wood was called an olo (also ‘ōwili, paha), and might weigh as much as 175 pounds. An ‘ōnini was a board used only by the best surfers. Commoners used a 10- to 12-foot board called an alaia (also called an omo), made from the denser, heavier and thus less buoyant wood of koa, or the wood of the ‘ulu (breadfruit), which was also less buoyant. A small board was known as a kīoe.
[dcccxliv] Cook, Chris. Kaua‘i surfers conquer King’s Reef at Hanalei. The Garden Island, 11/29/1996.
[dcccxlv] Cook, Chris. No Hanalei link for folk song ‘Puff the Magic Dragon.’ The Garden Island, 7/25/2004.
[dcccxlvi] The five native waterbirds described are federally listed as endangered under the Endangered Species Act. (SeeFederal Register, 2002, Vol. 67, U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, Threatened and Endangered Species System (TESS), Listings by State and Territory as of 7/20/2002. Internet site: http://ecos.fws.gov/servlet/TESSWebpageUsaLists?state=HI, 7/28/2002.)
[dcccxlvii] Hawai‘i has at least 22 species of native seabirds, which combine to form a total population of more than 12 million seabirds in Hawai‘i. Most of Hawai‘i’s seabirds live on the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands, which are hundreds of miles northwest of the eight main Hawaiian Islands.
[dcccxlviii] The five native waterbirds described are federally listed as endangered under the Endangered Species Act. (SeeFederal Register, 2002, Vol. 67, U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, Threatened and Endangered Species System (TESS), Listings by State and Territory as of 7/20/2002. Internet site: http://ecos.fws.gov/servlet/TESSWebpageUsaLists?state=HI, 7/28/2002.)
[dcccxlix] p. 79, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 709.
[dcccli] p. 310, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 2830.
[dccclii] p. 194, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 1812.
[dcccliii] This saying is interpreted as “a play on nele (a lack, poverty), this saying implies a going without, a lack of success, chagrin, and so forth.” [P. 314, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings.Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 2878.]
[dcccliv] p. 197, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 1828.
[dccclv] Plover adults usually begin arriving in Hawai‘i in late August, and juveniles arrive in late September, staying until late April or May when they again head north.
[dccclvi] The plover’s migration flight makes them among the world’s fastest birds when it comes to sustained flight. This sustained flight category excludes speeds attained by diving birds such as raptors.
[dccclvii] Black coloration around the eyes is a common trait in seabirds, and helps to reduce glare.
[dccclviii] The albatross chick may take several days to break free from the shell.
[dccclix] Northern shovelers range throughout the northern Hemisphere, wintering as far south as the northern parts of South America as well as southern Eurasia and eastern Africa.
[dccclx] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1986.
[dccclxi] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1986.
[dccclxii] Bufflehead breed in North America, including Alaska and Canada, and then winter as far south as Mexico and the Gulf Coast.
[dccclxiii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1986.
[dccclxiv] Frigatebirds have been documented to have reached 34 years of age.
[dccclxv] p. 73, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 645.
[dccclxvi] Nesting material is gathered primarily by the female frigatebirds, but it’s primarily the male that builds the nest. The frigatebird chick has no feathers at first, and so the parents must protect the baby from the sun.
[dccclxvii] p. 64, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 545.
[dccclxviii] Shearwaters have what is called a tube nose at the base of their beak. The tube nose is connected to a gland that removes extra salt from the bird’s food and water.
[dccclxix] The fish and squid that shearwaters feed on are often pushed toward the ocean’s surface by schools of tuna. Fishermen have long known that seeing a gathering of shearwaters may be a sign of the valuable tuna species the fishermen seek.
[dccclxx] By November the wedge-tailed shearwaters migrate along the equatorial countercurrent to the coast of Central America, reaching such disparate locations as Panama and Japan, sometimes staying at sea for up to four years. Many of the birds migrate back to the Hawaiian Islands in March and then repeat their migration path each year.
[dccclxxi] Archaeological evidence shows that ancient Hawaiians utilized shearwaters and petrels as a food source. Abundant remains of shearwaters have been found in ancient Hawaiian settlements. Pigs and dogs brought by the early Polynesian settlers of Hawai‘i also had an effect on the populations of the ground nesting shearwaters. After Westerners arrived, cats and mongoose further decimated the shearwater population. By 1931 the birds were thought to be extinct in Hawai‘i, but they were “rediscovered” in 1954.
[dccclxxii] On Kaua‘i, residents have been saving these stranded birds for more than 20 years. Most shearwater strandings occur in October and November. The peak period of the month for strandings is during the new moon when the sky is dark. Also vulnerable to strandings due to nighttime light are other night-flying seabirds, including the ‘ua‘u (Hawaiian dark-rumped petrel), an endangered species.
[dccclxxiii] Shearwater aid stations are located at Kaua‘i County Fire Departments as well as other locations. Be careful when attempting to rescue stranded shearwaters, as the birds may occasionally bite. Stay clear of the bird’s head as you grasp its folded wings and tail. Then put the bird in a ventilated box for transport. The Department of Land and Natural Resources (DLNR) advises the public that stranded birds may have unseen injuries and should not be tossed up into the air in an attempt to allow them to fly. Local residents may assist in helping the native bird species survive by reducing unnecessary outdoor lights, especially floodlamps, which may cause the birds to land due to temporary blindness.
Rescued Newell’s shearwaters are checked for injuries, banded, and then released along the shoreline so they may fly out to sea. Up to 2,000 Newell’s shearwaters (an estimated 90% of all strandings), are returned to safety each year, with more than 25,000 birds rescued to date. Hundreds of fledgling wedge-tailed shearwaters are also rescued.
[dccclxxiv] p. 188, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 1749.
[dccclxxv] The distinctive long tail feathers of the tropicbirds, also called streamers, are actually highly specialized inner tail feathers.
[dccclxxvi] Especially valued for kāhili were the tail feathers of the red-tailed tropicbird.
[dccclxxvii] p. 28, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 237.
[dccclxxviii] DNA tests trace Polynesians to China origins. The Honolulu Advertiser, 8/11/1998.
Borg, Jim. Genetic research offers intriguing new view of Polynesian migrations. Hawaii Magazine, February, 1997.
Human DNA analysis points to African origin: Study performed on complete genome. The Honolulu Advertiser, 12/7/2000.
Krauss, Bob. Pacific migration theory disputed: Polynesians may be from Indonesia. The Honolulu Advertiser, 7/18/2000.
Matisoo-Smith, E., Roberts, R.M., Irwin, G.J., Allen, J.S., Penny, D. and Lambert, D.M. Patterns of prehistoric human mobility in Polynesia indicated by mtDNA from the Pacific rat. Anthropology, Vol. 95, pp. 15145-15150, December, 1998.
Matsunaga, Mark. Scientists still fish for migration answer: Canoes ready to test theory of the fishhooks. The HonoluluAdvertiser, 4/16/1995.
[dccclxxix] Holocene History of Sediment Deposition and Stratigraphy on the Hanalei Coastal Plain, Kauai, Hawaii(Abstract). Internet site: http://www.soest.hawaii.edu/GG/STUDENTS/calhoun/abstract.html, 3/26/2003.
[dccclxxx] The Lapita culture is known for its distinctive and colorful earthenware pottery, which can be traced through Melanesia to Samoa, Fiji, and Tonga, where many characteristics of typical Polynesian culture evolved during the first millennium. By the time Hawai‘i was settled, however, the use of pottery disappeared and was replaced instead by stone adzes and other crafts. Lapita pottery is first seen around the middle of the second millennium, appearing in Melanesia and then New Caledonia and Samoa. The people of the Lapita culture were the founding members of Tonga, Samoa, and Fiji. [Kirch, P. V. The Lapita Peoples: Ancestors of the Oceanic World. Oxford: Blackwell Publishers, 1997.]
[dccclxxxi] More than 4,000 words of this Proto Polynesian language have been reconstructed. Kirch, P. V. and R. C. Green. Hawaiki, Ancestral Polynesia: An Essay in Historical Anthropology. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2001.
[dccclxxxii] Molecular biologists have discovered phenotypic homogeneity and common genetic markers among Polynesians, suggesting a “genetic bottleneck” took place early in the history of the Polynesian race, likely around the time that Fiji, Tonga, and Samoa were settled.
[dccclxxxiii] TenBruggencate, Jan. Researchers: east Polynesia settled later: Some experts say Hawai‘i first settled in 800 to 1000 A.D. The Honolulu Advertiser, 3/10/2006.
[dccclxxxiv] Tahiti encompasses 402 square miles, and is the largest island of the Society Islands group of French Polynesia (which also includes the Marquesas). The island of Tahiti is almost directly below Hawai‘i and about half way between California and Australia.
[dccclxxxv] See Hanalei in Ancient Times, Chapter 1.
[dccclxxxvi] p. 8, Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu: Hawai‘i, 2002.
[dccclxxxvii] Charlton apparently did not pay Kamehameha III the agreed upon fee, but nevertheless retained the use of the land. [P. 270, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.]
[dccclxxxviii] p. 190, Alexander, Mary Charlotte. William Patterson Alexander: In Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii.Honolulu, Privately Printed, 1934.
[dccclxxxix] p. 5, We Feel Today. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dcccxc] Titcomb’s mulberry trees included the native or black mulberry varieties, as well as white, Canton, and morus multicaulis species imported from the United States.
[dcccxci] Waioli Church—National Register of Historic Places: Statement of Architectural and Historical Significance.United States Department of the Interior; National Park Service. Also: A Brief History of the Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church.Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church Bulletin, 2003.
Waioli Mission District—National Register of Historic Places: Inventory—Nomination Form. United States Department of the Interior; National Park Service.
[dcccxcii] p. 272, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[dcccxciii] p. 38. Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homestead and Waioli Mission House, 1987.
[dcccxciv] pp. 43-44. Riznik, Barnes. Waioli Mission House: Hanalei, Kauai. Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i: Grove Farm Homesteadand Waioli Mission House, 1987.
[dcccxcv] Titcomb’s coffee plants included Bourbon species. [From Bates 1854: 201-4,206).]
[dcccxcvi] p. 272, Wilcox, Elsie. Hanalei in History, Wilcox mss. Kauai Historical Society, 4/26/1917.
[dcccxcvii] p. 150, Joesting, Edward. Kauai: The Separate Kingdom. University of Hawaii Press, 1984.
[dcccxcviii] We Feel Today. p. 5. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[dcccxcix] Hawai‘i population estimates at the time of Western contact in 1778 vary from 200,000 to more than 400,000.
[cm] Report of Waioli Select School From July 16th, to May 12th, 1863. On file at Grove Farm, Kaua‘i.
[cmi] p. 2, The Emergence of Rice. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[cmii] p. 2, The Emergence of Rice. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[cmiii] p. 1, A Changing Landscape, a New Crop, a New Population. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[cmiv] p. 2, The Emergence of Rice. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[cmv] p. 10, Commerce in the Rice Growing Era. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[cmvi] p. 72, Wilcox, Carol. Sugar Water: Hawai‘i’s Plantation Ditches. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1996.
[cmvii] p. 8, The County Water and Electrical Systems. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[cmviii] p. 3, The Rice Farms and Mills in the Landscape. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997.
[cmix] P. 11, Cultural and Religious Community Life in the Rice Times. Hanalei Yesterday, Part II, 1000 Friends of Kauai, 1997. Frank Kurihara noted that “the Japanese School...was moved there from its previous location near the beach.” [P. 7, Kurihara, Frank H. Hanohano Hanalei. Skyline Designs: 1996. (Bishop Museum MS Doc. 303)]
[cmx] p. 24, Cook, Chris. Princeville’s History. Honolulu: Hawai‘i, 2002.
[cmxi] Hanalei river program awarded $700,000. The Garden Island, 5/07/2003.
[cmxii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmxiii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmxiv] p. 252, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 2313.
[cmxv] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmxvi] p. 238, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 2192.
[cmxvii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmxviii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmxix] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmxx] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmxxi] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmxxii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmxxiii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmxxiv] p. 252, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 2315.
[cmxxv] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmxxvi] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmxxvii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmxxviii] p. 234, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 2144.
[cmxxix] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1986.
[cmxxx] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmxxxi] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1986.
[cmxxxii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmxxxiii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmxxxiv] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmxxxv] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmxxxvi] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmxxxvii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmxxxviii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmxxxix] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmxl] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmxli] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmxlii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmxliii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmxliv] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmxlv] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1986.
[cmxlvi] p. 13, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 96.
[cmxlvii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmxlviii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmxlix] p. 203, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 1885.
[cml] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmli] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmlii] A heiau at Honalo was called Kualani (“chiefly back”). Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmliii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmliv] p. 151, Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmlv] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmlvi] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmlvii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmlviii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmlix] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmlx] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmlxi] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmlxii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmlxiii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmlxiv] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmlxv] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmlxvi] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmlxvii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmlxviii] p. 309, p. xxiv, Desha, Stephen L., translated by Frazier, Frances N. Kamehameha and his Warrior Kekūhaupi‘o. Honolulu: Kamehameha Schools Press, 2000).
[cmlxix] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmlxx] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmlxxi] pp. 157-158, Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names ofHawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmlxxi] pp. 157-158, Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names ofHawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmlxxii] pp. 157-158, Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names ofHawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmlxxii] pp. 157-158, Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names ofHawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmlxxiii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmlxxiv] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmlxxv] p. 122, Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmlxxvi] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1986.
[cmlxxvii] p. 294, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 2687.
[cmlxxviii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmlxxix] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmlxxx] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmlxxxi] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmlxxxii] p. 183, Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmlxxxiii] p. 183, Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmlxxxiv] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmlxxxv] p. 170, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 1580.
[cmlxxxvi] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmlxxxvii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmlxxxviii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmlxxxix] p. 102, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 952.
[cmxc] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmxci] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmxcii] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmxciii] p. 252, Pukui, Mary Kawena. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983. Proverb 2311.
[cmxciv] Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H., and Mookini, Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii: Revised & Expanded Edition. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1974.
[cmxcv] Note: This name and meaning remain controversial.
[cmxcvi] Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Elbert, Samuel H. Hawaiian Dictionary: Revised and Enlarged Edition.// Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 1986.